Just wanted to let you know how much it's appreciated it is that you take the time to be so detailed and willing to share your learned experience. The effort you put in is noticed and very much appreciated. Great job!
Thanks for the comment, appreciate you taking the time to say something positive instead of all the negative comments I get. Thanks for watching. Brian
Great video and thanks! One thing I suggest is a little more discussion on the transfer case interlock shift rail pin. If the front wheel drive shift rail isn't allowing the pin to fully retract, the underdrive shift rail won't be able to slide in. Somehow we managed to get the pin caught in the shifter slot on the underdrive rod and couldn't move it in or out. Ended up having to pull the fork on the front wheel drive shift rail, removing the rail, and allowing the front housing assembly to come back off. On the reassembly we put a hose clamp on the front wheel drive rod, outside the case, to help keep it in a position that allowed the interlock pin to fully retract. Then the assembly went right together.
I'm working through the channel and I'm so blown away by the content and the amount and quality you share. Keep up the great work. I know this is over a year old now, and I'm hoping you got this resolved in later videos, but I wanted to comment on this video since it's pretty apparent here, the Depth of Field (DOF) on your camera is set pretty shallow. That's why one part of the bench will be in focus and another isn't. I actually prefer manual focus videos to the auto-focus most common on TH-cam. You just need to get your DOF sorted out and these will be awesome. If you can't find that setting, let me know what make and model camera and I might be able to help. Or someone else on the great Internets might have the answer.
Just finished my cluster shaft bushing install. Using a NOS bushing, it was a PAIN to get it in, and to be honest it was way oversize than what I thought. Package lists the part as the exact same part, but the NOS bushing is made out of a blend of brass and steel, and was super tight. My old one was way too worn, and it was really wobbly. Reamed out and it fits like a dream now. Continuing my rebuild ;) Mayor Fuglycool
thanks for going the distance with us, I am a novice at this sort of rebuild I have always wanted a JEEP. but I had a Beast friend buy the one I wanted to buy out from under me. I still want a JEEP to this day! Thanks Again. Sonny.
keep looking and a jeep should pop up for you to buy someday. There are still plenty of them hiding out there in barns, fields, garages, etc.... Thanks for watching.
The grease made the difference. I can move it now. Sealed it up with the sealant on the little bolts. Moving on to the transmission tomorrow. Got the needle bearings in the cluster gear waiting. Thank you again!
glad it worked out good with the grease in there, the little things make all the difference. Good luck on the transmission, you are making good progress. Brian
great series, particuarly like the metalshaping aspects. but the whole thing is educational to watch even if i'm unlikely to ever own or rebuild a willys. the odd foray into steam/sawmill etc is also welcome, keep 'em coming!
Thanks for letting me know you are enjoying my video series. Lots of stuff going on around the farm and I try to bring a little bit of everything to my audience. Don't worry, more on the way.
Well Done !!! Thank you for your time and thought in making these videos. I may be a good man with a wrench in my hands but this is my first Willys rodeo !! Ride on
After watching this video about 1,000 times I have the transfer case together and it spins and shifts like butter. I have my dial indicator and caliper now so tonight I put on the rear cap. I have the old shims and a new pack so I don't expect an issue. Thanks very much for this video. You are my go to guy. Thanks Ron and Jan
Glad that you got your transfer case together and it is working smoothly. thanks for letting me know my videos have helped you, that is the reason why I am making them. More videos on the way so keep watching for more tips and ideas. Brian
I would have liked to see you at your press I'm sure your very careful in those procedures as well. We're never to old to learn what we might be doing right or wrong. Thank You again.
Hi Brian...Hello from India...I am currently restoring my 1960 Willys CJ3B LHD (Mahindra & Mahindra)...have been following your videos and found extremely educative specially your TIPS...Must thank you for detailed videos which gave me confidence to restore the jeep at home...so far its going great guns. Will contact you on your Email for my specific queries....Regards Anil
Sir, I don't know you or do I work on Jeep transfer cases but I am a mechanic of over 50 years. To install the O-rings you would slightly chamfer the outer ends of the shaft hole and install the O-rings by pushing the shaft slightly through the opposite end and installing it then push it slightly back to install the second one. I would probably try this on an old case first...LOL
Thanks for the comment. I am always trying to improve on things and glad you noticed. Thanks for being a continued supporter. Much more coming so keep watching.
Have you ever tried packing grease into the cavity beyond the bushing and inserting a soft shaft of copper brass or high nickel content stainless steel into the bushing then carefully drive the shaft into the bushing. The hydraulic pressure should push the bushing out. I've never tried it with an internal shaft bushing of a transfer case but I have never had this method fail in removing a pilot bearing out of the end of a crank shaft. I learned this method from an old timer many years ago. It has even worked using just the plastic pilot shaft included in a clutch set. You have a good lathe and as you said you can turn it paper thin. Maybe turn a shaft just snug enough to prevent lateral movement of a non damaging material. Hydraulic pressure is remarkably strong and it usually takes little pressure to cause bushings to pop right out.
your method works great on pilot bushings and I have used that technique for years. When bushings have a wall thickness that is thick it works with no problem. With very thin bushings it does not work.
Hi, I find your videos very thorough and informative and are always checked before any task. Regarding the transfer case rebuild, what torque settings do you apply when tightening the bolts for the caps to the case? Also, have you made a video on the T84 gearbox rebuild?
Hi Brian, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience through your tuition videos, they are very helpful. What torque setting do you recommend for the castle nut that secures the transfer case to the T84 gearbox?
Great video, Thks. I'm having a problem getting the intermediate shaft in, about halfway into the case, the gears bind up and lock up. The outer shaft gears were nice and loose, proper tolerance .006", I take them apart, all gears turn easily. Try again and the gears lock up again. Shaft measures 1.125" Suggestions?
never had a problem like that. Are you using the original gears that came out of the case? When you say it locks up, does that mean that they won't turn at all or turn with resistance. Seems like something is not fitting correctly. let me know as much as you can so we can get this figured out. Brian
Good day Brian, I pick up something new every time I watch your videos. You mentioned that in the newer models, they did away with the castle nut and split pin and moved to lock nuts for the shaft nuts. My transmission and transfer case shafts also do not have the split pin holes. But when I disassembled the cases, they still had the castle nuts but off course, without the split pins. On the newer models, do they use the lock nuts with the Teflon insert or the full metal lock nut tipes? Regards Pieter
Brian on my Dana 18 i had replace the front bushing the old one just fell out i pressed in a new one and reamed. How far does the bushing get pressed in. Mike
Great video, Sir. I have to ask WHAT do you clean your hands with. That case was filthy but you hands stayed clean for the most part. I gotta get whatever you're using!
Get yourself some 20 Team Borax powder and some dawn dishwashing liquid. Sprinkle a little borax into your hands and just a small squirt of dawn and watch the grease melt off your hands. Better and cheaper than any type on the shelf hand soap.
Great videos! Was wondering what the Miller tool number is for removing the seals on the transfer case? Is there just one tool to use for the whole case? Thank you!
great videos and tips. question: my intermediate shaft where the needle bearings ride has slight wear and also the thrust washers. is this detrimental and is there any 'fix' other than parts as im having a hard Time getting parts without paying out the ear in shipping where i am. thanks Brad
hello brad, wear in the intermediate shaft is bad. If you can see it wearing already it will continue to wear and you will get play in your gear. You can make new thrust washers or just get new parts. Where are you located? Best option would be new parts. What size shaft do you have 3/4", 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" . Let me know.
Hi, I'm putting in the intermediate gear & thrust washers on the new Novak shaft. It all goes in but seems pretty snug. Everything is pre-lubed with vasaline. The gear will turn with a little force but not spin. How snug is too snug before you need to sand off the back side of a thrust washer? Could it get hot being that snug? The vasaline may be adding a little thickness and I can't feel any endplay at all. Thanks, Jeff
as long as it moves freely when turning by hand it should be fine. Everything has some resistance when assembling with assembly lube. There should be no endplay and still turn easily. Brian
I finally got all the parts I need to do my transfer case. I'm up to the point of shimming the rear cap. I have every single shim that came with the Novak kit. As soon as I snug up the bolts everything binds up and I have zero play. The gasket is installed on the front cap and the front cap is torqued down. When I took the thing apart there were no shims in it at all. Have you ever needed more shims than came with a Novak kit?
Not sure what you got for shims. Can you measure the thickness of all shims and let me know the total shim pack? usually there are plenty of shims in the kit and I have never had to use an entire pack of shims on the rear cap. Are you sure you have the snap ring and front bearing seated properly? Seems like something isn't right, but lets start with the amount of shims you have in there. Seems weird to have no shims at the rear cap when you took it apart.
metalshaper the shims measure out at .065. Both bearings are seated fully and the snap ring is in the groove. I can't get my smallest (.002) feeler gauge btw the bearing and snap ring.
ok that side sounds good. if you are sure that the rear bearing is seated then you need more shims. Not sure what they sent for shims but .065" isn't too much. What you need are a few .035" shims to get some clearance and then fine tune with .003", .005" and .010 shims. I have had some cases take up to .095" in shims so you are not out of range with your shim pack. I have noticed that a lot of parts sellers are only selling packs of .010" shims. I always save shims from transfer cases and use the large ones when needed. Keep shimming carefully to get some end play. Take your time and be sure to get it right. the life of your transfer case depends on it. Let me know if you have any more questions.
question : with your help I got the transfer case of the 1950 CJ3A put back together today. Shifters worked fine until I put the poppet balls and springs in. I could move them by hand before, but now even with shift levers temporarily on, can't move the rods in and out. What happened? When I loosen bolt , it moves again.
If you are sure you have everything assembled correctly then it is probably just spring tension on the ball causing the stiffness. Did you put the interlock pin in or leave it out? Did you lubricate the ball with grease before installing it? it will take a bit of force to move the lever into the detent and if you are using new springs it will be stiff. Does it lock up tight or is it just hard to shift? It will be much different when it is off the bench and in the vehicle where things will be spinning, lube will be circulating, and you can get a firm grasp on the lever. If you continue to have problems contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net Brian
What brand of seals do you use? I've heard guys using Timkens and then shimming them because they're thinner, but I'd be curious to know what brand and part number you're using.
the .750" shafts were not holding up very well and it was immediately found out a larger shaft was necessary. The change was made to 1.125" and then finally to 1.250"
Excessive, the shaft or something else must be out of spec. You shouldn't see much more than .002" when you have an indicator on the shaft and you rotate it.
Brian, on my rebuild of model 18 transfer case. I had to replace the intermediate gear. When we finally got it in it is so tight that the gears will turn by hand. Should I remove it and do something to the shims?
Is the intermediate gear tight or the whole case improperly shimmed? The intermediate gear is not effected by shims so that will not change anything. If the gear is too tight you will need to address the problem or you will have trouble. Take the gear and case to a machine shop and have them surface grind the gear and keep trying it until it spins freely by hand but has no play . Take your time, if you make it too small it will be just as bad as too tight.
@@metalshaperJeepBrian, I didn't do a very good job of describing my problem. I had to put a new intermediate gear in. When we finally got it in it is so tight we cannot spin it by hand. Everything else spins freely. I will take it to a machine shop and have it surface ground. thx Don
On the t-90 rebuild you really don't need gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket between the transmission and transfer case or between the front bearing retainer cap? Also, have you or will you do a t84 transmission?
metalshaper I'm doing my jeep transfercase right now, so that's why I was asking about the amount of gasket sealer. I thought I should coat all surfaces of the gaskets kinda like you did for the ships. But your just using enough to hold the gasket in place. Looking forward to the T84 video! Thanks
Would it be possible to take a Transfer case for the 1 1/4” shaft and machine 11/4” x 1 1/8” bushings and press them in the 1 1/4” case and use the gears & shafts from the 1 1/8” case? I’m assuming that the only difference between the two cases themselves is the shafts and the 1 1/4” case shaft hole is located approximately center to the 1 1/8 shaft hole location.
@@levivaughan3434 my transfer case with the 1 1/8 shaft was cracked there’s no difference in the 1 1/8 and the 1 1/4 T-18 case other than the shafts sizes. My gears were good and I was looking for just a case, at the time all I could find was a 1 1/4”….. press in a couple bushing for the 1 1/8” shaft and your in business. But I ended up finding a M38 case with 1 1/8” shaft and rebuilt it. Spicer converted some 1 1/4” cases to use the 1 1/8” shafts I found some on eBay…. Item# 181663434674 … Look at the pics… you will see the pressed in bushings with lock screws… the seller Army Tank Guy told me spicer converted them for the military… so it is possible to convert one if you can’t find a 1 1/8” shaft case and use your gears
@@metalshaperJeep I really would love to support my local local small business, but when I call and they have no idea what I'm wanting even if I have a part#, or tell me they have it then don't when I get there it's frustrating. With my work schedule I don't have time to run all over hell's creation searching for what I want, especially when I can clickity-click and have it next week. It's too bad for sure, but that's the way it works on a lot of stuff.
Brian, have you done any videos of the Dana 20 ? Also, I have an SM420 transmission, and am thinking on having it repaired or exchanged by HERM. I seen you like his overdrive set up. Would you recommend his trans/ TC rebuilds? Thank You, Chris
I have a dana 20 torn apart on the bench right now but didn't get any filming done taking it apart. I also have a SM420 and SM465 in line waiting to be rebuilt. Herm has good stuff available if you want to just purchase a whole transmission. Brian
@@metalshaperJeep thanks Brian. Are you gonna do a video of the Sm420? Would you use your trans lube and transfer case lubes for these? Do they use the same thrust washers as a dana 18? Thank You, Chris
@@chrisgollihar8057 I am going to do a rebuild of the SM420 or SM465, just depends on which one I decide to use with my CJ3B welder jeep, which is going to have a V6, SM transmission, and dana 18 transfer case. My lube is great for these old transmissions and is the correct stuff to use. As far as the 18 thrust washers there are many different sizes depending on which intermediate gear shaft size you have . Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Thanks brian. The welder Jeep is a neat project. I seen the rebuild kit for the transfer case having caged needle bearings, this looks a lot easier. Not sure if I'm gonna rebuild myself, or have Herm do them both. You sent me a price list a while back for the lube. Trans and TC is the same stuff, right? Thank You, Chris
@@chrisgollihar8057 caged needle bearings are for the 3/4" and 1-1/8" shaft. the 1-1/4" shaft has loose needle bearings. Not hard to do with a little assembly grease on them. Transmission and transfer case take the same lubricant.
How about your special tranny / transfer case lube. QT? ..... Gal? ......Price shipped to 64485? I've been redoing my '49 CJ3A with your videos. Great stuff!
you can get the upper rope seal out with a Sneaky Pete tool. To reinstall a rope seal the engine should be out of the vehicle with the crankshaft removed.
hello one thing i am confused about the gear on the output shaft for the spedo spins free how will it drive the small gear for the spedo cable? we resealed the d-18 200 miles later the spedo only goes up to 20mph help ! thanks art
The gear on the output shaft is held firmly when the yoke for the rear driveshaft presses against it. If it is spinning freely something is worn out and must be replaced. Never had a problem with the gear so not sure what you have going on in there.
Then is it normal for my intermediate gear to fit so tight beteeen the two new thrust washer that the gears are difficult to turn by hand, i have a 1 ‘1/4 shaft
I have the correct lube for your t-90/model 18 transfer case. I have a few different viscosity's depending on when you will be operating your vehicle. Extreme cold, extreme heat, or general spring to fall use. Let me know what type of environment you will be driving in and I can match the perfect lube to your situation.
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Just wanted to let you know how much it's appreciated it is that you take the time to be so detailed and willing to share your learned experience. The effort you put in is noticed and very much appreciated. Great job!
Thanks for the comment, appreciate you taking the time to say something positive instead of all the negative comments I get. Thanks for watching.
Brian
Just watched your rant on Derrick. Good and honest. You are a great teacher and a help to many, many people including me. Please keep filming.
Like your video's. Wish I watched before I had apart. Replaced all seals and gaskets. Only 15.5k miles on a 1960 CJ-5. Ruff roads Ray
Sounds like a great CJ5
Great video and thanks! One thing I suggest is a little more discussion on the transfer case interlock shift rail pin. If the front wheel drive shift rail isn't allowing the pin to fully retract, the underdrive shift rail won't be able to slide in. Somehow we managed to get the pin caught in the shifter slot on the underdrive rod and couldn't move it in or out. Ended up having to pull the fork on the front wheel drive shift rail, removing the rail, and allowing the front housing assembly to come back off. On the reassembly we put a hose clamp on the front wheel drive rod, outside the case, to help keep it in a position that allowed the interlock pin to fully retract. Then the assembly went right together.
Excellent instructions. None better anywhere. Thanks for taking the time to make them. M. Ashley
Glad it was helpful!
Outstanding tutorial - thank you for the time and effort you put into these.
You are a perfectionist in every thing you do,I have learned a lot.,keep the videos coming.
Thanks again for these videos Brian, It has made my rebuild so much easier! Thanks alot!!
glad you are enjoying my videos and finding them useful
Great video!!!!! The way you explain how everything goes together is very helpful.
Great help. Thank you for taking the time and trouble to make these films.
Great work! I really enjoy the tempo of the videos, and detailed info you provide. two thumbs up!
Thanks for watching and the positive comment. Keep watching for more videos on a variety of subjects.
Awesome video, helping my son and I restore my dad's 51 cj3a willys!
Glad you are enjoying the videos, it was my goal to help folks restore their Willys projects correctly. Keep watching, many more videos coming.
I'm working through the channel and I'm so blown away by the content and the amount and quality you share. Keep up the great work.
I know this is over a year old now, and I'm hoping you got this resolved in later videos, but I wanted to comment on this video since it's pretty apparent here, the Depth of Field (DOF) on your camera is set pretty shallow. That's why one part of the bench will be in focus and another isn't. I actually prefer manual focus videos to the auto-focus most common on TH-cam. You just need to get your DOF sorted out and these will be awesome.
If you can't find that setting, let me know what make and model camera and I might be able to help. Or someone else on the great Internets might have the answer.
Just finished my cluster shaft bushing install. Using a NOS bushing, it was a PAIN to get it in, and to be honest it was way oversize than what I thought. Package lists the part as the exact same part, but the NOS bushing is made out of a blend of brass and steel, and was super tight. My old one was way too worn, and it was really wobbly. Reamed out and it fits like a dream now.
Continuing my rebuild ;)
Mayor Fuglycool
thanks for going the distance with us, I am a novice at this sort of rebuild I have always wanted a JEEP. but I had a Beast friend buy the one I wanted to buy out from under me. I still want a JEEP to this day! Thanks Again. Sonny.
keep looking and a jeep should pop up for you to buy someday. There are still plenty of them hiding out there in barns, fields, garages, etc.... Thanks for watching.
The grease made the difference. I can move it now. Sealed it up with the sealant on the little bolts. Moving on to the transmission tomorrow. Got the needle bearings in the cluster gear waiting. Thank you again!
glad it worked out good with the grease in there, the little things make all the difference. Good luck on the transmission, you are making good progress.
Brian
great series, particuarly like the metalshaping aspects. but the whole thing is educational to watch even if i'm unlikely to ever own or rebuild a willys. the odd foray into steam/sawmill etc is also welcome, keep 'em coming!
Thanks for letting me know you are enjoying my video series. Lots of stuff going on around the farm and I try to bring a little bit of everything to my audience. Don't worry, more on the way.
Well Done !!! Thank you for your time and thought in making these videos. I may be a good man with a wrench in my hands but this is my first Willys rodeo !! Ride on
I have plenty of videos posted to help you along with your first Willys project. " keep em rolling"
Brian
I know I am kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Casey Zayne flixportal :)
@Kylo Ramon thank you, signed up and it seems to work :) I appreciate it!
@Casey Zayne glad I could help :D
After watching this video about 1,000 times I have the transfer case together and it spins and shifts like butter. I have my dial indicator and caliper now so tonight I put on the rear cap. I have the old shims and a new pack so I don't expect an issue. Thanks very much for this video. You are my go to guy. Thanks Ron and Jan
Glad that you got your transfer case together and it is working smoothly. thanks for letting me know my videos have helped you, that is the reason why I am making them. More videos on the way so keep watching for more tips and ideas.
Brian
Excellent video. Sure i will be watching a few more times as i begin this project.
Awesome, thank you!
I would have liked to see you at your press I'm sure your very careful in those procedures as well. We're never to old to learn what we might be doing right or wrong. Thank You again.
Very thorough and informative. Would love to see you rebuild a new process 205 transfer case and a new process 435 transmission. Thank You.
I will be doing a SM465 in the future and will show the rebuild when I do it.
Hi Brian...Hello from India...I am currently restoring my 1960 Willys CJ3B LHD (Mahindra & Mahindra)...have been following your videos and found extremely educative specially your TIPS...Must thank you for detailed videos which gave me confidence to restore the jeep at home...so far its going great guns. Will contact you on your Email for my specific queries....Regards Anil
I really enjoy your videos, looking forward to more.
Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoy the videos. keep watching there are many more coming.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos, very informative.
Great to hear from people who enjoy my videos. Thanks for watching and commenting.
How do I contact you about your lubricants?
you can contact me anytime at metalshaper@comcast.net
I can help you out with any type of lubricant you will need for your project.
Brian
Vin, this one is for you, enjoy the rebuild of your transfer case. It came out perfect, T-90 is next.
T-90 video on the way. Shooting some footage now.
I know this is not so complicated now. You have explained it. Slow and exact is the key.
Great video thank you thank you thank you. I'm kinda new at this I rebuilt mine and screwed it up, I loved the attention to detail well done sir!
Thanks for watching, glad my video helped you rebuild it correctly. Brian
Sure enjoy the roster.
Great video very interesting very well done Thanks for all your hard work.
Sir, I don't know you or do I work on Jeep transfer cases but I am a mechanic of over 50 years. To install the O-rings you would slightly chamfer the outer ends of the shaft hole and install the O-rings by pushing the shaft slightly through the opposite end and installing it then push it slightly back to install the second one. I would probably try this on an old case first...LOL
Nice improvement on the video quality and the content awesome as always
Thanks for the comment. I am always trying to improve on things and glad you noticed. Thanks for being a continued supporter. Much more coming so keep watching.
great video clip .....many thanks .Its all making sense now.
Have you ever tried packing grease into the cavity beyond the bushing and inserting a soft shaft of copper brass or high nickel content stainless steel into the bushing then carefully drive the shaft into the bushing. The hydraulic pressure should push the bushing out. I've never tried it with an internal shaft bushing of a transfer case but I have never had this method fail in removing a pilot bearing out of the end of a crank shaft. I learned this method from an old timer many years ago. It has even worked using just the plastic pilot shaft included in a clutch set. You have a good lathe and as you said you can turn it paper thin. Maybe turn a shaft just snug enough to prevent lateral movement of a non damaging material. Hydraulic pressure is remarkably strong and it usually takes little pressure to cause bushings to pop right out.
your method works great on pilot bushings and I have used that technique for years. When bushings have a wall thickness that is thick it works with no problem. With very thin bushings it does not work.
I WILL be watching more from you. Thanks,
More videos on the way!!
You rock!!! Keep on doing these videos!
New videos coming out all the time, keep watching.
Absolutely HATE the ad and the dude before the main video. other than that GREAT vid!
Hi Brian can you help please, just replacing the bushing in the out put shaft how fare do I push it in ? . Great videos please keep them coming
Use a press
Hi, I find your videos very thorough and informative and are always checked before any task. Regarding the transfer case rebuild, what torque settings do you apply when tightening the bolts for the caps to the case?
Also, have you made a video on the T84 gearbox rebuild?
Hi Brian, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience through your tuition videos, they are very helpful. What torque setting do you recommend for the castle nut that secures the transfer case to the T84 gearbox?
120 ft. lbs. then if necessary tighten to cotter pin lines up with nut slot.
Great video, Thks. I'm having a problem getting the intermediate shaft in, about halfway into the case, the gears bind up and lock up. The outer shaft gears were nice and loose, proper tolerance .006", I take them apart, all gears turn easily. Try again and the gears lock up again. Shaft measures 1.125" Suggestions?
never had a problem like that. Are you using the original gears that came out of the case? When you say it locks up, does that mean that they won't turn at all or turn with resistance. Seems like something is not fitting correctly. let me know as much as you can so we can get this figured out.
Brian
Good day Brian, I pick up something new every time I watch your videos. You mentioned that in the newer models, they did away with the castle nut and split pin and moved to lock nuts for the shaft nuts. My transmission and transfer case shafts also do not have the split pin holes. But when I disassembled the cases, they still had the castle nuts but off course, without the split pins. On the newer models, do they use the lock nuts with the Teflon insert or the full metal lock nut tipes?
Regards
Pieter
Full metal lock nuts were used
@@metalshaperJeep thanks Brian
muito bom seus videos
Brian on my Dana 18 i had replace the front bushing the old one just fell out i pressed in a new one and reamed. How far does the bushing get pressed in. Mike
Where is the next video for this. Enjoy your videos very informative
videos go in order. Just search my videos to find the transfer case series and they go in order.
Great video, Sir. I have to ask WHAT do you clean your hands with. That case was filthy but you hands stayed clean for the most part. I gotta get whatever you're using!
Get yourself some 20 Team Borax powder and some dawn dishwashing liquid. Sprinkle a little borax into your hands and just a small squirt of dawn and watch the grease melt off your hands. Better and cheaper than any type on the shelf hand soap.
素晴らしい復元に秀樹感激Goodです=3
Great videos! Was wondering what the Miller tool number is for removing the seals on the transfer case? Is there just one tool to use for the whole case? Thank you!
Very helpful! Thanks
Glad the video helped you out. Keep watching for others.
great videos and tips. question: my intermediate shaft where the needle bearings ride has slight wear and also the thrust washers. is this detrimental and is there any 'fix' other than parts as im having a hard Time getting parts without paying out the ear in shipping where i am.
thanks Brad
hello brad, wear in the intermediate shaft is bad. If you can see it wearing already it will continue to wear and you will get play in your gear. You can make new thrust washers or just get new parts. Where are you located? Best option would be new parts. What size shaft do you have 3/4", 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" . Let me know.
metalshaper its an 1 1/4 shaft. i live in bc canada. ill have to bite the bullet and get one shipped.
Is it best to sandblast before disassembly or after. After, you would have to mask seal and bearing openings etc. Correct?
so good man
Thanks for doing these videos they are very helpful! What are the torque specifications for the bearing cap pieces on the Spicer 18 transfer case?
Glad you are finding the videos helpful. I usually torque the cap bolts to 28 to 35 ft. lbs.
Hi, I'm putting in the intermediate gear & thrust washers on the new Novak shaft. It all goes in but seems pretty snug. Everything is pre-lubed with vasaline. The gear will turn with a little force but not spin. How snug is too snug before you need to sand off the back side of a thrust washer? Could it get hot being that snug? The vasaline may be adding a little thickness and I can't feel any endplay at all. Thanks, Jeff
as long as it moves freely when turning by hand it should be fine. Everything has some resistance when assembling with assembly lube. There should be no endplay and still turn easily.
Brian
I finally got all the parts I need to do my transfer case. I'm up to the point of shimming the rear cap. I have every single shim that came with the Novak kit. As soon as I snug up the bolts everything binds up and I have zero play. The gasket is installed on the front cap and the front cap is torqued down. When I took the thing apart there were no shims in it at all.
Have you ever needed more shims than came with a Novak kit?
Not sure what you got for shims. Can you measure the thickness of all shims and let me know the total shim pack? usually there are plenty of shims in the kit and I have never had to use an entire pack of shims on the rear cap. Are you sure you have the snap ring and front bearing seated properly? Seems like something isn't right, but lets start with the amount of shims you have in there. Seems weird to have no shims at the rear cap when you took it apart.
metalshaper the shims measure out at .065. Both bearings are seated fully and the snap ring is in the groove. I can't get my smallest (.002) feeler gauge btw the bearing and snap ring.
ok that side sounds good. if you are sure that the rear bearing is seated then you need more shims. Not sure what they sent for shims but .065" isn't too much. What you need are a few .035" shims to get some clearance and then fine tune with .003", .005" and .010 shims. I have had some cases take up to .095" in shims so you are not out of range with your shim pack. I have noticed that a lot of parts sellers are only selling packs of .010" shims. I always save shims from transfer cases and use the large ones when needed. Keep shimming carefully to get some end play. Take your time and be sure to get it right. the life of your transfer case depends on it. Let me know if you have any more questions.
metalshaper alrighty, I guess I'll order some more shims. Thanks!
question : with your help I got the transfer case of the 1950 CJ3A put back together today. Shifters worked fine until I put the poppet balls and springs in. I could move them by hand before, but now even with shift levers temporarily on, can't move the rods in and out. What happened? When I loosen bolt , it moves again.
If you are sure you have everything assembled correctly then it is probably just spring tension on the ball causing the stiffness. Did you put the interlock pin in or leave it out? Did you lubricate the ball with grease before installing it? it will take a bit of force to move the lever into the detent and if you are using new springs it will be stiff. Does it lock up tight or is it just hard to shift? It will be much different when it is off the bench and in the vehicle where things will be spinning, lube will be circulating, and you can get a firm grasp on the lever. If you continue to have problems contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
Brian
What brand of seals do you use? I've heard guys using Timkens and then shimming them because they're thinner, but I'd be curious to know what brand and part number you're using.
I always use timken bearings. Doesn't matter what bearing you use the bearing play will always need to be shimmed.
Were the 3/4" diameter intermediate shafts failing before they changed to making them 1-1/8"?
the .750" shafts were not holding up very well and it was immediately found out a larger shaft was necessary. The change was made to 1.125" and then finally to 1.250"
Hi Brian, During assembly I have found there is wobble on the output gear of about 0.050" on the mainshaft. Is this normal or excessive?
Excessive, the shaft or something else must be out of spec. You shouldn't see much more than .002" when you have an indicator on the shaft and you rotate it.
After watching this i feel confident that i will not be doing this, and my local shop will have another customer haha
Brian, on my rebuild of model 18 transfer case. I had to replace the intermediate gear. When we finally got it in it is so tight that the gears will turn by hand. Should I remove it and do something to the shims?
Is the intermediate gear tight or the whole case improperly shimmed? The intermediate gear is not effected by shims so that will not change anything. If the gear is too tight you will need to address the problem or you will have trouble. Take the gear and case to a machine shop and have them surface grind the gear and keep trying it until it spins freely by hand but has no play . Take your time, if you make it too small it will be just as bad as too tight.
@@metalshaperJeepBrian, I didn't do a very good job of describing my problem. I had to put a new intermediate gear in. When we finally got it in it is so tight we cannot spin it by hand. Everything else spins freely. I will take it to a machine shop and have it surface ground. thx Don
On the t-90 rebuild you really don't need gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket between the transmission and transfer case or between the front bearing retainer cap? Also, have you or will you do a t84 transmission?
Will be doing a t-84 video as soon as I get one in the shop. a bit of sealer holds gaskets in place.
metalshaper I'm doing my jeep transfercase right now, so that's why I was asking about the amount of gasket sealer. I thought I should coat all surfaces of the gaskets kinda like you did for the ships. But your just using enough to hold the gasket in place. Looking forward to the T84 video! Thanks
Would it be possible to take a Transfer case for the 1 1/4” shaft and machine 11/4” x 1 1/8” bushings and press them in the 1 1/4” case and use the gears & shafts from the 1 1/8” case? I’m assuming that the only difference between the two cases themselves is the shafts and the 1 1/4” case shaft hole is located approximately center to the 1 1/8 shaft hole location.
Why would you want to do that? I believe the gears are different.
@@levivaughan3434 my transfer case with the 1 1/8 shaft was cracked there’s no difference in the 1 1/8 and the 1 1/4 T-18 case other than the shafts sizes. My gears were good and I was looking for just a case, at the time all I could find was a 1 1/4”….. press in a couple bushing for the 1 1/8” shaft and your in business. But I ended up finding a M38 case with 1 1/8” shaft and rebuilt it. Spicer converted some 1 1/4” cases to use the 1 1/8” shafts I found some on eBay…. Item# 181663434674 … Look at the pics… you will see the pressed in bushings with lock screws… the seller Army Tank Guy told me spicer converted them for the military… so it is possible to convert one if you can’t find a 1 1/8” shaft case and use your gears
ATP assembly lube is available on Amazon
you can get a lot of stuff from amazon, but I prefer to support smaller businesses rather than a giant corporation.
@@metalshaperJeep I really would love to support my local local small business, but when I call and they have no idea what I'm wanting even if I have a part#, or tell me they have it then don't when I get there it's frustrating. With my work schedule I don't have time to run all over hell's creation searching for what I want, especially when I can clickity-click and have it next week. It's too bad for sure, but that's the way it works on a lot of stuff.
What did you torque the front yoke to please
Brian, have you done any videos of the Dana 20 ? Also, I have an SM420 transmission, and am thinking on having it repaired or exchanged by HERM. I seen you like his overdrive set up. Would you recommend his trans/ TC rebuilds?
Thank You,
Chris
I have a dana 20 torn apart on the bench right now but didn't get any filming done taking it apart. I also have a SM420 and SM465 in line waiting to be rebuilt. Herm has good stuff available if you want to just purchase a whole transmission.
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep thanks Brian. Are you gonna do a video of the Sm420? Would you use your trans lube and transfer case lubes for these? Do they use the same thrust washers as a dana 18? Thank You, Chris
@@chrisgollihar8057 I am going to do a rebuild of the SM420 or SM465, just depends on which one I decide to use with my CJ3B welder jeep, which is going to have a V6, SM transmission, and dana 18 transfer case. My lube is great for these old transmissions and is the correct stuff to use. As far as the 18 thrust washers there are many different sizes depending on which intermediate gear shaft size you have .
Brian
@@metalshaperJeep Thanks brian. The welder Jeep is a neat project. I seen the rebuild kit for the transfer case having caged needle bearings, this looks a lot easier. Not sure if I'm gonna rebuild myself, or have Herm do them both. You sent me a price list a while back for the lube. Trans and TC is the same stuff, right? Thank You, Chris
@@chrisgollihar8057 caged needle bearings are for the 3/4" and 1-1/8" shaft. the 1-1/4" shaft has loose needle bearings. Not hard to do with a little assembly grease on them. Transmission and transfer case take the same lubricant.
How about your special tranny / transfer case lube. QT? ..... Gal? ......Price shipped to 64485? I've been redoing my '49 CJ3A with your videos. Great stuff!
contact me directly at metalshaper@comcast.net
I can send you a list of lubricants with prices. Thank you,
Brian
Great Video! Where can I find a quality small parts kit? I've been searching around, and so far, just finding Chinese junk.
Try Herm the Overdrive guy
Do you use RTV on the yoke splines?
50 willys wagon l6-161 how hard is it to replace rear main rope seal while still in truck
you can get the upper rope seal out with a Sneaky Pete tool. To reinstall a rope seal the engine should be out of the vehicle with the crankshaft removed.
hello one thing i am confused about the gear on the output shaft for the spedo spins free how will it drive the small gear for the spedo cable? we resealed the d-18 200 miles later the spedo only goes up to 20mph help ! thanks art
The gear on the output shaft is held firmly when the yoke for the rear driveshaft presses against it. If it is spinning freely something is worn out and must be replaced. Never had a problem with the gear so not sure what you have going on in there.
@@metalshaperJeep thank you we will pull it out and look at it////thank you see what wee wrong
Do you put a gasket betwen de rear cap and the baking plate of the hand brake ?
Then is it normal for my intermediate gear to fit so tight beteeen the two new thrust washer that the gears are difficult to turn by hand, i have a 1 ‘1/4 shaft
What is the best oil to use after my T 90 and transfer case repair ?
I have the correct lube for your t-90/model 18 transfer case. I have a few different viscosity's depending on when you will be operating your vehicle. Extreme cold, extreme heat, or general spring to fall use. Let me know what type of environment you will be driving in and I can match the perfect lube to your situation.
This is in Puerto Rico where the weather is in between high 70s to 90s all year round.
Ok. the summer blend of lube will work perfect for you. When you are ready for it just contact me and I can ship it to you.
Brian, how can I order some transmission and transfer case oil for my 64 f135
contact me at metalshaper@comcast.net an I can send you a lube list and ordering information.
What oil does this transfercase use?
hi,sorry you can vive me the measurements of the bearings and the transfer runs! thank you
goed werk , maar helaas te saaie video,
Thanks for the comment, hope you are enjoying my other videos as well.
Brian