Wow, this is what the internet was built for - straight to the point well described info. Really liking your work. Nice rant at the end. Countries are just lines drawn in the sand with a stick. You choose which human you want to help. Thanks for tbe video. It will help me out on my Indy 600 1995.
Great informative videos. While watching i realized I recognized your screen name from the forums. I've learned quite a bit from you there as well. Thank you for taking the time to share experience and knowledge. You give people confidence to work on their own stuff and save money.
The clutch removal tool can be made from a 3/4"-16NF piece of all-thread rod about 9" long. Weld a nut or jam a couple of 3/4"-16NF nuts on the end so that you can apply a socket and breaker bar. Also grind the end that pushes against the crankshaft to a bit of a taper so that if it mushrooms you can still get it back out. You may need a similar tool if you want to remove the secondary drive, and it can be made from a piece of 1"-12NF all-thread. Or you can buy the special tools for around $200.
Lots of great info here thank you very much. Im replacing a siezed one way bearing in a 18 sportsman 850 XP and want to add that on the XP ATVs where the engine is sideways the clutches spins backwards to normal so the retaining bolt and main spider have backwards threads. The one way bearing is of course opposite as well. I have also heard that you don't really want to use a holding tool that holds the cooling fins. Reason being that you can spin the lower shieve on the main shaft and upset the balance. The preferred holding tool looks just like the crankshaft. You can make one out of a dead polaris snowmobile crank if you have one around. Or they can be bought of course. It's also reccomended to make alignment marks on all the pieces and re align when re assembling to maintain the balance. Some clutches have an "X" stamped in from factory on the cover, spider and both shieves for alignment. Obviously its not critical if you have been doing it this way and not had trouble, but not a bad idea anyway.
Thank you Art, Just trying to help other folks out that are trying to do things themselves. Not many people take the time to work on things anymore, they just replace... making/repairing things is becoming a lost art.
I held my clutch the same as you. Ended up turning the main shaft inside the rear sheave. Not good. I now use a junk crankshaft as a clutch holder and everything stays put.
Good video! Thank you... my clutch stuck today and it was refurbished last year. I was wondering if you had any idea what the problem was. I gave it 2 or 3 blows with the rubber hammer and it came back OK. It happened after heavy braking. Polaris Switchback 2012
Thanks Bill, the imported Parts did not hold up well at all. So far I have had the best luck using Factory Polaris buttons and rollers, or parts from EPI.
Hey I'm with you on the expensive Polaris parts, I feel I'd be crazy to spend excessively high dollars for parts. My starter, starter drive, and solenoid are all Taiwan parts. LOL. I have been union for 39 years but; can't justify the high cost of parts, just a waste of good money. Trust me, on your side on this one. But that being said, I will be freshening up my clutch at some point just for maintenance reasons, been getting her back in shape after my son gave it a workout.
I would like to send you a big THANK YOU from Vernal for your video! My father in laws Sportsman 500 HO is having serious drive issues. Sure other videos are out there, but yours isn't full of excessive chatter and is to the point. Plus, I see that you don't need all of the high dollar tools if we're handy enough to make them ourselves.
'm glad it was helpful! I feel I get long winded in these videos, but I have so much to say! lol. Home built tools are a great thing if a person has some welding/cutting skills and some imagination. Thanks for watching!
Very good video's. Nice work on your homemade tools. Polaris sure make some crap for clutch's and their pricing on repair parts make john deere stuff seem cheap. Most of the rangers and rzr's that come into my shop for clutch work are so wallered out that it's a waste of time and money to try and rebuild them.
I agree, polaris's clutches leave much to be desired, but I've found that if I go into them about every 300-400 hours and replace buttons, and inspect/replace rollers/weights and grease the idler bearing, The clutch will last a LONG time. I have two of them now that have over 1500 hours on them now just by servicing them every fall.. If you don't like the price of polaris parts, just price out some clutches on japanese machines. It's nuts! Might be the one and only reason I stay with polaris side by sides.
Very nice and informative video. We have a Sportsman 500 H.O., with a ticking noise at a certain rpm. I have isolated the noise to the EBS clutch, like you are rebuilding. If there is some play in the clutch on the shaft, would a rebuild kit fix it?
Is the ticking noise down around idle? That's usually pretty typical on worn clutches with single cylinder engines. I think the noise is from either worn buttons or the shift weights clicking back and forth. That would be where I'd look
Hi, I have a rzr 900 and just now inspecting the clutches. I don't have all the tools like you do to take the spider apart, but was wondering if the ebay 200.00 clutches are any good? I seen you talking about them, and was wondering what you Thought? Even if they'd only last 300 hrs or so, it's worth it for the price.
I'm rebuilding my p-85 off an '02 xc800sp "edge x" I ordered a primary rebuild kit, and the buttons (.250) are too thick and do not clear the towers. I've called many dealers and clutch part manufacturers and they say their buttons very from . 250" to .182" in thickness. Have you had any problems getting the right size buttons?
Liked the video except that last part. What do you do for a living? How much do you make a year? I wonder if you'd feel the same if your job was sent to China, your salary cut in half so the corporation could make more money and you couldn't afford to own a Polaris so you wouldn't have to worry about where to buy the cheapest parts available.
yup very well made video,i subbed forsure..one thing i did noticed thou is you didnt mark the inner sheave on the primary , thats balanced too.beside that id say it was perfect,you should be a teacher .way to go ! you know another good teacher ,check out his channel is named Shane Conley,he's a teacher down in IA state college.
Thank you much for the nice words! I've seen the drill holes to balance the lower sheave, but don't know what you'd balance/align it to since the spider/outer sheave thread onto the lower and I have no control over where they torque up at in relation to alignment with the lower sheave. Maybe I'm missing something obvious? Take care!
Not very difficult, the access to the pin is from where the button pockets are. One side will be more rounded the other will be more flat. Use a punch and Hammer and hit the pin on the rounded side driving it out. There should be a washer on both sides of each roller make sure you replace them when you go back together with new rollers. You will most likely need to replace the pins as well as they usually get damaged when rollers fail
Hours have nothing to do with it. Union's have been destroying companies for decades. Detroit or Chicago anybody?.... it doesn't matter to me that you're union, but seeing American companies die off so workers can have more benefits chapps my ass.. I work 6-7 days a week and avg near 70-80 hours per week through the year. Sometimes more. With a company to sustain and a wife and 4 kids to take care of . I think that leaves me qualified to talk down union's. Maybe they were a good thing once, but are now out of control.
Didn't like your comment about union...there isn't one at team industries....its the profit margin of said company....employees maybe are at 15 hrly....
Great info but am disgusted by your comments about supporting a 6 year old being a slave basicly instead of respecting your fellow American citizen. Sad.
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Wow, this is what the internet was built for - straight to the point well described info. Really liking your work. Nice rant at the end. Countries are just lines drawn in the sand with a stick. You choose which human you want to help. Thanks for tbe video. It will help me out on my Indy 600 1995.
Great informative videos. While watching i realized I recognized your screen name from the forums. I've learned quite a bit from you there as well. Thank you for taking the time to share experience and knowledge. You give people confidence to work on their own stuff and save money.
The clutch removal tool can be made from a 3/4"-16NF piece of all-thread rod about 9" long. Weld a nut or jam a couple of 3/4"-16NF nuts on the end so that you can apply a socket and breaker bar. Also grind the end that pushes against the crankshaft to a bit of a taper so that if it mushrooms you can still get it back out. You may need a similar tool if you want to remove the secondary drive, and it can be made from a piece of 1"-12NF all-thread. Or you can buy the special tools for around $200.
EXCELLENT video. Very informative, and not as horribly boring to watch like most! Thanks great work
One of the best videos I've seen in a LONG time, thank you so much
Lots of great info here thank you very much. Im replacing a siezed one way bearing in a 18 sportsman 850 XP and want to add that on the XP ATVs where the engine is sideways the clutches spins backwards to normal so the retaining bolt and main spider have backwards threads. The one way bearing is of course opposite as well.
I have also heard that you don't really want to use a holding tool that holds the cooling fins. Reason being that you can spin the lower shieve on the main shaft and upset the balance. The preferred holding tool looks just like the crankshaft. You can make one out of a dead polaris snowmobile crank if you have one around. Or they can be bought of course.
It's also reccomended to make alignment marks on all the pieces and re align when re assembling to maintain the balance. Some clutches have an "X" stamped in from factory on the cover, spider and both shieves for alignment.
Obviously its not critical if you have been doing it this way and not had trouble, but not a bad idea anyway.
Thank you for the genius tool idea. Also isn't there a thin nut that locks the spider in ?
Very nice video at explaining how the clutch works and what wears out. Very ingenious tool maker.
Thank you Art, Just trying to help other folks out that are trying to do things themselves. Not many people take the time to work on things anymore, they just replace... making/repairing things is becoming a lost art.
I held my clutch the same as you. Ended up turning the main shaft inside the rear sheave. Not good. I now use a junk crankshaft as a clutch holder and everything stays put.
Wow. You really explain the rebuild well. Thank you so much.
Good video! Thank you...
my clutch stuck today and it was refurbished last year. I was wondering if you had any idea what the problem was. I gave it 2 or 3 blows with the rubber hammer and it came back OK. It happened after heavy braking.
Polaris Switchback 2012
Nice video. What grease did you use for the one way bearing? Did you remove the needles or clean inside or just put on new grease over top?
Thanks for the explanation how the aftermarket parts work do you mind to tell?
Hey great job very much enjoyed that I have my Polaris some going to work on as well what do you think about after market clutches thank you
Great video. Would sure like to know how the imported parts have lasted (or not). Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Bill, the imported Parts did not hold up well at all. So far I have had the best luck using Factory Polaris buttons and rollers, or parts from EPI.
Good video, keep on keepin it real!
Great video in explaining clutch rebuilding. What grease did you use on the bearing?
great video ! 2020 hours on that clutch ? That's fantastic !
Will a worn clutch cause over revving ? Cause a miss not engine to fast before bike moves
Hey I'm with you on the expensive Polaris parts, I feel I'd be crazy to spend excessively high dollars for parts. My starter, starter drive, and solenoid are all Taiwan parts. LOL. I have been union for 39 years but; can't justify the high cost of parts, just a waste of good money. Trust me, on your side on this one. But that being said, I will be freshening up my clutch at some point just for maintenance reasons, been getting her back in shape after my son gave it a workout.
I would like to send you a big THANK YOU from Vernal for your video! My father in laws Sportsman 500 HO is having serious drive issues. Sure other videos are out there, but yours isn't full of excessive chatter and is to the point. Plus, I see that you don't need all of the high dollar tools if we're handy enough to make them ourselves.
'm glad it was helpful! I feel I get long winded in these videos, but I
have so much to say! lol. Home built tools are a great thing if a
person has some welding/cutting skills and some imagination. Thanks for
watching!
Try the high strength/high heat loctite w/primer....I think the number is 727 or 272,,,,
Very good video's. Nice work on your homemade tools. Polaris sure make some crap for clutch's and their pricing on repair parts make john deere stuff seem cheap. Most of the rangers and rzr's that come into my shop for clutch work are so wallered out that it's a waste of time and money to try and rebuild them.
I agree, polaris's clutches leave much to be desired, but I've found that if I go into them about every 300-400 hours and replace buttons, and inspect/replace rollers/weights and grease the idler bearing, The clutch will last a LONG time. I have two of them now that have over 1500 hours on them now just by servicing them every fall..
If you don't like the price of polaris parts, just price out some clutches on japanese machines. It's nuts! Might be the one and only reason I stay with polaris side by sides.
excellent video series. Thank you for your effort. Also, could i borrow your homemade tools?
Thank you for the kind words, unfortunately I do not loan my tools out
How do you remove the cover after you remove those 6 3/8 bolts
Don't you have to use Loctite on your spider trads
Very nice and informative video. We have a Sportsman 500 H.O., with a ticking noise at a certain rpm. I have isolated the noise to the EBS clutch, like you are rebuilding. If there is some play in the clutch on the shaft, would a rebuild kit fix it?
Is the ticking noise down around idle? That's usually pretty typical on worn clutches with single cylinder engines. I think the noise is from either worn buttons or the shift weights clicking back and forth. That would be where I'd look
DieselFume1 yes, just above idle, about 15-1700 rpms, we got a rebuild kit coming, hopefully that fixes it👍
Did you use lock tite on the spider?
Hi, I have a rzr 900 and just now inspecting the clutches. I don't have all the tools like you do to take the spider apart, but was wondering if the ebay 200.00 clutches are any good? I seen you talking about them, and was wondering what you Thought? Even if they'd only last 300 hrs or so, it's worth it for the price.
I've never tried one of those cheap eBay clutches, I've used some of those cheap eBay rebuild parts and I'm not been impressed
I'm rebuilding my p-85 off an '02 xc800sp "edge x" I ordered a primary rebuild kit, and the buttons (.250) are too thick and do not clear the towers. I've called many dealers and clutch part manufacturers and they say their buttons very from . 250" to .182" in thickness. Have you had any problems getting the right size buttons?
I have not had any issue that way, but have not dealt with that specific clutch before either
@@OldGlory1776 do you know if the buttons you've used on various p-85 clutches have differed in size?
Liked the video except that last part. What do you do for a living? How much do you make a year? I wonder if you'd feel the same if your job was sent to China, your salary cut in half so the corporation could make more money and you couldn't afford to own a Polaris so you wouldn't have to worry about where to buy the cheapest parts available.
Should have just went back to first video to see which way the one way bearing spun
Great vid, Thanks a Ton.
You're welcome, hope it helped!
yup very well made video,i subbed forsure..one thing i did noticed thou is you didnt mark the inner sheave on the primary , thats balanced too.beside that id say it was perfect,you should be a teacher .way to go ! you know another good teacher ,check out his channel is named Shane Conley,he's a teacher down in IA state college.
Thank you much for the nice words! I've seen the drill holes to balance the lower sheave, but don't know what you'd balance/align it to since the spider/outer sheave thread onto the lower and I have no control over where they torque up at in relation to alignment with the lower sheave. Maybe I'm missing something obvious? Take care!
How do you replace the rollers? Do I need a special tool?
Not very difficult, the access to the pin is from where the button pockets are. One side will be more rounded the other will be more flat. Use a punch and Hammer and hit the pin on the rounded side driving it out. There should be a washer on both sides of each roller make sure you replace them when you go back together with new rollers. You will most likely need to replace the pins as well as they usually get damaged when rollers fail
Where did you find the replacement buttons and rollers? I am in need of a clutch rebuild
Michael Garrett best to get them from EPI or Polaris. The eBay stuff turned out to be cheap commie junk
Top vid bud very helpful
very helpful, thanks
awesome help Thanks,
How did this rebuild worked?
Works great rebuilt clutches like this many times
how did those tiwanese buttons do?
They're junk don't use them
@@OldGlory1776 thank you good sir. Yet again "jdm as f" fails again lol.
I work a union job and work 50 plus hours to feed my family if you could tell me where I can do that for 30 hours a week that would be great
Hours have nothing to do with it. Union's have been destroying companies for decades. Detroit or Chicago anybody?.... it doesn't matter to me that you're union, but seeing American companies die off so workers can have more benefits chapps my ass.. I work 6-7 days a week and avg near 70-80 hours per week through the year. Sometimes more. With a company to sustain and a wife and 4 kids to take care of . I think that leaves me qualified to talk down union's. Maybe they were a good thing once, but are now out of control.
@@OldGlory1776 x2. ditch the union.
Didn't like your comment about union...there isn't one at team industries....its the profit margin of said company....employees maybe are at 15 hrly....
Great info but am disgusted by your comments about supporting a 6 year old being a slave basicly instead of respecting your fellow American citizen. Sad.