Great video. The only thing I ask is if you could post the clutch clearance specs for each configuration. I had a couple that had a different number of friction disks and the paper guide only gave specs without the compression tool
Please make a video for troubleshooting... so that we can decide if we can just flush fluid, change filter, change conducting plate, change valve springs... (All these we can do without taking down the tranny), or tranny has to come down to change the fiction plates, and/or sprag bearing, etc... These transmissions can be had for $500 on ebay. Instead of taking ours apart / out a few times, it might be better to swap with a used one, put on new conductor plate, filter, adapter, and fluid. Swapping tranny does not require programming (like the meghatronic in BMW), am I right? I see a "722 618 0" stamped on my tranny. All I need is another "722 618 0", regardless of what model / year of the car it came off from, right?
Hi again, I have tried to swap a 722.616 bell housing to a 722.644! Everything was fine and exciting until the moment I realize I have a 2 mm gap preventing me to bolt it back on. I synched all the clutches, so I could insert all the clutch packs easily! Have removed and replace everything multiple times and still can't get it in entirely, any light would be amazingly helpful, thanks in advance!
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Hello, Please I have issue that is yet to be solved with my CLK Mercedes 722.6 Gear/Transmission Box, same as this one in the video. The car suddenly wont shift from Gear One, and soon after the car wont select or engage at all bringing the car to a full stop and no movement. I have had Mechanics/Experts work on the gear box, they change the gear pump(as explained in this video you called it oil pump) and also the RPM Sensor (Black Conductor) and after driving the car for about 2hours, I started hearing some whining sound (sound similar to faulty power steering pump use to make when changing direction) from the transmission box and I faintly smell the boiling transmission fluid. Shortly after the car goes to emergency running and wont shift again. I changed the gear/transmission box completely for a new one, but same thing issue arises after driving for about same hours as the old one- boiling transmission fluid smell, and car not shifting and wont engage and also the sound return. The mechanics that worked on the car seems to have no idea as to what is causing the gear/transmission box (oil pump) to fail and damage. Please what do you, in your professional view think can be the cause of the problem? Please
Please correct for 34:20 TURNS COUNTER CLOCKWISE! The Rear Sun Gear and K3 Clutch Hub should turn Counter Clockwise and Lock to the Clock! The same as F1.
How much clearance is between the parking pawl gear and the housing or pawl itself ? Could the tip of one of the teeth be bent up by the parking pawl when put in park while not at a completely stopped and cause a light tap every revolution of the output staff.
flange nut holding drive coupler to output shaft, is it necessary to buy new one every time or can we loctite the old one in place? USPS lost mine and been waiting a week for it...
Thank you for the video! Question: Has anyone put new teflon rings (say Transtec or others) that leaked during the air test, kept them and they actually developed a problem in the actual vehicle? (I say this because other kinds of Teflon seals need to "adjust under pressure" on most applications to actually seat/seal)
hi professor, i am working on one benz M L 320 transmission oil leaking from the top black round cover on the gear box, how to remove this round top cover? what is it purpose.
Do you offer rebuilt Nag1's for sale?I have a 2000ml320 that seems to hold gears pretty long,I have done 2 fluid and filter changes and a couple more drain and fills,as well as 13pin connector, also did not see any atf ingress in the harness or tcm.i have no stored TCM codes no engine light,scanned with an Icarsoft MB.
I have a question... Can I rebuild a NAG1 that chewed the tabs off the oil pump? There were no large chunks, and everything looks okay, I am using a different valve body and solenoids. The little tabs were completely gone.
What a great video! With this video I have confidence that I could do this in my own garage. There are a couple of delays, like if I want to set the clutches on the tight side of spec I will have to do everything and order parts... but there's probably no way around that. I bought one of these from a dismantler and the B1 sprag bushing was galled, and smelled of burnt clutch. I'm guessing it had exactly the issue you described as most common. Fortunately they are taking it back and replacing it for me. I am curious though, you never mentioned the torque for the T27s that go into the B1 clutch housing, or the T40s that go from bell to case. I'm sure I can look that up if I have to, but it would be nice to add.
Hello I am writing from Turkey I have w204 with 722.6 transmission my car gives P0731 error code I have problem at first gear what can I do? Which part I will change? Can you help me please?
How many quatz of ATF+4 should we use for a new Nag1? I'm seeing conflicting info. The shop that installed my put 10 quatz in and now I'm seeing 7 on Southern Hotrod's install instructions. My trans will work fine when it's cold but as soon as it gets to operating temp I lose all gears.
Absolutely amazing and in-depth video. Is there a follow up with the aftermarket video - I do not see it linked in the description? Thank you for the free knowledge
Hello.... thank you for the useful video, butvI got a question, I replaced my car Transmission Conductor Plate NAG1 for 2007 Chrysler 300C 5.7l AWD, it works then not shifting, they told me your Transmission need programming to work correct, someone else told me it doesn't need programming, so I got confused does it need Programming as you a professional??? Cuz am afraid to pay money for programming then if it doesn't work then you waste the money for nothing. Thank you
Excellent instructor, excellent course! I ask if anyone can inform me how to buy the drum used by the 6L80 gear teacher to compress the piston spring. Thank you
I love y’all lol but I was wanting to double check but it doesn’t have a lock up shaft seal for the converter correct ? Cause I just slapped the new 3,000 stall converter on and strapped on a new hemi to it with nitrous lol. For the life of me couldn’t remember .
I have a 2001 mercedes C320 with 722.6 transmission. I changed the conductor plate but the two sensors still show different reading on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. Could it be a defective "new" conductor plate or it is something else. Thank you
Great video!!! I'm troubleshooting a stalling issue on a 06 Charger SXT and wanted to rule out Trans solenoids. Would failure in any of the solenoids cause stalling at around 30 mph??? Multiple sensors have been changed, no check engine codes, still shut off going down the road. No shifting issues, smooth running motor/trans. Any help appreciated.
Could’ve sworn the 05 and 06 Models had that Gas Tank Recall that would cause it to stall after filling it up. Is this no matter what gas level you have? Your torque converter could possibly be failing. What speed are you at everytime it shuts down?
@BWADaniel Random speeds. Sometimes at take off. As far as fuel levels, it varies also. About the only thing I haven't looked into IS the torque converter. I recently pulled and cleaned the cats and installed new O2 sensors to rule that out.. Thanks for your reply
what is the next thing to check when the transmission still does not shift to higher gears after the conductor plate and solenoids have been changed???
Anyone know what could cause an “improper gear ratio” code after wheel spin? Trans had conductor plate changed as well as fluid and filter. Had the improper gear ratio code before and after. Car has stock wheel and tire size and of course differential
I have a 2004 sprinter with a 722.6 transmission. I have a shift flare from 2-3 and I have replaced Shift solenoid Conductor plate Harness connector Overlap valve sleeve kit But I still have the flare from 2-3 any idea what I should look at next?
Did you ever get to the bottom of it? Sounds like your might be just valve body. I have slam under heavy accel at 1-2, then flare at every other shift, but once in gear no slip at all. I replaced conductor plate and then also tried entirely different (but used) valve body and solenoids but zero change in symptoms. I thought for sure it was valve body related, but after swapping these swaps that I did figure it is not in the valve body.
I appreciate your through explanation of the workings of this transmission. I have a 722.622 that won’t shift passed third gear. It goes into limp home mode after failing to shift to fourth. I have codes 051 and 147 using Star Diagnostics. Should I focus on the 3-4 valves? The 3-4 solenoid?
My Nag1 in my 2008 SRT DODGE CHARGER IS WHINING... I TOOK THE BELT OFF AND IT STILL WHINES BUT NOW IT GOES INTO LIMP MODE AND DOESN'T SHIFT PASS 3RD GEAR
(722.6) How many litres total 7.5 or 8 ? Torque converter capacity ? Drain pan capacity ? Have shifting issues after fluid change ( low or overfilled) C200, w204, 2009 model What is the normal Mercedes transmission operating temperature?
IIRC, 180°f is the temperature to check fluid level. Hopefully you have dipstick tool, mine is kept in Ziploc type bag in the spare tire compartment. Slightly not enough is far safer than too much - Too much fluid can be catastrophic!! Be patient while adding, checking and adding as necessary until results are spot on. It takes less time to add and check a dozen times versus having to drain some and starting over because one gets overzealous pouring ATF 4/134 into the thin, air choked tube The answer to how much fluid is: hot fluid (180 degrees), car level, fluid at or just below (like a fingernail thickness) FULL Mark on dip tool (yes, it is a tool which means DO NOT leave it under the hood). Shift issues could possibly be from long interval prior to your fluid change. If old fluid had way too many miles, then built up crud might build up in valve body as well as other areas. Whenever I buy a used Benz, I automatically pull valve body and disassemble for a good internal cleaning. Another couple of issues could include fluid passing through 13 pin connector and or conductor plate. You have not said if problem was immediately after or if it worked for awhile after you changed fluid. If you did remove valve body ... did you get the white plastic shifty thingy mahbop hooked in just right?
Why no drain plugs ? Would make changing fluid so much easier, instead of sucking out via dipstick to at least cycle out to fresh fluid like I do with every oil change, I like to a quarts to keep it nice and fresh.
I'm figuring, from your video's, the biggest suspect in my box is pressure valves or (less likely) my torque converter. Faults in my TCM are varying from 0733: Gear 3 implausible or slipping, 0734: Gear 4 implausible or slipping, 0730: Transmission has an impermissible transmission ratio, 0731: Gear 1 implausible or slipping and 2784: speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 implausible. Am I correct? My box is slipping in al gears to the point where (when its warming up) it has no drive at all and starts to make funny noises from the front of the box. Do you have some pinpointers on my diagnose or maybe even a troubleshooting diagram? I figure I might be in a little over my head. Thank you in advance!!
Hmmm, the noise is probably the pump whining. It sounds like you have low pressure. If you drop the pan, you might have a bunch of clutch material in there clogging your filter up. It sounds like it’s time for a rebuild.
Great video. I believe the PWM on the solenoids is to regulate the current, like a constant current regulator. This way voltage spikes won't destroy the solenoids or shorten their lifespan. Pretty ingenious design. If you happen to know what current they are supposed to run at then you can probably get a constant current/constant voltage (CC/CV) module or a PWM module and set the current on that to test the solenoids but that is probably overkill.
Yes, there are differences. I’m know expert on the variations. But generally speaking, there is the 330 smaller 722.6 and the 580 larger 722.6. Plus, there are different clutch counts internally depending on applications.
I just got the 722.662 (W5A300) out of my 1998 ML320. Attempting to tackle this myself. Question: Upon returning from a long trip (pulling another car), the transmission seemed to start getting hot. It would downshift into 4th (or even 3rd) and stay there until I pulled over and let it rest a few minutes. When it would do this, it would ALSO start blowing fluid (seemingly) out around the pan (from the head, I assume). As long as I drove it under 55MPH, it was okay. Any faster, and it would start leaking fluid (especially around passenger side of the pan) and want to shift to 4th (and stay there). No codes! Even connected factory STAR-Diagnosis and nothing! No slippage, etc. Shifts smoothly, no shuttering, etc. New filter/fluid/pan gasket did not help. Once I tear into this, any tips as to WHERE I may want to pay special attention to?
well you may or may not be having this issue still but just my two cents/. sounds like fluid temp was getting too high, shifting into that lower gear it was trying to cool itself down. make sure fluid level is okay and id try putting a deeper pan on it to see if that helps, (considering you said shift quality was still good) I would assume the clutches aren't burnt yet. hopefully you figured it out!
Hi, i have exactly same issue, did you ever solved yours? Mine is running fine, until at some point it is going into similr like limp mode, cant shift any up/down and then starts pushing out oil from as far as it looks "breather plug" on top. By restarting engine, it clears off, car runs fine again. What coupd cause this?
@@8KRealisticSolutions As Brandon mentioned.. fluid temps and level are the reason here. YES, I resolved the issue - but here is what happened: So I basically said the hell with it and found another (used) transmission from a low-mileage ML320 and did the swap myself. All seemed well the first few miles until the NEW transmission started doing almost the same! Long story short: my trans level checker I had purchased some 10 years ago was wrong! It was off by a few milimeters - causing my fluid level to be LOW. When the 722.6 is low on fluid, it WILL overheat. One of the things that the 722.6 transmission control module is programmed to do when the trans temp exceeds a certain value is drop into a lower gear and lock-in. Excessive heat will cause issues with the gaskets and seals: allowing the fuid to essentially blow out around any gasket that can not take the heat. On the old trans, I noticed the leak to be from the same area - passenger side towards the front. If I had to guesse... the pan gasket and/or connector o-ring (right in that area) just cannot take excessive heat. A new dipstick from eBay showed me I was low. After correcting the fluid level (on the new transmission), the overheating (locking into lower gears) was resolved. UNTIL.... I started towing. Then the problem came back. The solution? I installed an after-market trans cooler from Autozone ($75). Issue 100% resolved - even when pulling my 12 foot enclosed trailer through the mountains of central Mexico and Denver, CO. These transmissions are sensitive to fluid temp and level. VERY SENSITIVE! Ensure you got a good dipstick fluid checker and ensure your fluid level is correct. The the lesson here is simple: TWO transmissions (including a very low mile one) were doing the SAME EXACT THING all because I did not have the correct fluid level (off my just a tiny hair!!!). Check the fluid exactly as specified in the service manuals! Cold, then again at temp. And make DAMN SURE the level is as perfectly "in the center" of the dipstick "warm range" as you can get it. Be sure to drive it a good 20 minutes down the highway to ensure 100% the trans is GOOD AND WARM and CHECK AGAIN!!! The service techs are not kidding when they say "the 722.6 is extremely sensitive to fluid level". The plus side (for me) is this: I now have a newer transmission in my ML AND... the updated transfer-case w/ the 49/51 torque split (vs the 50/50) and turning corners is now smoother. I learned that - upon removing the OLD transmission - the rear output seal had been leaking - allowing slow loss of fluid over time. I made sure to install NEW seals and orings across-the-board on the new trans that I installed. Now it is bone dry under my car. Finally... that pesky shifter lever oring is notorious for leaking - ensure that is not the source of your fluid loss (in the same area). The seal is only a few bucks. To install it, you do NOT need the special tool - I press them in w/ a small 1/4" socket and a long bolt/nut. Presses right in. The old one pry's out easily with a large flat head screwdriver. Regarding YOUR case... blowing out the TOP BREATHER would lead me to believe that yours is overfilled (but I could be wrong). Again.. you need to CHECK THE FLUID with a GOOD dipstick checker - and do it according to the exact specs outlined in the service manual (FLAT ground... cold/25c AND again hot at 80c). Absolutely NO SHORTCUTS and NO SUBSTITUTIONS. I did an entire trans swap - and STILL had the same issue because my fluid level was off by a smidgen. Hope this helps. -Dean p.s. Did I forget to mention these transmissions are SENSITIVE to fluid level? lol...
@@deanrantala huge respect for your time to give me full detail on your case. I will use your advise to further troubleshoot my gearbox, if i have to say at this point i also suspect level issue as the dipstick i use is some kind of inbranded and i see the sound pipe is almost 90 degr. Juat before penetrating to gerbox, when i look at the line ņd dipstick i am kind a doubt if that stick can pass without resistance that corner, so i think my gearbox ia overfilled by service as 1 scenario, i will drain complete and refill with care. 2nd theory is that there is an air admition at some point, that oil is foaming up, and then expeled tgrough breather as there is a build up of air at internals, but i am atill observing. It happens intermitent driving normal and then boom gear is locked, no manual shift, and then some oil is pushed out, i think it must be air involved as hydraulic characteristics alone would not lead to leak from top breather, this musy be air or foams trapped and tending to expand and escape.
@@8KRealisticSolutions Take a close look at this video and the other one (also by siu automotive) that details the valve body rebuild. The oil cavity on these transmissons is shaped kind of like a pyramid. As the transmission warms up, the rate at which the fluid rises increases. If I understand the physics correctly, this is why it is so sensitive. Just above the valve body is a large check valve that is meant to keep fluid from freely flowing into the tunnel (once it has expanded to a level above the VB). This check valve is not the only place fluid has to reach the main tunnel. Once fluid begins to substantially flood the main tunnel of this transmission - it WILL begin to whip and beat the hot fluid... causing it to foam. Once you get get this in the main tunnel to any considerable degree, you are almost certain to have fluid purging from tha breather vent. Foamy fluid causes elevated temps and overheating: the fluid can no longer pump correctly, does not cool correctly, etc. Bottom line: overfilled trans will cause foaming (air issues) and overheating. Once the fluid is foaming and temps are over threshold.. your TCM locks the transmission into a lower gear in a last ditch attempt to cool it down.
How do I know if the conductor are is faulty? I've got one that won't go out of limp mode ? I hate to do a complete overhaul if the only problem might be the conductor plate . Will codes show anything??
Hi Albert, did you find out what the problem was/is please? The 722.6 box in my Vito goes into limp mode once the box warms up a bit. I'm trying to find out whether I need to change the conductor plate or a solenoid
Watch his video on aftermarket fixes for the valvebody. He presents 3 plus options (Sonnax has zip kits that are drop in without drilling, which MIGHT be a good option) Conductor plates are suspect after 100k miles. Also, the connector collar (behind the 7mm nut) leaks and is only 15 dollars. After pulling your solenoids to replace the CONDUCTOR PLATE, you can check the ohms on each. Use a 9 volt battery (or 12v) to check operation, too. In short, take the valvebody body apart and clean it! It most likely needs a Transgo or Sonnax kit. Hopefully you can do this properly and eliminate need for transmission shop. If you can't clean it and the torque converter fails, it will send debris into everything and game over (ask me how I know)
It was the conductor plate on my box. The box was secondhand and under warranty but it would have taken a couple of weeks to get it fixed professionally and the Vito is my taxi so I was losing income. I decided to take a chance and ordered a new conductor plate, £130, on a Monday. It arrived on the Tuesday and I changed it myself on the Wednesday with the box in the vehicle. There are a few videos on this job on TH-cam, it's not difficult. Test drive on the Thursday, no more limp mode, magic! My thanks to John Swanger who was the first to suggest changing the conductor plate. One video said it's the speed sensors in the conductor plate that fail.
Thank you for the excellent video. I have a NAG1 in my 09 Charger Pursuit w/149k miles. I recently began feeling a shimmy, which has become a vibration/shaking which appears when I'm lightly accelerating around 35mph and above. I think it's transmission related, but I'm not positive. I've changed fluid and filter(no apparent improvement), and inspected the rag couplers on the front & rear of the propeller shaft(they look fine), but I can't really see the center driveshaft bearing because the oem dual exhaust is in the way. Do any of these symptoms sound familiar to you? What would you suggest I do next?
@ryanledger9888 yeah, I've considered that possibility. I was holding off, due to the expense and difficulty of changing that piece, doing that. I pulled the driveshaft and replaced the carrier bearing, though the old one didn't look bad. I did find a tennis ball that was caught in the tunnel and against the driveshaft, which was pretty unexpected. I don't know if that has helped, yet, but I'm pretty skeptical.
A very impressive video. Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to make it and for putting it on TH-cam
Totally agree
Very good, thanks so much, now I am no more afraid to rebuild my 722.6
We appreciate your videos. Your a high level tech. With great teaching abilities. Very informative.
Hands down one of the best videos I have seen in a long time.
omg!!! THIS IS GOLDEN!!! i will download every single instructional videos tonight... THANK YOU SO SO SO MUCH!!!
You know your stuff- thank you for teaching us.
Well presented with a touch of humor.
Wow, the best video on 722.6 I've ever seen. Thank you very much, great job.
Great video. The only thing I ask is if you could post the clutch clearance specs for each configuration. I had a couple that had a different number of friction disks and the paper guide only gave specs without the compression tool
Pure Gold video!
Please make a video for troubleshooting... so that we can decide if we can just flush fluid, change filter, change conducting plate, change valve springs... (All these we can do without taking down the tranny), or tranny has to come down to change the fiction plates, and/or sprag bearing, etc... These transmissions can be had for $500 on ebay. Instead of taking ours apart / out a few times, it might be better to swap with a used one, put on new conductor plate, filter, adapter, and fluid.
Swapping tranny does not require programming (like the meghatronic in BMW), am I right?
I see a "722 618 0" stamped on my tranny. All I need is another "722 618 0", regardless of what model / year of the car it came off from, right?
Very good excellent. Thanks a lot for coaching . Very very good .
Is wave plate necessary?
Wow what a amazing video!!! Thanks from Germany!
Hi again, I have tried to swap a 722.616 bell housing to a 722.644! Everything was fine and exciting until the moment I realize I have a 2 mm gap preventing me to bolt it back on. I synched all the clutches, so I could insert all the clutch packs easily! Have removed and replace everything multiple times and still can't get it in entirely, any light would be amazingly helpful, thanks in advance!
The best video transmisson out there.
Also ATSG software is good.
Excellent video!!!!!! Thank You.....
Thank you!
Hi how are you ? Thank you for your beautiful, informative videos... I have a big problem. After changing the board, testing the solenoids without pressurizing, complete disassembly of the valves, installation of Sonnax, draining of new BVA and converter...connector to controller, my problem remains the same...box in degraded mode and not more than 3000 revolutions.... It goes from D to R with jerk and does not shift gears... I cannot pressure test the solenoids.... thank you for your help...
Fantastic video, thankyou so much.
Hello,
Please I have issue that is yet to be solved with my CLK Mercedes 722.6 Gear/Transmission Box, same as this one in the video.
The car suddenly wont shift from Gear One, and soon after the car wont select or engage at all bringing the car to a full stop and no movement.
I have had Mechanics/Experts work on the gear box, they change the gear pump(as explained in this video you called it oil pump) and also the RPM Sensor (Black Conductor) and after driving the car for about 2hours, I started hearing some whining sound (sound similar to faulty power steering pump use to make when changing direction) from the transmission box and I faintly smell the boiling transmission fluid. Shortly after the car goes to emergency running and wont shift again.
I changed the gear/transmission box completely for a new one, but same thing issue arises after driving for about same hours as the old one- boiling transmission fluid smell, and car not shifting and wont engage and also the sound return.
The mechanics that worked on the car seems to have no idea as to what is causing the gear/transmission box (oil pump) to fail and damage.
Please what do you, in your professional view think can be the cause of the problem? Please
A really impressive video that helped me enormously. Greetings from Sindelfingen😁.
Hello. Do you clean and rebuild the body valve ? Would you be interested in repairing the conductor plate replacing the speed sensors?
Thank you very much for the awesome video. I am thinking to follow the instruction and overhaul my spare transmission 722.612 for my MB C250TD.
Please correct for 34:20 TURNS COUNTER CLOCKWISE! The Rear Sun Gear and K3 Clutch Hub should turn Counter Clockwise and Lock to the Clock! The same as F1.
Depends on whether you are looking at it from the camera angle or from the rear of the camera angle.
Priceless video
Muchísimas gracias que gran explicación, que buena explicación a fondo 👋🙏
Dang I went into mine thinking it was glorified torque flight. I'm getting old thanks for the video.
How much clearance is between the parking pawl gear and the housing or pawl itself ? Could the tip of one of the teeth be bent up by the parking pawl when put in park while not at a completely stopped and cause a light tap every revolution of the output staff.
Bless you for sharing your knowledge ...
Great detail well explained......i feel confident!!!!!
flange nut holding drive coupler to output shaft, is it necessary to buy new one every time or can we loctite the old one in place? USPS lost mine and been waiting a week for it...
1:27:04 valve solenoid test for those who don`t have enough time to overview the whole video for it.yw
Thank you for the video!
Question: Has anyone put new teflon rings (say Transtec or others) that leaked during the air test, kept them and they actually developed a problem in the actual vehicle?
(I say this because other kinds of Teflon seals need to "adjust under pressure" on most applications to actually seat/seal)
hi professor, i am working on one benz M L 320 transmission oil leaking from the top black round cover on the gear box, how to remove this round top cover? what is it purpose.
Fabuloso. Muchas gracias
If one of the torrington bearings pops out how do I get it back in and have it stay?
How do you remove the b1 Torrington bearing? Also where can i buy one?
Hi
Where can I get whole overhaul kit from?
I have 722.683 W 5 A 380
On my 2012 viano
W639 chassie OM642 engine
Where is the download for the workbook? It is not showing on that website.
Great job man
Do you offer rebuilt Nag1's for sale?I have a 2000ml320 that seems to hold gears pretty long,I have done 2 fluid and filter changes and a couple more drain and fills,as well as 13pin connector, also did not see any atf ingress in the harness or tcm.i have no stored TCM codes no engine light,scanned with an Icarsoft MB.
I have a question... Can I rebuild a NAG1 that chewed the tabs off the oil pump? There were no large chunks, and everything looks okay, I am using a different valve body and solenoids. The little tabs were completely gone.
So what if the clearances are off? Sorry for the amateur question but what do i do then?
Had mines rebuilt and just put it in and now the temperature sensor check engine light is on ????? Help
what happens when mechatronic side run out of oil ? what can be damaged when running 1 minute dry on low gas pedal
What a great video! With this video I have confidence that I could do this in my own garage. There are a couple of delays, like if I want to set the clutches on the tight side of spec I will have to do everything and order parts... but there's probably no way around that.
I bought one of these from a dismantler and the B1 sprag bushing was galled, and smelled of burnt clutch. I'm guessing it had exactly the issue you described as most common. Fortunately they are taking it back and replacing it for me. I am curious though, you never mentioned the torque for the T27s that go into the B1 clutch housing, or the T40s that go from bell to case. I'm sure I can look that up if I have to, but it would be nice to add.
Excellent video that helps a lot
Hi, how do I know if the friction disc are bad or damage? And, do you supply spare parts? Thanks, Regards Rundhaug
Hello I am writing from Turkey I have w204 with 722.6 transmission my car gives P0731 error code I have problem at first gear what can I do? Which part I will change? Can you help me please?
Can you help me sir , for my 6l80 transmission Chevy Tahoe ,in downshift they have ahh small shift shock in 2 gear, thank you sir God bless
How many quatz of ATF+4 should we use for a new Nag1? I'm seeing conflicting info. The shop that installed my put 10 quatz in and now I'm seeing 7 on Southern Hotrod's install instructions. My trans will work fine when it's cold but as soon as it gets to operating temp I lose all gears.
great vedio and information thank you so much...can i buy used transmission rebuild for w211 Mercedes 5gtronic
BEST VIDEO EVER
Nice demo,would like a little more sound volume to hear you clearer .but really good tech description,and good knowledge good teaching.thanks
WoW! this is very helpul just WoW! thank u so much!
I loved the video one of the best
Absolutely amazing and in-depth video. Is there a follow up with the aftermarket video - I do not see it linked in the description? Thank you for the free knowledge
Thanks and sorry, I forget to update the description. It’s here th-cam.com/video/4s6anW6fFgw/w-d-xo.html
@@siuautomotive Massive thanks again. Happily watching the videos. Thank you for sharing
Please I want a book that explains the parts of this gearbox
I have a problem with starting a car in reverse that does not work please help Mercedes 190E engine 1.8L petrol automatic gearbox
Hello.... thank you for the useful video, butvI got a question, I replaced my car Transmission Conductor Plate NAG1 for 2007 Chrysler 300C 5.7l AWD, it works then not shifting, they told me your Transmission need programming to work correct, someone else told me it doesn't need programming, so I got confused does it need Programming as you a professional???
Cuz am afraid to pay money for programming then if it doesn't work then you waste the money for nothing.
Thank you
Excellent instructor, excellent course!
I ask if anyone can inform me how to buy the drum used by the 6L80 gear teacher to compress the piston spring.
Thank you
I love y’all lol but I was wanting to double check but it doesn’t have a lock up shaft seal for the converter correct ? Cause I just slapped the new 3,000 stall converter on and strapped on a new hemi to it with nitrous lol. For the life of me couldn’t remember .
The seal for lockup is in the convertor. www.sonnax.com/parts/1289-front-cover-hub
I have a 2001 mercedes C320 with 722.6 transmission. I changed the conductor plate but the two sensors still show different reading on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. Could it be a defective "new" conductor plate or it is something else. Thank you
Great video!!! I'm troubleshooting a stalling issue on a 06 Charger SXT and wanted to rule out Trans solenoids. Would failure in any of the solenoids cause stalling at around 30 mph??? Multiple sensors have been changed, no check engine codes, still shut off going down the road. No shifting issues, smooth running motor/trans. Any help appreciated.
Could’ve sworn the 05 and 06 Models had that Gas Tank Recall that would cause it to stall after filling it up. Is this no matter what gas level you have? Your torque converter could possibly be failing. What speed are you at everytime it shuts down?
@BWADaniel Random speeds. Sometimes at take off. As far as fuel levels, it varies also. About the only thing I haven't looked into IS the torque converter. I recently pulled and cleaned the cats and installed new O2 sensors to rule that out.. Thanks for your reply
what is the next thing to check when the transmission still does not shift to higher gears after the conductor plate and solenoids have been changed???
You typically need to reset the TCU fault after a failed conductor plate. Only certain code readers will work on these transmissions.
My 4matic how can I change the auxiliary from the job is
SOS help ! , how did you remove dip stick tube ?
Super human strength @2:57
That cracks me up
Anyone know what could cause an “improper gear ratio” code after wheel spin?
Trans had conductor plate changed as well as fluid and filter. Had the improper gear ratio code before and after. Car has stock wheel and tire size and of course differential
Does anyone know if there is a tunning program for this transmission?
Thank you soo much sir , for the good vedio , very helpful ,
I have a 2004 sprinter with a 722.6 transmission. I have a shift flare from 2-3 and I have replaced
Shift solenoid
Conductor plate
Harness connector
Overlap valve sleeve kit
But I still have the flare from 2-3 any idea what I should look at next?
Did you ever get to the bottom of it? Sounds like your might be just valve body. I have slam under heavy accel at 1-2, then flare at every other shift, but once in gear no slip at all. I replaced conductor plate and then also tried entirely different (but used) valve body and solenoids but zero change in symptoms. I thought for sure it was valve body related, but after swapping these swaps that I did figure it is not in the valve body.
Which one is for 3rd gear and 4th both slipping
I appreciate your through explanation of the workings of this transmission.
I have a 722.622 that won’t shift passed third gear. It goes into limp home mode after failing to shift to fourth. I have codes 051 and 147 using Star Diagnostics.
Should I focus on the 3-4 valves? The 3-4 solenoid?
My Nag1 in my 2008 SRT DODGE CHARGER IS WHINING... I TOOK THE BELT OFF AND IT STILL WHINES BUT NOW IT GOES INTO LIMP MODE AND DOESN'T SHIFT PASS 3RD GEAR
Impressive !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Anyone has the part number for the solenoids o-ring?
Can you post a link to source the Alex Hinkees book for 722.6nag transmission? I tried looking for it and couldn't find it.
saluki-my.sharepoint.com/:w:/g/personal/jeepster_siu_edu/ETIpH4LF6xhHlffbbSdWtqwBFBHGC_IjYozLboDXVbB7ZQ?rtime=k_FO8rgh2kg
AM DOING WHEN COLD THE CAR DRIVES WHEN CAR REACHES OPERATING TEMPS IT LOOSES DRIVE BOTH REVERSE AND FORWARD
(722.6) How many litres total 7.5 or 8 ?
Torque converter capacity ?
Drain pan capacity ?
Have shifting issues after fluid change ( low or overfilled)
C200, w204, 2009 model
What is the normal Mercedes transmission operating temperature?
IIRC, 180°f is the temperature to check fluid level. Hopefully you have dipstick tool, mine is kept in Ziploc type bag in the spare tire compartment. Slightly not enough is far safer than too much - Too much fluid can be catastrophic!! Be patient while adding, checking and adding as necessary until results are spot on. It takes less time to add and check a dozen times versus having to drain some and starting over because one gets overzealous pouring ATF 4/134 into the thin, air choked tube
The answer to how much fluid is: hot fluid (180 degrees), car level, fluid at or just below (like a fingernail thickness) FULL Mark on dip tool (yes, it is a tool which means DO NOT leave it under the hood).
Shift issues could possibly be from long interval prior to your fluid change. If old fluid had way too many miles, then built up crud might build up in valve body as well as other areas. Whenever I buy a used Benz, I automatically pull valve body and disassemble for a good internal cleaning. Another couple of issues could include fluid passing through 13 pin connector and or conductor plate. You have not said if problem was immediately after or if it worked for awhile after you changed fluid. If you did remove valve body ... did you get the white plastic shifty thingy mahbop hooked in just right?
Why no drain plugs ? Would make changing fluid so much easier, instead of sucking out via dipstick to at least cycle out to fresh fluid like I do with every oil change, I like to a quarts to keep it nice and fresh.
There is a 5 mm internal hex drain plug in the pan.
I'm figuring, from your video's, the biggest suspect in my box is pressure valves or (less likely) my torque converter. Faults in my TCM are varying from 0733: Gear 3 implausible or slipping, 0734: Gear 4 implausible or slipping, 0730: Transmission has an impermissible transmission ratio, 0731: Gear 1 implausible or slipping and 2784: speed comparison of Y3/6n2 to Y3/6n3 implausible. Am I correct?
My box is slipping in al gears to the point where (when its warming up) it has no drive at all and starts to make funny noises from the front of the box.
Do you have some pinpointers on my diagnose or maybe even a troubleshooting diagram? I figure I might be in a little over my head. Thank you in advance!!
Hmmm, the noise is probably the pump whining. It sounds like you have low pressure. If you drop the pan, you might have a bunch of clutch material in there clogging your filter up. It sounds like it’s time for a rebuild.
Do a video on the Dodge 45rfe.
Great video. I believe the PWM on the solenoids is to regulate the current, like a constant current regulator. This way voltage spikes won't destroy the solenoids or shorten their lifespan. Pretty ingenious design.
If you happen to know what current they are supposed to run at then you can probably get a constant current/constant voltage (CC/CV) module or a PWM module and set the current on that to test the solenoids but that is probably overkill.
Is there is any difference between 722.6 transmission are they interchangeable. Please let me know if possible thanks
Yes, there are differences. I’m know expert on the variations. But generally speaking, there is the 330 smaller 722.6 and the 580 larger 722.6. Plus, there are different clutch counts internally depending on applications.
Thanks so much
Super interessante!
WOW good very good
I just got the 722.662 (W5A300) out of my 1998 ML320. Attempting to tackle this myself. Question: Upon returning from a long trip (pulling another car), the transmission seemed to start getting hot. It would downshift into 4th (or even 3rd) and stay there until I pulled over and let it rest a few minutes. When it would do this, it would ALSO start blowing fluid (seemingly) out around the pan (from the head, I assume). As long as I drove it under 55MPH, it was okay. Any faster, and it would start leaking fluid (especially around passenger side of the pan) and want to shift to 4th (and stay there). No codes! Even connected factory STAR-Diagnosis and nothing! No slippage, etc. Shifts smoothly, no shuttering, etc. New filter/fluid/pan gasket did not help. Once I tear into this, any tips as to WHERE I may want to pay special attention to?
well you may or may not be having this issue still but just my two cents/. sounds like fluid temp was getting too high, shifting into that lower gear it was trying to cool itself down. make sure fluid level is okay and id try putting a deeper pan on it to see if that helps, (considering you said shift quality was still good) I would assume the clutches aren't burnt yet. hopefully you figured it out!
Hi, i have exactly same issue, did you ever solved yours? Mine is running fine, until at some point it is going into similr like limp mode, cant shift any up/down and then starts pushing out oil from as far as it looks "breather plug" on top. By restarting engine, it clears off, car runs fine again. What coupd cause this?
@@8KRealisticSolutions As Brandon mentioned.. fluid temps and level are the reason here. YES, I resolved the issue - but here is what happened:
So I basically said the hell with it and found another (used) transmission from a low-mileage ML320 and did the swap myself. All seemed well the first few miles until the NEW transmission started doing almost the same! Long story short: my trans level checker I had purchased some 10 years ago was wrong! It was off by a few milimeters - causing my fluid level to be LOW.
When the 722.6 is low on fluid, it WILL overheat. One of the things that the 722.6 transmission control module is programmed to do when the trans temp exceeds a certain value is drop into a lower gear and lock-in. Excessive heat will cause issues with the gaskets and seals: allowing the fuid to essentially blow out around any gasket that can not take the heat. On the old trans, I noticed the leak to be from the same area - passenger side towards the front. If I had to guesse... the pan gasket and/or connector o-ring (right in that area) just cannot take excessive heat.
A new dipstick from eBay showed me I was low. After correcting the fluid level (on the new transmission), the overheating (locking into lower gears) was resolved. UNTIL....
I started towing. Then the problem came back. The solution? I installed an after-market trans cooler from Autozone ($75). Issue 100% resolved - even when pulling my 12 foot enclosed trailer through the mountains of central Mexico and Denver, CO.
These transmissions are sensitive to fluid temp and level. VERY SENSITIVE! Ensure you got a good dipstick fluid checker and ensure your fluid level is correct.
The the lesson here is simple: TWO transmissions (including a very low mile one) were doing the SAME EXACT THING all because I did not have the correct fluid level (off my just a tiny hair!!!). Check the fluid exactly as specified in the service manuals! Cold, then again at temp. And make DAMN SURE the level is as perfectly "in the center" of the dipstick "warm range" as you can get it. Be sure to drive it a good 20 minutes down the highway to ensure 100% the trans is GOOD AND WARM and CHECK AGAIN!!!
The service techs are not kidding when they say "the 722.6 is extremely sensitive to fluid level".
The plus side (for me) is this: I now have a newer transmission in my ML AND... the updated transfer-case w/ the 49/51 torque split (vs the 50/50) and turning corners is now smoother. I learned that - upon removing the OLD transmission - the rear output seal had been leaking - allowing slow loss of fluid over time. I made sure to install NEW seals and orings across-the-board on the new trans that I installed. Now it is bone dry under my car.
Finally... that pesky shifter lever oring is notorious for leaking - ensure that is not the source of your fluid loss (in the same area). The seal is only a few bucks. To install it, you do NOT need the special tool - I press them in w/ a small 1/4" socket and a long bolt/nut. Presses right in. The old one pry's out easily with a large flat head screwdriver.
Regarding YOUR case... blowing out the TOP BREATHER would lead me to believe that yours is overfilled (but I could be wrong). Again.. you need to CHECK THE FLUID with a GOOD dipstick checker - and do it according to the exact specs outlined in the service manual (FLAT ground... cold/25c AND again hot at 80c). Absolutely NO SHORTCUTS and NO SUBSTITUTIONS.
I did an entire trans swap - and STILL had the same issue because my fluid level was off by a smidgen.
Hope this helps.
-Dean
p.s. Did I forget to mention these transmissions are SENSITIVE to fluid level? lol...
@@deanrantala huge respect for your time to give me full detail on your case. I will use your advise to further troubleshoot my gearbox, if i have to say at this point i also suspect level issue as the dipstick i use is some kind of inbranded and i see the sound pipe is almost 90 degr. Juat before penetrating to gerbox, when i look at the line ņd dipstick i am kind a doubt if that stick can pass without resistance that corner, so i think my gearbox ia overfilled by service as 1 scenario, i will drain complete and refill with care. 2nd theory is that there is an air admition at some point, that oil is foaming up, and then expeled tgrough breather as there is a build up of air at internals, but i am atill observing. It happens intermitent driving normal and then boom gear is locked, no manual shift, and then some oil is pushed out, i think it must be air involved as hydraulic characteristics alone would not lead to leak from top breather, this musy be air or foams trapped and tending to expand and escape.
@@8KRealisticSolutions Take a close look at this video and the other one (also by siu automotive) that details the valve body rebuild. The oil cavity on these transmissons is shaped kind of like a pyramid. As the transmission warms up, the rate at which the fluid rises increases. If I understand the physics correctly, this is why it is so sensitive. Just above the valve body is a large check valve that is meant to keep fluid from freely flowing into the tunnel (once it has expanded to a level above the VB). This check valve is not the only place fluid has to reach the main tunnel.
Once fluid begins to substantially flood the main tunnel of this transmission - it WILL begin to whip and beat the hot fluid... causing it to foam. Once you get get this in the main tunnel to any considerable degree, you are almost certain to have fluid purging from tha breather vent.
Foamy fluid causes elevated temps and overheating: the fluid can no longer pump correctly, does not cool correctly, etc.
Bottom line: overfilled trans will cause foaming (air issues) and overheating.
Once the fluid is foaming and temps are over threshold.. your TCM locks the transmission into a lower gear in a last ditch attempt to cool it down.
How do I know if the conductor are is faulty? I've got one that won't go out of limp mode ? I hate to do a complete overhaul if the only problem might be the conductor plate . Will codes show anything??
Hi Albert, did you find out what the problem was/is please? The 722.6 box in my Vito goes into limp mode once the box warms up a bit. I'm trying to find out whether I need to change the conductor plate or a solenoid
Watch his video on aftermarket fixes for the valvebody. He presents 3 plus options (Sonnax has zip kits that are drop in without drilling, which MIGHT be a good option)
Conductor plates are suspect after 100k miles. Also, the connector collar (behind the 7mm nut) leaks and is only 15 dollars.
After pulling your solenoids to replace the CONDUCTOR PLATE, you can check the ohms on each. Use a 9 volt battery (or 12v) to check operation, too.
In short, take the valvebody body apart and clean it! It most likely needs a Transgo or Sonnax kit. Hopefully you can do this properly and eliminate need for transmission shop. If you can't clean it and the torque converter fails, it will send debris into everything and game over (ask me how I know)
It was the conductor plate on my box. The box was secondhand and under warranty but it would have taken a couple of weeks to get it fixed professionally and the Vito is my taxi so I was losing income. I decided to take a chance and ordered a new conductor plate, £130, on a Monday. It arrived on the Tuesday and I changed it myself on the Wednesday with the box in the vehicle. There are a few videos on this job on TH-cam, it's not difficult. Test drive on the Thursday, no more limp mode, magic! My thanks to John Swanger who was the first to suggest changing the conductor plate. One video said it's the speed sensors in the conductor plate that fail.
P0715 code , speed sensor malfunction.
Buen profesor , gracias por compartir su conocimiento que tanto le a costado obtener
I really like this video. It's fun to watch because you keep it exciting and interesting. How much do I owe you?
Very good
Super Video.
Excellent
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 has the same transmission
th-cam.com/video/GOBfWWy4T5w/w-d-xo.html
Do you sell transmissions?
awesome
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أرغب فى الحصول على أداة العمل الخاص بالجير المرسيدس G5 /
G7 / G9
ولك تحياتي
Thank you for the excellent video. I have a NAG1 in my 09 Charger Pursuit w/149k miles. I recently began feeling a shimmy, which has become a vibration/shaking which appears when I'm lightly accelerating around 35mph and above. I think it's transmission related, but I'm not positive. I've changed fluid and filter(no apparent improvement), and inspected the rag couplers on the front & rear of the propeller shaft(they look fine), but I can't really see the center driveshaft bearing because the oem dual exhaust is in the way. Do any of these symptoms sound familiar to you? What would you suggest I do next?
Torque converter?
@ryanledger9888 yeah, I've considered that possibility. I was holding off, due to the expense and difficulty of changing that piece, doing that. I pulled the driveshaft and replaced the carrier bearing, though the old one didn't look bad. I did find a tennis ball that was caught in the tunnel and against the driveshaft, which was pretty unexpected. I don't know if that has helped, yet, but I'm pretty skeptical.