Thanks for posting this video! I’ve been chasing the cause of the rattle from my 2004 Ranger’s 4.0L SOHC for a while now. After watching this video I removed the passenger side valve cover and the timing chain guide was gone (just like in this video but with the bolt partially intact). Thankfully I was able to fish out all pieces of the broken guide with a set of very long pliers. I bought a new timing chain guide and followed your procedure. The only thing I did differently was use a Ford bolt and cut the collar in half. One half of the collar stayed in the rear side mounting groove (like OEM) and the other half was placed between the front side of the timing chain guide and the mounting surface on the engine (I had to cut the second half to get the spacing correct and install a large washer between it and the timing chain guide). The result is that when the bolt is tightened it clamps down on the timing guide and holds it securely in place. This clamping force combined with the blocking screw/JB weld means the guide probably won’t ever move out of place. My Ranger is basically a farm truck so it’s not the end of the world if the guide breaks again but it’s running great now and I’m confident this fix will last for a while. Thanks again!!! 🍻
did this today on a mustang just instead of using the factory guides like you did i used a guide from a 5.4 was able to cut and shave it to the correct size worked perfect.....i didn't like the idea of the pin and jb weld godforbid it failed the pin has a potential to get stuck in the chain and snap or skip it
Hi 1st: off I feel from watching your videos that You are a very itelligent young man and your communication skills are spot on. I learned quite a bit from your videos. My question is this (I KNOW THIS IS NOT THE VIDEO THE COMMENT ON WHAT I AM ABOUT TO ASK/SAY ONLY BECAUSE THE COMMENTS ARE TURNED OFF FOR "PARTS 1 & 2 "FORD 4.0 COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD VIDEOS. (BOY I FEEL FOR ALL THE BLABBING I HAVE DONE SO FAR I HAVEN'T SAID ANYTHING.. SO HERE WE GO. QUESTION: WHEN TORQUING THE CONNECTING ROD BOLTS YOU ONLY TORQUED THEM. AND USING A TORQUED WRENCH ONLY TELLS YOU THE AMOUNT OF FRICTION IT TAKES TO TURN. THE NUT OR BOLT IS IT NOT THAT IMPORTANT (I AM NOT BEING A SMART ASS) TO MEASURE THE STRETCH OF THE NEW BOLTS THREADS?
Thank you. You are so cool. I tell my friends to subscribe because you give us information we can actually use thus elevating our I. Q. Level Thank You for making me snarter
@@iamdjnam yh I spent like 4 to 6 hours straight tryna deal with my timing system but my rear guide seems to be fine But the front is gone the tensioners are all broken off(well the plastic for the camshaft tensioner) My biggest challenge was replacing the balancer shaft tensioner without removing the jack shaft bolt but I made it by removing the key way and pulling the crankshaft gear to the point where it couldn't move forward no more then removing the crankshaft sprocket for the balancer chain then removing the Chain from the balancer side but it still was difficult to time the balancer(didn't even know it had a timing sequence) but after that the tensioner made it difficult to re seat the balancer sprocket on the slot so I had to press down on the tensioner on the balancer chain to get it to fit( that alone took 2 hours on its own I wouldn't believe the smallest chain was the most difficult) but so far as I see it looks to be in time but I'm waiting to finish put everything together My right camshaft seems to be off about 5mm or so do u think that'll be an issue
Yes. Any slight movement in the cam can bend valves. Timing the balancer doesn’t matter. It’s all BS. As long as the chain is on it’ll work. Most of the time I just cut the chain.
Question when you say rotate the engine to get the slack back to tight are we rotating it to where the cams are to bottom end? I get the whole first part with the modifier cassette part it’s just the part about what we do after we have bolted the cassette in place that confuses me a little still. Is the cassette supposed to free spin a little bit after bolting in or supposed to stay in place?
You’ll see when you rotate the engine the chain gets tight then loose then tight then loose. Just rotate it until it’s loose so you can slip the half cassette in there. It’ll have a little movement because it’s just hanging from the top bolt.
Unfortunately no, as funny as it may be the engine didn't make much noise. Cold start rattle and noise between 2000-3000 RPMS. But literally RIGHT AFTER I did this the front cassette shit the bed and it rattled so badly I refused to keep it running. Had to tear the whole front of the engine apart. I have a video of what that sounded like tho. No noise from the rear chain ever since.
Sounds like your motor knocking Also if other side of guide or gone completely it will be out of timing by a few hair give ir take degrees so at lights stop sings it will or may spit and sputter and or ping
so mine broke the same way at yours did here and thinking about doing this as a temp fix until I finish my rebuild how long did this fix last you and do you think I need to do this if I got all the plastic out I dont care about the noise I just dont want it to skip a tooth and or grenade itself
Sorry for the late comment, but I don't know what else to do. I have pulled the engine and replaced all timing chain components. it is still making this noise. what do I do.
@@iamdjnam Yep. its all good there. I removed valve cover and belt to eliminate any alternator or water pump noise. the chain isn't moving, the tensioners are doing their job
I have a 07 4.0L mustang, sometimes I hear a ticking/rattle noise when it’s warmed up but it comes and goes sometimes can drive it all day and never hear it. Any idea what that could be?
I really won’t be able to diagnose without you pulling a valve cover and inspecting the condition of the guides. Could be a lash adjuster, roller follower, timing guide, etc.
I thought you said as a matter I fact I know you said you use DNJ Parts And components so I bought DNJ because you recommended them. So what is it? Other than that I donLi e the info on your videos you have great communication skills and easy to follow and for that I Thank you
Yeah I still use DNJ to this day. It really all comes down to how long you want something to last. I use DNJ if I want 100k miles. I’ll *unfortunately* cough up the money for OEM if I want 200k
how much do you charge to do timing chains?,someone told me that they would have to take the engine out to replace the front and the rear plus replace the valve cover gasket.I want to know how much you charge?
ok just trying to get a feel for a good price,after replacing my timing chain tensioners the front and the back one the noise that I was hearing got worse on cold starts now it keeps going and it quiets down about 50 60 miles an hour and the sound is sounding like it's coming from the valve covers.
@@iamdjnam thank you, I have a Land Rover Discovery with the same engine, I dont want to have to pull the motor, but it's to good to send off to the wrecker and to expensive for someone to pull the motor. My bolt is still there, but the guide is completely gone. I'll try this method and hope it lasts a while. Thanks again
apparently the original fomoco part is worthless, I have an '06 ranger. Had I known ford had this timing chain system.... This ranger would have never sat in my driveway. Anyonw that would make a "TIMING CHAIN SYSTEM" without timing marks, should be made foot the cost of repair! Advancement in automotive technology obviously means more costly repairs. You can rebuild most auto/truck engines for what it costs to replace the timing chains in this ranger.... If you are shopping for a vehicle... do a search on common repairs. And steer clear of multiple timing chains. Check on the tranny repairs too!!! Better Yet!! Buy something made before 1975.... HEH-HEH-HEH
Thanks for posting this video! I’ve been chasing the cause of the rattle from my 2004 Ranger’s 4.0L SOHC for a while now. After watching this video I removed the passenger side valve cover and the timing chain guide was gone (just like in this video but with the bolt partially intact). Thankfully I was able to fish out all pieces of the broken guide with a set of very long pliers. I bought a new timing chain guide and followed your procedure. The only thing I did differently was use a Ford bolt and cut the collar in half. One half of the collar stayed in the rear side mounting groove (like OEM) and the other half was placed between the front side of the timing chain guide and the mounting surface on the engine (I had to cut the second half to get the spacing correct and install a large washer between it and the timing chain guide). The result is that when the bolt is tightened it clamps down on the timing guide and holds it securely in place. This clamping force combined with the blocking screw/JB weld means the guide probably won’t ever move out of place. My Ranger is basically a farm truck so it’s not the end of the world if the guide breaks again but it’s running great now and I’m confident this fix will last for a while. Thanks again!!! 🍻
did this today on a mustang just instead of using the factory guides like you did i used a guide from a 5.4 was able to cut and shave it to the correct size worked perfect.....i didn't like the idea of the pin and jb weld godforbid it failed the pin has a potential to get stuck in the chain and snap or skip it
Hi 1st: off I feel from watching your videos that You are a very itelligent young man and your communication skills are spot on. I learned quite a bit from your videos. My question is this (I KNOW THIS IS NOT THE VIDEO THE COMMENT ON WHAT I AM ABOUT TO ASK/SAY ONLY BECAUSE THE COMMENTS ARE TURNED OFF FOR "PARTS 1 & 2 "FORD 4.0 COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD VIDEOS. (BOY I FEEL FOR ALL THE BLABBING I HAVE DONE SO FAR I HAVEN'T SAID ANYTHING.. SO HERE WE GO. QUESTION: WHEN TORQUING THE CONNECTING ROD BOLTS YOU ONLY TORQUED THEM. AND USING A TORQUED WRENCH ONLY TELLS YOU THE AMOUNT OF FRICTION IT TAKES TO TURN. THE NUT OR BOLT IS IT NOT THAT IMPORTANT (I AM NOT BEING A SMART ASS) TO MEASURE THE STRETCH OF THE NEW BOLTS THREADS?
Ford requires 15 ft/lbs on the nut plus 90 degrees. You don’t need to measure the stretch but you can use a dial for a precise rotation.
Thank you. You are so cool. I tell my friends to subscribe because you give us information we can actually use thus elevating our I. Q. Level Thank You for making me snarter
My bolt for the tensioner is still in place so how would I go about doing this fix by just putting the screw in to secure the guide piece in place?
If the bolt and guide is still in place, leave it alone. Don’t mess with anything until it snaps at the bottom and drops down.
@@iamdjnam yh I spent like 4 to 6 hours straight tryna deal with my timing system but my rear guide seems to be fine But the front is gone the tensioners are all broken off(well the plastic for the camshaft tensioner)
My biggest challenge was replacing the balancer shaft tensioner without removing the jack shaft bolt but I made it by removing the key way and pulling the crankshaft gear to the point where it couldn't move forward no more then removing the crankshaft sprocket for the balancer chain then removing the Chain from the balancer side but it still was difficult to time the balancer(didn't even know it had a timing sequence) but after that the tensioner made it difficult to re seat the balancer sprocket on the slot so I had to press down on the tensioner on the balancer chain to get it to fit( that alone took 2 hours on its own I wouldn't believe the smallest chain was the most difficult) but so far as I see it looks to be in time but I'm waiting to finish put everything together
My right camshaft seems to be off about 5mm or so do u think that'll be an issue
Yes. Any slight movement in the cam can bend valves. Timing the balancer doesn’t matter. It’s all BS. As long as the chain is on it’ll work. Most of the time I just cut the chain.
6:56 what ever happened to this idea? Would that work? Did you ever try it?
Hey my mustang did the same thing I got miss fire codes on 1 2 and 3 do you think it bent valves?
Yup
Thanks for the videos I'm going to need them.
Question when you say rotate the engine to get the slack back to tight are we rotating it to where the cams are to bottom end? I get the whole first part with the modifier cassette part it’s just the part about what we do after we have bolted the cassette in place that confuses me a little still. Is the cassette supposed to free spin a little bit after bolting in or supposed to stay in place?
You’ll see when you rotate the engine the chain gets tight then loose then tight then loose. Just rotate it until it’s loose so you can slip the half cassette in there. It’ll have a little movement because it’s just hanging from the top bolt.
Would u happen to have a video of what the motor sounded like before you took the value cover off
Unfortunately no, as funny as it may be the engine didn't make much noise. Cold start rattle and noise between 2000-3000 RPMS. But literally RIGHT AFTER I did this the front cassette shit the bed and it rattled so badly I refused to keep it running. Had to tear the whole front of the engine apart. I have a video of what that sounded like tho. No noise from the rear chain ever since.
Sounds like your motor knocking Also if other side of guide or gone completely it will be out of timing by a few hair give ir take degrees so at lights stop sings it will or may spit and sputter and or ping
@@iamdjnam where is that video I can't find it on your channel
@@trigger3204 what video?
so mine broke the same way at yours did here and thinking about doing this as a temp fix until I finish my rebuild how long did this fix last you and do you think I need to do this if I got all the plastic out I dont care about the noise I just dont want it to skip a tooth and or grenade itself
It’s still running 2 years later. Can’t believe it.
Sorry for the late comment, but I don't know what else to do. I have pulled the engine and replaced all timing chain components. it is still making this noise. what do I do.
You need to make sure you have oil pressure.
@@iamdjnam Yep. its all good there. I removed valve cover and belt to eliminate any alternator or water pump noise. the chain isn't moving, the tensioners are doing their job
But the engine is still tapping?
@@iamdjnam yep, coming from front of the engine, where the timing chain is
@@osa2k210Disculpa amigó, pudiste resolver el ruido que tenías? Es que me pasa algo similar 😢
I have a 07 4.0L mustang, sometimes I hear a ticking/rattle noise when it’s warmed up but it comes and goes sometimes can drive it all day and never hear it. Any idea what that could be?
I really won’t be able to diagnose without you pulling a valve cover and inspecting the condition of the guides. Could be a lash adjuster, roller follower, timing guide, etc.
Hey bro I'm dealing with this same problem but I have some questions.
Join the Facebook group in the description and ask anything
I thought you said as a matter I fact I know you said you use DNJ Parts And components so I bought DNJ because you recommended them. So what is it? Other than that I donLi e the info on your videos you have great communication skills and easy to follow and for that I Thank you
Yeah I still use DNJ to this day. It really all comes down to how long you want something to last. I use DNJ if I want 100k miles. I’ll *unfortunately* cough up the money for OEM if I want 200k
@@iamdjnam now you tell me. Thank you for your videos I should ditch the dnj and get oems Thanks for replying
how much do you charge to do timing chains?,someone told me that they would have to take the engine out to replace the front and the rear plus replace the valve cover gasket.I want to know how much you charge?
Engine needs to come out. What year? And what model? If you supply the parts you’re looking at $1000. 2 days.
ok just trying to get a feel for a good price,after replacing my timing chain tensioners the front and the back one the noise that I was hearing got worse on cold starts now it keeps going and it quiets down about 50 60 miles an hour and the sound is sounding like it's coming from the valve covers.
@@charleswilliams9895 replacing the tensioners on old cassettes can make them weaker. my price is about 1000 less than what a shop would want.
ok thanks
@@iamdjnam what state are you located in? I’m in Nashville, TN and would pay you to do this job for me.
How long did it last?
Still going since I made the video. My brother now has the truck and daily’s it to school and work.
@@iamdjnam thank you, I have a Land Rover Discovery with the same engine, I dont want to have to pull the motor, but it's to good to send off to the wrecker and to expensive for someone to pull the motor. My bolt is still there, but the guide is completely gone. I'll try this method and hope it lasts a while. Thanks again
Is it still going? I’m about to do this
@@dylanhatch2194 yes. I am still going strong, but do it at your own risk. It was always meant as a temporary fix for me.
Yeah mines still rocking too. No issues.
great
Your voice sounds like chrisfix voice lol
apparently the original fomoco part is worthless, I have an '06 ranger. Had I known ford had this timing chain system.... This ranger would have never sat in my driveway. Anyonw that would make a "TIMING CHAIN SYSTEM" without timing marks, should be made foot the cost of repair! Advancement in automotive technology obviously means more costly repairs. You can rebuild most auto/truck engines for what it costs to replace the timing chains in this ranger.... If you are shopping for a vehicle... do a search on common repairs. And steer clear of multiple timing chains. Check on the tranny repairs too!!! Better Yet!! Buy something made before 1975.... HEH-HEH-HEH
what a scam fix. just be honest about it.
It’s on my fathers car lmao the tranny slips and the diff leaks so we figured we’d try something
He did warn you at the start.
Aye someone listened for once
the whistle blowers usually the most guilty
That shit is janky as hell LOL
Would you believe it still runs lmaoooo