I hope the New bearings fit. I just finished a restore on a 1940ish Canedy-Otto drill press. The old bearings were by Fafnir. Timken bought them at some point. Timken sent me the bearings I needed. They didn’t fit, the I.D. was too small. After research from Timken, those bearings were proprietary and had not been made since 1956. I ended up grinding out the I.D. To the size I needed. I hope you have better luck, thanks again for sharing!
Wow that's rotten luck having to turn the ID. Mine were bang on thankfully. The finish improved significantly but it still isn't as nice as I'd like it to be. I think you'll get a chuckle from the part 2 episode :) Gilles
I made the same wheel balancing ring for my machine (seen in the background at 14:14). The idea came from Practical Machinist post, where the guy used an accelerometer to measure the balance error, and adding weights at quadrature angles would pop out a solution from a spread sheet calculator. The problem I had was the motor running near 3600RPM which combined with the 60Hz noise in my Oscilloscope measurement, so I could never get a good scalar value of the RMS measurement from the accelerometer. What I didn't have was the sound analyzer General Radio machine he was using to filter the signal. I also have a static wheel balancer that uses 4 large wheels, I got it used but it had too much sticktion in the bearings. And I need to make another arbor to put the wheel with the hub on it. I think the best method may be the static parallel rails with a clean concentric arbor. Dang, another tool to make.
And as I was saying in my other comment, shouldn't there be a thin spacer ring to separate the two inner races just enough so that when the large threaded preload nut is tightened the two bearings inner races are pushed apart making the balls operate with an angular contact. Or am I not understanding how that works. I've seen this in some other spindles, like milling machines where there the outer races have a spacing ring between them.
@@f.hababorbitz now I see what you mean. Actually according to instructions from NPK the bearings are made to be side by side. The preload occurs in one direction. The threaded plug pushes and that small extension provides the back pressure. The correct preload is a calculation I don’t recall but I was able to measure all that stuff and integrate it in my design.
@@LetsRogerThat That makes sense, pushing the bearings to work in parallel for the preload. It was ROBRENZ's channel where I saw that spacer ring during his milling machine spindle rebuild. His work is crazy precise, extreme experience. But he makes stuff for a living, and for us this is a hobby. It's too bad all this great knowledge in all areas on youtube did not exist when I was a kid. I just had my tenth year of retirement. So more time to work on all the unfinished projects. I'm watching the rest of your videos fixing this surface grinder spindle. I'm very surprised at how horrible the hacking was by the previous owner. I've tried fixes of knurling undersize shafts before too, but never precision spindle. Looks like a very nice machine. At least it was not a preassembled kit as most of my machine tools are.
Surface grinder bearings usually cost a fortune. I hope you had good luck finding them at reasonable cost. Are the new bearings sealed or do they require grease? Gluber I believe makes some spindle bearing grease that is highly rated.
The NSK bearings I purchased are pre-greased, sealed and rated for 8500 rpm max and cost $50 each. They Ultra High Precision bearings from NSK were $500 US each. Given that I use my grinder as a hobby, I chose to go with the $50 bearings. Good enough for this kid ;)
I have one of these grinders. You’re never going to get a finish like you’d get off of a higher quality grinder with a cable and roller v ways. The rack and pinion method used to move the table in this grinder will always show up in the finish. The flat ways will always make it less accurate and IMHO useless for side/cup grinding as well. EDIT: OOOOOF, i just got to the part where you beat out that spindle. Brah…
Thanks David I’m quite happy with the way the spindle turned out. It was nerve wracking. But You’re quite right the other type of grinder is know for being better. But for my hobby shop and budget, it’s not too bad. Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat Yeah, they def do the job. I would like to replace mine as some point if i come across a good deal, but it works. I’m working my way through your vids on this as we speak, just saw on your page that you ended up making a whole new spindle? I am very curious to know your thoughts on whether or not it was worth it? I’ll def watch those vids.
@@DavidHerscher it was well worth the effort and the extra grey hair. Thanks for subscribing and watching. Much appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you again. Cheers Gilles
I hope the New bearings fit. I just finished a restore on a 1940ish Canedy-Otto drill press. The old bearings were by Fafnir. Timken bought them at some point. Timken sent me the bearings I needed. They didn’t fit, the I.D. was too small. After research from Timken, those bearings were proprietary and had not been made since 1956. I ended up grinding out the I.D. To the size I needed. I hope you have better luck, thanks again for sharing!
Wow that's rotten luck having to turn the ID. Mine were bang on thankfully. The finish improved significantly but it still isn't as nice as I'd like it to be. I think you'll get a chuckle from the part 2 episode :) Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat looking forward to seeing it….
I made the same wheel balancing ring for my machine (seen in the background at 14:14). The idea came from Practical Machinist post, where the guy used an accelerometer to measure the balance error, and adding weights at quadrature angles would pop out a solution from a spread sheet calculator. The problem I had was the motor running near 3600RPM which combined with the 60Hz noise in my Oscilloscope measurement, so I could never get a good scalar value of the RMS measurement from the accelerometer. What I didn't have was the sound analyzer General Radio machine he was using to filter the signal. I also have a static wheel balancer that uses 4 large wheels, I got it used but it had too much sticktion in the bearings. And I need to make another arbor to put the wheel with the hub on it. I think the best method may be the static parallel rails with a clean concentric arbor. Dang, another tool to make.
And as I was saying in my other comment, shouldn't there be a thin spacer ring to separate the two inner races just enough so that when the large threaded preload nut is tightened the two bearings inner races are pushed apart making the balls operate with an angular contact. Or am I not understanding how that works. I've seen this in some other spindles, like milling machines where there the outer races have a spacing ring between them.
@@f.hababorbitz now I see what you mean. Actually according to instructions from NPK the bearings are made to be side by side. The preload occurs in one direction. The threaded plug pushes and that small extension provides the back pressure. The correct preload is a calculation I don’t recall but I was able to measure all that stuff and integrate it in my design.
@@LetsRogerThat That makes sense, pushing the bearings to work in parallel for the preload. It was ROBRENZ's channel where I saw that spacer ring during his milling machine spindle rebuild. His work is crazy precise, extreme experience. But he makes stuff for a living, and for us this is a hobby. It's too bad all this great knowledge in all areas on youtube did not exist when I was a kid. I just had my tenth year of retirement. So more time to work on all the unfinished projects. I'm watching the rest of your videos fixing this surface grinder spindle. I'm very surprised at how horrible the hacking was by the previous owner. I've tried fixes of knurling undersize shafts before too, but never precision spindle. Looks like a very nice machine. At least it was not a preassembled kit as most of my machine tools are.
Surface grinder bearings usually cost a fortune. I hope you had good luck finding them at reasonable cost. Are the new bearings sealed or do they require grease? Gluber I believe makes some spindle bearing grease that is highly rated.
The NSK bearings I purchased are pre-greased, sealed and rated for 8500 rpm max and cost $50 each. They Ultra High Precision bearings from NSK were $500 US each. Given that I use my grinder as a hobby, I chose to go with the $50 bearings. Good enough for this kid ;)
I have one of these grinders. You’re never going to get a finish like you’d get off of a higher quality grinder with a cable and roller v ways. The rack and pinion method used to move the table in this grinder will always show up in the finish. The flat ways will always make it less accurate and IMHO useless for side/cup grinding as well. EDIT: OOOOOF, i just got to the part where you beat out that spindle. Brah…
Thanks David I’m quite happy with the way the spindle turned out. It was nerve wracking. But You’re quite right the other type of grinder is know for being better. But for my hobby shop and budget, it’s not too bad. Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat Yeah, they def do the job. I would like to replace mine as some point if i come across a good deal, but it works. I’m working my way through your vids on this as we speak, just saw on your page that you ended up making a whole new spindle? I am very curious to know your thoughts on whether or not it was worth it? I’ll def watch those vids.
@@DavidHerscher it was well worth the effort and the extra grey hair. Thanks for subscribing and watching. Much appreciated. I look forward to hearing from you again. Cheers Gilles
@@LetsRogerThat haha, copy that, glad to hear it ;)