Retired drywall man here.Please wait on putting anything over the insulation . The moisture off the metal will soak the insulation. If you add drywall over the insulation you will have double trouble. Before you add any covering plywood / chipboard or drywall you will need deadwood blocking in most of the area's in the corner's and around the ceiling. You will need to run 1 by 4 wood strip's over the metal before you can do anything. The 4 by 8 insulation panel's 3 in thick is what you needed but I understand trying to insulate on the cheaper side. They also make a insulation made just for building like your's. Not trying to be a downer because it look's nice but please wait on covering the walls for a little bit. It may save you a ton of work and money in the long run.
I got a question for you sir, does the same technique that you suggested apply to the inside of the metal roof in the garage? I just got a metal garage and trying to find what works and most importantly what lasts. I like his idea but after reading your post I'm a little hesitant. Thanks in advance
To prevent the sweating, you need a moisture barrier on the inside to "completely" prevent any warm air inside from getting through to the cold metal surface. Meaning it has to be totally sealed. The paper moisture barrier isn't enough. If they try to heat it in the winter, it will probably sweat badly. You would need a solid surface like plastic sheeting, and vinyl tape. Some builders actually do steel roofs with fiberglass touching the roofing. Like you, I personally wouldn't recommend it, but they do it anyway. The best way, is a solid moisture barrier on the inside, and at least a 1/2" air gap from the insulation to the metal roofing to allow air to flow and prevent the moisture build up.
OP post date 6-Feb-2020. Fast forward to May 2022. Did you find the Super77 held up so far? Have you had any problems with not applying a moisture barrier (double bubble radiant for example) first? Thanks for the time to produce and post this video. Super helpful!
I was just going to say I haven't noticed if you've looked at your insulation or anything but keep an eye on it because these buildings have a tendency to sweat a lot when it gets hot and cold and I was either told to use a mineral wool insulation or spray foam mineral wool is very highly water repellent they told me if I used regular insulation it was orbit like a sponge and eventually mold mineral will not mold but I was just going to say keep an eye out on it love your videos keep doing them
Im in the process of insulating my shop now. Im using just a simple radiant barrier with a lower r-value (I think r9) One side is white the other is reflective. This looks like it worked for you, I was concerned about the moisture barrier.
Yea, I'm doing a install now on mine with foam board .. trying to decide if I need an air gap or can I just glue it flat against the metal sheeting ? Any ideas ?
My shop is made the same way. Carport material. Very happy with it besides the spacing between the bracing. Made it extremely difficult to insulate and put walls up. All my vertical framing is between 52" and 59" apart so everything is off. I don't know why they didn't do 48" centers. If I knew then what I know now, I would've paid more to get the framing on 48" centers. Putting up r13 and 4x8 thermostat insulation has be a nightmare. Also my doors are the storage unit type roll up. I ordered extra large doors and spent thousands on them so I'm stuck with them for now. My advice, do not order roll up doors from the building company. Have your local garage door company put up nice rail type doors that fit tight against the frame and closes the air gap like you did. I spent over 50k on my building with no insulation, wiring, nothing. But I have 2k sqft. It's taken me 2 yrs to get the electrical done and now working on insulation/walls. Me being one person, it's hard work. But I've saved a ton doing it myself. Foam insulation just for the roof they quoted $6500. That's insane. I did r13 fiberglass on the walls and I'm doing bubble radiant barrier for the roof. Today I'm working on the mini split. Been weeks and still don't have it in. Going into winter and want heat so that's my goal the next few days.
Sorry to do this but as a word of caution to viewers who might choose to follow your directions, I have to rain on your parade. You are in a cold climate, the steel skin of your building is a vapor barrier and you are going to have condensation issues when water vapor reaches the metal. That is not a question of if but of how soon. How do I know? I do this for a living and know from experience (and building science) that fiber insulation just doesn’t work in this type of structure. You need an insulation system that prevents vapor from reaching cold surfaces and in reality that means closed cell spray foam. Yes, spray foam is more money up front but it works. If you continue down the path you are on now, you will end up ripping out your drywall and starting over.
DIY BOSS, in short - no. As I described in my original comment, the exterior vapor barrier (the steel) in combination with permeable insulation is the problem and adding another one will have no effect at all. The only way to insulate your building properly is to use an air- and vapor impermeable insulation system (i.e. closed cell spray foam) that will keep moisture from reaching the steel in the first place. Adding an additional interior vapor barrier between the drywall and the insulation is not a good idea either as it will create a system that will be unable to dry out in any direction.
@@torstenhansen4308 I'm actually in the process of buying one similar "I think" and an worried about insulation as I work with epoxy.. so I need warmth and a finished interior.. Soo the company suggested that bubble wrap stuff. That's what they use on the ceilings. Why wouldn't that work
Hey man looking sweet. Not sure what you got planned for hanging drywall but I was gonna mention using that bubble foil as a vapor barrier and then run 1x4 perpendicular to the metal on 16 inch centers then hang the drywall. The air gap will make that fool work better it’s amazing how much radiant heat can be reflected back into a place.
Eddy Goodwin thanks I appreciate it! And yeah I gotta put some vapor barrier up for sure and then drywall. But yeah that’s a good idea too I thought about doing that to mount the drywall to
Thanks for all the information from EVERYONE, this will save me a ton of trouble down the road. At least if this guy lives in New England, there's so little humidity year round, they'd be fine.
From experience with my own shop here in South Georgia, not worried so much with cold but triple digit temps in the summer, insulating that door will be worth every min. spent with it and its cheap and easy
I'm looking at this option right now. Did you install with an air gap? I see guys using 1x2 furring strips to create the air gap. How did you install and what would you do differently if doing again?
@@jaybabcock4557 an airgap is required for a thermal bridge to take place. The heat reflects off the radiant barrier. It's also good to have a gap to stop moisture and condensation issues.
People do not do this the way they are ! You must put styrofoam or something between the metal and insulation because it is going to sweat and will mold terrible !
Yup, I used a double sided foam board with glued standoffs one inch from the metal, and then did this with the fiber insulation. This way I have a heat barrier and a vapor barrier to prevent rust and mold.
I do not understand why so many people think you will have mold issues. I assume you live in Michigan or Indiana (colder regions). The faced insulation is a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier needs to be facing the warm side (which is the inside). I am literally doing the same thing and using osb for the walls and everything is working just fine. I do have a vented suspended heater along with a thru wall AC unit. That, I am sure, will help keep the interior dry. This is literally how people have been insulating old pole barns for decades... All you have to do is control the moisture. You do that by installing a vented heater and have AC or a dehumidifier. Do not use a heater that is not vented. That will cause moisture in the inside.
Not to be negative.. but I don’t think it will for very long with simple spray adhesive like that. I would be surprised if this installation was still holding up. Adhesive is probably failing or failed.
Same here I seen the other video u reviewing it.. and im.doing this year .. but i like to see drywalling ..os.already looking good im.already visualizing me working in it.. good job
Awesome, great to see young lads working hard. Watching this because I got a little shed that needs insulation.. my house would fit in your garage, 😂 but well done..
CONDENSATION!!!!! Better rip down now and do right or you can tear rusted out garage later. Hopefully after you have recovered from the lung infection from the mold.
My 400sqft tree/playhouse even has a sub panel ..and I did a 1½ gap between my tin roof and the vapor barrier like a bubble wrap foil stuff .. then the r 19 .. live and learn
Hope you felt the warmth difference , both last winter and many to come . You can never have too many outlets or enough power . 110 is good but have at least one 220 is better.
There are only two types of adhesives: 1) Those which have failed and 2) those which will fail. This spray stuff is a legitimate tool for securing the batts in place, but they shouldn't be relied as a permanent means of fixing them to the structure. Personally, I'd use this method in combination with a thin stud wall. Good video.
I wonder if you could get that in like a non-aerosol application with a weed sprayer or something cuz that looks like it'll be super helpful on the ceiling
I went closed spray foam and 99% of where I covered, has stopped condensation. Where I sprayed thin, it still condensates. Waiting til summer to RE-spray again. Also, I ran out after underestimating how much spray foam I would need so make sure you get more than you think you'll need.
please add plastic as a vapor barrier... i think if you are heating and creating moisture that will be important to keep that fiberglass from mold. Also... for a garage, I'd use OSB for walls as it is so easy to hang all kinds of stuff on wood ... also if you need to get in the wall... a few screws and you can remove a sheet easily.
If you were a female, well you know what I mean. If you built a taller garage (or twice the size), would you have done this yourself? What about trapped heat and or moisture on the metal structure? How are you preventing this and or water damage? Thanks!
The kraft paper with the asphalt coating on insulation is the vapor barrier, see it paper side out in crawlspaces and metal garages all the time. Turn it over before you continue.
Did you ever finish it up with plywood or Sheetrock? I don't see a problem with moisture myself.. The insulation should stop the condensation, since the temperature is going to slowly change between shop temp and into the insulation before getting to the outside metal sheeting.. But, we are curious to know how it is going after the time.. If you have time to do another video, go for it.. Something else to consider down the road for me.. I have never had in floor heating, but, it just makes sense to me and I built a Oil Burner that will do a nice job warming things up, ground up.. Thanks.. Nice shop/Garage.. Commented about using Silicone on the other video before I saw you had done it... You can drop some landscape fabric and gravel around the outside to stop the dirt splashing up.. Cheers!!
Thank you! No I didn’t ever end up putting walls up and I actually took the insulation down because the glue was failing and falling down. Gonna spray foam next I think. In floor heating would be awesome
I dont know what you are using this building for but I am waiting on my building to be delivered and they highly recommended the double bubble... that metal condensates.. after double bubble, frame and then do the pink insulation
Looking forward to seeing drywall. Im having a similar building installed in the south. Looks good! I'm adding the double bubble "insulation" more for a vapor barrier as well.
Place in georgia makes insulation with vapor barrier , insulation and white backing custom made into rolls same width as the rafters. 5ft. I am glad a watched this video. 3 m glue is a great idea.
In the process of deciding what type of garage to go with. Like what you have done here. What company did you order from and what are you going to finish over the insulation with? Looks really good!
Justin French thanks! Carport central if you watch my other garage video I review it and you can see everything about it and make your decision. And I think drywall but there’s a chance I use plywood but I’m gonna post a video when I do it too
I recommend not using a paper faced sheet rock. Eventually you will get some minor leaks if the siding is screwed on like my pole barn. Paper will attract mold.
@@YamRida468 Hey friend ~ Not trying to give you a hard time, but I'm curious did you experience any kind of mold and or rust? I noticed in the comments everyone carrying on about some type of vapor barrier needed. Thanks ✌
@@123keepitsimple97 don’t believe that. He definitely have mold that’s why he didn’t put up the drywall. He probably changed his mind & ripped that shit out lol 😂
came out good. I have the same type of garage and was told if i was going to heat it i couldnt use that type of insulation because the metal will get moist and mold the insulation. Let me know how it works for you when you heat it im looking to insulate mine
Yes it can especially in the northern climates. Hope you don’t try to heat it with propane. Every gallon on propane burned puts 1 gallon of water into the air. So it will have way higher humidity then out. Moisture moves from warm to cold. So it will drive the vapor through the fiberglass and then Condensate when it hits the metal. The best type of insulation for a metal building like this is closed cell foam.
Coffey's Garage he’s correct. When the warm air inside the building reaches the cold metal walls, condensation will form on the inside of your walls. That will soak the fiberglass, reducing its effectiveness and causing mold and/or mildew. You should have used insulation with a vinyl backing that stops the warm air from reaching the metal. The exposed studs would need a vapor barrier as well, or condensation will form on those, saturating your drywall when that’s installed. This is why people use closed cell spray foam to insulate these buildings. I’ll post a link to an article about it. Hopefully you can do something to prevent these problems. Good luck. www.whirlwindsteel.com/blog/bid/238023/tips-to-prevent-condensation-in-metal-buildings
Hi mate. Great video! Have you had any issues with condensation? I've a 40x13ft to put up and looking for insulation as I had to leave my other (uninsulated) shed for 6 months during lockdown. Checked on it the other day and it was pooling with condensation. Luckily what I had stored was covered anyway but it did leave a puddle in a few areas and a very wet roof
@Ed; Also the other way around, colder outside-warmer inside. My metal shed is 12x25, currently uninsulated and unheated, formed condensation on the ceiling due to snow on the roof. Even though the 'air' temp diff wasn't that far off, the snow on the roof kept the ceiling side of the metal panel at freezing and it sweat and dripped. Even if I insulate this spring will the insulation prevent sweating between the insulation and metal panels (walls or ceiling)?
I think your installation went pretty well and it looks good. I think over time, glue will not be enough to hold the ceiling panels in place. I’ve seen other installations where the that insulation starts to sag And separate. The price, less than $1000, is excellent.
Hi nice video. Love the garage. So I'm currently extending my welding shop and I have been a approved by my city to add an additional 20x24ft garage. So I'm looking for something like yours. What company is your shop from? Ty
Interceptor2500 it ended up being 6 cans of adhesive if I remember right. And it was 3 master bags of insulation. The ceiling insulation has fell in a few spots from the temp changes and the wind coming thru the top but I’ll put it back up when I do the ceiling
Oh man! This is a terrible idea! Your insulation will get moldy real quick. The vapor barrier will just trap moisture in between the steel and insulation.
You have no idea what you are talking about. Let me guess, you would suggest a vapor barrier on the outside and inside, am I right? That would cause mold for sure since you would have double vapor barriers that would trap moisture in the middle.. This is the correct way to insulate a pole barn and they have been doing it this way forever.. Just need to make sure the heater is vented and have a dehumidifier or AC unit removing moisture. No different than a house except a house will have way more moisture inside than this garage will ever have.
If you glue standard batts to the metal walls then dry wall over, what will happen if there is a leak from the outside? Will it not rot, as there is no vapour barrier, no gap to breathe?!
I just had a 30x36 one built. I prefer not to have it spray foamed, like this idea much better!!..Need a carpenter first, then electrical done before I reach this stage. ..thanks for your guidance!!
Well you added a whole bunch more insulation on that ceiling than you should have. Follow the trusses on the angle of the roof. No need to do the sidewalls above 8' There has to be some kind of venting or that stuff is going to be a mess in just 2 years.
Hi looks awsome I'm looking to purchase a similar garage. I live in west Central Alberta Canada. I do garage doors for work (16 years) I will be insulating and sheeting my garage with overhead door packaging panels completely free. Just a tip you should lower your lock on your door I know it says that in the instructions but it's almost pointless if you are able to lift it 3 inches they will be able to get in.
Why are there no answers to any questions regarding mold, rust or sweating? I am having one of these put up and I know they condensate, so I am looking for the best way to insulate that doesn't cost a fortune.
Wheres the next video with the drywall? Do you recommend 2 garage doors or 1 ? I'm in the process of ordering a 20x25, I like the look of a single garage door. I should ask for a single garage door. Theres so many options! I'm so stressed. 🥵
Gary Haber hopefully coming soon haha been a crazy summer! I would go with one if you can and make it wide like I did. Two is cool but then you always have a pillar in the middle and that would get annoying trying to avoid
@@YamRida468 my thoughts exactly. I have a deposit on a 2 door garage. I should change it before its fabrication is done. I like the regular garage door with the rails too. 👍
@@YamRida468 ordered mine today. 20x25 with a 14 x 7 door, going to buy one of those 4 piece roll doors with the rails/opener. Hate those mini storage type of doors. 👍👍 thanks bud. Looking forward to watching the next vid.
@@YamRida468 start tearing out the insulation now if your doing a vapor barrier!! And a true vapor barrier includes something between the studs and walls as well. Your BULLSHIT METAL BUILDING PEOPLE should have told you all this when they where selling you the building. They should have gave you the option of buying some sort of barrier material. It’s not your fault because you probably didn’t know but this is how these sham metal building company’s sell product. Unless you opted out the insulation they where offering then that’s another story! Good luck is all I can say! Proper insulation for a metal building can get very expensive and people don’t realize it till it’s too late 😩😩😩
Retired drywall man here.Please wait on putting anything over the insulation . The moisture off the metal will soak the insulation. If you add drywall over the insulation you will have double trouble. Before you add any covering plywood / chipboard or drywall you will need deadwood blocking in most of the area's in the corner's and around the ceiling. You will need to run 1 by 4 wood strip's over the metal before you can do anything. The 4 by 8 insulation panel's 3 in thick is what you needed but I understand trying to insulate on the cheaper side. They also make a insulation made just for building like your's. Not trying to be a downer because it look's nice but please wait on covering the walls for a little bit. It may save you a ton of work and money in the long run.
I got a question for you sir, does the same technique that you suggested apply to the inside of the metal roof in the garage? I just got a metal garage and trying to find what works and most importantly what lasts. I like his idea but after reading your post I'm a little hesitant. Thanks in advance
To prevent the sweating, you need a moisture barrier on the inside to "completely" prevent any warm air inside from getting through to the cold metal surface. Meaning it has to be totally sealed. The paper moisture barrier isn't enough. If they try to heat it in the winter, it will probably sweat badly. You would need a solid surface like plastic sheeting, and vinyl tape. Some builders actually do steel roofs with fiberglass touching the roofing. Like you, I personally wouldn't recommend it, but they do it anyway.
The best way, is a solid moisture barrier on the inside, and at least a 1/2" air gap from the insulation to the metal roofing to allow air to flow and prevent the moisture build up.
OP post date 6-Feb-2020. Fast forward to May 2022.
Did you find the Super77 held up so far?
Have you had any problems with not applying a moisture barrier (double bubble radiant for example) first?
Thanks for the time to produce and post this video. Super helpful!
MOLD AND RUST HAVE ENTERED THE CHAT.
That method will not work where I live. Could be fine where he is, I don’t know.
I was just going to say I haven't noticed if you've looked at your insulation or anything but keep an eye on it because these buildings have a tendency to sweat a lot when it gets hot and cold and I was either told to use a mineral wool insulation or spray foam mineral wool is very highly water repellent they told me if I used regular insulation it was orbit like a sponge and eventually mold mineral will not mold but I was just going to say keep an eye out on it love your videos keep doing them
Next years video, how to remove moldy insulation.
I was curious about condensation and possible mold. I was gonna ask, if he needed to place a barrier on first, before insulation.
Yeah i was wonder where his vapor barrier was. Mold coming his way
I think a closed cell foam would be best applied directly to the metal. Otherwise as you stated....beware mold.
jjs777fzr thank you. We agree mold will be a issue. Alternatives could include closed cell foam. Personally, I prefer a vapor barrier.
They make insulation that's made for metal walls. This isn't that stuff is for wood frame house.
Im in the process of insulating my shop now. Im using just a simple radiant barrier with a lower r-value (I think r9) One side is white the other is reflective. This looks like it worked for you, I was concerned about the moisture barrier.
Yea, I'm doing a install now on mine with foam board .. trying to decide if I need an air gap or can I just glue it flat against the metal sheeting ? Any ideas ?
@@gbii8101 Flat is fine. Cheers!
@@gbii8101 Air gap.
My shop is made the same way. Carport material. Very happy with it besides the spacing between the bracing. Made it extremely difficult to insulate and put walls up. All my vertical framing is between 52" and 59" apart so everything is off. I don't know why they didn't do 48" centers. If I knew then what I know now, I would've paid more to get the framing on 48" centers. Putting up r13 and 4x8 thermostat insulation has be a nightmare. Also my doors are the storage unit type roll up. I ordered extra large doors and spent thousands on them so I'm stuck with them for now. My advice, do not order roll up doors from the building company. Have your local garage door company put up nice rail type doors that fit tight against the frame and closes the air gap like you did. I spent over 50k on my building with no insulation, wiring, nothing. But I have 2k sqft. It's taken me 2 yrs to get the electrical done and now working on insulation/walls. Me being one person, it's hard work. But I've saved a ton doing it myself. Foam insulation just for the roof they quoted $6500. That's insane. I did r13 fiberglass on the walls and I'm doing bubble radiant barrier for the roof. Today I'm working on the mini split. Been weeks and still don't have it in. Going into winter and want heat so that's my goal the next few days.
Sorry to do this but as a word of caution to viewers who might choose to follow your directions, I have to rain on your parade. You are in a cold climate, the steel skin of your building is a vapor barrier and you are going to have condensation issues when water vapor reaches the metal. That is not a question of if but of how soon. How do I know? I do this for a living and know from experience (and building science) that fiber insulation just doesn’t work in this type of structure. You need an insulation system that prevents vapor from reaching cold surfaces and in reality that means closed cell spray foam. Yes, spray foam is more money up front but it works. If you continue down the path you are on now, you will end up ripping out your drywall and starting over.
Torsten Hansen no worries appreciate the insight. I’m actually going to do a vapor barrier when I put drywall up
Torsten Hansen Do you think adding a vapor barrier to the metal first using spray adhesive then adding insulation would be a good idea?
DIY BOSS, in short - no. As I described in my original comment, the exterior vapor barrier (the steel) in combination with permeable insulation is the problem and adding another one will have no effect at all. The only way to insulate your building properly is to use an air- and vapor impermeable insulation system (i.e. closed cell spray foam) that will keep moisture from reaching the steel in the first place. Adding an additional interior vapor barrier between the drywall and the insulation is not a good idea either as it will create a system that will be unable to dry out in any direction.
So the ONLY way to insulate a metal building is spray foam? Why do the metal building companies use a bubble wrap type insulation then?
@@torstenhansen4308 I'm actually in the process of buying one similar "I think" and an worried about insulation as I work with epoxy.. so I need warmth and a finished interior.. Soo the company suggested that bubble wrap stuff. That's what they use on the ceilings. Why wouldn't that work
Hey man looking sweet. Not sure what you got planned for hanging drywall but I was gonna mention using that bubble foil as a vapor barrier and then run 1x4 perpendicular to the metal on 16 inch centers then hang the drywall. The air gap will make that fool work better it’s amazing how much radiant heat can be reflected back into a place.
Eddy Goodwin thanks I appreciate it! And yeah I gotta put some vapor barrier up for sure and then drywall. But yeah that’s a good idea too I thought about doing that to mount the drywall to
Thanks for all the information from EVERYONE, this will save me a ton of trouble down the road. At least if this guy lives in New England, there's so little humidity year round, they'd be fine.
its been a year, peel back a piece of insulation from the roof paneling so you and the rest of us can see if theres been any moisture issues up there!
Well, he can't because it's already been recorded.its not live.
From experience with my own shop here in South Georgia, not worried so much with cold but triple digit temps in the summer, insulating that door will be worth every min. spent with it and its cheap and easy
I used 3/4 inch foam faced with radiant barrier. Looks much nicer and if it for any reason gets wet its no issue.
I'm looking at this option right now. Did you install with an air gap? I see guys using 1x2 furring strips to create the air gap. How did you install and what would you do differently if doing again?
@@michaelking42 Any Air gap is just a place to lose heat. The foam board bends quit a bit and will bend and snap into the door frame.
@@jaybabcock4557 an airgap is required for a thermal bridge to take place. The heat reflects off the radiant barrier. It's also good to have a gap to stop moisture and condensation issues.
People do not do this the way they are ! You must put styrofoam or something between the metal and insulation because it is going to sweat and will mold terrible !
What would be the best way to insulate a metal building like this?
@@markm6444 Insulate from outside.
@@motopripravky what do you mean?
Nice, my building will be installed February,March 2021 in north Floridabut going to put something up ,Thanks
Thanks and that’s awesome hope it turns out good!
This will be a rusted out wreck in no time, lol.
Yup, I used a double sided foam board with glued standoffs one inch from the metal, and then did this with the fiber insulation. This way I have a heat barrier and a vapor barrier to prevent rust and mold.
@@richarddziadekHow is that method working for you so far?
Great!
@@arkansasboy45
I do not understand why so many people think you will have mold issues. I assume you live in Michigan or Indiana (colder regions). The faced insulation is a vapor barrier. A vapor barrier needs to be facing the warm side (which is the inside). I am literally doing the same thing and using osb for the walls and everything is working just fine. I do have a vented suspended heater along with a thru wall AC unit. That, I am sure, will help keep the interior dry. This is literally how people have been insulating old pole barns for decades... All you have to do is control the moisture. You do that by installing a vented heater and have AC or a dehumidifier. Do not use a heater that is not vented. That will cause moisture in the inside.
wood pole barns dont sweat like steel does lol
We have used furring strips, batten boards, and pipe support straps to hold insulation in place.
I would have never thought gluing to ceiling would work
Not to be negative.. but I don’t think it will for very long with simple spray adhesive like that. I would be surprised if this installation was still holding up. Adhesive is probably failing or failed.
Great job.
I think I'm convinced about getting a metal garage now.
Gary Haber thank you!! Smart choice hahaha hope it turns out awesome!
I'd like to see it when you get done with the drywall. Good Job.
sonja creech thank you!
Same here I seen the other video u reviewing it.. and im.doing this year .. but i like to see drywalling ..os.already looking good im.already visualizing me working in it.. good job
Awesome, great to see young lads working hard. Watching this because I got a little shed that needs insulation.. my house would fit in your garage, 😂 but well done..
Staffy haha thank you I appreciate that! Hopefully the video helps with your install!
CONDENSATION!!!!!
Better rip down now and do right or you can tear rusted out garage later. Hopefully after you have recovered from the lung infection from the mold.
Not to mention the electrical code violation (No sub panel)
My 400sqft tree/playhouse even has a sub panel ..and I did a 1½ gap between my tin roof and the vapor barrier like a bubble wrap foil stuff .. then the r 19 .. live and learn
@@TopNotchTile Thats the RIGHT STUFF to use -- Bubble Wrap Foil Insulation..
Good luck in the future with moisture between the metal and fiberglass. I hope you don't get the rust that I got from using fiberglass.
Hope you felt the warmth difference , both last winter and many to come .
You can never have too many outlets or enough power . 110 is good but have at least one 220 is better.
heartland96a thank you! And yes I agree hahaha
Looks great can you post the finished product I am looking to do the same work and trying to get some ideas
Love the craftsmanship take care brother
really impressed with the glue and the speed. great job
This is going to be just fine and last a long time. Seen it this way in many old metal buildings.
I love your shop, you guys did an amazing job on it
David Edmiston thank you!!
what about condensation? Has the insulation fallen down due to getting wet.
No not getting wet but glue stated to fail in the heat
There are only two types of adhesives: 1) Those which have failed and 2) those which will fail. This spray stuff is a legitimate tool for securing the batts in place, but they shouldn't be relied as a permanent means of fixing them to the structure. Personally, I'd use this method in combination with a thin stud wall. Good video.
I wonder if you could get that in like a non-aerosol application with a weed sprayer or something cuz that looks like it'll be super helpful on the ceiling
Any condensation issues? I'm looking into insulating my metal building but I was leaning toward closed cell spray foam which is more expensive.
I went closed spray foam and 99% of where I covered, has stopped condensation. Where I sprayed thin, it still condensates. Waiting til summer to RE-spray again. Also, I ran out after underestimating how much spray foam I would need so make sure you get more than you think you'll need.
Very good preparation and information,would have been nice to have scaffolding
Thanks!
please add plastic as a vapor barrier... i think if you are heating and creating moisture that will be important to keep that fiberglass from mold. Also... for a garage, I'd use OSB for walls as it is so easy to hang all kinds of stuff on wood ... also if you need to get in the wall... a few screws and you can remove a sheet easily.
I need to do this exact same thing. Please make sure to post how you walled it up.
If you were a female, well you know what I mean. If you built a taller garage (or twice the size), would you have done this yourself? What about trapped heat and or moisture on the metal structure? How are you preventing this and or water damage? Thanks!
You can get trim from a metal roof place that will seal those gaps where the metal meets. Check them out so you seal it from bugs and stuff
Racker okay thanks!
Retitle.. HOW NOT TO INSULATE A METAL GARAGE
The kraft paper with the asphalt coating on insulation is the vapor barrier, see it paper side out in crawlspaces and metal garages all the time. Turn it over before you continue.
Did you ever finish it up with plywood or Sheetrock? I don't see a problem with moisture myself.. The insulation should stop the condensation, since the temperature is going to slowly change between shop temp and into the insulation before getting to the outside metal sheeting.. But, we are curious to know how it is going after the time.. If you have time to do another video, go for it.. Something else to consider down the road for me.. I have never had in floor heating, but, it just makes sense to me and I built a Oil Burner that will do a nice job warming things up, ground up.. Thanks.. Nice shop/Garage.. Commented about using Silicone on the other video before I saw you had done it... You can drop some landscape fabric and gravel around the outside to stop the dirt splashing up.. Cheers!!
Thank you! No I didn’t ever end up putting walls up and I actually took the insulation down because the glue was failing and falling down. Gonna spray foam next I think. In floor heating would be awesome
Looks amazing bro, I like it
Consider using FRP panels like in public restrooms as the wall board? It's cheap, looks good and is water proof.
Josh Costa solid idea! But there over double the price of drywall or plywood unfortunately
From one Coffey to another great job
Where Coffey Customs in east KY
Wow man that’s awesome and thanks for sharing. 👍🏼👍🏼
I personally would’ve used foam insulation board. This will mold & create spores smfh.
Much concerned about air space between metal and insulation. Feel there will be moisture problems. in the future.
I dont know what you are using this building for but I am waiting on my building to be delivered and they highly recommended the double bubble... that metal condensates.. after double bubble, frame and then do the pink insulation
Looking forward to seeing drywall. Im having a similar building installed in the south. Looks good! I'm adding the double bubble "insulation" more for a vapor barrier as well.
Nicolas Smith thank you! And yeah I’m hoping to get it done sooner than later haha and yeah down south you need that!
Place in georgia makes insulation with vapor barrier , insulation and white backing custom made into rolls same width as the rafters. 5ft. I am glad a watched this video. 3 m glue is a great idea.
SouthernRC thank you!
SouthernRC interested in linking up with 5ft insulation supplier . wm
That double bubble is some pretty awesome stuff I never payed too much attention to it until recently. It is a good product makes a huge difference.
Planning on doing the same to my shed in florida, what kind of glue did you use
Thanks for the nice informative video. Any problems with sweating or anything? Thanks
What about condensation behind the insulation is there any
In the process of deciding what type of garage to go with. Like what you have done here. What company did you order from and what are you going to finish over the insulation with? Looks really good!
Justin French thanks! Carport central if you watch my other garage video I review it and you can see everything about it and make your decision. And I think drywall but there’s a chance I use plywood but I’m gonna post a video when I do it too
If going sheet rock maybe use the green stuff that's for damp areas... less likely to mold...
I recommend not using a paper faced sheet rock. Eventually you will get some minor leaks if the siding is screwed on like my pole barn. Paper will attract mold.
Troy eager I think I’m actually going to do plywood for that reason and if it shifts it won’t crack
What size is that shed? Thanks
I want to see it drywalled! I'm about to buy one of these buildings and do the same thing. Please show some drywall footage!
I didn’t end up dry walling it
@@YamRida468 Hey friend ~ Not trying to give you a hard time, but I'm curious did you experience any kind of mold and or rust? I noticed in the comments everyone carrying on about some type of vapor barrier needed. Thanks ✌
@@123keepitsimple97 nope! No issues
@@YamRida468 Awesome thank you
@@123keepitsimple97 don’t believe that. He definitely have mold that’s why he didn’t put up the drywall. He probably changed his mind & ripped that shit out lol 😂
what about the big door?
It’s insulated from the factory
If you wanted more than R-13 what would you recommend . I am planning on making a living space out of one one of these buildings .
Spray foam
came out good. I have the same type of garage and was told if i was going to heat it i couldnt use that type of insulation because the metal will get moist and mold the insulation. Let me know how it works for you when you heat it im looking to insulate mine
shawn gee thanks! Let’s hope that’s not the case for me hahaha but yeah I’ll let ya know
@@YamRida468 cool thanks man i hope it all works out nice for ya
shawn gee thanks man!
Yes it can especially in the northern climates. Hope you don’t try to heat it with propane. Every gallon on propane burned puts 1 gallon of water into the air. So it will have way higher humidity then out. Moisture moves from warm to cold. So it will drive the vapor through the fiberglass and then Condensate when it hits the metal. The best type of insulation for a metal building like this is closed cell foam.
Coffey's Garage he’s correct. When the warm air inside the building reaches the cold metal walls, condensation will form on the inside of your walls. That will soak the fiberglass, reducing its effectiveness and causing mold and/or mildew. You should have used insulation with a vinyl backing that stops the warm air from reaching the metal. The exposed studs would need a vapor barrier as well, or condensation will form on those, saturating your drywall when that’s installed. This is why people use closed cell spray foam to insulate these buildings. I’ll post a link to an article about it. Hopefully you can do something to prevent these problems. Good luck.
www.whirlwindsteel.com/blog/bid/238023/tips-to-prevent-condensation-in-metal-buildings
What size is that.
After the insulation how's the temperature 🌡️🤒 like during summer 🌞⛱️?
The only problem i see is there is no venting for the roof. it will rust under the insulation.
Hi mate. Great video! Have you had any issues with condensation? I've a 40x13ft to put up and looking for insulation as I had to leave my other (uninsulated) shed for 6 months during lockdown. Checked on it the other day and it was pooling with condensation. Luckily what I had stored was covered anyway but it did leave a puddle in a few areas and a very wet roof
Thank you! And no I really haven’t but also haven’t been running my heat out there either so I’m not sure
@@ed1658
My thoughts exactly.
When it's hot outside and cool inside...then your walls wills sweat!
Also what impact would thermal bridging have?
@Ed; Also the other way around, colder outside-warmer inside. My metal shed is 12x25, currently uninsulated and unheated, formed condensation on the ceiling due to snow on the roof. Even though the 'air' temp diff wasn't that far off, the snow on the roof kept the ceiling side of the metal panel at freezing and it sweat and dripped. Even if I insulate this spring will the insulation prevent sweating between the insulation and metal panels (walls or ceiling)?
I think your installation went pretty well and it looks good. I think over time, glue will not be enough to hold the ceiling panels in place. I’ve seen other installations where the that insulation starts to sag And separate. The price, less than $1000, is excellent.
Aren’t you pretty much creating a cavity for mold growth? What happens when the building sweats? There is no ventilation!
Hi nice video. Love the garage. So I'm currently extending my welding shop and I have been a approved by my city to add an additional 20x24ft garage. So I'm looking for something like yours. What company is your shop from? Ty
I'd love to know how much insulation and spray adhesive you went through, so I'll know how much to buy. Thank you.
Interceptor2500 it ended up being 6 cans of adhesive if I remember right. And it was 3 master bags of insulation. The ceiling insulation has fell in a few spots from the temp changes and the wind coming thru the top but I’ll put it back up when I do the ceiling
How about a 3 year update? Have you figured out yet this wasn't the right insulation type for a sweating metal building???
How do you like the door over a rool up door I'm doing a 16/8 door on mine I like your opener there...
Love it!!
Oh man! This is a terrible idea! Your insulation will get moldy real quick. The vapor barrier will just trap moisture in between the steel and insulation.
exactly what I was thinking
So what is the solution to insulating these metal buildings? I need to know.
You have no idea what you are talking about. Let me guess, you would suggest a vapor barrier on the outside and inside, am I right? That would cause mold for sure since you would have double vapor barriers that would trap moisture in the middle.. This is the correct way to insulate a pole barn and they have been doing it this way forever.. Just need to make sure the heater is vented and have a dehumidifier or AC unit removing moisture. No different than a house except a house will have way more moisture inside than this garage will ever have.
You're planning on sheetrock, right?
Always hated the look of paperback insulation,looks so much better when imperfections are hidden.
Looks good, did you do drywall yet, what do you plan to put on ceiling?
No I didn’t, gonna spray foam I think
Awesome work Dudes!!!
If you glue standard batts to the metal walls then dry wall over, what will happen if there is a leak from the outside? Will it not rot, as there is no vapour barrier, no gap to breathe?!
I just had a 30x36 one built. I prefer not to have it spray foamed, like this idea much better!!..Need a carpenter first, then electrical done before I reach this stage.
..thanks for your guidance!!
This building is not going to hold heat because the studs aren't insulated
That is a great job.
Thank you!
Lesson to be learned here, do some research before spending your money, and ending up with a total loss of the funds .
Ya can't do a video like this without a montage, good call.
Well you added a whole bunch more insulation on that ceiling than you should have. Follow the trusses on the angle of the roof. No need to do the sidewalls above 8' There has to be some kind of venting or that stuff is going to be a mess in just 2 years.
Hi looks awsome I'm looking to purchase a similar garage. I live in west Central Alberta Canada. I do garage doors for work (16 years) I will be insulating and sheeting my garage with overhead door packaging panels completely free. Just a tip you should lower your lock on your door I know it says that in the instructions but it's almost pointless if you are able to lift it 3 inches they will be able to get in.
Where’s the update video. Let’s goooo this was really great.
Why are there no answers to any questions regarding mold, rust or sweating? I am having one of these put up and I know they condensate, so I am looking for the best way to insulate that doesn't cost a fortune.
Styrofoam can be cut to order so it fits snug between the studs.
Do you have a contact for that?
Yea, probably should have had a moisture barrier still.. before using the other insulation. Wonder how well this is holding up after 2 years
Not to be a hater, but That metal will sweat, and that batting is going to start sagging.
What size garage did you go with? Great video - thanks for sharing!
So this works for steel storage sheds also I assume? It’s very similar.
No
Thank you for this video.
Definitely keen to see you put up the dry wall.
So you routed all the electric cable behind the insulation?
Jordan Von Buse thanks and yeah
Hey man have you had any issues with this? Looking at doing this in my garage too.
There has to be a air gap of at least 2cm to prevent condensation and mould
Great job man 👍
Tommy FORBIDDEN thank you!
What kind of windows did you use? Just standard windows? Thanks!
Looks good as hell
Jem Reyes thanks! 🤙🏼
Are you worried about condensation being a metal building
Wheres the next video with the drywall?
Do you recommend 2 garage doors or 1 ?
I'm in the process of ordering a 20x25, I like the look of a single garage door.
I should ask for a single garage door.
Theres so many options!
I'm so stressed.
🥵
Gary Haber hopefully coming soon haha been a crazy summer! I would go with one if you can and make it wide like I did. Two is cool but then you always have a pillar in the middle and that would get annoying trying to avoid
@@YamRida468 my thoughts exactly. I have a deposit on a 2 door garage. I should change it before its fabrication is done.
I like the regular garage door with the rails too.
👍
Gary Haber yeah I recommend the one for sure! And aftermarket I like because it’s power instead of roll up
@@YamRida468 ordered mine today.
20x25 with a 14 x 7 door, going to buy one of those 4 piece roll doors with the rails/opener.
Hate those mini storage type of doors.
👍👍 thanks bud.
Looking forward to watching the next vid.
Gary Haber congrats man you’ll love it! And I’ve been slacking a little but I have some coming soon! Thanks for the support!
What about the condensation? Be carful... it will cause A LOT of damage. Especially in the cold climate - contractor in Maine
Jason James yeah gonna do a vapor barrier
@@YamRida468 exterior? What do you use?
@@YamRida468 start tearing out the insulation now if your doing a vapor barrier!! And a true vapor barrier includes something between the studs and walls as well. Your BULLSHIT METAL BUILDING PEOPLE should have told you all this when they where selling you the building. They should have gave you the option of buying some sort of barrier material. It’s not your fault because you probably didn’t know but this is how these sham metal building company’s sell product. Unless you opted out the insulation they where offering then that’s another story! Good luck is all I can say! Proper insulation for a metal building can get very expensive and people don’t realize it till it’s too late 😩😩😩
Dude....there is going to be SOOO MUCH MOLD
Have you had any mold or moisture issues since installing the batting insulation?
Nope!