Absolutely, I'm sure folks would love to have that. I'll work out a way to contact you and work around your availability/interest for something. Thanks for the offer, looking forward to it!
Great video! Been working on Davion Guard and Lyran Guard for a very long time and this really helps them get from the painting bench to done fast. I've found the Blue Contrast and this method makes Lyran Guard especially easy! Thank you!
amusingly your basic contrast guides are better then the ones GW puts up. GW's guides are normally amazing but their contrast stuff hasn't helped me too much, this was handy
Simple and effective. I've been reluctant to use contrast paints, but at the same time I want to get away from Army Painter Quickshade for painting huge armies. This stuff "looks" like it's used in an identical fashion to AP Quickshade - but without the toxic smell and the 24-48 hour drying time. (though I have to say, the Quickshade creates beautiful effects for organic colors - like hair, leather, skin, fur, etc)
Heroes & Bosses I understand the quick shade conundrum but it does put a nice hardened finish over miniatures which I certainly appreciate in my models that see table time. I use it for 40k cultists religiously and then dry brush over it to highlight.
@@Kepora1 exactly what I'm doing now. Was doing deep cleaning and getting rid of old boxes. Found all my old BT stuff. Lots and lots of it. Just painted my first paint jobs. Lots of practice needed but looking forward to the journey.
Love this series! Makes painting so much easier. Question: 'mechs have taken a beating for 3-4 cebturies. Any techniques for detailing armor patchwork?
Thank you for the awesome guide! As a novice painter just getting into Battletech, I'm finding your channel to be a great resource. Do you think I would be alright using a flat medium grey primer and just base coating the ivory over that, or is the white primer a must for a good result? Also, do you think this method would be a good starting point for a Lyran Guard scheme? I've made a few attempts at painting Lyran Guards but the white never turns out (clumpy with brush strokes no matter how many thinned layers I paint or dry brush on).
If you get good consistent and smooth coverage with your ivory over the medium grey primer then yes it would be just fine. Lyran guards would be a great way to try this out if you don't want to use other methods for the white portions.
Tex paints Battletech!! hell yeah. wow Tex you really can do it all ..commentaries,game play, now painting! space AT&T would like to offer you limited time HPG upgrade package for 24.999 C-Bills a month in recognition of your service to the greater good
No it was fine. I did the same with my contrast blue video. I was considering trying that gloss after primer as well to see if it results in the same interaction.
I'm having no luck using the citadel wraithbone primer and this over the top. The basilicanum grey works fantastic doing just as you do here, but the apothecary white just comes out as a thick/blue grey and doesn't show any of the details. I might try watering it down a lot and see how that goes.
Sorry to hear that. I wish I had some advice but I don't use any of the GW primers so I haven't had much to go off of. I made my suggestions based on the color of the basecoat not the actual manufacturer. I've also known of a few folks that had bad pots of Contrast paint. It may be worth checking into that and contacting GW for a replacement.
@@CamoSpecsOnline I do find the primer makes a fair difference, as at first I was using a grey Tamiya primer and I couldn't get Apothecary White, Basilicanum Grey, Blood Angels Red nor Akhelian Green to give the wash-like shaded effect I expected from contrast paints. They were entirely flat. At least with the Wraithbone primer I can get the grey and green to work as I'd expected/seen, but still not the white (haven't tried red yet). My next idea's are to try it over a Vallejo off-white base coat, and failing that to thin it out and use it more like a wash.
You'll be doing a lot of work from black primer building up white over black even if you immediately put a grey coat over black and then work up to white/ivory. The contrast paints are specifically designed to go over white, ivory, or light grey undercoats to maximize their color intensity. I recommend a light grey or white primer if you plan on using contrast or speedpaint style paints as they really need a light color beneath them.
Ok. So. You spray it with the Krylon fusion gloss. But then you put two thin coats of ivory from model color. Aren’t you covering the gloss which would stop the capillary action of the contrast paint. Unless the two thin coats are also a satin finish. Just a little confused at the beginning of the video.
Nope, you don't rely on capillary action with contrast paints. That's why you have to make sure to brush it on evenly over the whole model. If you have Ivory/bone primer, use that. If not, you can just paint over it like I demonstrated. I do the same thing with grey in my blue contrast video.
Ok. I was figuring that the gloss was what helped the contrast. If not then. Why use a gloss primer? I gave the fusion at home after I saw your previous demonstrations and the ivory. Just trying to figure it out but enjoy learning new techniques
@@Morachnyion The gloss still helps and for those that want to use white beneath a different color or whatnot, it's the best option to cover the most variety. The basecoat of paint you put over the primer has a nice smooth finish to go over whereas a matte primer may have a bit more "tooth" and texture which will be present even after a base layer is applied.
Long Tran not really. Unless you paint a pure even white and then do a solid black lining in the panels, there will always be a transition to whatever shade you apply. If you don’t like grey transitions, then perhaps a warm white using brown shading is more your taste, or a cool white using blue shading. The simple fact is that white is the absence of color so anything you use to shade will merge and create a color transition. Perhaps look at a few other of my white tutorials as well as other channels to find a process and a result that you like best.
Why does my apothecary white come out of the pot much thinner than yours? I seriously can not STOP it from flowing and leaving massive gaps and patches. I've done a grey primer with wraithbone undercoat. Done some with and some without a satin varnish over that to see if that makes up for a non-glossy primer. Same results with both. Patchy, ugly looking statue. Not white at all.
Off the top of my head, I would just make sure you've agitated all the medium with the pigment that settles in the paint. Contrast needs to be stirred or shaken with an agitator in the bottle to ensure thorough mixing. If that's not the case, perhaps you have some odd bottle and I would recommend seeing if anyone you know has the same paint to compare. If that's the case I would contact GW for a replacement. I hope that's at least somewhat helpful and gets your issues resolved.
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I can gladly do a voiceover if you like
Absolutely, I'm sure folks would love to have that. I'll work out a way to contact you and work around your availability/interest for something. Thanks for the offer, looking forward to it!
I love how everyone see's how good these contrast paints are for mechs. So much better for these small minis than for 40K models. IMO
Hahaha! Loved Tex doing the intro!!
Thanks, glad I was able to pull it off and come close
Camo Specs Online I thought it was him when I first listened, very good job!
@@CloudCobra22 Thanks, hopefully people like it and Tex doesn't mind.
Great video! Been working on Davion Guard and Lyran Guard for a very long time and this really helps them get from the painting bench to done fast. I've found the Blue Contrast and this method makes Lyran Guard especially easy! Thank you!
My god...it’s like Hanse Davion all over again
amusingly your basic contrast guides are better then the ones GW puts up. GW's guides are normally amazing but their contrast stuff hasn't helped me too much, this was handy
If you cant be awesome, at least be amusing! Seriously though, thanks for the compliment and I plan to get a few more colors done.
I was waiting for this. Looks even better than I expected. Thank you very much!
Thanks, hope you find it helpful.
CAMOSPECS great Video for painting white. My Comguard thank you a lot!
I was actually gonna do the anti-blakist Heart Of Blake mercs
Makes it easier with that Contrast Paints that multiple thin coats of white. BTW your display at Gen Con was pretty awesome
Thanks, we're glad you enjoyed it!
Simple and effective. I've been reluctant to use contrast paints, but at the same time I want to get away from Army Painter Quickshade for painting huge armies. This stuff "looks" like it's used in an identical fashion to AP Quickshade - but without the toxic smell and the 24-48 hour drying time. (though I have to say, the Quickshade creates beautiful effects for organic colors - like hair, leather, skin, fur, etc)
Heroes & Bosses I understand the quick shade conundrum but it does put a nice hardened finish over miniatures which I certainly appreciate in my models that see table time. I use it for 40k cultists religiously and then dry brush over it to highlight.
@@CamoSpecsOnline You use quickshade religiously? I use it a lot too - I think it creates a really nice effect :)
Great tutorial! The model looks really good. Thanks for sharing this.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great job. Sadly don't play Battletech much (friends moved, got married, had kids, etc.) but that was a really quick and effective paint job.
Teach the kids, then.
@@Kepora1 exactly what I'm doing now. Was doing deep cleaning and getting rid of old boxes. Found all my old BT stuff. Lots and lots of it. Just painted my first paint jobs. Lots of practice needed but looking forward to the journey.
Gotta give this a try.
Love this series! Makes painting so much easier. Question: 'mechs have taken a beating for 3-4 cebturies. Any techniques for detailing armor patchwork?
Thank you for the awesome guide! As a novice painter just getting into Battletech, I'm finding your channel to be a great resource.
Do you think I would be alright using a flat medium grey primer and just base coating the ivory over that, or is the white primer a must for a good result?
Also, do you think this method would be a good starting point for a Lyran Guard scheme? I've made a few attempts at painting Lyran Guards but the white never turns out (clumpy with brush strokes no matter how many thinned layers I paint or dry brush on).
If you get good consistent and smooth coverage with your ivory over the medium grey primer then yes it would be just fine. Lyran guards would be a great way to try this out if you don't want to use other methods for the white portions.
Tex paints Battletech!! hell yeah. wow Tex you really can do it all ..commentaries,game play, now painting!
space AT&T would like to offer you limited time HPG upgrade package for 24.999 C-Bills a month in recognition of your service to the greater good
You didnt find the lack of glossy base coat a problem? I'm wondering if i need to base>gloss>contrast paint
No it was fine. I did the same with my contrast blue video. I was considering trying that gloss after primer as well to see if it results in the same interaction.
I'm having no luck using the citadel wraithbone primer and this over the top. The basilicanum grey works fantastic doing just as you do here, but the apothecary white just comes out as a thick/blue grey and doesn't show any of the details. I might try watering it down a lot and see how that goes.
Sorry to hear that. I wish I had some advice but I don't use any of the GW primers so I haven't had much to go off of. I made my suggestions based on the color of the basecoat not the actual manufacturer. I've also known of a few folks that had bad pots of Contrast paint. It may be worth checking into that and contacting GW for a replacement.
@@CamoSpecsOnline I do find the primer makes a fair difference, as at first I was using a grey Tamiya primer and I couldn't get Apothecary White, Basilicanum Grey, Blood Angels Red nor Akhelian Green to give the wash-like shaded effect I expected from contrast paints. They were entirely flat. At least with the Wraithbone primer I can get the grey and green to work as I'd expected/seen, but still not the white (haven't tried red yet). My next idea's are to try it over a Vallejo off-white base coat, and failing that to thin it out and use it more like a wash.
Woah !
Looks nice
Would this be an appropriate color scheme if your painting a Fiesta Pail?
Absolutely!
Woah, this is a really good looking white, which is usually a bitch to do.
I see the mini was primed white but I only have black primer, will that still work fine?
You'll be doing a lot of work from black primer building up white over black even if you immediately put a grey coat over black and then work up to white/ivory. The contrast paints are specifically designed to go over white, ivory, or light grey undercoats to maximize their color intensity. I recommend a light grey or white primer if you plan on using contrast or speedpaint style paints as they really need a light color beneath them.
Ok. So. You spray it with the Krylon fusion gloss. But then you put two thin coats of ivory from model color. Aren’t you covering the gloss which would stop the capillary action of the contrast paint. Unless the two thin coats are also a satin finish. Just a little confused at the beginning of the video.
Nope, you don't rely on capillary action with contrast paints. That's why you have to make sure to brush it on evenly over the whole model. If you have Ivory/bone primer, use that. If not, you can just paint over it like I demonstrated. I do the same thing with grey in my blue contrast video.
Ok. I was figuring that the gloss was what helped the contrast. If not then. Why use a gloss primer? I gave the fusion at home after I saw your previous demonstrations and the ivory. Just trying to figure it out but enjoy learning new techniques
I refuse to by gw special 20$ primer. Lol.
@@Morachnyion The gloss still helps and for those that want to use white beneath a different color or whatnot, it's the best option to cover the most variety. The basecoat of paint you put over the primer has a nice smooth finish to go over whereas a matte primer may have a bit more "tooth" and texture which will be present even after a base layer is applied.
Can't hear you, thought my speakers were fugged up.
Hm don't you think it looks like gray more than white?
Long Tran not really. Unless you paint a pure even white and then do a solid black lining in the panels, there will always be a transition to whatever shade you apply. If you don’t like grey transitions, then perhaps a warm white using brown shading is more your taste, or a cool white using blue shading. The simple fact is that white is the absence of color so anything you use to shade will merge and create a color transition. Perhaps look at a few other of my white tutorials as well as other channels to find a process and a result that you like best.
Why does my apothecary white come out of the pot much thinner than yours? I seriously can not STOP it from flowing and leaving massive gaps and patches. I've done a grey primer with wraithbone undercoat. Done some with and some without a satin varnish over that to see if that makes up for a non-glossy primer. Same results with both. Patchy, ugly looking statue. Not white at all.
Off the top of my head, I would just make sure you've agitated all the medium with the pigment that settles in the paint. Contrast needs to be stirred or shaken with an agitator in the bottle to ensure thorough mixing. If that's not the case, perhaps you have some odd bottle and I would recommend seeing if anyone you know has the same paint to compare. If that's the case I would contact GW for a replacement. I hope that's at least somewhat helpful and gets your issues resolved.