Oil Burner Primary Control and CAD Cell Operation and Troubleshooting!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2024
- In this HVAC Training Video, I show How the Oil Burner Works, How the Cadmium Sulfide Flame Detector (CAD Cell) Works, and How the Oil Primary Control (R8184 Protectorelay) Works. I go over the Electrical Troubleshooting with a Multimeter Reading Resistance Ohms and AC Voltage to Measure if the Components are Bad, Intermittently Working, or Functioning Properly. Supervision is needed by a licensed HVACR Tech while performing tasks as Experience and Apprenticeship garners Wisdom and Safety.
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Go figure!
I'm in school for HVACR right now, and I'm in the middle of learning about furnaces, boilers, etc. I go to search TH-cam for an Oil Furnace video, and lo and behold, Craig is at it again! 😆 You never cease to amaze me, bud. You're the best!
Keep up the good work!
You Are A Great Teacher Thank You For Your Time
Excellent video and very well explained. The world needs more You Tube videos like yours.
I work on a lot of oil burners in New Jersey. This was very informative. Thank you for doing this.
Thanks a lot Chris!
EXCELLENT Tutorial, Great job explaining to the common folk! I never knew these assemblies were so simple.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This helped me so much I've never worked on a heater before, this guide answered my problems.
Cant wait the the OIL BURNER SERVICE book!!!
Ha ha, there will be other books before that one comes out i think. It all takes time, thanks!
Terrific instructional video! You have a gift for teaching and dictation.
wow, interesting there partner first time I even heard of this oil burner, thank you for sharing! I hope you had a wonderful Christmas.
Yes Christmas was very nice and I spent a lot of time with the family. I hope you got to spend time with family and had a nice Christmas! Thanks Jimbola77!
Very helpful and informative. Thanks for the great videos!
Extremely good information here. Thank you.
Thanks for always showing such good videos!!
Thank you for watching!
First off I really like your videos, very informative.
Never forget to clean the end cone! So many plumbers put 80 hollows in everything and it gets coked up blocking the flame. Sometimes 2 minutes with a 7/16 can save a lot of trouble shooting. Keep up the great videos!
@nothingtoseehere Sorry but we oil guys are just drunks.......until AC season lol
@nothingtoseehere you don't have to do it all at once. Baby steps. I have faith lol. What area are you from. I'm in nj and my old service manager called me yesterday. He is pretty desperate for bodies. Just a thought
@nothingtoseehere Not a problem. You would be surprised how hard it is to find someone with a head on there shoulders that is willing to get dirty. Remember with oil, especially up there where it's colder, your vacuum gauge is your friend!
Great video, tons of important info and hands on. I'm a retired vet now, ex-mechanic, electrician, engineer, construction worker and such, so love to do all my own repairs and maintenance. Got this 20yr old (according to the maintenance sheet on the wall) Wayne oil furnace I've been trying to troubleshoot and this is the most in depth video I could find. Needed info about the cad cell readings on the multi-meter for a go and no go answer. Thank you for the valuable information, from a grateful veteran.
Glad to help and thank you very much for serving our country!
@@acservicetechchannel Appreciate that very much :-)
Awesome description and video ,thanks.
Thanks William!
Thank you again for helping me advance in my knowledge!
Thank you for your support!!
Excelente explicación, muchas gracias.
Thank you. I was able to diagnose why my new honeywell wouldn't start and it was because I didn't connect the two screws with a wire lol. Thank you for the explanation!
Great info. Thanks. Great teacher too.
Thanks a lot Brian!
Nice video please continue the bench testing of equipment
Nice job. Please keep up the great video's.
Thanks a lot Waterman!
Awesome information, Thanks
Nice vid Craig. Thanks.
Thanks a lot Nick!
More oil!! I’m new and I know very little about oil. Steve L and Gray do a great job. But more material is always better.
Great video. Worked on hundreds of these. I didn’t like those solid state transformers. Always used the old style.
Please make more videos like this.
Great video
Thank you for watching
I love watching your video. Very well explained and very informative. Can you please show more video on troubleshooting oil furnace..Also can you show how to install honeywell primary control modelR72841004
Thank you for an excellent explanation. 1.1 kOhms or 1100 Ohms, but not 1100 kOhms as you state.
Very helpful information. When did the Beckett oil burners begin using the oil pump solenoids?
We still the old system and still works great lost the mother board inside the flame control box but its
Common the box was almost 9 years old I work on my own furnace and have been since I was 14 never have ever had a problem
👍 thumb up for the video and effort to explain!
shoot! If I'd have watched this I wouldn't have to go to skool to learn all this!
Are you sure step-up tranny is20KV output not just 10K? If I remember correctly, gas appliances uses higher than oil kv output to ignite fuel; Inwork mostly on commercial oil burners where transformers are just 6Kv output .
They were 10kv but came out few yrs back with just 6kv output .
Becket have 10 or 15kv if I am not mistaken!
But hey, you r the hero here, spending time showing something I had to pay for!
Much appreciated!
Wow good info
Craig, Would you do a short video on a 30lbs. cylinder as to how many cubic inches(volume) are the industry standard for the cylinder, and what does the empty cylinder weight? As always thanks for your fine teaches on your videos.
Thanks!!!!!
Thanks Xtreme Comfort!
Thank you for the valuable information, I didn’t know anything about oil furnaces. Where can I fine the order of operation for oil furnace? Like how I would fine with gas furnace?
Great video! Ever think of doing a Beckett with the Genisys primary controller?
I may in the future, thanks!
Great video,have a mobile home had problems with furnace from repairman worked on it, have some experience with furnaces,( I am a home owner) rebuilt furnace,reset electrodes ,put in new nozzle and adjusted it,and new pump, everything runs good,with cold weather upon us turned thermostat 2 wire to 68-69 furnace runs and after cycle shuts off and about 1/2 when room cools down comes on again and heat good,Now when turning up thermostat to 70-71 the furnace runs heats up rooms ,shuts down but then comes right back on in about 15-20 minutes ,all the time ,turn it back down and it run like before ,Question is this normal or is it in thermostat or primary unit, appreciate the help
Hi, I am curious, if the aquastat has a bad relay will it trip the red reset button on the oil burner? Thank you for posting these educational videos.
Oil spays into the chamber, not the heat exchanger.
spewinng oil would be into the combustion chamber. But that sort of is part of the exchanger in a sense.
How to decide which new primary to buy? The ones with displays and diagnostic codes are actually less expensive!
How to decide which lockout time to use: 15 seconds or 30 seconds or 45 seconds?
Just ordered your book and cards. I've been doing HVAC for a year now. But this my first winter and I still have a lot to learn on electric heat strips, sequencers, etc. I understand most of it but I still find myself running into older units that look different and sometimes it just looks like a big pile of wires going everywhere lol is there any way yall can do a video on older or more complex electric heat strips?
Thanks for your purchase and please let me know what you think of the book after reading it! Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see. So far, i did do one video on how older heat strips work. th-cam.com/video/7_-x6u9uzhU/w-d-xo.html
Hello, I've recently picked up a Nest thermostat and need to use one of their Nest Power Connectors to my furnace, i have the Becket burner and Honeywell as in your video, but I don't know where to insert the Nest Power Connector.
How would one wire this unit with a fancier thermostat to allow just the blower to run when heat was wanted ?
Question,just redone my furnace in our mobile home,new nozzle ,electrodes and fuel pump and set correctly,everything runs great, Q,how long should it be between time furnace stops and blower comes on
Can you do a video presentation on Carlin retro fit gas burners
My furnace is only 2 years old, the cad is clean. My burner turns on for 30 seconds and then it turns off. Then white smoke comes out of the burner.
My burner would run for a minute then shut off. Good oil flow, good flame. Weird. Cad cell was clean. I was about to bypass the cad cell and noticed its screw terminals on the controller were loose. Tightened them and burner is running.
Whew, very relieved. I guess they got loose from the motor vibration.
I'm only seeing ohms when I shine light on cad cell. Other than that is nothing. Which is just a 1 on my screen
And when it saw light the reading went from 1900 on down. Direct light took it down low enough to beep
Question,just got done installing new nozzle, electrodes and pump, furnace runs great, and blow nice hot air( not like before) but now it seem it dose not kick in as often as before when temp drops in room but it dose come on ,is this a calibration issue or is because it’s blowing hot air and takes more time to cool down for thermastat
Thanks for all your awesome training videos! I would like to know if you have a preferred wire termination method for high amperage incoming field wiring to the electric furnace. Say for like stranded #4/2 w G AWG or #6/2 w G AWG, do you use heavy duty barrel crimpers or split bolts?
I prefer split bolts but often you can get them directly into the lugs depending on the size, thanks
AC Service Tech LLC thank you
At 5:48 he says that " ........It is reading, one point one, kilo-ohms, so eleven hundred kilo ohms while it is running,.........."
The first part should be," .......it is reading one point one, mega-ohms so eleven hundred kilo ohms..................."
Also at 9:39, he says that the orange wire is sending 120 volts to the three wires, the motor, the transformer, and the
solenoid...."
Logically speaking the solenoid controlling the fuel valve should have a slight delay with respect to the motor start, so that the fuel pump would have reached the highest pressure and it will spray well rather than dribble during the transient of the start of the motor. when the pump is not producing its highest set pressure.
Switching off the motor and the fuel valve at the same time is fine, as the fuel will be cut off and no dribbling takes place during the slowing down transient when the pump is not producing its highest set pressure.
When replacing the 7505 is it plug and play or do you have to program it?
Hello I have a Beckett oil furnace that fires and shuts off after time out ! I’ve changed the filter and checked the cad cell with no luck , any thoughts ?
I have a question One of my igniters porcelain has a crack the length of it could that be a problem? And maybe why it's cycling over and over?
Great video helps a lot,I just replaced pump and coupling ,new electrodes, and nozzle,heats and run nice ,question, when thermostat,( 2 wire manual) is set at say 65 and furnace runs ,after shut down it seems to get cooler in mobile home before furnace kicks on again ,is that in some kind of calibration
I have a Beckett af11 in my shop on a radiant tube. Been using it for 8 years but have a issue with the post time cutout. It’s set for 4 min but only runs 15 secs after thermostat stops calling for heat. Any ideas?
I have the same Beckett/Honeywell setup. Solid red light. CAD cell is within limits, when red reset button is pressed, the fan/pump/transformer does not come on. Reset button will not stay down. 120V coming off orange wire. Should I be suspecting that the Honeywell unit is bad? Or start thinking that one of the 3 things that are being fed power (fan/pump motor, transformer or solenoid) bad?
Great video and detail Oil Burner . Thank you for sharing ^_^. I want to ask you something, what's different between expensive and cheaper price Multi meter ? I'm on a market for buy first Multimeter. Thank you.
The UEI meters I use are True RMS so they are usefull for measuring things like dc micro amps. You don't need an expensive meter but one that includes capacitance. The DL 479 and higher would work. I used to use the DL389 and that worked very well too. I use the ST4 for single and dual temp readings. I have the tools i use linked at www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech thanks!
What if you turn your thermostat on but your furnace does not respond. I have to reset the furnace to get it to turn on. It won't kick on automatically when the temperature drops below what I set it on.
Help me please. I have a hallmark oil furnace, soon I'm going to install Evap coil on top of it the AC. I want to know how the low volt wire has to be wired. Oil has a transformer on it with R, C, W, G, Y. And the T-stat has only 2 wire into it. Can you help me with the wire when it's calling Ac for the fan and the condenser to kick on please?
I can't find any information on this but it seems like from your video I need to jump tt on an 8184g even with a triple aquastat so the safety switch functions. Is that correct? Thanks
Do you still use the 8184G? I prefer the 7284U for several reasons. Do you have any thoughts regarding the 7284U?
On my newly installed "Oil primary control", the red-button won't stay clicked down. It keeps popping back up. And obviously, the heater shuts right off. It does this within seconds lately. Wondering what it could be. Can't seem to get ahold of the person who recently installed the "Oil Primary Control".
Hi. Do can cad cells still function but be less efficient when they get old? My furnace runs if I shine a flashlight on the cell, but the furnace locks out when installed.
Help my oil furnace is not staying lite the flame turns on and off like its cycling if I turn thermostat up way high it stays lite for a bit longer bit only for a short time then back to on and off
I know this video is older but hope you see this.i have the same set up. But my furnace fires on and off rapidly. I replaced the cad sensor. Wanted to test it so I hooked up an external one and while the furnace is running I shine a flashlight on the sensor and it turns off thr furnace? Also if if I disconnect the sensor the furnace runs fine till it trips. Any ideas?
Beckett oil primary control
So i have an older version of the burner abkne. The reset butten is pressed in, but the burner will not light. The cad sensor is testing OL. Im not getting any voltage through the switch either. Any ideas?
It was working just fine 3 days. So i thought it ran out of fuel, but we put some more in and it is not even attempting to light to let me bleed the system
I have heard that the transformer sends 10k volts to the spark igniter. Is it 20k? Are not all oil furnace transformers the same? Also what happens if you put in the wrong size nozzle in an oil furnace?
The older wound transformers are usually 10,000 to 12,000 volts and these electronic transformers have a peak voltage rating of 20,000 to try to help with full ignition of the oil. The nozzle size has to do with gpm flow which has to due with how many BTU/hr is needed for the furnace. You want to make sure to not overfire a furnace especially a forced air furnace since it needs to maintain a supply temp while the blower rejects the heat into the building, thanks!
I've got 118v in, but no power coming out. What are possible causes? CAD cell is good.
This morning there was a chill in my house. I woke up to an “erratic buzzing” sound coming from the oil furnace. It was not running, but I believe calling for heat. I could feel a vibration that was in sync with the noise coming from the plastic box of the control unit when I placed my fingers on it.
I shut the power off to the unit and checked all the wiring, oil supply tank and opened up my Honeywell control box, same as featured in the video, nothing was discovered out of sorts. The coil inside the control box with the contact set looked fine and floated as freely in place.
I cleaned the contacts and reassembled everything and the same erratic buzzing continued.
The electric motor spins freely, the igniter and CAD cell are less then a year old.
Has the control unit gone bad? This would be a $110 “guess” to just try a new control unit. How could I verify its failed or what else could the problem be? Thank you and EXCELLENT video!!
Cap or contacts in motor are bad. Cad relay can stick, and tapping or flipping over might get it to work.
@@CL-ty6wp The CAD went bad. I happened to have an old one laying around and tried it just for shits and giggles. I’ve never had one act like that before.
have oil furnace t
That keeps blowing cad cells
Craig, do you prefer Beckett or Riello?
Hey thank you for the video! But I need some help! I have a beckett oil burner and I ran out of oil but I just filled it back up with diesel and I usually hit the reset button and bleed the air out.
But my problem is, the reset button pops up when I turn the heat on, but it won’t send oil through the lines and won’t try to start up, it just makes a buzzing sound when I hit it, and then once it goes through the cycle it pops back up.
What is going on?
Pump or clogged filter be good guess
Can't use the reset button - it is non functional - whats wrong; how can I reset it so it will work again?
Just to confirm, I should be getting some resistance even if the CAD cell is in total darkness correct? If not it's busted right?
MontyKensicle, You should be getting between 1 and 2 mega-ohms in total darkness, so it is not " getting some resistance", but a lot of resistance.
I've never seen a solenoid with that primary control. Do you just wire the solenoid in series with the transformer?
Yes Kyle
In parallel!
At 3:17 you illustrate that you removed one of the yellow CAD cell wires from the control. Which wire? Does it make any difference? Also, I am trying to figure if a CAD cell malfuction can be dangerous. Right now I'm thinking if the cell always reads high and does not respond to light the worst thing that can happen is the burner will turn off after so many seconds thinking that there has been no ignition. If the cell reads too low the burner won't start. Both non-working conditions but not dangerous.
no difference and correct on sensor function.
All the yellows due is read resistance (ohms) not powered
Great presentation, the thing i was searching for is why is my furnace was cutting out the safety button. It fires, but Knowing the ohms is relevant but in my case when you said or something causing it to trip or cut is the real problem. So my question is the cause rather than light, or flame out, or light seeping in thru a loose box hole, or crack, " poor flame", or lots of smoke. A dirty chamber or obstructed vent. Is this true? will a high ohms condition due to smoke cut the unit out? Thank You.
A year later and i am not sure why I would patronize your channel...?
The guy has a life, he can't answer every damn comment.. not to mention your comment was all gibberish
@@SaltMinerOU812 get real. It's what should be done on here fool.
@@SaltMinerOU812 Did you get a basic education? It seems you are tender.
@@pauliekruger7639 after reading your comment, that's some good projection there buckwheat
I have a question 🤔 I obviously know nothing about hvac or boilers ect, but I do love electronics and electrical engineering,
anyway according to your wiring, it seems to have the the electronic transformer that sparks the fuel is always running when the boiler is running, is there a reason?
P.S. my comment was supposed to in a different video you made on how to wire a primary controller, my phone went to the next video,
When boiler is running it is constantly feeding oil that needs ignition or it'll fill with unburnt oil, make stinky mess😘
@@TheodoreHuckstable-lb1uy aww ok, I was thinking once it sparked it kept lit, I forgot all about this so I never asked about it again.. Interesting Thanks for the reply and a kiss lol 😘
Can you do a video on White Rogers Zone Valves
Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
If I received one, I likely would, thanks!
how are you sir, greetings my name is Mr Ratman from PT Indira Dwi Mitra wrong
I am interested in the burner product, do you have a distributor in Indonesia?
If my "Oil primary control" device's red-button keeps popping up, would it be safe for me to sit a long heavy pair of pliers on top of the red-button..?, so it doesn't immediately pop back up after the furnace goes on..?
When I press it in,it clicks down fine,but then,after I close the furnace door,and turn the locking knob of the furnace door,which keeps the furnace door closed, the red-button pops back up after the furnace runs for a mere 5-10 seconds. It just shuts right down, obviously at that Moment. That's why I'm wondering, if I could just sit those long heavy pliers on top of the red-button..? Would that be an easy hack Fix Solution..? Or would that be too Dangerous and Risky..? 🤔
Surely, you're joking, but if you aren't, PLEASE READ THIS: DO NOT EVER consider doing that unless you want to risk burning your house down, potentially killing your family in the process. That RED button is telling you that something is WRONG with your boiler, (or oil furnace). If you watched his video, you'd know that he specifically said, DO NOT KEEP PRESSING THAT RED BUTTON DOWN, if it keeps popping back up, it means something is wrong! Go back and watch the video again.
I didn't see the oil burner electrodes settings in your videos. Would like to see how you set electrodes, burner head, by using the electrodes gauge or gauges.
th-cam.com/video/Ci6bygNHgzQ/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sir.
Get a Beckett Z Gauge. Makes this very easy.
My oil furnace one day stopped working, doesn't start. Oil pressure ok. But I changed the oil filter and nozzle. Again oil pressure ok. Again oil furnace doesn't start. Check the spark it's ok. Again oil furnace won't start. Check the peephole to see if I’m getting spark, no spark. Replace the cad cell and transformer. But I get a spark when I took the nozzle/electrode out of the burner head. So I left the peephole open, guess what? The furnace started. This is completely the opposite of what the cad cell does. I double-check the cad cell, high resistance with no light, low resistance with light. Again cad cell is brand new. The oil furnace only starts with the peephole open, then I close the peephole and it runs great, very smooth. But won’t start up the next time the thermostats want heat on. What’s going on???
I thought you couldn't test ohms with power on?
I'm a Journeyman HVAC tech working with more gas/electric furnaces over 20 years. The unit does not sense the flame and locks out. I ohmed and cleaned cell. No change. Replaced cell and wire. Same thing. It keeps running only when I wait then jump F-F. It does not attempt to run as expected if I jump first. It seems it is the flame itself. I have a new primary R7284U to replace R8184G. What are your thoughts?
Looking atthe flame
th-cam.com/video/KgO96Heecak/w-d-xo.html
retention head sooted up blocking light? Light on ohms i think should be around 200. I think over 1200 it gets sketchy.
@@CL-ty6wp Thanks.
All the parts for my burner are new the cad cell the electros the nozzle holder the controler the transformer and my burner still shuts off after 50 sec what could be the problem?
Did you ever find out what the problem was? Filter maybe
I have a problem that I think is a bad controller. Sometimes, most times right now, the burner doesnt turn on and then the fan comes on and blows cold air. I can hear that when the thermostat calls for heat I am not hearing the relay in the control click. The reset button is not tripped. If I tap the side of the control, instantly I hear the relay click and the burner fires right up. So, sounds like the relay inside the control is sticking. I am thinking of just replacing the control. Any thoughts from any of you guys out there?
Yea sounds like your control is going bad. The points are probably dirty or worn out. You can open it up and check.
@@patrickford5409 Thanks for the reply. I ending replacing the control and it solved the problem.
bad relay in the box. Very common symptom and quick fix to get running.
Just throw a 7284u primary on and call it a day
hi i am Paulino matos and i live in new jersey. I've been working around this industry for about 10 years but i want to know how to get a STC Certificate and a 608 EPA Universal license. And also how to get a certificate for plumper. do you guys have like a course i can take so you guys can help me get a certificate and tell me how much it cost. please contact me
EPA 608 cert is done through epatest.com and escoinst.com through certified testing locations. You can look up the testing locations through their site. You can also buy a epa 608 test prep and test through a local supply house, thanks!
Thank you. But now my head hurts. I'm a CIO in Information technology services. I can't stand working on my boiler nor my cars nor my lawnmowers. You need to charge more money for your Services, but not to the poor, as we do.
I am a system engineer for IT and want you to know you are not alone. I have never met a CIO that actually understood technology.
lost cant follow............