ford mondeo/peugeot expert 2litre hdi timing belt replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ธ.ค. 2024
- The ford mondeo and peugeot expert vans between 2007 and 2014 fitted with a 2 litre hdi diesel engine.
In this video i will show you how to replace the timing belt.
Just done the timing belt on my 2007 expert tepee van with 165k using nothing but this video for reference, went out yesterday after lunch on the driveway and bashed it in by 8pm, cheers for the clear and easy instructions 👍
thanks, glad it went well
Hey Alan, First time i've come across you on here. I'll attempt most of my own repairs but cambelts always scare the life out of me due to the consequences if they're not done right. Just watched this video and you've explained it so clearly and made it look so easy that i'm quite confident i've been worrying about nothing. Its at least made me want to have a go at doing the Mondeo myself. Thanks for the great tutorial.
I just want to thank you, Alan. Top man. Did this yesterday on my S-Max. Your video gave me the confidence to do it my self and saved me a lot of money. Love your channel. Cheers from Sweden.
I've just done the cam belt for my 2008 ford focus tdci following this video. 5 stars mate thanks for a brilliant video. keep it up!!
Done my 2.0tdci focus today following this tutorial. Must say having engine inside the car makes it slightly more difficult. Good tutorial
Top job mate.....best cambelt tutorial i have seen well done,think i might have a go on my own car after watching this,cheers pal.
cheers
Alan, great tutorial and very well explained.
I'm going to attempt my Peugeot Expert cam belt this month. I don't have an air gun (but may see if I i can borrow one). Fingers crossed it goes to plan.
I'll post to let you know how I get on.
The most informative video I've seen yet. Many thanks....
How did you get on?
Thanks very much, alot of people trying to complicate this stuff online, this is a great straight to the point no nonsense video! 👍
Great video, extremely helpful so thanks for posting. Completed the job today on a 2009 Mondeo. I personally found it much easier to remove the O/S engine mount and supported the engine with a jack. This gave good access to all the various components and only too 5 mins to take off. I also had to remove the auxiliary belt tensioner to remove the bottom cover.The crank bolt was very difficult to remove - an air impact gun wouldn't touch it. Putting the rod through the casting into the flywheel allowed me to get the crank bolt out with a breaker bar.
Well I'll be damned, it worked perfect! Pins slipped in no problem at all after half a dozen manual rotations. You the man Alan!!
You the
Many thanks for the video Alan. Watched your video a few times before doing my timing belt and water pump on my 2014 2.2TDCI SMax. One very suttle difference my idler tensioner was held in with a E14 Star bolt and needed a spanner not socket to remove as engine mount restricted space. Great videos mate.
Just done the cam belt on a MK4 Galaxy using this video. Much better than the Haynes book of lies! Thanks.
Haynes tells nothing about adjusting crankshaft sprocket to the left while you put belt on
That was a great description of the Job, I have to do the Belt in my 136hp Peugeot 307 hdi upgrade model...... Just checked, Its the same engine, Many thanks for the video, We were going to sell it before it was due to be changed as I thought it was a big Job, but it looks like an easy day job.
Allen can you put the flywhheel locking pin in without moving the starter motor ?
if you have the right pin then yes
sorted, i used a renault locking pin in cam pulley and belt went on straight away as you demonstrated working from cam down no issues at all.havnt done one before took couple hours to complete..great help many thanks.
thats great, glad it worked well for you, thanks for the feedback
thank you alan well documented and was very helpful. and your information on the wet belts on the 1.8 diesel was very informative too great for future reference.. kind regards terry.
Great instrction, triggered and saved me €900 by DIY on my S-max!! Thanks! Good system with the extra space around the crank schaft sprocket key to divide the tension.
Did you have done this in garage or outside house ?
I have watched a number of videos on changing the cambelt on this engine. What is absolutely critical is you pre tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with the locking pins still in position. This will then lock the crankshaft sprocket with the the woodruff key in the centre of the slot. I was turning the engine over without the crank pulley fitted and after two revolutions the crank pin and camshaft pin did not align. Of course the cam pulley moved and the woodruff key was no longer central in the slot, it was at one side. Moving the flywheel slightly with a screwdriver on the starter teeth re-aligned everything, both pins fitted and the woodruff key was again in the middle of the slot. So you must pre tighten the crank pulley, to lock the crank sprocket, before removing the pins. Then timing will be bang on.
Many thanks for the video Alan - I just completed the timing and aux belt replacement on a 2007 MK4 2.0 TDCi. I ended up using a suitably sized allan key gaffer taped to some dowel for my crank timing pin, other than that followed this step by step.
I am a retired engineer, this looks like an excellent opportunity to use the old Trick of slicing the cambelt through its centre while it is running before you start work. I am not advocating that anyone does this but I would be able to do it. I've done it before as I am a proper Mr.😉😁
Thanks for the video. It helped me out a lot. My first Cambelt change and a successful one, but also found a couple of other problems with the car on the way, that's the joy working on your own car though I guess.
Hi Alan just want to say thanks for the video, just did the belt on my Mondeo and all went smoothly thanks to your video. Keep up the good work👍👍👍
+1 Brilliant video. I've never liked the idea of buying a car/vehicle with a belt - more expense, more faff, and sometimes the risk of a snapped belt - catastrophe; but at least these last a good long while. 125,000 - that's many years for me.
@@alanjm1234 This seems to be more common with newer produce. Older vehicles - not uncommon for the chain to last the lifetime of the vehicle in question.
Some Volvo engines, the Merc 190E, quite a lot of Japanese stuff - hundreds and hundreds of thousands of miles on the OEM chain.
Assuming a chain hasn't 'let go' they're not hard to swap - link new to old and pull it round.
Apart from the crappy engineering in some 'modern' chains, there is no cause for them to break - it's a circular loading, driving the cams off the crank etc. We could say the same of belts - but what they're made out of makes them inherently weaker than chains - which are steel. Also, chains tend to run through/be lubed by engine oil which aids longevity; belts obviously don't lend themselves to that; and been mounted on the outside of an engine can open them up to all sorts of contamination, debris, especially of a cover isn't fitted correctly, is left off, or is of a poor design.
'Safe' and 'Unsafe' engines another factor which is worth attention before settling on a purchase decision. The marks out the engine design as featuring a buffer in the event of a belt/chain failure - do the pistons/valves meet each other etc.
Best possible scenario - a 'safe' engine, with chain, and a well designed chain made from decent quality, appropriately processed steel.
Great video helped me out a lot, that pin for the crank is an arse to get to, I didn’t have a rod so I took the air box out and took the starter off and you can see the hole clearly and get a bolt in. As mentioned without an airgun I could see the crank bolt being a pain in the arse due to the locktite on the bolt.
its best to heat the crank bolt for 4-5 mins with a hot air gun to loosen the locktite, thew bolt will come out much easier
did you lock the flywheel up to get that pully bolt out ,heat and air gun dosnt touch mine .
@@riskfreesolutionsforbusinessdid you manage to get the bolt out? If so how?
nice clear explanation, that's all anyone needs , cheers Alan.
The crank locking pin would be best left in until the crank pulley bolt is tight. Otherwise the loose key in the cam belt sprocket will will move with the crank while tightening the bolt, putting it slightly out-a-time. I could not access my crank locking hole so I got 2 small drill shanks and put them each side of the key to wedge the sprocket in the centre and to assure it stayed in the middle while doing up the big bolt. Mine is the automatic and I had to use an oil filter strap and a long bar and lots of language to get it undone in the first place. Hopefully the gun will be enough to do it up again but it must be tight as the friction is all that holds the sprocket in the correct position. And my drill shanks of course, 2X 1mm drills was enough in my case. At 100K miles the belt looked fine with the first tiny signs of wear showing on some teeth. A little play in the water pump. I had to heat the pulley to get it off as well.
Thanks Al, just did a Fiat Cudo and needed a little refresher on the belt tensioner setup.
Excellent!
Alan! many thanks for a great video, it helped me a lot when I yesterday changed the timing belt/water pump etc on my MK4 2009 Mondeo 2.2 tdci. It wasn't exactly the same on my 2.2 tdci, the locking hole for the cam shaft sprocket is placed at 7 o'clock (not at 4 o'clock as the 2.0 tdci). Couldn't find a locking hole for the crank shaft/flywheel, so I had to make colour markings on the old belt at the cam shaft sprocket and the crank shaft sprocket and then transferred the colour positions to the new belt. Otherwise everything looked the same on my 2.2 tdci (Q4BA engine).
Hey, I have the same engine, the 2.2. And I've been looking for the flywheel hole for quite a while.
Could you please elaborate on the hole marking the old belt please? I'm not quite sure by your explanation above😊
did you have to lock the flywheel to get the pully bolt out doing it that way ??
managed to get the pully bolt out ok but the harmonic balencer the whole think is on solid any ideas how get it off az there no holes for a puller to lock in to
How did you get the bolt out?
Followed the video for my 2013 s-max. Sorry Alan I was going to bring the car to you but you made it too easy so I saved myself a bundle. 😀 three hours from start to finish and that includes rewatching the video a bunch of times and finding the flippin' rad drain plug.
great job . I have done everything myself thank you , i have a small question if you have done maybe how to replace the anti roll bar busch fronttw ford mondeo mk4
Very detailed tutorial dude keep it up! Tony from Maidstone Kent
People like you are lifesavers :) Thank you very much for this very nice video!
Hi Alan i have changed the timing belt and water pump as instructed in your video and the step by step instructions were perfect i only had an issue were i over tensioned the tensioner pulley so i re adjusted it by backing it off with the 6mm allen tool and nipping the bolt back up when it was in the middle of the pointers, i have no warning lights on and the car drives just the same with no noises. Was it ok to do this a with the tensioner and i checked the bottom pulley and it was sat in the middle of the woodruf key.? thanks
yes if you don't get the tension right first time it is perfectly fine to loosen adjuster and readjust,,, good job
Very practical video Alan
thanks robert
Thanks allot, saved allot of time watching your video up front, very good.
That is a very very good video tutorial. Thanks a lot for the job. It seems more easy now. I'll try to do this in a few months.
Great video.....showing all the important things 🙂thanks
😊
Many thanks Allan' Invaluable guide for my 2010 focus TDCI 2 ltr. Your bloods worth bottling.
Well done. Great video. Much simpler than I thought.
great tutorial. thanks for taking the effort to explain it clearly.
thanks
Hello, thank you!
What should be the moment in Nm for the water pump?
Hi Alan just a quick question I have a mk4 mondeo 2.0 tdci just done the belt and chain followed your video it’s cranking looks like I have fuel to injectors, but it’s not firing are these always a pain in the arse to start after the injectors and high pressure pumps been off
hi, yes they can be a right pain to start. you need to disconnect the fuel return pipe connection next to the fuel filter and use a foot or air vacuum pump to draw the fuel round out of the pump while cranking the engine..quite often have to do this just after replacing a fuel filter or it will never start
Alan Howatt thanks I got her going in the end it’s like a new car no more timing chain rattle
The crankshaft pully can sometime be really tough to move. If you have to start knocking it and prizing it about, the reluctor disc can easily be damaged, but still look intact. They can be picked up for about £20 and well worth replacing as a matter of course.
Great video. But what would happen if you turned the engine over 2 revolutions like you suggest and the camshaft locking pin and flywheel locking pin don’t align? I assume this shouldn’t happen as both the fleet and camshaft had been locked. Is it possible that they can move and therefore not align at the end?
If the timing is out you wouldn't be able to rotate the crankshaft once,never mind twice as piston will meet valves.He rotates the engine twice by hand to make sure timing is ok.Always do this and never rotate the engine on the starter motor.
Hi Alan. Great videos you produce. I looking for the torque figures for the crankshaft bolt. I have spent hours looking for the torque. I´ve got one answer from the Swedish Ford Club: 70 Nm and then further 60 degree. Is this correct? Should the bolt be changed to a new one?
hi, yes 70nm plus 60 degrees is correct
Thanks for a great video! Just wondering if the crank pulley could be correctly torqued up while using the timing pin / old bonnet rod to lock the flywheel rather than removing the starter motor to use a flywheel locking tool. Maybe the pin isn't man enough and risks bending?
the timing pin would probably bend...if i were you...whack the bolt up with a good air or battery gun
Hello @@alan4x. Thanks for the great tutorials ! I have only one question. Is any of the pistons at TDC when the flywheel is locked? I have fiat scudo which has the same engine. Thank you for the answer. Ludek
Hey Alan, I want to ask you, what's the thickness of that bent bonnet rod you use to time the flywheel ?
8 mm
Hi Alan, thanks for this video! I have a channel myself, and I know what effort it takes. It demistifies ford cambelts for me. Can I just ask something to understand process completely? After fitting new belt and doing 2 revolutions - if locking pins don't match, how do you adjust it? Many thanks :)
Looks ridiculously easy, VS other engines, how much harder is it on the car ? Thanks
I love This video ....
I have one question . I have smax 2011 poweshift 2.0 tdci.... flywheel have to lock pins smalił and Big one...everything is spot on in my car with smali hole.... it is all right?
when trying get the cam pully bolt out for the first time should car be in gear or neutral?
Really helpful video thanks. Is it ok to support the engine from under a plastic sump? (MK3 focus)
K and D spanners, I got a full set from 6mm to 32mm when I was a teenager. I wish I still had the plastic draw liner tray they came in.
thanks for the tip Alan,, make me to change my cambelt last sunday,, no problem at all :)
cheers
Quite nicely laid out fr doing this job I must say. uch better than the old VW from passats skodas volvos and mitsubishis.
Hi Alan, another great video. You have a natural gift for teaching and certain you would be an asset at any educational establishment. I have found most of your videos to be very informative and engaging. In reference to the cam belt change you did on the 2.0l engine, is the procedure the same fore the 2.2.?
Did you find out if it's the same?
Very good explanation!!! I have 1 question - do i have to remove starter motor to put the timing pin into the flywheel or there is enough space without removing it ? Thanks!
hi, if you have a bent rod like the one i use in the video then you don't have to remove the starter motor
alan howatt Ok thanks mate for the fast reply!!
hi again. i did no manage to unscrew the crank bolt. was very tight, tried with air gun, tried with very long rod but no good. i gave up, i was afraid that the bolt might snap. any advice ? thanks!
@@jovanzacevski I just did mine for the first time after 217k kilometers / 11 years. I ended up making my own locking pin for the flywheel, like the one in the video. I used a piece of 8mm round iron and reduced it to 7,5mm. Worked perfectly. My crank bolt was also very tight. I had to pull out my dads monster electric impact wrench with 3/4 inch connector and a long special socket. It barely made it, but it worked, so I doubt you'll break that bolt. :)
You make this look really easy. Good job.
Hi Alan Going to do cambelt on my 2.2 tdci Do I need to remove starter motor for locking pin on flywheel. Going to be following your video also got to change CamShaft seal thanks
How did you get on Mark? I’m just doing my 2.2 and wondered if you had any issues with getting new cam belt on?
Doing my 2.2tdci at the moment and this vídeo explains it all.
But that "fear" is always present doing this job hehe
lol, yes i know exactly what you mean
Somehow,i can't get the woodruff key (i think this is the correct name) to be center on the crankshaft sprocket,is this an issue Alan?
André Castro
Hi. The woodruff key does not have to be dead centre in the elongated slot of the crank sprocket.
As long as the woodruff key is not butted hard up against either side of the sprocket. So if you have a small gap one side and a larger gap the other side that is perfectly fine
Many thanks Alan,your're a life savior!
Keep the excelent work!
@@alan4x is it possible for the crankshaft pulley to wobble after all the things back in place?
Hi Alan I have a question...I dropped my MK4 Mondeo today to a shop to to the cambelt and after I picked the car there is a humming noise. They replaced all the pulleys and water pump. You have any idea? The power is there, no smoke...no tapping..just a humming noise. Any ideas? Thanks
2l diesel
cant really say without hearing it
@@alan4x sorted. He over tighten the tensioner. But thank you very much for answering.
Is this footage also for a Fiat Scudo 2.0 Diesel Multi-jet 2013? Thx.
Do I need a flywheel lock pin, if I have a heavy duty impact gun?
Yes
It's to stop it going out of time with the camshaft you need both in place before
When trying to take the crank shaft bolt off, i used a breaker bar with a long pipe to crack it open. I had the rod in the flywheel at the time. when lifting the bar anti clock wise to break the bolts the crank wheel spun about half a turn backwards. Now if the crank wheel spun backwards with the flywheel locked, how is that possible? i mean what would have spun backwards, just the crank sprocket or the crank along with the sprocket while the flywheel remained pinned in place. was it possible the crank moved independently from the flywheel, meaning the crank position is no longer coordinated with the hole in the flywheel? If that's the case this would mean the hole in the flywheel will no longer determine the correct position of the crank. And i'm stuffed.
used air gun to get pully bolt out with NO LUCK and heated it first . ive got THE locking kit but looking at it im thinking well if alan says he wouldnt trust the 8ml pin to hold the flywheel i dont think i trust the flywheel locker either it just locks one tooth?peg on the fly wheel. with all the force i recon its going to take move that pully bolt. so am wondering if i put car in gear foot on brake do it that way and then lock the engine up after bolt is out . IS this asking for TROUBLE ???also am thinking that way wont have to move starter motor az its a pain in the volvo v70 p3 rdisign .
When the engine is in the car, how do I insert the crank locking tool into the flywheel?
I can see the back of engine attached to the bell housing , that goes straight into the (auto) transmission.
In this scenario, is there another trick to insert the locking tool?
Hi is this the same for the 2.2 engine on a ford galaxy?.
yes
Fantastic video allan. I am preparing to change my cars belt over xmas. As part of a big service. I have a 2013 focus 2.0tdci tit x estate my engine is the 163. Dw10c. Is my proceedure the same as this video. I bought haynes nanual for mk3 focus but wierdly it doesnt cover the 2.0 so i bought a kuga manual that covers my engine
hi allan cracking video many thanks, i have a quick question could i get away with not locking the flywheel , as starter motor will be a pig to get out, and just mark up crankshaft position with tipex on crank and belt and engine and obviously pin the cam shaft, also mark up the cam shaft, thanks again for all your help with this content
Hi Alan how do you get the timing back If the belt snaps on one of these. Thanks 👍
Grazie x il video se posso permettermi consiglierei di scaldare bene il bullone dell albero motore perche a volte non si svita a causa della loctite.e fondamentale scaldarlo bene prima di rimuoverlo in quanto si potrebbe spezzare..
Hi Alan I have a 12 plate titanium x sport 2.2 and it has developed a rattle at the top of the engine around about 2000 RPM at first I thought it was a heat shield as it seemed it was coming from the turbo area manifold and heat exchange area if it is the chain have you got the workshop manual how to do it I watched your video on the 2.0 engine but obviously that was out the car with a lot of parts missing do I have to take anything from the back of the engine where the turbo is heat exchange EGR valve and the manifold any help with this matter would be great as I am going to have to tackle this myself as Ford is obviously not taking non key workers love the video🖒
if you have watched the video on replacing the timing chain then it is cam belt off, high pressure pump and brake vacuum pumps off... and camshaft cover off,,, it is a lot of unbolting but you don't touch the turbo ..probably worth getting advise, the video i show covers about most of it even though the engine was out of the car
Hey Alan, great video. one question.. do we need to take out the starter to Lock the flywheel?
if you have the correct flywheel holding tool for that car then i would think you do. i have never locked the flywheel...just use an air or battery gun to remove and tighten crank bolt
@@alan4x Ok, thanx👍 A couple of days ago i changed the oil and filter on the Powershift Automatic gearbox in my 2011 Mondeo, based upon your video on it, and it's now in mint condision🤘 So thanx for sharing👍😀
Hi, Alan, I did everything and I did follow your instructions but three days ago I took apart the whole thing; now I have a problem; Camshaft and Crankshaft DEAD POINT DONT MEET; CAMSHAFT WAS A 10 OCLOCK, AND CRANKSHAFT WAS A T DEAD POINT WERE PIN WILL FIX THE HOLW IN FLYWHEEL
THANKS VERY MUCH FOR READING
Hi Alan, is it essential that the woodruff key is centred. Mine isn’t but I’m prepared to redo the belt if needed. What can happen if it’s not centred? Thanks.
Alan, do you know if this process is the same for the 2.2 of the same generation?
Is this engine the same as a 2012 focus diesel 2 litre ?.
Hi alan i e got a 2.2 smax as this is the dw10 engine would the dw12 2.2 be the same.... Are the timing pin locations the same on the 2.2 as the 2.0
Hi Allan I have the 2.2 mondeo 58 reg , just wandering the same ??
@@onsight2822 done mine on my 59 plate 2.2 smax and yes it is the same as this video. I used a gates kit and it says to rotate the engine 4 times rather than the 2 that alan said but think that depends on the kit used..... on the 2.2 there is a plastic guard behind the starter you need to remove ( unbolt the starter to get it out) and then the timing pin goes in under the starter.....
Eventually got round to doing cam belt on my 2.2, everything timed up with cam and crank pinned. However cannot get my new belt on as it won’t stretch onto the exact tooth of the crank that I had painted up. When I removed the old belt I marked it in 3 places and transferred to the new belt so i know it’s all exact, but baffled why it won’t fit? If I unpin the crank only and move it slightly to slot into belt presumably when tensioner get set it should pull everything into place. Does this sound a logical approach or am I missing something? Many thanks for creating such great videos Alan
The answer to my problem is…..,the crankshaft sprocket on the 2.2 does in fact move freely on the woodruff key, however mine was stuck and needed some lube and freeing up. The ONLY difference between doing the belt on the 2.2 is the cam pulley locks up at the 7 o’clock position whereas the 2.0 locks in the 4 o’clock position.
Hi any many thanks for all the nice and entertaining videos. Iam going to do mine on a mondeo 2011 2.0tdci but iam wondering if the harmonic balancer need alignment or its like this engine 🤔.
Hi Alan
Thanks for the video, I'm going to attempt this job on my 2007 Dispatch van. Looks like no special tools needed and I love that tensioner with built in indicator, what a great invention 🤣
Can i just use two 8mm bolts? And does the starter motor need to come off for the crank locker?
Thanks
Hi Alan, quick question. Smax with the same engine. But belt snapped, probably ripped off 7 years ago... if i lock the crankshaft. Can i turn on the camshaft pulley to line up the hole? Because it's all wrong with the snapped belt. Asking because the rockers are going to be broken too.. but i need to set up timing first
you can set the timing up later, if the rockers are broken just replace them and possibly the camshaft as well as the lobes can sometimes move on the shaft...when all is replaced you can't get the camshaft wrong but need to make sure no1 piston is up when you insert the crank pin
@@alan4x the engine is back alive. Thank you for the response!
Hi Allen.
Dos the bottom sprocket after be bang on center? Mines more right, tried loads of times to get it center and won't. Dos that mean something is up? Even tho I have it bang to the left for putting belt on. Once I get it round on w-pump and bottom sprocket and pull pin on tensioner comes into center then tight with pointer in window check sprocket and it more to the right. 🤔 All locked up etc.
no, as long as the woodruff key is within the slot on the bottom sprocket but it does not need to be dead centre
Ppffee... Thank you Allen. Really appreciate your reply 👍. I thought sumet was up I used your video to help me couple weeks back and got it bang center. But tensioner been bothering me since. So just fitted anufa new kit to replace kit to go back. And as said just can't get it bang center with new kit on.
And the fact I have weired noise, comes and go's hard to explain tho I have a video of it, I thought was coming from vacuum pump so replaced it, as had opened it up and all worn inside. But its come back again from vacuum pump(new 1).🤔
Car is a 2013 2.0 mk4.5.
La polea de distribucion se cambia por años (antiquedad) o por los kilometros ? ?
Also wondering if I should take the top cover of after a couple of days to check the tensioner pointer hasn't moved, when I first put it on I had to adjust it a few times before it settled down on the notch permanently...Id adjust it, turn the crank a few times and the pointer moved, adjust again, turn crank (by hand) pointer moved,adjust a bit more and voila it stayed on the notch...does the timing belt"wear in" and stretch a bit? or is it rock solid now? cheers
Hi Alan have u got any videos on how to replace the fuel pump on a mk4 2.0tdci 2010?
hi lee, no i don't but they are easy to replace..three 13mm bolts, a few pipes and you pull them off...the pumps are not timed to the engine and have a dog drive that just slots into the camshaft so you cant get them in wrong
Thanks for your reply mate and thanks for the information...checked fuel filter yesterday and i saw a couple of tiny metal particles so i guess its pump causing it
Diametar for crankshaft blocking pin and for camshaft thank you
Excellent video as ever. Thanks so much.
Quick question I have just done mine and after took the car for a run but it won't change out of 3rd gear in the trans and really bangs into gear it strange we didn't unplug everything or go near the trans or unbolt any mounts
Fixed it don't know how must of been a dirty plug contact
Has this Mondeo engine only have one camshaft?
no it has two camshafts...there is a chain linking the belt driven camshaft
Is this the same for a 1.8L diesel 2010 mondeo? I just got quoted £725, he said mine has two belts? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Is there a timing mark on the crank pulley instead of pinning the flywheel?
no there isn't
Hello Alan, Any idea how to sync the cam and crankshaft in case of loosing the locks . the cam pulley is locked as you shown in video but the crankshaft has moved, could you please tell me how to find the ring position!? Thank you in advance. Max/Sweden
Hello Max. Did you find the solution ? Thks for answer
Great video as ever, and fully get how working on an engine out the car makes sense from a video POV. How much tougher is it to actually do this in situ!? CAn you get to what you need to easy enough...?
AT 3:35 were you remove the crankshaft pulley bolt can you use the bent bonnet rod in the hole to lock the flywheel to remove the bolt with a spanner? great video by the way, I might just attempt it...
Ozi Goo
Hi.. don't use the rod to lock the flywheel when undoing the crank bolt. The rod will bend.
If you don't have an air or good battery gun then best remove the starter motor and lock the flywheel there with something more solid.
Hi great tutorial I'm looking into doing mine on ford smax 2.0 tdci 2007. Am I right thinking it's exactly the same engine thanks
i thinking your engine is similar but not quite the same.. i believe the crank sprocket on your engine has no adjustment
hi Alan have fitted the belt waterpump but have noticed that after doing couplw rotations the belt isnt running in the centre of the top cam sprocket its more towards the engine side when i took it off it was dead centre ,does this mean its misalined ive run engine for 20mins without any probs . is it a problem ??
hi, the belt does not have to be dead centre on the cam pulley but as long as it is not trying to come off the pulley or hit the cam pulley backplate... have had ibler and tensiners in the past that are faulty causing the belt to run off the pulley and hit the belt plastic cover.
might be worth going for a run and then rechecking...as long as the belt is not hard against either edge of rhe pulley you are ok
Hi Alan, I have got Ford mondeo 2008 1.8ltr ztec tdci diesel car having 188k KM on meter, previous owner has mentioned that he got replaced timing belt but I don't know how to check it without opening all parts, I checked from top and that turned out fan belt could you please do some tutorial on how to check if belt is fine, could you please also guide where is timing belt and where is fan belt.
hi i found on both engines i have. whilst the cam hole pin goes in perfect the crank is out slightly. same on both engines. the crank location is a recessed square in the flywheel. shud this be locked 1st then the cam? i did it the other way around. nothing locks up.
As Daz below i found that the idler was held by a star bolt that rounded off when trying to undo, so had to leave idler for later, does any one know if the bolt can be replaced with a normal bold and what size etc this would be, great video help my loads