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Polaris Drive Clutch Primary Rebuild Part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2016
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Check out the JB Weld Clutch fix video- • JB Weld Polaris Drive ...
This clutch fits 800 model Rangers, but most of this would apply to nearly all polaris CVT clutches
Love this video! Thank you for the detailed instructions!
i love all the custom tools on these videos. good job. also this is probably the best depth video ive seen so far on clutch dissassemblies with parts focus.
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@Deangelo Arian Instablaster :)
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Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
@Deangelo Arian glad I could help =)
Great video. Funny how this clutch is egging out and almost ready for rebuild, you should see the clutch in my sled...heh.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Awesome,thanks for the info.
Good job and video.
I greet you! I wanted to change those pads myself on a 2007 polaris sportsman 500 but couldn't get that part to thread. I gave even with heat and nothing. I gave up because he wanted to break up with acx with everything.
Good vid thanks
Very nice vid, learnt how to. One question: my Sportsman 550 primary has a small rotating slack/tapping while turning it by hand backing and forth.
Is the damper/clutch nut loose? (very clear tapping sound at idle)
Good informative video. Thnx
you are welcome! thanks for watching!
The last thing you showed in this video you said you were probably going to pull the pins. Do you mean the 3 bolts with nuts ? Can't get them out is there a trick to those. Thanks
You can make you own puller/pusher.....3/4 rod 16 threads per inch or 3/4 x 16 piece of all thread
Yep. Heard of lots of guys doing this. I never knew the size of rod to buy, but this would be a great alternative for anyone looking for a puller!
My Clutch tool won't thread its too big I know the threads are 9/16-20 or 18 I think for the clutch bolt, but there is another piece inside that hole maybe its a spacer? anyone know?
im working on a sled. i cant get that spider to come lose. broke my breaker bar. with a 3 foot bar on top of the breaker bar. would it be ok to throw some heat on that? i used a little propane torch. but maybe bigger and more heat? thanks for the video.
Tommy Schulte yes you can heat it just be careful of your buttons in the spider. Bigger torch would be better. Always try to heat the spider not the shaft and try break it free before the shaft absorbs the heat from the spider.
Great vid,i bought a 850 xp sportsman '11,guy put on a new belt,but it has a intermittent jerk at slow take off, and while backing it up the ramps,its pauses and jerks even worse,and whe going from park into gear,u have to bring up the rpm towards 2000.any help will be appreciated, also it has 2400 miles,stock configuration
A couple things can cause that- First I'd check the primary clutch, make sure it's moving in and out freely without binding. Use compressed air to blow the dust out around the buttons. Also pay special attention to the shaft that the sheaves and outer cover ride up and down on. It should be smooth, not rough. But the real culprit I feel in this situation could be something to do with your secondary clutch. It almost sounds like the clutch is partially open when it should be clamped completely shut on the belt at idle. It could be when the last belt failed, some of the cords of the belt could have gotten wedged between the clutch sheaves, partially holding it open. Also from time to time I've seen the secondary clutch rollers get flat spots on them, which won't allow it to open and close properly. I would remove it, and inspect. Before you take it off, when you look at it, the belt should be riding way up on the outside of the sheaves. Maybe even about 1/3 of the belt should be riding above them.... if it's riding anywhere down between the sheaves then your secondary's stuck.
Looking for maintance on one way beating.
Do you clean and grease all the needle bearings in it or just clean em. Or lube some?
I spray out the bearing with some brake cleaner followed by some compressed air. Then use a light amount of grease and smear it into the bearings with your finger. WIpe away any excess so that when you slip it back on you don't have grease everywhere. Remember, when the clutch is back in operation any grease that the bearing can't hold will be flung out onto the sheaves and belt, and you don't want that. Sometimes less is more.!
i think they call it a sprag.were were it only goes one way automatic transmission have them an that's what they're called. thanks for video
How has the cheapo eBay clutch kit held up. I’m wondering if I should buy a nicer one or just get the cheap one.
Splurge for the better kit, the ebay buttons/rollers weren't that good. I like the epi stuff
What will happen if your x came off while cleaning. I don't remember how it was before I tore it down. Will the engine still run?
sometimes the factory clutches are marked. There's an "X" cast into one of the legs of the spider that is many times lined up with a black sharpie mark on the outer sheave when I take them apart. Not sure if yours will have it or not.
If not, just put it together, more than likely it will be fine. if you have a horrible vibration, then I'd take it back apart and move the spider to another notch on the sheave. I'm betting you'll have no issues at all.
I always use a center punch when removing parts that need to be aligned then the mark never goes away its permanent
Hola como están también esta este video en español?
Is there a chance you could send me a pic of the holding tool you made? Was it fairly easy?
I could try to do that I'm away from home right now but possibly tonight I could take some pictures of it. Would it be easier if I just posted them up on side-by-side nation.com? Or would you like me to try to email them to you directly?
have you ever changed the idle air control valve on polaris ranger
joseph guerra I've never changed them but I've cleaned them on all the Rangers we have simply taken out the three screws that hold the back together and washing out with brake cleaner will take care of most of the rough running / elevated idle issues
I have taken them apart to clean them. Never needed to change one even with 4 800 rangers with over 22K miles each. Just take the screws out of the IAC and clean out the body with brake cleaner and re-assemble. will take care of every problem I've seen with it unless you have wiring harness problems. Take a look!
Hi thanks ! I took my clutch apart but it came off the bottom not the top . Any ideas now the the bottom is loose? I’m going to replace the one way bearing and the has to come off the top , Thank you so much .
You have to remove the top cover, then buy or build a tool to loosen the spider that holds the buttons. Once threaded off you can remove the one way bearing
DieselFume1 thanks but the problem is the shaft unscrewed from the bottom. My email is dgagne64@gmail.com if you can email me I can send a video thanks
The bottom I’m talking about it the base of the clutch ware you have the clamps , my shaft unscrewed from that instead of the spider unscrewing . Thanks hope that helps explain my problem.
Dave
Never seen or heard of the threaded shaft coming out of the base of the clutch, that is not common and shouldn't happen. You probably need a new clutch
DieselFume1 that’s what I’m thinking , I really appreciate your time and you make some great videos . It seems harder and harder theses days to find people just making videos to help others after google took over tube !
I was just wandering how did that rebuild kit from ebay worked out for you,,?
Not good. Buy polaris or epi parts
@@OldGlory1776 ok thanks, i have a rzr 800 i replaced drive belt i noticed the weights sre pretty wobblely im sure it needs new clutch or a rebuild kit
Worn out clutch at 500 miles? Is that normal?
He said 500 hours
I have a POLARIS 800 xc sp,(just rebuilt the motor & added mechanical reverse ) I changed the belts twice,my problem is after a few minutes the sled won't move ,I have to work the throttle (feathering)walking the sled finally running along side of it to get it finally moving fast enough to jump on it goes for awhile until I slow down,and its starts all over again just about smoking up the belt- I just wanted to make a point that the sled had the same exact problem before motor rebuild & adding mechanical reverse. -and also it works ok when sled is up on the snowmobile crane lift.-with NO WEIGHT FROM RIDER-. I have a brand NEW belt that I regret to put on because of this PROBLEM. -HELP- I NEED TO FIX THIS PROBLEM RIGHT AWAY. - Thank you -
Not much of an expert on sleds, but you could be dealing with a spring or weight issue on the clutch, or sounds like your engine could be jetted to Rich, or your temperature is too warm outside causing the engine to richen up. What RPM does your clutch engage? I think on those 700xc's it should be up around 4,500 or so
Thank you DieselFume1
Hi GG
Is it possible that the one way bearing was put back in upside down during all the work you did on it ?
Does this apply for polaris snowmobiles? Thx
I have not had a snowmobile clutch apart yet but many of the folks I talked to said the clutches are near identical to ones used in Rangers. So I would think much of this would apply to your snowmobile. Biggest difference I could see is there is no issues from dirt getting into bushings or behind the buttons on a snowmobile clutch. So they should have a much longer life span
@@OldGlory1776 👍
Do you have a link to where you bought the hardware? And how did it stand up?
are you talking about the off brand buttons?
DieselFume1 yessir
I used those cheap knockoff buttons on two clutches, and I wasn't too
impressed with the life out of them. I inspected the clutches 200 hours
after I rebuilt them to find the buttons had worn badly and some were
even starting to chunk out from heat/stress. I would never buy them
again, they came from ebay. I have found some buttons through EPI that
look and perform just like the ones from Polaris. I have had really
good luck with them so far. Just go to their web site, they have
different options for kits available. I think you can buy just buttons
alone, or buttons with rollers, maybe even weights. If you haven't
been into it in a few hundred hours or 5000 miles, I think I'd buy
buttons, rollers and weight pins and plan on needing them. Usually if
the weight pins are worn the weight holes are egg shaped as well. If
they are, better replace them too.
Is it possible to remove the spider with the clutch on the machine still. Ie it would save me having to build that sheave clamp for the vice at the start of the video.
@@rdyjur Sorry I missed this comment till now. I won't attempt to remove the spider on the machine. It takes around 200 ft/lbs to break that loose, and you would have a VERY difficult time holding the base of the clutch to break it loose. If you don't have the tools available to you, or the means to build them, you could buy or borrow the clutch removal rod, and then have a polaris dealer put the new parts in the clutch for you. you would have to pay them very little labor to do that.
I’m looking for info
On this style clutch .. can you tell me the diameter of the crank , at the largest point of the taper .. I want to know if it would be possible to spin the clutch down to fit a 1” straight shaft with a 1/4” key way .. i am willing to go to some length of engineering if necessary
Did you ever fit this clutch to a 1 inch shaft got a ranger 500 blown up want slap in a v twin
@@drochasal1341 nope , 🤣 my ass has been working .. my bike has been on the back burner for like 2 years straight right now. But all you have to do is mill it to 1” and file a slot for the keyway
@@paulskartslifan4206 i know the feeling so if you have a 1 inch shaft with keyway no need to mill correct?
@@drochasal1341 the clutch has a taper , if you have a1” straight you’ll need to taper the crank or remove the taper from the clutch
i broke my bottom plate trying to take that fucking spider off. Anyone know where i can get the bottom plate?
So im late to this party. I have a 18 ranger i bought new, im older. its had a pretty easy life. Ive been told by two different aftermarket companies to not waste your time rebuilding your clutches cause it wont last. both told me to buy new clutches. I have 3500 miles on mine and i have the take off shudder. I put a different belt on and it took it away for about 500 miles..now its starting to come back so i reached out to both companies and thats what they told me. are they just trying to get in my wallet or what.
It depends. If the button pockets are worn out on the clutch or it has other issues, it's cheaper to buy a new clutch . But at 3500 miles I would say it's highly unlikely your clutch is beyond rebuilding. I have had pretty good luck withChinese knock off clutches that you can find on eBay sold by Harvey's ATV parts. For about half of what Polaris wants.
@@OldGlory1776 Thanks for the response. At what mileage should u expect to rebuild or should rebuild one of these before you are forced to buy entire new set up?
Говорил бы ты по Русски и цены тебе бы небыло. А так,молодец.