I got a 4.0 SOHC on my 2010 mustang, it has 212k miles on it. Runs like a dream, switched the plastic thermostat to aluminum and changed the tranmission fluid every 30k this. Changed the oil every 5k with full synthetic. These can last over 300k easily just doing the maintenance.
Toyota has put out engines with cold start timing chain rattles too. They just tell customers that the rattle is "normal". They also tell customers that it's "normal" for their brand new Toyota to drink up to 1 quart of oil every 1,200 miles. They also refused to issue a recall for external oil lines failing with their 3.5 V6.
@@iamdjnam Yea that was from the era of peak Toyota engineering. Simple, rugged, reliable. The pressure from governments around the world to reduce fuel consumption and emissions is the main cause. It's why all the automakers have struggled with reliability and durability in the last decade or so.
One of your subscribers here. Thanks for all the great videos you’ve done on the 4.0 engine. Spent part of the past summer on an ‘08 Explorer and with several of your great tips she runs like a top. Enjoyed watching your adventures with the SOHC as I built mine. Excited to find another one to bring back to life!
I got a 2000 Ford explore 4.0l sohc replace the Motor had shop do that they put in a used one with 114,000 miles on it. I put 2000 miles on it and it’s got a light ticking sound. I’m gonna try to change the oil and see if that makes that disappear since these timing chains are driven by oil pressure, if not, you are more than welcome to contact me to buy mine for 2500 bucks if you’re still looking
The nylon guides missing is what causes the rattle, if Ford had made them metal there would seldom be an issue. Also, the reason the guides break is due to slack in the chains, which is due to worn out hydraulic tensioners, if owners would replace the tensioners every 100,000 miles there would be very few issues with chains rattling. BTW, the Death Rattle is a very slow death. I drove one for 12 years with the timing chains rattling.
Slow for some. Not for everyone. Every case is different. Ford decided not to metal reinforce the traction side. But with the engine last produced 12 years ago, I doubt they would ever care.
I have read about people using metal ones out of RZR's for a replacement. No idea how they pull tht off but I planned to look into it because nothing else will really kill these motors if you don't abuse them.
I agree with you then they put a plastic set of valve covers on that crack then they put an intake on there that's plastic that pisses me off about ford
These are seriously one of the best engines. If you change oil frequently. Another thing is it has a motorcraft 820 filter which is HUGE, fill it before spinning it on. Mine has 280k and silent. Original alternator fuel pump coil pack shocks it’s been great. I did rebuild the tranny particularly as it’s a plow truck
Seriously ?? one of most idiotic designs ever made..a cast iron block with aluminum heads and plastic parts used in the timing. combine that with the passenger side cam sprocket being in the rear of the motor and the timing gears being without a mark make this motor absolute shit. Ford stands behind this motor so much that it discontinued all internal engine parts from their parts department, despite the fact they rolled cars off the assembly line with these trash engines less then 10 years ago.
Hahahah u didn’t let me explain why!! I love this engine because of how much damn money it makes me!!! So many people bring me these to fix. It’s a nice little side job to pay for things.
My 04 Explorer 4.0 has almost 300k miles on it. I have had a rattle for the past 10 years & over 100k but not that bad. It really hasn't gotten any worse really since it started. 🤷
I have a sound that is actually coming from my tensioner pulley that sounds """like""" this, that if you didn't know better, you'd think it was the chains rattling... But it really isn't. I need to change out a few pulley-ran components to reduce drag on the belt. It only happens when the AC is on or if the alternator has to work very hard if I ran too much power out of the battery.
Amazing video man! The Ford 4.0 V6, even with it's design flaws, can last a pretty long time with proper oil change intervals. And I've always preached the same, use good oil, good filter and change it often and you can stretch the mileage of these engines. Get some BG to clean that engine out! Can't wait to see you give it a new life again!
Absolutely! So glad you can see these engines are decent with regular maintenance. Never actually heard of BG, I was gonna pull the heads and have them cleaned but if you don’t think I need to then I’ll definitely try that stuff out!!!
@@iamdjnam I was introduced to BG by a ford master tech on youtube. Essentially it is a industrial-grade motor flush that consist of a cleaner and a rinse. You right it by themselves in the engine. Pricey stuff that some folks use before they had to tear an engine open. I maintain my vehicle well so I never had to use it. Doing head gasket jobs is enough to scare me straight.
It's a garbage motor, I have one now, my old ranger had the 3.0 same mileage, difference? No timing rattle, timing chain cost $50 for the kit, and takes 2hrs to do in the truck. Stop making excuses for a terrible design that is only there due to lazyness from Ford part
Motocraft oil filter allegedly has an anti drain valve in them to keep the oil from draining back into the oil pan in order to build oil pressure faster upon startup.
Another subber here, I’m doing my own 05 ST 4.0 timing job thanks to your videos (and a lil Google doc cheat sheet LOL) along with multiple fellow mechanics no-showing on this job. if you ever have time to reach out to me, I would love to pick your brain on a couple ideas I have, you have primo content and the fact that you’re playing in waters where nobody else wants to tread shows a lot. Here’s to 5k more subs and then some!
i bought a 05 ranger that my freind had parked in his feild it has the 4.0 i ended up having to pull the motor replace head gaskets and got one of the ebay timing kits and the timing tool ya recommended . got it all timed put back together by myself put it in truck which was not fun lol, anyways i cranked it over by hand to make sure was all timed rigth and no funny noises . well after getting it all back together i started it up and it fired rigth up ....deathrattle again. listened for it was passnger side timing chain ..took off cover and brand new chain guide was gone and it bent the bolt that holds it up top ... Well lesson learned but the ford oem parts cost alot . I will be pulling the motor back out 4 days before thanksgiving damnit and i need to track down a decent chain guide for the back side. but it ran good for a few minutes lol
Your videos are great! My '03 Sport Trac (4.0L, SOHC) gets an oil change about every 5k. She's got 230,000 miles and going...mostly strong. Replacing the transmission soon, she's not shifting on her own anymore. While I'm changing the transmission, I'm going to do the oil and also replace the oil pan gasket to, I hope, stop a small barely seeping leak. Not excited about tackling the trans. removal.
I have an 02 with the 4.6, and it makes a much more subtle ticking when I drive it, sometimes when I give it gas, sometimes when I lift. A mechanic told me that it's the exhaust manifold. I've had the right side manifold replaced, and it seems to be ticking a little bit less. I also have a problem where the transmission won't downshift to 4th on the freeway, I have to almost floor it to make it go down to 3rd just to keep pace.
Not saying it's right but I daily drove a 99 explorer with death rattle, I just ran a 50/50 mix of oil and the thick Lucas. Put 230xxx something miles on that turd, I miss it but now I'm in an 04 Ford explorer 4.0
😊 how about a 4.0 97 model engine and put it in a 01 Ford sport Trac had 139,000 mi on it that's been 7 years ago it started rattling for the last 2 years and it still drive everyday and it's got to be the most dependable thing I how to drive
I have a 04 explorer with the 4.0 and I hesr the same rattle when I start it up I hesr some rattling or grinding then it gets quiet but when it’s warmed up that’s when It starts at idle but this one mechanic said it’s the lifters but I heard timing system in these are common issues thanks for the info I’ll keep in mind and check it out hoping it’s that
4.0 SOHC Fords will last well over 225k if the oil is changed every 5k and the cooling system is maintained. Only the people that skip maintenance or buy a neglected car deal with “Death Rattle”. We would try and really brake the 4.0’s that people let go and got that death rattle back in the day. The technician next to me put one in the back lot with a brick on the gas pedal 15 mins latter it was still bouncing off the rev limiter. 4.0’s are way way way stronger than anyone gives them credit for.
When I replaced the valve covers on my 02 explorer I found the passenger side was missing the tensioners, but the chain is tight and it doesn't have the death rattle. But iam going to get a newer vehicle before it does break.
Just found my upper driver side tensioner exploded and shot the metal bit into the cassette and shattered it. What's left of the cassette flops on to the chain. I would need to pull everything in front of the engine to replace the cassette? Any chance there's an easier way to replace the cassette and tensioner?
The one I'm working on had that chain hitting that bolt on the back chain. The front chain was at the bottom of the engine because it broke. When it broke, it blew a hole through the side of the valve cover.
I have a 2007 sport trac and it's making the same type noise when idling but not quite as loud yet 😢,,drives fine now that I spent couple grand on rebuilding trans but this ticking / rattle noise is driving me crazy ..
I would like to find comparation of Fords 2.0L diesel vs 4.0l diesel. I want to hear the sound difference. I love diesel engines, they are quite popular in Europe
I had the same issue I have a 2010 Ford Explorer 6 Cylinder and now I have another issue after the fact the motor was replaced!!!! When I accelerate while in motion it a very loud grumbling sound .
I've had one that broke a back timing chain cassette guide, I tried to repair it but it just wouldn't cooperate so I just bought a new engine and replaced it. Now the new engine has a rattle coming from somewhere in the front, it doesn't quite sound as bad as this one in the video its more random ticking and frequency rather than steady like a baseball card on a bicycle spoke. I thought it might be a bad pulley changed 2 of them that were in need of replacing I discovered however that did nothing to change the noise. So now I'm thinking a front timing chain guide cassette may be the culprit if not it's something deeper in the internal combustion chambers. Could be several things, from the rods to the crank who knows but im wondering if there is a way to discover if it is a timing chain rattle of sorts without tearing the front of the engine off? Could be something as simple as a loose rocker arm but I don't want to pull the front of the engine off if it isn't the problem and move on to pulling the gasket covers. The sound radiates in the front it seems more prominently but no matter where you put your ear it makes you doubt that and believe it could be coming from anywhere. It's tricky. Ive tried the ear to the stick method using various rods, pipes and other methods but just can't get a lock on its exact location that I'm satisfied with. I'm trying to identify the problem before beginning to break into the engine is the goal. Would compression tests on each cylinder render any useful feedback? Could i remove one plug at a time taking away spark to that cylinder to see if ticking stops, would that makes sense or work? I know quite a bit but still things that I have yet to master so I'm just trying to use conventional wisdom spitballing but have no idea if any of these methods even work that way or realistic in any way to diagnosis a tick.
Card in spokes sounds exactly like you have broken plastic timing chain guide. You may be lucky - I think the front/top one can actually be replaced without engine removal. Btw, this is exactly why swapping out for another engine is problematic. People do it cos they don't want to change all the timing gear, but since that is the only thing that's likely to fail on these engines it makes sense to replace those parts rather than risk the same problem again.
@@BWater-yq3jx oh I tried to repair the old engine 3 times, the 4.0 on those 07 mustangs have a rear and front timing chain, and to replace the rear one you have to pull the engine. I replaced all the cassettes, gears, chain etc in the rear 3 times as i said and it kept breaking, just couldn't get the specs perfect as they needed to be, seemed impossible outside of the manufacturing process. But I did change the front ones too on the old engine and it was much easier. Had to realign the cames etc but yea the new engine developed that tick and probably was the front timing chain guide as I originally suspected but it's no longer my issue I sold that sob off before anything else went wrong or to where it became more of a noticeable issue. I just knew it was going to be a headache down the road, if not that something electrical or ecu issues were popping up so I was like yup im washing my hands of this I saw the writing on the wall lol
I have two 2006 Ford explorers with 4.0 V6's. The limited I bought in November just blew the motor on Wednesday due to overheating. I bought an XLT today that has a rebuilt transmission and good running motor. Cosmetically the limited is in far superior shape interior and exterior. What would I be looking at financially to swap the motor and transmission out of the XLT into the Limited? Should I consider rebuilding the blown motor as well and get them both running? Both engines have 123,000 miles on them ironically. I have an employee who's 21 year old kid would love to take a crack at rebuilding the blown engine and I'm more than willing to buy all the parts for him to do it even if the better option is buying a crate motor which are nearly impossible to find. Your opinion would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Don’t rebuild the engine. the iron deck and aluminum heads are probably warped to kingdom come. Also possible the head is cracked. Explorers don’t just overheat. As far as the cost to swap, I have no idea. I don’t go to or trust mechanics. Just get a used low mileage engine and replace the rear timing guide. Crate motors are a gimmick.
Mine i just bought with 180,000 miles and apparently he didn't keep the oil changed because before I could take it to my mechanic, timing chain started that rattle
Hey buddy look I recently replaced timing components on my ford mustang with the 4.0 v6, also replaced the cracked valve cover and I've been looking all over ford forum trying to locate and diagnose oil leaking into the engine valley like you described and witnessed in this video can you please tell me what that is thank you in advanced you're truly my best hope at fixing this issue
The oil leaking into the engine valley is due to a poorly sealed drivers side hydraulic timing chain tensioner. You either didn’t use the crush washer, scratched the aluminum mating surface, or didn’t torque the tensioner down enough.
You sure it’s oil or is it just oily? I had to redo my injector seals and seats because the top of the engine was oily. A little bit in the valley but mostly around the injectors under the fuel rails and around the intake runners.
I ended up selling my 4.0 ranger because of this for $1500. It sounded super rough. I had the cylinder head replaced and it leaked zero oil coming out of the shop , but the slack from the broken cassettes causes it to slap against the cover. Started losing oil pressure and oil fast . Drove it for maybe 300 miles before becoming a POS again .
I have a 2007 ford xlt mine doesnt sound like this its more of a lighter rattle like glass pinging near the front of the engine. ... Im not very savy with auto slang i apologize for my vague description but the car runs fine despite very low rpm at startup takes a little time for the engine to run normally at idle the rpms go up and down until it runs normal. Then when i stop at lights it act as if it will die ... A friend considered it to be the guides of the timing chain any ideas ?
The front noise you’re hearing is most likely the primary tensioner. It will run forever with it broken, I wouldn’t be concerned. Doesn’t sound like a cam chain guide. As far as the RPMs, I would consider a tune up, check for vacuum leaks, clean the throttle body and MAF sensor.
Hey man I got a couple questions. You seem like you’ve got quite a bit of experience with this. I just put a timing set in and it has the death rattle, and all the chains and tensioners are working as they should. What would you think it is?
Man so the cams or the crankshaft were that bad huh? No noises other than the chain rattle? I got 180k on mine and so far the guides are intact. Nothing in the pan, did tensioners twice for no reason other than I came across a cheap pair of new old stock ford tensioners. Didn’t get the front seal around the crankshaft positioned quite right when I did my engine cradle gasket so I’m just watching random 4.0 vids putting it off lol. I think it’s making the belt chirp a bit though I just don’t want to spend on an oil change 2000 miles into one
Nick, Thank you for the time and knowledge you have provided. I am trying to keep our 2003 going. After 259,000 miles, she has the start chain rattle on occasion. I knew this was coming a while back when I found a little piece of cassette in the oil pan. Would like to have your opinion on a few things. Other than the chains, the engine is solid with good compression on not burning oil. If I am going to pull the engine out, I was tempted to drop a remanufactured engine. Thoughts? Lastly, I saw you have a preoiler in one of your cars. Could you provide details on that. I have been starting the car in the morning via "flood mode" to get the oil pressure up before start. But the original starter is complaining. Regards,
At that mileage, the engines best years are behind it. Get a low mileage engine and put a timing kit. I don’t trust remanufactured unless I’m the one building it.
@@iamdjnam Nick, I finally dove in and I am just about ready to pull it out. Engine stand not here yet. I was contemplating to pull the heads now send them to machine shop since it takes two weeks return. With heads off, where would you attach lift to block? Finally, the strongest piece of advice from you is "have the will to continue". This is the most important tool in the box. My 4.0 is immaculate after 260,000. Wish I could post the pics here to support your advice on maintenance. It looks brand new. Thanks again for your time
After 260,000 miles, you should be looking for a different engine or a complete rebuild. Pulling the heads and sending them out to a machine shop will blow out the bottom end of the engine in a very short time span.
Just recently subscribed . I have a question that hopefully you can answer. What are the differences in the 08-10 Explorer sohc long block vs the 02-07? Reason I ask is that I have an 02 engine that I rebuilt 2 years ago and want to install it in my wife's 2010 Explorer. I've installed 08-10 in older trucks w no problem. As far as I know the cylinder heads are different. I know that they use a slightly longer plug. All of the forum "experts " claim that all long blocks are identical which is not correct. I'd just like to know if they're compatible in the newer truck once all accessories are swapped over. Thank you.
I know the plugs are different. Also on the cam lobes there were oil squirters from 02-05. They removed them in 06. No differences that would stop you from having a successful swap.
@@iamdjnam thanks again. I noticed that the 10 uses a longer plug which protrudes farther into the chamber. Do those plugs cause damage or issues in older engines?
Hi Nick, Thank you for the great videos. My wife’s 06 V6 4.0 has the death rattle and just wondering if the Cloyes Timing set is a good alternative and is it durable/good quality for a timing set? Regards, Mark
I’ve heard mixed reviews on them. Some say good some say bad. If the engine is healthy I would just bite the bullet and get the ford stuff. I order my ford timing parts from a seller on eBay “Tasca Parts”. I’ve also had luck with the Autozone in house brand “Duralast”. They are manufactured by SA Gear right in the USA.
Mine sounds similar when I start it up in the morning. It quiets down dramatically when engine warms up. After driving for a while it goes away almost completely. I just don't get it? My buddy has had this noise from 120k to this day and his truck has 166k now. WTF?
The chains are stretched. You hear the rattle because the oil doesn’t reach the tensioners quick enough. Could possibly have some broken guide pieces. They will keep running like that, it is just luck as far as how long.
I'm glad to see it doesn't look like it's a sudden death situation people made it sound like it would spontaneously combust I was really afraid as my girlfriend just got a 4.0 mustang for $400 fortunately it's actually very clean and runs real quiet as of now so hopefully we'll have a while till I'm doing timing haha
my 98 has a similar sound but not that sputtering you get when you throttle it. acquired it last year and dont have the money to rebuild the engine probably should sell the thing and find another car >.
Your 4.0 videos are amazing. I have a low mileage 4.0 2004 explorer I bought new . It got wrecked. I bought a 2007 sport Trac with the 4.0 blown.. can it be swapped? Big Thanks from a loyal subscriber!!
I SEE THESE 4.0 ENGINES WITH OVER 300K RUNNING GREAT. YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE OIL RELIGIOUSLY CASE CLOSED. EVERY NOW AND THEN I THROW A QUART OF TRANSMISSION FLUID OR MARVEL MYSTERY OIL IN MY 3.0 DURATEC AND MY 5.4 TRITON AND I HAVE 200K ON THEM AND THEY RUN LIKE NEW. YEARS AGO A CHEVY GUY SAID ABOUT THESE FORD ENGINES. KEEP THEM OILED UP AND THEY WILL RUN FOREVER. SOMETIMES FILLING A ENGINE WITH ALL TRAMSMISSION OIL COULD SOLVE NOISE PROBLEMS BY CLEANING OUT THE OIL PASSAGES. RESTORING PROPER PRESSURE AND LUBRICATION AND BRING BACK THE ENGINE TO LIFE. THIS IS A TECHNIQUE USED BY THE OLD SCHOOL MECHANICS TO DETERMINE IF THE ENGINE WAS STILL GOOD. I ALSO RECOMMEND TO USE ONLY ONE BRAND OF OIL IN THESE OVERHEAD CAM ENGINES. IF YOU STARTED OIL WITH CASTROL OR PENZOIL CONTINUE WITH THAT OIL ONLY. THE MOTORCRAFT SEMI SYNTHETIC IS WHAT I USE IN MY 3.O DURATEC. AND FOR MY 5.4 TRITON MOSTLY CASTROL BUT I WILL ADMIT I HAVE USED OTHER BRANDS AT TIMES BUT QUALITY OILS.
@@iamdjnam MINE IS A 2004 E-250 VAN. WHEN I BOUGHT IT 16 YEARS AGO WITH 16,000 MILES. I USE IT FOR PLUMBING AND IT CARRIES LOTS OF WEIGHT. I HAVE IT FULLY STOCKED WITH MATERIALS. IT IS A ROLLING PLUMBING SUPPLY HOUSE. THE TRANSMISSION IS ORIGINAL AND DID THE ROUTINE FLUID CHANGES. WHEN I BOUGHT IT 16 YEARS AGO. A OLD TIMER WHO ALSO HAD A E-250 LIKE MINE WITH 350K ON HIS, SAID I WILL RETIRE WITH THIS VAN AND HE WAS SO RIGHT. I'M 62 AND IN ANOTHER 5 YEARS I'M PACKING IT IN AND MY VAN STILL RUNS LIKE NEW. I HAD CHEVY VANS IN THE PAST AND THEY WERE OK. BUT THESE FORD E SERIES VANS ARE BULLET PROOF.
2005 Machined Cylinder Heads. Does any need these? They are for a V6 4.0L. I paid $600 to have them machined. Engine has maybe 150,000. Let me know if anyone has interest. I’m in MA
If you dont want to care about oil get a 300 i6. Even if you somehow manage to break the direct gear driven timing its not an interference engine anyway.
nice way to start the video, alienate all the ford owners. My sons toyota rav 4 has a death rattle too, all vehicles can and will have timing failure at some point if not maintained properly. I think his is the water pump, but either way, why start a video by talking down to people. I understand these engines have timing problems, for one too many chains.
It was sarcasm. If you can’t take a joke then don’t watch the videos. There’s over 7 vehicles in my driveway with the 4.0L. So I’m the one that should be talking.
That is an interesting point to show that people really have no excuse. Even cheap oil is better than old/used/no oil. and if you can pay for gas etc etc, you can pay for a simple oil change. find someone that can do it themselves at home if you cant afford to take it somewhere or cant do it yourself. lack of oil changes can ruin even the best engines. Ignorance will always come back to bite you lol
So many people buy a vehicle thinking it needs no maintenance whatsoever. Just start it up and go. Unfortunately that isn’t true and the small price of an oil change quickly turns into thousands when the engine dies.
pretty good videos this guy comes out with but you ever notice how some of these guys sound so confident when they speak I'm the type of guy that I probably pretty good videos this guy comes out with but you ever notice how some of these guys sound so confident when they speak I'm the type of guy that I probably couldn't talk is confident is him or her but I can blow you off the map with my mechanical ability and skill craftsmanship I'm just going to do a video of pointing with me not saying anything I don't really have to explain myself what it is I'm going to do you will catch on and take heed what it is I'm going to do once you see me doing it there's nothing wrong with speaking in your videos so people can understand you but I just feel there's so many videos out with people already doing something close to what I want to do I got to be a little bit different and think outside of the equation good luck everybody
I'm still rebuilding my engine. Trying to find the time is the biggest part of it. I'm doing a complete rebuild, including new pistons. I had a Cloyes tensioner go bad, so I replaced it with another Cloyes tensioner and it self destructed as soon as I started it. It destroyed everything in the engine (bent 3 valves and broke the front an rear cassettes) so I'm pretty pissed about that. I'd stay away from Cloyes tensioners. They're no longer made in the US.
I’m having a little tick on right side of my explorer 4.0l SOHC I just tried to join your page on Facebook I want to send video to let you hear what I’m hearing it only dose it when warm and not cold maybe oil pressure is lower because it just told me to change oil soon newer motor in truck 116,000 on it
Yup. As soon as I put the engine in, I found out the trans was shot and the ABS module was fried. So I pulled the engine back out, put it in my aunts explorer and junked the Eddie Bauer. Took a hard loss on that one.
@@iamdjnam Aw man!! That's too bad!! The trans is bad in the explorer we're working on, but I think we're going to find a trans in good condition from a junkyard. Gonna make sure it has a warranty though.
❤️ love ❤️ love ❤️ your channel! Keep making these awesome videos! I think ppl just haven’t discovered you yet! Love my explorer & wouldn’t sell it for anything!
Thank you so much! The channel is definitely gaining traction, I feel as if soon more people will find it! Just gotta keep making videos. I love my explorer. Coming close to 300k now.
God Bless you brother. I had the SOHC engine for 10 years and It's time to throw it in the trash. Mainly the transmission is a big problem for the Ford Explorer.
Toyotas seem to run quite awhile with noises wheras Fords seldom do. But if you have a rattley ohc ford rather than spend a pot of money on something that is likely to have a repeat performance, how about finding a 5.0 l. Ohv v8 to get rid of the problem once and for all. And put in a decent AT while you're at it.
Another thing you can do for your engine oil is about half way through your 3 - 5k mile change is to replace the filter. As long as the engine hasn't over heated the oil should be good and filters are not that expensive.
That’s why I don’t even give it the chance to! As soon as I hear it slapping I bring it in for a timing kit. Worth the risk here for my TH-cam viewers.
I got a 4.0 SOHC on my 2010 mustang, it has 212k miles on it. Runs like a dream, switched the plastic thermostat to aluminum and changed the tranmission fluid every 30k this. Changed the oil every 5k with full synthetic. These can last over 300k easily just doing the maintenance.
Toyota has put out engines with cold start timing chain rattles too. They just tell customers that the rattle is "normal". They also tell customers that it's "normal" for their brand new Toyota to drink up to 1 quart of oil every 1,200 miles. They also refused to issue a recall for external oil lines failing with their 3.5 V6.
I’d like to see a 4.0 make it to 350k miles like my 2JZ tho
@@iamdjnamI have one that’s at 290,000
Kind of unfair to compare a shitbox 4.0 SOHC that's never had its oil changed to literally anything else in existence
@@iamdjnam Yea that was from the era of peak Toyota engineering. Simple, rugged, reliable. The pressure from governments around the world to reduce fuel consumption and emissions is the main cause. It's why all the automakers have struggled with reliability and durability in the last decade or so.
The 3.5 definitely had a recall within its first year for the oil line. Hush , crying about 2007 still 😂
One of your subscribers here. Thanks for all the great videos you’ve done on the 4.0 engine. Spent part of the past summer on an ‘08 Explorer and with several of your great tips she runs like a top. Enjoyed watching your adventures with the SOHC as I built mine. Excited to find another one to bring back to life!
Much appreciated. Thank you for the kind words!
I got a 2000 Ford explore 4.0l sohc replace the Motor had shop do that they put in a used one with 114,000 miles on it. I put 2000 miles on it and it’s got a light ticking sound. I’m gonna try to change the oil and see if that makes that disappear since these timing chains are driven by oil pressure, if not, you are more than welcome to contact me to buy mine for 2500 bucks if you’re still looking
@@bobg3221 hey. Did the oil change do the trick?
The nylon guides missing is what causes the rattle, if Ford had made them metal there would seldom be an issue. Also, the reason the guides break is due to slack in the chains, which is due to worn out hydraulic tensioners, if owners would replace the tensioners every 100,000 miles there would be very few issues with chains rattling.
BTW, the Death Rattle is a very slow death. I drove one for 12 years with the timing chains rattling.
Slow for some. Not for everyone. Every case is different. Ford decided not to metal reinforce the traction side. But with the engine last produced 12 years ago, I doubt they would ever care.
Good point!
I have read about people using metal ones out of RZR's for a replacement. No idea how they pull tht off but I planned to look into it because nothing else will really kill these motors if you don't abuse them.
I agree with you then they put a plastic set of valve covers on that crack then they put an intake on there that's plastic that pisses me off about ford
Changing the tensioner in the rear is a no go unless you want to pay couple thousand in labour. Can’t do it without an engine hoist.
These are seriously one of the best engines. If you change oil frequently. Another thing is it has a motorcraft 820 filter which is HUGE, fill it before spinning it on. Mine has 280k and silent. Original alternator fuel pump coil pack shocks it’s been great. I did rebuild the tranny particularly as it’s a plow truck
I love this engine.
Seriously ?? one of most idiotic designs ever made..a cast iron block with aluminum heads and plastic parts used in the timing. combine that with the passenger side cam sprocket being in the rear of the motor and the timing gears being without a mark make this motor absolute shit. Ford stands behind this motor so much that it discontinued all internal engine parts from their parts department, despite the fact they rolled cars off the assembly line with these trash engines less then 10 years ago.
Hahahah u didn’t let me explain why!! I love this engine because of how much damn money it makes me!!! So many people bring me these to fix. It’s a nice little side job to pay for things.
@@iamdjnam I guess it's nice to take advantage of the unfortunate.
Assuming I’m a fortunate person? That was quick.
My 04 Explorer 4.0 has almost 300k miles on it. I have had a rattle for the past 10 years & over 100k but not that bad. It really hasn't gotten any worse really since it started. 🤷
I have '00 Explorer with that tapping. Either lifter or chain hitting guide. But it's fine. It be doing more than 10 years. 👍
@wilsontheconqueror8101 Ditto 👍
I have a sound that is actually coming from my tensioner pulley that sounds """like""" this, that if you didn't know better, you'd think it was the chains rattling... But it really isn't. I need to change out a few pulley-ran components to reduce drag on the belt. It only happens when the AC is on or if the alternator has to work very hard if I ran too much power out of the battery.
That’s why I always recommend removing the belt and starting the engine to see if the noise persists.
Amazing video man! The Ford 4.0 V6, even with it's design flaws, can last a pretty long time with proper oil change intervals. And I've always preached the same, use good oil, good filter and change it often and you can stretch the mileage of these engines. Get some BG to clean that engine out! Can't wait to see you give it a new life again!
Absolutely! So glad you can see these engines are decent with regular maintenance. Never actually heard of BG, I was gonna pull the heads and have them cleaned but if you don’t think I need to then I’ll definitely try that stuff out!!!
@@iamdjnam I was introduced to BG by a ford master tech on youtube. Essentially it is a industrial-grade motor flush that consist of a cleaner and a rinse. You right it by themselves in the engine. Pricey stuff that some folks use before they had to tear an engine open. I maintain my vehicle well so I never had to use it. Doing head gasket jobs is enough to scare me straight.
@@free2chasehappy this poor engine ran good just needs some help. Will consider BG if I decide not to pull the heads. Thanks again!
Ok
It's a garbage motor, I have one now, my old ranger had the 3.0 same mileage, difference?
No timing rattle, timing chain cost $50 for the kit, and takes 2hrs to do in the truck.
Stop making excuses for a terrible design that is only there due to lazyness from Ford part
Motocraft oil filter allegedly has an anti drain valve in them to keep the oil from draining back into the oil pan in order to build oil pressure faster upon startup.
Most filters come with one today.
@@iamdjnam good to know. I kept seeing the motocraft oil filter being emphasized on the Ranger forum.
My 2003 Ford Ranger has 271K always maintained well. No leaks and still gets 19-21 mpg.
Another subber here, I’m doing my own 05 ST 4.0 timing job thanks to your videos (and a lil Google doc cheat sheet LOL) along with multiple fellow mechanics no-showing on this job. if you ever have time to reach out to me, I would love to pick your brain on a couple ideas I have, you have primo content and the fact that you’re playing in waters where nobody else wants to tread shows a lot. Here’s to 5k more subs and then some!
Email me! Platinumgarageco@gmail.com
i bought a 05 ranger that my freind had parked in his feild it has the 4.0 i ended up having to pull the motor replace head gaskets and got one of the ebay timing kits and the timing tool ya recommended . got it all timed put back together by myself put it in truck which was not fun lol, anyways i cranked it over by hand to make sure was all timed rigth and no funny noises . well after getting it all back together i started it up and it fired rigth up ....deathrattle again. listened for it was passnger side timing chain ..took off cover and brand new chain guide was gone and it bent the bolt that holds it up top ... Well lesson learned but the ford oem parts cost alot . I will be pulling the motor back out 4 days before thanksgiving damnit and i need to track down a decent chain guide for the back side. but it ran good for a few minutes lol
The Autozone duralast chain guides are affordable and owned by an American made company called SA Gear.
This video got you another sub.
Great video. 👍🏻
Your videos are great!
My '03 Sport Trac (4.0L, SOHC) gets an oil change about every 5k. She's got 230,000 miles and going...mostly strong. Replacing the transmission soon, she's not shifting on her own anymore. While I'm changing the transmission, I'm going to do the oil and also replace the oil pan gasket to, I hope, stop a small barely seeping leak. Not excited about tackling the trans. removal.
Make sure timings all good … these pieces of shit are notorious for chain issues
I have an 02 with the 4.6, and it makes a much more subtle ticking when I drive it, sometimes when I give it gas, sometimes when I lift. A mechanic told me that it's the exhaust manifold. I've had the right side manifold replaced, and it seems to be ticking a little bit less. I also have a problem where the transmission won't downshift to 4th on the freeway, I have to almost floor it to make it go down to 3rd just to keep pace.
Definitely sounds like a exhaust manifold or a spark plug working itself loose.
my 2004 explorer with the 4.0 has 187k miles rn and no death rattle. I never had the engine open. I change oil every 5k with synthetic
My mothers has upwards of 250k and has never been opened either. Bought it new in 06.
Not saying it's right but I daily drove a 99 explorer with death rattle, I just ran a 50/50 mix of oil and the thick Lucas. Put 230xxx something miles on that turd, I miss it but now I'm in an 04 Ford explorer 4.0
hey listen if it works it works. that Lucas is good stuff.
Getting my 01 explorer sport back on the road this summer your saving me a giant headache. And your timing chain video is gonna save me 2k from a shop
😊 how about a 4.0 97 model engine and put it in a 01 Ford sport Trac had 139,000 mi on it that's been 7 years ago it started rattling for the last 2 years and it still drive everyday and it's got to be the most dependable thing I how to drive
I have a 04 explorer with the 4.0 and I hesr the same rattle when I start it up I hesr some rattling or grinding then it gets quiet but when it’s warmed up that’s when It starts at idle but this one mechanic said it’s the lifters but I heard timing system in these are common issues thanks for the info I’ll keep in mind and check it out hoping it’s that
4.0 SOHC Fords will last well over 225k if the oil is changed every 5k and the cooling system is maintained. Only the people that skip maintenance or buy a neglected car deal with “Death Rattle”. We would try and really brake the 4.0’s that people let go and got that death rattle back in the day. The technician next to me put one in the back lot with a brick on the gas pedal 15 mins latter it was still bouncing off the rev limiter. 4.0’s are way way way stronger than anyone gives them credit for.
My 2003 Ranger FX4 Level II 4.0L was making a very bad noise. Luckily, it turned out the water pump was making the racket.
Wait. You did that awesome video on how to repair the max AC air door behind the glove box?
Yup!
When I replaced the valve covers on my 02 explorer I found the passenger side was missing the tensioners, but the chain is tight and it doesn't have the death rattle. But iam going to get a newer vehicle before it does break.
Sometimes the guide is gone but it doesn’t make noise. Get rid of the truck.
@@iamdjnam I would but no money and I live in it.
Ok then do what I did in this video
Just found my upper driver side tensioner exploded and shot the metal bit into the cassette and shattered it. What's left of the cassette flops on to the chain. I would need to pull everything in front of the engine to replace the cassette? Any chance there's an easier way to replace the cassette and tensioner?
gotta pull everything
The one I'm working on had that chain hitting that bolt on the back chain. The front chain was at the bottom of the engine because it broke. When it broke, it blew a hole through the side of the valve cover.
Beside the death rattle, what other way can we know the chains are shot ?? So the Ford 4.0 engine is a interference fit type ??? Nice video fella.
I don't know that there are any warning signs- Mine ran fine and sounded fine until 30 minutes ago on my way home from work, now it sounds like death
I have a 2007 sport trac and it's making the same type noise when idling but not quite as loud yet 😢,,drives fine now that I spent couple grand on rebuilding trans but this ticking / rattle noise is driving me crazy ..
My 01 Ranger just started to do this today, guess I have some work ahead of me
Got any videos on replacing the lifters with the engine in the vehicle
I would like to find comparation of Fords 2.0L diesel vs 4.0l diesel. I want to hear the sound difference.
I love diesel engines, they are quite popular in Europe
I had the same issue I have a 2010 Ford Explorer 6 Cylinder and now I have another issue after the fact the motor was replaced!!!! When I accelerate while in motion it a very loud grumbling sound .
Can a p0171 be code for death rattle too?
I’ve seen lean codes for out of time engines. Cams tilt back slightly.
Hey just want to give a big thanks, because of your helpful videos I was able to rebuild my 4.0 on my Explorer sport!!!
That’s great to hear! So glad I could help
How much roughly did it cost to build that rebuilt engine?
Where are you located and do you take outside work. I have developed the death rattle in a 2008 Ford Explorer.
NJ and yes. Email me using the address in the description and consider joining my Facebook group as well for immediate contact to me.
Why was it deemed a total loss?
I've had one that broke a back timing chain cassette guide, I tried to repair it but it just wouldn't cooperate so I just bought a new engine and replaced it. Now the new engine has a rattle coming from somewhere in the front, it doesn't quite sound as bad as this one in the video its more random ticking and frequency rather than steady like a baseball card on a bicycle spoke. I thought it might be a bad pulley changed 2 of them that were in need of replacing I discovered however that did nothing to change the noise. So now I'm thinking a front timing chain guide cassette may be the culprit if not it's something deeper in the internal combustion chambers. Could be several things, from the rods to the crank who knows but im wondering if there is a way to discover if it is a timing chain rattle of sorts without tearing the front of the engine off? Could be something as simple as a loose rocker arm but I don't want to pull the front of the engine off if it isn't the problem and move on to pulling the gasket covers. The sound radiates in the front it seems more prominently but no matter where you put your ear it makes you doubt that and believe it could be coming from anywhere. It's tricky. Ive tried the ear to the stick method using various rods, pipes and other methods but just can't get a lock on its exact location that I'm satisfied with. I'm trying to identify the problem before beginning to break into the engine is the goal. Would compression tests on each cylinder render any useful feedback? Could i remove one plug at a time taking away spark to that cylinder to see if ticking stops, would that makes sense or work? I know quite a bit but still things that I have yet to master so I'm just trying to use conventional wisdom spitballing but have no idea if any of these methods even work that way or realistic in any way to diagnosis a tick.
Card in spokes sounds exactly like you have broken plastic timing chain guide.
You may be lucky - I think the front/top one can actually be replaced without engine removal.
Btw, this is exactly why swapping out for another engine is problematic.
People do it cos they don't want to change all the timing gear, but since that is the only thing that's likely to fail on these engines it makes sense to replace those parts rather than risk the same problem again.
@@BWater-yq3jx oh I tried to repair the old engine 3 times, the 4.0 on those 07 mustangs have a rear and front timing chain, and to replace the rear one you have to pull the engine. I replaced all the cassettes, gears, chain etc in the rear 3 times as i said and it kept breaking, just couldn't get the specs perfect as they needed to be, seemed impossible outside of the manufacturing process. But I did change the front ones too on the old engine and it was much easier. Had to realign the cames etc but yea the new engine developed that tick and probably was the front timing chain guide as I originally suspected but it's no longer my issue I sold that sob off before anything else went wrong or to where it became more of a noticeable issue. I just knew it was going to be a headache down the road, if not that something electrical or ecu issues were popping up so I was like yup im washing my hands of this I saw the writing on the wall lol
I just bought one for cheap recently with 4x4 that was driving good until yesterday. "Service engine soon" light came on and it's rattling.
Depending on how loud the rattle is, you can keep driving it.
I have two 2006 Ford explorers with 4.0 V6's. The limited I bought in November just blew the motor on Wednesday due to overheating. I bought an XLT today that has a rebuilt transmission and good running motor. Cosmetically the limited is in far superior shape interior and exterior. What would I be looking at financially to swap the motor and transmission out of the XLT into the Limited? Should I consider rebuilding the blown motor as well and get them both running? Both engines have 123,000 miles on them ironically. I have an employee who's 21 year old kid would love to take a crack at rebuilding the blown engine and I'm more than willing to buy all the parts for him to do it even if the better option is buying a crate motor which are nearly impossible to find. Your opinion would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Don’t rebuild the engine. the iron deck and aluminum heads are probably warped to kingdom come. Also possible the head is cracked. Explorers don’t just overheat. As far as the cost to swap, I have no idea. I don’t go to or trust mechanics. Just get a used low mileage engine and replace the rear timing guide. Crate motors are a gimmick.
Engine swap with a coyote
Mine i just bought with 180,000 miles and apparently he didn't keep the oil changed because before I could take it to my mechanic, timing chain started that rattle
Hey buddy look I recently replaced timing components on my ford mustang with the 4.0 v6, also replaced the cracked valve cover and I've been looking all over ford forum trying to locate and diagnose oil leaking into the engine valley like you described and witnessed in this video can you please tell me what that is thank you in advanced you're truly my best hope at fixing this issue
The oil leaking into the engine valley is due to a poorly sealed drivers side hydraulic timing chain tensioner. You either didn’t use the crush washer, scratched the aluminum mating surface, or didn’t torque the tensioner down enough.
You sure it’s oil or is it just oily? I had to redo my injector seals and seats because the top of the engine was oily. A little bit in the valley but mostly around the injectors under the fuel rails and around the intake runners.
I ended up selling my 4.0 ranger because of this for $1500. It sounded super rough. I had the cylinder head replaced and it leaked zero oil coming out of the shop , but the slack from the broken cassettes causes it to slap against the cover. Started losing oil pressure and oil fast . Drove it for maybe 300 miles before becoming a POS again .
Yeah that’s crazy they would replace a cylinder head without a complete timing job. Sounds like a recipe for disaster.
@@iamdjnam yep. I don’t know why they didn’t tell me about the timing chain work before installing a whole ass cylinder head
mine rattles from the passenger side, it’s been doing that since i got it. it doesn’t rattle under any load tho
Yeah just leave it be
I have a 2007 ford xlt mine doesnt sound like this its more of a lighter rattle like glass pinging near the front of the engine. ... Im not very savy with auto slang i apologize for my vague description but the car runs fine despite very low rpm at startup takes a little time for the engine to run normally at idle the rpms go up and down until it runs normal. Then when i stop at lights it act as if it will die ... A friend considered it to be the guides of the timing chain any ideas ?
The front noise you’re hearing is most likely the primary tensioner. It will run forever with it broken, I wouldn’t be concerned. Doesn’t sound like a cam chain guide. As far as the RPMs, I would consider a tune up, check for vacuum leaks, clean the throttle body and MAF sensor.
Don’t forget the iac valve
They go a lot I’ve replaced two so far
Hey man I got a couple questions. You seem like you’ve got quite a bit of experience with this. I just put a timing set in and it has the death rattle, and all the chains and tensioners are working as they should. What would you think it is?
What’s your oil pressure?
Theres the key, oil changes. My wifes mustang gets Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft filter ever 3-5k. It only gets used 6 -7 mos. a year.
never mind the few special tools/ fixtures needed to rebuild this beauty.
Man so the cams or the crankshaft were that bad huh? No noises other than the chain rattle? I got 180k on mine and so far the guides are intact. Nothing in the pan, did tensioners twice for no reason other than I came across a cheap pair of new old stock ford tensioners. Didn’t get the front seal around the crankshaft positioned quite right when I did my engine cradle gasket so I’m just watching random 4.0 vids putting it off lol. I think it’s making the belt chirp a bit though I just don’t want to spend on an oil change 2000 miles into one
Nick,
Thank you for the time and knowledge you have provided.
I am trying to keep our 2003 going. After 259,000 miles, she has the start chain rattle on occasion. I knew this was coming a while back when I found a little piece of cassette in the oil pan. Would like to have your opinion on a few things.
Other than the chains, the engine is solid with good compression on not burning oil. If I am going to pull the engine out, I was tempted to drop a remanufactured engine. Thoughts?
Lastly, I saw you have a preoiler in one of your cars. Could you provide details on that. I have been starting the car in the morning via "flood mode" to get the oil pressure up before start. But the original starter is complaining.
Regards,
At that mileage, the engines best years are behind it. Get a low mileage engine and put a timing kit. I don’t trust remanufactured unless I’m the one building it.
@@iamdjnam
Makes sense.
What's the preoil kit that you have installed in the green explorer.
Many thanks
@@franciscoadolfo5805 it was pieced together. eventually a video will come out. not quite yet.
@@iamdjnam
Nick,
I finally dove in and I am just about ready to pull it out. Engine stand not here yet. I was contemplating to pull the heads now send them to machine shop since it takes two weeks return.
With heads off, where would you attach lift to block?
Finally, the strongest piece of advice from you is "have the will to continue". This is the most important tool in the box.
My 4.0 is immaculate after 260,000. Wish I could post the pics here to support your advice on maintenance. It looks brand new.
Thanks again for your time
After 260,000 miles, you should be looking for a different engine or a complete rebuild. Pulling the heads and sending them out to a machine shop will blow out the bottom end of the engine in a very short time span.
Is there something I can send you a video on? I have a 06 ranger 4.0 wondering what a noise is or what maybe ideas u might have
Hey. I'm in NY. I got 03 explore. Need ur advice. I believe I got a bad lifter. How can I change plz let me know. Shelf is stock. On the head.
Those lifters are hard to get out. You need the roller removal tool. Spray the lifter with PB blaster and heat it up
@@iamdjnam I'm waiting for the tool I ordered on Amazon.
Are u the same guy with the videos ?
Ok great
Are u the same guy on the videos ?
Just recently subscribed . I have a question that hopefully you can answer. What are the differences in the 08-10 Explorer sohc long block vs the 02-07? Reason I ask is that I have an 02 engine that I rebuilt 2 years ago and want to install it in my wife's 2010 Explorer. I've installed 08-10 in older trucks w no problem. As far as I know the cylinder heads are different. I know that they use a slightly longer plug. All of the forum "experts " claim that all long blocks are identical which is not correct. I'd just like to know if they're compatible in the newer truck once all accessories are swapped over. Thank you.
I’ve used 2010 engines in 2002 explorers and 2002 engines in 2010 explorers. They are interchangeable.
@@iamdjnam thanks for the reply. Out of curiosity do you know the difference in the cylinder heads?
I know the plugs are different. Also on the cam lobes there were oil squirters from 02-05. They removed them in 06. No differences that would stop you from having a successful swap.
@@iamdjnam thanks again. I noticed that the 10 uses a longer plug which protrudes farther into the chamber. Do those plugs cause damage or issues in older engines?
@@jmahtab I never attempted using them in the older engines. If I put an 03 motor in an 09, I’ll buy 03 plugs.
Hi Nick,
Thank you for the great videos. My wife’s 06 V6 4.0 has the death rattle and just wondering if the Cloyes Timing set is a good alternative and is it durable/good quality for a timing set?
Regards,
Mark
I’ve heard mixed reviews on them. Some say good some say bad. If the engine is healthy I would just bite the bullet and get the ford stuff. I order my ford timing parts from a seller on eBay “Tasca Parts”. I’ve also had luck with the Autozone in house brand “Duralast”. They are manufactured by SA Gear right in the USA.
@@iamdjnam tasca is a east coast ford dealer
So how did that turn out? 5-6 years ago I heard cloyes was getting iffy.
@@dirtyaznstyle4156 I bought Genuine Ford parts and has been working like new ever since.
@@dirtyaznstyle4156rhode island
I have a 4.0 ford engine but it only has a noise at about 2500rpm. Other than that its quiet.
Hey bro I have a 2006 Mercury Mountaineer put a new transmission and engine block and it still has a squilling noise and engine shake need help
Check the weight in the harmonic balancer. Notorious to break loose.
Okay thanks bro
I changed the harmonic balancer and it's still shaking
@@skeltonantonio did you see if the weight was broken before changing it?
@@iamdjnam no just put a new balancer in
Mine sounds similar when I start it up in the morning. It quiets down dramatically when engine warms up. After driving for a while it goes away almost completely. I just don't get it? My buddy has had this noise from 120k to this day and his truck has 166k now. WTF?
The chains are stretched. You hear the rattle because the oil doesn’t reach the tensioners quick enough. Could possibly have some broken guide pieces. They will keep running like that, it is just luck as far as how long.
I'm glad to see it doesn't look like it's a sudden death situation people made it sound like it would spontaneously combust I was really afraid as my girlfriend just got a 4.0 mustang for $400 fortunately it's actually very clean and runs real quiet as of now so hopefully we'll have a while till I'm doing timing haha
my 98 has a similar sound but not that sputtering you get when you throttle it. acquired it last year and dont have the money to rebuild the engine probably should sell the thing and find another car >.
These chains aint nothing to do piece of cake.
To me and you, yes. To others, bent valves immediately lol
Have a 04 sport trac4.0 sohc 241000 miles on it regularly change oil
Your 4.0 videos are amazing. I have a low mileage 4.0 2004 explorer I bought new . It got wrecked. I bought a 2007 sport Trac with the 4.0 blown.. can it be swapped? Big Thanks from a loyal subscriber!!
It absolutely can be swapped! Any 4.0 from 97-2010 will fit no issue.
@@iamdjnam thanks !! I'm gonna do a timing set on it and throw it ony!! Thanks to your videos!!
Never ever wanna do another mustang 4.0 timing chain
😂 there a piece of cake
Hey? Have you repaired your engine using new timing chain kit or just swap it for another "good" one?
I used the one from my headgasket tutorial video like stated in the video.
@@iamdjnam And this engine on the video is dead or it "only" needs new timing chain kit?
It’s dead. The amount of sludge is unacceptable. I will need to tear it down and have the heads jet washed.
@@iamdjnam Oh, so its dead because of inregular and late oil changes. But valves, pistons etc. Are ok?
Yes. Lack of maintenance destroyed this engine. But the internal parts like valves and pistons are still fine.
I SEE THESE 4.0 ENGINES WITH OVER 300K RUNNING GREAT. YOU HAVE TO CHANGE THE OIL RELIGIOUSLY CASE CLOSED. EVERY NOW AND THEN I THROW A QUART OF TRANSMISSION FLUID OR MARVEL MYSTERY OIL IN MY 3.0 DURATEC AND MY 5.4 TRITON AND I HAVE 200K ON THEM AND THEY RUN LIKE NEW. YEARS AGO A CHEVY GUY SAID ABOUT THESE FORD ENGINES. KEEP THEM OILED UP AND THEY WILL RUN FOREVER.
SOMETIMES FILLING A ENGINE WITH ALL TRAMSMISSION OIL COULD SOLVE NOISE PROBLEMS BY CLEANING OUT THE OIL PASSAGES. RESTORING PROPER PRESSURE AND LUBRICATION AND BRING BACK THE ENGINE TO LIFE. THIS IS A TECHNIQUE USED BY THE OLD SCHOOL MECHANICS TO DETERMINE IF THE ENGINE WAS STILL GOOD. I ALSO RECOMMEND TO USE ONLY ONE BRAND OF OIL IN THESE OVERHEAD CAM ENGINES. IF YOU STARTED OIL WITH CASTROL OR PENZOIL CONTINUE WITH THAT OIL ONLY. THE MOTORCRAFT SEMI SYNTHETIC IS WHAT I USE IN MY 3.O DURATEC. AND FOR MY 5.4 TRITON MOSTLY CASTROL BUT I WILL ADMIT I HAVE USED OTHER BRANDS AT TIMES BUT QUALITY OILS.
My triton had over 420,000 when we sold the van.
@@iamdjnam MINE IS A 2004 E-250 VAN. WHEN I BOUGHT IT 16 YEARS AGO WITH 16,000 MILES. I USE IT FOR PLUMBING AND IT CARRIES LOTS OF WEIGHT. I HAVE IT FULLY STOCKED WITH MATERIALS. IT IS A ROLLING PLUMBING SUPPLY HOUSE. THE TRANSMISSION IS ORIGINAL AND DID THE ROUTINE FLUID CHANGES. WHEN I BOUGHT IT 16 YEARS AGO. A OLD TIMER WHO ALSO HAD A E-250 LIKE MINE WITH 350K ON HIS, SAID I WILL RETIRE WITH THIS VAN AND HE WAS SO RIGHT. I'M 62 AND IN ANOTHER 5 YEARS I'M PACKING IT IN AND MY VAN STILL RUNS LIKE NEW. I HAD CHEVY VANS IN THE PAST AND THEY WERE OK. BUT THESE FORD E SERIES VANS ARE BULLET PROOF.
what mic are you using?
Built in GoPro mic
I've been driving one for 7 years with this noise......
Yeah I got one too that ain’t worth fixing I just let it rattle…………………..
Wow this is a great video it helped me so dam much!
2005 Machined Cylinder Heads. Does any need these? They are for a V6 4.0L. I paid $600 to have them machined. Engine has maybe 150,000. Let me know if anyone has interest. I’m in MA
If you dont want to care about oil get a 300 i6. Even if you somehow manage to break the direct gear driven timing its not an interference engine anyway.
Interference engine is so stupid
You selling any rebuilt engines?
Couple used ones at the moment with new timing guide. Nothing reman.
Pennzoil ultra platinum oil and wix air filter... Those 2 things are the secret for long life.
nice way to start the video, alienate all the ford owners. My sons toyota rav 4 has a death rattle too, all vehicles can and will have timing failure at some point if not maintained properly. I think his is the water pump, but either way, why start a video by talking down to people. I understand these engines have timing problems, for one too many chains.
It was sarcasm. If you can’t take a joke then don’t watch the videos. There’s over 7 vehicles in my driveway with the 4.0L. So I’m the one that should be talking.
That is an interesting point to show that people really have no excuse. Even cheap oil is better than old/used/no oil. and if you can pay for gas etc etc, you can pay for a simple oil change. find someone that can do it themselves at home if you cant afford to take it somewhere or cant do it yourself. lack of oil changes can ruin even the best engines. Ignorance will always come back to bite you lol
So many people buy a vehicle thinking it needs no maintenance whatsoever. Just start it up and go. Unfortunately that isn’t true and the small price of an oil change quickly turns into thousands when the engine dies.
pretty good videos this guy comes out with but you ever notice how some of these guys sound so confident when they speak I'm the type of guy that I probably pretty good videos this guy comes out with but you ever notice how some of these guys sound so confident when they speak I'm the type of guy that I probably couldn't talk is confident is him or her but I can blow you off the map with my mechanical ability and skill craftsmanship I'm just going to do a video of pointing with me not saying anything I don't really have to explain myself what it is I'm going to do you will catch on and take heed what it is I'm going to do once you see me doing it there's nothing wrong with speaking in your videos so people can understand you but I just feel there's so many videos out with people already doing something close to what I want to do I got to be a little bit different and think outside of the equation good luck everybody
I'm still rebuilding my engine. Trying to find the time is the biggest part of it. I'm doing a complete rebuild, including new pistons.
I had a Cloyes tensioner go bad, so I replaced it with another Cloyes tensioner and it self destructed as soon as I started it. It destroyed everything in the engine (bent 3 valves and broke the front an rear cassettes) so I'm pretty pissed about that. I'd stay away from Cloyes tensioners. They're no longer made in the US.
Yup. Outsourced from Taiwan now. I made a Facebook group. Consider joining if you have any questions. Ford 4.0L SOHC v6 owners club
I’m having a little tick on right side of my explorer 4.0l SOHC I just tried to join your page on Facebook I want to send video to let you hear what I’m hearing it only dose it when warm and not cold maybe oil pressure is lower because it just told me to change oil soon newer motor in truck 116,000 on it
Yep sounds just like my 02 Ranger! I'm trying to decide if I can do it or not. Just subs.
Subscribed.
The unfortunate sound of a dying 4.0. If you are in the NJ area I can do the work if you don’t feel comfortable.
Thanks to your videos, we got all the chains, guides and sprockets replaced. Now we just have to do the rear main seal.
Your videos are awesome.
Thank you very much! Glad I was able to help!
@@iamdjnamHave you gotten the Eddie Bauer Explorer all back together?
Yup. As soon as I put the engine in, I found out the trans was shot and the ABS module was fried. So I pulled the engine back out, put it in my aunts explorer and junked the Eddie Bauer. Took a hard loss on that one.
@@iamdjnam Aw man!! That's too bad!!
The trans is bad in the explorer we're working on, but I think we're going to find a trans in good condition from a junkyard. Gonna make sure it has a warranty though.
Always make sure it has a warranty. I’ve been burned before.
❤️ love ❤️ love ❤️ your channel! Keep making these awesome videos! I think ppl just haven’t discovered you yet! Love my explorer & wouldn’t sell it for anything!
Thank you so much! The channel is definitely gaining traction, I feel as if soon more people will find it! Just gotta keep making videos. I love my explorer. Coming close to 300k now.
The good old ranger rattle.
Yeah, that rattle even sounds like a chain draggin on something metal. What a mess, yipes!
You sound like a young ChrisFix lmao
Believe it or not my phone skipped to a ChrisFix video and it took me a second to notice 😂
I know the guy. He lives one town over from me.
God Bless you brother. I had the SOHC engine for 10 years and It's time to throw it in the trash. Mainly the transmission is a big problem for the Ford Explorer.
Yes sir those 5r55 transmissions are terrible
Mine has 213,000 miles on it and shifts nice just don’t beat the hell out of it and it’s good and oh yeah MAINTENANCE
Replace timing chain tensioner 2006 explorer
I been just letting mine rattle away for a long time now
Toyotas seem to run quite awhile with noises wheras Fords seldom do. But if you have a rattley ohc ford rather than spend a pot of money on something that is likely to have a repeat performance, how about finding a 5.0 l. Ohv v8 to get rid of the problem once and for all. And put in a decent AT while you're at it.
So that's what it sounds like! Hope never to hear it on my 98 Explorer with the same engine.
Another thing you can do for your engine oil is about half way through your 3 - 5k mile change is to replace the filter. As long as the engine hasn't over heated the oil should be good and filters are not that expensive.
89k now buddy
Well, from MY point of view, your "dumb Explorer´s engines" should already had gave you 10K subscribers! 😀
Always nice videos!
Cheers!
Much appreciated!! Someday soon I definitely hope! Very very grateful for 5000. Started from nothing :)
My explorer is at 194k and it awfully sounds a lot like how it does here lol 😂 that's no bueno
Good luck finding a Melling timing set. Because of Covid I’ve been waiting 4 months. Any other kit is junk, trust me.
Got it off Amazon prime idk came in like 4 days
"want to avoid timing rattle?" Yeah. "Buy a Toyota." No... more like buy the OHV or the V8 302.
I didn't see any of that
That motor isn't "hur-ing". It'd hurTing. With a "t".
Had nothing else to say? That was a lame insult. “TTTTTry” again.
@@iamdjnam Try using real words. Illiteracy is not "edgy", Suzy.
@@iamdjnam😂😂😂
99% of the time it will jump time when starting
That’s why I don’t even give it the chance to! As soon as I hear it slapping I bring it in for a timing kit. Worth the risk here for my TH-cam viewers.
?SOHC? REALLY, this engine has 2(two) cams on top of the 2(two) heads!!!
It’s a sohc. You sound foolish. Do your research. SINGLE OVER-HEAD CAM. SINGLE.
Rip
Toyota consumes oil 😂
Lmao ask my 2jz she doesn’t consume a drop
@@iamdjnam Where you been ? 😂
Toys have all sorts of technical bulletins
th-cam.com/video/v4JS7PybV2k/w-d-xo.html .
Toyota like 4Runner needs new timing belts or chains as well. And some are interference engines too.
My 2jz is interference but takes 2 hours to do a full timing belt and water pump job, the engine can also stay in.
@@iamdjnam 2 hours give me a break . I can do my waterpump ona 3800 gm engine in 30 minutes
this is started ford on the road to ruin. pos desighns like this and the 5.4 3 v