What is Brake Bedding (Breaking In Brakes)??? Detailed Description
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ต.ค. 2019
- Brake bedding is one of the most ignored practice when performing brake services.
To sum it all up, brake bedding is the process of transferring your brake pad material onto your brake rotor surface EVENLY the first several hundred miles of operation.
This video is unscripted so excuse the repetitive statements.
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Take care. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Finally a video that explains why and how.
This was a simple, to the point and EXTREMELY educational tutorial. I wish other tubers would make things this simple...... THANK YOU!!
Great info! Doing some brakes soon and I know about bedding but still learned something new
EXCELLENT. I just made this mistake. New pads on old but smooth rotors. After three weeks i started getting squealing!!! So i had to get new rotors and i also got new pads to be safe. Just broke in. We’ll see how she goes. One other time this procedure was perfect. I keep 3 week old pads to use later down the road as they look like new.
Oh wow. I was going to change my pads without changing the rotors. Thanks for the informative vid!!
Best explanation of this that I have seen after watching a number of videos. Thanks for posting.
Thank you Stephen for your kind words, I’m glad you liked it.
Like the snowboarding reference makes complete sense with that analogy
Good brake jobs are not cheep, and cheep brake jobs are not good. Everything you said is very true. Never pad slap.
I learned something new here.
Thanks for the video
Glad it helped. Please share the knowledge with others.
Fantastic information!! Thank you for sharing it really helped me out.
I'm not sure what you are saying my friend, but according to any service manual, service schedule I have read and my personal experience, you can just replace only the pads just fine and only replace the rotors once they are less than a minimum determined thickness, or they are warped, other than that I've never heard of or had any issues regarding only replacing the pads without any work to the rotors.
Osama, I am also speaking from personal experience. If you go to any dealership and ask for just a “pad slap”, most will be reluctant to perform just that due to risk of comebacks. DIYers might get away with just changing the pads but if you take every car on the road and do the same practice, a big portion of them won’t be as fortunate as yours. The service manual may say “change brake pads @ xxx amount of miles” but many other factors must be considered as well instead of just following the manual. Each driver has their different driving habits and different road conditions, so each car coming into the shop for brake issues will vary. Take care.
Wayne
How you don’t understand ? He know what he talking about from experience I just know what he means because my car did that changed every thing I’ve even lubricant the metal to metal contact but I got sports brakes on my car never had them before and as soon I changed them started squeaking
I'm 60, grew up in my dad's auto wrecking yard, worked on cars my entire life, and I never replaced shoes/pads without drums/rotors also, for the reasons this young man has very clearly stated in this video. At least since about 84 when parts became cheap enough to warrant replacement over turning on the lathe. Cheers.
@@couchpotatoe3204 So you've never seen a rotor turned ? Go buy your local O'Reilly's or AutoZone And you've never seen the specs on a drum that tells you exact millimeter thickness it can be before it has to be replaced ? You guys must have some deep pockets 😜
Same. I have 250,000 miles on my mercedes and never chagned the rotors until today because theres a big lip on my front rotors, lol. I just kept changing the pads. But im sure my rotors are below the minimum thickness. It wasn't till someone with an AMG mercedes told me they had to change the rotors with the brakes. I was like dafuk u don't. I'm 250,000 reasons why thats' not true.
Learned some stuff. Good bless you. Thanks from Texas.
Thanks for watching
Good advice. Thanks.
My friend bought a new MG car. I think it's 1 yr old now. I saw last month all this red stuff on her hubcaps. (I don't drive myself, but I'm worried as she is elderly)
Is that normal to have all that red dust on them? I didn't see that on her other car.
Are the brakes overheating, or does she just have to break in the new car?
Can you please help me?
Informative Video. Thanks for sharing.
No problem CMM, thanks for taking the time to watch my video.
How many times do you need to do the break in cycles to get a proper seating?
After 2 sets of brake rotors, I learned not to hold my brakes at every red light and use hand brake instead. this year, no new rotors :)
Wow I’m learning a lot about breaking
Thmx
Nice vid big bro ty
That makes alot of sense about the freeway problem. So I warped or thought I messed my rotors up and I replaced the rotors for new ones AGAIN. I have NEW rotors And I got the brakes just 4 days ago. These brakes have been driven on for 4 days. Can I still use them on the new rotor and I just also did a "bedding" process just ten minutes before this comment post
Your 4 day old brake pads should be ok to use if they seem relatively flat. Since you’ve already installed them just be really light on your brakes. Anticipating your braking in advance helps and Apply just enough pressure to hold your vehicle still during stops. You’ll notice just resting your foot on the brakes is all that’s needed to keep it from moving. Only on steep hills you’ll need more pressure to stop.
Much knowledge, such appreciate
Thanks for the information, love the video, I do have a quick question for you brother, What's the difference between an all flat brake pad and a pad that has those outer angle cuts? Thanks ✌
Thank you for watching Roger, as for the brake pad. What you’re referring to are the chamfers on the edge of the brake pad. They reduce brake noise and also allow for better pad to rotor contact. Think of a snow slay vs a box going down hill. the curve in front of the slay guides you smoothly while the box will be really rough. Without the curve it wouldn’t slay as smooth vs the 90 degree box angle which will collect snow and won’t travel smoothly. Hope that analogy made sense
Thank u so much sir
Awesoma explanation 👍👍
Oh man, that's my problem. And I had that ugly pad imprint on my new DBA T4 rotor, I even got them machined but they didn't take long to build the film in the same spot. Thank you, great explanation.
Thank you for watching
How do you do the bedding?
Good information, thank you. My question is, do you recommend driving on the highway to break in the pads and rotors so your not holding the break at a stop light? And how long/miles does it take to break in the pads and rotors?
The difficult thing is breaking in brakes requires a lot of improvising due to different road conditions depending on the location. The perfect area for me is a secluded areas like warehouse roads but I understand it’s not available to everyone. A place where there’s multiple stop signs will give you more brake cycles and you can take it easy while it cools off. For highways, what I’ve done is make sure no one is behind you or really close, then I drag my brakes for a certain amount of distance then I continue driving to let it cool. There’s so many scenarios I might make a new video describing most of them in the future. In terms of miles it takes to break in the brakes really depends how aggressive you do the methods. The more aggressive the higher the risk of uneven film transfer but time saved. The more conservative, the higher chance you get an even film transfer but takes more time.
Any suggestion guys i just changed front pads and rotors but really dont have empty road that i can bed in the new pads and rotors. Can i just drive normally for about 500 miles with easy braking?
Yes that’s quite common in busy cities. In your case like you said, be easy with the brakes and make sure when you are on a full stop, you’re giving just enough brake pressure to hold the vehicle at a stop. A more complicated way I do it is using the hand brake to take over the service brake whenever I’m stuck at a light.
@@waynesgarage8579 Ok thanks for the tip will indeed try that
How about rubbing down the rotor with some 80 grit sandpaper before bedding? I'll be switching pads a few times a year for track days and I'm not going to buy separate rotors.
80 grit sandpaper will not do anything! The rotors may seem smooth but I guarantee they are not, Also The thickness of the rotors will be different depending on where you measure them from! Reusing rotors is never a good idea!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 but these rotors have 3,000 miles on them. I want to put different pads on for 1 day at the track. I just want to try to remove any film from the other pads so I can really bed in the track pads.
I replaced my front brakes and on the driver side on my first test drive I drove to about 60km and didn’t slam the brake but did do a bit of a harsh brake to make sure everything was fine but now I’ve got a thudding happening only if I try braking at a high speed. Was not there before and it’s lightly pulling to the same side too. Only drove 10km so far so not sure if trying this bedding process will help or assume it’s a defective rotor?
I would inspect to see if the hub surface is cleaned all the way. A small amount of rust can give you just the right amount of distortion to cause what you’re feeling. Also with the “pulling”, reinspect the OPPOSITE side of the pull direction or just reinspect the whole job to see if there’s any binding or restriction in the pads, hardware, rotor itself. Be really detailed while doing so. Since you already dove quite a bit, have a good look at the rotor to see how the pad transfer is. Even on light braking all it takes is one instance of holding your brakes too hard on a stop light and that ruins the bedding process. Keep us updated on this
No shit you only did one side
@@5.43v 🤣, short and sweet. But being serious I would probably check your pins and make sure they're lubricated and also you may have a bad wheel hub, but for sure do the other side please at the same time
I initially read this as you only replacing one side at the front. After reading your comment again, and adding a comma here and there I hope you meant you replaced BOTH left and right and that the driver’s side is the issue.
My pads were OK in thickness yet my mechanic changed them by saying they are stiff and will cut rotors, is it possible?
Depends on the overall situation. Pad material like semi metallic can eat into rotors over time. First time I’ve heard of the someone using stiff as a description of brake pads tho
I have new pads and resurfaced rotors. My car was in storage and accumulated dust/rust on the rotors. Can this be fished so the steering wheel stops shaking?
I would drive it for a week and see if the rust comes off evenly and the pulsation stop on it’s own first. If that does t work and the rotor still within spec I will resurface the rotors and get a new set of brake pads. Worst come to worst get new pads and rotors. Good luck
@@waynesgarage8579 Thank you so much for the reply! Is there a cleaner you could recommend?
Cleaner as in Brake clean? Or degrease cleaner?
For brake clean I don’t have a preference in brand but for degreaser I’m currently using Purple Power from any auto part store. Simple green does the job too..
I just did my brakes and I feel like I have to depress the pedal alittle more than 50% before I even begin to stop that wasnt happening before even with my worn down pads, I would tap and it was slow down. Idk should I be concerned?
A part of it could be the brakes not fully broken in but there are possibilities of air in your system and/or installing something in the wrong position where it’s not allowing the full contact of the pad to rotor. What parts did you replace and what year make model?
I have a 2017 Ford Escape and I replaced pads, rotors and did a brake flush. They finished super quick took them like an hour to do everything which was shocking to me. When I got the car back I noticed right away so I brought it back to them but they just told me there was nothing wrong with it but I can feel a huge difference. I was thinking of taking it somewhere else to see what they say or just driving a few more miles to see it gets better. Also thank you for replying!
Post an update in a few days. Also be really easy with the brakes , I suspect they barely broke in the brakes if they were done in an hour. Probably spun the car around the block once and called it done.
Made a rookie mistake. I was tired of the squealing and replaced the OEM brake pads for my M2 Comp with Hawk performance ceramic brake pads (someone suggested for a quite drive). I neither changed the rotors nor did I resurface it. I did the basic bedding process and I still have squeaky squealing brakes. Any suggestions on what can be done here to prevent squealing?
If the pads still look relatively flat, you can still put in new rotors or resurface your old ones and then reuse those hawk pads. From my experience, hawk pads are pretty harsh on rotors and usually has noise when cold and goes away when fully warmed up.
If the pads have grooves on them from trying to mate with the old rotors you can lay a sheet/strip of sandpaper 300ish grit, on top of a flat surface. Then run both pads across the sand paper and clean them up with brake clean. Good luck
Thank you!
My was blue red hot rotors. With different pads.
Changed my pads and my steering feels loose now.
Never knew that👍
Quick question.
I just got new rotors & brakes on my car but it makes a squeaking everytime I brake like right before I come to complete stop .
Is that normal ?
In some instances yes it can happen. You can wait till your brakes is fully bedded in and see if the noise gradually goes away or you can recheck all your hardware to see if it’s nice and snug. Assuming you had new hardware kits, make sure the pad has no other directional movement other than Towards the rotor and backwards. The hardware is suppose to dampen the high frequency vibration the pad experience during braking.
I got ebc hd pads an rotors no squel
@@waynesgarage8579 Little grease behind the shims?
U just said theres a chance your mixing materials when u change brake pads without new rotors. What if i get free duralast brake pads 4 life at autozone. And everytime, i replace with the same Duralast brake pads. Would it be acceptable to not replace rotors with every brake pad change?
In that case I would resurface your rotors so you’ll have a flat surface for your new warrantied pads to bed on.
@@waynesgarage8579 I went 150,000 miles in an acura integra. Just ony changing the brake pads from autozone. My theory was, if the steering wheel didn't shake, ur good to go. Just recently I am hearing about people replacing brakes and rotors. I laugh cuz i never did. Only resurfaced it 2x when the steering wheel shook at the shop. Also I hear you can use a electric palm sander to resurface them yourself.
I’ve gone thru what you have also where I just replace pads and lucked out that everything went well, but understand that in a shop environment the business owner can’t take that kind of risk to do that for all customers that come in and risk a comeback. So sticking with normal industry practice is the safer bet by resurfacing or replacing the rotors.
@@waynesgarage8579 True about the liability part. My bmw has 190,000 miles. Finally I am hearing squeling in the rear. Front/Rear have visible lips at the top and bottom because of the center being worn. What is the worst case scenario that would happen to me if I continued riding on the never changed rotors with the lip probably less material than safe?
Definitely less metal to absorb and dissipate heat, and with that I can see the excessive heat causing poor brake performance via brake fade or pads getting baked onto your rotor leaving imprints. BMW and most European cars tends to have rotors that wear down with the pads which cause the noticeable lip.
God explanation, new rotors and new brakes needed a time to stop smelling like burning? I had Only drive for 3 miles going from 45 to 0 really smooth, 10 to 15 times , after how long this smell go away, no squeaking just the smell
There’s still anti rust inside the vents of the rotors so you’ll smell that for a few days. Keep monitoring the evenness of the brake pad transfer and be mindful of unnecessary brake pressure while the brakes are hot. I usually use my parking brake handle to hold my car in stop lights so I can let the pressure off the brakes. Not required but just my preference.
@@waynesgarage8579 gracias , I over read this topic, but y check 3 times during install, is time to relax, trust my self and let the parts do their job.
@@waynesgarage8579 The smell’s from not removing the anti rust protective layer with brake cleaner. Yes?
Mild misinformation; early on, when the rotor still has cross hatching, this is somewhat the case, as the hatching will rip away and hold the material of the pads. But as the hatching wears away, you're using more and more of the actual metal as your friction surface, until it's worn down to a finish that matches whatever sandpaper grain the pads would be considered to be, then it's all pad to metal, minus some small imperfections in the rotor finish where pad material can still build up a tiny bit.
Resurfaced rotors are the same deal, it looks visually different from a bedded rotor because the finishing pass of the surfacer is a different, coarser grit material than the pad material, which then gets worn back into the shinier finish from the pads.
When it comes to overheating the brake system,cyou were right about the cause and effects, but wrong again because you tried to loop it in with this pad material theory; The pad can leave material on the rotors in an overheat condition, as you said, and you will get a warped-like effect from the pad material, but that's because the pad-on-pad material friction is different from the pad-on-metal friction, not because more pad material on the rotor equals more friction; the pad material buildup on the rotor actually *reduces* friction, as on a microscopic scale the buildup comes free during a pass and acts kind of like a thrust bearing until it is worn back away to be pad on metal.
Here's my take on brake service:
If your rotors have a visible ridge of rust on either side of the pad zone, they need resurfacing or replacing. If they are warped, you'll know it and they need replacing. if there's a spot of buildup but no warpage, you can try to clean the buildup off with brake clean, but if you can't then you might want to get them resurfaced. However, if you have no signs of these issues, they are perfectly fine to just go ahead and reuse, as long as you don't contaminate therotors or pads with oils or something, if there is any contamination either side, brake clean it until you are reasonably confident it's clean again.
I wonder how many people got scared into buying new rotors with their pads over this video...
Depends on what pads you buy. Akebono requires no brake bedding. They have a video on TH-cam about this.
so u tell me that every time i change the pads i need to change the rotor too?
Hello Kopko, Replacing your rotors will be more desired but at the minimum resurface your rotors.
Be aware that after market rotors are sometimes skimpy on the metal so that’s when it’s best to resurface over replacing.
There are also situations where the rotors are very expensive so resurfacing is more cost efficient.
I do not recommend just changing the pads alone.
Depending on the car you drive really changing rotors and pads is a pretty simple job and not too expensive. I would say its a 3/10 dificulty
What about if the new break pads replacement is the same ones as the old ones? Would rotor need to be replaced, resurfaced or neither?
@@Aztecatl7 wait i wanna know this too
I thought Bedding the brakes was something we should do. ......so bedding is a bad thing? ... I tend to use 2-3 "let offs" when doing 55mph coming to a stop. and often will slip into neutral at some redlights just to let off the pedal for a few seconds.
The black spots weaken the structure because there made out of a type of cast iron
I see what he's trying to say, but when he tries to explain it deeper he makes it sound more confusing.
I just got all 4 brake assembly done,rotor brake ect!!! All 3 are good except the front right that does a funny clickimg or rubbimg sound under 15 km/h only for 1 or 2 second then stop!!! Does not happen wen braking
Was it your axle
you should see the face my friends make when i ask them where did they bed in their new brake pads.
I broke mine in in front of a school .-.
I figured out why it's important to break your rotors in you surface hardens the steel making it harder the same as making a knife or a sword you want the outside metal to be super hard to take abuse and remain in its shape anyways surface hardening your brake rotors they will last a lot longer and they get a good even wear if you if they are unhardened by not breaking in men you get grooves where the where the metal is soft and it can be chewed out by the break pad
No need to do this with Akebono pads.
Or you could use brake cleaner to clean the rotor, then do some heavy braking when replacing the pads
That's one way to warp your disc🤦♀️😂
@@JDMz Are you saying that heavy braking warps the rotor? You might want to start buying better rotors then.
@@segredosdotiosam9989 Yeah no without betting in, you get warped discs.
Dont do it like that man.
@@totalmadnesman Always done it this way. Never warped a good disk. If the disk warps is because it was too thin and it needed to be replaced
@@totalmadnesman they dont warp... its uneven pad deposit rates causing that feeling 💯💯
Soooooooo.... That's why my brakes screaming like banshees??? Damn .. wish i've seen this video first (diy dude here LMAO)
Nice editing at 2:27
Been a tech for many many years. Have pad slapped many many vehicles. Have never had one have adverse effects. No noises. No loose of performance. Nothing.
Spreading bunch of lies on here
Same here. I've been doing brake jobs on my vehicles for over 40 years and when I was young, I was lucky to afford the pads, much less rotors and drums every time. Don't let em go metal to metal and pad slaps will work for y'all in most cases. I just did front rotors and pads on my '17 F250 yesterday. The right side, inside pad got to metal on metal, so had to do rotors too. I've never done a brake bedding except on my wifes Nissan with ceramic brakes and they still squeaked!!!!! I'll never use ceramic brakes again!! Even my mechanic buddy hates em. They also wear out the rotors quicker. Keep livin' and learnin' y'all!!
What if u didnt bed them for like 2 weeks
You mean you didn’t drive the car for two weeks after the brake job?
@@waynesgarage8579 no drove for 2 weeks without stopping on the dime . Just regular breaking
In that case, you pretty much did a slow break in process. If you have no issues with your brakes now then you’re good and can drive normally. Why it’s important to do so right after a brake job is because it’s very vulnerable to have an uneven pad transfer to the rotors. It doesn’t happen all the time but even if it’s 1 out of 10 jobs, it’s not a chance a shop will take for a comeback.
@@waynesgarage8579 Good to know . Yea i resurfaced my rotors and installed the gs-1 g loc brakes and the still rub its been 3 weeks now. Sounds lile sand paper and now even when im not breaking . They make a clicking noise like their loose .The pad film didnt transfer to well onto rotors . Going to have my mechanic check it out .
By chance you changed the hardware also? They play a role in securing your pads so they slightly retract the way they should when you release the brakes. Also depending on your pad material (ceramic, semi metallic, organic) the film transfer will be different shade. There’s a chance it has already transferred over but you just don’t see it thru the naked eye. Lastly prep work (cleaning/ lube/hardware orientation/ worn hardware, etc) before assembling the brakes is greatly ignored in my experience of watching others work. Can’t know for a fact unless the job is taken apart to inspect.
Why would you have to change the rotors every time you change pads? Makes no sense and unnecessary to do so every pad change. Only as needed
Either resurface your rotors if they’re still within spec or get new rotors. The idea is to have a good machined flat surface for your new pads to ride on. Some might get away with just slapping on new pads but there’s always that chance of a comeback in the shop. Decision is ultimately up to the owner of the vehicle.
If yoi have brake pedal pulsation... trust me, it's a warped rotors. 😎
think i bedded mine improperly, now i gotta replace the rotors. smh
Not necessarily, sometimes you can get away with a resurfacing of your rotors. Depending how long you’ve drove on your pads you might be able to reuse them if they’re nice and flat and not grooved or tapered. Let me know how it goes
@@waynesgarage8579 will do
Not totally correct. Most of the variation of bedding depends on the pad material. Some pads do not transfer material on to the disc.
He's saying contradictory things . First it's the pad that's breaking in , then the dust actually comes from the rotor. He can't make his mind up .
All these are not making any sense, change rotor only if this worn out.
If you are looking for ways to bed in your new pads and new rotors this is not the video you want. This video describes what occurs when brake parts are bedded in but it doesn't tell you how to go about doing it. Thumbs down
Delet this
dislike... science fiction
This is the stupidest explanation I have ever heard about brakes.
lol Such bullshit. So the new pad deposits a "film" on the rotor? Then that film stays there for the life of the rotor? The rotor losses to material and magically keeps this film? Every seen rotors after it has rained on a hot day? They are already rusting bud.
The film of pad material is deposited on the surface of the rotor and as you use your brakes it scraps off that layer while depositing another layer. The cycle continues and you’re left with brake dust around your wheels over time.
Wait a minute there Wayne. I thought we was just taught that its the brake pad material thats bedded if done properly onto the rotors is whats stopping the vehicle, not the brake pad against the metal rotor surface. Instead Its the scrapping off any of the old bedding fim and then laying of new brake bedding film is how your brakes work correctly and of which causes brake dust around the brakes. Im confused just how a brake rotor needs to be bedded with brake film is important if your scrapping the bedding off but than replacing it again back onto the rotor is needed to for brakes to work the right way? He might be right...you all are full of shit, lol! Brake pads clamping onto scrapping against a hard fine coarse metal rotor makes more sense causing brake dust as in like say...wood dust. Gee wouldnt brake pad against brake pad be the better bedding of brake film and so the best braking power?...is what you all are basically saying, Right?
Exactly!! My '10 Challenger might sit there for 3 weeks or more until I drive it and the rotors always have surface rust on them, it's inevitable.
Sounds great when an antisemitic person does anything, but let any other person come up with the same thing it will be repercussions
Sorry video switched
So what im supposed to get new rotors along with pads?! Ive never bedded in my pads. Never had issues
If you have sufficient pad left on your old pads and you didn't go metal to metal, you can likely keep your old rotors and just put new like in kind pads. Meaning if you have semi-metallic now, don't switch to ceramic. Personally, I will never use ceramic pads again.