What about the part of the chain that rides against the bar that the geometry of the chain has been destroyed from running dull . Running sharp ! Actually Influences your chain into cutting properly! Never run dull! Bark is dirt never suck it into your cut! Keeping your saw sharp learn not to dull! You should be able to roll the wood in dirt mud and rock and cut it up without dulling! Here’s a clue chain speed. If your chain is not moving and you touch the ground does it Dull? Learn to jog your chain stop go stop go 3”at a time. Then you’re only cutting clean. Great video lots of knowledge hopefully this will send you or increase your knowledge with a little practice you won’t have to run them junk chains. Work hard and metal it’s good when it’s on your side don’t get rid of it!
Setting and sharpening each tooth individually is important Those are nice gauges even though I use the flat one piece of spring steel not for the beginner!It’s a gauge I don’t leave it on when I file look at your tooth it will tell you how to file your rake. Keep it simple make sure the side of your chain is sharpened from the top to the bottom at 90° to the bar even if you have to roll your file and the tip the corner between the side and the top is the most importantAnd close your eyes and use the rake guide And no more it will just destroy your chain by making a bitch up and wearing the part rides against the bar like this man states
Thank you for this good explanation! I recently purchase 2 progressive dept gauge from stihl (FL) for my 3/8 and 3/8p chains! After filing the rakers on a relatively new picco chain, it turned out that the gauge set my rakers way too low! Even in hard wood setting! Have you try the FL gauge and then cutting wood? I needed to file the tooth a lot and set the rakers again! It seems that the chain is smoother now but still to the aggressive side! The test chain was Picco micro 3/8 50 gauge with single raker, not safety chain! The raker filing from the left hand cutters was easy but from the right hand side was a little bit tricky to find the correct spot to set the gauge!
Remember stihl make FL 1to.FL5 5 gauges make sure you have right one. FL4 IS FOR 3/8 Standard FL2 is for 3/8 LP. My gauges work well no probles at all depth is good
@Maciej Jan Długosz thank you for your reply! Yes Ofcourse I file the raker from top surface of the gauge, and my chain is tight and steady! I have completely understood the concept of this tool! After some more testing everything is fine now with some chains that is worn half way or more! Chain cuts superior even in soft setting !I propably did some mistake at my first use of the tool 🤷♂️ I find out that is very easy to make mistake and file some rakers in soft wood and some in hardwood at the same chain! What I did is I bought more FL gauges and I make them single option only hard or only soft, by snapping the one side off so avoiding future mistakes! 💡😅
I'm confused about the rocking as you get to the end of the cutter. You say need ~1mm at the end vs .65mm early in its life. isn't that setting it to take a deeper chip & rock even more?
As the distance between the raker and the tooth increases the sensitivity of the rocking motion increases the extra depth just allows the tooth to bite in at same depth it just needs that extra room depth to perform same bite as .65mm when new. Like your mouth is open wider but the food only goes on hald way so you don't get a full bite.
This may add to your knowledge the tooth not only pulls up it pulls out to at the same time. Most people just work on the top turn your chain on the side and look at the side of your chain you’ve been practicing the top side for how long ?
Thank you for this very informative video - I was about to order one of those "useless" depth gauges and instead went and found a progressive version.
Good you will notice your chain will cut better especially when half worn down. What type of progressive gauge did you get ?
What about the part of the chain that rides against the bar that the geometry of the chain has been destroyed from running dull .
Running sharp !
Actually Influences your chain into cutting properly!
Never run dull!
Bark is dirt never suck it into your cut!
Keeping your saw sharp learn not to dull!
You should be able to roll the wood in dirt mud and rock and cut it up without dulling!
Here’s a clue chain speed.
If your chain is not moving and you touch the ground does it Dull?
Learn to jog your chain stop go stop go 3”at a time.
Then you’re only cutting clean.
Great video lots of knowledge hopefully this will send you or increase your knowledge with a little practice you won’t have to run them junk chains.
Work hard and metal it’s good when it’s on your side don’t get rid of it!
Setting and sharpening each tooth individually is important Those are nice gauges even though I use the flat one piece of spring steel not for the beginner!It’s a gauge I don’t leave it on when I file look at your tooth it will tell you how to file your rake.
Keep it simple make sure the side of your chain is sharpened from the top to the bottom at 90° to the bar even if you have to roll your file and the tip the corner between the side and the top is the most importantAnd close your eyes and use the rake guide And no more it will just destroy your chain by making a bitch up and wearing the part rides against the bar like this man states
Thank you for this good explanation! I recently purchase 2 progressive dept gauge from stihl (FL) for my 3/8 and 3/8p chains! After filing the rakers on a relatively new picco chain, it turned out that the gauge set my rakers way too low! Even in hard wood setting! Have you try the FL gauge and then cutting wood? I needed to file the tooth a lot and set the rakers again! It seems that the chain is smoother now but still to the aggressive side! The test chain was Picco micro 3/8 50 gauge with single raker, not safety chain! The raker filing from the left hand cutters was easy but from the right hand side was a little bit tricky to find the correct spot to set the gauge!
Remember stihl make FL 1to.FL5 5 gauges make sure you have right one. FL4 IS FOR 3/8 Standard FL2 is for 3/8 LP. My gauges work well no probles at all depth is good
@@ChainsawUsers Ofcourse I have the correct ones! No doubt about it! Thanks 🙏
@Kostas Frangos you can always check with a feeler gauge. New chain clearance will be .65mm half work .95mm almost worn out 1.4mm clearance
@Maciej Jan Długosz thank you for your reply! Yes Ofcourse I file the raker from top surface of the gauge, and my chain is tight and steady! I have completely understood the concept of this tool! After some more testing everything is fine now with some chains that is worn half way or more! Chain cuts superior even in soft setting !I propably did some mistake at my first use of the tool 🤷♂️ I find out that is very easy to make mistake and file some rakers in soft wood and some in hardwood at the same chain! What I did is I bought more FL gauges and I make them single option only hard or only soft, by snapping the one side off so avoiding future mistakes! 💡😅
That was a very nice video
Thanks Mark
Thanks Mark
I'm confused about the rocking as you get to the end of the cutter. You say need ~1mm at the end vs .65mm early in its life. isn't that setting it to take a deeper chip & rock even more?
As the distance between the raker and the tooth increases the sensitivity of the rocking motion increases the extra depth just allows the tooth to bite in at same depth it just needs that extra room depth to perform same bite as .65mm when new. Like your mouth is open wider but the food only goes on hald way so you don't get a full bite.
I made a new video to explain attack angle v raker height
@@ChainsawUsers thanks for the heads up! I'll check it out.
This may add to your knowledge the tooth not only pulls up it pulls out to at the same time.
Most people just work on the top turn your chain on the side and look at the side of your chain you’ve been practicing the top side for how long ?
What are we talking about the tooth pulls up ?? The rocking motion of the tooth as it cuts ???
I requested FB group member. Pls approve. Thanks