Don't usually comment on youtube videos, but you're criminally underrated and I wanted to tell you you've been a massive help in getting me to paint up some stompy robots. Thank you!
I know this is an old video, and you may never see this, but I just discovered your channel as I bought Battletech this week. I have been painting minis since the 80s as I play D&D and watched many videos like yours. You have an incredible step by step process to your video that are so helpful.
You lost me at Jade Falcon. Nice to see your still making good use of those contrast paints. I like seeing all the diverse uses folks are finding for them. Thanks and take care.
Well I've been on a Falcon kick since we have so many Wolf Beta examples out there. I had to counter it a bit and maximize the different technique examples on this model. The good news is forest camo doesn't discriminate against any faction :P
I just got into battle tech again and was going to go with clan wolf. Clan wolf and had falcon are both some of my favorites and love the aiden pryde novels. You’ve just pushed me from painting mine up from wolf to jade falcon !!!
I have never worked with an airbrush, but the masking method seems really cool. Now I wonder if you can flatten a piece of putty, cut it into a zig-zag-shape with a knife or scissors and then stick that to a mech to get totally crazy camo-patterns. I painted a lance of Steiner Royal guards and Rasalhague Freemen (the nightsky parade scheme) recently, but I do have a distinct lack of nice camo-patterns that this video inspires me to address. Keep up the great work, Camo Specs!
The silly putty would probably deform at such a small scale so you would likely be better off with a masking tape designed for hobby airbrush painting but it's certainly something to consider and if I had to guess a larger surface area like a tank or aerospace fighter would have the best result.
Yes they are! I wish they were a bit less expensive for new artists trying to get into them but they sure do get the job done without having to thin much.
Been using this painting guide for my Gamma Galaxy bois, it's been great! A few notes based on my personal experience: I avoided getting Valspar as previously mentioned, and got Rustoleum Apple Green (Satin, Color does not seem to exist in Matte). The paint is not as opaque as I'd hoped for, and needs to be applied a little on the thick side from the spray can. At some point, I'll see if there's a brush-on paint that will work better. Obviously, an airbrush cuts into that issue altogether. Speaking of thick layers, when removing the silly putty, there tends to be a leftover "lip" of green that didn't 100% get removed, and I need to do some additional scraping off. Otherwise, when I do the khaki drybrush stage, the paint edges become much more pronounced and kinda icky looking. This is probably something only I noticed since I'm inspecting the minis up close, but you may not see it at a glance across the table. One thing I'd recommend is to silly putty any gun barrels, missile launchers, or any other detail you'll paint silver/gunmetal. This will prevent making those sections extra bulky with thick paint layers and keep details showing through. Overall, minor gripes and suggestions for improvements on the technique. As said before, this technique is great for painting up an awesome looking Jade Falcon collection. Thanks, B1bflyer!
Thanks for all the feedback on the different methods you used and their respective results. Rattle cans are a bit of a risk as some colors and brands act differently. Glad you were able to use it to help you out though!
@@CamoSpecsOnline I had a different result with the Rustoleum satin paint, it's still much too thick for what I was trying to accomplish. This paintjob convinced me to just get an airbrush and not take the risk again.
Just a tip... Go to your local big box hardware store and ask for "Duct Seal" its only $10 for i think 5lbs... It is a putty that does not harden also...
It's just an artist palette paper pad you can get from an art supply store or on amazon.com. I cut the full sheets into quarters so they're smaller and more manageable on my desk. www.amazon.com/Strathmore-365-9-Palette-Bound-Sheets/dp/B00CPD0O1U/ref=zg_bs_8090742011_1/142-2127320-0324234?pd_rd_i=B08BC1PVQW&psc=1
I just wanted to say.. I love your work and it inspired me to make a gamma army.. I only have one question.. I only have army painter paints. Which colors of those are compared to the colors of which you've use in you're video?
I would try Army Green, (perhaps with just a bit of black mixed in), Skeleton Bone, Gun Metal (same AP name), Toxic Mist or Elemental Bolt (your preference), Pure Red, and Leather Brown
Another great video! Learning alot from these tutorials. I have a request, doubtful if you do it or not. But anyway I have a Nova I want to paint completely overheated, and I'm not sure how to go about painting an entire mech glowing like you did on the heat vent on the back of the mech?
First, glad you enjoy the content, thank you for the feedback. I'd suggest taking a look at Brushido's work on the website as he's the heat glow guru at CSO. He's also done more work akin to what you're trying to achieve with more than just the exhaust vents glowing.
Can you or anyone else suggest a specific makeup brush? Asking because those I have tried have either been too big or too soft to work very well. Love your videos!!!!! Just did a mech using your GDL guide and it looks Great!
I ordered these last year and all but the longer ones are great for working with oils. You can also get some of the artists opus Dry brushes or Army Painter Drybrush set if you're wanting them for drybrushing. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1LIQUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Absolutely. A lot of the paint will flake off, but you can just roll it around in your hands and it will work fine even with some paint bits in the mix.
Don't usually comment on youtube videos, but you're criminally underrated and I wanted to tell you you've been a massive help in getting me to paint up some stompy robots. Thank you!
Thank you so much! It’s great hearing how we help folks paint more battletech.
I know this is an old video, and you may never see this, but I just discovered your channel as I bought Battletech this week. I have been painting minis since the 80s as I play D&D and watched many videos like yours. You have an incredible step by step process to your video that are so helpful.
Welcome to Battletech and thanks for sharing your feedback. We're always glad to hear how folks enjoy our content. Cheers!
You lost me at Jade Falcon. Nice to see your still making good use of those contrast paints. I like seeing all the diverse uses folks are finding for them. Thanks and take care.
Well I've been on a Falcon kick since we have so many Wolf Beta examples out there. I had to counter it a bit and maximize the different technique examples on this model. The good news is forest camo doesn't discriminate against any faction :P
The master at work... going to be putting this tutorial to use shortly
Always love seeing the work that folks do after watching the videos!
I just got into battle tech again and was going to go with clan wolf. Clan wolf and had falcon are both some of my favorites and love the aiden pryde novels. You’ve just pushed me from painting mine up from wolf to jade falcon !!!
Well I'm glad you're back to battletech and that you like the tutorial. Have fun with your painting!
Absolutely fantastic tutorial man, thanks for this
I am about to run a rpg game facing Gamma Galaxy and this is wonderfully detailed
You're very welcome!
I have never worked with an airbrush, but the masking method seems really cool.
Now I wonder if you can flatten a piece of putty, cut it into a zig-zag-shape with a knife or scissors and then stick that to a mech to get totally crazy camo-patterns.
I painted a lance of Steiner Royal guards and Rasalhague Freemen (the nightsky parade scheme) recently, but I do have a distinct lack of nice camo-patterns that this video inspires me to address.
Keep up the great work, Camo Specs!
The silly putty would probably deform at such a small scale so you would likely be better off with a masking tape designed for hobby airbrush painting but it's certainly something to consider and if I had to guess a larger surface area like a tank or aerospace fighter would have the best result.
This was great! Thanks for sharing this.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks!
Great stuff. I do enjoy using the Oilbrushers as they are very convenient.
Yes they are! I wish they were a bit less expensive for new artists trying to get into them but they sure do get the job done without having to thin much.
Been using this painting guide for my Gamma Galaxy bois, it's been great!
A few notes based on my personal experience: I avoided getting Valspar as previously mentioned, and got Rustoleum Apple Green (Satin, Color does not seem to exist in Matte). The paint is not as opaque as I'd hoped for, and needs to be applied a little on the thick side from the spray can. At some point, I'll see if there's a brush-on paint that will work better. Obviously, an airbrush cuts into that issue altogether.
Speaking of thick layers, when removing the silly putty, there tends to be a leftover "lip" of green that didn't 100% get removed, and I need to do some additional scraping off. Otherwise, when I do the khaki drybrush stage, the paint edges become much more pronounced and kinda icky looking. This is probably something only I noticed since I'm inspecting the minis up close, but you may not see it at a glance across the table.
One thing I'd recommend is to silly putty any gun barrels, missile launchers, or any other detail you'll paint silver/gunmetal. This will prevent making those sections extra bulky with thick paint layers and keep details showing through.
Overall, minor gripes and suggestions for improvements on the technique. As said before, this technique is great for painting up an awesome looking Jade Falcon collection. Thanks, B1bflyer!
Thanks for all the feedback on the different methods you used and their respective results. Rattle cans are a bit of a risk as some colors and brands act differently. Glad you were able to use it to help you out though!
@@CamoSpecsOnline I had a different result with the Rustoleum satin paint, it's still much too thick for what I was trying to accomplish. This paintjob convinced me to just get an airbrush and not take the risk again.
Just a tip... Go to your local big box hardware store and ask for "Duct Seal" its only $10 for i think 5lbs... It is a putty that does not harden also...
Really like your work on the new models man, keep it up!
Thank you, really appreciate your support!
Great stuff. Thanks for the video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hell yeah!
Superb! Respekt!
Thanks, i hope we can see even Aiden pryde schemes
Already did another Gamma/Pryde tutorial th-cam.com/video/vrql2s9Y4hc/w-d-xo.html
Damn fine work!
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Great job!
Thanks!
What is your palette paper? I've got a plastic color palette, but I'm curious about the paper option.
It's just an artist palette paper pad you can get from an art supply store or on amazon.com. I cut the full sheets into quarters so they're smaller and more manageable on my desk. www.amazon.com/Strathmore-365-9-Palette-Bound-Sheets/dp/B00CPD0O1U/ref=zg_bs_8090742011_1/142-2127320-0324234?pd_rd_i=B08BC1PVQW&psc=1
I just wanted to say.. I love your work and it inspired me to make a gamma army..
I only have one question..
I only have army painter paints.
Which colors of those are compared to the colors of which you've use in you're video?
I would try Army Green, (perhaps with just a bit of black mixed in), Skeleton Bone, Gun Metal (same AP name), Toxic Mist or Elemental Bolt (your preference), Pure Red, and Leather Brown
Thank you..
If you keep the putty this would pass as a Loki of Nurgle.
Another great video! Learning alot from these tutorials. I have a request, doubtful if you do it or not. But anyway I have a Nova I want to paint completely overheated, and I'm not sure how to go about painting an entire mech glowing like you did on the heat vent on the back of the mech?
First, glad you enjoy the content, thank you for the feedback. I'd suggest taking a look at Brushido's work on the website as he's the heat glow guru at CSO. He's also done more work akin to what you're trying to achieve with more than just the exhaust vents glowing.
Can you or anyone else suggest a specific makeup brush? Asking because those I have tried have either been too big or too soft to work very well.
Love your videos!!!!! Just did a mech using your GDL guide and it looks Great!
I ordered these last year and all but the longer ones are great for working with oils. You can also get some of the artists opus Dry brushes or Army Painter Drybrush set if you're wanting them for drybrushing. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1LIQUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's a weird question, can I reuse the silly putty after using it? I'm thinking of painting up a star like this
Absolutely. A lot of the paint will flake off, but you can just roll it around in your hands and it will work fine even with some paint bits in the mix.
Any chance we'll see a Clan Ghost Bear example? Would love to see your approach, especially their Alpha Galaxy colors or a snow camo
I'm working on some winter camo tutorials but nothing GB specific at the moment.