Great video best video i have viewed on adjusting master cylinder to booster as i am converting my booster /master cylinder on an old english classic car here in UK to a speedway motors / wilwood setup your very well explained video fills in another piece of the puzzle Thanks keep up the good work on these vids
Awesome video! Thanks for posting it along with the link to the tool you used. I need to adjust my brake booster on an 86 BRII. You just made that a lot more straight forward any guess work.
Just changed out my brake booster and now i can't get the master cylinder to slide back in place because of the a pin sticking out too far on the booster..can it be adjusted it inward towards the cab?
Make sure the pedal is all the way in the up position. That is often an issue if there is not a spring that holds the pedal in the up position. Beyond that, many brake rods are adjustable from the underside of the dash - largely depends on make and model.
@@AllisonCustoms thx for responding turns out I received an inaccurate part but it was my fault first time doing my booster..once i got the correct part took like 15-20 minutes to complete fairly easy job
My 2004 Dodge Dakota is adjusted close, but I ordered this tool and unfortunately the master cylinder has a shaft that protrudes into the booster. This basically makes it impossible to use it. The tool bottoms out on the shaft and can't go down far enough to hit the spot that the master cylinder and brake booster mate together.
Maybe add a short piece of rod or a small block of a known length in to the booster to help get your measurement. Sometimes I have also found using the tool backwards (booster side to master and vice versa) will let me get my measurements. It doesn’t really matter which way it is pointed, as long as you stay consistent. Hope that helps.
Would a brake booster pin that is too short cause the pedal to not return all the way after depressing? I have to use the top of my foot to pull the pedal back out to starting position. Thanks
@@AllisonCustomsActually a lot of shop manuals, not Chiltons but the real Mccoy made by the manufacturer say that once the car starts the booster rod changes a bit (not sure if in or out) due to vacuum so the measuring should be done with the car on, Ive always done it with the car off and never had any problems whatsoever, just throwing out there all possible scenarios to this operation, makes for interesting conversation, sounds to me the amount the rod changes while the car is on is probably negligible. Great video BTW,on the subject of using calipers and all that, on my 91 Mustang which i also have the original shop manual to it they actually use one of these H tools like you have here (thats what i call it cause of the shape of it) and actually give you the measurements to build your own if you so choose,i thought that was pretty cool being that manual is 33 years old, guess the techs at Ford back then didn't wanna be bothered with some pesky calipers,lol
That is interesting on the old Ford manual giving instructions on how to make one. It would be easy, and probably accurate enough even out of a good plywood.??? As for starting the engine to get a vacuum going, I’ve always assumed that was what the small gap was there for? That with a vacuum the booster would push the rod out ever so slightly. I agree, getting each other to consider different ways of doing a job is what keeps this whole process a learning environment!
I thought the adjustment was on the brake pedal side of the booster. I adjusted the threaded rod going from the brake pedal into the booster.. how do I undo that?
There is also adjustment on the pedal side. That is used to set pedal height and pedal travel, it should be set to take up most (but not all) of the slack between when the pedal is at the top of its travel and just starting to move the plunger on the booster.
If that plunger isn't set up to spec can that cause your master cylinder cap to leak I have replaced my master cylinder a few times and I can't stop the cap from leaking 1967 Chevy Camaro replace original master cylinder with a disc front and back master cylinder from CPP
Hey, would this also apply if converting from front manual brakes in my 76 cj7 to front power disc brakes using a YJ wrangler booster? Thanks for the video
Yes, absolutely. If you don't get that distance between the push rod and the booster set correctly you can have issues with braking. Either brakes are "grabby" (no gap at all and brakes are constantly being applied) or "sloppy" to big of a gap and you are never getting full brake pressure. Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍 quick question I've got a Kia Amanti and it's got a huge brake booster which means very very soft brakes. Is there any way to firm up the brake pedal? What if I modify the vacuum line to the booster? Any thoughts? Thank you very much
Not sure - I really know very little about the Amanti and it's braking system. I suspect you have Anti-lock brakes and possibly traction control. Anything you do to effect the "brake feel", may adversely effect the braking of your car. Sorry, I know that isn't much help.
vdoublenickel Application 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo V8 5.0, Very low brake pedal. Replaced MC, Booster, Rear brake shoes, drums, wheel cylinder, Front brake rubber line, calipers and pads. Still very low brake pedal. Bought your handy tool to check master cylinder rod clearance/distance. Distance to booster shaft. It is within limits. I suspect the booster rod length. Any suggestions out there.
My guess would be either the booster rod to pedal length is wrong or the rod is attached to the pedal in the wrong location - manual brake pedal location vs power brake pedal location. There are also a few manufacturers/models that used completely different pedals for a power brake car vs manual brake car.
Thanks for the video. Question. I swapped my cj7 jeep front manual drum brakes to disc brakes. I used a YJ power brake booster and MC but the piston rod is slightly longer on the YJ booster than on the original manual manual brake MC. Would you know how I would adjust the rod? Is it the same way as you demonstrated? I wasn't sure how to make it work so I softened up the pedal (dropped it) but now the pedal is too soft and I have to pump it to get it to stop the jeep. Thanks for your help!
Sounds like the brake switch is not working correctly. I would suggest checking that the switch is installed correctly, if it is - then remove it and test it. You may have a bad switch - “New just means it hasn’t been used before.”
Best video on brake booster pin adjustment on youtube. Thank you!
Great video best video i have viewed on adjusting master cylinder to booster as i am converting my booster /master cylinder on an old english classic car here in UK to a speedway motors / wilwood
setup your very well explained video fills in another piece of the puzzle Thanks keep up the good work on these vids
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Awesome video! Thanks for posting it along with the link to the tool you used. I need to adjust my brake booster on an 86 BRII. You just made that a lot more straight forward any guess work.
Happy to help!
Thank you for this video. Was very helpful.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Thanks
Thank you! I appreciate you letting me know you found it useful.
Thanks
You’re Welcome!
Thanks for the info
Just changed out my brake booster and now i can't get the master cylinder to slide back in place because of the a pin sticking out too far on the booster..can it be adjusted it inward towards the cab?
Make sure the pedal is all the way in the up position. That is often an issue if there is not a spring that holds the pedal in the up position. Beyond that, many brake rods are adjustable from the underside of the dash - largely depends on make and model.
@@AllisonCustoms thx for responding turns out I received an inaccurate part but it was my fault first time doing my booster..once i got the correct part took like 15-20 minutes to complete fairly easy job
@@ermac9647
I’m glad it was something simple, even it is a pain when you make the error.
What would cause the car to lose pedal when engine is running. I have all new wilwood 4w disks
power brakes or manual? No vacuum on the power brake booster?
My 2004 Dodge Dakota is adjusted close, but I ordered this tool and unfortunately the master cylinder has a shaft that protrudes into the booster.
This basically makes it impossible to use it.
The tool bottoms out on the shaft and can't go down far enough to hit the spot that the master cylinder and brake booster mate together.
Maybe add a short piece of rod or a small block of a known length in to the booster to help get your measurement. Sometimes I have also found using the tool backwards (booster side to master and vice versa) will let me get my measurements. It doesn’t really matter which way it is pointed, as long as you stay consistent.
Hope that helps.
My master cylinder and brake booster are too long/short to use the adjustment tools that are commonly sold.
That means you get to do it the old fashioned way 😄 - get your calipers ready 👍
Good luck, it’s actually not to bad. Thanks for watching!
Would a brake booster pin that is too short cause the pedal to not return all the way after depressing? I have to use the top of my foot to pull the pedal back out to starting position. Thanks
It is possible, but you should also check to see if your particular vehicle has a pedal return spring that is weak.
does the booster need to be under vacuum for the measurement?
No, we want to make our measurements with the system at rest.
@@AllisonCustomsActually a lot of shop manuals, not Chiltons but the real Mccoy made by the manufacturer say that once the car starts the booster rod changes a bit (not sure if in or out) due to vacuum so the measuring should be done with the car on, Ive always done it with the car off and never had any problems whatsoever, just throwing out there all possible scenarios to this operation, makes for interesting conversation, sounds to me the amount the rod changes while the car is on is probably negligible.
Great video BTW,on the subject of using calipers and all that, on my 91 Mustang which i also have the original shop manual to it they actually use one of these H tools like you have here (thats what i call it cause of the shape of it) and actually give you the measurements to build your own if you so choose,i thought that was pretty cool being that manual is 33 years old, guess the techs at Ford back then didn't wanna be bothered with some pesky calipers,lol
That is interesting on the old Ford manual giving instructions on how to make one. It would be easy, and probably accurate enough even out of a good plywood.???
As for starting the engine to get a vacuum going, I’ve always assumed that was what the small gap was there for? That with a vacuum the booster would push the rod out ever so slightly. I agree, getting each other to consider different ways of doing a job is what keeps this whole process a learning environment!
I thought the adjustment was on the brake pedal side of the booster. I adjusted the threaded rod going from the brake pedal into the booster.. how do I undo that?
There is also adjustment on the pedal side. That is used to set pedal height and pedal travel, it should be set to take up most (but not all) of the slack between when the pedal is at the top of its travel and just starting to move the plunger on the booster.
@@AllisonCustoms Tysm!!
If that plunger isn't set up to spec can that cause your master cylinder cap to leak I have replaced my master cylinder a few times and I can't stop the cap from leaking 1967 Chevy Camaro replace original master cylinder with a disc front and back master cylinder from CPP
You are correct. It can also damage some of the seals internally if you are over extending the plunger in the MC.
87 mustang. rear disc conversion now have a hard pedal. Will adjusting booster help?
Possibly, but did you change the master cylinder and proportioning valve to match your new setup?
added proportioning valve gutted prop valve, nothing done yet to master cylinder
Excellent subject and you covered it well.
Thank you!
Hey, would this also apply if converting from front manual brakes in my 76 cj7 to front power disc brakes using a YJ wrangler booster? Thanks for the video
Yes, absolutely. If you don't get that distance between the push rod and the booster set correctly you can have issues with braking. Either brakes are "grabby" (no gap at all and brakes are constantly being applied) or "sloppy" to big of a gap and you are never getting full brake pressure.
Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍 quick question I've got a Kia Amanti and it's got a huge brake booster which means very very soft brakes. Is there any way to firm up the brake pedal? What if I modify the vacuum line to the booster? Any thoughts? Thank you very much
Not sure - I really know very little about the Amanti and it's braking system. I suspect you have Anti-lock brakes and possibly traction control. Anything you do to effect the "brake feel", may adversely effect the braking of your car.
Sorry, I know that isn't much help.
@@AllisonCustoms nice video we're can I get the tool to adjust my booster my name is Keith thanks
@@AllisonCustoms I'm sorry my email is Chevynova498@gmail.com
@@keithallen3505 There is a link in the video description.
hello, what is the name of that tool? purchase link?
In the description
Amazon Link for Measurement Tool: amzn.to/2u2anMC
This is an Amazon Associate link.
vdoublenickel Application 1978 Chevy Monte Carlo V8 5.0, Very low brake pedal. Replaced MC, Booster, Rear brake shoes, drums, wheel cylinder, Front brake rubber line, calipers and pads. Still very low brake pedal. Bought your handy tool to check master cylinder rod clearance/distance. Distance to booster shaft. It is within limits. I suspect the booster rod length. Any suggestions out there.
My guess would be either the booster rod to pedal length is wrong or the rod is attached to the pedal in the wrong location - manual brake pedal location vs power brake pedal location. There are also a few manufacturers/models that used completely different pedals for a power brake car vs manual brake car.
Thanks for the video.
Question.
I swapped my cj7 jeep front manual drum brakes to disc brakes. I used a YJ power brake booster and MC but the piston rod is slightly longer on the YJ booster than on the original manual manual brake MC.
Would you know how I would adjust the rod? Is it the same way as you demonstrated?
I wasn't sure how to make it work so I softened up the pedal (dropped it) but now the pedal is too soft and I have to pump it to get it to stop the jeep.
Thanks for your help!
I don’t know specifically, but IF it is adjustable, it will be something similar. Many stock systems are not adjustable.
Can someone please make a video with out the cars revving beginning thing? You’re not all badasses.
I’m sure someone not badass could do it 😂. Let’s Go Brandon
On a 97 silverado, with new master and booster and brake switch, do the break lights remail on. There is no adjustment on the booster or peddle.
Sounds like the brake switch is not working correctly. I would suggest checking that the switch is installed correctly, if it is - then remove it and test it. You may have a bad switch - “New just means it hasn’t been used before.”
Yeah could be a bad or sticking brake switch or broken spring on the brake peddle
You used backwards
No ….he used it correctly
No I really didn’t.