To answer Alot of your questions up front....since installation I have recorded a difference of about 10 degrees cooler inside on hot days . Which is effectively a 20-30 degree drop from what it would be without the insulation since the radiant heat would have caused it to actually be much HOTTER inside than outside on hot sunny days. I've also noticed about 10 degrees warmer on cold days. (This is with no conditioning) - No I am not relying solely on double sided tape to hold this up, near the end of the video you will see that I also added staples and screws! - One afterthought is to also use small L brackets to secure the wood strips to the frame. - I have 0 condensation issues since installing this! - Also, yes many of you say spray foam is better and of course you are probably right....but it's more expensive ...and this works for me! - I have since conditioned the space and achieve very comfortable working conditions (75° inside vs 98° outside) with this combination at a price I could afford! Stay tuned! Thanks for watching!
Put some "real" insulation in that building and do some testing. I have compared both ways and the foil bubble sheet is basically useless, and a waste of money. But, if you feel this is the best use of your money, then by all means, go for it. Cheers!
I can send you our thermal treatment (like paint) maybe you can use it and give us a honest review, we are bringing it to USA in the next couple months and its even Waaaayyy cheaper than all that you did, what do you think? I am at Nevada.
@@PatriotDIY Sorry to disagree, but i have done my own testing and the bubble stuff basically does nothing. The R-value (thickness) of the insulation is ALL that matters and the bubble stuff has very little. R-value means insulating the cold from the hot - the thicker, the better . . period. A 1/4" thick piece of insulation is worthless. But, if you feel it works for you, i am happy for you :)
@@outdoorzee919 lol well I don't know anything about your testing ....all I can tell you is that my shop is consistently 10 degrees cooler than outside temp on hot sunny days and 10 degrees warmer on cold days. I've documented it in video on my Facebook page facebook.com/PatriotDIY You are welcome to disagree and do something different if you choose and no doubt there are better and more expensive insulators, but all I can do is show you what I did and report my results!! Thanks for watching 😉
@@VanillaAttila Figure about 1/3rd more which seems quite expensive until you consider the possibility of a high wind condition taking that new building out with all your equipment inside. If a panel rusts out, how much will that cost for replacement? With closed-cell insulation, you can more easily cool and heat without moisture buildup at the interior metal surface. Even an inch will do the trick.
@@Cspacecat That's what the aircgap behind the bubble wrap does. As far as building blowing away, if you're counting on closed foam isulation instead of positive hurricane tie-downs holding frame to ground, good luck!
I wrapped my cabin Graceland shed entirely with Reflectix. Excellent results.over 100 outside hear index 114F and inside the cabin was 74F. Awesome system. The dead airspace is essential.
Thank you for making this video. So many great takeaways. My wife and I did a similar project with similar materials, and watched this video many, many times before starting it! We used the wood strips to create an airgap, and double-sided tape. I ended up using construction adhesive for the remaining walls because we ran out of the tape about 3/4 of the way to completion. So far ours is holding up, but we need to add more vapor barrier tape on the edges. Thank you for your content!
My first thought was, "well, isn't the metal exterior acting like a radiant barrier already?". I read up on it prior to watching the video and realized I was wrong. Great install and great details in this video!! Thanks for putting out quality content.
Exactly what I thought when I initially put up my roofs. Then I found out that the metal actually radiates from both sides and the energy from the sun is actually being radiated inwards by the metal panels. I was shocked to learn that this made the inside of the building even hotter than it was outside.
Great job! You are correct about the air gaps and it actually provides an increased r-value. We used foil faced foam board in ours with an air gap, supporting the ceiling boards with a non-conventional method. Has worked very well.
@Jim Cole I am sorry I am not able to visualize your non-conventional method. If you don't mind, could you please elaborate? Or any video or website that shows your method? Thanks in advance. Merry Christmas
@@goodingwashington6099 I will be posting a video of the install when I'm done with the building. 'Will be in Spring/Summer of 2022. Merry Christmas to you as well!
@@jimcole6423 It's about summer of 2023 now...Still not too late to upload those videos if you're still hanging around youtube. It will be greatly appreciated to see how you did yours. Thanks!
Really effective way .only a person without knowledge of thermodynamics would disagree. Very good video. I have used it in three of my buildings in last three months. In hot sunny season its really very very good.
I watched about 15 videos of how to insulate a metal building, each with a different method and different materials. And everyone thinks what they did is best. It’s hard for a diy guy like me to decide what to do… Thanks for posting.
What I did worked and is holding up well with 0 issues to date. The only thing I'd change is after putting up the wood strips with construction adhesive... I would also install some small L brackets holding to the stud for a "Just in case" scenario
Judge by the temperature difference in each case and apply that to what your expectations are. As he stated in this video, the R value is low, but it helps to block, or cut down the radiant heat from the sun heated metal.
Really appreciate this video. I decided to go with the Prodex 10M Total plus insulation that looks like yours and has equal radiant barrier, but it has R22 value and built in Class 1 vapor barrier at at little less than 1/2” thick. The saving compared to closed cell spray foam was about 75%. You did a great job with your installation technique as well as the one where you sealed the bottom of the metal tubing against the concrete with silicone. Thanks again!!
I did something similar with foil backed foam board. But I was able to fit it in from inside . But I would see how putting it in from outside would be easier in some cases .
I don't know why TH-cam decided I needed to see this, but the algorithms worked in my favor today. I'll be doing this in my shop next week! Thanks for the info.
Thanks for your video! I just found out about the double bubble insulation today. I immediately called my building guy and added it to my 26x40 metal building (concrete forms start in 3 days). I was quoted $2400 which I feel is a bargain. It’s WAY BETTER TO HAVE THIS DONE BEFORE the sheet metal goes on.
I have a metal building that is insulated the traditional way like your video showed at the beginning. It would always be hotter inside the building because the beams would get hot from the roof, and the insulation would hold the heat in. It would get extremely hot inside to the point it was unusable when it got hot outside. I put the Henry cool roof coating on the roof from Home Depot, and it’s like night and day. It went from always being hotter inside to always being cooler inside. One thing though, I have a 15 foot carport extension on one side of the building, it is not insulated like the main building, you can see the underside of the roof in the carport. I also put the cool roof coating on the roof over the carport, and it now rains in the carport do to the extreme condensation that occurs in certain conditions when it’s cool at night and warms up quick in the morning. The warm moist air contacts the underside of the “cool” roof, and extreme condensation occurs, I’m thinking I somehow need to insulate the underside of the roof in that area.
I was thinking about putting that same roof coating on my metal building. My building is not insulated. Do you think if I put that coating on my roof that I would have the same problem that you are having with your carport section? Also, which Henry products did you use? The $100 for 5 gallon bucket or the $400 for 5 gallon bucket stuff?
It LOOKS GREAT! Well done! This has made me rethink what I might do to my 'bus' conversion! Thank you for showing all the steps and providing the links. Two thumbs up and five stars, young man, from this old patriot! :)
As I’m getting ready to convert a bus, and live in the high desert, may I ask if you’ve thought any more about this and have you done it? If so, how well does it work (or are you still in the planning stages)?
Finally someone that can walk chew gum and show actually how to do something without having to know the name of your pets your grandma your great grandma and your fourth cousin removed
Back in 1979 I bought a brand new van and sometime in January me and five friends decided to go to Harriman State Park and camp out overnight in this metal box well all I have to say is that without insulation a metal box can get so cold if the wind is blowing that you can freeze to death pretty quickly I remember pouring a glass of water and watching it freeze within 4 seconds so obviously it's not just heat that it comes amplified.
Nice job, love the clean look inside. I’m patiently waiting for my 24x36 metal garage to arrive. I will certainly be following along with your tips on your channel.
@@Gokywildcats11 hello, I ordered thru Viking Steel Structures which is a dealer for Carolina car ports. I’ve had my building for a couple years now and I’m very happy with it. I ended up paying for their insulation package for the walls and ceiling which is only plastic foam board that is about a half inch thick that is installed between frame and walls. The cost was almost 13k for everything except concrete.
The exterior color and proper roof coatings can also be a lot of help with temperature and moisture and longevity of the structure. Good luck to you and your channel.
"- I have 0 condensation issues since installing this! " this is my biggest concern with my new building so I'm going to be installing this as per your instructions! moisture in a building like this can rust tools and cause mold inside cars QUICK!!
I did this to my metal building. The trusses in the winter (45 degree Temp) water droplets formed and dropped on floor after we turned on some electric heat. Same in the summer when I ran ac while painting. In the winter I could here the droplets dropping on the triple bubble shield and draining to the eves. My building 60x40 with 14' eves, 20 ' to peak. I lived in my rv inside building for 2 years before installing the vapor barrier triple bubble. So I know I had no roof leaks after build. I put the vapor barrier in 40x20 living area. I now will be removing the vapor barrier triple bubble and the wood framing. I will have closed cell foam 3" thick R factor 18 and they will flash coat top truss run. Good luck on yours.$2000.00 on foam and $4000.00 on vapor barrier, supplies and labor to install and labor to take off.
thanks so much your instructions worked well. Building is finished - double bubble- in a 400 sq ft 12 foot high metal building. It took me about a week .. your instructions - and no help from anyone.
Nice clean looking job! You left space between the metal and the insulation giving air a place to move instead of condense. Is it possible to connect the wall space cavity to the ceiling space cavity and then vent out in the peak? Also to accomplish this, small vents could be made at the base of each wall cavity. I've found that moving air will dissipate the moisture and reduce the condensation. Air should rise naturally to the peak and vent out moisture....just thinking. Any opinions on this? At minimum, vent the roof.
@@jeffreyparker130 not instead of but in addition to. I would add as many mechanical fasteners as possible. Screws, staples, wood batons, wire etc… anything to keep it from sagging in a couple years.
I am wondering why you didn't attach the furring strips to the front of metal studs and cover the wall studs and ceiling rafters with the insulation? Those metal studs transmit a lot of heat and cold. It would also give you a larger air gap and prevent the insulation from touching the wall metal in between the furring strips.
I am skeptical about that insulation on the ceiling. Just so many people that have it installed have the double stick tape undo and it drops and looks very bad. My wife and I opted for spray foam. It doesn't look as pretty but it does the job and actually helps structurally as well. Seeing you are going to do some fishing touches inside and you used staples as well as the double-sided tape on the walls that looks pretty interesting. The double bubble does give a much cleaner look when it is done and if done right may not be a problem in the future. Very nice video.
i have a similar building. I couldn't afford the insulation at the time of build ($10,000) so i decided to do it later. i like the idea of yours to do it this way. But i have been thinking the metal attached to the metal studs do draw heat and if that beam could be insulated with like a cover of foam board it would help drop the inside temps as well. thanks for posting
i have seen people do the insulation later on and they eventually found it alot faster to just remove the roof panels and install radiant barrier inbetween the sheets . took a week to do cause of limited time cause of 12 hrs job shifts. I may do the same thing on mine
The flags do look GREAT!!! Bravo!!! I'd suggest at least one or two more: (1) the 15 star-15 stripe "Star Spangled Banner" of Fort McHenry and (2) the Grand Union flag -- 13 stripes + the Union Jack which was used for about 1-2 yrs by the American forces before the 13 star Betsy Ross Flag was adopted on June 15, 1777. And of course, noting that you're in NC, you should definitely add the Battle of Guilford Court House Flag.
Nice video! I have a similar building. Put up sheets of styrofoam, held them up with furring strips on the outside of the foam, attached to the steel beams. Been working, however, I now see a mistake. I have them directly touching the walls/ceiling. One thing I've noticed, the condensation still forms on the beams, drips off of them. Hopefully you won't have that issue. Oh, you just got a subscriber!
@@PatriotDIY hey man i be fixing to be doing mines to. How long ago did u do yo video? What I be done be sayin is I be wantin to do mines just like u be done did in da video brotha. Could u let me know how long ago u be done did it? Thanks brotha
That looks like a great option. I've seen several folks have this double bubble stuff turn to almost a dust and start falling apart. Hope yours holds together!
I have a similar building, 2 car garage here in Fl. I haven't bothered insulating it because I just keep my truck and lawn equipment out there, I dont use it as a workshop or anything. I think you may have continual issues with moisture building up inside if you cover it with wood like you said, even with insulation. I would put some vents down by the floor, and up near the ceiling to allow for some air flow to keep moisture to a minimum.
Great video. As a fellow insulator I’m always curious to see what my southern friends are doing about this radiant heat. I typically see spray foam installed as it provides a air tight envelope, but I’ve heard great things on this foil product in hot climates.
What happens during the winter? Do you know if the warmer building air in the winter causes any condensation between the foil insulation and the metal roof. If so, does this cause a mold issue?
In this installation, there isn't anything to support mold, in the ceiling. The furring strips in the walls could support mold. Mold and fungus require organic material to "feed" on, not metal, nor synthetics. Rust could be an issue, though, if condensation develops.
Great video thank you. I did exactly what you did and I too put screws in the roof because as soon as it started getting hot out that tape was giving way 👍
Now that you've had this insulation up for awhile, how well do you find that it is working? For both the heat and the cold. I'm in the southeast also and am about to put up a metal building and am currently weighing my options for insulation.
Usually it’ll be about 10 degrees less inside than what it is outside. The main owner for most of the metal warehouses out here uses the same material and being Arizona it’s definitely a must. I’m getting my garage done today with the same materials so it’s a life saver for sure.
@@IZA-611 Interesting. I have a small metal work shop, 12' x 16'. I installed an exhaust fan in the wall 6&1/2 feet above the floor. I put it on a thermostat set to turn it on at 80 degrees. That gets the building 10 to 15 degrees cooler than outside temps. I live in western NC. It's not desert but we've had temps this year often in the mid 90's.
@@KI-zj5tt is that with or without the insulation? I’ve been meaning to get something installed maybe a mini split but it’s pretty cool inside the shop now even without it
I love steel pole construction but that the only thing is it's a giant oven in the summer and the condensation especially in the winter when using a heater
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
The one thing I found out was cheaper hiring contractors was insulation and sheetrock install. They did the jobs cheaper than I could buy the raw materials for. Sometimes diy costs more than hiring.
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
Thanks down here in SW LA as you know we were hit with 2 hurricanes it took out my 35x35 shop and now finally getting a new one built in 6 weeks (prices skyrocketed) going back with a 30X50w/10ft wing insulating myself will save a lot of $. thanks for the video.
St. Bernard parish boy here. My 14x26 garage went up 2k in a week! I cannot find info from manufacturers that mention how they install the panels with proper airgap. It gets moist down here in da bayous. lol
Any construction adhesive will turn to dust over time. Literally...to dust. The heat from the radiant barrier will shorten this duration of time. VERY NICE install. 👍
Thanks for covering this topic. Could additional insulation be added to the building after the double bubble foil is installed? In Northern Minnesota winters get really cold. A high R-value could lessen the strain on the heaters.
Yeah use coroplast.....tape ends to make it closed cell.....all white would look good Plastic can burn but less flammable than other stuff if you want you can fireproof coat it....no necessary but you can
I had pros install the 4ft wide batting, plastic covered insulation. I'm having major inside condensation problems dripping on my machinery. Anyone else?
Do you have a ridge vent, soffit vents, or gable vents? I have Ridgid foam and reflective foil insulation, it's cut down a lot of condensation but I still get some when temps go below freezing. I started installing soffit vents but my ridge and gables are not vented yet.
Nice job. You have the ridge vent for the venting of the roof. But where is the hot air in the wall going ? How is it vented to the outside at the top of the wall ? Thx
Sorry to let you know that in several years you are going to regret your choice of material. It deteriorates into falling plastic particles. I have a pole barn that I am having to deal with that is about 15 years old.
Just good ole fiberglass insulation at the highest R-value you can put in the cavity, is the best, least expensive, and most effective/efficient option.
Thanks for this. Much cheaper than foam. I live in Texas. It gets 110+ degrees during summer and as you highlighted in your video, inside temps are much higher. I was curious how does the adhesive handle the heat? Thanks!
Thanks for video I was wondering how I was gonna do this I had a 30x40 put up I just had the builder to insulate the top So I’m gonna insulate the walls
Great video! It helped guide me how to proceed with my 12X16 metal building. I like the strips idea to maintain the moisture space. I'm using that idea. But my building has 2X4 framing with metal walls. I'm going to use 4X8 sheets of 2" polypro but cutting to fit in my 24" spaces between them. I'll screw the strips to the 2X4's then glue the cut insulation sheets to the strips and fill any cracks with "great stuff". (maybe a few screws to add more support). When insulated well, I'll consider paneling of some sort for my shed/workshop. Any suggestions/other ideas?
I'd give the job a 85. There's a heat gap at the roof peak that allows heat to exit. But it also allows dust and debris to get in. Covering that will allow whatever to get in (rain, dust, dirt, insects like wasp etc.) without being noticed. A hard side ways rain also.
For radiant heat emissivity is the aspect of insulation that is most critical. R value is most often based on absorption of energy not reflection of radiant heat.
I’ll bet that Liquid Nails doesn’t stay stuck to that metal very long. The expansion and contraction of the metal will cause the adhesive to let go especially with the weight of the insulation hanging from the 1x2s
I like it a lot. Your engineering talent and work ethic reminds me of me…more than a few years ago. Question: I wonder if the expansion and contraction of the steel siding will cause the two sided tape to loosen? Do you think applying the glue to the edge of the 1x2 and attaching it to the post would be worth consideration, because the steel posts are substantial and would flex very, very little if any thereby eliminating movement by the 1x2? That would still leave a sufficient air gap between the siding and the insulation.
That looked like a huge task, but looks like you’ve done a great job. The install looks very clean and tidy. Great vid! Thanx for posting, Patriot! Patriot from Vegas. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Great video. I am in the process of planning to put a 20’x30’ workshop up. Am looking at having the woven R-17 insulation on the ceiling and sides. I am in Western NC and hope I won’t have any moisture issues.
This stuff looks like it works great and it's relatively cheap. I think I would go back over the ceiling edges with another set of outside stringers just to make sure the ceiling double stick tape doesn't come loose from the heat over a bunch of years. I know u put in the staples but another strip on the outside would lock this stuff in. Maybe the same on the walls, especially on the sides directly exposed to the sun most of the year since there's plenty of room for them without protruding out past the steel uprights.
You should do a video on your shop, the size, cost and process of it. Lot of us considering building a shop and it's daunting trying to find who to use or costs involved. I've seen some shop install videos get a half million views so the more info the better. Great content, new subscriber here.
I was planning to do a shop build video but my cameras messed up and didnt film while it was being built so I had to scrap that video. Now just waiting to get it a little organized and get some stuff in it then I'll do a shop tour video and include some of the info you are talking about
I have 38k in a 28x48x12 with a 12x48 lean-to 6 windows 2 36 inch door 3 10x10 doors roof and lean too insulation. Pad is 47x40 with footer and rebar 35 yards of concrete . Yard is on a hill with a slant. It took 7 dump truck loads of sand clay one load of crushed concrete 6 trees removed 6 stumps grinded . The ground work was a extra 6k just getting ready for the pad in my case.
I just had a 24x40, 10 foot height vertical roof. 3 9ft wide 8ft tall roll up doors, on 36inch entry door. Bldg cost 13750. Slab with footings and smooth finish 6900.00
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To answer Alot of your questions up front....since installation I have recorded a difference of about 10 degrees cooler inside on hot days .
Which is effectively a 20-30 degree drop from what it would be without the insulation since the radiant heat would have caused it to actually be much HOTTER inside than outside on hot sunny days. I've also noticed about 10 degrees warmer on cold days. (This is with no conditioning)
- No I am not relying solely on double sided tape to hold this up, near the end of the video you will see that I also added staples and screws!
- One afterthought is to also use small L brackets to secure the wood strips to the frame.
- I have 0 condensation issues since installing this!
- Also, yes many of you say spray foam is better and of course you are probably right....but it's more expensive ...and this works for me!
- I have since conditioned the space and achieve very comfortable working conditions (75° inside vs 98° outside) with this combination at a price I could afford! Stay tuned!
Thanks for watching!
Put some "real" insulation in that building and do some testing. I have compared both ways and the foil bubble sheet is basically useless, and a waste of money. But, if you feel this is the best use of your money, then by all means, go for it. Cheers!
I can send you our thermal treatment (like paint) maybe you can use it and give us a honest review, we are bringing it to USA in the next couple months and its even Waaaayyy cheaper than all that you did, what do you think? I am at Nevada.
@@outdoorzee919 I wouldn't call a 20 degree reduction in internal temperature "useless" lol
@@PatriotDIY Sorry to disagree, but i have done my own testing and the bubble stuff basically does nothing. The R-value (thickness) of the insulation is ALL that matters and the bubble stuff has very little. R-value means insulating the cold from the hot - the thicker, the better . . period. A 1/4" thick piece of insulation is worthless. But, if you feel it works for you, i am happy for you :)
@@outdoorzee919 lol well I don't know anything about your testing ....all I can tell you is that my shop is consistently 10 degrees cooler than outside temp on hot sunny days and 10 degrees warmer on cold days. I've documented it in video on my Facebook page facebook.com/PatriotDIY
You are welcome to disagree and do something different if you choose and no doubt there are better and more expensive insulators, but all I can do is show you what I did and report my results!!
Thanks for watching 😉
Finally, someone posted a useful video on how to insulate a metal building.
Yes! Good job! Thanks!
Closed-cell foam would have made that building 3X stronger.
@@Cspacecat And cost 2x the price of the building probably lol
@@VanillaAttila Figure about 1/3rd more which seems quite expensive until you consider the possibility of a high wind condition taking that new building out with all your equipment inside. If a panel rusts out, how much will that cost for replacement? With closed-cell insulation, you can more easily cool and heat without moisture buildup at the interior metal surface. Even an inch will do the trick.
@@Cspacecat That's what the aircgap behind the bubble wrap does. As far as building blowing away, if you're counting on closed foam isulation instead of positive hurricane tie-downs holding frame to ground, good luck!
I wrapped my cabin Graceland shed entirely with Reflectix. Excellent results.over 100 outside hear index 114F and inside the cabin was 74F. Awesome system. The dead airspace is essential.
Thank you for making this video. So many great takeaways. My wife and I did a similar project with similar materials, and watched this video many, many times before starting it! We used the wood strips to create an airgap, and double-sided tape. I ended up using construction adhesive for the remaining walls because we ran out of the tape about 3/4 of the way to completion. So far ours is holding up, but we need to add more vapor barrier tape on the edges. Thank you for your content!
Great! Did you also use any staples or screws in addition to the tape? The tape is great but I wouldnt trust it 100%
Vapor barrier tape?
My first thought was, "well, isn't the metal exterior acting like a radiant barrier already?". I read up on it prior to watching the video and realized I was wrong. Great install and great details in this video!! Thanks for putting out quality content.
Exactly what I thought when I initially put up my roofs. Then I found out that the metal actually radiates from both sides and the energy from the sun is actually being radiated inwards by the metal panels. I was shocked to learn that this made the inside of the building even hotter than it was outside.
Great job! You are correct about the air gaps and it actually provides an increased r-value. We used foil faced foam board in ours with an air gap, supporting the ceiling boards with a non-conventional method. Has worked very well.
@Jim Cole I am sorry I am not able to visualize your non-conventional method. If you don't mind, could you please elaborate? Or any video or website that shows your method? Thanks in advance. Merry Christmas
@@goodingwashington6099 I will be posting a video of the install when I'm done with the building. 'Will be in Spring/Summer of 2022. Merry Christmas to you as well!
Thanks Jim Cole thats ironic
Why the air gap? Why is an air gap good? I have not heard a good explanation for an air gap. Thank you
@@jimcole6423 It's about summer of 2023 now...Still not too late to upload those videos if you're still hanging around youtube. It will be greatly appreciated to see how you did yours. Thanks!
GREAT video, just had a 24x26 garage building finished and now I know how to insulate it.
Really effective way .only a person without knowledge of thermodynamics would disagree. Very good video. I have used it in three of my buildings in last three months. In hot sunny season its really very very good.
I watched about 15 videos of how to insulate a metal building, each with a different method and different materials. And everyone thinks what they did is best. It’s hard for a diy guy like me to decide what to do… Thanks for posting.
What I did worked and is holding up well with 0 issues to date. The only thing I'd change is after putting up the wood strips with construction adhesive... I would also install some small L brackets holding to the stud for a "Just in case" scenario
Judge by the temperature difference in each case and apply that to what your expectations are. As he stated in this video, the R value is low, but it helps to block, or cut down the radiant heat from the sun heated metal.
I am looking at putting up a pole shed and had this question about insulation. Love the flags !!!
Really appreciate this video. I decided to go with the Prodex 10M Total plus insulation that looks like yours and has equal radiant barrier, but it has R22 value and built in Class 1 vapor barrier at at little less than 1/2” thick. The saving compared to closed cell spray foam was about 75%. You did a great job with your installation technique as well as the one where you sealed the bottom of the metal tubing against the concrete with silicone. Thanks again!!
Awesome! Sounds like you found some good stuff. Post a link for the followers!
Did you have any luck with the prodex
Looks like the 10m is only available with a dual silver face.
@@drewdoestrucks that’s correct
@@scottsteelman1303 is that weird? Did you leave it silver or cover it with something?
For the roof, use a solid type insulation and lay from rib to rib. My building allowed me to take off end cap and slide in from the end. works great.
I did something similar with foil backed foam board. But I was able to fit it in from inside . But I would see how putting it in from outside would be easier in some cases .
I don't know why TH-cam decided I needed to see this, but the algorithms worked in my favor today. I'll be doing this in my shop next week! Thanks for the info.
How many rolls did you use? Just sizing up
Thanks for your video! I just found out about the double bubble insulation today. I immediately called my building guy and added it to my 26x40 metal building (concrete forms start in 3 days). I was quoted $2400 which I feel is a bargain. It’s WAY BETTER TO HAVE THIS DONE BEFORE the sheet metal goes on.
I have a metal building that is insulated the traditional way like your video showed at the beginning. It would always be hotter inside the building because the beams would get hot from the roof, and the insulation would hold the heat in. It would get extremely hot inside to the point it was unusable when it got hot outside. I put the Henry cool roof coating on the roof from Home Depot, and it’s like night and day. It went from always being hotter inside to always being cooler inside. One thing though, I have a 15 foot carport extension on one side of the building, it is not insulated like the main building, you can see the underside of the roof in the carport. I also put the cool roof coating on the roof over the carport, and it now rains in the carport do to the extreme condensation that occurs in certain conditions when it’s cool at night and warms up quick in the morning. The warm moist air contacts the underside of the “cool” roof, and extreme condensation occurs, I’m thinking I somehow need to insulate the underside of the roof in that area.
I was thinking about putting that same roof coating on my metal building. My building is not insulated. Do you think if I put that coating on my roof that I would have the same problem that you are having with your carport section? Also, which Henry products did you use? The $100 for 5 gallon bucket or the $400 for 5 gallon bucket stuff?
@@russgould707 when one is preventive maintenance and the other makes the paint weak with sun rays
I would like to echo other comments thank you for this our metal building is being installed today.
The flags are an awesome touch!
Only one missing is a Confederate one UNLESS his N.C. flag is the State CSA flag
Thanks for giving the how to. Most folks just say attach it and you're done.
This is amazing show and tell. I am so grateful to you. I might do this for my metal building as soon as I can
It LOOKS GREAT! Well done! This has made me rethink what I might do to my 'bus' conversion! Thank you for showing all the steps and providing the links. Two thumbs up and five stars, young man, from this old patriot! :)
As I’m getting ready to convert a bus, and live in the high desert, may I ask if you’ve thought any more about this and have you done it? If so, how well does it work (or are you still in the planning stages)?
Thanks elf aka Dajjaal.
Finally someone that can walk chew gum and show actually how to do something without having to know the name of your pets your grandma your great grandma and your fourth cousin removed
Stg....there's some long-winded people on the Tube. I'm like "just tell me what you used, how you did it, and did it work!"
Exactly..I do a lot of fast forwarding 😅😅😅😅
Back in 1979 I bought a brand new van and sometime in January me and five friends decided to go to Harriman State Park and camp out overnight in this metal box well all I have to say is that without insulation a metal box can get so cold if the wind is blowing that you can freeze to death pretty quickly I remember pouring a glass of water and watching it freeze within 4 seconds so obviously it's not just heat that it comes amplified.
Nice job, love the clean look inside. I’m patiently waiting for my 24x36 metal garage to arrive. I will certainly be following along with your tips on your channel.
Who did you order your Metal building from. Cost
@@Gokywildcats11 hello, I ordered thru Viking Steel Structures which is a dealer for Carolina car ports. I’ve had my building for a couple years now and I’m very happy with it. I ended up paying for their insulation package for the walls and ceiling which is only plastic foam board that is about a half inch thick that is installed between frame and walls. The cost was almost 13k for everything except concrete.
Will start installing same material on my 26x35x12 unit ..thanks for the tips and great video
The exterior color and proper roof coatings can also be a lot of help with temperature and moisture and longevity of the structure.
Good luck to you and your channel.
What colors do you recommend, I'm North of hot humid Texas. Slab being poured in 2 days.
"- I have 0 condensation issues since installing this! " this is my biggest concern with my new building so I'm going to be installing this as per your instructions! moisture in a building like this can rust tools and cause mold inside cars QUICK!!
Just had a 30x45 installed and was wondering how to insulate it. Thanks for the information.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching
Go for it without a second thought. Its grea
I did this to my metal building. The trusses in the winter (45 degree Temp) water droplets formed and dropped on floor after we turned on some electric heat. Same in the summer when I ran ac while painting. In the winter I could here the droplets dropping on the triple bubble shield and draining to the eves. My building 60x40 with 14' eves, 20 ' to peak. I lived in my rv inside building for 2 years before installing the vapor barrier triple bubble. So I know I had no roof leaks after build. I put the vapor barrier in 40x20 living area. I now will be removing the vapor barrier triple bubble and the wood framing. I will have closed cell foam 3" thick R factor 18 and they will flash coat top truss run. Good luck on yours.$2000.00 on foam and $4000.00 on vapor barrier, supplies and labor to install and labor to take off.
Where do you by chance live? City state? I would like to do foam and that seems like a hell of a good price.
Very good presentation,metal is the way to go with the price of wood lumber
Isn’t crazy the price increase, it’s like a perfect storm. Terrible for the building industry.
thanks so much your instructions worked well. Building is finished - double bubble- in a 400 sq ft 12 foot high metal building. It took me about a week .. your instructions - and no help from anyone.
Awesome!!! Nice Job
Nice clean looking job! You left space between the metal and the insulation giving air a place to move instead of condense.
Is it possible to connect the wall space cavity to the ceiling space cavity and then vent out in the peak? Also to accomplish this, small vents could be made at the base of each wall cavity. I've found that moving air will dissipate the moisture and reduce the condensation. Air should rise naturally to the peak and vent out moisture....just thinking. Any opinions on this?
At minimum, vent the roof.
I’m actually building a VersaTube this summer; this is exactly what I need done!
Great job with the mechanical fasteners. That tape would eventually fail especially in high heat conditions. ✌🏻🇺🇸
What would you use instead?
@@jeffreyparker130 not instead of but in addition to. I would add as many mechanical fasteners as possible. Screws, staples, wood batons, wire etc… anything to keep it from sagging in a couple years.
Great tutorial. I’m having a barn built and researching on how to insulate and wire it. Great job. Thanks. I’ll be following you.
did you use this for your barn? I need something to cool it down for my animals
@@pittysbad I have not. So far, the heat hasn’t been unbearable for me once I open all windows and bays.
I am wondering why you didn't attach the furring strips to the front of metal studs and cover the wall studs and ceiling rafters with the insulation? Those metal studs transmit a lot of heat and cold. It would also give you a larger air gap and prevent the insulation from touching the wall metal in between the furring strips.
That's what I thought but you'd have a potential to poke holes in the insulation and get insects and mice living in the air gap.
I am skeptical about that insulation on the ceiling. Just so many people that have it installed have the double stick tape undo and it drops and looks very bad. My wife and I opted for spray foam. It doesn't look as pretty but it does the job and actually helps structurally as well. Seeing you are going to do some fishing touches inside and you used staples as well as the double-sided tape on the walls that looks pretty interesting. The double bubble does give a much cleaner look when it is done and if done right may not be a problem in the future. Very nice video.
Used screws in addition to the tape on the ceiling. Been in place for a few years now with no issues
i have a similar building. I couldn't afford the insulation at the time of build ($10,000) so i decided to do it later. i like the idea of yours to do it this way. But i have been thinking the metal attached to the metal studs do draw heat and if that beam could be insulated with like a cover of foam board it would help drop the inside temps as well. thanks for posting
What did you end up doing?
i have seen people do the insulation later on and they eventually found it alot faster to just remove the roof panels and install radiant barrier inbetween the sheets . took a week to do cause of limited time cause of 12 hrs job shifts. I may do the same thing on mine
Looks super clean! Don’t have any moisture issues! Thanks
Thx a Ton for the Post
The flags do look GREAT!!! Bravo!!! I'd suggest at least one or two more: (1) the 15 star-15 stripe "Star Spangled Banner" of Fort McHenry and (2) the Grand Union flag -- 13 stripes + the Union Jack which was used for about 1-2 yrs by the American forces before the 13 star Betsy Ross Flag was adopted on June 15, 1777. And of course, noting that you're in NC, you should definitely add the Battle of Guilford Court House Flag.
Nice video! I have a similar building. Put up sheets of styrofoam, held them up with furring strips on the outside of the foam, attached to the steel beams.
Been working, however, I now see a mistake. I have them directly touching the walls/ceiling.
One thing I've noticed, the condensation still forms on the beams, drips off of them. Hopefully you won't have that issue.
Oh, you just got a subscriber!
Hopefully the air gap prevents the condensation issue. Havnt had a probl yet! Thanks for the sub!
@@PatriotDIY hey man i be fixing to be doing mines to. How long ago did u do yo video? What I be done be sayin is I be wantin to do mines just like u be done did in da video brotha. Could u let me know how long ago u be done did it? Thanks brotha
@@PatriotDIY also is it eazier to be done be heatin? What I be askin is do it be stayin ALOT hotta inside?
@@wildestcowboy2668it's much better at keeping radiant heat from the sun out to make it cooler. ! but it will also help some to keep heat in.
@@PatriotDIY thanks for responding brotha.
Great tutorial and great craftsmanship! Way to go PATRIOT!👊🏻💪🏻🇺🇸
Love the flags!
That looks like a great option. I've seen several folks have this double bubble stuff turn to almost a dust and start falling apart. Hope yours holds together!
Was there an air gap, or did they attach directly to the metal? That could make the difference.
I have a similar building, 2 car garage here in Fl. I haven't bothered insulating it because I just keep my truck and lawn equipment out there, I dont use it as a workshop or anything. I think you may have continual issues with moisture building up inside if you cover it with wood like you said, even with insulation. I would put some vents down by the floor, and up near the ceiling to allow for some air flow to keep moisture to a minimum.
Great video. As a fellow insulator I’m always curious to see what my southern friends are doing about this radiant heat. I typically see spray foam installed as it provides a air tight envelope, but I’ve heard great things on this foil product in hot climates.
I used this same foil insulation in a pop up camper. It worked great in the windows and ceiling area of the canvas. It reduced the heat tremendously.
That’s a lot of work ! I’m glad I opted for them to fit at build time !
What happens during the winter? Do you know if the warmer building air in the winter causes any condensation between the foil insulation and the metal roof. If so, does this cause a mold issue?
I would really love him to answer this question also....
In this installation, there isn't anything to support mold, in the ceiling. The furring strips in the walls could support mold. Mold and fungus require organic material to "feed" on, not metal, nor synthetics. Rust could be an issue, though, if condensation develops.
Great video thank you. I did exactly what you did and I too put screws in the roof because as soon as it started getting hot out that tape was giving way 👍
Now that you've had this insulation up for awhile, how well do you find that it is working? For both the heat and the cold. I'm in the southeast also and am about to put up a metal building and am currently weighing my options for insulation.
Usually it’ll be about 10 degrees less inside than what it is outside. The main owner for most of the metal warehouses out here uses the same material and being Arizona it’s definitely a must. I’m getting my garage done today with the same materials so it’s a life saver for sure.
@@IZA-611 Interesting. I have a small metal work shop, 12' x 16'. I installed an exhaust fan in the wall 6&1/2 feet above the floor. I put it on a thermostat set to turn it on at 80 degrees. That gets the building 10 to 15 degrees cooler than outside temps.
I live in western NC. It's not desert but we've had temps this year often in the mid 90's.
@@KI-zj5tt is that with or without the insulation? I’ve been meaning to get something installed maybe a mini split but it’s pretty cool inside the shop now even without it
I love steel pole construction but that the only thing is it's a giant oven in the summer and the condensation especially in the winter when using a heater
Nice work! Did you by chance get a before and after interior temp reading?
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
The one thing I found out was cheaper hiring contractors was insulation and sheetrock install. They did the jobs cheaper than I could buy the raw materials for. Sometimes diy costs more than hiring.
Curious to know if you took a temperature reading since you installed insulation. What was the difference?
Posted some temp comparisons to our Facebook page! Building remains approx 10 degrees cooler on very hot days ( which normally would be 10-20 hotter than outside) and 10 degree warmer on cool days! That is obviously without conditioning!
@@PatriotDIY
Any concern of it falling apart as some of the comments suggest?
@@KA4UPW not really....but I guess we will find out in 10 years
Thanks down here in SW LA as you know we were hit with 2 hurricanes it took out my 35x35 shop and now finally getting a new one built in 6 weeks (prices skyrocketed) going back with a 30X50w/10ft wing insulating myself will save a lot of $. thanks for the video.
St. Bernard parish boy here. My 14x26 garage went up 2k in a week! I cannot find info from manufacturers that mention how they install the panels with proper airgap.
It gets moist down here in da bayous. lol
@@poppaluv did you find the air gap info and did it work?
Love the flags! Rock on, Patriot!
Any construction adhesive will turn to dust over time. Literally...to dust.
The heat from the radiant barrier will shorten this duration of time.
VERY NICE install.
👍
Thanks for covering this topic. Could additional insulation be added to the building after the double bubble foil is installed? In Northern Minnesota winters get really cold. A high R-value could lessen the strain on the heaters.
Yeah use coroplast.....tape ends to make it closed cell.....all white would look good
Plastic can burn but less flammable than other stuff if you want you can fireproof coat it....no necessary but you can
R value use the double potatoes
Was about to commit that the tape won't last as soon as any moisture get on it, but the staples will hold it up good clean work
Just curious. Could I attach insulation directly to metal beams instead of using the wood?
He did say he only used the wood to make a air gap in between . so if you have wood or metal stud attach to there`s your air gap .
You can. Won't make much difference.
Great video! I really like your solution! I'm going to pretty much copy what you did.
I had pros install the 4ft wide batting, plastic covered insulation. I'm having major inside condensation problems dripping on my machinery. Anyone else?
Do you have a ridge vent, soffit vents, or gable vents? I have Ridgid foam and reflective foil insulation, it's cut down a lot of condensation but I still get some when temps go below freezing. I started installing soffit vents but my ridge and gables are not vented yet.
I live in Alabama and I’m planning to have a shop like this. Thank you for this video
Nice job.
You have the ridge vent for the venting of the roof. But where is the hot air in the wall going ? How is it vented to the outside at the top of the wall ?
Thx
Finally a good video on how to insulate a metal building I have been waiting for something like this
Sorry to let you know that in several years you are going to regret your choice of material. It deteriorates into falling plastic particles.
I have a pole barn that I am having to deal with that is about 15 years old.
I have the same problem. this stuff is a disaster to clean up as it deteriorates. cost me thousands to replace.
So what is the recommended alternative? Im considering a metal building at the moment. Just researching the pitfalls.
@@intrepid5566 Closed cell spray foam is what a lot of the builders use in garages and shops. But that gets pricey quick.
Just good ole fiberglass insulation at the highest R-value you can put in the cavity, is the best, least expensive, and most effective/efficient option.
@@catharticcathexis4527 what is the average price to spray a 2 door garage 16x7 feet
That was very helpful! Thank You! (love the flags! Great idea!)
It is very important to show the way you affix the insulation the building
Did that! used double sided tape to hold it in place then used staples and screws to secure it!
Great tip thank you , perfect timing going to try this in my attic looks like great heat deflection .
Great video as well as the job You did. Love the flags; Nice touch. Thanks for the helpful video.
Thanks for this. Much cheaper than foam. I live in Texas. It gets 110+ degrees during summer and as you highlighted in your video, inside temps are much higher. I was curious how does the adhesive handle the heat? Thanks!
Superb editing! Thank you for sharing your experience.
Excellent video,great idea,great job thhank you for sharing.
Great job!
Thanks for video I was wondering how I was gonna do this I had a 30x40 put up I just had the builder to insulate the top So I’m gonna insulate the walls
Thank you. This was really helpful.❤❤❤
That looks great. I would that's plus the insulation sheet panels.
Love your channel-Great ideas that I’m sure I’ll use in the future. GO PIRATES!
Nice job food looks great!?. I thought the 2side tap was crazy but it looks great
I was wondering about it staying up without more support. Good job lookin good
Holding up great with the tape, staples and screws
Great video! It helped guide me how to proceed with my 12X16 metal building. I like the strips idea to maintain the moisture space. I'm using that idea. But my building has 2X4 framing with metal walls. I'm going to use 4X8 sheets of 2" polypro but cutting to fit in my 24" spaces between them. I'll screw the strips to the 2X4's then glue the cut insulation sheets to the strips and fill any cracks with "great stuff". (maybe a few screws to add more support). When insulated well, I'll consider paneling of some sort for my shed/workshop. Any suggestions/other ideas?
I'd give the job a 85. There's a heat gap at the roof peak that allows heat to exit. But it also allows dust and debris to get in. Covering that will allow whatever to get in (rain, dust, dirt, insects like wasp etc.) without being noticed. A hard side ways rain also.
For radiant heat emissivity is the aspect of insulation that is most critical. R value is most often based on absorption of energy not reflection of radiant heat.
IT LOOKS GREAT MAN! I HOPE TO SEE ANOTHER VIDEO WITH A THERMOMETER, AND THE OVERALL TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE WHOLE BUILDING. KUDOS TO YOU..
Thanks for the video. I was looking for a video how I could do my shop. I think I'll go to what you did. 👍🏼
Thanks for the video, this gave me the confidence to do it myself.
I’ll bet that Liquid Nails doesn’t stay stuck to that metal very long. The expansion and contraction of the metal will cause the adhesive to let go especially with the weight of the insulation hanging from the 1x2s
Awesome, thanks for the info.
I like it a lot. Your engineering talent and work ethic reminds me of me…more than a few years ago. Question: I wonder if the expansion and contraction of the steel siding will cause the two sided tape to loosen? Do you think applying the glue to the edge of the 1x2 and attaching it to the post would be worth consideration, because the steel posts are substantial and would flex very, very little if any thereby eliminating movement by the 1x2? That would still leave a sufficient air gap between the siding and the insulation.
Best on TH-cam by far 👍🇺🇸
That looked like a huge task, but looks like you’ve done a great job. The install looks very clean and tidy.
Great vid! Thanx for posting, Patriot!
Patriot from Vegas.
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
That looks great, you do nice work.
Great video. I am in the process of planning to put a 20’x30’ workshop up. Am looking at having the woven R-17 insulation on the ceiling and sides. I am in Western NC and hope I won’t have any moisture issues.
This stuff looks like it works great and it's relatively cheap. I think I would go back over the ceiling edges with another set of outside stringers just to make sure the ceiling double stick tape doesn't come loose from the heat over a bunch of years. I know u put in the staples but another strip on the outside would lock this stuff in. Maybe the same on the walls, especially on the sides directly exposed to the sun most of the year since there's plenty of room for them without protruding out past the steel uprights.
Great video, you sure helped me decide.
Love it bro amazing
You should do a video on your shop, the size, cost and process of it. Lot of us considering building a shop and it's daunting trying to find who to use or costs involved. I've seen some shop install videos get a half million views so the more info the better. Great content, new subscriber here.
I was planning to do a shop build video but my cameras messed up and didnt film while it was being built so I had to scrap that video. Now just waiting to get it a little organized and get some stuff in it then I'll do a shop tour video and include some of the info you are talking about
I have 38k in a 28x48x12 with a 12x48 lean-to 6 windows 2 36 inch door 3 10x10 doors roof and lean too insulation. Pad is 47x40 with footer and rebar 35 yards of concrete . Yard is on a hill with a slant. It took 7 dump truck loads of sand clay one load of crushed concrete 6 trees removed 6 stumps grinded . The ground work was a extra 6k just getting ready for the pad in my case.
I'm in north carolina
@@brandonpittman5243 nice thanks guys
I just had a 24x40, 10 foot height vertical roof. 3 9ft wide 8ft tall roll up doors, on 36inch entry door.
Bldg cost 13750. Slab with footings and smooth finish 6900.00
great work- thanks for sharing the knowledge
Great video! Thanks and keep posting!
I would have added several metal wind Turbines in pairs on either side of the peak in the roof to ventilate and suck that hot air out.
My building is a wooden frame. I put two coats of cool seal on the top. But it's about 60 year old it was a carport I put walls on it and a door