Just bought an MK1 2002 Roadster 180... you are my GO TO BRO! Thanks so much for your time and detail you put into your vids... she needs lots of work but I've never been afraid of turning a wrench 😁🤙🏽 Cheers!
Use some strong cord to tie off on the end inside the car and use it as a pull through, make it long enough to go right from the inside to the rear calliper and it'll be much easier having a pull through.
Excellent video dude, only suggestion would be to tie a guide line to the old cable as you pull it from the caliper, you can leave it hanging and then tie the new cable to it pull it through. Thanks for making this video saved me a trip to the mechanic!
@@TheParrottBros: I have the same issue like you describe in your video. Today I replaced the handbrake cable with a new one to fix this, but the problem is still the same. The arm of the handbrake mechanism on the caliper does not go back to its initial position after using the handbrake. When I release the cable from the notch of the handbrake arm on the caliper, the arm goes back to its initial position very easily. However, the brake calipers, brake discs and brake pads are brand new so it can hardly be a problem there. Do you have any idea what the problem could be?
Sascha Adam that’s odd. Have you tried backing off the cable incase it’s too tight. If the new cable is freely moving that shouldn’t cause an issue. Very odd
@@TheParrottBros yes I tried to pull the cable back but the problem occurs again once I pull the handbrake. Unfortunately I didn't compare the new cable with the old one like you recommended in the video. Can it cause a problem if the new cable is a little bit longer than the old one?
Sascha Adam longer should give you the opposite to what you have now, just check everything is fitted correctly. Compare it to the other side if you can, something isn’t right. Unless you have a dodgy Caliper or something.
@@TheParrottBros the cables did not fit in the frame. And the steeltubes were stuck and rusted. Have to get New ones from abroad (uk). I live in Norway.
Hi there, first of you videos I have seen, (now subscribed of course), really thought the whole thing was exactly what is needed in such a video, no bells and whistles, just good advice and commentary. I have a question though if I may. I have a friend that has recently had the same job plus replace rear N/S calliper, change fluid (absolutely no air in system) and fitted new front pads. So here's the rub, the pedal travel is quite a bit more than previous although the pedal is solid and the car stops well. I think possibly the calliper hasn't adjusted up enough (creating pedal travel?). Does the hydraulic action set the pad to disc clearance or the action of the handbrake being operated? The restoration work looks great BTW I guess the rest of the car is in for the same treatment? Looking forward to more videos
Thank you for that appreciate the comment. This is quite a common one, I would get the pads bedded in first, as that can quite often make the pedal feel different. If not... usually depending on what Caliper it was you may need to use vcds to operate the ABS pump as they can get trapped up there. Was it pressure bled or gravity? It’s not an issue ive actually ever come across myself when working on my car. Plenty more content coming
@@TheParrottBros Thanks very much guys for your response. Re the ABS pump, I didn't do the job a reputable local specialist did but I think the guy will have opened the ABS valve, but it's worth checking. The bedding in may be the answer I guess, so we will see. Keep the videos coming, really enjoyed this one. Cheers
16:20 - Hello, i have observed the same thing in my car, i installed new handbrake cables and they are not equal at the adjust mechanism. It seems like left cable is tightened more than the right one, like in your scenario. Is that normal?
Alexander Goecke III the Caliper it’s self could of failed. If you get someone to sit in the car and operate the handbrake, can you see the cable itself moving at the caliper? Calipers handbrake mech can fail, Handbrake may need adjusting Cable could be seized in the sleeve. Thanks for watching
The work you do is getting more in depth and sophisticated, we need more videos like this
Just bought an MK1 2002 Roadster 180... you are my GO TO BRO! Thanks so much for your time and detail you put into your vids... she needs lots of work but I've never been afraid of turning a wrench 😁🤙🏽 Cheers!
Thanks for the kind words, glad the videos are getting put to good use. Apologies if it makes you spend money 😂😂
This was a great guide to follow. Definitely more easy than I expected
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻
Ooooooooh shiny droplinks and fresh new bushings I’m seeing!... ✌🏾😁✌🏾💯
Haha you see correct ;) more to
Come soon 🤙🏻
Excellent vid, tightening the handbrake just became a simple job 👍
David McCann thanks buddy
Use some strong cord to tie off on the end inside the car and use it as a pull through, make it long enough to go right from the inside to the rear calliper and it'll be much easier having a pull through.
Excellent video dude, only suggestion would be to tie a guide line to the old cable as you pull it from the caliper, you can leave it hanging and then tie the new cable to it pull it through. Thanks for making this video saved me a trip to the mechanic!
Glad it was helpful and appreciate the tips 👌🏻
Great video, thanks!
Excellent informative video, would it be easier to take the wheels off first ?
It’s entirely up to you buddy, if your doing it on the floor it’s whatever makes it easier for you :-). Thanks for the kind words
Thanks for the cool video, this is very helpful!
Thank you for commenting its appreciated
@@TheParrottBros: I have the same issue like you describe in your video. Today I replaced the handbrake cable with a new one to fix this, but the problem is still the same. The arm of the handbrake mechanism on the caliper does not go back to its initial position after using the handbrake. When I release the cable from the notch of the handbrake arm on the caliper, the arm goes back to its initial position very easily. However, the brake calipers, brake discs and brake pads are brand new so it can hardly be a problem there. Do you have any idea what the problem could be?
Sascha Adam that’s odd. Have you tried backing off the cable incase it’s too tight.
If the new cable is freely moving that shouldn’t cause an issue. Very odd
@@TheParrottBros yes I tried to pull the cable back but the problem occurs again once I pull the handbrake. Unfortunately I didn't compare the new cable with the old one like you recommended in the video. Can it cause a problem if the new cable is a little bit longer than the old one?
Sascha Adam longer should give you the opposite to what you have now, just check everything is fitted correctly. Compare it to the other side if you can, something isn’t right. Unless you have a dodgy Caliper or something.
Thank`s ! I am doing it today ...
Hope you got on ok
@@TheParrottBros the cables did not fit in the frame. And the steeltubes were stuck and rusted. Have to get New ones from abroad (uk). I live in Norway.
Nice one. Thank you.
Thanks for watching
very usefull vid cheers
Thanks buddy
I'm absolutely stumped on trying to source new guide tubes for the cables as mine have snapped.
They may no produce them anymore, worth messaging a breaking company and seeing if they have any good ones
Hi there, first of you videos I have seen, (now subscribed of course), really thought the whole thing was exactly what is needed in such a video, no bells and whistles, just good advice and commentary. I have a question though if I may. I have a friend that has recently had the same job plus replace rear N/S calliper, change fluid (absolutely no air in system) and fitted new front pads. So here's the rub, the pedal travel is quite a bit more than previous although the pedal is solid and the car stops well. I think possibly the calliper hasn't adjusted up enough (creating pedal travel?). Does the hydraulic action set the pad to disc clearance or the action of the handbrake being operated?
The restoration work looks great BTW I guess the rest of the car is in for the same treatment?
Looking forward to more videos
Thank you for that appreciate the comment.
This is quite a common one, I would get the pads bedded in first, as that can quite often make the pedal feel different.
If not...
usually depending on what Caliper it was you may need to use vcds to operate the ABS pump as they can get trapped up there. Was it pressure bled or gravity?
It’s not an issue ive actually ever come across myself when working on my car.
Plenty more content coming
@@TheParrottBros Thanks very much guys for your response. Re the ABS pump, I didn't do the job a reputable local specialist did but I think the guy will have opened the ABS valve, but it's worth checking. The bedding in may be the answer I guess, so we will see.
Keep the videos coming, really enjoyed this one.
Cheers
Stephen Rose Bedding is likely to be the most probable, some pads feel really different compare to others. Thank you plenty more where that came from
16:20 - Hello, i have observed the same thing in my car, i installed new handbrake cables and they are not equal at the adjust mechanism. It seems like left cable is tightened more than the right one, like in your scenario. Is that normal?
Yeah mines been fine ever since fitting so I wouldn’t worry too much bud 🙂
Any clue why my handbrake won’t work? The cable is not snapped and the parts still move on the caliper. New to the TT community
Alexander Goecke III the Caliper it’s self could of failed. If you get someone to sit in the car and operate the handbrake, can you see the cable itself moving at the caliper?
Calipers handbrake mech can fail,
Handbrake may need adjusting
Cable could be seized in the sleeve.
Thanks for watching
You have done lots of work on the underside yet you never recond your tank straps 😢