DUCATI ST3 Timing Belt Replacement
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2021
- Replacing the timing belts on my Ducati ST3
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Hey Andy, thank you for putting this on your TH-cam channel. Its a real lesson in advanced ducati skills for me.
I have a 2007 ST3 from new but never trusted myself to do any maintenance. Watched this one twice to get a feel for how out of my depth I would be if I was to attempt it.
I am learning a lot from your genuine (no exaggeration) style about my next step. The first hook by the way was the ST3 starting issues video which happened to me the other day. I replaced the battery which is a mission for me (as you described) and put it back together only to find its still not starting easily. So I am now working my way thru that fault finding video with a multimeter.
Thanks for giving me the confidence to get this far. Your videos are gold!
Hallo. Bis auf die "Batteriegeschichte" kann ich mich dem Gesagten vollinhaltlich anschließen. Danke für die ST3 Videoserie hier & schöne Grüße aus Salzburg. Klaus
Good job Andy 👍 I'm often working on my bikes and found it very therapeutic watching you work on yours !
Glad to see videos popping up again Andy. Hope to see some more of Basket Case soon!
Thanks from Holland Andy!. It's a pleasure to see you at work. Very instructive. It gives me the nerves to tackle it myself now. My ST3 ( 2007) has only 17k km on it. I own it since 2013. Never had the belts changed as far as I know🤫
Something strangely comforting hearing an Aussie say struth. Same as when a Janner says yep geddon!
For anyone out there with an ST3 who was/is having a hard time figuring out the belt tension like me, here's my take...I search forums and videos and found all ranges of advice and techniques. Mostly the frequency,5,4, or 3mm hex between the stationary pulley like a feeler gauge, and the seemingly ludicrous 45 degree twist thing. At first I couldn't get the Gates Carbon Drive app to work. Was damn near impossible to get a reading let alone any kind of consistent reading, So after sore thumbs I searched and found the 5mm hex between the stationary tensioner thing and read conflicting views but most said this was not accurate and was from the 80's or on air cooled 2 valve motors. One guy mentioned that possibly the 3mm hex would be a closer gauge. I started to settle on that idea and also tried this 45 degree twist thing. All in all I just wasn't happy or felt confident. But I about said screw it and leave it and put it back together. But I tried something else at the last minute. I used a guitar tuner app called n-Track Tuner and was getting fairly consistent readings. It picked up the sound better. I found the tension to be way off from where I had left off which was just barely getting a 3mm hex in between the stationary tightener pulley. On the horizontal belt I was around 80-85hz but on the vertical belt I was reading around 50-56hz. That was way to low from spec. So I tightened up the tension on the horizontal belt to around 103 to 107hz but had a harder time on the vertical. Even with pushing it tight as hard as I could by hand the best reading I was getting was around 80hz. I ended up slightly prying it down between it and the frame tube and finally got readings around 107hz. I hope this was all correct. I felt better about it but that vertical belt feels way tighter than the horizontal but then the tensioner pulleys are spaced differently between the two. And I honestly can't see how anyone could feel good with the 45 degree twist method. No matter how tight I had them the 45 degree bend felt the same and there was no way even a 3mm hex would slip through. So I would recommend if you're having a hard time with the frequency thing. Try downloading that n-Track Tuner or something similar that gives frequencies.
Edit...After feeling confident I put everything back together and buttoned it all up, took it for a spin and got it up to operating temperature, came back and noticed a noise around 1500 to 2000 RPM. It was kind of like a bad bearing noise. Feeling like maybe I didn't get this figured out. We'll have to tear apart and loosen a bit and see if that makes a difference.
Edit 2...Decided to go with my gut on this. Just lightly pulled the belt tensioners together and call it tight enough. I just wasn't convinced I was getting any kind of consistent frequency and when I did I had to pry the tensioner on the vertical cylinder. Doesn't seem right to me since many other ducatis are so much looser. Like watched a video of one guy with a 2 valve just pull them lightly together and got a reading of 95hz with no further tightening. So maybe this shady 45 degree thing isn't too far off. I'm guessing I just over thought this.
The struggle is real.... and then I have to deal with the two valve Aprilia after I finish the 900 SS. Still, love those Italians. ( the Aprilia is named Sophia). Thanks Andy, keep 'em coming
great job, got to love (or touch their colon with a boot) those little Italian engineers making a mechanics life a bit challenging. Measuring the frequency for the belt tension caused me dropping my old ST3 off at the dealer, no app available at the time either. Traded it off in 2013 for a MS 1200 GT and the ST3 served me well, bought it used with 10000 km on it and traded it with 60000km 4 years later. Wonder what happened to it.
You can't beat that feeling of peace of mind you get from a set of new belts!
Did you know that the ST3, (like my 1100 Evo), has 'floating' cam pulleys? These allow you to spread the effect of the single moveable tensioner pulley along the whole length of the belt without risking alteration of the cam timing.
You lock the cams from the alternator side using small pins, (laser tools do a set for just a few dollars), then loosen those three torx screws on the face of the cam pulley. That allows the toothed section to move to take up the tension without affecting the cam position itself. It's worth bearing in mind if you want to keep the cam timing absolutely spot on.
The other advantage is that you can check the tension of both belts together, (without having to reposition the vertical cylinder to TDC), because the cam locking pins prevent the closing springs from applying tension to the belt.
i have two issues with this. the first is the assumption that using the factory tools will give you the correct cam timing, especially on an st3. second is that with the pulley half screws (torx) loose, the pulley outers cock when you tension the belts, and the tension will increase when you tighten the screws.
if you want to set the cam timing, put a degree wheel on it and check what the valves are doing.
if you want to just change the belts, leave the pulley halves alone and tension them at each tdc firing.
What Brad said. There is some excellent information about this on his blog here bradthebikeboy.blogspot.com/search?q=ST3
Ducati's look like such fun to work on.
always a pleasure to watch , did mine on my 796 not so long ago , thanks to brad the biker boy .. keep up the good work Andy 👍
Nice one Andy. Happy days
Nice job Andy..
Try a 3/8 drive socket set, much easier access in tight spaces. I hardly ever use 1/2 on my bikes.
Tension the horizontal belt so that with moderate finger pressure pushing down on the belt you can slide with a little resistance a 5mm allen key between the fixed tensioner and the top surface of the belt, vertical cylinder a 6mm allen key as the cylinder runs hotter and expands in length more.
Rotate crank 90 degrees before checking vertical cylinder to bring to tdc. In 5 belt changes this method has never let me down , on my third 2 valve .
I have used that method on my 2 valve as well, but wast told by people that I TRUST that it’s okay on the Pantah style 2V’s but to use frequency on these later 3 and 4V engines.
not on a ds style engine or st3.
@@bradthebikeboy speaking of people that I trust, g'day Mr Black.
SO - all all rubber-band drive Ducati motors, when you line up the marks, ONE cyl (front) is at rest, and the rear cyl is under tension and a valve is open and the spring is fighting the belt - I always do the Guitar tuning method on the F cyl, then roll the engine 90 degrees till the rear cyl goes slack and then set it when it's not under load- You MAY get a false reading doing it the way you did and have the front belt way tighter than rear.......
Did you skip ahead? I put the vertical cylinder on TDC firing before setting the tension.
@@ANDY5 Oh, I mustve - sry mate
@@ANDY5 I did not skip ahead, but for us mechanically challenged, how did you do that, Turn the crank 90 degrees from the horizontal pulley mark (Assume it is TDC firing)? Keen to do this job myself.......... Clear as video and not dark either Andy!
I fixed the lighting in edit. The vertical cylinder TDC firing is 270* after the horizontal. So start at TDC on the horizontal (drive pulley mark should be aligned with the crankcase mark) and turn the crank 180* and then 90*.
@@ANDY5 Thanks mate, good info!
Great stuff
Good job.
Hi Andy.
I did my ST2 pretty much the same. Marked the old belts before pulling them off and then transferred the marks to the new belts.
I pulled the plugs and turned the motor over with the back wheel.
I watched a lot of YT vids on changing the belts, Brad the bike boy and CA Cycle works and others, and ended up going with the Exactfit belts of Cycleworks from Gowanlochs. One thing Chris from CA Cycle works (I think) said about the Gates belts was as they were an agricultural belt and not specifically made for Ducatis the pitch on the teeth was slightly different.
I'll try and find the link if you're interested.
They are made for Ducati by Gates. I have the Exactofit on my 900SS, much of a muchness I think.
Speaking of V2 engines, I on recently found out why HD's sound like they'll stall on idle is coz they only use 1 coil pack and that fires both cylinders simultaneously. Irrespectively of 2nd piston position. How gross is that?
Thanks for the video but I Still don’t understand why the driver pulley doesn’t do a 360 degree rotation but the cams do 180
Cheers
Jeff
Cool video Andy, never seen a battery in that place before. I need to get out more often 😂
Best tension on belts without correct tool is 1/4 " drive extension can pass through belt & tensioner without too much force mate
Nice one 👍
Hi, Andy in April I did a full service on my 07 Hypermotard owned from new (a bike Moto Minx referred to as a party bike, that said I love a party!), I did belts, check tappets, oils filter, chain adjustment, plus all-around general checks, etc in the time it took you to get to your own belts, slight exaggeration I know but what a faff you had getting there what was Ducati thinking, to be fair there was only 3500 miles on the HM now 5K.
I think I mentioned this in a previous comment when the bike was a week old I wanted to go to Scotland, with 500 miles on it and expecting to do 1200 more this would have taken it way over its 1st service required for warranty. My dealer knowing me supplied the parts i.e. oil/filter and let me do it.
On checking the belts I was shocked at how loose both belts were, way looser than the belts you show here so I called Ducati. On talking to them they reckoned it was an oversight in the factory and the bike was covered with warranty and not to worry, stuck in the Highlands of Scotland - GREAT.
The best bit was when changing the oil, was I F'd Off to see a tappet collet stuck to the magnetic drain plug (I recall our favorite Narcistic Workshop Motorcycle Engineer and Oritor doing a vid saying magnetic plugs were shite, REALLY!).
Ducati told me, the heads are built on the bench and one of the ladies (not my words Minx) probably dropped one and it worked its way to the sump, advice was to ride it anyway and bring it to the dealer on my return.
1.3K later I did and he said all collets were present? and on checking in April they were.
All that said, I'm sure now the Workshop has a Shed instead of a Lockup like me you're and champing at the bit to see some real engineering especially on his machine tools and all the promised projects due to be completed.
My favorites will be:-
Part 2 of Issac's mate's tail tidy, I know it was being made of 3mm plate, it will probably make the front end a little light but hey, he could've wasted a tenner buying one.
The 50cc 2 stroke engine he is designing from scratch including carb and a turbo'd scooter thing.
Some poor bastards RG500 engine rebuild taken to bits about 5 years ago will be a gem to watch. I honestly saw an RG500 rolling Chassis for sale at an English Auto Jumble a few years ago, I did look for the owner to quiz him but to no avail.
The piece de resistance has to be the AM Challenge where he accepted to build something better than the Ordinary Alan Millyard.
I did ask him if it's going to be already designed, built, and running Hossack Engine, now pretentiousness renamed "HUDSON Hossack" It appears he's keeping that a secret. I cant wait to see the HUDSON influence, I'm not sure making it from orange plastic is a great idea though I guess the other few bits will be innovatively manufactured and designed in a different colour?
That will get the Rimmers fannies dripping wet (formally known as Matt's Gang).
I honestly mean to bring a smile and no offense to you and I'm good if you wish to delete my comment. But you already know that. Yeah, much to the disgust of many of the Rimmers he's thankfully still alive and well.
That said, I HOPE ALL THAT MAKES SENCE AND YOU'LL HEAR FROM ME IN A BIT.
Please tell me you deliberately misspelt ‘sense’ and I’ve just been trolled. Well, it’s not like you’ll say no *now* is it?
@@brabhamfreaman166 What would you like me to say?
Yep...lots of stuff in the way. Those were some really loose belts. Glad you got them changed. Not much clearance between the main pulley and the bottom of the case when trying to slide the belts on and off.
at least now ya know that its been done and no more painted 24v bulbs etc .... lol.
cheers.
Maybe worth mentioning checking the tensioner bearings , one of mine was dog rough so I replaced both .
I know. I did check them, obviously, but failed to mention it. I kind of take it for granted that anyone capable enough to be changing their own belts that they would instinctively to that as well.
Hi Andy. Due to watching your chanel, I purchased a ST3. Love it. What fuel grade is recommended?. We have 91, 95 and 98 in NZ.
That’s awesome, such great bikes to ride. 95 is what is recommended and what I use. If it’s not available I use 98.
Think you got lucky with that, hopefully runs different.
Is it the same struggle on St2?
Practically identical mate.
I did my ST2 like this.
Fairing, battery was virtually the same, seemed to be a bit more room than Andy's after pulling the belt covers off.
I marked the old belts before pulling them off, counted the teeth and transferred the marks to the new belts.
And I pulled my plugs and turned the back wheel to rotate the motor.
It ain’t hard is it 😅
I think I'll be the first viewer today
You were....congratulations?
It's like scoring a parking spot next to the entry to Woolies on a Saturday at 11.37am...sorta...
🤣
Andy did you know Delboy had a heart attack?
Hi Banditnev,
I don't know if Andy does or doesn't know, I'm sure he wishes him well as there's been way too much water under the bridge over a difference of opinion about maintenance and tool selection.
With a large % of the UK going through another bout of Kungflu there's more pressing issues.
So wishing Dell all the best too.
@@ya33a I'm sure Andy would wish him well as he doesn't look like that kind of person.
Yes I know, you don't wish that on anyone.
Have you ever owned or considered. a Moto Guzzi? Just asking
I already have owned and worked on Grade tractors and other heavy equipment, no need for a Guzzi -
Have not owned, yes I would consider.
And that right there is why don't ride Dukes
No. That there is why you don't want to work on one, riding one is awesome.
Some old Ferraris get the timing belt adjusted the same way. Learned that from @ratarossa