The next video in this series is now online! Check out how I add a more custom look to this box with advanced router and material techniques here: th-cam.com/video/pl1Xvd_Pt-c/w-d-xo.html
I'm an engineer and I am always fascinated with the work you do. There's so much I can learn from you. Thanks for doing these videos. I love how honest and genuine you are, but at the same time do an amazing job.
Time consuming is an understatement!! Using all your videos, I'm finally almost done building a box for a 2016 F-150 SuperCab. The idea was to create a false floor hiding two JL 10w7's in a ported box. I avoided having it professionally done because it seemed too complex, annoying, & time consuming for a shop to mess with. But OH. MY. GOD. What a pain! The satisfaction wore off fast and building this was miserable!! Not to mention the neighborhood is covered in MDF dust, even with some vacuum dust extraction. Getting 3 cu ft of volume plus a 40 sq inch port size meant using 50 sections. But it's tuned perfectly! (I had goofy shaped port that I added 3/4" sections to until proper tuning). My biggest takeaway: I will never attempt this type of build again!! Simply too time consuming. As in many weekends. And a mistake can potentially cost you 10 hours versus 1 or 2 hours, for example. Lots of mistakes and lessons learned, but these videos were invaluable. Thanks! But never doing this style of box again! Two big lessons learned: 3. A master template made out of MDF can gradually deteriorate (using Whiteside high quality spiral bit). This warps segments over time (e.g. my walls became thinner and straight walls became janky). 2. Make sure you can get your hand in there to sand the port smooth (or anywhere else there will be air movement). My port ran perpendicular to the cuts, so sanding was imperative and annoying and difficult. Wait until the build is almost complete to sand. Don't sand after each piece is glued. 3. Just go talk to a good shop first, if you have money. Maybe they would be willing to tackle this. You don't know if you don't ask. In hindsight I would've been willing to spend $1,500 on my box, assuming a shop would've done it right.
I'm building a portable-ish bluetooth box with a 750w computer PSU driving an amp and 10" sub. I'm struggling to balance portability with power, and this method looks like a unique solution! I had been thinking of square and clunky tubes and chambers. It was all so complicated. This is simpler!
It amazes me the concepts of boxes people come up with Car Audio is a working ART. Not everyone can just do it you have to be very creative and open minded brother that is a gift you have.
I've been a diy stereo guy off and on for almost 30 years, I've been very successfull, for the most part because I would redo stuff that didn't work out This guy is a god, my hat off too him
So, stacking is (kinda) the manual way of 3d printing? This would be a great way to do t-line boxes, or complicated and longer ports like the small 3d printed box you made. Wouldn't this also be useful for making rounded sidewalls for more elegant boxes? There are tons of applications for this technique.
No lie dude, that was the most bad ass box I have ever seen for the Jeep Wrangler. I have a 12W7 in my wrangler and would love to have a box like that built for me. Message me if your interested in building one for me. I would be happy to pay you well for your work.
I use stacks of 2" PS (pink foam insulation) for making fiberglass molds. I make 3D models in solidworks, then I create a number of parallel planes, 2" apart, to creating slicing features. Then, CAM and CNC out of 4x8 sheets from home depot.
I plan on using a layered design to build a isobaric 4th order center console enclosure in a Ford Super Duty pickup. It will allow me to maximize volume and add strength, as well as contour the box to better blend into the stock cabin. It will be 2 SSA Icon 10's with a single slot port that exits the console along the floorboard at the rear of the console. Should play relatively flat between 37 and 75 with decent output on a Sundown SCV-3000D
I am going to be making stacked speaker pods for the door speakers in my spl competition car, they will be made of furniture grade plywood and painted with varnish because I love the wood look
not as practical or acoustically good as mdf,and stained plywood does look like an old cottage that couldn't afford to use real wood.you are better to either use real wood or cover your boxes and enclosures in leatherette
Very impressive workmanship. Great to see a skilled operator and a video production worthy of those skills. Thank you for sharing. BK Australia, Luthier and certified tradesman.
I came up with a box design alot like this about 10-14 years ago.. Doing the same thing with the Port, but with a baffle, downward firing forced directional back pressure port... It took alot of wood wasted wood that it. But in the end it worked well and is all I use now when building a box... It allows you to make the sub have more bass, range and sharp punch then it would in a spec'd ported, sealed, or band pass box... All without over excursion the sub in either direction. Anyone who heard the systems would swear it was like multiple 12"s or 15"s but nope it was a couple 8"s.. 12s and 15s were even crazier, but some on the precise punch was lost on the 15s..Me and my father used to build show competition systems (spl) , and show car custom systems. (and yes there is a difference... Lol)
Another great video Mark. I'm watching this series as I'll purchase one of these Jeeps for my wife to celebrate after this stage of treatment she's going through. In answer to the episode question; maybe a clear acrylic baffle piece to show that geometry and layers, of course some resin interior for moisture resistance this could be painted/body matched, all this could be covered by another removable layer/beauty panel/speaker grill to protect and for stealth aid. Of course I like variety of materials/textures as you've done on amp rack. This all adds up creating another dimension to all that hard work. Oh, I know you are not going to start all over but HDPE as main material would be fantastic in terms of its ability to take the abuse in an open top vehicle.
I have been watch your videos, they have been really helpful. Thank you! So they have been giving me the ideas for a stacked enclosure for my 21 Rav 4. I suck at some of the math, but I am pushing through it. 2-8”s one at each back finder wheel. And of course there both different in shapes
I personally would really like to see an older Tacoma DC build to see how you use the space avail…I have an 03 and really like keeping everything stock visually.
I wanted to make a layered sealed enclosure for an 8" woofer to be installed in the front doors of my previous car, capped off with an MDF circle to finish it off. Instead I stuffed poly fill in the door behind the woofer and got surprisingly good output with just a factory amplifier.
Great videos. Building a box for my VW bus under rear seat. My advantage is I have a CNC and could cut something like this in about 10 min. Might take about an hour to draw it and add tool paths . The template takes the longest to get the exact profile
In planning on doing door pods with the layered technique because I need to seal the back to get proper back pressure on the prv midbass 10s I'm going with. Its also going to be easier than fiberglassing.
I love This Box Good Idea For Even The Corners In The Trunk Of A Cars. Also That Its( Ported)Hard To Find Sub Boxes Like This & Wouldnt Be Any Clotter In The Center Of The Trunks
A good alternative to template tape is masking tape on both surfaces with a thin line of CA glue. The hold is incredible if you burnish both tape surfaces with a credit card
I installed a custom made subwoofer with box that fit under my back seat on a 06 Nissan Frontier CC. Its an MTX subwoofer with a MTX amp. It really bumps and pumps, can't turn it all the way too loud, b/c its too loud. Thanks for the video.
i like this idea iv got a ute with small spaces behind the seats and been thinking for awhile on how to put a sub behind them and this video has helped thanks alot ( subscribe )
@CarAudioFabrication Mark, thinking back to your first video, the curfed port, this stacking technique would make a killer curf that could be simply glued to the edge between 2 mdf panels. This would use much less mdf than doing the entire perimeter with the middle area as waste. To add strength to the joint between the curved stack and the flat panel just cut a rabbit on the outside of the curved piece and the inside of the panel.
I would like to see how a box like this would fit in a 2017 Ram. Specifically in the bottom of the back seat with out having to get rid of the boards that extend out, which seems like you have to take out in order to have a box fit in there.
Hi, I would like to know why you chose a vented box instead of a sealed box, Rockford advices the woofer best performs under sealed conditions, advice needed.
This would be a great way to put a couple subs in the trunk of a mid-'90s Caprice / Impala and keep the spare tire in its factory location. One would think the trunk of that car would be huge, but if you want to keep the spare and some semblance of usable space, adding subs is a bit of work.
Ive been thinking about using this technique to make my own center console that'll go inbetween the captain's chair's in my old ford pickup. A center console that has an 8" sub in the bottom of it. It's about the best spot in the truck to put a sub without compromising the use of the back seats.
Just awesome! I'm not strong is volume calcs (99% of sub building is volume calcs lol), but this is amazing, can wait for my build. Are you using HDF or MDF for your box builds?
Nice job, Mark! Like others have said, that is a lot of work. You tackled it well, though. When I made the sub box for the storage well of my wagon, I used a combination of MDF and fiberglass. I honestly thought that was what you were going to do here. Though I've never done it myself yet, I have often thought that "stack fab" would be great for an elaborate amp rack with multiple levels. Anyway, can't wait to see how you finish off this sub box. I'm assuming that you will use a combo similar to that of the amp rack, and if so, that should look great! Keep it up!
I'm starting a project whit a Cadillac DeVille ,my idea is to use the back seat to install 2 subs but I'm not sure on using fiberglass or MDF all around.install under the back seat
I've been really wanting to make a custom box for my s2000, the spot the soft top sits in since i have a hardtop and the soft top has been removed. I wanted to stick two 10" subs back there as well as two more 6 1/2" speakers. I don't think this is something commonly done. I've started watching your videos to give me an idea on where to start. There is just so much information that I didn't even think of or know about. thanks for the vids.
Any Ideas on a 2016 Freightliner ? I have some 8's I want to install, may buy a 10 or two, I need an amp for those and plan to take the input wires by splitting off of the 6x9s in my overheads in the condo...thoughts/comments welcome. Thanks. Peace.
I would like to see you design with CAD (3D) software and transfer that design into an actual product :) Although I'm not a big car-audio-nut, I do love watching skilled people work and so your vids are very enjoyable to me. Keep it up!
such a technique is needed for fabricating a box for my personal power wheelchair ... three kicker 6.5 mid range & 4inch sub...w/pyle 4x 800 marine amp... if you decide to give a whirle let me know cause i am Qm710 quickie powertilt seriesw/ bluetooth
I just saw a video on your layering technique to build a Subwoofer Box .I was wondering if you had any ideas on building A subwoofer Box for a Kawasaki ninja. I've watched a lot of your videos and I think that this layer and technique should work.
Hi from New Zealand been watching some of your clips since the harness challenge from soundman Really enjoyed this clip mate I really need a router thanks Subscribed!
You are only limited by your own imagination. you could integrate cupholders, phone chargers, storage compartments. You could coat the material in bed liner. Or how about an overhead console. Thanks for showing us such a great technique.
it would be cool to put the front baffle made out of plexiglass with led lights to admire the inside beauty of the box. just my opinion but cool vid always learn enjoy your videos good job
What do you think about adding Bondo or Bondo Glass to the inside or even the outside of the box once finished with all the layers to keep the MDF from coming apart or keeing the box completely sealed?
great vid, question . . . .....instead of mounting the sub on the side face of the box,is it possible to cut the hole and mount it across the layered section of the box if u have the space and depth for sub to fire upward?
Could you please do a sub enclosure for a Harley Bagger. I will gladly let you use mine since I’m trying to place a 10 inch sub in each bag. Thanks for your consideration in this project
This is a great technique and may prove very useful in an upcoming project my son and I are about to start, a custom box/amp rack for a '98 BMW M3 (E36). Question: If in our build it made more sense to work vertically, because the base is flat, would it be possible or not to mount the sub on the side, by cutting a hole through all the layers after it's a box? The bottom is flat and the front (interior face) would be flat, everywhere else varies. Thanks!
Once did form fitting enclosure from mdf and fiberglass. Added about 5lb of extra resin with chopped fiberglass and 50lb of sandblasting sand to make the fiberglass molding acoustically dead. Heavy as all hell but sounded nice. Also great for winter as it added traction on the rear wheels.
The next video in this series is now online! Check out how I add a more custom look to this box with advanced router and material techniques here: th-cam.com/video/pl1Xvd_Pt-c/w-d-xo.html
Calisthenics
CarAudioFabrication ł
CarAudioFabrication i just watched a couple of your vids and love them. Ive learned something new today. Appreciate it.
I'm an engineer and I am always fascinated with the work you do. There's so much I can learn from you. Thanks for doing these videos. I love how honest and genuine you are, but at the same time do an amazing job.
CarAudioFabrication
Why did you go with a ported box instead of sealed? How did you find the volume of the box?
I think I have learned more about routers from your videos than from dedicated router videos. Nice work.
I’m gonna use this method to make a bass tube type enclosure for my 6.5” subs for my Infiniti build.
Time consuming is an understatement!! Using all your videos, I'm finally almost done building a box for a 2016 F-150 SuperCab. The idea was to create a false floor hiding two JL 10w7's in a ported box.
I avoided having it professionally done because it seemed too complex, annoying, & time consuming for a shop to mess with.
But OH. MY. GOD. What a pain! The satisfaction wore off fast and building this was miserable!! Not to mention the neighborhood is covered in MDF dust, even with some vacuum dust extraction.
Getting 3 cu ft of volume plus a 40 sq inch port size meant using 50 sections. But it's tuned perfectly! (I had goofy shaped port that I added 3/4" sections to until proper tuning).
My biggest takeaway: I will never attempt this type of build again!! Simply too time consuming. As in many weekends. And a mistake can potentially cost you 10 hours versus 1 or 2 hours, for example.
Lots of mistakes and lessons learned, but these videos were invaluable. Thanks! But never doing this style of box again!
Two big lessons learned:
3. A master template made out of MDF can gradually deteriorate (using Whiteside high quality spiral bit). This warps segments over time (e.g. my walls became thinner and straight walls became janky).
2. Make sure you can get your hand in there to sand the port smooth (or anywhere else there will be air movement). My port ran perpendicular to the cuts, so sanding was imperative and annoying and difficult. Wait until the build is almost complete to sand. Don't sand after each piece is glued.
3. Just go talk to a good shop first, if you have money. Maybe they would be willing to tackle this. You don't know if you don't ask. In hindsight I would've been willing to spend $1,500 on my box, assuming a shop would've done it right.
I'm building a portable-ish bluetooth box with a 750w computer PSU driving an amp and 10" sub.
I'm struggling to balance portability with power, and this method looks like a unique solution! I had been thinking of square and clunky tubes and chambers. It was all so complicated. This is simpler!
It amazes me the concepts of boxes people come up with Car Audio is a working ART. Not everyone can just do it you have to be very creative and open minded brother that is a gift you have.
I've been a diy stereo guy off and on for almost 30 years, I've been very successfull, for the most part because I would redo stuff that didn't work out
This guy is a god, my hat off too him
So, stacking is (kinda) the manual way of 3d printing? This would be a great way to do t-line boxes, or complicated and longer ports like the small 3d printed box you made. Wouldn't this also be useful for making rounded sidewalls for more elegant boxes? There are tons of applications for this technique.
I know i thought the same thing
im actually using this on a project at the moment. Making something unique and personal for my PC case.
I think it's dope. Really shows off the craftsmanship and skill of an installer when you see these types of detail
I used this method to put a box into an old piece of luggage. Worked great.
No lie dude, that was the most bad ass box I have ever seen for the Jeep Wrangler. I have a 12W7 in my wrangler and would love to have a box like that built for me. Message me if your interested in building one for me. I would be happy to pay you well for your work.
This box looks very nice!
I would recommend you to use a Profile Gauge Tool to save time.
🇧🇷
I use stacks of 2" PS (pink foam insulation) for making fiberglass molds. I make 3D models in solidworks, then I create a number of parallel planes, 2" apart, to creating slicing features. Then, CAM and CNC out of 4x8 sheets from home depot.
a Rockford that slim? WOW never knew that
by the way, using stacked technique really provides more strength than regular panels.
I plan on using a layered design to build a isobaric 4th order center console enclosure in a Ford Super Duty pickup. It will allow me to maximize volume and add strength, as well as contour the box to better blend into the stock cabin. It will be 2 SSA Icon 10's with a single slot port that exits the console along the floorboard at the rear of the console. Should play relatively flat between 37 and 75 with decent output on a Sundown SCV-3000D
I am going to be making stacked speaker pods for the door speakers in my spl competition car, they will be made of furniture grade plywood and painted with varnish because I love the wood look
not as practical or acoustically good as mdf,and stained plywood does look like an old cottage that couldn't afford to use real wood.you are better to either use real wood or cover your boxes and enclosures in leatherette
I think that layer or stack style would work great to add speakers to a center console in a small car.
My question...how'd you get that Jeep in your kitchen?
Lockers and a good spotter! lol
BigDirtyBasterd don't forget to disconnect!
BigDirtyBasterd ok thats funny as ! $#@... Thanks for the laugh...
+Truckinstuff just
Truckinstuff j
Very impressive workmanship. Great to see a skilled operator and a video production worthy of those skills. Thank you for sharing. BK Australia, Luthier and certified tradesman.
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video, I have a ton more I am sure you would enjoy!
Tip: buy a router table first.
How du you find the volume of these odd shapes?
I came up with a box design alot like this about 10-14 years ago.. Doing the same thing with the Port, but with a baffle, downward firing forced directional back pressure port... It took alot of wood wasted wood that it. But in the end it worked well and is all I use now when building a box... It allows you to make the sub have more bass, range and sharp punch then it would in a spec'd ported, sealed, or band pass box... All without over excursion the sub in either direction. Anyone who heard the systems would swear it was like multiple 12"s or 15"s but nope it was a couple 8"s.. 12s and 15s were even crazier, but some on the precise punch was lost on the 15s..Me and my father used to build show competition systems (spl) , and show car custom systems. (and yes there is a difference... Lol)
Another great video Mark. I'm watching this series as I'll purchase one of these Jeeps for my wife to celebrate after this stage of treatment she's going through.
In answer to the episode question; maybe a clear acrylic baffle piece to show that geometry and layers, of course some resin interior for moisture resistance this could be painted/body matched, all this could be covered by another removable layer/beauty panel/speaker grill to protect and for stealth aid. Of course I like variety of materials/textures as you've done on amp rack. This all adds up creating another dimension to all that hard work. Oh, I know you are not going to start all over but HDPE as main material would be fantastic in terms of its ability to take the abuse in an open top vehicle.
I have been watch your videos, they have been really helpful. Thank you! So they have been giving me the ideas for a stacked enclosure for my 21 Rav 4. I suck at some of the math, but I am pushing through it. 2-8”s one at each back finder wheel. And of course there both different in shapes
I personally would really like to see an older Tacoma DC build to see how you use the space avail…I have an 03 and really like keeping everything stock visually.
I would love to see how you attached this to the wall.....did you use the hard top bolt location?
I wanted to make a layered sealed enclosure for an 8" woofer to be installed in the front doors of my previous car, capped off with an MDF circle to finish it off. Instead I stuffed poly fill in the door behind the woofer and got surprisingly good output with just a factory amplifier.
I subscribed just by how nicely you asked for it.
Layered style totally out of clear Polycarbonate and internally LED illuminated!!!!
That would be siiiiiick!!!!!!
Awesome vids as always bro!!!
Great videos. Building a box for my VW bus under rear seat. My advantage is I have a CNC and could cut something like this in about 10 min. Might take about an hour to draw it and add tool paths . The template takes the longest to get the exact profile
In planning on doing door pods with the layered technique because I need to seal the back to get proper back pressure on the prv midbass 10s I'm going with. Its also going to be easier than fiberglassing.
im a big fan of woodworking and car audio. this has got my wheels turning.
I love This Box Good Idea For Even The Corners In The Trunk Of A Cars. Also That Its( Ported)Hard To Find Sub Boxes Like This & Wouldnt Be Any Clotter In The Center Of The Trunks
Wow…Thank you so much for doing this! A lot of people have less than optimal spaces for subs and speakers.
Alright alright your convinced me! I need and therefore bought a router! Your tutorials are great! Thanks for the inspiration!
I always that that was a great place to put a sub and someone finally did it!
wow, this is great for my fj cruiser replacement woofer box
A good alternative to template tape is masking tape on both surfaces with a thin line of CA glue. The hold is incredible if you burnish both tape surfaces with a credit card
The box is dope! The stacking technique could be used for making center console's as well.
I installed a custom made subwoofer with box that fit under my back seat on a 06 Nissan Frontier CC. Its an MTX subwoofer with a MTX amp. It really bumps and pumps, can't turn it all the way too loud, b/c its too loud. Thanks for the video.
i like this idea iv got a ute with small spaces behind the seats and been thinking for awhile on how to put a sub behind them and this video has helped thanks alot ( subscribe )
@CarAudioFabrication Mark, thinking back to your first video, the curfed port, this stacking technique would make a killer curf that could be simply glued to the edge between 2 mdf panels. This would use much less mdf than doing the entire perimeter with the middle area as waste.
To add strength to the joint between the curved stack and the flat panel just cut a rabbit on the outside of the curved piece and the inside of the panel.
Very cool. next step is water jetting all the pieces to save 90% fab time.
I like seeing bandpass layered enclosures
I would like to see how a box like this would fit in a 2017 Ram. Specifically in the bottom of the back seat with out having to get rid of the boards that extend out, which seems like you have to take out in order to have a box fit in there.
Hi, I would like to know why you chose a vented box instead of a sealed box, Rockford advices the woofer best performs under sealed conditions, advice needed.
You are the best.
exquisite workmanship
This would be a great way to put a couple subs in the trunk of a mid-'90s Caprice / Impala and keep the spare tire in its factory location. One would think the trunk of that car would be huge, but if you want to keep the spare and some semblance of usable space, adding subs is a bit of work.
Ive been thinking about using this technique to make my own center console that'll go inbetween the captain's chair's in my old ford pickup. A center console that has an 8" sub in the bottom of it. It's about the best spot in the truck to put a sub without compromising the use of the back seats.
good work u done it without a automated cnc machine
+DeadlyVenomKing thanks!
I feel like this would be perfect for my 2001 suburban. Rear panel sub box would just upgraded to this beaut.
This will be really easy with a CNC machine. I think I'm going to try this today. Awesome channel btw!
Nice technique. Have a question on material cost. Is this cost effective? Seems like you like you have to waste a lot of mdf.
How does that port hold up under vibration? Would it not be prudent to cross drill and set dowels through each layer?
i might do this for my trunk corners
Love your videos
Regarding suggestions to odd shapes I would love to something more cylindric shapes, something that goes more out in space
Just awesome! I'm not strong is volume calcs (99% of sub building is volume calcs lol), but this is amazing, can wait for my build.
Are you using HDF or MDF for your box builds?
Okay cool. I was having a hard time finding HDF so I was curious how important it was to use it.
Nice job, Mark! Like others have said, that is a lot of work. You tackled it well, though. When I made the sub box for the storage well of my wagon, I used a combination of MDF and fiberglass. I honestly thought that was what you were going to do here. Though I've never done it myself yet, I have often thought that "stack fab" would be great for an elaborate amp rack with multiple levels. Anyway, can't wait to see how you finish off this sub box. I'm assuming that you will use a combo similar to that of the amp rack, and if so, that should look great! Keep it up!
I'm starting a project whit a Cadillac DeVille ,my idea is to use the back seat to install 2 subs but I'm not sure on using fiberglass or MDF all around.install under the back seat
I have a stack fab box in my Jeep Grand Cherokee. Right in same spot factory sub was.
I've been really wanting to make a custom box for my s2000, the spot the soft top sits in since i have a hardtop and the soft top has been removed. I wanted to stick two 10" subs back there as well as two more 6 1/2" speakers. I don't think this is something commonly done. I've started watching your videos to give me an idea on where to start. There is just so much information that I didn't even think of or know about. thanks for the vids.
Wow, pure magic
this is definitely his calling
I would've never thought of that. You are awesome mark
now this is a solid box!
I didn't catch any mention of what the internal air volume of the box is. What would that be?
Any Ideas on a 2016 Freightliner ? I have some 8's I want to install, may buy a 10 or two, I need an amp for those and plan to take the input wires by splitting off of the 6x9s in my overheads in the condo...thoughts/comments welcome. Thanks. Peace.
Hey, you know how Doug Bernard put a subwoofer into 2 boxes at different frequencies. Can you explain how that works in the future? #soundmanca
Would love to buy a pair of these boxes off you
I would like to see you design with CAD (3D) software and transfer that design into an actual product :)
Although I'm not a big car-audio-nut, I do love watching skilled people work and so your vids are very enjoyable to me. Keep it up!
such a technique is needed for fabricating a box for my personal power wheelchair ... three kicker 6.5 mid range & 4inch sub...w/pyle 4x 800 marine amp... if you decide to give a whirle let me know cause i am Qm710 quickie powertilt seriesw/ bluetooth
I just saw a video on your layering technique to build a Subwoofer Box .I was wondering if you had any ideas on building A subwoofer Box for a Kawasaki ninja. I've watched a lot of your videos and I think that this layer and technique should work.
Also this would be for an 8" shallow mount subwoofer
6:40 this is why we running out of trees😂
Hi from New Zealand
been watching some of your clips since the harness challenge from soundman
Really enjoyed this clip mate I really need a router
thanks Subscribed!
You are only limited by your own imagination. you could integrate cupholders, phone chargers, storage compartments. You could coat the material in bed liner. Or how about an overhead console. Thanks for showing us such a great technique.
it would be cool to put the front baffle made out of plexiglass with led lights to admire the inside beauty of the box. just my opinion but cool vid always learn enjoy your videos good job
+javier simental cool idea! Maybe on a future box.
awesome great vid thank you for what you do.
What do you think about adding Bondo or Bondo Glass to the inside or even the outside of the box once finished with all the layers to keep the MDF from coming apart or keeing the box completely sealed?
if clamped and glued properly it isnt necessary at all.
Awesome craftsmanship!
Similar stacked box but for midbass door speakers like Hertz ML1600.
nice video!
Do you have any custom rear side panel sub videos for a 93-98 jeep grand Cherokee? Those are pretty tricky.
Lmao I was like, oh this would be a good idea for my Jeep and bam u were in a Jeep lmao
idk if its a bad idea but i would love to put subs and or amps on the rear windows of my tahoe
I'm thinking about ported 6 inch sub for 2002 Nissan b15 on the sides of the trunk leaving the entire center available...
What the .. Insane .
suas caixas são muito top parabéns
would like to see this done for like the corner of a truck behind the tail light
Been planning to do one of these.. just haven't been able to yet. bummer
Mark, really enjoying watching the very informative how-to videos you’ve posted. Keep up the great work!
great vid, question . . . .....instead of mounting the sub on the side face of the box,is it possible to cut the hole and mount it across the layered section of the box if u have the space and depth for sub to fire upward?
Hay Mark have you ever made a subwoofer box for a 2011-2014 Sonata in the corners I would like to learn
Using spare tire area for a 15”
Could you please do a sub enclosure for a Harley Bagger. I will gladly let you use mine since I’m trying to place a 10 inch sub in each bag. Thanks for your consideration in this project
This is a great technique and may prove very useful in an upcoming project my son and I are about to start, a custom box/amp rack for a '98 BMW M3 (E36). Question: If in our build it made more sense to work vertically, because the base is flat, would it be possible or not to mount the sub on the side, by cutting a hole through all the layers after it's a box? The bottom is flat and the front (interior face) would be flat, everywhere else varies. Thanks!
Yes you can cut the hole through the layers, just make sure you have full contact with adhesive on each layer
There's hidden under seat space in the 2nd row in the transit connect passenger wagon I'm going to try to use for small subs.
Mark do you need to seal the inside layers of MDF? Wasn't sure if a layer of glue or resin would be beneficial? Amazing skills from CAF
+Clint L resin wouldn't hurt, but the benefits wouldn't be substantial
Once did form fitting enclosure from mdf and fiberglass. Added about 5lb of extra resin with chopped fiberglass and 50lb of sandblasting sand to make the fiberglass molding acoustically dead. Heavy as all hell but sounded nice. Also great for winter as it added traction on the rear wheels.