Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Intermittent Ignition Oil Primary Control by ICM- amzn.to/2AGvcPi Nitrile Gloves 100pk - amzn.to/2jG2rHS Cad Cell with Bracket by Beckett 7006U- amzn.to/2jGajJk Beckett 51771u Electronic Ignitor with "A" base- amzn.to/2ib22N8 Ignition Transformer "Allanson 2721-628G"- amzn.to/2noADwD Multipurpose Electrode Gap Gauge by Beckett- amzn.to/2AqavV5 Beckett Z2000u Gauge Kit "Z" for setting electrode gap- amzn.to/2jFuPd2 Here is the Link for the UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Here is the Link for the UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper- amzn.to/2dGTj2V Here is a link to the Stanley 6 in 1 screwdriver- amzn.to/2x7NuaZ Other tool links can be found in the video description section. ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon. All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
You told me things they never taught me after 2 training classes- Thank You! You definitely understand T-shooting unlike many Techs who are monkey see monkey do.
This video saved me $600 and a week of waiting in the cold for a service tech in northern california, where almost nobody is qualified to work on oil burners.
Excellent video. It ALMOST makes me want to return to the east coast where I used to work on oil-burning furnaces and water heaters. I don’t miss it a bit. :) Funny. I had one call for an oil burning furnace not working. Customer complained entire house stunk of exhaust. When I smelled it, it was like there was a Mack truck idling down in the basement. Turns out customer purchased a new couch that sat very low to the carpet (very small legs). They put it over their cold air return in the family room causing a vacuum in the basement-a vaccuum pulling on the exhaust damper! We ended up having some custom legs made for the customer to raise the couch to allow air to enter unrestricted into the return. One thing I’ll never forget was how it could suck closed the door to the basement and slam it pretty hard. That’s how tight the house was and strength of the vacuum created.
Great job. Very easy to watch and listen to. The video was well done and we could see all the wiring etc. We used it to troubleshoot and found that we needed a new transformer. Just finished installing it and cleaning the nozzle, screen etc and the furnace is now purring like a kitten. Thanks so much.
...Yep electrode was gone...needed your video...surely after powering up ...no spark at the tips... made a new one with an old one and we have LiftOff...!!! Thank You for all this...
If you are working on a real nasty one it’s safer to use a flare nut wrench on that fuel line. You can get a cheap imported set from any chain auto parts store for like $12 and it’s just a little bit more secure. Great video helped me a lot
bought a brand new one, since the one i had was basically 25 years old. And it was so well built i only had to hook up 4 hours and it was clearly marked.
Thank you for the great video, I knew my Teledyne pool heater was getting fuel and air, it just would not fire up. watched the video and was able to get up and running after disassembling and cleaning the jets.
Spark at the springs (alligator clip) seemed weaker than how it looked in the video, but when I performed the 'trick' at 8:15 spark at the nozzle looked fine. While I was in there I hit the conductors with steel wool. Put everything back together and it fired up. Not sure what did the trick but thank you for the troubleshooting tips.
Like your videos. Precise and concise without background music/noise. Do you happen to know the resistance between the two primary leads of the electronic igniter (Beckett 746001)? I bought a new Beckett electronic igniter but the resistance between the two primary leads is infinity. Is it normal? It wouldn't make sense if it were a iron core transformer but not sure about electronic transformer. The resistance between the two secondary leads (springs) is somewhere around 4 ohms, which makes sense.
One of my igniters has a crack from one end to the other could that cause cycling? I'm planning on replacing the nozzle CAD cell and definitely the igniter since I was wondering if that crack was a problem
Great video sir! Just went and tested mine like you suggested, and my spark seemed to be a lot weaker than what yours looked like. What would be the reason for a weak spark? Thank you again.
I am thinking of using an oil furnace transformer to create a spark for theatrical purposes. However, I would need to run something like 25 feet of cord from the transformer to where I want the spark to occur. Is this possible and if so what type of wire should be used for this?
Thanks for the video. The spark I am getting from my contact springs is very small. My furnace usually runs, but periodically won't start unless I press the reset button. Any idea what the issue could be? I've cleaned the nozzle and checked the electrode position - both seem fine. My contact springs do seem somewhat corroded though, could that be causing it?
My relay doesn’t have a wire attached to the T T…..and keeps tripping off at times. At times it trips off, but stays on for two or three days that my relay does not have a wire connecting to both T and T does it need it in order to run correctly?
I installed a new transformer, non electronic model, but found issues when I used the front foam gasket.I was getting an occasional reset of the burner control. I discarded it and it has not reset since. Thinking my heating system was designed in the 60`s might not handle these newer 3000 plus rpm motors.The real problem was that my gas water heater was connected to the same flue pipe as the burner.
I measured 30 volts where the thermostat connects to the Honeywell R8184G relay control. Does the transformer that controls the furnace blower supply power to that Honeywell R8184G or is does a different transformer supply power to it? My heat pump is controlled by a different thermostat. Was wondering if I need to run one wire from the heat pump to Honeywell R8184G to pull the relay in so it turns on the oil furnace when it's to cold for the heat pump to operate? Also assuming the transformer that supplies power to heat pump thermostat and heat pump controls also supplies power to the Honeywell R8184G?
My oil furnace shuts down and black smoke rolls out by ignitor assembly. it does it intermittently. Help? We replace nozzle but not sure size is correct, changed air filter, oil filter, and fire looks good.
You did a good test to show a good igniter, but you have failed to show how to test for a no spark from the igniter. Could it be the controller or the igniter, how do you tell.
Hey Allen, there is only two wires going into the spark module or spark transformer. If you have power in but no spark across the alligator clip when testing when the cad cell is covered then it is a bad spark module or spark transformer, thanks
Does the transformer/spark stay active during the burn cycle, or just long enough for the spray pattern to ignite and be recognized by the cad cell? Thank you.
My oil water heater recently has a problem. It does not turn on when the water drops to certain temperature. But when I press the reset button, it turns on and will heat the water to the preset temperature and only does it once. I am suspecting the aquastat is not working propertly. Am I right in this regard?
What ever that box is called with the reset button mine seems to be clicking more the normal like a solenoid clicking noise last night the heat was off I tapped on the box and the heat went out I’m assuming the contacts might be bad what’s that box called ?
Any thoughts on what would make the transformer spark go away intermittently? When burner starts to stumble i Iift the transformer slightly off of the springs and there is no arc from springs to electrodes. I cut power at wall switch. If I don't cut power primary control will trip. Changed primary control and transformer and cad.Thoughts?
Does this mean that the electrodes are sparking at all times as long as the burner is burning? I thought that the spark only ignited the flame and then after some 15 seconds it stopped sparking.
That's correct, it is the primary control that tells the transformer to spark! Once you achieve combustion with atomized fuel / air mixture the spark is no longer needed. The motor shuts down and the control goes into reset if the cadmium sulfide eye fails to see sufficient light. This means that if the flame is dirty enough it will shut down due to poor fuel / air mixture.
Great video. I’m always so afraid to move the electrodes so I don’t change the gap. Cool to know there’s a $4 gauge on Amazon that I can buy!!! Thanks.
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
I was wondering if you could answer a question. My weil mclain boilers primary controller doesn't supply enough power to the blue ignition wire. (.3 of an Amp) motor, selenoid both have 120 and cad cell is disconnected. Is there anything that may prevent power from going through the ignition wire. Also is it safe to use a intermittent primary controller which combines the motor, oil valve selonoid and ignition wires together instead of a controller that activates them separately. (temporary fix) Thanks in advance.
@@marksteven3534 I'm 65, been a jet eng. mech my whole life, and can't stand those stupid gloves. (Like taking a shower in a raincoat). I remember when they came on the scene...maybe 15-20 yrs ago? Money is being made, is why they're being promoted. (Like wearing these stupid masks.) If your hands get dirty, when you're done, wash them with Go-Jo. W/O gloves, at least you can feel what you're holding, and don't have-ta worry about pinching them. But I'm sure there are those who don't like dirty hands. I call it the "pussification" of America. (But hey, that's just me. What do I know.)
My 30 year old burner was shutting down every few days and sometimes would take several seconds to ignite. Could not figure out why. Good oil flow, new nozzle and electrodes. Replaced old transformer with a new Beckett electronic igniter for $50. Problem solved! Now she fires up instantly. The electronic igniters have much higher voltage.
completely broke and have no heat , 17 f tonite ... have good flame but wont stay running , any way to jump out cad cell so stays on ?? i know, i know .... ill keep an eye on it . have no other options . starts and runs good , shuts off after 30 seconds or so , everything else seems fine ...
It is to simulate calling for heat. If you're burner is hooked up to your boiler and you have your thermostat connected and calling for heat then you should not need to do this jump.
My tenant says the furnace is making a “womp, womp, womp, womp” sound before infighting? I’ve yet to hear it when I’m there. She said it usually happens 1st thing in morning when she turns the heat up. Any ideas what could make that sound? I changed nozzle and filter today. Seems to run just fine. She said the noise sounds like a washing machine? Weird
I get a spark without disconnecting one of the cad cell wires. Right now my furnace will not run and the reset button is not working (is not "popped" out - pushing it does nothing).
Can't find solution : Riello F40 oil boiler starts (air, fuel, spark) yet only runs for 1-2 secs. Then upon second attempt (ignition) it stays running fine. Sometimes, it takes a third attempt to run properly. Sounds like the flame goes out almost instantly.
Yep, learned the hard way to not use a meter/test leads that aren't rated for the voltage. Meter and leads were fine afterwards, but I received a physically unpleasant sensation. "OKAY, not doing that again!"
Yeah don't try to measure it, just check the gap by placing an alligator clip on one spring or clip with the power off and then disconnect one cad cell wire to test spark, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Several other things leading up to that "snake bit" furnace story, but the moral is "don't get frustrated and do something stupid." I've never felt a meter buzz and be shocked through the leads before.
Great video!! I was hoping you could lend your expertise in a little dilemma that I have had this passed Thursday... so I called my oil company to come and do the routine maintenance of cleaning the furnace, changinging thr filter.. etc?Was quoted 149.00 for the routine maintenance.The technicncian told me I needed a new igniter.. that mine was weak... I agreed and the final cost was 450.00. My heat was then turned off because it was a fairly warm day.. had dinner, went to do dishes and BAM... we have no hot water now( our hot water is powered by the furnace just as our heat is). So now I am freaking out.. fast forward a few hours and it’s grtting a bit cold in the house so I turn the heat back on... go to do dishes after dinner and low and behold I have hot water again... now I am thinking wth?? So just to see if I’m not going crazy I turn the heat off again and sure enough I have no hot water again. I did this three more times just to rule out any weird coincidences and to reassure myself I am not crazy.... I’m not... well maybe a little but on this particular subject.. I am not.. so .... I call the company back and tell them , hey.. had some work done to the tune of almost 500 bucks and now I have no hot water unless I turn my thermostat up to 65 to kick on the furnace... I have never had to do that before in a year and a half to be exact.. so whatever the technician did... something went wrong.. obviously I don’t want to have to turn my heat on during summer to get hot water.. they are sending someone on Monday.. but now I am feeling a little distrustful and would like to know if you have any idea what this could be. As I said during summer our thermostats is off... never have I ever had to turn it up to get hot water.. please help if you have any suggestions.Thanks so much for your time..
It sounds like possibly the control for the boiler is now changed and instead of always keeping the water jacket at 160-180 degrees all the time, it only turns the burner on when heat circulation is required. That is if I am understanding correctly, thanks
Good video but the easiest way to do it is to just turn on the furnace and as soon as as it turns on open the cover and with a well insulated screwdriver check for spark On a Becket oil burner you have 15 to 45 seconds Ignition trial before it shuts off on safety well enough time for you to have a screwdriver and just check for spark no need to disconnect the primary control But that's just me everyone has their own ways but other than that nice video
Yeah, as a teacher of 15 year olds and up for HVACR, I just try to teach everyone the safest possible way to do things so their hands are not in contact with objects that are powered in case there is a mistake, thanks
me and my brother love tesla and make a jacobs latter and harvested 1 drop of eletricity it then jumped out of its container onto my bothers thigh causing him to get zapped, I asked how much you think was in that drop of juice. he said, oooh about 25000 volts lol he jumped and it burt a hole in the pant, but he was otherwise okay lol.
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Intermittent Ignition Oil Primary Control by ICM- amzn.to/2AGvcPi
Nitrile Gloves 100pk - amzn.to/2jG2rHS
Cad Cell with Bracket by Beckett 7006U- amzn.to/2jGajJk
Beckett 51771u Electronic Ignitor with "A" base- amzn.to/2ib22N8
Ignition Transformer "Allanson 2721-628G"- amzn.to/2noADwD
Multipurpose Electrode Gap Gauge by Beckett- amzn.to/2AqavV5
Beckett Z2000u Gauge Kit "Z" for setting electrode gap- amzn.to/2jFuPd2
Here is the Link for the UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor- amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Here is the Link for the UEI DL 469 Multimeter- amzn.to/2jw4ePJ
Here is the link for the Irwin Wire Stripper/Cutter/Crimper- amzn.to/2dGTj2V
Here is a link to the Stanley 6 in 1 screwdriver- amzn.to/2x7NuaZ
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
ACSERVICETECH is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
=====================
========================
Great video, repaired our burner myself after multiple attempts by service company. Thank you for taking the time to help us out!
Glad to help Thomas, thanks!
You told me things they never taught me after 2 training classes- Thank You! You definitely understand T-shooting unlike many Techs who are monkey see monkey do.
This video saved me $600 and a week of waiting in the cold for a service tech in northern california, where almost nobody is qualified to work on oil burners.
Excellent video. It ALMOST makes me want to return to the east coast where I used to work on oil-burning furnaces and water heaters. I don’t miss it a bit. :)
Funny. I had one call for an oil burning furnace not working. Customer complained entire house stunk of exhaust. When I smelled it, it was like there was a Mack truck idling down in the basement.
Turns out customer purchased a new couch that sat very low to the carpet (very small legs). They put it over their cold air return in the family room causing a vacuum in the basement-a vaccuum pulling on the exhaust damper! We ended up having some custom legs made for the customer to raise the couch to allow air to enter unrestricted into the return. One thing I’ll never forget was how it could suck closed the door to the basement and slam it pretty hard. That’s how tight the house was and strength of the vacuum created.
Absolutely, crazy huh! Thanks Brian!
Great troubleshooting
Great job. Very easy to watch and listen to. The video was well done and we could see all the wiring etc. We used it to troubleshoot and found that we needed a new transformer. Just finished installing it and cleaning the nozzle, screen etc and the furnace is now purring like a kitten. Thanks so much.
Thanks a lot Javaqen!
Very good video. Please show more video on troubleshooting on oil furnace. I really enjoy watching all your videos. Keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
@@acservicetechchannel I have refer to all my friends about your video.
My friends are all amazed when they watch your video. Don't forget to focus on oil furnace. Your video is very detailed in information
...Yep electrode was gone...needed your video...surely after powering up ...no spark at the tips... made a new one with an old one and we have LiftOff...!!! Thank You for all this...
Thanks. Best video on this subject I've seen. Concise and to the point.
Glad it was helpful!
If you are working on a real nasty one it’s safer to use a flare nut wrench on that fuel line. You can get a cheap imported set from any chain auto parts store for like $12 and it’s just a little bit more secure. Great video helped me a lot
...Thank you for being a good instructor...!!! ... Saved me and the heat ...!!!!! 🙏...
Thanks for watching, I'm glad my video helped you out!
@8:17 Awesome! That is not something I have seen on a video and I watched many oil burner videos. Very cool to see and understand. Thanks!
Thanks WeatherNut27!
This video saved me last year. Let's see if we can do that again.
bought a brand new one, since the one i had was basically 25 years old. And it was so well built i only had to hook up 4 hours and it was clearly marked.
Many Thanks for this informative video. It saved my butt after I lost track of the wires changing out a bad primary relay.
Glad to help!
Thank you for the great video, I knew my Teledyne pool heater was getting fuel and air, it just would not fire up. watched the video and was able to get up and running after disassembling and cleaning the jets.
What an excellent video. Great explanation! Learned so much. Thanks!
Spark at the springs (alligator clip) seemed weaker than how it looked in the video, but when I performed the 'trick' at 8:15 spark at the nozzle looked fine. While I was in there I hit the conductors with steel wool. Put everything back together and it fired up. Not sure what did the trick but thank you for the troubleshooting tips.
The 12 point side of an 11/16 wrench fits perfect over that igniter nut behind the oil line
Great video as always! Love them Beckett AFG Oil burners
Thanks Knight HVAC!
Truly a awesome video...
Thanks for explaining some troubleshooting.
Excellent Vídeo, Thanks!
Great video, very instructive
Great video!! Thank you for the info.
What would happen if the electrodes were set to far in front of the nozzle?
Fantastic vid !
Like your videos. Precise and concise without background music/noise. Do you happen to know the resistance between the two primary leads of the electronic igniter (Beckett 746001)? I bought a new Beckett electronic igniter but the resistance between the two primary leads is infinity. Is it normal? It wouldn't make sense if it were a iron core transformer but not sure about electronic transformer. The resistance between the two secondary leads (springs) is somewhere around 4 ohms, which makes sense.
Help me set my airflow. I've got .75 70B nozzle, what should the airflow be set at 1-10?
9:45 "motor and valve" hooked back up....what valve, the pump solenoid?
Thank you extremely helpful
Thank you for the video, it helped me get going again!
Thanks!
Nice demonstration. well done.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video. Great info.
Great video. Does the spark need to be blue? Mine is more yellow. Would that keep it from igniting?
One of my igniters has a crack from one end to the other could that cause cycling? I'm planning on replacing the nozzle CAD cell and definitely the igniter since I was wondering if that crack was a problem
Hey if I get hired I think I'm going to support the channel if I get hired
Great video sir! Just went and tested mine like you suggested, and my spark seemed to be a lot weaker than what yours looked like. What would be the reason for a weak spark? Thank you again.
I am thinking of using an oil furnace transformer to create a spark for theatrical purposes. However, I would need to run something like 25 feet of cord from the transformer to where I want the spark to occur. Is this possible and if so what type of wire should be used for this?
Thanks for the video. The spark I am getting from my contact springs is very small. My furnace usually runs, but periodically won't start unless I press the reset button. Any idea what the issue could be?
I've cleaned the nozzle and checked the electrode position - both seem fine.
My contact springs do seem somewhat corroded though, could that be causing it?
Great explanation of your video. Thank you.
Thanks Will!
My relay doesn’t have a wire attached to the T T…..and keeps tripping off at times. At times it trips off, but stays on for two or three days that my relay does not have a wire connecting to both T and T does it need it in order to run correctly?
Thx alot very helpful
Buen vídeo, me aclaro el funcionamiento del equipo, gracias. Saludos!
Nice Job 👍👍👍
Thanks GM!
I installed a new transformer, non electronic model, but found issues when I used the front foam gasket.I was getting an occasional reset of the burner control. I discarded it and it has not reset since. Thinking my heating system was designed in the 60`s might not handle these newer 3000 plus rpm motors.The real problem was that my gas water heater was connected to the same flue pipe as the burner.
Good video I just remove the eye when testing a transformer good tip using that clip on the ignition spring
Thanks Christopher!
@@acservicetechchannel you welcome please do more videos on oil burners
Question. My oil furnace runs for a day or 4 and then goes to lock out. What donu suggest to trouble shoot this?
I measured 30 volts where the thermostat connects to the Honeywell R8184G relay control. Does the transformer that controls the furnace blower supply power to that Honeywell R8184G or is does a different transformer supply power to it? My heat pump is controlled by a different thermostat. Was wondering if I need to run one wire from the heat pump to Honeywell R8184G to pull the relay in so it turns on the oil furnace when it's to cold for the heat pump to operate? Also assuming the transformer that supplies power to heat pump thermostat and heat pump controls also supplies power to the Honeywell R8184G?
My oil furnace shuts down and black smoke rolls out by ignitor assembly. it does it intermittently. Help? We replace nozzle but not sure size is correct, changed air filter, oil filter, and fire looks good.
Thank you
You're welcome
You did a good test to show a good igniter, but you have failed to show how to test for a no spark from the igniter. Could it be the controller or the igniter, how do you tell.
Hey Allen, there is only two wires going into the spark module or spark transformer. If you have power in but no spark across the alligator clip when testing when the cad cell is covered then it is a bad spark module or spark transformer, thanks
Beckett makes a tool called the z gauge now that allows much easier electrode adjustments.
That is a nice toll that they came out with for sure, thanks!
Can't the cad cell eye just be removed or would that not work?
Does the transformer/spark stay active during the burn cycle, or just long enough for the spray pattern to ignite and be recognized by the cad cell? Thank you.
It stays active, thanks
My oil water heater recently has a problem. It does not turn on when the water drops to certain temperature. But when I press the reset button, it turns on and will heat the water to the preset temperature and only does it once. I am suspecting the aquastat is not working propertly. Am I right in this regard?
What ever that box is called with the reset button mine seems to be clicking more the normal like a solenoid clicking noise last night the heat was off I tapped on the box and the heat went out I’m assuming the contacts might be bad what’s that box called ?
Mine is clicking now, too, after years of my heat sometimes never turning off.
Any thoughts on what would make the transformer spark go away intermittently? When burner starts to stumble i Iift the transformer slightly off of the springs and there is no arc from springs to electrodes. I cut power at wall switch. If I don't cut power primary control will trip. Changed primary control and transformer and cad.Thoughts?
You ever use the "Z Gauge" to adjust electrodes..? Really easy setup..
EXACTLY !
Do you need to borrow a set of wrenches?
How do u replace the contact springs on the transformer
Does this mean that the electrodes are sparking at all times as long as the burner is burning?
I thought that the spark only ignited the flame and then after some 15 seconds it stopped sparking.
That's correct, it is the primary control that tells the transformer to spark! Once you achieve combustion with atomized fuel / air mixture the spark is no longer needed.
The motor shuts down and the control goes into reset if the cadmium sulfide eye fails to see sufficient light. This means that if the flame is dirty enough it will shut down due to poor fuel / air mixture.
Great video. I’m always so afraid to move the electrodes so I don’t change the gap. Cool to know there’s a $4 gauge on Amazon that I can buy!!! Thanks.
Thanks Johnny's Cousin Steve!
The gauge also comes with new electrodes.
Do the springs need to touch the electrodes
If you want to support the ACSERVICETECH Channel and receive more HVACR content, check out www.Patreon.com/acservicetech
All of the ACSERVICETECH Playlists- th-cam.com/channels/OZR-1IqsAer9wzlvFgb4mA.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
is tt a dry contact up to the thermostat ? tried putting ac on an oil furnace and i get no fan and my contacter is not closing help
Nice video! Thanks!!
Thanks Los!
What does it mean if I can get it running by smacking the top cover of the burner?
Please i need help. My boiler ignition pump not getting signal from plc and showing trip, sequence failure. What should i check. Thanks in advance.
Thanks
I was wondering if you could answer a question. My weil mclain boilers primary controller doesn't supply enough power to the blue ignition wire. (.3 of an Amp) motor, selenoid both have 120 and cad cell is disconnected. Is there anything that may prevent power from going through the ignition wire. Also is it safe to use a intermittent primary controller which combines the motor, oil valve selonoid and ignition wires together instead of a controller that activates them separately. (temporary fix) Thanks in advance.
Lavinmoniere always wears gloves also he rattles a screwdriver in the retention head next level!
Thanks tbirdpimp07!
Too bad that he mumbles instead of talking clearly like this guy.
But; WHY does he wear gloves ??
@@marksteven3534 I'm 65, been a jet eng. mech my whole life, and can't stand those stupid gloves. (Like taking a shower in a raincoat). I remember when they came on the scene...maybe 15-20 yrs ago? Money is being made, is why they're being promoted. (Like wearing these stupid masks.) If your hands get dirty, when you're done, wash them with Go-Jo. W/O gloves, at least you can feel what you're holding, and don't have-ta worry about pinching them. But I'm sure there are those who don't like dirty hands. I call it the "pussification" of America. (But hey, that's just me. What do I know.)
My 30 year old burner was shutting down every few days and sometimes would take several seconds to ignite. Could not figure out why. Good oil flow, new nozzle and electrodes. Replaced old transformer with a new Beckett electronic igniter for $50. Problem solved! Now she fires up instantly. The electronic igniters have much higher voltage.
completely broke and have no heat , 17 f tonite ... have good flame but wont stay running , any way to jump out cad cell so stays on ?? i know, i know .... ill keep an eye on it . have no other options . starts and runs good , shuts off after 30 seconds or so , everything else seems fine ...
Good vid thnx.
Why is there a short (jump) across the thermostat terminals?
It is to simulate calling for heat. If you're burner is hooked up to your boiler and you have your thermostat connected and calling for heat then you should not need to do this jump.
My tenant says the furnace is making a “womp, womp, womp, womp” sound before infighting? I’ve yet to hear it when I’m there. She said it usually happens 1st thing in morning when she turns the heat up. Any ideas what could make that sound? I changed nozzle and filter today. Seems to run just fine.
She said the noise sounds like a washing machine? Weird
Great video tks
Thanks Carlos!
Do you have an in depth video on burner heads and air tubes?
Not at this point, sorry Chris!
I get a spark without disconnecting one of the cad cell wires. Right now my furnace will not run and the reset button is not working (is not "popped" out - pushing it does nothing).
What was your fix?
do the spark electrodes need to have points on them? I see a lot that dont and it still seems to ignite oil
As long as they are meeting the spark gap then the electrodes are fine with or without the points, thanks Capitol!
Instead of disconnecting the CAD cell wires or putting tape on the eye, simply pull the eye from its socket
Never saw a guy put the buss bars on the tranformer for a test. Don't you need the fan blowing the spark into the spray?
You can blow on it but we are just testing to make sure that there are no cracks on the porcelain, thanks
great, thanks ...
Thanks Pei Broker!
What would cause oil getting into the transformer cavity?
That could be a loose connection or blow back when the blower shuts off. I would call a service tech if it is not just the loose connection, thanks
While running My oil furnace keeps shutting off for a second and restarting. Do you have a guess on what’s going on?
You may want to check your cad cell, thanks
Cad cell relay bad, next level
Struggling with mine now..tripping out at least once a day…frustrating
Can't find solution : Riello F40 oil boiler starts (air, fuel, spark) yet only runs for 1-2 secs. Then upon second attempt (ignition) it stays running fine. Sometimes, it takes a third attempt to run properly. Sounds like the flame goes out almost instantly.
Sounds like either the cad cell or primary control, thanks!
How come when I test my transformer I don’t remove the cad cell and it still arks
It must be very dark in the room in which you are testing, thanks
Yep, learned the hard way to not use a meter/test leads that aren't rated for the voltage. Meter and leads were fine afterwards, but I received a physically unpleasant sensation. "OKAY, not doing that again!"
Yeah don't try to measure it, just check the gap by placing an alligator clip on one spring or clip with the power off and then disconnect one cad cell wire to test spark, thanks!
@@acservicetechchannel Several other things leading up to that "snake bit" furnace story, but the moral is "don't get frustrated and do something stupid." I've never felt a meter buzz and be shocked through the leads before.
Great video!! I was hoping you could lend your expertise in a little dilemma that I have had this passed Thursday... so I called my oil company to come and do the routine maintenance of cleaning the furnace, changinging thr filter.. etc?Was quoted 149.00 for the routine maintenance.The technicncian told me I needed a new igniter.. that mine was weak... I agreed and the final cost was 450.00. My heat was then turned off because it was a fairly warm day.. had dinner, went to do dishes and BAM... we have no hot water now( our hot water is powered by the furnace just as our heat is). So now I am freaking out.. fast forward a few hours and it’s grtting a bit cold in the house so I turn the heat back on... go to do dishes after dinner and low and behold I have hot water again... now I am thinking wth?? So just to see if I’m not going crazy I turn the heat off again and sure enough I have no hot water again. I did this three more times just to rule out any weird coincidences and to reassure myself I am not crazy.... I’m not... well maybe a little but on this particular subject.. I am not.. so .... I call the company back and tell them , hey.. had some work done to the tune of almost 500 bucks and now I have no hot water unless I turn my thermostat up to 65 to kick on the furnace... I have never had to do that before in a year and a half to be exact.. so whatever the technician did... something went wrong.. obviously I don’t want to have to turn my heat on during summer to get hot water.. they are sending someone on Monday.. but now I am feeling a little distrustful and would like to know if you have any idea what this could be. As I said during summer our thermostats is off... never have I ever had to turn it up to get hot water.. please help if you have any suggestions.Thanks so much for your time..
It sounds like possibly the control for the boiler is now changed and instead of always keeping the water jacket at 160-180 degrees all the time, it only turns the burner on when heat circulation is required. That is if I am understanding correctly, thanks
They turned the low limit all the way down, turn it back up to 160, next level
Good video but the easiest way to do it is to just turn on the furnace and as soon as as it turns on open the cover and with a well insulated screwdriver check for spark On a Becket oil burner you have 15 to 45 seconds Ignition trial before it shuts off on safety well enough time for you to have a screwdriver and just check for spark no need to disconnect the primary control But that's just me everyone has their own ways but other than that nice video
Yeah, as a teacher of 15 year olds and up for HVACR, I just try to teach everyone the safest possible way to do things so their hands are not in contact with objects that are powered in case there is a mistake, thanks
Mine is not getting power to the pump
Are you getting voltage out of the control to the pump motor?
Adjustable wrenches slip causing rounding, get yourself a Brake line wrench or two
Just use an insulated screwdriver.
me and my brother love tesla and make a jacobs latter and harvested 1 drop of eletricity it then jumped out of its container onto my bothers thigh causing him to get zapped, I asked how much you think was in that drop of juice. he said, oooh about 25000 volts lol he jumped and it burt a hole in the pant, but he was otherwise okay lol.
Dude, you had the tip of your index finger all over the face of the nozzle, therefore contaminating the nozzle orifice. That's a big no-no, bro!
haw too clean soffa
i use my tounge
No technical help on oil furnaces where i live..1 or 2 guys that’s it..
Sir
Hindi version chahiye
Thank you for letting me know what you would like to see!