Dude, you saved me a boat load of time and money. I couldnt figure out what the problem was with my brakes. I was about to put in hydro assist brakes. I did not realize there was an adjustment there. Thanks
Amazon sells a tool, $20, that can streamline the process. Most manufacturers have a spec, my 2000 Town Car has a clearance recommendation of .23 to .245 inch. approximately 1/5 to 1/4 inch.
Thanks for this bro. After three full system flushes assuming it to be air in the system, gonna try this out. I got my truck out of the shop with a new booster/master combo and drove home with stuck pistons. Took it apart to rebuild the calipers while i'm at it and ever since, brakes have been super spongy. Too dangerous to drive even so it's been sitting. Probably in my efforts to unfreeze the brakes, I have backed out the push rod too much.
The clearance is very minimal I believe. Such as for my 93 mazda mx6. It calls for a 1/16" of clearance space. So that there is no preload or in your case no solid contact
Flush the system, bleed the brakes then check the “specs” per manufacturer on the gap between pushrod and master cylinder. Use a depth gauge, or caliper to get a precise measurement! There should be a very slight gap (like .020” or something) so there is no drag on breaks. Then move to other components.....
the push rod should not hit; it needs to have about a sixteenth/5 thous air gap if you use one of those H-adjustment tools, you still need to have a small clearance to prevent the pushrod from keeping the brake applied and dragging, wearing down your pads and rotors. and holding back the vehicle/overheating the brakes.
You should take your measurements to the mount surface. The depth of the piston from the mounting surface should match how far the pushrod extends beyond the mounting surface.
Well I seen that adjustment out enough to cause the brakes to be applied as soon as the master cylinder is bolted up .I want there to be a bit of clearance between the rod and master cylinder. I going to replace the vacuum booster with a hydroboost on my dodge ram. I never been impressed with vacuum booster brakes
I have the same problem with my Samurai. I rebuilt the drums, put on new calipers in front and rotors all around, new master cylinder and power booster. Brakes have been sponge since. I bled the brakes 3 or 4 times but still the same. I will readjust the pushrod and see if I can finally get my ride on the road. Thanks for the video.
Could be the push rod but also make sure the calipers in the front have the bleeder at the top too. They’ll never get properly bled if the bleeder is at the bottom. I’ve done that before not thinking and had to switch sides. Good luck
There is a $15 tool on Amazon called a Power Brake Booster Pushrod Pin Adjustment Tool that takes about 2 minutes to set that clearance properly. Don't ask why I know know this.
Great video i myself like learning new things and fixing my own vehicles. See a lot of people giving you flack because you were open and honest. How do you learn something you dont know trial and error. I have a spoongy brake pedal gonna do some checks on my master cylinder make sure its good and if it is i may order the tool to try this so i can adust it myself. My booster looks like it has been replaced at some point so an adjustment maybe warranted. Keep up the good work dont let negative comments beat ya up learn from them. Thank you for your insight very good info…
I can’t remember if my micrometer battery was low or if I couldn’t get it straight on. There was a reason I didn’t use it but that definitely would have been the way to go
@@jtmoffroad 99% of micrometers still have the markings on the side to be able to use instead of the digital part. You just can't get down to .0000001 you should still get it to .0001
@@louispeters2105 Calipers (vernier, dial, digital) and a flat thing will work. Mic's would make it a tedious process though I see where you are coming from.
Great video.I’ll now know to check this when Im replacing my booster. The screwdriver length measurement and the feel of the pedal method seems to have got you setup.
After searching the internet it looks like there are tons of people that forget about this adjustment. Mine is out too far and allowing my brakes to heat up and apply themselves because the fluid cannot return to the master cylinder.
if too loose, adjust the push rod out and leave a small gap to allow for play (0.02-0.05 mm depending on specs); if it's out too much, it will cause brakes to drag.
Removed my brake booster on my 409 impala (1963) to paint it (just had it replaced 6 months ago) mechanic told me it wouldn't rust (obviously he didn't want to do that. So I take the booster off paint it and put it back on and now I have no power brakes. I tried to adjust it but still no brake booster effect. Sometimes you just can't win.
Have a chevy pick up very, very little brake pedal about 1/5 of a peddle 2003 model the new booster we put on has no adjustment any ideals out there as to what to do to get more peddle?
Yes I had the same problem with the light staying on and alot of play on my pedal. My adjustment for a 1970 Monte Carlo (A body) was on the other side that is an adjustment toward the pedal. Same piece the adjustment was on the other side of the rod.
Nice video. I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra SR5. I had to replace my brake booster because it had a leak inside the cab area. I purchased an aftermarket booster from Autozone but believe it might have been defective. Ever had air coming out between cylinder and booster? I got a code for running lean and it's all I could find that might be causing the problem. Do you think it's better to get an OEM part? What are your thoughts?
Honestly couldn’t tell you. Garage had that insulation when I bought the place. It definitely does keep a good temperature separation from the garage and the attic space
Changed out master cylinder and brakes are still mushy! could this be the issue ive been looking for the whole time? thanks. brakes still enact but pedal isnt firm at all.
I had hell my self so I repeat what I been told . Wheel cylinders can pull in air and cause problems. I been told to Clamp off each one and see if the problem goes away
Before you do all that, flush out the brake lines and refill/rebleed entire system. Fresh fluid gives you that firm feel, fluid may be old, have water, corrosion, fluid deterioration etc. You normally don't need to adust the pushrod unless its an entirely new set up. Some people think that brake fluid stops you and you have to replenish to keep you stopping? Whaat! 😱 These same folk are a pint low on blinker fluid...
Did you match the numbers on the power booster which are located on the end that connected to the brake pedal inside the truck? There are several boosters for that vehicle.
Ughhh crap... sorry to hear about that... only thing I can think of besides buying a new booster is if there is still a decent amount of thread you may be able to use two nuts together on it. One would be a stop nut for the other one so you could still turn the push rod. If it were me though, I would just buy a new brake booster or see if I could return the one with the broken nut for a new one. Whatever you do, be safe!!!
jtmoffroad thank you, what does brake dragging mean or lock up? Is that something that can be noticed as your testing the truck? Or is it a situation that can’t be undone ?
It would be like your applying the brakes when you aren’t. You shouldn’t have to make any adjustment to your push rod unless you put in a new brake booster. I just tested it out in my driveway to make sure nothing dragged. I made very small adjustments and measured to make sure I was going to have any issues
jtmoffroad only reason why I’m interested in adjusting the rod, is b.c on my bronco I’ve changed all brake components and pads and my truck is lifted with big ol tires and my pedal feels very squishy, so I was thinking adjusting will make pedal feel more normal. I’ve bleed all areas, used manual, gravity methods and pedal still feels like crap. So I saw your video that gave me an idea to try.
When you changed your brakes did you change the calipers? Do you have the bleeders at the top? If they’re at the bottom you can’t get all the air out. I’ve done that before
Did you ever figure it out? Just had this issue on my sonata. Spent almost 10 hours vacuum bleeding the system and finally got my pedal back. Perhaps air got into your system somehow?
Greatly appreciate the video. But just want to say, changing the camera angle at 2:00, so as to not be able to see what is being worked on, is quite unhelpful. Thanks again.
I have changed the rear brakes and now my pedal is too high...only a small amount of travel... will try adjusting the pushrod but there is also a pedal adjustment inside at the pedal
I converted my 76 cj7 jeep manual drum brakes to power disc brakes (brake conversion kit off ebay) and a YJ booster and mc with proportion valve off a YJ wrangler. I had to lower the brake pedal as the piston rod was too long and didn't match up with the brake pedal. Problem is, I have soft brakes. If I pump the brakes, it gets harder and I eventually stop. Brakes are always the same. Soft until I pump. Then hardens up and I stop.. Scary.. Any idea what is wrong? Also~~Can I adjust the piston rod to shorten it so the pedal won't be so low and would that fix the soft pedal issue? Thanks for the video... Not only educational but also funny...
mannyman211 sorry the angle of the camera didn’t show very well. At 6:40 the angle was better. Hold the side closer to the brake booster steady, then loosen the side closer to the master cylinder. Lefty loosy, righty righty.
Correct. That’s why I kept making very minor adjustments and testing in my garage. Really you should use a digital caliper but the batteries in mine were dead.
I just had a mechanic change my booster then my brakes started locking up ..they said the push rod was adjusted and i need a new abs control module ..Ughhh just spent $480 to have the booster installed and now my cars worse then before..can't drive it now with the brakes locked
Dang!! I’m no where near a professional or worthy of giving out advice but I would be curious if the push rod is causing the brakes to drag... sorry to hear about your issue!
Having the same problem on my modified 47 GMC with a 350. Just learned about push rod adjustment after 2 years! Who knew? Anyway GM says 1/16 of an inch. I have ordered a digital caliper on Amazon for about 40 dollars. If you want to learn how to measure there is a New Zealander on here that goes thru the procedure in mm but you can translate to GM.th-cam.com/video/rYYzPIGoxfY/w-d-xo.html Most mechanics or brake shops have no clue!
Glad you were able to figure that out! I have a digital caliper but can’t remember why I didnt use it. Either the battery was dead or I didn’t have enough room to get the caliper in place to find the depth. Bet that 350 is fun!! Thanks for watching!
Unable to see what he is actually doing most of the time. No way to measure it? Use an H-tool instead of trial-and-error. This is a rather irresponsible demo.
Another one who doesn’t really know what he’s doin. Just winging it. Read a book fellow there is a procedure to do this. Your gonna need to replace the studs and nut now you had them off so many times they are wore out.
I appreciate your comment. My videos aren’t how to’s just to clarify. Just a guy trying to do stuff himself, learn along the way, and hopefully people can learn from my mistakes (by reading the comments) because I sure make a lot of those. The comments are helpful cause it helps me grow in the long run as well. Thanks Dean!
Richard Harvey everyone has “never done something before” the first time they did it. It’s all a matter of doing research, educating yourself, and taking extra precautions to be safe.
Everyone makes choices in life. I’m not sure making a “how to” video without fully understanding the implications is such a great idea. Cosmetic stuff, sure, ok, but brakes are a complicated and critical part of a car. You didn’t even cover proportioning valves, or the $$ it could cost someone if they mess up the ABS components. Just sayin’ ...
You don't have anyway to measure it, then you shouldn't be messing with it. Another video that should be taken down. poke and hope methods should not be allowed when working with brake systems.
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude, you saved me a boat load of time and money. I couldnt figure out what the problem was with my brakes. I was about to put in hydro assist brakes. I did not realize there was an adjustment there. Thanks
Amazon sells a tool, $20, that can streamline the process. Most manufacturers have a spec, my 2000 Town Car has a clearance recommendation of .23 to .245 inch. approximately 1/5 to 1/4 inch.
Had this issue ordered one from rock auto put it on my 04 jeep had no brakes at all adjusted it some got brakes adjusted more had better pedal.
Thanks for this bro. After three full system flushes assuming it to be air in the system, gonna try this out. I got my truck out of the shop with a new booster/master combo and drove home with stuck pistons. Took it apart to rebuild the calipers while i'm at it and ever since, brakes have been super spongy. Too dangerous to drive even so it's been sitting. Probably in my efforts to unfreeze the brakes, I have backed out the push rod too much.
The clearance is very minimal I believe. Such as for my 93 mazda mx6. It calls for a 1/16" of clearance space. So that there is no preload or in your case no solid contact
The shop changed every component. Not the booster and my calipers are getting suck
Thanks. I wish u had kept the camera on the adjustment area as you were adjusting. Thanks again
Really!!!!
Flush the system, bleed the brakes then check the “specs” per manufacturer on the gap between pushrod and master cylinder. Use a depth gauge, or caliper to get a precise measurement! There should be a very slight gap (like .020” or something) so there is no drag on breaks. Then move to other components.....
the push rod should not hit; it needs to have about a sixteenth/5 thous air gap if you use one of those H-adjustment tools, you still need to have a small clearance to prevent the pushrod from keeping the brake applied and dragging, wearing down your pads and rotors. and holding back the vehicle/overheating the brakes.
You should take your measurements to the mount surface. The depth of the piston from the mounting surface
should match how far the pushrod extends beyond the mounting surface.
Well I seen that adjustment out enough to cause the brakes to be applied as soon as the master cylinder is bolted up .I want there to be a bit of clearance between the rod and master cylinder. I going to replace the vacuum booster with a hydroboost on my dodge ram. I never been impressed with vacuum booster brakes
This is a guess job, could end up with brake drag. They sell a tool to properly adjust the push rod clearance.
Thanks for the video. Having my own battle with my brakes dragging. My push rod is not adjustable. I did order the fancy tool. We will see.
Thanks for the awesome video. I changed my booster and master cylinder last year. I'm betting this is the final adjustment.
More than likely. Thanks for the feedback! Good luck and be safe!
I miss that jeep 😢 I've still got my 93 and I don't know how I could live without it
I have the same problem with my Samurai. I rebuilt the drums, put on new calipers in front and rotors all around, new master cylinder and power booster. Brakes have been sponge since. I bled the brakes 3 or 4 times but still the same. I will readjust the pushrod and see if I can finally get my ride on the road. Thanks for the video.
Could be the push rod but also make sure the calipers in the front have the bleeder at the top too. They’ll never get properly bled if the bleeder is at the bottom. I’ve done that before not thinking and had to switch sides. Good luck
Same boat
There is a $15 tool on Amazon called a Power Brake Booster Pushrod Pin Adjustment Tool that takes about 2 minutes to set that clearance properly. Don't ask why I know know this.
some booster doesn't have that, so you have to use a wedge(after driving for a while you have to take it out, nickel worked for me
Great video i myself like learning new things and fixing my own vehicles. See a lot of people giving you flack because you were open and honest. How do you learn something you dont know trial and error. I have a spoongy brake pedal gonna do some checks on my master cylinder make sure its good and if it is i may order the tool to try this so i can adust it myself. My booster looks like it has been replaced at some point so an adjustment maybe warranted. Keep up the good work dont let negative comments beat ya up learn from them. Thank you for your insight very good info…
Use a micrometer measure distance. Take in consideration of counter sink. U want to have push almost touching the gap less than 1 mm
I can’t remember if my micrometer battery was low or if I couldn’t get it straight on. There was a reason I didn’t use it but that definitely would have been the way to go
Dial caliper and steel ruler
..
@@jtmoffroad 99% of micrometers still have the markings on the side to be able to use instead of the digital part. You just can't get down to .0000001 you should still get it to .0001
@@louispeters2105 Calipers (vernier, dial, digital) and a flat thing will work. Mic's would make it a tedious process though I see where you are coming from.
Great video.I’ll now know to check this when Im replacing my booster. The screwdriver length measurement and the feel of the pedal method seems to have got you setup.
Measuring is best but it worked for me. Just be safe!
Dial caliper and steel ruler...
That booster will not keep your brake pad drag. Plus you can use a 1/4” racket with a 7 mm socket to turn that adjustment end in or out.
After searching the internet it looks like there are tons of people that forget about this adjustment. Mine is out too far and allowing my brakes to heat up and apply themselves because the fluid cannot return to the master cylinder.
Just did this on a 71 ford, the rod in the booster wasnt adjustable but the rod coming off the pedal is,.
Some are like that
First back the pin way out so you can feel it’s too far , then work it back one turn at a time until the master seats .
When they are loose, you adjust it to stick OUT more or IN more? What about if they drag?
if too loose, adjust the push rod out and leave a small gap to allow for play (0.02-0.05 mm depending on specs); if it's out too much, it will cause brakes to drag.
Removed my brake booster on my 409 impala (1963) to paint it (just had it replaced 6 months ago) mechanic told me it wouldn't rust (obviously he didn't want to do that. So I take the booster off paint it and put it back on and now I have no power brakes. I tried to adjust it but still no brake booster effect. Sometimes you just can't win.
My 88 wrangler ding the same thing I’ve changed everything I gave up on it today
Good luck!
Have a chevy pick up very, very little brake pedal about 1/5 of a peddle 2003 model the new booster we put on has no adjustment any ideals out there as to what to do to get more peddle?
I’m having the same issue right now. Changed the brakes, calipers and booster. Did you get yours fixed? What was the problem?
@@cynthia425 yes, needed a new antilock pump(leaking off pressure)
I got a new brake booster but the rod that connects to the brake pedal is too short and always keeps my brake lights on. Could this be the push rod?
Yes I had the same problem with the light staying on and alot of play on my pedal. My adjustment for a 1970 Monte Carlo (A body) was on the other side that is an adjustment toward the pedal. Same piece the adjustment was on the other side of the rod.
Nice video. I have a 2004 Toyota Tundra SR5. I had to replace my brake booster because it had a leak inside the cab area. I purchased an aftermarket booster from Autozone but believe it might have been defective. Ever had air coming out between cylinder and booster? I got a code for running lean and it's all I could find that might be causing the problem. Do you think it's better to get an OEM part? What are your thoughts?
Does the insulation on your ceiling help keep your work space warmer than just Sheetrock?
Honestly couldn’t tell you. Garage had that insulation when I bought the place. It definitely does keep a good temperature separation from the garage and the attic space
@@jtmoffroad Ceiling should really have drywall over the insulation to prevent from fires
Changed out master cylinder and brakes are still mushy! could this be the issue ive been looking for the whole time? thanks. brakes still enact but pedal isnt firm at all.
I had hell my self so I repeat what I been told . Wheel cylinders can pull in air and cause problems. I been told to Clamp off each one and see if the problem goes away
Before you do all that, flush out the brake lines and refill/rebleed entire system. Fresh fluid gives you that firm feel, fluid may be old, have water, corrosion, fluid deterioration etc. You normally don't need to adust the pushrod unless its an entirely new set up. Some people think that brake fluid stops you and you have to replenish to keep you stopping? Whaat! 😱
These same folk are a pint low on blinker fluid...
Hahaha gotta love the blinker fluid and muffler bearings!! I’m my case I definitely had to adjust my push rod with the new brake booster
Might want to hook up your Vacuum and pressure valve.
Wastes over $50 of brake fluid before i discovered it was my pushrod.
Did you match the numbers on the power booster which are located on the end that connected to the brake pedal inside the truck? There are several boosters for that vehicle.
Glad you got it fixed
Thanks! Stopping is a nice thing haha
So no need to bleed the brake system since you didn’t disconnect any brake lines right? Thats wassup!
Thanks Man - Im about to adjust mine in the morning.:)
Sounds good! Good luck! Be safe!
I just replaced the booster but the pedal link will not go in ...any idea
Pack some bread in it, hit the pedal. measure it, chuck the dough, measure it, split the difference.
Ya really did work ,TY
Extra points for persistence
Would be nice if you actually showed us what you're doing to adjust the push rod...
So i was trying to adjust mine and i accidentally broke off the nut on the tip of the pushrod used to adjust length is there anything i can do
Ughhh crap... sorry to hear about that... only thing I can think of besides buying a new booster is if there is still a decent amount of thread you may be able to use two nuts together on it. One would be a stop nut for the other one so you could still turn the push rod. If it were me though, I would just buy a new brake booster or see if I could return the one with the broken nut for a new one. Whatever you do, be safe!!!
Cool.I was wondering how to do this.
Okay so just cause I’m not very smart. The more you adjust rod out, the more your brake pedal pushes rod into the master ?
Correct be sure to measure so you don’t adjust the rod out too much otherwise you can lock up your brakes
jtmoffroad thank you, what does brake dragging mean or lock up? Is that something that can be noticed as your testing the truck? Or is it a situation that can’t be undone ?
It would be like your applying the brakes when you aren’t. You shouldn’t have to make any adjustment to your push rod unless you put in a new brake booster. I just tested it out in my driveway to make sure nothing dragged. I made very small adjustments and measured to make sure I was going to have any issues
jtmoffroad only reason why I’m interested in adjusting the rod, is b.c on my bronco I’ve changed all brake components and pads and my truck is lifted with big ol tires and my pedal feels very squishy, so I was thinking adjusting will make pedal feel more normal. I’ve bleed all areas, used manual, gravity methods and pedal still feels like crap. So I saw your video that gave me an idea to try.
When you changed your brakes did you change the calipers? Do you have the bleeders at the top? If they’re at the bottom you can’t get all the air out. I’ve done that before
Excellent video. Thanks!
5 STARS !!!!!!!!! John
So was that about 3 full turns total if you were doing quarter turns each time? What size wrench were you using?
I bled my brakes and it was nice and firm but when I turn it on today the brake pedal got soft. Help .
Did you ever figure it out? Just had this issue on my sonata. Spent almost 10 hours vacuum bleeding the system and finally got my pedal back. Perhaps air got into your system somehow?
thanks have the same problem, whil try this nxt week-end
Awesome! Hope everything went well!
Greatly appreciate the video. But just want to say, changing the camera angle at 2:00, so as to not be able to see what is being worked on, is quite unhelpful.
Thanks again.
Are you adding or subtracting push length? I have a Honda that is driving me a little nuts after changing out the master cylinder and booster
Adding length. More push rod going into the master cylinder
Jesse did u figure your honda out im having the same problems
Can't trust mechanics in my part of the woods.
Very helpful, and thanks!
I think can do some adjust on the other end of the rod
I have changed the rear brakes and now my pedal is too high...only a small amount of travel... will try adjusting the pushrod but there is also a pedal adjustment inside at the pedal
Great video
But u didn't show us that real part in camera
Good vid .. have to try it
Excelente
I converted my 76 cj7 jeep manual drum brakes to power disc brakes (brake conversion kit off ebay) and a YJ booster and mc with proportion valve off a YJ wrangler.
I had to lower the brake pedal as the piston rod was too long and didn't match up with the brake pedal.
Problem is, I have soft brakes.
If I pump the brakes, it gets harder and I eventually stop. Brakes are always the same. Soft until I pump. Then hardens up and I stop..
Scary..
Any idea what is wrong?
Also~~Can I adjust the piston rod to shorten it so the pedal won't be so low and would that fix the soft pedal issue?
Thanks for the video... Not only educational but also funny...
So really didnt show how loose the pin on the booster ,, no help there
mannyman211 sorry the angle of the camera didn’t show very well. At 6:40 the angle was better. Hold the side closer to the brake booster steady, then loosen the side closer to the master cylinder. Lefty loosy, righty righty.
Could this cause brakes to lock up as well? If the push rod was too far out ?
Correct. That’s why I kept making very minor adjustments and testing in my garage. Really you should use a digital caliper but the batteries in mine were dead.
I just had a mechanic change my booster then my brakes started locking up ..they said the push rod was adjusted and i need a new abs control module ..Ughhh just spent $480 to have the booster installed and now my cars worse then before..can't drive it now with the brakes locked
Dang!! I’m no where near a professional or worthy of giving out advice but I would be curious if the push rod is causing the brakes to drag... sorry to hear about your issue!
You dont have a dial caliper???? I guess its a good thing your "off road"..
good info thanks
Are you doing an inward adjustment?
The pushrod was getting adjusted out into the master cylinder
I think I have the same problem
😮
I can't see nothing .
Having the same problem on my modified 47 GMC with a 350. Just learned about push rod adjustment after 2 years! Who knew?
Anyway GM says 1/16 of an inch. I have ordered a digital caliper on Amazon for about 40 dollars. If you want to learn how to measure there is a New Zealander on here that goes thru the procedure in mm but you can translate to GM.th-cam.com/video/rYYzPIGoxfY/w-d-xo.html Most mechanics or brake shops have no clue!
Glad you were able to figure that out! I have a digital caliper but can’t remember why I didnt use it. Either the battery was dead or I didn’t have enough room to get the caliper in place to find the depth. Bet that 350 is fun!! Thanks for watching!
music ruins it
Unable to see what he is actually doing most of the time. No way to measure it? Use an H-tool instead of trial-and-error. This is a rather irresponsible demo.
Another one who doesn’t really know what he’s doin. Just winging it. Read a book fellow there is a procedure to do this. Your gonna need to replace the studs and nut now you had them off so many times they are wore out.
I appreciate your comment. My videos aren’t how to’s just to clarify. Just a guy trying to do stuff himself, learn along the way, and hopefully people can learn from my mistakes (by reading the comments) because I sure make a lot of those. The comments are helpful cause it helps me grow in the long run as well. Thanks Dean!
“i’ve never done this before” !!! Yikes !!!
It’s your BRAKES man. Take care of your life and take it to a mechanic or someone who HAS done it before.
Richard Harvey everyone has “never done something before” the first time they did it. It’s all a matter of doing research, educating yourself, and taking extra precautions to be safe.
Everyone makes choices in life. I’m not sure making a “how to” video without fully understanding the implications is such a great idea. Cosmetic stuff, sure, ok, but brakes are a complicated and critical part of a car. You didn’t even cover proportioning valves, or the $$ it could cost someone if they mess up the ABS components. Just sayin’ ...
No where do I say in any of my videos that they’re how to’s. Just a guy working on stuff in my garage. 👍🏻
And make sure it's the dealership in the original country of manufacture because only they know how to do it right. *eyeroll*
You don't have anyway to measure it, then you shouldn't be messing with it. Another video that should be taken down. poke and hope methods should not be allowed when working with brake systems.
Better for him to leave it totally wrong?
Brake Booster Replace done But Brake pedal free play Brake believing ok padal free play