Thanks for watching. Learn the entire process of how to paint a room step by step 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/bLbUIevOxzY/w-d-xo.html Find my favourite paint supplies 👉🏼 🇺🇸 amzn.to/3wUuiu4 🇨🇦amzn.to/3A11Qax Cheers!
it is an honor to tell you that you are my 1st choice when it comes to see a video for my projects, thanks for sharing your acknowledge and experience.
I've had so many bad experiences relying on painters tape over the years, but once I watched your videos on how to paint edges and corners, I've never looked back. I did the bathroom with a new ceiling color and accent wall and it looks phenomenal, if I do say so myself. Cheers!
The only way you can avoid having to touchup or patch after putting paint on the wall is the tint your primer. White primer not much is going to show up but if you tint it that's when it shows up with the color change. Even if you just take a little bit of your finish paint and add a cup into the primer it makes the world of difference
Great tips as always! People used to ask me why I "charged so much" to paint a room. Once I explained my process, they understood. I'll also say don't cheap out on paint. Get the good stuff - it's totally worth the extra $10 or $20 per gallon.
What would you consider "cheap"? Is the most expensive paint at HD or Lowes sufficient, or do I need to shop at a paint specialty store for quality paint?
@Joe Momma depends on what you're painting. Just my opinion here but formed after painting a lot of rooms and using a lot of different paints. HD uses Behr and their top line Marquee is nice. I prefer Lowe's though since they use Sherwin Williams and their Infinity level is excellent. Totally fine to go to HD or Lowe's for paint. That said, if it's a room you're putting a ton of effort into that you really want to showcase, you will get measurably better quality going to a dedicated paint store and I am a huge fan of Benjamin Moore paint.
I hate Box Store paint. All paint companies have multiple lines of quality. The box store sells the worst for the highest price they can squeeze out of you.
A whole lot of so called professional painters need to see this video and actually follow the advice. It is so hard to find a good paint company these days. They just won't do the prep work! Much Thanks!
They do it, but cut corners where they can get away with it. They don't sand between each coat; they sometimes don't prime doors or frames, sometimes they only do one coat, depending on lighting. But usually it's not the painter but their boss that just wants the job done as fast as possible.
That yellow stand that's on your paint tray is genius! I've always laid the handle on the floor but then it's a tripping hazard with the potential for a big mess.
Amazing how dark that room immediately got when the dark paint was applied. Basements benefit from as much light source as possible. Our basement was just refinished in white paint and I highly recommend.
Terrific tips provided above. Some tips from a 50-year veteran: While it is quite common and time efficient to roll a wall from top to bottom try left to right. Maintain a wet edge and overlap at least 1/3 to 1/2 of the roller's width. This method is a bit harder on the body as it requires bending at the knees. I have found this to provide excellent results. A drawback is potential paint running due to heavier coverage due to the overlap, use an excellent quality paint to avoid this. When painting ceilings use superior quality paint with the largest quantity of solids available. Use as wide a roller as you can manage, overlap each time 50%, work quickly and maintain a wet edge. For optimum results paint over a good grey primer. Painting over previously painted walls and ceilings requires sanding to remove inferior paint solids, washing with a decent quality detergent and warm water to ensure a smooth surface, repeat sanding and washing walls if necessary. Keep some joint compound handy on your drywall knife and allow it to cure during this process to cover those old hammer dents which are hard to locate but often show after finish painting! Use a shop vacuum to suck the dust from the outlet and switch boxes. Gently use a dry wall knife or long straight edge to pry the edge of woodwork from the wall, tape horizontal surfaces. Finally for that tricky joint between the wall and ceiling, practice, practice cutting in. Good at applying caulking? Try running a thin line of caulk along this joint, use a corner toll to smooth.
When you prime your patches, you don't have to use an actual primer. You can use the wall paint to spot prime and you won't get flashing, but if the wall paint is a matte or anything higher in sheen than an eggshell, I would use an actual primer because the drying time will be a minimum of 2 hours, whereas a primer is a max of an hour. If you apply a coat of paint over patches that appear dry, but are not completely dry, you will get blisters almost immediately. And that is a real pain in the ... because now you have to scrape the blisters, prime them, wait for drying, patch them, wait to dry, sand, prime again, wait to dry again, sand ...
Did a good portion of my basement and payed to have it painted. 1400sqft primed, trim chaulked and painted, doors painted, and 5 different colors in 2 and a half days. Saved me so much time and headache, worth the money.
Find your wall studs before nailing the baseboard molding on (if you’re painting new drywall, the compound will show you where the studs are). Mark their location with a piece of painters tape. Then your nailing will go quickly and you’ll hit the stud on the first try. 👍
All really decent tips. I'm a painter, and I agree with most of these. However, if your spraying your ceiling, you should be spraying your trim too. I mean if you have the skills to spray 1, you can definitely spray the other.
Best baseboard Idea I seen was to take a tongue and groove board and cut the tongue off. Then cut the back side groove off. Trim the bottom of the drywall off almost the width of the board and use spacers to space the board out with the grove overlapping the drywall. Put it on with trim screws and when it or the walls need new paint, just unscrew it.
Hi Jeff. I recently found you on TH-cam when I was looking at reno help. Contemplating purchasing a single family home - converted to a triplex but I plan to convert it back .. biggest catch, house was built in 1887, but wait there’s more… it has hydro , gas and water for each separate unit.. I am by no means a handy person but hoping this isn’t a costly mistake , your farm house videos have helped a great deal with what I think I could possibly do. Wish this fellow Ontarioan luck!
I’m glad to see you’re a proponent of putting the flooring and baseboards in before final paint! I’ve been pulling my hair out with this and whether or not to do it this way!🤦🏻♂️ To me it seems to be the lesser of the evils to install the floor and pre painted baseboard, caulk it all in, and paint everything instead of having to go back and touch up the baseboard caulk to the wall after the walls are painted. The downside is sweating getting paint ,dust, etc on new flooring. This is a controversial subject all across the inter webs lol
A tip worth making: when you caulk trim don’t caulk bare wood. I’m doing a paint job and there are multiple failures of caulk peeling off the trim. Scraping away the trim I found the carpenter used unprimed pine trim and caulked the bare wood. Caulk doesn’t form a lasting bond to unprimed wood. Scraping off the failed caulk is a real pain. I’m spot priming after removing the old caulk and the new caulk will last.
That handle on the paint tray so you don't have to bend down every time you move it! That's great and I need one but it looks like a d i c k lol 🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
I would probably wait to install my baseboard and window casing until I was done painting the walls and ceiling. It’s way less cutting in while painting and I’m not concerned about hitting the trim with wall paint.
You have to calk around all of your trim as part of the installation. Even if you manage a perfect bead on everything ( almost impossible) latex caulking will turn yellow over time. I have many years experience in new construction and this video explains every step perfectly.
Friendly tip! Great video as always! 👍This is how the pro's do it. Do it right the first time. Purchase quality tools and paint. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
Hey brotha I noticed that during your videos you start breathing pretty heavy. You should get checked for a deviated septum, and get it fixed. You will notice a huge difference. That being said your videos have helped me so much. I walked away from a 100k a year job to start my own business. Your videos helped give me the courage to do so. Keep up the good work!
Can you make a video on pros and cons on which order to do flooring trim and paint? I've seen sometimes you do trim then floors then paint but I've also seen you paint then trim then floor
I always paint trim before installing. Better to paint something on a saw horse rather than contorting to paint 4 inches off the ground. You only get one spine.
Hey Jeff, and community! This might be unrelated, but do you clean paint rollers after a job or are they one time use? And if so, how do you clean them? Could only find how to clean brushes on the channel. Thanks!
I mostly only work with microfiber refills now, and if cared for properly, they can be washed and used several times. Scrape out as much paint as possible (usually a cup worth can be squeezed out), and wash in warm water. I use a bit of Dawn too, but you need to be sure it is rinsed thoroughly. I then put it back on the cage, take it outside and give it a few good spins, remove and let dry vertically.
Hello Jeff from HomeRenoVision. Just jumping in here as it seems to be your latest release. My comment has nothing to do with painting but a suggestion/request for a future video. All this talk about framing, electrical, plumbing, drywall, flooring, etc., etc., etc. How about something on co-axial cable? I'm sure a lot of people ( wink, wink ) who are renovating basements will be needing TV/Internet outlets somewhere down the road. Maybe, just maybe, 🙂if you're running out of things to talk about you might find time to throw a 20 minute vid together on running coax, spltters, outlets etc. Cheers
aaaah my parents knew a manic painter that would take his time but get it all right like you do. what a shame he's retired. maybe i can convince him to come help me do it like u do :)
I have a 25 yr old home that is entirely painted inside from top to bottom with oil based enamel paint. I want to paint, but don't want to go with oil based and don't want to have to sand etc. What do I do?
Oh yea, good job getting paint splatter on your baseboards from the roller because you were too lazy to tape them off. If you buy a good quality trim paint, you can mask them off the next day and it won't peal off the trim paint
call me a fool, but i put the base board on after painting the wall. or i use a flush base board (yes, that means two layers of drywall) but looks clean AF, if you are into the modern minimalist look.
I got some great tips from you and painted 2 rooms after 30 years - however, my rooms had sinks, toilets, central heating controls, windows, doors, boilers, electrical systems, alarm control panels etc. The cutting in was a nightmare - I love that you demonstrate with blank walls that doesn't represent the challenge most of us face when painting.
Jeff, thank you for another heart-stopping, "ooh I gotta get one of those" moments. But -gasp- none of your links had where to get that yellow Simms paint tray pole holder. I did see where Amazon had your videos and I saw you showcase the paint tray and holder again, but no links. Of all the home reno I do painting is my gig. By the way, I teach Family and Consumer Sciences and when I do the housing unit I show the students some of your videos all the while claiming that "I love that guy!"
I do not find a link on any of your videos for that device that you connect to the paint tray that holds the roller and extension. Google has not been able to find it for me either. Not sure what it is called. Would you please provide a link? Thank you.
How do you know if your paint is too thick or bad quality? My paint was like spreading Nutella on a wall so I added water but it still felt difficult to use, like I was using a dry brush instead of one covered in paint even though it seemed pretty thin. I got a regular brand paint to not very cheap. I’m not sure what the problem is here. (In the end it looks good, fortunately, but it was a pain.)
Questions... is it possible to prime/paint the room then install the painted trim? Would this create other difficulties? Seems like it would shorten cutting time and not have to worry about messing up trim.
You will have to caulk against your painted walls - and then 'cut' the color against your trim. If your cut is thick, that will show a different texture than your roller. I like to get the roller as close to the trim (and ceiling by going horizontal with the roller) as possible. They call that line 'hat banding' where at the ceiling edge you see a definite difference in texture. Same thing applies vertically.
@@maddierosemusic I consider myself a perfectionist and I install trim after painting walls and don't paint over caulking. You would need to get on your hands and knees to notice "excess" unpainted caulking on the wall.
@@briansegall1084 That's great - until you run into a job where the walls are not really straight and you get gaps over 1/8" which need caulk. Sometimes 1/2", believe it or not!
@@maddierosemusic the question is really geared towards new construction like this basement. I wasn't considering jobs like you're talking about, which is a good point.
You'll never get a free-hand line as straight as you will with tape, and for how much perfection you strive for, that is your Achilles heel. At the end of the video even threw a camera I see the waves in that trim.
Jeff, I've always wondered if you wipe down the walls after sanding but before adding a coat to remove the dust. You never mention it in your videos, so I'm guessing no?
I use my shop vac religiously and if I can, I actually use my lawn blower to blow all that dust out of the rooms. Notice he takes his duster and dusts the tops of the baseboards; I like to vacuum that up.
Long-time viewer your painting and flooring videos have come in handy on many occasions. But last winter I have moved into a house built in the early seventies that has shingle asbestos siding. And reno season will be right around the corner as soon as it warms up. Is there any major precautions that you have to deal with when dealing with their kind of siding. Not doing much just putting up some lights for yard
I have a question about sanding. My walls have a texture on them. I am not sure if I should sand because I do not want to inadvertently over sanding one area and creating an uneven texture. These texture walls are very common in the United States southwest. I believe on the east coast, and in Canada, the walls do not have this texture.
I really like hearing Jeff's voice. It's soothing for me. I don't always 'watch' him as the cut together pieces that produce the whole sentence/subject often seem erratically jumpy. ❓❓ Question: Max, how many attempts does it take to get the whole statement? 😆
For the most part I just talk and we do a quick cut if I trip on my words. We are currently editing for retention as an experiment. (removing unnecessary space between words and thoughts)
Hey Jeff, I'm replacing some exterior trim on my parents house and I got a question for ya about it. This trim was primed with Cover Stain Oil based primer (multiple layers) and then an exterior acrylic enamel. The trim was in terrible shape, in many areas it was rotted so much that only the paint shell remained and where there was still wood it was wet and spongy (The trim seemed to be painted well too, back primed and primed on the butt ends.) The last rain we had had was multiple weeks prior, which brings me to my question. Would using a primer that is higher perm help extend the life of the exterior trim? If so what type of primer/paint might you use on your project?
Isn't the problem with painted Base Boards coming back for touch up is u get the Flash? I know it has to do with the finish, but mostly paint is a Semi or Satin finish? And, u don't mention After your finished Base Boards installed, u roll the walls, 100% guarantee u will get Splatter on the tops of your Base Boards. U do cover the touch ups in the end of the video, but u don't mention the splatter from Rolling the walls. Great Video 👍👍
You won't get splatter with high quality paint an rollers - like Ben Moore Aura or the Regal line. If you take it easy on your wall cut, you merely have to cut the very top of your baseboards. Even still, seeing a flash on a baseboard means you are looking at it from an extreme angle. Trade offs, my friend!
The order I do things is pre-paint the baseboards, paint the walls, install flooring, then install baseboards. That way I don't have to protect the subfloor or baseboards from paint. There's no need to get on your knees to cut in at the bottom of the walls since the baseboards aren't there yet. Much easier to roll on the paint within an inch off the floor. I'm not sure why painting was done last in this video. What am I missing? Is it just unfortunate scheduling of subcontractors? (it looks like you hired a painter)
Don’t you still need to reach down to touch up your baseboards after install, including detail work of painting the caulk line along top edge of the baseboard?
@@jroy375 Yeah, I need to touch up nail holes. It's a minor inconvenience of pre-painting the baseboards. Despite that, IMO pre-painting baseboards is still much better than painting them in place. I'm not concerned with painting the caulk line as you need to get in very close to even notice that it wasn't painted. Baseboards and caulking are usually white, so the caulk blends in with the baseboard from even a few feet away.
Great information, great tips. Can we please stop propagating the lie that not using tape is better. Cut lines always look inferior. There's nothing worse than seeing the orange peel texture on a wall interrupted by a quart of brushed paint approaching trim.
What's a prime check? Why would you need to use acetone to take paint off of wood? Isn't latex paint water soluble? You say to paint the baseboards before installing them but then there's a whole section on cutting in the baseboards? Either I'm too dumb to understand this or it's moving just a bit too fast.
Not fun of using tape b/c usually sits there for at least 24-50 hrs b/c have other jobs gotta do, and when go back to remove tape, your usually in an world of pain, as redoing the good job just did days before 🤦🏼 So, was taught to use zero tape and for windows we use the paint on liquid protector that peals right off afterwards and been doing it this way for decades w/ great results. Now, only thing we have changed, here n there…..the new vac system for sanding drywall and drywall mud w/ ,raving 98-99% no “dust” yes, Festool and makita system is pricey and homeowners can get away w/o buying, for a pro; will save time and make money imo. Cheers✌🏻
Thanks for watching. Learn the entire process of how to paint a room step by step 👉🏼 th-cam.com/video/bLbUIevOxzY/w-d-xo.html Find my favourite paint supplies 👉🏼 🇺🇸 amzn.to/3wUuiu4 🇨🇦amzn.to/3A11Qax
Cheers!
it is an honor to tell you that you are my 1st choice when it comes to see a video for my projects, thanks for sharing your acknowledge and experience.
I've had so many bad experiences relying on painters tape over the years, but once I watched your videos on how to paint edges and corners, I've never looked back. I did the bathroom with a new ceiling color and accent wall and it looks phenomenal, if I do say so myself. Cheers!
Not to mention taping is a huge waste of time. Get a good brush, put plenty of paint on it, and start cutting!
Great to hear!
The only way you can avoid having to touchup or patch after putting paint on the wall is the tint your primer. White primer not much is going to show up but if you tint it that's when it shows up with the color change. Even if you just take a little bit of your finish paint and add a cup into the primer it makes the world of difference
Tint not tent
@@mknm1349 F U C K OFF How's that TH-cam grammar police idiot
Thanks for the pro tip 👍
@@hafeezurrahman1000 pp0p00⁰
Unreal timing - finishing my basement now and getting ready to put down flooring and paint in the next couple of weeks!
I love watching your years off trade mastery at work. Thanks so much for sharing!
Great tips as always! People used to ask me why I "charged so much" to paint a room. Once I explained my process, they understood. I'll also say don't cheap out on paint. Get the good stuff - it's totally worth the extra $10 or $20 per gallon.
So true drew!
What would you consider "cheap"? Is the most expensive paint at HD or Lowes sufficient, or do I need to shop at a paint specialty store for quality paint?
@Joe Momma depends on what you're painting. Just my opinion here but formed after painting a lot of rooms and using a lot of different paints. HD uses Behr and their top line Marquee is nice. I prefer Lowe's though since they use Sherwin Williams and their Infinity level is excellent. Totally fine to go to HD or Lowe's for paint. That said, if it's a room you're putting a ton of effort into that you really want to showcase, you will get measurably better quality going to a dedicated paint store and I am a huge fan of Benjamin Moore paint.
@@Cliff_Hanger9465 I agree with Drew - Ben Moore Regal line, or even better, the Aura Matte finish for walls is the best finish you can buy.
I hate Box Store paint. All paint companies have multiple lines of quality. The box store sells the worst for the highest price they can squeeze out of you.
Yep, that's how ya paint like a pro everytime and save yourself some 💰and time! Thanks Jeff! Cheers!
You got that right! Cheers Prophetess!
A whole lot of so called professional painters need to see this video and actually follow the advice. It is so hard to find a good paint company these days. They just won't do the prep work! Much Thanks!
They do it, but cut corners where they can get away with it. They don't sand between each coat; they sometimes don't prime doors or frames, sometimes they only do one coat, depending on lighting. But usually it's not the painter but their boss that just wants the job done as fast as possible.
That yellow stand that's on your paint tray is genius! I've always laid the handle on the floor but then it's a tripping hazard with the potential for a big mess.
Cheers ! If I had a dollar for everytime I stepped in a tray or tripped on a handle.
Where did you get that yellow arm from? I can't find it anywhere!
Amazing how dark that room immediately got when the dark paint was applied. Basements benefit from as much light source as possible. Our basement was just refinished in white paint and I highly recommend.
That color gray is PERFECT though for a movie / gaming room.
It's his torture room, you can't have white walls in a torture room 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Agreed! It looks like a prison cell with that dark grey!
Terrific tips provided above. Some tips from a 50-year veteran: While it is quite common and time efficient to roll a wall from top to bottom try left to right. Maintain a wet edge and overlap at least 1/3 to 1/2 of the roller's width. This method is a bit harder on the body as it requires bending at the knees. I have found this to provide excellent results. A drawback is potential paint running due to heavier coverage due to the overlap, use an excellent quality paint to avoid this.
When painting ceilings use superior quality paint with the largest quantity of solids available. Use as wide a roller as you can manage, overlap each time 50%, work quickly and maintain a wet edge. For optimum results paint over a good grey primer.
Painting over previously painted walls and ceilings requires sanding to remove inferior paint solids, washing with a decent quality detergent and warm water to ensure a smooth surface, repeat sanding and washing walls if necessary. Keep some joint compound handy on your drywall knife and allow it to cure during this process to cover those old hammer dents which are hard to locate but often show after finish painting! Use a shop vacuum to suck the dust from the outlet and switch boxes. Gently use a dry wall knife or long straight edge to pry the edge of woodwork from the wall, tape horizontal surfaces.
Finally for that tricky joint between the wall and ceiling, practice, practice cutting in. Good at applying caulking? Try running a thin line of caulk along this joint, use a corner toll to smooth.
When you prime your patches, you don't have to use an actual primer. You can use the wall paint to spot prime and you won't get flashing, but if the wall paint is a matte or anything higher in sheen than an eggshell, I would use an actual primer because the drying time will be a minimum of 2 hours, whereas a primer is a max of an hour. If you apply a coat of paint over patches that appear dry, but are not completely dry, you will get blisters almost immediately. And that is a real pain in the ... because now you have to scrape the blisters, prime them, wait for drying, patch them, wait to dry, sand, prime again, wait to dry again, sand ...
Did a good portion of my basement and payed to have it painted. 1400sqft primed, trim chaulked and painted, doors painted, and 5 different colors in 2 and a half days. Saved me so much time and headache, worth the money.
Well done Cory! Cheers!
This is the earliest I’ve ever been to a video
Cheers Jay!
Brilliant, thanks Jeff 👍
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers!
Find your wall studs before nailing the baseboard molding on (if you’re painting new drywall, the compound will show you where the studs are). Mark their location with a piece of painters tape. Then your nailing will go quickly and you’ll hit the stud on the first try. 👍
If you have a bare concrete floor you will mark them with your carpenter's pencil on the floor.
All really decent tips. I'm a painter, and I agree with most of these. However, if your spraying your ceiling, you should be spraying your trim too. I mean if you have the skills to spray 1, you can definitely spray the other.
Amazing Chanel, amazing advices, amazing Jeff ❤
I am mid way through self decorating an entire house and have used your tips the whole time :) Prob owe you a beer when I’m done ha
Love the channel. Appreciate you taking the time to teach us the tricks of the trade
My pleasure!
Brilliant process
Best baseboard Idea I seen was to take a tongue and groove board and cut the tongue off. Then cut the back side groove off. Trim the bottom of the drywall off almost the width of the board and use spacers to space the board out with the grove overlapping the drywall. Put it on with trim screws and when it or the walls need new paint, just unscrew it.
Hi Jeff. I recently found you on TH-cam when I was looking at reno help. Contemplating purchasing a single family home - converted to a triplex but I plan to convert it back .. biggest catch, house was built in 1887, but wait there’s more… it has hydro , gas and water for each separate unit.. I am by no means a handy person but hoping this isn’t a costly mistake , your farm house videos have helped a great deal with what I think I could possibly do. Wish this fellow Ontarioan luck!
Hi Stacey! join us for the live show tomorrow! Join our membership and we can help you out. Cheers!
love how you say multiple times "do things in order". Waaaay easier to install case and base after painting the room
Do you recommend cleaning the wall after sanding?
Perfect as always! You're very good!!!
Greetings from Bulgaria!
Cheers to Bulgaria!
I’d love to see what the walls look like with a work light right next to the wall lighting the wall up from the top and side.
I’m glad to see you’re a proponent of putting the flooring and baseboards in before final paint! I’ve been pulling my hair out with this and whether or not to do it this way!🤦🏻♂️
To me it seems to be the lesser of the evils to install the floor and pre painted baseboard, caulk it all in, and paint everything instead of having to go back and touch up the baseboard caulk to the wall after the walls are painted. The downside is sweating getting paint ,dust, etc on new flooring.
This is a controversial subject all across the inter webs lol
Love your channel. Keep up the great conrent.👍😊
Your a good painter.
Jeff is a very high skilled professional painter. The gooseneck guy! Cheers! 😊
A tip worth making: when you caulk trim don’t caulk bare wood. I’m doing a paint job and there are multiple failures of caulk peeling off the trim. Scraping away the trim I found the carpenter used unprimed pine trim and caulked the bare wood. Caulk doesn’t form a lasting bond to unprimed wood. Scraping off the failed caulk is a real pain. I’m spot priming after removing the old caulk and the new caulk will last.
I single handedly painted my entire house without any tape this past summer. We sold our house of 13 years!
well done Rachael. Cheers!
As always great video. I have learned so many different techniques I am amazed. Thank you and keep them coming.
Thanks, will do!
That handle on the paint tray so you don't have to bend down every time you move it! That's great and I need one but it looks like a d i c k lol
🇺🇸💪🏻👊🏻🤙🏼
but it keeps your from having a spill accident and keeps the stick from getting kicked out of the tray.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY never seen one but I'm definitely getting one.
I would probably wait to install my baseboard and window casing until I was done painting the walls and ceiling. It’s way less cutting in while painting and I’m not concerned about hitting the trim with wall paint.
You have to calk around all of your trim as part of the installation. Even if you manage a perfect bead on everything ( almost impossible) latex caulking will turn yellow over time. I have many years experience in new construction and this video explains every step perfectly.
Hi Jeff, do you have a video regarding DIY painting of a concrete floor? Thanks
Friendly tip! Great video as always! 👍This is how the pro's do it. Do it right the first time. Purchase quality tools and paint. The gooseneck guy! Cheers!
Cheers Donald! Great to hear from you again!
Option 3 for painting your ceiling: hang crown molding and you won’t have to worry about cutting in the walls
Sometimes that just doesn't work with the design/style. But yes, decent trim work is better than poor paint work!
I agree that crown doesn't work for every house
@@LinksterGaming me, too. Modern styling can clash with crown molding.
I want to get rid of stains on my wall. Is that necessary to paint the ceiling too?
Hey brotha I noticed that during your videos you start breathing pretty heavy. You should get checked for a deviated septum, and get it fixed. You will notice a huge difference. That being said your videos have helped me so much. I walked away from a 100k a year job to start my own business. Your videos helped give me the courage to do so. Keep up the good work!
Wow man, your awesome! Thank you so much! The previous homeowner to our home painted. AKA sh*t show! Now I believe we know how to fix it ❤
Great video! Thank you sir!
Another great video.
Can you make a video on pros and cons on which order to do flooring trim and paint? I've seen sometimes you do trim then floors then paint but I've also seen you paint then trim then floor
I always paint trim before installing. Better to paint something on a saw horse rather than contorting to paint 4 inches off the ground. You only get one spine.
Hey Jeff, and community! This might be unrelated, but do you clean paint rollers after a job or are they one time use? And if so, how do you clean them? Could only find how to clean brushes on the channel. Thanks!
I do. will make a video on this for sure.
I mostly only work with microfiber refills now, and if cared for properly, they can be washed and used several times. Scrape out as much paint as possible (usually a cup worth can be squeezed out), and wash in warm water. I use a bit of Dawn too, but you need to be sure it is rinsed thoroughly. I then put it back on the cage, take it outside and give it a few good spins, remove and let dry vertically.
Hello Jeff from HomeRenoVision. Just jumping in here as it seems to be your latest release. My comment has nothing to do with painting but a suggestion/request for a future video. All this talk about framing, electrical, plumbing, drywall, flooring, etc., etc., etc. How about something on co-axial cable? I'm sure a lot of people ( wink, wink ) who are renovating basements will be needing TV/Internet outlets somewhere down the road. Maybe, just maybe, 🙂if you're running out of things to talk about you might find time to throw a 20 minute vid together on running coax, spltters, outlets etc. Cheers
aaaah my parents knew a manic painter that would take his time but get it all right like you do. what a shame he's retired. maybe i can convince him to come help me do it like u do :)
So stressful I hope all goes well. My first job painting wish me luck 🤞
You are a legend
I have a 25 yr old home that is entirely painted inside from top to bottom with oil based enamel paint. I want to paint, but don't want to go with oil based and don't want to have to sand etc. What do I do?
Oh yea, good job getting paint splatter on your baseboards from the roller because you were too lazy to tape them off. If you buy a good quality trim paint, you can mask them off the next day and it won't peal off the trim paint
call me a fool, but i put the base board on after painting the wall.
or i use a flush base board (yes, that means two layers of drywall) but looks clean AF, if you are into the modern minimalist look.
Sanding seems straightforward, however, in this and other videos you never mention dust cleanup prior to painting. Is dust cleanup not necessary?
Really depends on how much there is if just a little probably want have a problem but the cleaner the room is the less chance you get debris in paint
Piece of cake!
If you use a sprayer you can backroll it so if you need to do touch ups it wont be as visible
I got some great tips from you and painted 2 rooms after 30 years - however, my rooms had sinks, toilets, central heating controls, windows, doors, boilers, electrical systems, alarm control panels etc. The cutting in was a nightmare - I love that you demonstrate with blank walls that doesn't represent the challenge most of us face when painting.
LOL. I get it, however cutting in is cutting in. on busy walls just cut and roll 1 wall at a time to keep the edge wet. Cheers!
Jeff: "use tarps because mistakes happen when you don't expect it"
Also Jeff: "don't use tape, just learn to paint better"
@@dylan-nguyen I was kidding, he's explained it multiple videos
@@yeeaahBUDDY crap my b
Jeff, thank you for another heart-stopping, "ooh I gotta get one of those" moments. But -gasp- none of your links had where to get that yellow Simms paint tray pole holder. I did see where Amazon had your videos and I saw you showcase the paint tray and holder again, but no links. Of all the home reno I do painting is my gig. By the way, I teach Family and Consumer Sciences and when I do the housing unit I show the students some of your videos all the while claiming that "I love that guy!"
Cheers Wendy, we don't have a reliable distribution in the U.S. so I don't have a link. try dulux in canada if you have one. Cheers!
I do not find a link on any of your videos for that device that you connect to the paint tray that holds the roller and extension. Google has not been able to find it for me either. Not sure what it is called. Would you please provide a link? Thank you.
How do you know if your paint is too thick or bad quality? My paint was like spreading Nutella on a wall so I added water but it still felt difficult to use, like I was using a dry brush instead of one covered in paint even though it seemed pretty thin. I got a regular brand paint to not very cheap. I’m not sure what the problem is here. (In the end it looks good, fortunately, but it was a pain.)
Questions... is it possible to prime/paint the room then install the painted trim? Would this create other difficulties? Seems like it would shorten cutting time and not have to worry about messing up trim.
You will have to caulk against your painted walls - and then 'cut' the color against your trim. If your cut is thick, that will show a different texture than your roller. I like to get the roller as close to the trim (and ceiling by going horizontal with the roller) as possible. They call that line 'hat banding' where at the ceiling edge you see a definite difference in texture. Same thing applies vertically.
@@maddierosemusic I consider myself a perfectionist and I install trim after painting walls and don't paint over caulking. You would need to get on your hands and knees to notice "excess" unpainted caulking on the wall.
@@briansegall1084 That's great - until you run into a job where the walls are not really straight and you get gaps over 1/8" which need caulk. Sometimes 1/2", believe it or not!
@@maddierosemusic the question is really geared towards new construction like this basement. I wasn't considering jobs like you're talking about, which is a good point.
First. Love the content. Keep it up
Thanks! Will do! Cheers!
You'll never get a free-hand line as straight as you will with tape, and for how much perfection you strive for, that is your Achilles heel. At the end of the video even threw a camera I see the waves in that trim.
How many hours total did it take to finish the paint job?
What is the best interior paint / brand to use?
Jeff, I've always wondered if you wipe down the walls after sanding but before adding a coat to remove the dust. You never mention it in your videos, so I'm guessing no?
I actually covered that in my latest painting video in a stairwell.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY no
I use my shop vac religiously and if I can, I actually use my lawn blower to blow all that dust out of the rooms. Notice he takes his duster and dusts the tops of the baseboards; I like to vacuum that up.
Why wouldn’t you do the paint before the floor and trim?
ty
Great Video I wish I can buy the yellow pole holder and paint tray from Amazon 😢
i have to correct u regarding tape if you use frog tape u will not pull off the paint also i agree people should learn to cut in
Where did you get the paint roller stand from?
Long-time viewer your painting and flooring videos have come in handy on many occasions. But last winter I have moved into a house built in the early seventies that has shingle asbestos siding. And reno season will be right around the corner as soon as it warms up. Is there any major precautions that you have to deal with when dealing with their kind of siding. Not doing much just putting up some lights for yard
What do you recommend to stop the wood grain from showing through when plywood is used around the windows?
use cabinet grade maple ply.
Acrylic enamel or latex for trim?
I have a question about sanding. My walls have a texture on them. I am not sure if I should sand because I do not want to inadvertently over sanding one area and creating an uneven texture. These texture walls are very common in the United States southwest. I believe on the east coast, and in Canada, the walls do not have this texture.
Can you sand the walls if they have orange peele texture? Do you wash them down after you sand them before the next layer?
a light sanding removes lint from the rollers. Cheers!
I really like hearing Jeff's voice. It's soothing for me.
I don't always 'watch' him as the cut together pieces that produce the whole sentence/subject often seem erratically jumpy. ❓❓ Question: Max, how many attempts does it take to get the whole statement? 😆
For the most part I just talk and we do a quick cut if I trip on my words. We are currently editing for retention as an experiment. (removing unnecessary space between words and thoughts)
Whats the yellow device that hold your roller and is a handle for your paint tray??????
Hey Jeff, I'm replacing some exterior trim on my parents house and I got a question for ya about it. This trim was primed with Cover Stain Oil based primer (multiple layers) and then an exterior acrylic enamel. The trim was in terrible shape, in many areas it was rotted so much that only the paint shell remained and where there was still wood it was wet and spongy (The trim seemed to be painted well too, back primed and primed on the butt ends.) The last rain we had had was multiple weeks prior, which brings me to my question. Would using a primer that is higher perm help extend the life of the exterior trim? If so what type of primer/paint might you use on your project?
Isn't the problem with painted Base Boards coming back for touch up is u get the Flash?
I know it has to do with the finish, but mostly paint is a Semi or Satin finish?
And, u don't mention After your finished Base Boards installed, u roll the walls, 100% guarantee u will get Splatter on the tops of your Base Boards.
U do cover the touch ups in the end of the video, but u don't mention the splatter from Rolling the walls.
Great Video 👍👍
You won't get splatter with high quality paint an rollers - like Ben Moore Aura or the Regal line. If you take it easy on your wall cut, you merely have to cut the very top of your baseboards. Even still, seeing a flash on a baseboard means you are looking at it from an extreme angle. Trade offs, my friend!
Sand after priming?
Will thin set bond to Lepage 2in1?
Why install the window trim before the walls are painted?
so the caulking gets painted as well. Cheers!
The order I do things is pre-paint the baseboards, paint the walls, install flooring, then install baseboards. That way I don't have to protect the subfloor or baseboards from paint. There's no need to get on your knees to cut in at the bottom of the walls since the baseboards aren't there yet. Much easier to roll on the paint within an inch off the floor.
I'm not sure why painting was done last in this video. What am I missing? Is it just unfortunate scheduling of subcontractors? (it looks like you hired a painter)
Don’t you still need to reach down to touch up your baseboards after install, including detail work of painting the caulk line along top edge of the baseboard?
I do it in the same order. The more I can avoid taping/cutting the better. Get the walls done and then install the trim.
@@jroy375 Yeah, I need to touch up nail holes. It's a minor inconvenience of pre-painting the baseboards. Despite that, IMO pre-painting baseboards is still much better than painting them in place.
I'm not concerned with painting the caulk line as you need to get in very close to even notice that it wasn't painted. Baseboards and caulking are usually white, so the caulk blends in with the baseboard from even a few feet away.
What about using the sprayer to do the whole job???
no can do when it comes to custom color. if only applying primer then yes.
How do you handle a concrete wall?
I'm doing painting job Manchester
Does those edging paint pads work with cutting to get those straight lines with ceiling floor trim?
only for the first 20 minutes. then they make a mess!
love the video, but why on earth would you paint wall gray? they look like my garage floor 😂😂😂😂
My wife keeps referring to Jeff as "Blue Shirt Guy".
I think it's 🤣😂
branding is everything.
Do you always have to prime your walls?
I thought you only had to do that if you paint lighter?
I think you have to prime new walls because it helps to see if there are any imperfections that need to be taken care of before painting.
Great information, great tips. Can we please stop propagating the lie that not using tape is better. Cut lines always look inferior. There's nothing worse than seeing the orange peel texture on a wall interrupted by a quart of brushed paint approaching trim.
Personally I would recommend the use of tape. I think it’s a matter of choosing the right one.
no tape works on new construction. Cheers!
What's a prime check?
Why would you need to use acetone to take paint off of wood? Isn't latex paint water soluble?
You say to paint the baseboards before installing them but then there's a whole section on cutting in the baseboards?
Either I'm too dumb to understand this or it's moving just a bit too fast.
latex paint wall finish all has acrylic in it. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Yes...but it's water soluble. I've never heard of using acetone to clean it. Do you mean after it's dry?
It's soluble - until it dries. Then you need Goof off, acetone, alcohol, etc.
@@maddierosemusic Cool, thank you.
Not fun of using tape b/c usually sits there for at least 24-50 hrs b/c have other jobs gotta do, and when go back to remove tape, your usually in an world of pain, as redoing the good job just did days before 🤦🏼
So, was taught to use zero tape and for windows we use the paint on liquid protector that peals right off afterwards and been doing it this way for decades w/ great results.
Now, only thing we have changed, here n there…..the new vac system for sanding drywall and drywall mud w/ ,raving 98-99% no “dust” yes, Festool and makita system is pricey and homeowners can get away w/o buying, for a pro; will save time and make money imo.
Cheers✌🏻
What type of primer are you using on the plywood?
drywall primer sealer. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks! Would the Zinsser odourless work? Or should I buy another primer that’s specifically for drywall?
it will work. and it is overkill. Cheers!
When is yesterday's live stream getting posted?
It was posted to members only. You can find it on the members community tab. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY ah! The members tab is the only place I didn't look.
literally just got back home from painting