Very informative. Really enjoy your vids. I would like to see your filing device with the angles etched on it. Am interested in building me one. Cheers!
great video, I found out the hard way the Oregon version isnt hardened, it makes no sense why they dont harden theirs. What is your opinion of how good the combination files Stihl sells, the one that does the rakers at the same time as the tooth? I have gotten mixed results, I consider myself a better than average filer (I have a fitter qualification) but still (pardon the pun) my results are mixed
The original Oregon depth gauge was hardened. Now Oregon is owned by Blount they make a poor gauge indeed. The Stihl 2 in 1 is ok I do have one also. The best raker gauge is the Stihl progressive depth gauge. They make 5 versions for the different chains. If you are in America they are not stocked there. But west coast saws make them. And Husqvarna also make them.
@@ChainsawUsers I'm an Aussie so I should be able to get the progressive gauge, we actually have 2 Stihl dealers in my town, we also have a Husqvarna dealer that sometimes has Oregon stuff in stock, thats who I got the non hardened gauge from
@davidewhite69 ok you need to order in Fl1 is 1/4, FL2 is 3/8lp, FL3 is .325 FL4 is standard 3/8 and FL5 is 404 You will find they work better they cost about $12 they are hardened so you can run the file over the top of them.
This is really difficult to explain and 100x easier to show but my camera wont focus in close enough to show it so I'll try my best here. You can use the side plate holes for checking round chain. It is a little easier to see on full chisel but works with semi as well. Notice how the cut out on the side extends over the top slightly? You can use that small upper part of the cut out to get lined up with the tip of the corner and then check the side. We only need to focus on the upper part of the side plate, approximately the top 1.5mm. What happens below that appears to be irrelevant as long as it doesn't protrude out past the corner. It's much easier to see this out in the sunlight, if I'm doing it in the shed I use a head torch. You will notice it's easier to do with the 60 and 80 degree cutouts because the edge of the corner will touch the front of the cutout. The 70 and 90 degree lines are tricker to line up at first. It's a handy tool to have around to check your work but it would be nice if Stihl included a user manual for it because it took me years to figure this out and I would not be surprised if there is something else it can do that I don't know about yet. If it's used for depth gauges with uneven cutter lengths, try only applying pressure with your index finger directly above the "0.65" mark. It does a surprisingly good job of compensating if you go back and check with a feeler gauge.
Thanks thats great info. There is also 2 tiny circular holes on the top of the guage and underneath in the middle on the sides a small recess notch on either side. Any idea what this is for?
thanks although this is not what I am referring to, if you look on the side there is a tiny notch which if you go to the start of your video and look at the angle jig you have made it happens to be pointing right at what I am referring to. Do you know what I mean? It's a tiny notch on both sides
Good info. Thanks for posting
Great video! Thanks to you, I now know! 😂👍
Very informative. Really enjoy your vids. I would like to see your filing device with the angles etched on it. Am interested in building me one. Cheers!
I purchased at Johno and Johno Ballarat Victoria Australia and made some mods
I will make a video on it ok
great video, I found out the hard way the Oregon version isnt hardened, it makes no sense why they dont harden theirs. What is your opinion of how good the combination files Stihl sells, the one that does the rakers at the same time as the tooth? I have gotten mixed results, I consider myself a better than average filer (I have a fitter qualification) but still (pardon the pun) my results are mixed
The original Oregon depth gauge was hardened. Now Oregon is owned by Blount they make a poor gauge indeed.
The Stihl 2 in 1 is ok I do have one also.
The best raker gauge is the Stihl progressive depth gauge. They make 5 versions for the different chains.
If you are in America they are not stocked there. But west coast saws make them. And Husqvarna also make them.
@@ChainsawUsers I'm an Aussie so I should be able to get the progressive gauge, we actually have 2 Stihl dealers in my town, we also have a Husqvarna dealer that sometimes has Oregon stuff in stock, thats who I got the non hardened gauge from
@davidewhite69 ok you need to order in Fl1 is 1/4, FL2 is 3/8lp, FL3 is .325 FL4 is standard 3/8 and FL5 is 404
You will find they work better they cost about $12 they are hardened so you can run the file over the top of them.
2024 March and Stihl USA still does not order or stock ANY progressive depth gauges.
I almost dropped the $180 for the minimum order requirement from I’m to buy 15 just because but I don’t know what I’d do with the other 14
@Xrobberyx sell on eBay make a profit
Bunch of em sitting at every saw and landscape shope around me
@@jakewhittier9273we’re talking the one he shows at the 11:00 min mark?
That's a progressive raker gauge 3/8 standard FL4. You can't get in America but can get one's from West Coast Saws in America
This is really difficult to explain and 100x easier to show but my camera wont focus in close enough to show it so I'll try my best here.
You can use the side plate holes for checking round chain. It is a little easier to see on full chisel but works with semi as well. Notice how the cut out on the side extends over the top slightly? You can use that small upper part of the cut out to get lined up with the tip of the corner and then check the side. We only need to focus on the upper part of the side plate, approximately the top 1.5mm. What happens below that appears to be irrelevant as long as it doesn't protrude out past the corner.
It's much easier to see this out in the sunlight, if I'm doing it in the shed I use a head torch. You will notice it's easier to do with the 60 and 80 degree cutouts because the edge of the corner will touch the front of the cutout. The 70 and 90 degree lines are tricker to line up at first.
It's a handy tool to have around to check your work but it would be nice if Stihl included a user manual for it because it took me years to figure this out and I would not be surprised if there is something else it can do that I don't know about yet.
If it's used for depth gauges with uneven cutter lengths, try only applying pressure with your index finger directly above the "0.65" mark. It does a surprisingly good job of compensating if you go back and check with a feeler gauge.
Thanks for your long comment much appreciated. You raised some Interesting things.
Thanks thats great info. There is also 2 tiny circular holes on the top of the guage and underneath in the middle on the sides a small recess notch on either side. Any idea what this is for?
@5StringaSlinga hole on top is hang it on a nail. Side holes are for the chainsaw side plate angles
thanks although this is not what I am referring to, if you look on the side there is a tiny notch which if you go to the start of your video and look at the angle jig you have made it happens to be pointing right at what I am referring to. Do you know what I mean? It's a tiny notch on both sides
@5StringaSlinga ok what is the time on video at the point you are referring to
You mean “what they are for”…..
New users to chainsaws don't know much at the beginning. Videos like this helps then.
The best gauge available