How to Load a Skid Steer | Heavy Equipment Operator Training
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ค. 2024
- Skid Steer Training - How to Operate a Skid Steer. We will go over how to load/unload a skid steer (includes understanding weight capacity, loading and tie-down of a John Deere 325). Have a question or comment? Leave one below!
A special thank you to Precision Landscaping & Construction, Inc. for allowing us to use their equipment. Check them out here: precisionlandscape-inc.com
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Please use the tie down under the front boom, instead of using a grab handle for light use. this is not a tie down spot
I immediately came to the comment section when he put the chain on the handles and was happy yours was the first one I saw!
100%
I feel like they would rip off
I work for local government and they bring the skid steer to my division with the chains going through the grab handles and I have to rechain the thing down every single time they bring it.. I have got into so many heated arguments over it.
Agree... I came to warn other drivers not to use that point.
I would highly recommend using the manufacture's tie down points (on the bottom side of the boom on the Deere 325G), as opposed to utilizing the human handholds on the front of the machine that are designed for a couple hundred pounds, not 9650 lbs. If the machine doesn't have built in tie down points in the front, you can run the chain through the cross tube of the boom.
Good tip, and definitely recommend using those tie downs if possible. I was told by one of the dealers (and I also see the dealers themselves do this) that the handles can be used as tiedown points. One of my complaints with the JD is the single tidedown at the very bottom is just in an awkward position and very close to hydraulic line to use (unless no bucket on) and then the pockets they have now added under the boom arm don't have any easy pass through to wrap around. Do you know if JD published anything that says you can't use the handles as tie downs?
I would also highly recommend to stay away from using those handles. I have had them severely damaged and bent during transportation almost breaking the welds.
Exactly my thoughts....my goodness!
@@HeavyMetalLearning 9500 lbs and 1/2 inch thick welded on rods tell me you shouldn't use the handles
@@HeavyMetalLearning If you have a dealer telling you this, see if they'll put it in writing for you. I bet they won't. JD has put something in writing though, in their manual.
Your video has helped me get over my fear of teeter totter when backing the skid steer off the trailer I used the same machine today and I followed everything in your video and it worked to perfection! Thank you for the video!
Glad I could help
I like to load my track skid backwards and I align the tracks right on top of the 2 axles of the gooseneck...perfect weight distribution as the engine and bigger counter weight are on the rear of the skid. Also don't ever chain down down skid through the handles.
I concur, I do the same thing. Also makes unloading so much easier!
I was taught "Never hook a chain to anything but a chain." The hook is made to attach around the link on %90(or more)of chains. In my humble opinion your front chains were placed to far forward on the trailer side and over the bucket(creating a perpendicular load), i would suggest a straight path between attachment points and bring my chains between the rear of the bucket and the front of the track in a straight line from boom to trailer. These are a few things i learned over the last 24 yrs of doing this stuff. Keeps me & my guys safe and i hope it keeps you safe as well! I currently hook n book daily on the same trailer with a CAT277 (multi loader tracked) hooked to a Freightliner FL60 dump truck. Besides the above mentions my only other preference is chalking trailer tires to keep the "deck" stable while loading/unloading(especially tracked equipment). Great info and great videos!! Please keep them coming so we can all be safe n effective!!!
Liked and subscribed!
Great info....thanks for sharing.
Your better off with foundry hooks attached to your standard grade 70 chains or even clevis hooks 🪝. They fit into just about any tie down point on any piece of equipment.
Awesome video brotha! Love what you put out. Keep up the good work!!!
Thanks for the comment!
Buddy your vids are AWESOME, all aspects. Watched many of your various equipment vids. Immediately subscribed. Jason from South Africa.
I have a small problem with securing That Cat using the Handholds for Tie-Downs, Being a Certified Welder sometime we just don't trust others welds especially if you have a tension strength of about 1000 lbs at each securing point or Chains...But one very good Video, I learned something today...
The only thing different I do is . That I load mine on a gooseneck dump trailer . I love it bec you just lift it up to drive one and off . Great video keep up the good work you guys . You have help me a lot with these videos.
Yep, this takes the tipping point (the nail biter) out of the process.
Good overview, hitting the main points, especially the tipping points getting on & off the trailer - the 2 most nerve wracking parts IMHO. Also good that you cited the DOT regs.
I always put wheel chocks on the trailer tires when loading/unloading. Which helps to prevent it from moving if it picks up the rear tires of the truck.
Good tip...thanks for sharing!
Yep, chocking trailer tires only takes 2 mins & adds a lot of safety. I also chock the FRONT wheels of the truck.
Thank you for your effort! It's really educative. I have a question for you: I am always very nervous if i've pre-trip checked my tailor well, so can you guide us on that part too?
Thank you again!
I'm not here to contradict you. Thanks for giving us some new tips!
Great video. I do have a question regarding this specific trailer to CTL specs. How long is the flat deck portion of the trailer?
If I’m loading that same CTL and I have the bucket and a drum mulcher, and need to consider proper load weight distribution for a bumper pull, how long of a trailer do I need assuming the GVWR and axle ratings are fit for purpose?
Thx for the help!!!
I have hauled a lot of light duty things for 30 plus years but not a heavy duty which is why I wanted to see this as I just purchased a skid. First, I learned a couple things from this video. One why someone might chalk or put a vehicle in 4x4 when loading. I just put it in the park with emergency breaks on. I have never done that but now you have me re-think that when going to something heavy like a skid or my buddy's 415 backhoe which is 18k lbs.. Another thing, why I would buy a full-tilt trailer and not a flatbed as when you backed up, that was a little scary thinking since the skid steer I am buying is wheeled which will pronounce that even more. My 2 cents. The biggest thing I learned was I returned my load binders for ratcheted ones. Going to pick my skid in a couple days so I might as well get it right. I see why you could get hurt or they could fall off with lever style. Agree with some comments below about a re-do in your video on attaching to the handles in front vs the manufactured position. I loved the first re-do and think that was very informative. if you look forward to the D in Deere about 2 feet then down about 6 inches that's the tie-down on the boom. My question is why forward-facing vs rear-facing? I am thinking rock chips on the glass unless you can't get rock chips or scratches, although the rear has glass too. just much smaller. I wanted to say thank you for this video!
I just picked up a John Deere 319D Track Loader. Watched many videos on how to properly and safely chain down the machine. I am just not sure if you should be chaining to the front handles. I'm sure it's illegal here anyways in Canada. The rear looks good. Other than that, great tips on loading. I know, that uneasy feeling with a track loader feeling like you are going to tip backwards. I actually feel better loading it backwards.
Great video. Thanks
I personally like to load backing on the trailer. All the weight in the back and have a spotter if at all possible. (Safety first) that way if something happens you have help.
I wouldn’t use the grab handles to tie it down with. I would use the one lower down on boom stops
Yes, totally agree. We made the mistake on this one because I should have realized it was one of the newer units that has designated tie downs under the arms.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Have you considered redoing your video and taking this one down?
❤❤❤Very very informative thank you
very instructive....... I usually just try to hit the ramps as fast as I can before the Skid Steer has a chance to flip over backwards. The Truck moves forward about 2 feet with this method.
Lol...nice!
Feel it was a good video , only thing I really do different is using two binders in the rear of the machine and not the one. Have actually had DOT tell me that was far better and something they look for when watching trucks drive by , if they see two or three they pull them over figuring they are in violation of some kind. I'm in Pittsburgh Pa. Area so this can be different in other areas.
Yeah DOT in PA is no joke, even the city cops in that state look for DOT violations all the while watching 4 wheelers going over 30 mph over the speed limit but here you come minding your with one chain missing and bam you'll get pulled over.
4 is better but what he did was 100% legal
Should use tie-down point on the under part of boom and use 2 binders in the rear. I always have 2 smaller chains for the rear so theres no chain bouncing around
Ive learned backing it in is easier when unloading at your next stop
I would put more than one chain on the back because when you Break that back chain is the difference between the machine from going into your truck and staying in place
Not a bad practice, but definitely not required. In the end always better to be safe than quick.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Yes it IS required, DOT says 4 tie down points, that's 4 isolated points. They allow the use of one chain if it's ran through the attaching points like you did through the holes on the back, but you need to hook your ratchet binder on the inner part of the chain and back to the outer part, and the same on the other side, in affect isolating the two sides making one chain into two separated sections with the excess in the middle. If DOT caught you transporting that with one chain running through holes in the rear they will def fine you.
@@KACSR15E3 I think that's only 10k or more equipment, which this doesn't meet.
@@KACSR15E3 yeah your 100% wrong...now I would put 4 corners because it take 2 more minutes but you don't have to because it's under 10,001 pounds
Can anybody please recommend what kind of trailer I want to use (deck over , caged, etc..) for my skid steer and maybe a few attachments to safely operator daily.
Well, since it has been 3 months and no one answered you I am curious what you went with. Caged or Flat? And how is it working out for you? Thanks.
I work for top gun equipment rentals and we always load these and excavators backwards because you have so much weight on the back and if you're new to this you can possibly flip it going strait up so we back them uo and then all u have to do is drive it strait off when unloading. That's just us though
Yeah it’s always best to reverse upward but it doesn’t matter too much with a skidsteer.
And, this type of skidsteer has a loop bar under the front (behind, below the bucket) and I loop one chain through it and across the bucket, tying down the bucket with one ratcheting come along. The rear, I loop the chain through, lock the hook, and drive forward 2-4” and then ratchet it down so I never have too much slack! Both front and back, I use the come along to pull the chains together. Like an inverted V shape.
Sound right?
Yeah, I'll back on if I don't have an attachment on the front OR if its a wheeled machine, but generally I pull them on forward. Yeah, and lots of skids have that center connection on the front underneath but I think it is just a pain to get a chain through (especially on JD). Plus on this JD there is the hydraulic line right near that bar so I don't like taking the chance of hitting a line while tightening down. From everything I have seen, I believe those 2 handles on the arm are approved as tiedown's. But I agree, in an ideal situation that main point in the center front would be the best location to attach to. Haven't heard that strategy on the back, sounds like with your inverted V I would be concerned with it having the ability to slide. Why not just go through both openings (assuming you have tiedowns on each back corner of your machine) and then secure to the corners of your trailer? Always good to hear from others on how they do it. Like I said, I don't believe there is only ONE right way. Thanks!
great video just a few facts wrong on cdl and load secondment get with me if your want. but thanks for the awesome video
Would love to know....feel free to share in the comments or email us (info@heavymetallearning.com). Love your vids on your channel!
Nice. The unloading would scare me. Lol. Good job!
Thanks 👍
You get used to it, but warm and fuzzy never goes away, lol.
I would recommend using a gooseneck flatbed trailer
Agreed....but just a more expensive option when not always needed.
I will never drive mine on my Dump Trailer. I always back it on. They can flip over backwards, or , If ramp come loose you will flip it. When I back on. I keep my bucket close to the ground incase something happens. not going anywhere..
With a deck over trailer I would back machine on , ramps are steep. Also front chain hooks should be attached in lower in arm slots, grab handle not made for chains
So just watched this video. And I recently started an equipment rental job so we work with skidsteers and mini excavators how do I get over the fear of loading them onto trailers? I can't get over the tippy feeling when loading a skid steer when you get close to being completely on the trailer and your front tracks are up in the air it makes me almost $hit myself every time
The fear will go away with time. It's all about taking it slow and steady every time. Take the time to learn how your equipment handles on the ground first. Up on the trailer at tip point isn't where you want to figure out how hard or soft you need to push on your sticks to get past that point. If you can, watch others load that same equipment and see what it's actually doing from the outside. It always feels worse in the cab of the machine. Like the video shows go real slow when your about to hit the tip point and you will feel it. You can stop regain your composure and continue on.
Whether with an ex or a track loader, you can use the bucket to control the tip down. One way you'll force the transition slightly before you get there, going the other you'll keep the bucket low to catch the tip when it happens.
We have a skidsteer and when I load it on the gooseneck I dont chain it on the bars
Yeah....there are several different options!
In our company we load it backwards because the counterweight is in the rear side and its dangerous at the moment to climb it
The GCVW (gross combined vehicle weight) is what the truck can legally tow according to GM in this case.
Also, in many jurisdictions, the truck must be insured to tow the GCVW.
GM 3500 Truck: 6000#?
Trailer: 5000#?
Deere 325G: specification says 9500#
Combined total: 20500#?
Numbers are probably close. Most 3500 standard pickups have GCVW of 22-25# Typically max towing is 14500.
@@HeavyMetalLearning Nope. I hate to disagree with you but you're wrong on max towing again. My GMC 2500 is rated at towing 18,500 lbs. The big brother 3500 is rated to tow (4wd) of 21,300 and if you go dually it can go on upwards to over 35,000 lbs.
@@JosephSmith72 the newest trucks yes, older trucks no.
I didn't know Jonah Hill was teaching safety measures! Love the sunglasses.
there are a few things i disagree with on this. the front handles aren't designed to tie down to. 2: your chains are pinched against the bucket, which can rub and cause a failure eventually. you always want your chains in a straight line from end to end (i run a crane at my job, something we're taught). 3: your back tie down if possible should be two separate chains. the way they are now allows the machine to potentially slide side to side (however unlikely it may be, it CAN happen, i've had it happen with a tractor, thankfully nothing bad happened.)
I would recommend attaching foundry or clevis hooks 🪝 to your standard 3/8 grade 70 chains ⛓. They fit into just about any tie down point.
Next time can you demonstrate loading a wheeled skid steer on forward
I always back mine on my trailer less chances of flipping it over, unloading is a lot easier you can see what your doing especially if it’s uneven terrain. That’s my preference
Also you dont end up with a broken windshield from rocks being thrown up from your truck.
Are you sure you’re not an expert?you always have great videos
Lol...I know I know...people give me shit for saying it in EVERY video but I feel like I have to qualify any of my “advice” up front. That way the internet trolls don’t attack me for claiming to know everything! Ha. I’m always learning...every day!
Heavy Metal Learning, yes sir, I know what you mean. You can’t make everyone happy. Just keep the great content coming 👍🏼
A trick i learned was put your truck in 4 wheel drive so if what you load lifts the back of the truck you dont roll down hill
umm.... thats what he said in the beginning....
WOW! a bunch of know-it-alls in here on equipment loading. You can load front first or back it on, doesn't matter as long as it doesn't want to flip back That will always happen when there's no attachment on, mostly happens on wheel loaders not track. weight distribution is the most important when hauling equipment, You load it your way Good Job 👍😎
Thanks!
The problem on the internet (and in real life) is that people will say "You have to do this and that", and when you ask why, the only real answer is "It's the way my dad/teacher/boss/whatever said to do ti" or "it's how I always have done it" - and some of that is that the person had some bad experience or where told why, but they didn't understand the explanation, and now applies the rule to everything, but it only applies to SOME of the cases.
Sometimes, you get better explanations, and they are SOMETIMES right, but you also get a load of urban myths. This is of course not unique to the internet, it's just that now someone with a view on how to load a machine onto a trailer can get 1000 people viewing their comment on a 50k subscriber channel on TH-cam, where previously, he (or she) would have got half a dozen people on a building site, in a bar or wherever the thing happens to be said. I don't claim to be an expert in much - absolutely not loading a piece of equipment on a trailer. But I understand physics, I know a bit about vehicle steering, suspension and stability, etc.
Understanding the balance, centre of gravity and weight distribution on your vehicle and your trailer is obviously really what matters. There is no simply rule that applies to everything. If you have a machine that is heavy at the back, then don't go hard forward up a something (ramp or other incline), because it will lift the front wheel. Anyone who has been riding a bicycle on the back wheel knows that it's much easier to wheelie going up a hill, and even easier if you move back on the seat, lean back, etc. No difference with machines. Go slow, understand where you weight is and how it affects and is affected by things around you, all other problems will be covered... :)
I agree with everything you said the only reason I pulled my Loader on is because I was always told it was bad to have all that wind rushing to my turbo thru exhaust don’t know how true that is I’m not trying to be a know it just always pulled my machine on as long as I had an attachment on great info though guys
Tip: Check trailer tire pressures before loading...
İyi güvenlik bro
Thanks...I think
INCORRECT..............
Why the heck would you use grab handles in front? Skank up the paint and or bend handles…
Always back the skid steer on you never drive them on bucket first that’s skid steer loading basics
Why? I think it really depends on the situation and can be done correctly either way.
7 out of 10 Chain binding
Just hook the binder to the bucket on each side no chain needed
No tongue weight heavy side needs be on front axle
I dont like that bucket it don't look flat underneath
parking brake on truck in neutral it will kill transmission if it moves truck in park !! CHOCJK WHEELS ALSO
U attached to worst place in the front those are made to get in and out of machine Jd has a place on side of loader arms specifically for tightening down on. On small machine like that it prob OK. But dot won't like at all
Skip to the 20:00 minute mark
Why 2 in front 1 I rear vs vice versa?
could be either...just looking for 3 points.
Good video but thats a good way to get a smashed window from oncoming traffic
How so?
@@HeavyMetalLearning by loading forward rocks are able to hit the front door on the skiddy. Also, in snowy regions on non cab machines, loading forward, all the rain, snow, salt brine goes right into your cab. By loading backwards you are following osha protocol, (safer) and protecting the interior of your cab / rops because all that stuff will be hitting the tail gate instead of going into the cab area. My apologies on my post that I deleted yesterday. You are just trying to be helpful, so was I, but I don't have good "word smithing" skills!
@@billiardbrawler Interesting perspective...thanks for sharing. What osha protocol are you referring to? And not sure I agree on the rocks hitting the front door. How is that different than every other vehicle out there? I guess maybe if you are traveling a lot on gravel roads they probably get rock chips more but for most travel I don't think that's an issue. I would absolutely agree with you that for a non enclosed machine it would probably be best to transport backwards to keep those materials from coming in the cab (especially if nasty conditions). Again, like I stated I don't think there is any single ONE right way, so for those that are loading backwards feel free to keep doing that.
@@HeavyMetalLearning
page 19, 4th bullet point, pulled from osha website.... you do great videos...just want people to be safe, that's all....
www.osha.gov/sites/default/files/2019-03/skid_steer_loader_safety.pdf
steve helline interesting...thanks for sharing that info!
Every corner needs to be secured separately.
Wrong it's under 10k lbs
Truck in neutral, parking brake applied, truck and trailer tires chalked. Too easy
Did my man just use thw grab handles as a point of securement? 😳😳😳
You don’t need a CDL for hauling over 10k. But you will need a CDL for having a 28k GCVWR.
Putting a lot of faith in those dinky handles in the front. Why not wrap it around the arm while avoiding the rams and hoses. At least that’s how I do it with a CAT. Maybe different machine idk
In Canada we use to call it a bear trap and it sucks but how the fuck can you close it without a winch bar
I've trucked for 52 years and never heard of the no winch bar deal. I hope they dont take away our winch bars 😳
There's literally a hole on the skid steers arm for the hooks in the front. I'd trust 1/2" plate before I'd ever trust that grab handle. I came here to learn and I feel like this video is false.
Stop playing games with your truck. It's okay for redundancy, but you need to keep it Much simpler (what if in loading you pop the trailer up off the hitch? Easy to do...)~ Use chocks.
Little tip. Always better to load backwards. Good habit to get into
yeah...I can see both sides. Thanks for the comment!
Speed binder are 100% better and safer. You use a impacte to tilt them
What’s a speed binder?
Go to TH-cam look up speed binders there really...there right at $100 per binder. I bought 2 then 2 weeks I got the other 2. Look up speed binders on youtube let me know what you think.
@@HeavyMetalLearning ironically, I am speedbinders ...... speedbinders.com
Interesting....thanks for sharing info...
$100 each? 👎🏼
Also that is not the correct place to chain the front of the machine
Yeah...I missed the new locations that are under the arms on the new JD skids.
Never ever use a cheater bar on a snap binder.
There are literally indicators on the side of your boom showing you the proper tie down point. I would never tie my machine down using the handles that are welded onto the machine. I thing that’s terrible advice and requires you to climb onto the trailer rather than doing everything from the ground. Secondly your not allowed to use that single tie down on the back of your machine like that. You can use a single chain but both need to be hooked to the machine and using there own tie down. Not trying to beat up on you but if your taking the time to make an educational video you should really make sure your giving the right information on your videos. If I used your methods I would get pulled over and fined without a doubt.
Why would you tigh down to the handles? That’s basic tight down NO NO, makes me wonder your actual experience with equipment loading on a trailer. My 7 year old knows better that the welding on those handle won’t be sustained that machine. Other than that, an overall good vid
I would say that’s not the right way to tie down a machine and you will be confusing people that are barley learning
No sense putting it on forward. Just load it backwards
Why? Don’t think it matters really, does it? I don’t like backing up ramps because that is the riskiest position.
Heavy Metal Learning can get busted glass traveling forward and also you may arrive to job somewhere that backing off the trailer may be too steep.
@@98Pete Yeah...those are good points. I've heard there is potential risk in hauling backwards as well if you don't cover the exhaust that you can damage the turbo on the engine. Never experienced that, so not sure how much risk there is.
Always easier to load backwards. Wieght is at the back so less risk of flipping and loading and makes for easy and fast off loads.
Never loaded a machine backwards in 30 plus years of operating.
Not tied down correctly at all!
this video is poor, skid steers should be always back on as the heavy end of the machine is in the back. Never tie off of a grab handle of any mobile equipment this way will get the driver a huge ticket by DOT.
People, DO NOT secure to the grab handles!! Take this video down
Please stop teaching incorrect tie down points