SIG Sauer P210 American Frame Detail Strip Part 1 of 2: Disassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มี.ค. 2022
- A full frame disassembly of the SIG Sauer P210A American, now with the trigger also disassembled by popular demand. Tomorrow I will upload reassembly when I have a chance to recharge the camera battery.
Grayguns and Armorycraft either have released or will be releasing parts for this pistol, so I wanted to do some exploring before deciding on which product and assessing whether I would be able to do the work.
This video is not endorsed by the manufacturer of the pistol, nor the manufacturer of any aftermarket component, or anyone else. What you see is what you get- some guy sitting at a bench taking his pistol apart because he wanted to see how to do it.
Frame REASSEMBLY: • SIG Sauer P210 America...
SLIDE disassembly: • SIG Sauer P210 America...
Check out my other P210 videos for commentary on how the hammer/seat box is functioning. I didn’t elaborate much here for sake of limiting redundancy. • SIG Sauer P210 America...
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I really appreciate your meticulous care that you have for your pistol. Great attention to detail as well. Thank you. Did you learn this on your own while disassembling or did you follow a book?
Thanks. I’ve always been a bit of a tinkerer, and have taken apart a lot of different firearms. In general, once you learn the few common configurations, almost all disassemble in fairly similar ways. For the P210 it’s fairly simple so I just followed a process that seemed logical to me.
@@ColterBrog I am really curious to know more about the hammer box. Particularly, the the “wall” adjustment. It’s hard for me to visualize how that works. It seems like it would be difficult to adjust correctly if it ever slipped as others have mentioned here and elsewhere on the web without significant trial and error and multiple tear downs. I am also curious if you know any sites that give more detail on this, and do you know of any sites that detail polishing friction points. Of course mine is already amazingly smooth and a 2.5# trigger, I just like to know as much as I can about this fine pistol. Thank you again.
@@Mr5150guyThere isn’t much information out there as far as I found. In messing with it myself, it seems like the factory adjustment is pretty much perfect. Anything I tweaked seemed to make it less optimal in some way. And you’re absolutely right that it involves significant trial and error. I wouldn’t mess with it, and based on how it is pressed together I’m not sure it’s intended to ever be disassembled. The pins are extremely tight.
If you want to do anything, I’d just put a high quality gun grease on the engagement surfaces, and if you want to play with the weight without affecting the second stage wall just screwing the main spring barrel nut in and out will make some changes to main spring tension. If you adjust anything else I would definitely mark the parts with a pencil or fine permanent marker before doing anything so it is easy to restore the factory configuration, which is ultimately what I did.
It really is set up well from the factory. In my opinion there isn’t much, if anything, to be gained by tweaking the adjustments.
@@ColterBrog that makes sense. I guess there’s a part of me that just wants to know how to make that wall adjustment if it ever does become loose like others have mentioned. Just my paranoia kicking in. seems like if something can happen. It will happen 😝. In the meantime, I’ll just enjoy it. The trigger is even better than I thought it could be, not that I’ve had access to many match grade pistols.
There doesn’t even seem to be very many spare parts available. Midwestgunworks usually has just about everything you could possibly want for pistols, but not much for the 210. I was going to buy a hammer box just to experiment. No dice.
Thanks again for your replies.
Great job, this helped a lot
It’s fairly straightforward. Only thing that’s a little tricky is reinstalling the trigger without the trigger spring popping out. Not impossible, just tricky.
@@ColterBrog I’ve had the trigger pack out a few times and adjusted the sear settings. Now have a Bruce Grey adjustable flat trigger on order, should solve the trigger pinch problem
@@gregentwistle5105 What’s the trigger pinch problem?
Thank you!!!
I hope it was helpful. Thanks for the comment.
Great video. Can you do a video on the P210 slide disassembly.
Sure. I still need to finish putting the frame back together on camera. After that’s done getting the slide filmed shouldn’t be a big deal- looks pretty straightforward. I’ll tinker with it tomorrow and see if there are any tricks. Should be able to get a video up within a week.
th-cam.com/video/7KL45p0locY/w-d-xo.html
As requested.
Hello:
Thank you for your videos- there are a lot of useful information.
How can a trigger pull weight may be increased?
I have P210 Target model and the trigger is a little too light for my liking.
Thank you!
The barrel nut on the bottom of the hammer strut controls tension on the mainspring. Turning it inward (clockwise if you’re looking at it from the bottom side) will increase tension which gives both more solid hammer strikes and will increase pull weight.
I wouldn’t go more than maybe one or two full turns before trying it out. A little bit of adjustment makes a big difference.
@@ColterBrog Appreciate your prompt response! Thank you!
There’s actually another video I did that doesn’t involve disassembly of the trigger, but goes into more detail on the hammer box.
The hammer box is really where all the workings are at. The trigger itself is just a simple lever.
th-cam.com/video/GlLUc2DN7Dg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video it’s very helpful. I’m going to try to put the Grayguns flat trigger in…do I need to take everything down in order to get the trigger out or can I leave anything intact?
Well, you definitely don’t need to take out the magazine catch. Other than that… I’d have to go study it again since it’s been a while since I had it apart, but really it disassembles easy enough I’d just go ahead and take the rest out.
The GrayGuns is trickier to install. I have some posts about it over on SIG forum. The profile makes it tricky to install the trigger spring. I ended up using a very small wooden dowel to flex in there and hold/compress the spring until the trigger bar moved enough to capture it. Definitely takes some finesse and patience.
@@ColterBrog thanks for your reply. How did you get the flexed dowel out once the trigger is in. That spring is really tricky!
@@Timrh23 I used the stick from a cotton swab. Just kind of flex it in from the side and press the spring while pivoting the trigger and trigger bar together until that shelf on the bar catches it. Then just work it out from the trigger guard while continuing to move the trigger into place.
It’s definitely tricky, but it can be done.
Very informative video but please make another video how to make trigger lighter.
Thank you.
I have a video describing functions of the hammer box. I’m limited in what I’m allowed to say, but I think you can probably find some information in that video that is helpful.
So safety is incredibly stiff. Do you have any suggestions on how to make it smoother?
I would first just apply some oil to the detent and work it back and forth between safe and fire a couple hundred times. That should smooth up the bearing surfaces and let the spring take a set.
Gracias, tengo un P210 target Americano, el disparador tiene el primer tiempo, pero no hace parada en el segundo tiempo, es difícil de disparar porque no se nota el segundo tiempo, tiene regulación? Un saludo Gracias desde España.
I think you are referring to what we call the “reset” in English. The click that is felt when releasing the trigger to know it can be pulled again. We call it “riding the reset”.
Unfortunately the P210 has a sort of false reset that can trick us. I have not found a way to get rid of this, and I believe it is inherent to the design. I don’t think it can safely be made to have a positive and true reset due to the nature of the design.
I hope this translates well.
@@ColterBrog gracias por contestar, mi problema es que no noto parada del segundo tiempo antes del disparo, no se si me explico, todas las armas tienen dos tiempo, aquí al principio si lo tenia,después de 100 disparos desapareció, no solo la mía,la de otro compañero también, modelo 2024,tiene un mes. Un saludo gracias.
@@topdigitalphoneroman2000Ah, I think I understand now. We call this “two stage trigger”. The initial take up is light weight, then becomes heavy before the shot fires.
I have an older video that explains more of the hammer box. The adjustment for that is within the hammer box. It sounds like yours may have slipped. There is a set screw that secures the adjustment, so be sure it is loosened before adjust it back to where it should be and then tighten it back down snugly to ensure it doesn’t back out again. It sounds like yours may not have been sufficiently tightened at the factory.
Gracias de nuevo, ahora si es como me comentas, he conseguido ponerlo bien, sacando el Cassette del disparador ,aflojando primero el tornillo pequeño y ajustando el más grande y de nuevo apretando el pequeño, muchas gracias por tu información y tiempo, un saludo.
@@topdigitalphoneroman2000I think you have it right.
The screw secures a piece which spins, but itself is not actually a screw. It is an irregularly shaped pin, a non-concentric barrel of sorts, that makes the adjustment and then is stopped by the small screw. Turning that pin is what adjusts the “wall” in the trigger pull to make it more or less pronounced if my memory is correct.
I’m using a lot of words hoping something translates in a way that makes sense. I don’t know the best way to say it even in English.
Suggestions The camera is too far away to see the details
Yeah, a lot of this comes down to me not being really well practiced at staying in frame, so I end up going wider to give myself some wiggle room. (Filming on an iPhone attached to a 2x4 probably doesn’t help, either.)
Is there a specific part causing you trouble?