I've had the Oregon gauge for about 10 years. I have cut around 40 cords of firewood in that time. Whole cords, not face cords. The gauge tool is scratched up, but still works perfectly. That's just my experience. Others may have different results.
Oregon gauge is soft metal avoid this gauge. Get a progressive gauge Stihl makes FL1 to FL5 all hardened to rockwell 62 also husky makes them. Avoid the Stihl flat gauge its a consistant gauge not a slanted progressive gauge.
Love your reviews. From what I hear, I need a Stihl FL-3 gauge. Reason being, I have both anti kickback and normal chains, and you pointed out that I need the Stihl for the anti kickback. But apparently the FL series gauges are not available in the US - an odd stroke of marketing. I am trying to find a company that will ship one to me here.
All the husky roller guides I have used has had the depth gauge part filed off. They don’t last long. The last Stihl 404 guide I got is very soft and is worn out already. The older Stihl one from a kit i got 15 years ago is still in great shape.
@@ChainsawUsersThe depth gauge guide. I don’t know why but I have had 3 of the Stihl 404 guides and have filed through them all. The 3/8 depth gauge guide has been fine. I could just be unlucky but I think something is wrong with the 404 guides
@@SawChainTheories that's crazy so you saying it's not hardened like the 3/8. All my FL1 to FL5 all say 62 HRC bottom left side of package. Take it back and complain
What about the chain sharpening kit from Makita such as d-72154? Have you tried those yet? I wonder if Makita makes those themselves or they source them from Oregon like they do with some of their chains.
I have the oregon one, had it for about 20 years and its very hard, looks like the new ones are lesser quality, also have the husky roller one and the depth gauge on that is soft as shit, I have a set of the stihl ones on order.
The original Oregon gauges were hardened, somehow Oregon let that slide. I believe carlton and West coast saw gauges are hardened. It is so much faster if you can leave the gauge on and File over the top of it. Stihl only released those gauges in 2018 after arborest groups in the US complaid toi Stihl why they never made then. Ray Calrton Invented the Filo O Plate in 1968 its still available today in the US
The older Oregon gauges were hardened. Since Blount brought oregon they get many things made in China and the gauge is absolute rubbish soft mild steel. They are just using the Oregon name and making millions from it. In time people will see the quality is not like it used to be and walk away from the poorly made Oregon products
@@ChainsawUsers When did Oregon get bought? I used Oregon at the start of my career, often with Sachs Dolmar saws and for the last 20 years have mostly used Stihl, only a recent job change means I've started to pick up a few new bits from multiple manufacturers and Oregon were one I had been expecting to still be good but that disappointed me.
Joseph Cox fron Oregon invented the raker gauge and now blount who own Oregon make a gauge front soft metal and its flimsy. The original Oregon gauge was case hardened. When blount also brought out Carlton they discontinued making the progressive raker gauge called file o plate.
I have never had that problem. Chainsaw teeth are hardened around mid 50s rockwell and a file is around 62 rockwell hardness so a new file will work well
Good video but I wouldn't mislead people by ever referring to the Rakers as depth gauges. A gauge is a tool. A depth gauge is a tool. You wouldn't call the tip of a spark plug a depth guage or gap gauge because it is not a gauge. The primary purpose of the chain Rakers are to take out the saw dust chips. The secondary purpose is to keep the cutter teeth at the best depth in the wood fiber. A gauge is a tool used to measure and adjust the height of the Rakers. And those tools you have are called Depth Guages. Just like a Gap Gauge is a tool used to measure the gap between two parts.
If you google chainsaw tooth they will identify the raker as a depth gauge because it technically is. And the gauge use to check it is also called a depth gauge technically. But I see your point. I think I will just refer to the tooth as a raker and the metal gauge a raker gauge. I can see the confusion to a beginner. I should of said depth gauge tool. I will use that new phrase from now on. www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Feducatedclimber.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F03%2FTooth-Detail-Labeled.jpg&tbnid=ZuyoQjQp6PITdM&vet=1&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.educatedclimber.com%2Fhow-saw-chain-works%2F&docid=m1EytLgbaah5VM&w=611&h=457&hl=en-AU&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim%2F4
@@ChainsawUsers where do u get a progressive depth. ALSO, those orange stihl sharpening kits you have. wtf are those belt snaps for? it would be useful to be able to snap it onto your belt and unsnap it and unroll it an d use it and then snap it back on when ur done.... but the snap is upside down and all your shit will fall out.. what the fuck is the point of that thing?
@@ChainsawUsers sorry just seeing all the products in the original packaging led to think you may be a vendor. if you were, id buy those stihl plates i havent been able to find them before
It is crazy that I keep hearing you say that you're going to use a depth gauge to file a depth gauge I don't see how that would be possible the only thing I seen your video is that you are using the depth gauges to file the rakers on the chains
I've had the Oregon gauge for about 10 years. I have cut around 40 cords of firewood in that time. Whole cords, not face cords. The gauge tool is scratched up, but still works perfectly. That's just my experience. Others may have different results.
Hey bro, I can tell you really know what you’re doing! Thanks for taking the time to make this video! 🇺🇸
Thanks but we also have a few experts here that help out with many good comments
Nice vid mate, its been very helpful on using my sthill ft plates, good one..
Yeah fantastic video,, thanks again Spanner man 👏👏💪👍
Thank you for the reviews. I was tempted to get a couple oregon gauges.
Oregon gauge is soft metal avoid this gauge. Get a progressive gauge Stihl makes FL1 to FL5 all hardened to rockwell 62 also husky makes them. Avoid the Stihl flat gauge its a consistant gauge not a slanted progressive gauge.
Just picked up a n.o.s mcculloch tool kit with raker gauge and files hopefully the old mcculloch steel was decent
Love your reviews. From what I hear, I need a Stihl FL-3 gauge. Reason being, I have both anti kickback and normal chains, and you pointed out that I need the Stihl for the anti kickback. But apparently the FL series gauges are not available in the US - an odd stroke of marketing. I am trying to find a company that will ship one to me here.
You can also get from West Coast Saws they make thier own gauges also
Tyvm great video
Great video!!
Can you tell me the proper stihl kit # for my new Stihl MS362C ?
(3’8” oilomatic chain)
Thanks again … thumbs up
If you are looking for a 3/8 progressive Stihl gauge its FL4
All the husky roller guides I have used has had the depth gauge part filed off. They don’t last long. The last Stihl 404 guide I got is very soft and is worn out already. The older Stihl one from a kit i got 15 years ago is still in great shape.
When you say Stihl 404 guide do you mean file guide as these are just soft metal only the depth gauge rockwell hardened to 62 HRC
@@ChainsawUsersThe depth gauge guide. I don’t know why but I have had 3 of the Stihl 404 guides and have filed through them all. The 3/8 depth gauge guide has been fine. I could just be unlucky but I think something is wrong with the 404 guides
@@SawChainTheories that's crazy so you saying it's not hardened like the 3/8. All my FL1 to FL5 all say 62 HRC bottom left side of package. Take it back and complain
What about the chain sharpening kit from Makita such as d-72154? Have you tried those yet? I wonder if Makita makes those themselves or they source them from Oregon like they do with some of their chains.
They are just a file kit nothing special about them. The raker gauge looks like a stihl copy. Get Stihl can't go wrong.
Good video
I check the height of the depth gauge with the tool then remove it to file then check with the tool.
Do the Stihl FL1-5 gauges only work on Stihl chains? Can I also use these for Oregon chains?
You can use them on any chain not a problem
Which one of the Stihl progressive gauges FL 1- FL 5 should I get for a Makita 80TXL chain, pitch: .325" Low Profile, Gauge: .043"(1.1mm) ?
You need FL3 for .325
I have the oregon one, had it for about 20 years and its very hard, looks like the new ones are lesser quality, also have the husky roller one and the depth gauge on that is soft as shit, I have a set of the stihl ones on order.
The original Oregon gauges were hardened, somehow Oregon let that slide. I believe carlton and West coast saw gauges are hardened. It is so much faster if you can leave the gauge on and File over the top of it. Stihl only released those gauges in 2018 after arborest groups in the US complaid toi Stihl why they never made then. Ray Calrton Invented the Filo O Plate in 1968 its still available today in the US
Using the cheapo soft gauges you need a marker or paint stick to leave a tell tale line to file too. Meaning they are marking tools not stop guides.
I only use Stihl gauges because they are hardened to 62 rockwell
I have the Oregon depth gauge and I noticed the same thing, filed loads off it very quickly, total waste of money.
The older Oregon gauges were hardened. Since Blount brought oregon they get many things made in China and the gauge is absolute rubbish soft mild steel. They are just using the Oregon name and making millions from it. In time people will see the quality is not like it used to be and walk away from the poorly made Oregon products
Get the Stihl gauge its hardened to 62 rockwell
@@ChainsawUsers When did Oregon get bought? I used Oregon at the start of my career, often with Sachs Dolmar saws and for the last 20 years have mostly used Stihl, only a recent job change means I've started to pick up a few new bits from multiple manufacturers and Oregon were one I had been expecting to still be good but that disappointed me.
@@ChainsawUsersmy Oregon I just bought is made in USA. Mine shows the scratches just like your Stihl but no wear yet.
@scottseavert6143 the st8hl gauges are hardened to rockwell 62
Tell us about that chain holding jig. Nice
Got it from johno and johno Ballarat Victoria. It gives me the option to sharpen my chains of the chainsaw.
And I made the hight adjustable
In canada that gage and file kit from Oregon is $9.00 file till its a 35 thousand gage and toss it
I found that gauge to soft a metal and I only use the Stihl progressive gauges now.
I buy the Oregon kit for the file and throw the gauge away. It's a good file.
Joseph Cox fron Oregon invented the raker gauge and now blount who own Oregon make a gauge front soft metal and its flimsy. The original Oregon gauge was case hardened.
When blount also brought out Carlton they discontinued making the progressive raker gauge called file o plate.
The saw teeth I find is harder than most files, the files just skid over the teeth
I have never had that problem. Chainsaw teeth are hardened around mid 50s rockwell and a file is around 62 rockwell hardness so a new file will work well
Good video but I wouldn't mislead people by ever referring to the Rakers as depth gauges. A gauge is a tool. A depth gauge is a tool. You wouldn't call the tip of a spark plug a depth guage or gap gauge because it is not a gauge.
The primary purpose of the chain Rakers are to take out the saw dust chips. The secondary purpose is to keep the cutter teeth at the best depth in the wood fiber. A gauge is a tool used to measure and adjust the height of the Rakers.
And those tools you have are called Depth Guages. Just like a Gap Gauge is a tool used to measure the gap between two parts.
If you google chainsaw tooth they will identify the raker as a depth gauge because it technically is.
And the gauge use to check it is also called a depth gauge technically. But I see your point.
I think I will just refer to the tooth as a raker and the metal gauge a raker gauge. I can see the confusion to a beginner. I should of said depth gauge tool. I will use that new phrase from now on.
www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Feducatedclimber.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F03%2FTooth-Detail-Labeled.jpg&tbnid=ZuyoQjQp6PITdM&vet=1&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.educatedclimber.com%2Fhow-saw-chain-works%2F&docid=m1EytLgbaah5VM&w=611&h=457&hl=en-AU&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim%2F4
The world is getting very greedy, money money money. A shame.
U hit the nail on the head
India ke Kali chalisa sir
Does anyone offer different depths (ie .028 or.030 inches) in their gauges? Thanks . Fernandina beach, Florida.
No .65 mm is standard for many chains only a progressive depth will allow you to remove more that .65mm
@@ChainsawUsers where do u get a progressive depth. ALSO, those orange stihl sharpening kits you have. wtf are those belt snaps for? it would be useful to be able to snap it onto your belt and unsnap it and unroll it an d use it and then snap it back on when ur done.... but the snap is upside down and all your shit will fall out.. what the fuck is the point of that thing?
@@schlomoshekelstein908 Stihl dealer will order it for you. In America you can get from West coat saws also. Husqvarna sell them also
Westcoast depth gauge has 4 different levels.
@driftlesshunter9200 what is your concern
do you have an online store mate?
No
@@ChainsawUsers sorry just seeing all the products in the original packaging led to think you may be a vendor. if you were, id buy those stihl plates i havent been able to find them before
@davel9909 West coast saws in America sell them
It is crazy that I keep hearing you say that you're going to use a depth gauge to file a depth gauge I don't see how that would be possible the only thing I seen your video is that you are using the depth gauges to file the rakers on the chains