I think you want terminal #1 to be hot right off the hot side of the key switch through the LED and not really tied into the voltmeter. If you tie it to the light cluster of the guages, it might not work the way we want it to. I'm not sure though, I'd have to draw it out the way you drew it and think about it a little more. The alternator will probably still have a minimum rpm to attain before it starts creating out put so watch for the increased reading on the voltmeter at the exact time the LED goes out. Some times you have to rev the engine to initiate charging, so check the sheet that comes with the alternator and if it doesn't contain the minimum rpm, call the tech service 800 number and ask. Then you will know what to expect. If the LED 'draw' is too great, it may flicker and not go fully off. I have that on one conversion but all it takes is a lower wattage LED if that's the case. Others I used a radio shack diode and not even a light emiting one. Jeez...your tractor is going to look pretty darn good with all that fanciful painting !! Great job.
I was hoping you’d view this and let me know of any errors or omissions. I will review your video again and find where I went wrong. Thanks for letting me know!
You can run 10 gauge wire from post with nut on alternator to starter solenoid to charge battery it will feed back through battery cables to battery instead of running wire from alternator to battery. Also you can use a small light bulb run a power wire to bulb and from bulb to terminal on alternator bulb will light when key is on and when you start it it will excite alternator when alternator kicks in it will send power back to bulb and light will shut off.
I think you want terminal #1 to be hot right off the hot side of the key switch through the LED and not really tied into the voltmeter. If you tie it to the light cluster of the guages, it might not work the way we want it to. I'm not sure though, I'd have to draw it out the way you drew it and think about it a little more. The alternator will probably still have a minimum rpm to attain before it starts creating out put so watch for the increased reading on the voltmeter at the exact time the LED goes out.
Some times you have to rev the engine to initiate charging, so check the sheet that comes with the alternator and if it doesn't contain the minimum rpm, call the tech service 800 number and ask. Then you will know what to expect. If the LED 'draw' is too great, it may flicker and not go fully off. I have that on one conversion but all it takes is a lower wattage LED if that's the case. Others I used a radio shack diode and not even a light emiting one. Jeez...your tractor is going to look pretty darn good with all that fanciful painting !! Great job.
I was hoping you’d view this and let me know of any errors or omissions. I will review your video again and find where I went wrong. Thanks for letting me know!
You can run 10 gauge wire from post with nut on alternator to starter solenoid to charge battery it will feed back through battery cables to battery instead of running wire from alternator to battery. Also you can use a small light bulb run a power wire to bulb and from bulb to terminal on alternator bulb will light when key is on and when you start it it will excite alternator when alternator kicks in it will send power back to bulb and light will shut off.