Carson, super job of showing this repair. Thanks for documenting your epic struggle with the pins. I could feel your pain. When I was about 14, I helped dad do a repair on a sickle bar hay mower. The most time consuming task was replacing the triangle cutter blades. They were held on with 1/4” rivets. The only way to take them off was to cut the button heads off with a cold chisel. My dad could hit them about four times and pop them right off. He handed me the chisel and sledgehammer. It took me a dozen or so strikes to cut one off. He left me to it and went over to work on the Pittman arm bearing. After a few minutes, I missed the chisel and hit my thumb. It was a glancing blow but still, hurt enough that I screamed. He knew what had happened and came over to take a look. It wasn’t bleeding or broken. However, it was numb and apparent that it would leave a bruise. Then he bestowed upon me a bit if wisdom… it came to mind immediately when I saw you crunch your thumb. He said, “Son, when your arm gets tired from swinging the hammer… quit aiming it at your thumb!” Carson, that was way back in about 1967, I still think that he might have been into something! Good luck with the rake, I hope it holds up for years to come.
any chances you have pictures of how the motor is assemble and drives the drum? I'm in the process of building one and decided to go from chain to direct drive and can't figure out how the motor and bearing should be setup without sticking way out the side
Why would you even think of chain drive.. that would really hold up in the dirt. There all direct drive. It nothing to it to set up a sqare block bearing an motor. But you need the right type of motor.
I would have welded a steel rod or grade 8 bolt to the side you were hammering on, then you could have used a bigger sledgehammer to beat on it. Heat would have helped as well. Check out Andrew Camarata's channel, if you already haven't. He has all kinds of issues w/ pins, bolts, etc. and he has a some good methods to get them out. Enjoyed the video.
It doesn't look like you know much about taking out pins. would be a 2 hour job at most even with them as tight as they were. also when putting in pins or bushings if real tight throw them in Freezer for a day they will shrink just a hair before they warm up.
You are right, I'm no expert in pin removal. I'm sure somebody more vetted could have done it faster. But the pins probably hadn't moved in 20 years. They were rusted in place. Having two flanges didn't help either. Like you said I'm sure there was an easier way to do it than what I did.
You didnt need any new tools if you knew what your doing an you wouldnt need new pins. A simple 3/4" shaft with a long handle welded on it and a 20lb sleg hammer and a 2nd person to hold the handle on the pin driver. 20 min they both be out. But it take heavey eqipment Experience
All you so called u tube pro do thing the hardest way posible. Air arc blow them carbid teeth off clean in 3 seconds. I have not watched past your first grind but ill bet you weld them on with a mig.. mig an carbid dont mix. 3/32 7018 or 8018 only.. Lol omg a tiny punch to fail at driving a 1" pin out. Any time you need to drive a pin out .. find a pin one size smaller longer then the pin to come out. 2" from one end weld a 3/4" pipe or shaft on to form an L as a handle 2' long. Drive the pin out with a 20lb sleg hammer. In your case a 3/4" shaft.
Any tips on how you fixed the leak on the motor? I've got one apart and getting ready to weld up the worn shaft where the two seals ride and turn it back down to get a better surface for them to seal against. Do you happen to know what diameter that part of the shaft is? I'm getting 2.738" with a micrometer but am wondering if it should possibly be a thousandth or two larger. It's got a fairly good amount of uneven wear. I've got the two seal part numbers. 6676913 and 6676915. Any chance you found the inner seal '13 cheaper that $100? The outer one is cheap at $20 or so.
Carson, super job of showing this repair. Thanks for documenting your epic struggle with the pins.
I could feel your pain. When I was about 14, I helped dad do a repair on a sickle bar hay mower. The most time consuming task was replacing the triangle cutter blades.
They were held on with 1/4” rivets. The only way to take them off was to cut the button heads off with a cold chisel. My dad could hit them about four times and pop them right off. He handed me the chisel and sledgehammer. It took me a dozen or so strikes to cut one off.
He left me to it and went over to work on the Pittman arm bearing. After a few minutes, I missed the chisel and hit my thumb. It was a glancing blow but still, hurt enough that I screamed.
He knew what had happened and came over to take a look. It wasn’t bleeding or broken. However, it was numb and apparent that it would leave a bruise. Then he bestowed upon me a bit if wisdom… it came to mind immediately when I saw you crunch your thumb.
He said, “Son, when your arm gets tired from swinging the hammer… quit aiming it at your thumb!”
Carson, that was way back in about 1967, I still think that he might have been into something!
Good luck with the rake, I hope it holds up for years to come.
Bummer about the thumb! That looks like a fun piece of equipment to use! Nice repair!
any chances you have pictures of how the motor is assemble and drives the drum? I'm in the process of building one and decided to go from chain to direct drive and can't figure out how the motor and bearing should be setup without sticking way out the side
Why would you even think of chain drive.. that would really hold up in the dirt. There all direct drive. It nothing to it to set up a sqare block bearing an motor. But you need the right type of motor.
I would have welded a steel rod or grade 8 bolt to the side you were hammering on, then you could have used a bigger sledgehammer to beat on it. Heat would have helped as well. Check out Andrew Camarata's channel, if you already haven't. He has all kinds of issues w/ pins, bolts, etc. and he has a some good methods to get them out.
Enjoyed the video.
That’s a good idea! 👍 Andrew has some great videos and is very resourceful and persistent.
It doesn't look like you know much about taking out pins. would be a 2 hour job at most even with them as tight as they were. also when putting in pins or bushings if real tight throw them in Freezer for a day they will shrink just a hair before they warm up.
You are right, I'm no expert in pin removal. I'm sure somebody more vetted could have done it faster. But the pins probably hadn't moved in 20 years. They were rusted in place. Having two flanges didn't help either. Like you said I'm sure there was an easier way to do it than what I did.
You didnt need any new tools if you knew what your doing an you wouldnt need new pins. A simple 3/4" shaft with a long handle welded on it and a 20lb sleg hammer and a 2nd person to hold the handle on the pin driver. 20 min they both be out. But it take heavey eqipment Experience
All you so called u tube pro do thing the hardest way posible. Air arc blow them carbid teeth off clean in 3 seconds. I have not watched past your first grind but ill bet you weld them on with a mig.. mig an carbid
dont mix. 3/32 7018 or 8018 only..
Lol omg a tiny punch to fail at driving a 1" pin out. Any time you need to drive a pin out .. find a pin one size smaller longer then the pin to come out. 2" from one end weld a 3/4" pipe or shaft on to form an L as a handle 2' long. Drive the pin out with a 20lb sleg hammer. In your case a 3/4" shaft.
Any tips on how you fixed the leak on the motor? I've got one apart and getting ready to weld up the worn shaft where the two seals ride and turn it back down to get a better surface for them to seal against. Do you happen to know what diameter that part of the shaft is? I'm getting 2.738" with a micrometer but am wondering if it should possibly be a thousandth or two larger. It's got a fairly good amount of uneven wear. I've got the two seal part numbers. 6676913 and 6676915. Any chance you found the inner seal '13 cheaper that $100? The outer one is cheap at $20 or so.
I think this was the part number 6664815 Oil Seal $15.69+$25 Freight. We had to remove the splines from the motor.