TMC2130 Guide - stepper motors driver upgrades part 3 - Sensorless homing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- Continuing the series on stepper motor driver upgrades for your 3D printer, I present another highly requested video: a complete guide to the TMC2130 on the MKS Gen L.
Like the TMC2100 and 2208, this driver offers very quiet operation with stealthchop. It can be used in standalone mode as a drop in replacement, but best option is to connect it to your mainboard via SPI and make dynamic changes to stepper current and stepper modes on the fly with gcode. The 2130 even supports sensorless homing like in the Prusa MK3.
This video guide takes you step by step through how to configure for both modes, including setting microstepping, VREF and any Marlin firmware changes. Featuring a step by step of how to create the necessary loom, it also guides you on setting up sensorless homing including how to tune the sensitivity. This guide is to suit an MKS Gen L mainboard I previously fitted to an Ender 3. There will be slight differences between 2130 board manufacturers but I’ve tried to account for those as much as possible.
After further (and longer) test prints, I will make a follow up comparison video of all of the these Trinamic options.
2130 FYSETC info: wiki.fysetc.com/TMC2130/
2130 Bigtreetech/BIQU info: www.biqu.equipment/products/b...
2130 datasheet: www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/as...
TMC Marlin reference: marlinfw.org/docs/hardware/tmc...
2100 / 2208 / 2130 comparison table: learn.watterott.com/silentste...
TMC2130 SPI to MKS Gen L wiring diagram: cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a6...
Creality3D v1.1.2 stock vref values github gist: gist.github.com/knoopx/e6c40a...
Purchase these drivers from the following links:
Amazon: amzn.to/2GPqHVX
Banggood: www.banggood.com/custlink/D3K...
eBay Aus (2130): ebay.to/2NxtnrW
Aliexpress (select 2130): s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bydGzszi
Dupont wiring kit Amazon ($12): amzn.to/2D9YI0w
Dupont crimping tool Amazon ($10): amzn.to/2RHBFhB
Dupont wiring kit Banggood ($9): bit.ly/2zAZVus
Dupont crimping tool Banggood ($11): bit.ly/2QnyWtw
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
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Great little series, thanks - practical measurements are always valuable, and it's very useful to have all the relevant information about these devices brought together, from the sea of datasheets and product web pages!
Absolutely fantastic. Great series, and highly informative. Not sure I’m personally ready to tackle such a project, but sensorless homing sounds super intriguing.
Thanks to your other setup video on Klipper/MKS-Gen-L-v1.0/TMC2208, and now this one on the TMC2130 though based on Marlin, I was able to setup my Klipper/MKS-Gen-L/TMC2130 for sensorless homing. On my system with a 25:1 gearing extruder, I achieve very smooth, fast and quiet operation with stealthchop on X, Y and Z, and spreadcycle on E. I could not have done it without your invaluable guides. My deepest gratitude.
This is the absolute clearest guide I’ve seen for these drivers. Thank you so much!
Great video pal, it has helped clear a lot of issues I've had understanding these steppers, I've watched countless videos and this is the best I've seen so far. Thanks
Great tutorial Michael. You have my heartfelt thanks for this one. The only reason I'm even considering upgrading my board and drivers (other than necessity after I let out the magic smoke from my original Creality mainboard) is that I have this step by step guide to follow. I did panic a bit when seeing the part about desoldering the R5 resistor on the BigTreeTech 2130s and setting the configuration solder bridges (CFG4 and CFG5) which as you point out, need magnification to see what is going on. Thankfully, the BigTreeTech TCM 2130s I purchased from Amazon in the UK included the Dupont cables and are already configured in SPI mode. (This is SKU:ZZB000213). So thankfully it is not quite such a battle to getting my printer back up and running. - I'm about half-way through so far...
Another great video. I was playing with these and hoped you would do a video. I bought the 2130’s configures for stand alone. Didn’t know any better at the time. I relocated the 4 pins to the top and removed the resistors and open the bridge. As with your 2208’s this is micro surgery. For those considering doing the mods yourself, I found solder wicking broad the best with the solder sucker as needed to maybe clean up an area. I have a magnifying headset so it looks very clear on my old eyes. The needle soldering iron tip looks like a 16 penny nail on the circuit board but this is half the fun. Thanks for going over the firmware changes Michael, I picked up some great info on my progress to get all this to work. 👍
Hey Michael, that is some amazing work you are doing there! I'm sure it took a lot of time to make the mods and this video. Thanks!
You have the best tech videos I've ever seen. Thorough, concise and accurate. Nicely done!
I'm so thankful for this latest video. I've purchased the MKS Gen L, MKS 28 TFT Screen and though I thought I had purchased the TMC2130's the supplier had sent me the TMC2100 Clones and had to reorder the correct one. I hope you intend on trying the MKS 28 TFT WIFI Module setup later on as using OctoPrint has been a real pain in the you know what. Great Video by the way. As per usual.
Hey Michael, I'd like to say how helpful i find your videos, I've learned lots about 3d priting from your channel.
If you are getting issues at one end of your leadscrew, you could remove it from the motor coupling and nut, then thread it in the other way around, your printer will not spend as much time at the very top of its travel so it could be an easy compromise.
Just finished doing this upgrade and have to say, it was very worthwhile. After completing it, the first job was to print a quick Benchy, and using the same GCODE I used when I first got the machine, the results are interesting - it's a much better print. Way less ringing and the curved faces on the sides of the bow are fantastic. The reduction in noise is worth the upgrade alone! (I now that can be achieved with other drivers too) I haven't yet implemented sensorless homing though - will do that next time I'm fiddling with the beast.
My upgrade path was entirely inspired by your videos Michael, thank you. So far I've done the MKS-GEN-L upgrade, BLTouch, Bullseye (soon to be replaced with a HeroMe) and the MKS TFT upgrade too...but, of all those, the TFT added the least value I think - it doesn't replace the functions of the OEM screen so you really need to keep that, but it does add some extra bling and convenience if you have a mind.
Cheers!
Thanks for a great video. Very detailed and well researched. I'm doing the same install right now on my Ender 3 with MKS Gen L, but I run Klipper, so I'm making sure I know what I'm going to put in printer.cfg before I start. I think I have it figured out. You should really consider doing a Klipper video!
Hi everyone, i have ender 3 too, and i upgrade my main board to mks gen L but i order bigtreetech's TMC2130 v1.1 and spi pins have both side(on 3:09),when i put the driver on mainboard a subtle high pitched sound comes from the motors and did not go until the printer was turned off. I have watched your video many times in carefully and when you installed the driver on the mainboard, that the spi pins were just up, and I cut the pins on the side of the motherboard, now running completely silently. Thank you so much for videos, you illuminate us every time.
Great series!!! Helped me a lot with my new hypercube evolution.
Hi Michael, great post and it helped me a lot, a question about sensorless homing, how is working for you after a number of weeks?, I found an issue in mine where when I home the x-y axis it randomly rams to thee right side rather than hit the left side. Does this mean the settings are two sensitive?
Great video series. I do feel that these are too many options now though. I've followed your videos and have done all upgrades possible with the melzi board (up to bl touch and filament run-out). I'd love to hear your recommendation on upgrading board and driver for the Ender 3 to a specific configuration helping me decide when the upgrade makes sense.
Great video thanks Michael finally got around to fitting my drivers that were gathering dust :) I used marlin 2.0 and they all wire to aux 2 by default so that made it even easier. I did find my motors getting quite hot though 50deg +. Reduced currents to xyz 500, e 600 (similar to the prusa I believe) and works great now, no skipped steps at 90mm/s.
I was running at around the same settings as you (discovered from trial and error) then watched his video and was like ok all my settings are wrong and changed to his. motors have been super hot. from my research online the TMC2130-2208 in stealth mode work best with 1.7a or more motors. all the ender 3 motors are 1.5a. not that big a deal as long as you dont have cheap .9amp motors..... setting my numbers back down to 500x/y 600z 650e. I do have a skr1.3 board on the way too. who knows how long that will take..........
nice vid, I havent long ago fitted 3x fysec 2130's to my kossel linear plus in hardware SPI mode (soldered extra servo pins in) I can confirm its a lot quieter and can confirm it does work ok despite the trigorrila board having no removable stepper jumpers, I think in the long term I will be moving to 32 bit marlin compatible solution - the only 2 issues I had were I had to drop acceleration values down to 1200 in stealthchop to prevent layer shifts - but I now suspect this could be cura setting jerk to 20, the other thing was a bit of a garbled display when the machine was idle for extended period of time, this is a random thing that is easily cleared by accessing the menu and doesnt seem to affect the prints -
Once again a great video there !
I believe it was not mentioned in the comments before but if to upgrade you stepper drivers you need to change your board, there is a very interesting board to consider which is the FYSETC F6, it's just a 8 bit board but the very nice feature is that the board is designed so you can use the advanced features of TMC2208/2130 (including sensorless homing) just by installing jumpers on the board so without any flying wires. It also has a bunch of output for fans and steppers.
I have this board with TMC2130 drivers on my CR-10 since September 2018 and it has performed flawlessly so far
Very interesting, if I ever need another board will definitely look at that. 6 driver slots and a seriously beefy bed mosfet too.
Really enjoy ur video about 3d printer and how to upgrade them
got an robo 3d r1 that I want to try an upgrade
First off, best easy to follow comprehensive guide, truly a remarkable jerb. I ordered a BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo with the TMC 2130 versions 3’s as a kit from the manufacturer on Amazon and they Look very different from the biqu ones you had demonstrated. All pins already soldered on, came with the SPI wiring harness, and there doesn’t appear to be anything to bridge solder or remove, heat sinks are solid And everything was straight and packaged nicely. I’m kind of wondering if those were rip off version 2’s or 1.1’s. The board layout is a little different too from what you demonstrated. The only thing on top are the pins, heat sink, and Vref adjuster for standalone.
This video deserved a like and subscribe. good job on the video.
Thanks again Mate, nice video. BTW I really like your Australian accent, kinda similar to Moog's from MightyCarMods
I bought big tree drivers from amazon (would not advise as the other ones have the board flipped for better cooling). my big tree drivers are working mks gen L 1.4 but I had to use pins 64 65 66 to get my displays to work. even trying the 2130 design that the marlin firmware links to continued to to not communicate. found those pins open and moved to those and worked right away. if you have all 00000 or fff's when running the diagnostic commands you are not communicating. this drove me crazy till I moved the pins.
Hi Michael, love the videos! Is it possible to buy your config files like you did for earlier videos for this set up?
I'm still a little scared of sensorless homing, given the slippage of the belts on the pulleys. I think I'll stick to microswitches and a BL Touch, thank you.
Great video though!
Well, after doing this, I'm actually starting to prefer my Ender 3 over other printers. It prints quite a bit better after this whole upgrade process. Perfect layers, super quiet (If you're not looking, you wouldn't know it was running), and much more reliable.
The only issue I had is that it's not clearly stated that you've got to go back to his original video of upgrading with Vanilla Marlin to actually do this. I figured it out only because it seemed like there was some instructions I missed because his Arduino looked different. It would be better if the entire process was in a seamless process. It was a bit aggravating having to bounce between different tabs and different videos to go over everything. Or at least link the videos in steps in teh description.
Hi,
Great Video.
I'm in the process of upgrading my board as well
Could you share the link where to buy the already made daisy chain wire ?
Once the board is changed or during the same time can I change the motors as well ?
Do you have any recommendation on what motors to get ?
Keep up your videos, they are great
Thank you
PC
Any updates on the Frankendoodle project? looking forward to the next step
On Marlin changes not taking: after upload you should give the machine an M502 command to load the settings compiled in to Marlin followed by an M500 to write the changes to firmware. In between the two command you might want to set other things, e.g. the Z-offset for machines that use it. My standard post firmware upload script (a feature of the OctoPrint firmware update plug-in) does this -- M502; M206 Y-4.00; M851 Z-1.95; M500; M117 Firmware updated
Thanks for doing real guides for open source, not the guides for "open source" like Duet.
Thank Michael, was looking forward to seeing this one on the 2130's as they are the option I was planning on using for my CR-10 mini's... do you feel the sensor less homing is more accurate? If not I think after watching your 3 part series that the 2130 is not necessary for me and i can save a few bucks and some wiring fun and go with one of the other options.
Great video!
But I have a question... Is it possible to do Standalone mode & Sensorless homing?
Hey they started releasing the TMC5160s.. are you going to do a video on those?
Excellent video. Will you please provide some information about wiring SKR V1.3 with TMC 2130 V1.1.
First, thanks for all your work Michael. Does anyone know if the stepstick "protectors" (that go between the drivers and the board) protect the drivers from current made by moving the bed while they're disabled/off? It seems they're diodes. If not, what are they good for, if anything? Thanks
If your having issues with the z axis lead screw a quick fix is to take it out and replace it the other way up, that way the damaged section will be at the top past the point you would usually use
First thank you for all the nice videos! I hope you read this, i like this video avec the tcm and the auto home feature. Do you think you could try this on the lowrider 2 cnc in place of the dual end stop?? Also i have an idea that may be it could be used to find the top of the material on the z axis?
You can fix the lead screw issue by flipping it around. At least the bottom would be fine then, of course the damage would still show when you print that high but at least the Benchy would look nice on these videos.
would love to see you try the ST820 stepper drivers a midpoint between 2100s and DRV8825
Hi Michael, great work again. Are you however sure that you have current set correctly in SPI mode? Based on my understanding you set RMS to 760mA. Because of granularity it translates to RMS=734mA and max. current 1035mA. (see 17:08) I have my setting much lower (600mA) to have max. current of 844mA, but I have troubles with layer shifts (I have to decrease jerk)
2130 heat problem solved....Got the problem sorted out I think. Drumroll please........... Stepper dampeners. Very Un dramatic. Swapped the Y motor between the reg and pro and remembered there was a dampener on the reg. The dampeners have a rubber center that did not allow any heat to dispurs. Where the stepper being directly connected transfered heat through the frame like a heatsink. Difference is about 10-20 degrees. Just pulled all the rest of the dampeners off the reg. And starting another print now.
So the zaxis does not have good connection with the frame at the bottom. Without the 2130's it's actually super loud if it was touching.... With the 2130's I think I'm gonna get some thermal pads and seat them under the stepper to help transfer heat away. Half tempted to put artic silver between the stepper motors and the bracket that holds them but they are cool enough now.
Weird thing is even the direct drive extruder motor is cooler on the pro and it's not touching metal. Like I said it had to of been the dampeners with their rubber core.
Thank you.
Great instruction, however, I couldn't understand why you entered VREF values for (X,Y,Z,E0)_CURRENT at 15:21. The comment states that line as RMS in mA, so I think we should have entered 0.596 for XYZ and 0.709 for E0 as calculated at 5:33.
Please note that the correct chip orientation is downwards. The TMC2130 chip is designed with a big cooling pad in the middle which is then cooled on the other side of the PCB. This means that the bigtreetech ones are actually not cooling the chip as efficient as the other one.
what did you set as "feedrate' and "acceleration" for your steppers motors?? I've been working on that for days and my motors are working far from well!! :(
I got the Bigtreetech (SKU: ZZB000213) TMC2130 set of 4 with the wires, it was a great value. Make sure to clean the top of the chip with IPA before you put the heat sink on (mine had some flux residue on the top of the driver chips). On my setup they are hanging upside down and I haven't had any problems with them falling off.
One thing that I noticed is that in spreadcycle, it is much louder than the Ender 3's original board (I'm using the MKS Gen L V1.0). In stealthchop it is super quiet, and it hasn't missed a step yet.
I've got this issue too, really annoying high pitch whine in spreadcycle, cause by cheap stepper motors I think. Apparently you can tweak the timings and hysteresis in marlin to tune it out but I haven't bothered because stealthchop works great.
there are settings to change this in TMC app note 001www.trinamic.com/fileadmin/assets/Support/Appnotes/AN001-SpreadCycle.pdf but ti also mentions that if holding still gives bad sound after some changes its due to bad pub layout. think this might be the issue with big trees steppers. speed cycle I could not get rid of this high pitch whine that was constant coming from stepper (only driver I wanted in speed cycle due to heat). even when it was not being used. drove me crazy to the point that I changed back to stealth chop.
@@shawnkratos1347 Strange thing with my setup is that the larger E stepper is perfectly quiet in stealthchop whereas the smaller X Y and Z are the ones making the din. I think you hit the nail with what you said earlier. There's a lot of conflicting info on the ratings of the motors. I think mine are 0.9A and the E is 1A maybe 1.5A as listed here gist.github.com/knoopx/e6c40a009e796203b93a75a3ed6a5ab8 That would certainly explain the noise in the XY and Z.
Great guide, thanks! I did the upgrade and the printer is so much quieter!
There is also a MKS GEN L v2.0, with this version the SPI and sensorless homing wiring is already on the PCB so no extra wires needed. You need to change the pins_MKS_GEN_L.h file to allocate the correct CS pins as follows:
#ifndef X_CS_PIN
#define X_CS_PIN 63
#endif
#ifndef Y_CS_PIN
#define Y_CS_PIN 64
#endif
#ifndef Z_CS_PIN
#define Z_CS_PIN 65
#endif
#ifndef E0_CS_PIN
#define E0_CS_PIN 66
#endif
#ifndef E1_CS_PIN
#define E1_CS_PIN 17
#endif
i just got a v2 board as well and have been trying to find info on it. thanks for this. quick question. for the sensorless homing, instead of soldering the pin facing up would i solder it facing down?
@Rob de Vries; mine came with all pins already soldered but yes, soldering the pin down will connect it to the header on the v2 board and that header will carry the sensorless homing signal. No need for any wires for that setup. If i remember correctly I didn't have to change any pin allocation in software, just place two jumpers in the correct position on the board. That jumper will connect the pin from the board to the standard end stop input signal connection.
Sheesh, so much work to get these into SPI mode.
I bought the BIGTREETECCH brand from Amazon and had the same issue you did with the heat sink sticking to the chip.
So, I bought some Artic Silver brand Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive 5g. It's a 2 part thermal GLUE (not paste). Meaning, the heat sinks are stuck and cannot be removed from the chips. (Great if worried about vibrations or if mounting the board vertically.)
If anyone follows this route, be sure you have all your soldering done and you have tested everything before gluing the heat sinks on. There is no turning back and taking it off without ruining the chip.
I was reading somewhere that some people will mix in a small amount of arctic alumina compound with the arctic alumina adhesive to make it less permanent. I have not tried this but I'm thinking of testing it out first.
@@AlphaCharlieFour Yeah. I read that too. How I justified it is the chips are $10 each. If I need to change them or something, I can buy more. :) I bought a set of genuine Trinamic TMC2130 already soldered correctly. I'm going to put them in another printer and see if they are any different/better. They ran $16 each but no heat sink included.
Interesting, I have had this set up for a few weeks now, I am using a lower rms value for my driver (0.65Ma) and my motors on the x and y get really hot where i cannot touch them for more than a few seconds. I feel as though ive tried everything short of removing the motor dampeners, hopefully contact with the frame will help with temps
Nice video!!
have you tried lower current. Apparently the prusa uses 400-500. I'm running 500 on xyz and 600 on the bigger e stepper and they're running at ~ 40deg.
Could you make a video about enabling sensorless homing on the skr mini e3?
Is the TMC2130 the best of the three compared, or were one of the others a better fit for the ender?
Nice work ... i Have Question !
i Have TMC 2130 SPI Mode .. this mode not need to adjust current By Avo ? Or multi Meter ?
Hey guys, if you, like me, upgraded your Ender 3 to the MKS Gen L AND also upgraded your motor drivers to 2130s, you might end up with your extruder not extruding. The reason is that in this extremely excellent tutorial, we wire up the 2130s to Aux 2 pins 63, 59, 40 and 64. The issue is that by default, pin 64 is NOT assigned to CS in pins_RAMPS.h. Even if you did copy in the Ender 3 sample config - that only reassigns X_CA_PIN and Y_CS_PIN. Z_CS PIN na d E0_CS_PIN are handled in pins_RAMPS.h, not pins_MKS_GEN_L.h
When I looked at M122 in Pronterface, I had all FF for E0. Changing the pin assignment in pins_RAMPS.h to 64 (from 42...) solved the problem.
I hope this helps!
Thing is, he doesn't connect to 64. He uses 42 for E0.
Now, I havent gotten a successful test of this setup yet other than just E0 reporting a hex ID. Right now I have 00 as ID for all 4 no matter what I try for pin settings. HW & SW SPI are giving me the same result.
Old Curmudgeon You’re right! I didn’t notice that he wired it in an L pattern like that, so I just went with a ‘square’ pattern, if that makes sense. At any rate, I ended up using the wrong pin and had to make the aforementioned change. If anyone else makes the same mistake, maybe this will be helpful. Thanks!
Hey, Thanks for best informative video. But I have an issue it is raterher with TMC2130 or MKS TFT32 display. Board MKS Gen 1.4 and LCD no effect on motors and anything. if previous Gen 1 firmware installed With no TMC2130 settings) controller and TFTLCD works. how ever it might be other settings but I did not understood. Any idea ? Thanks.
Hey,
I really appreciate your videos.
I have a question for you and I would like to know your opinion, so I am trying to upgrade my Geeetech A20T to add a 4th extruder. Do you think is possible to use a PWM pin on the GT2560 Board and configure the pins using the marlin firmware? So when update the printer using CURA to configure the 4th extruder and create the design with 4 extruder and the GCODE will then activate each extruder?
Hope this question make sense.
Thank you
How do I configure the microsteps? If in standalone mode the pins must be on top.
Could you do a video on ender 3 with the New Skr Mini e3 2209 - dual Z stepper and sonsorless homing :)
Is there a benefit from from running stepper dampers with a high end stepper driver like this?
Hello, great video. However, I'm having an issue. I've followed every step, and every wire setup. Yet, the x doesn't sense any collision, even on a setting of 0. And y gives a kill error when it senses anything, even vibration, even on a value of 8. Maybe it's different in my case, because you have 2130s for all 4 drivers, I'm only using 2 for x/y. Any suggestions? I only made changes for the x/y, and I have 2100s for z/e
I'm a bit confused on setting the voltage with the pots... We just need to use the values: .76 & .9?
thanks
Hey, love the videos keep them coming.
With the cost of the board / drivers and the setup needed would it be an idea to just jump to a 32 bit board with everything built in like the Duet Maestro? You are then future proofing yourself for newer versions of Marlin... I am on the fence with updating my ender 3 or jumping to something like the cr10s pro... is your review in the works? would love to hear your thoughts on it.
Some would argue that modular hardware is more future-proof than integrated hardware given the ease of part replacement since the modular hardware is specifically designed for that. Is Marlin abandoning its touted history of being open-source and platform-agnostic?
You mentioned in your video that the SPI Wiring Kit was available online. But you didn't mention where. I've looked for 3 weeks now and haven't been able to find any listings. I realize that it is possible to make your own wires and connectors up, But not all of us have the eyesight to do so. Where can one purchase the necessary wiring kit? I have the MKS Gen L, Mks 2.8TFT Screen with SD Card Support and MKS WIFI Module and am more than ready to get my TMC2130's wired up and ready to go.
Your opinion on TMC 5160? Would you do the upgrade?
Hi Michael would like to ask some help,bought the MKS Gen L board 3 pc 2130 but the guy in the store convince me to buy 3 pc 2130 and one pc MKS 8729 for the extruder. Now all the wiring is down by your video but what to do with the MKS 8729 driver?Can not wire to the loom as you show in the video.What to do?Could buy one more 2130 no problem,but could i use 8729 ?Thank you for your video and the name is perfect "Teaching Tech"
Hi,
thank you for all that information.
I just began to do some comparison between the TMC2100, TMC2208 and the TMC2130 by my own. Your series saved me much time. Once more thank you.
But please, can you turn off the music in the background of your video. This is a technical video and in my opinion it deiviates more than it is good for anything.
This is my personal opinion and never is intended to depreciate your good work.
Excelente video, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos, hice lo que se muestra pero tengo un problema al momento de compilar, espero me pueda ayudar gracias
sketch\Marlin_main.cpp: In function 'void homeaxis(AxisEnum)':
Marlin_main.cpp:3146: error: 'Z_HOME_BUMP_MM' was not declared in this scope
(axis == Z_AXIS && (Z_HOME_BUMP_MM)) ? MAX(Z_CLEARANCE_BETWEEN_PROBES, Z_HOME_BUMP_MM) :
^
exit status 1
'Z_HOME_BUMP_MM' was not declared in this scope
11:00 instead of cutting and twisting you can just bend and strip off the insulation . Flatten the bend with pliers and maybe strengthen with a dab of solder if neccessary. Cheers
FYI: My Bigtreetech came with the wiring harness already made.
Hi Michel , i have a question , have yuo ever test de hex code that put creallty in his website about the bltouch whit the ender 3? Its works whith all the original features or yuo loose resume or the sd card support?(good video be the way)
Do I need set voltage by this little screw in SPI mode? Or simply set it right only in marlin?
I have just got a SKR_e3_DIP with a set of TMC2130 drivers, I have moved the jumpers to the correct position, checked that the stepper drivers were configured for SPI mode. I was also expecting to have to make the connections for the SPI interface but cannot find any documentation on how this is done so made an assumption that the SPI interface is integrated to the main driver board headers.
I have followed the firmware guide step by step apart from the bit where the TMC library was installed (i was not sure if it was even possible) the firmware compiled fine so i made another assumption that Atom/Platform.io didn't need the library.
So 2.5 questions really...
do I need to make the external connections between the main board and the stepper drivers for the SPI interface on the SKR_e3_DIP?
do i need to install the TMC library to Atom/Platform.io? (and if so how)?
No pins facing UP, should I rip out the old soldering iron?
Would linear advance work on this driver?
Joke's on me. Mine are bigtreetech. Wish me luck. At least the kit came w/ jumper wires & SPI all ready to go.
Also, I'm going with software SPI to keep the OEM LCD screen for now.
Informative video once again. 👍👍💪
I brought the SPI big tree's and they've worked great for me. Only thing I did was remove the 4 upward facing pins and solder on new ones as they weren't really long enough and wanted them pointing out sideways instead. Good luck.
@@audaxxx4202 they used a double-ended header on that side. Those 4 pins face up & down. Rather not cut the down, but thinking I should.
@@OldCurmudgeon3DP Yeah mine were too. i'd definitely cut the down pins off if your using spi. If you leave them in then forget to remove the jumpers it might damage your board. They're useless in SPI mode anyway.
For some reason i cant get the extruder motor to turn, I switched the Z axis lead to the extruder and the motor turns just fine so its not the motor. I have the MKS 2.8 tft screen any if I try to load filament the motor does nothing., the extruder is off so there is no binding and it will not try to load filament till after the hot end is heated. any Ideas?
I think if you were to execute M502 - factory reset, it would pull the sensitivity values form the config otherwise, new firmware does not overwrite all of the previous values. And even if not used before those might be defaulted to 0 or (NULL).
Ohh and your MK GEN L v1.0 box is a real PITA to print , :) , on full go slow mode now and it's look good on layer 5, fingers crossed
foxabilo My experience is it printed quite well. I printed a bunch of Michaels parts and some came out bad and others said theirs were great. Right now my Ender is a test bed incapable of printing anything but it’s pad prints that are left on my desk. That’s by choice though, it’s my experimental machine. I have two Prusa’s to make parts in the mean time. My goal is to get the Ender to work with the same features as the Prusa. I don’t know what I’ll do with my time if I succeed!😂
@@heeder777 hahaha, it was the little side piece that lets you bolt the case to the front that my inexperienced printing failed at until now, I was determined not to use rafts or skirts, so I got one of the flexible stainless steel beds with... PEI? something like that, and at 60c and 210c its 61% done and looks great this time. I got my ender 3 a month ago and got hooked on Michael channel too! I just added duel extruder motors and a Y adaptor , poor old Z stepper is working over time. and yes 3d printing absorbs a huge amount of time, very relaxing to watch a good print though :)
Hi. Maybe you give advice, how cooldown stepper motors? I change motherboard to mks gen l, set TMC2130 and configure sensorless homming. But motors very hot, about 70 degrees, some times skipping steps on Y-axis. Current set like in video. Maybe reduce stepper current, or change steppers mod? Thx)
Would these same steps work on the Ender 5?
I just ordered one as my first 3D printer, and do think these upgrades would be fantastic.
Yes as long as you have the same board, you can't change stepper drivers on the stock board.
Hey Michael, the usual fantastic tutorial. This is the one I've really been looking forward to, the nerd in me really wants to have sensorless homing on the Borg. I would like to have a 32bit board for it too though, do you have any recomendations for one that will take the TMC2130s? I'm planning to do all this, and move the electronics to below the heatbed in one go, it's gonna be quite a project so will pre-plan and build as much as I can beforehand.
You might like to get the new electronics working off the printer first which is what I did in this series. I have a review printer coming with an MKS Robin board. It's 32 bit arm with stepper driver slots and a tough LCD option. Could be a goer.
@@TeachingTech I've never heard of that board before, looks like it may be a viable option. Looks like it is closed source though, wonder if other options would be possible. Looking forward to your views and opinions.
@@spikekent The newly released SKR V1.3 from BigTreeTech (BIQU) is a 32-bit board with TMC2130 support. I was fortunate enough to be in the early purchasers and have about a 6 week wait for it to arrive from China... Haven't tried it yet (obviously) but am working through this tutorial now that I have an MKS Gen L and the SPI configured BigTreeTech 2130s which don't need the solder reconfiguration and come with the cables...
@@dyeremergency5442 Thanks for posting. I'd never heard of those before so will be keeping my eye open for them. Appreciate the heads up.
@@TeachingTech, Dose not appear to support 2130's or LED's ????
Neat video, are you planning on making LV8729 or ST820? I'm really torn between those and TMCs 2130.
Lv8729 yes, not the other one.
Nice, I'm really looking forward to it!
Challenge - what do you do if you have a TFT35 connected to Aux 2. Re assigning pins seems to be an art. I cant even tell what pin numbers I have on my MKS Rumba+ Board.
Could you upload your configuration adv and configuration.h
OK people I have discovered something regarding heat. I have a regular ender 3 from their aliexpress store purchased over blackfriday deals. I also have an ender 3 pro ordered from com grow on amazon. both now have an MKS Gen L 1.4 with Bigtree TMC2130's. XYZ all set to 500ma and E0 at 600. exact same configuration file except for bl touch offset and bed 0,0 position as the pro now has a e3dv6 hotend. jerk 7 acceleration 400. So they are identical systems, identical hardware, identical settings, sliced with the exact same profile I built in S3d, (supposedly same exact steppers).... the ender 3 reg is still warm/hot at 500ma where the pro is cool. I just started/finished the rebuild of the pro and discovered this last night but it was late and didnt trust the rebuilt printer enough to let it run over night. just got home fired up another print, hour in and the pro is cool and the reg is hot. checked the motor numbers on the back and they are identical. clearly the insides of these motors are not the same. I hot this helps someone. right now my ender 3 reg is within operating temperature but id prefer to figure this out to get it cool like the pro.
just as a note he also has a pro int he video which explains why he has no problems. maybe the pros where made with better steppers even tho they are the same model. might swap the y motor on them and test my theory. idk when I will have time for this.
Now that I have this all working - MKS Gen L and these 2130s, I CANNOT BELIEVE HOW QUIET THEY ARE!!!!!! You seriously can’t hear the damn thing running sitting 3 feet away. Every once in a while a rapid move is audible, but that’s about it. Now I need to upgrade my fans...
can you please do this same video, same drivers but with the MKS SGEN_L v1.0 board? Please....
Can i use the mks tmc2209 driver on skr 1.3?
the driver from Bigtreetech are verry expensiv
and the mks tmc2209 are 32% cheaper.
Upgraded my Ender 3 to a BTT SKR V1.4 Turbo board with 2130 stepper drivers. Followed the videos from Teaching Tech but all of my motors only go in one direction. Moving any axis in - or + only moves that axis in one direction even after getting to the endstop. The only thing different from the video was when I was adjusting the stepper drivers with the voltage meter, I could never get it even close to the recommended settings of .76 or .9. My reading would only go up to .22 as the max. I'm very frustrated as my printer has been down for 8 months now and I can't figure this out. Any suggestions?
The "current" setting in Configuration_adv.h clearly says "rms current" in mA.
eg.
#define X_CURRENT 760 // rms current in mA. Multiply by 1.41 for peak current.
Why do you set this to the VRef voltage? Surely that's incorrect? This should be set to the rms current which is much lower than "760" at 596mA.
Am I missing something?
I've got to agree with Hannes - the numbers are wrong. When populating the current values in Marlin, it's asking for the RMS value in mA, not VREF. If we take the given values at 5:25 and take 90% of what's calculated, we'd end up with 536 and 638mA respectively.
Agree with Hannes and mysfiring. The current values will be 596mA and 709mA and 90% of that is 536mA for X,Y and Z and 638mA for the extruder.
Hannes, where is your 23 minute extremely detailed tutorial? Where is your part 1 and part 2? Don't be a dick, guy.
@@andrewbruce2034 hes not being rude, its important to point that out because if not will overheat the steppers and cause damage...sure saved me from over powering
@@mysfiring Thanks i set the numbers like the video and stepper motors got way too hot even with heat sinks on them i will back them down to 536 and 638
how to setup tmc 2130 on skr 1.3 for sensorless homing?
Nice guide!
I have the SKR Pro v1.1 with TMC2130 SPI and I get the following result:
Driver registers:
X 0xFF:FF:FF:FF Bad response
i got that fixed by in the" config advance" section in Marlin. disable Monitor_driver_status. hope it helps.
Hi, Thank you for the excellent Video. But I am a little confused now. On the skr 1.4 Turbo with TMC2130 SPI, do i also have to connect the wires? I dont find any informations on how to or if. Even not in the manual.
I had the same question - thats why i was looking here - hence I have connected Diag 1 to the signal pin for both X and Y and even with the sensitivity set to -10 the steeper motors still grind away. I am beginning to wonder if maybe it should be connected to Diag 0 or if the pin mapping is incorrect?
Re the above - forgot to say that is is also on the skr 1.4 Turbo with TMC2130 SPI
Kevin Dawson I now know a little bit more about this. The wires are only for other Boards. The SLR 1.4 Turbo works with SPI without them.
Looking at the specs for the stepper motor for the BMG it says 1.4A per phase and 2 phases, would I then use the 1.4a or 0.7a in your formulas? If using 1.4a I get 1.262 for 90% (Sounds a bit high?)
Hi! how about the spi wiring diagram fora a SKR DIP v1.1? Thanks!
I have an ender 5 plus with a skr 1.4 turbo and tmc2130 v3. Did you have some link to find rms or max for each motors? I didn't find anything :(
OK. Quick question : Why not use z sensor less homing in place of a BL Touch? I understand that it might be risky if the end is hot and pushes into the bed. However, if I am careful with that, I should be able to avoid the BL Touch.
What gauge wire are you using?