An informative video good in its detail but I believe that the tensioning pulley should only be rotated anti clockwise to achieve correct belt tension. Clockwise brings the toothed belt section dangerously close to each other as they pass between the pulleys
Hi mate, sorry for the super slow reply, you've got a very good point! They are due a check so I'll adjust them anti clockwise to be on the safe side. Thank you for the info 😎👍
Hi Andrew, just watched the video and read your comment. I’m hoping to attempt this for the first time. When you say only rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise do you mean always work in an anti-clockwise direction? Would appreciate any expansion on this or other tips. Thanks
Exactly right - it's not just about the distance between the belts - it's also to do with the pressure of the belt and the resulting direction on the locking nut. If you look at how you installed the pulley the pressure of the belt is trying to undo the nut. If you did it the other way the pressure would turn the nut to tighten it - hence it's the safest way. Hope this makes sense.
I've done two belt changes on my 916 motor, and they too looked great when removed, no signs of deterioration. So that is three sets of belts, originals plus two new sets for 27,000 miles. I also checked my valve clearances yearly during that 27k and finally decided to adjust my valves at 25k, which were actually still just in spec. Only two flaking rockers but not on the contact surfaces, just small spots on the sides of the rockers. I was told early on in the ownership of my bike to allow the bike to sit at idle at cold start for 90 seconds minimum, which I do religiously. After the bike is warm, just start and go. I also use Amsoil 20w-50 V twin synthetic oil. My bike runs like a swiss watch on steriods.
Nice one Griz! This is a job that's always made out to be complicated and isn't cheap to get done. It just needs some time and patience, very satisfying to complete. Well done for taking it on and thanks for sharing. 👍
Ah thank you mate! 😎🙏 it's funny because it's not really all that bad of a job to do. It took me forever (like it always does when filing) as it was my 1st go but I feel a lot more confident now and won't hesitate to do them again in the future! And thanks again mate, I'm glad you enjoyed 👌
You do not need to count the belt, or number of teeth with tippex. Bizarre. If the new belt is correct, it will fit....youre not going to squeeze in another tooth or two between cams fitting the new one....it is precise. When you tighten the belt up correctly, it will fit exactly as it should. It's the TDC of the cams and cam lock tool that is important, which you already did
For real. This is a great tutorial video. However I have not the patients nor the tools for the job. Yes it can be pricey to pay the dealership to do the work. But I’d rather pay the maintenance fee than mess up my own bike. Thanks for the video. Cheers mate. 🍻
Can we just just the belts to see the condition? There has to be a better balance between taking care of what we love and not having it as a money pit. Alex, 96 SP3
Liked and sub’d. But… no need to mark the belts. 😎👍 Good for you tackling it yourself, the dreaded belt bill and lack of service space in the biking season means you are now free of the shackles! 😅
@@SixthGearMotorcycles hope this doesn’t sound like a daft question but…. The front belt is removed at TDC with the locking tool in place. Am I right in thinking the rear belt is removed at the same time or do you replace the front belt and then move on to the rear belt and set that cylinder at TDC? Hope that makes sense. Thank you.
This is a great tutorial video. However I have not the patients nor the tools for the job. Yes it can be pricey to pay the dealership to do the work. But I’d rather pay the maintenance fee than mess up my own bike. Thanks for the video. Cheers mate. 🍻
An informative video good in its detail but I believe that the tensioning pulley should only be rotated anti clockwise to achieve correct belt tension. Clockwise brings the toothed belt section dangerously close to each other as they pass between the pulleys
Hi mate, sorry for the super slow reply, you've got a very good point! They are due a check so I'll adjust them anti clockwise to be on the safe side. Thank you for the info 😎👍
Hi Andrew, just watched the video and read your comment. I’m hoping to attempt this for the first time. When you say only rotate the tensioner anti-clockwise do you mean always work in an anti-clockwise direction? Would appreciate any expansion on this or other tips. Thanks
Exactly right - it's not just about the distance between the belts - it's also to do with the pressure of the belt and the resulting direction on the locking nut. If you look at how you installed the pulley the pressure of the belt is trying to undo the nut. If you did it the other way the pressure would turn the nut to tighten it - hence it's the safest way. Hope this makes sense.
I've done two belt changes on my 916 motor, and they too looked great when removed, no signs of deterioration. So that is three sets of belts, originals plus two new sets for 27,000 miles. I also checked my valve clearances yearly during that 27k and finally decided to adjust my valves at 25k, which were actually still just in spec. Only two flaking rockers but not on the contact surfaces, just small spots on the sides of the rockers. I was told early on in the ownership of my bike to allow the bike to sit at idle at cold start for 90 seconds minimum, which I do religiously. After the bike is warm, just start and go. I also use Amsoil 20w-50 V twin synthetic oil. My bike runs like a swiss watch on steriods.
Great stuff mate 😎👍
Nice one Griz! This is a job that's always made out to be complicated and isn't cheap to get done. It just needs some time and patience, very satisfying to complete. Well done for taking it on and thanks for sharing. 👍
Ah thank you mate! 😎🙏 it's funny because it's not really all that bad of a job to do. It took me forever (like it always does when filing) as it was my 1st go but I feel a lot more confident now and won't hesitate to do them again in the future! And thanks again mate, I'm glad you enjoyed 👌
My, what a lovely little Ducky you have there! Quite beautiful, I must say.
Thank you mate! 😃😎🙏
You do not need to count the belt, or number of teeth with tippex. Bizarre. If the new belt is correct, it will fit....youre not going to squeeze in another tooth or two between cams fitting the new one....it is precise. When you tighten the belt up correctly, it will fit exactly as it should. It's the TDC of the cams and cam lock tool that is important, which you already did
Exactly what I was thinking
He's a virgin belt fitter, gives him piece of mind he's not screwed up ... don't be so nit picky ffs.
Thanks mate, it’s nice to see someone gets it! 🙄😂🙌
I’ll probably never do it on my SP3 but happy to have the insights. Thanks
Ah cool mate, glad you enjoyed 😎🙏
For real. This is a great tutorial video. However I have not the patients nor the tools for the job. Yes it can be pricey to pay the dealership to do the work. But I’d rather pay the maintenance fee than mess up my own bike. Thanks for the video. Cheers mate. 🍻
Can we just just the belts to see the condition? There has to be a better balance between taking care of what we love and not having it as a money pit. Alex, 96 SP3
Liked and sub’d.
But… no need to mark the belts. 😎👍
Good for you tackling it yourself, the dreaded belt bill and lack of service space in the biking season means you are now free of the shackles! 😅
Awesome Griz shame about the fuel connector thing shit happens anyway you take care and ride safe TTFN
Thanks mate, yeah that was a pain but all sorted now 😃 all the best 😎👍
That’s a great tutorial with lots of plain speak, thank you.
Your welcome, I hope it helps you 😎👍
@@SixthGearMotorcycles hope this doesn’t sound like a daft question but….
The front belt is removed at TDC with the locking tool in place. Am I right in thinking the rear belt is removed at the same time or do you replace the front belt and then move on to the rear belt and set that cylinder at TDC?
Hope that makes sense.
Thank you.
Check the tensioner bearings for play
Thanks for pointing that out mate, I did but didn't show it on the video 😕👍
This is a great tutorial video. However I have not the patients nor the tools for the job. Yes it can be pricey to pay the dealership to do the work. But I’d rather pay the maintenance fee than mess up my own bike. Thanks for the video. Cheers mate. 🍻
Totally get it mate, my budget is a bit tight so I try to do all my own servicing. Glad you enjoyed it though 😎👍🙌
Jman G , "patience".
So werden die Riemen nicht gespannt,spannen immer gegen den Uhrzeigersinn,die Verzahnung liegt sonst viel zu dicht !
45 degree's
Cheers mate 😎👍