Had to pull my engine in my mustang because both sides blew, ended up just getting a used engine with less miles but I’m still doing this job while it’s out for longevity. Your video really cleared up a lot of my questions thank you!
I can’t thank you enough for this video! I have a 2006 mountaineer with 240,000 miles and the chain is slapping. Everyone tells me how horrid of a job this is, but I’m overall pretty mechanically inclined and with this video it inspired enough confidence in me to tackle it. I’ll update when I have the chain in if I’m able to get it going by myself
Thank you for this video, saves my life knowing I don't have to pull my engine to get to these chains like I was told by every shop in town!!!. you are very gifted. Thanks so much again
You’re welcome, please keep in mind that to replace the back chain you must remove the engine. All the fronts can be done with engine in vehicle. Thanks for watching!
@@iamdjnamThanks again. I'll let you you how it goes. Any suggestions on a brand for the best parts? So many bad reviews on these Ebay kits. I found a good deal on a Cloyes set.
Fantastic video. I have a 2001 Limited with a lot of miles and I can hear my chain guides doing some noise already. Your videos help me a lot, I think I will just rebuild the entire engine so I have a fresh start.
Thank you young man, for the excellent video. Instructional, clear, and to the point. This helps me immensely on knowing how to proceed now and what parts i need to fix my engine. Top end of front cassette blew up and put a large crack/hole in the front of driver's side valve cover. Nice to know i can do the repair without pulling the engine. Fingers crossed the rear cassette never goes. I feel bad for you seeing only 57 Likes out of 1,080 views, this vid deserves more. New subscriber now. Well done and thanks again.
Yes I too have the same problem, cracked the valve cover…. I do have a question, so after taking off the valve cover there is water! Now I had a a company replace my two tensioners and my thermostat housing 3 weeks ago because I was too busy now I have the cassette all shattered. What is your take on the antifreeze under valve covers? The oil is still relatively water free and not milky but oil cap has moisture?
This young man is great at making a video on this motor and he's very young I can tell he's only going to get better on this motor I'm working on one myself hence the reason I watch the video and I very glad I did
Don't know if it has been mentioned anywhere else but, I just took out my 2003 4x2 XLT engine out for a complete rebuild...It's got a 4x4 balance shaft unit ... Definitely OEM installed. We are first and only owners; never worked-on by anyone else before..
Hi friend, thanks Ford this video. Very good. friend. Here what brand do you recommend from the kit? Here in my country they sell a Chinese brand that doesn't last long. It is low quality. the front left chain tensioner, what would happen if we made it fixed? I don't think there is any screw that goes inside this tensioner.
When I did my first 4.0 swap in my 07 Limited, your videos were not around. They would have helped alot, good work. As it happens I am pulling it out again, no compression on any bank 2 cylinders. We'll see what's what when I get it out and crack that head. My question is about the balance shaft. In one of your timing videos you removed the chain and sprocket all together. I believe you said you don't need it. My rig is a 2 WD, of course I will do a complete cassettes and guides replacement when I have it out, how can I be sure removing my balance shaft chain is ok for my vehicle. One less part of the 4.0 timing job is fine with me. You do good work, well done.
Funny you should say that. When I did my first rebuild there weren’t any videos. That’s why I started making them. Get rid of the balance shaft. It makes no difference and is one less rotating part.
My 2005 Explorer 4.0 has 188K on it and so far, so good on the timing stuff.....I will be putting a Reman in it for around 3500.00 if anything goes bad.
I cut my balance shaft chain off with bolt cutters. Worked pretty good. Did not feel like messing with the jackshaft. The tensioner for the balance shaft chain came apart. I heard the rattle under acceleration. I immediately stopped using my Explorer and started surgery. I deleted that chain and replaced all the guides and cassettes. Only 125k and the engine had been previously been into. Found all the front head threads for the brackets heli-coiled 🤬. I’m at least on my way back together with it.
Thanks for the vid. My 06 explorer blew the guide, poked it out the valve cover. The cheap easy way or to the dump she goes, got my money out of it already but we did it this way. Quick tip on that extra balancer chain, chop it off with a small bolt cutter, no mess, chopped right through it. New guide 30 bucks, ebay valve cover fifty bucks (probably could have used JB weld), tube of black RTV six bucks.
Also I wanted to know how do I get the cam shafts back even with the heads , do I just turn them backwards to get them back in position or do I turn them click wise all the way around and what about the valves hiting the pistons and get bent or something .????? Can u please help me with this asap
Thanks so much! Although I probably wouldn’t tackle this myself, I have a better understanding of it’s workings! You e got a lot of knowledge for such a young Cat! Kudos!
I have 2002 164k and 1,2,3 side has cracked valve cover and got misfire on cylinder 2 and 3, with no chain slap ever before hand. I hardly drove on the engine right after it happened backing out of driveway and drove down the rode and saw the misfire code and figure the guide broke on rear. I did compression test and around 130s on 1,2,3 and 185s on 456. I then tried to do leak down test on cylinder 3 like you said but it is keep moving from TDC when air is applied, as I can also see the crank turn 1/4 way. Is this common to happen on out of timed engine. How do I check the condition of heads before opening it up ?
You say at the end that you checked your work with the tool. And? I'm assuming no adjustment needed. ?? I'm glad to see this video. I'm assembling the entire engine. I start with pistons and crankshaft tomorrow. I'd like to NOT have to pay for shipping for that timing tool. I'm actually asking a smith to make me a valve spring compressor from an old crowbar. I can press them fine with the head off, but once it's timed, I'm going to need something that doesn't clamp from underneath the head (and I don't want to install the head with the rockers in place and under pressure.) Exciting stuff! :)
What do you do if you take everything apart without marking anything or holding the camshaft in place? How do I get my timing, right? I have a engine with the timing chains off but not sure how to get the camshaft in the correct place along with the time gears because they aren't marked and free spin. I'm pretty sure my camshaft has been turned out of place
You need to watch my head gasket video where I go over timing and how to properly use the OTC 6488 timing tool kit. The engine does not have timing marks or colored links. You need to have a confident understanding of this engine or you will destroy the valves
Can you illustrate on the cassette the location in which you use the pry bar to remove as well as the screw driver to install. Thanks This video described a lot of useful information.
Hey @Platinum Productions, you're videos have been a lifesaver as I break into my daughters 4.0L 2005 Ford Sport Trac. Quick question though. I have the valve covers off, but not the harmonic balancer and timing cover. Those are my next steps. I am planning on replacing the front timing chain because I did a compression test on cylinders 2 & 5 (middle cylinders on each side) and 2 (passenger side had 225lb compression (seems awful high) and 5 had zero compression. I did the test to see which side had lost compression because I suspected the engine jumped timing. My daughter was driving it and it shut off on her doing 55mph. And won't start back up. In fact, it turns over very slow. It's not a battery or alternator problem. Can a blown head gasket cause this same symptom? When I took the intake off, there was a significant amount of coolant puddled on the top of the engine block. The engine is still in the vehicle. I appriciate your very informative and intuitive step-by-step explanations in your videos. I try to follow the same approach when I make my videos.
2005 Sport Track 4.0L that wasn’t making any noise and suddenly the driver side (front) upper cassette timing guide gave way and a piece got jammed above the upper cam gear and valve cover breaking a hole in the valve cover. Engine makes a knocking noise but still starts and runs fine besides the knocking noise. I’m wondering if the valves are striking the piston that’s causing the noise? Otherwise, replacing the driver side cassette would be simple enough. The truck has 280k miles.
No shut it off immediately and you can replace just the guide for like $50 without removing the engine. Don’t run it again though because the next time you do, you’ll strike the valves.
I turned my motor over by hand with timing chain off no compression pulled head of all me exhaust valves are stuck open. Each piston looks to have made contact with the valves.😬
My wife drove her 2004 4.0 sohc explorer 590,000 miles before it jumpped time. I am a retired ford tech, i bought the 04 explorer off lease with 28,000 miles flushed all fluids and changed to amsoil products even in the differential. annual coolant flushes.. service is the key and i swear by amsoil prouducts. Have the engine out clean as pin inside warped a few valves on drivers head. Since i can do the valves myself thinking of putting it back to running since the trans only has 18,000 miles on it. she wants it back running she don't like the ford edge (travelling nurse). That exploder has been all over the usa and has had the holy shit ran outta of it cause she drives like a bat outta hell. she gets blue lightted several times a month pulled over, when she tells them hospice nurse they let her go.
Question, is the Crank Timing gear beveled on one side? I ask because after my rebuild the crank pulley is out by 1/4 inch and eating belts after 150 miles. I suspect that this gear may be in backwards pushing pulley out the 1/4" Thanks. Great Video.
hello, just a quick question on the balance shaft chain delete, will leaving the upper chain guide off lead to no oil pressure? i just did the timing chains front and rear on my '01, and i left the balance shaft chain and upper guide off, and now it won't build oil pressure. hydraulic tensioners are slopping like crazy and i got nothing on a mechanical gauge. thinking maybe those bolts are open to the oil galley way on the back side er something. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
@@jasonportillo2717 oh no i haven't driven it like this, i still have an issue with oil pressure, but i pressure tested the oil system as i thought maybe it was being lost through the guide bolt holes, which it isn't
I have my heads off and did exactly everything you showed, I noticed one of the cams slightly rotated just a hair and isn’t perfectly parallel to the head anymore. Do I rotate it back to parallel then install the cam holding tool to make it stay put while I put the new chain on??
@@iamdjnam when I get all the chains and cassettes on, I can turn the engine over by hand, make sure everything is ok, then put the timing cover back on?
so i just used these and changed all my chains, cassettes, gears, and tensioners. i thought i did it correctly and triple checked everything, but when i turn the engine over now there are spots where the tensioner guide will pivot, causing varying slack in the chain as the tensioner pushes in and out against the guide. is this normal? i cant seem to find and faults in how i installed it
@@iamdjnam man i cannot express the peace of mind you just gave me lol these engines like to throw one curveball after another. this is day 3 of working on her and i think i needed to hear some good news for once!
I'm hearing some new noises in my wifes mountaineer and got a quote for the timing chain and water pump replacement today... with tax it's almost $6200! I wish you lived in Colorado Springs... 😔
Two of my Ford Rangers have the 4.0L SOHC engine. Both of them were making a loud noise that turned out to be the water pump. Water pump shaft bearing was the issue.
@@nofortunatesonII A few weeks later there was a coolant leak one morning. I ended up replacing the water pump and that seems to have fixed both issues
I have a 05 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 v6 that has a tapping sound. After replacing the injectors. Can’t figure out where it’s coming from. I replaced both timing chain tensioners and primed them with clean oil. Thought that could be the problem. It still makes that sound. It’s coming from the front of the engine. And no it’s not making that known rattling sound from the chains. The engine only has 170k miles on it. What are your thoughts that I should check? Any suggestions I greatly appreciate it.
@@iamdjnam I did check all of the valve lash adjusters and roller followers. They all are fine. Now would the chain guides etc behind the water pump make a tapping sound?
Hello! Please tell me after replacing the replacement of the repair kit on a Ford Explorer 4.0 sohc began knocking and began to pour oil from the valve cover of the left head into the intake manifold in the 3 and 4 cylinders because of what it may be? Thanks!
Youvsaid something about Ford making a change on the left side cam chain cassette, I took a left, ds cam out of a "013 and swaped it on my 2000 motor, the chain doesn't line up with the plastic guides, so is the cam different or the head or something else?
In a certain year ford shifted the head casting to make it extremely difficult to remove the cassette without breaking it. There’s a chance the cam you have doesn’t match the correct head casting.
Well hello there.Your video's have been an amazing help to me.Just lost the front timing cassette in my 2010 Ford ranger.Just removed the timing chain cover and noticed the shaft is not at top dead center.Does this matter? Do i just go ahead and replace the cassette as is? Thank you soooo much.
Well hello there.I've been watching your videos and they are amazing.You've been so much help to me as i am no mechanic.Thank yoi so much.So even though i drove it home for approximatly 45 minutes with no issues other than the rattle sound it still may have jumped time?
I hope you see this, I recently took my 2006 explorer to the mechanic and they did the whole time chain kit, when they installed the engine back, everything worked well except for the transmission, it does not engage, have you ever had this issue or heard about it?
Hi Nick in all of your videos I haven’t seen any thing on installing the front cover around the crank, did I over look one of your videos? I may have found my moisture problem in that I have pitting around the water ports. I remember one vid where you applied black rtv in the corners… would you or do you dab around the water ports? Thx
I don't even have a Ford ( F.ix O.r R.epair D.aily, LOL) but your video was SO Good I Subscribed for you anyway, Way to make a really Excellent Comprehensive Video with perfect picture VIDEO, awesome camera, with a Clean engine, SO many guys get on here with a greasy , smudged over engine that you can't see clearly, not to mention there's oil, grease, crap going into their work! THANK YOU, lets hope this raises the bar for TH-cam!! Thanks Again.
Ahhhh this comment made my day!! Thank you so much for the kind words. So glad you can appreciate the clear camera, directions, and clean workspace. You’re the best!!
Excellent video!!!! Can you answer the following? 1 . Time (hours) to remove engine outside? and 2. Time (hours) to install engine back in place? Thank you very much.
was just wondering how you could have a bent valve if you jumped timing, i thought it was a non interference engine? i could be wrong just little confused, but the video was very helpful thanks
What about these updated sprocket notes I see? When I look at timing sets, some mention needing to get the latest OE design front jackshaft, crankshaft, and balance shaft sprockets. Ever dealt with this? My engine is an 01. All original timing components.
If im only replacing the left front tensioner anything I need to do or can I just remove and install the new ford tensioner without worrying about chain jumping?
Great video man! You remind me of me when I was younger. I'm 41 now and I still do most of my own work. You have so much knowledge already and could go beyond doing these videos. I can see you doing an actual tv series garage show. Glad I found your vids! All likes from me and a Subscribe! ✌️😉
Man I wish there was a way for me to call you or to facetime you. I am stumped... My chain guide (the orange OEM) broke and I found it and a snap ring inside of my oil pan. What do? Should I fix it or just buy a new 4.0? What should I do to make sure this thing is still salvageable?
@@iamdjnam I am just now seeing this but I haven't been able to look due to working full time and running my own part time business. I should be able to take a look today or tomorrow.
Awesome video, Im from Australia and the TTY bolts are a 3 month wait from Ford Would it be worth risking reusing the jack shaft bolts these are not common motors here Thanks
Hello, good night, a question and they go don times that he changed the chains and this happens to me, he eats the guide of the chain in front and he runs out of time that could be
I'm having to replace the Passenger side Engine head due to the timing chain tensioner threads being damaged, and I was wondering how, if possible to replace it with out having to re time the engine? It comes with the camshaft. Could I put the old head at TDC and then set the new head on TDC?
2006 4.0 Mustang - 170k miles - Just started hearing the timing casette rattle at the front of the engine. Usually would have access to a garage to pull the engine and do everything at once - currently parked on the street in front of my house, and I dont want to drive it anymore than I have too. I see the service manual is showing that the driver side cassette and both tensioners are an in-vehicle repair, just wanted to confirm that was true before I pulled the valve covers and intake manifold off - It also mentions removing all the roller followers even though the cams are being held in place with the special tool - Is that just make sure you dont bend any valves? Might have a few more questions for you if I run into any problems - thanks for the video, very helpful.
I never remove the roller followers. The front chains can be replaced in vehicle. The rear replacement requires the engine to come out. Does it only rattle at startup? If so just keep driving it. My fathers has had startup rattle for over 50k. Any questions or comments email me. My address is in the description.
@@iamdjnam For some reason it didn't occur to me to pop the oil cap off and take a look in there, the casette looks like its broken so it's coming apart! I pulled the intake off, and all the electrical/lines/sensors off the valve covers, just need to break the bolts loose on them. Have you ever done one in a mustang? There's quite a bit of space but I was thinking I might take out the rad to get some extra room - not sure if I need to though. Thanks for the quick response, Ill let you know how it goes.
For anyone else that might see this video and comment - maybe it will help out - the job can be done pretty easy in a mustang at least - remove the radiator, shroud and fan and you will have plenty of room to work in the engine bay. Start with the Intake manifold, engine front cover - you can keep the water pump attached - Power steering pump and A/C compressor bracket needs to removed and slid forward - A/C lines can stay connected. With everything that needs to be disconnected to do the job in the vehicle, theres only a couple more bolts and wires to remove and the engine could be pulled without much more effort. Also - No balance shaft in the 06 mustangs. Thanks for the video!
I got everything torqued down and turned the engine over by hand a couple times to hydraulically charge the tensioner per cloyes instructions. The right bank cam stopped turning all of a sudden after a thunk that echoed out from the exhaust manifold. The left bank cam will turn with crank and stays in time but the right will not turn anymore. What has happened?
@@iamdjnam could it possibly be the new rear jackshaft bolt that just broke? I hope those torque to yield bolts aren't that weak. I torqued it to 15 ft lbs then 90 degrees
@@iamdjnam the rear jackshaft bolt just loosened all together. I guess it wasn't tight enough. I could barely get it to what was 90 degrees after torque
Hi. I have a question.I have a 2006 ford explorer with the 4.0. The timing slide in the back broke.Does that mean the heads are ruined as well or bent valves?Thanks
@@iamdjnam Im not sure.I bought the vehicle and she said the fuel pump went in it so im guessing it did just stall out but they also most likely continued to roll it over trying to start it back up and of course with me only going by what she said i also rolled it over to see if it would fire.Im only a half assed mechanic so could you explain the leak down test.Thank you for the reply,i appreciate it
Basically you thread a hose into the spark plug hole and charge the cylinder with air. Charge to 100psi. Any cylinder that holds below 70psi fails the test. So if you bent valves it would show 0
Not without removing the engine. You’d need to remove all of the timing components, oil pans, and install new crankshaft bearings and connecting rod bearings. Very labor intensive. I would suggest buying a new engine.
@@iamdjnam Thanks for the prompt reply. I just got this '05 Ranger with 101,000 on it. I'm not hearing any rattle, but learning about the issue and seeing some "generic" search results say replace guides at 80-120, 000 miles. So, my guess is, if I'm not hearing it, it's not time to worry about it.
Thanks for posting your many how to videos; well done. My current situation.... Full engine rebuild (with your guidance) and engine ran Great for 1k or so miles, but now oil pressure fluxuates from good to zero. I'm sure its not the oil pressure sensor as engine noise varies when pressure drops out. The ONLY part I did not replace was the two center jackshaft bearings and my research indicated this is possible cause; spun jackshaft bearing My question is it worth another engine removal to replace these bearings? I see the process won't be too involved or should I suspect further engine damage from particulates in oil causing further damage to other bearings and simply trash the engine? Have you delt with such a situation? Be well Gil
@@iamdjnam well that goes without saying.... my question was/is. Is it a positive gamble to replace these bearings post rebuild and now that oil pressure issues has shown its ugly face or is the possibility of greater engine damage not worth the effort? Engine has less than 1k miles since full rebuild, to include heads, full timing kit, piston rings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, seals, gaskets, etc.
@@dnseal install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and let me know what it reads. Not the stupid idiot light on the dash that shows normal even when it’s only 1psi
@@iamdjnam great idea and I was going to do so until I related pressure drop with engine chatter that occured simultaneously. Pressure goes back to steady; noise goes away. Pressure drops; engine chatters. I was hoping it was oil sensor issue, but signs point to spun jackshaft bearing; the only part I did not replace.... my bad. By the way, the reason for rebuild was that engine overheated; bad. My concern is if bearing damage distributed metal slivers (stuff) in engine oil and that inturn has damaged the rest of the bearings (main, piston etc) which are all new. Replacing those means all new TTY bolts, bearings, gaskets, and engine teardown. Heads, pistons and rings should be fine. I guess, my next step is to drain the oil and tear apart oil filter and see if there is metal visible. Normally, like you, I'd just have at it and redo tge engine but at 58 and recent stroke on august 26, my abilities are not what they use to be... smile Thanks for input, keep up the good work and although click, likes and whatnots seem to matter these days; the knowledge you possess has a far greater value. Be well Gil No
@@iamdjnam was just reviewing your "Ford 4.0l SOHC V6 Complete Rebuild Part 1/2" and I see at the 15 minute mark you jump right into front "drivers side" timing chain cassette installation. You already have the jackshaft in place; did and or do you replace the two jackshaft bearings on these rebuilds. I myself have rebuilt a few daily driver engines and typicaly do not replace them; I did on my performance engines. Sadly I did not replace on this daily driver ford engine and should have. I found a video on oil pressure fluxuation and cause; I will forward a link post this comment for you thoughts. In my case this seems to be the cause of my oil pressure dropping out. Be well Gil
I have a question if anybody would be willing to answer. DIY mechanic here, the guides on my front cassette broke and i'm in the process of replacing it. Just curious is there a way to just replace the guides on that chain without having to pull the cam sprocket off. My biggest concern is me getting the engine out of time. I don't have the means to pull the motor so i'm currently doing it with the motor still in. I see how you managed to do it without removing the jack shaft sprocket and chain. But I haven't seen anybody do it without removing the front camshaft sprocket.
Hi.I have a few questions hoping you might be able to answer.We just bought a 2006 ford explorer xlt sport utility and i think its the 4.0 in it. We tried starting it but it almost acts like its out of time.Is the timing a common thing with these engines?Also do the engines need to be out of the vehicle to redo the timing?And if the timing did go on this vehicle would it have hurt anything else like valves etc..?Thank you
Hello. The vehicle can be timed with the engine in it. Although you can’t replace the back timing components with the engine installed, it would have to come out. And yes, if the engine is out of time you will bend the valves.
Awsome job thanks so much for taking the time to make this video I liked the little chain idea you were very professional I still say Ford sucks for the plastic guides and putting the right side to the rear
What did you use to loosen the cam bolt? Got vise grips on the cam but can’t get it loose with a breaker bar. Great video for showing all the chains replacement. Very helpful!
Hi i am working on a 03 Explorer with a 4.0 eng how does that middle chain line up it has a color link on the chain and numbers and letters on the sprocket just wanting to know how does a lineup
Hi i talk to u yesterday about the timing on a 4.0explorer did everything like it's supposed to be done running kind of rough in a Cadillac converter r glowing red hot
Hello, I have a 04 explorer V6 2wd. I am doing the timing chain replacement but I am not sure if my explorer has a balance shaft. Is there a way to know before taking out the engine?
There’s no way to tell until opening it. Most 2WD explorer did not have one. But some of the engines from the previous year on the assembly line made their way in. Just order the kit without the balance shaft.
@@iamdjnam So, turns out I have a balance shaft 2wd. I have received the NON balance shaft kit. All components are tha same? Just remove the balance shaft chain and all is well?
I have a '91 Ford Ranger, 4.0L, auto with 200K. Doing an engine refresh. Your telling me that the timing chain and gears will last 400K miles and only need to replace the chain guides? Many years ago, I bought on EBay a new ADP Timing Chain Kit. Is this brand name junk and don't recommend using it or can I get by using only the chain guides from the kit?
So my cassete is vibrating on the front driver side do you think it's my hyd. Tensioner or do you think I have a blown cassette..imeen its vibration so bad that it's like loud tap.
It could be either. I’ve seen both. You can try replacing the hydraulic tensioner but keep in mind that the new pressure on the old cassette can burn it out quicker
There’s 19 people that do not like themselves and had nothing else to do on Monday night! Your are a genius.
Hahahah thank you! Much appreciated!
I don’t like myself either because sadly, I’m building one of these fucking things 😂
Had to pull my engine in my mustang because both sides blew, ended up just getting a used engine with less miles but I’m still doing this job while it’s out for longevity. Your video really cleared up a lot of my questions thank you!
Just pulled one out of a mustang today
I can’t thank you enough for this video! I have a 2006 mountaineer with 240,000 miles and the chain is slapping. Everyone tells me how horrid of a job this is, but I’m overall pretty mechanically inclined and with this video it inspired enough confidence in me to tackle it. I’ll update when I have the chain in if I’m able to get it going by myself
Thank you for this video, saves my life knowing I don't have to pull my engine to get to these chains like I was told by every shop in town!!!. you are very gifted. Thanks so much again
You’re welcome, please keep in mind that to replace the back chain you must remove the engine. All the fronts can be done with engine in vehicle. Thanks for watching!
@@iamdjnamThanks again. I'll let you you how it goes. Any suggestions on a brand for the best parts? So many bad reviews on these Ebay kits. I found a good deal on a Cloyes set.
Get the melling kit. Cloyes is made in taiwan.
Because they would wanna replace the rear chains while doing the front. I would.
My Haynes book says you remove the passenger side chain cassette with the engine in place; there is no way to do that.
Exactly how i have been doing these timing jobs. Glad to know im not the only one who does this with vice grips
Vice grips can be used for everything!
Fantastic video. I have a 2001 Limited with a lot of miles and I can hear my chain guides doing some noise already. Your videos help me a lot, I think I will just rebuild the entire engine so I have a fresh start.
Thank you young man, for the excellent video. Instructional, clear, and to the point. This helps me immensely on knowing how to proceed now and what parts i need to fix my engine. Top end of front cassette blew up and put a large crack/hole in the front of driver's side valve cover. Nice to know i can do the repair without pulling the engine. Fingers crossed the rear cassette never goes. I feel bad for you seeing only 57 Likes out of 1,080 views, this vid deserves more. New subscriber now. Well done and thanks again.
I appreciate your kind words. Thanks for the like and comment!
@@iamdjnam You're welcome.
I have the same problem on my 2006 .
Yes I too have the same problem, cracked the valve cover…. I do have a question, so after taking off the valve cover there is water! Now I had a a company replace my two tensioners and my thermostat housing 3 weeks ago because I was too busy now I have the cassette all shattered. What is your take on the antifreeze under valve covers? The oil is still relatively water free and not milky but oil cap has moisture?
100% normal for the cap to have moisture. Don’t worry about it.
This young man is great at making a video on this motor and he's very young I can tell he's only going to get better on this motor I'm working on one myself hence the reason I watch the video and I very glad I did
Thanks for the kind words! :)
Don't know if it has been mentioned anywhere else but, I just took out my 2003 4x2 XLT engine out for a complete rebuild...It's got a 4x4 balance shaft unit ... Definitely OEM installed. We are first and only owners; never worked-on by anyone else before..
Yup. Whatever’s left on the assembly line from the previous year they throw in.
Hi friend, thanks Ford this video. Very good. friend. Here what brand do you recommend from the kit? Here in my country they sell a Chinese brand that doesn't last long. It is low quality. the front left chain tensioner, what would happen if we made it fixed? I don't think there is any screw that goes inside this tensioner.
When I did my first 4.0 swap in my 07 Limited, your videos were not around. They would have helped alot, good work. As it happens I am pulling it out again, no compression on any bank 2 cylinders. We'll see what's what when I get it out and crack that head. My question is about the balance shaft. In one of your timing videos you removed the chain and sprocket all together. I believe you said you don't need it. My rig is a 2 WD, of course I will do a complete cassettes and guides replacement when I have it out, how can I be sure removing my balance shaft chain is ok for my vehicle. One less part of the 4.0 timing job is fine with me. You do good work, well done.
Funny you should say that. When I did my first rebuild there weren’t any videos. That’s why I started making them. Get rid of the balance shaft. It makes no difference and is one less rotating part.
My 2005 Explorer 4.0 has 188K on it and so far, so good on the timing stuff.....I will be putting a Reman in it for around 3500.00 if anything goes bad.
I cut my balance shaft chain off with bolt cutters. Worked pretty good. Did not feel like messing with the jackshaft. The tensioner for the balance shaft chain came apart. I heard the rattle under acceleration. I immediately stopped using my Explorer and started surgery. I deleted that chain and replaced all the guides and cassettes. Only 125k and the engine had been previously been into. Found all the front head threads for the brackets heli-coiled 🤬. I’m at least on my way back together with it.
Thanks for the vid. My 06 explorer blew the guide, poked it out the valve cover. The cheap easy way or to the dump she goes, got my money out of it already but we did it this way. Quick tip on that extra balancer chain, chop it off with a small bolt cutter, no mess, chopped right through it. New guide 30 bucks, ebay valve cover fifty bucks (probably could have used JB weld), tube of black RTV six bucks.
Damn right I’ve done that so many times. eBay guide and send it!
Would love a link to cheap guides that work. I just wanna replace the plastic and keep the metal and can't afford a huge kit
@m.w.6607 SA gear $130
Also I wanted to know how do I get the cam shafts back even with the heads , do I just turn them backwards to get them back in position or do I turn them click wise all the way around and what about the valves hiting the pistons and get bent or something .????? Can u please help me with this asap
If the cams don’t line up, you jumped time and bent the valves. You need to do a leakdown test to confirm.
What if it (umped timing on me, um the cam shafts r not even with the heads but my crank shaft is top dead center
I have that same flashlight. Ive broke it and fixed it about 12 times now. Cant live without it.
Get a better flashlight
@@Choke-fp8gm my friend gave it to me and he got killed 2 years ago. I have better ones but this one must live on.
I just picked up a sohc to install in my Bronco II. This video is a great help since I will replace chains before the swap.
Thanks so much! Although I probably wouldn’t tackle this myself, I have a better understanding of it’s workings! You e got a lot of knowledge for such a young Cat! Kudos!
I agree stebo46. I have a better understanding and this gentleman knows his stuff and can explain it well. Good job!
I am so thankful for this I do have a question can you leave the balance shaft chain off of a 2 wdr motor as well
If it’s 2WD it won’t come with a balance shaft. If you have one, leave the chain off but put the sprockets back on.
Great video love it ! I’m currently working on a 2003 ford explore 4.0
Thanks to your video I’m able to get it done right.
I have 2002 164k and 1,2,3 side has cracked valve cover and got misfire on cylinder 2 and 3, with no chain slap ever before hand. I hardly drove on the engine right after it happened backing out of driveway and drove down the rode and saw the misfire code and figure the guide broke on rear. I did compression test and around 130s on 1,2,3 and 185s on 456. I then tried to do leak down test on cylinder 3 like you said but it is keep moving from TDC when air is applied, as I can also see the crank turn 1/4 way. Is this common to happen on out of timed engine. How do I check the condition of heads before opening it up ?
What a stud! Great video, great attention to detail and the added time stamps are legit.
You say at the end that you checked your work with the tool. And? I'm assuming no adjustment needed. ??
I'm glad to see this video. I'm assembling the entire engine. I start with pistons and crankshaft tomorrow. I'd like to NOT have to pay for shipping for that timing tool. I'm actually asking a smith to make me a valve spring compressor from an old crowbar. I can press them fine with the head off, but once it's timed, I'm going to need something that doesn't clamp from underneath the head (and I don't want to install the head with the rockers in place and under pressure.) Exciting stuff! :)
I double checked everything with the OTC tool. It was good to go. Keep those cams clamped and you’ll be fine.
What do you do if you take everything apart without marking anything or holding the camshaft in place? How do I get my timing, right? I have a engine with the timing chains off but not sure how to get the camshaft in the correct place along with the time gears because they aren't marked and free spin. I'm pretty sure my camshaft has been turned out of place
You need to watch my head gasket video where I go over timing and how to properly use the OTC 6488 timing tool kit. The engine does not have timing marks or colored links. You need to have a confident understanding of this engine or you will destroy the valves
Can you illustrate on the cassette the location in which you use the pry bar to remove as well as the screw driver to install. Thanks This video described a lot of useful information.
Hey @Platinum Productions, you're videos have been a lifesaver as I break into my daughters 4.0L 2005 Ford Sport Trac. Quick question though. I have the valve covers off, but not the harmonic balancer and timing cover. Those are my next steps. I am planning on replacing the front timing chain because I did a compression test on cylinders 2 & 5 (middle cylinders on each side) and 2 (passenger side had 225lb compression (seems awful high) and 5 had zero compression. I did the test to see which side had lost compression because I suspected the engine jumped timing. My daughter was driving it and it shut off on her doing 55mph. And won't start back up. In fact, it turns over very slow. It's not a battery or alternator problem. Can a blown head gasket cause this same symptom? When I took the intake off, there was a significant amount of coolant puddled on the top of the engine block. The engine is still in the vehicle.
I appriciate your very informative and intuitive step-by-step explanations in your videos. I try to follow the same approach when I make my videos.
Yes depending on the location a headgasket can cause low compress
I've got 308k on mine and the guide just let loose. This is my weekend
2005 Sport Track 4.0L that wasn’t making any noise and suddenly the driver side (front) upper cassette timing guide gave way and a piece got jammed above the upper cam gear and valve cover breaking a hole in the valve cover. Engine makes a knocking noise but still starts and runs fine besides the knocking noise. I’m wondering if the valves are striking the piston that’s causing the noise? Otherwise, replacing the driver side cassette would be simple enough. The truck has 280k miles.
No shut it off immediately and you can replace just the guide for like $50 without removing the engine. Don’t run it again though because the next time you do, you’ll strike the valves.
I turned my motor over by hand with timing chain off no compression pulled head of all me exhaust valves are stuck open. Each piston looks to have made contact with the valves.😬
Yes that’s the good old fashioned death of the 4.0
This job you have to remove the engine from the explorer ???
It’s easier to
@@iamdjnam How long did it take you to remove the engine ??
Like 4 hours
@@iamdjnamTHANKS for the information.
Appreciate the video. This is the only one I actually found useful
My wife drove her 2004 4.0 sohc explorer 590,000 miles before it jumpped time. I am a retired ford tech, i bought the 04 explorer off lease with 28,000 miles flushed all fluids and changed to amsoil products even in the differential. annual coolant flushes.. service is the key and i swear by amsoil prouducts. Have the engine out clean as pin inside warped a few valves on drivers head. Since i can do the valves myself thinking of putting it back to running since the trans only has 18,000 miles on it. she wants it back running she don't like the ford edge (travelling nurse). That exploder has been all over the usa and has had the holy shit ran outta of it cause she drives like a bat outta hell. she gets blue lightted several times a month pulled over, when she tells them hospice nurse they let her go.
Just rebuild the whole thing at this point
Question, is the Crank Timing gear beveled on one side? I ask because after my rebuild the crank pulley is out by 1/4 inch and eating belts after 150 miles. I suspect that this gear may be in backwards pushing pulley out the 1/4"
Thanks.
Great Video.
So surprised watching this, you know what you are doing. Great video!
hello, just a quick question on the balance shaft chain delete, will leaving the upper chain guide off lead to no oil pressure? i just did the timing chains front and rear on my '01, and i left the balance shaft chain and upper guide off, and now it won't build oil pressure. hydraulic tensioners are slopping like crazy and i got nothing on a mechanical gauge. thinking maybe those bolts are open to the oil galley way on the back side er something. Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
Following as i’m doing mine as well
@@jasonportillo2717 I just did an air pressure test on my oil system and it wasn't coming out of the bolt holes so yer good that way
@@gavinchambers6892 no problems without the guides?
How many miles have u been running it that way
@@jasonportillo2717 oh no i haven't driven it like this, i still have an issue with oil pressure, but i pressure tested the oil system as i thought maybe it was being lost through the guide bolt holes, which it isn't
@@gavinchambers6892 If your guides broke you might have a clog in your oil pump and i’d drop the pan to replace it.
I have my heads off and did exactly everything you showed, I noticed one of the cams slightly rotated just a hair and isn’t perfectly parallel to the head anymore. Do I rotate it back to parallel then install the cam holding tool to make it stay put while I put the new chain on??
Yes
@@iamdjnam when I get all the chains and cassettes on, I can turn the engine over by hand, make sure everything is ok, then put the timing cover back on?
@@bluegill2030 yup for sure
so i just used these and changed all my chains, cassettes, gears, and tensioners. i thought i did it correctly and triple checked everything, but when i turn the engine over now there are spots where the tensioner guide will pivot, causing varying slack in the chain as the tensioner pushes in and out against the guide. is this normal? i cant seem to find and faults in how i installed it
Completely normal. Once the engine is running oil fills the tensioner and it won’t move like that.
@@iamdjnam man i cannot express the peace of mind you just gave me lol these engines like to throw one curveball after another. this is day 3 of working on her and i think i needed to hear some good news for once!
After working on these engines it makes me want to buy a Tahoe with their old iron block pushrod v8.
I'm hearing some new noises in my wifes mountaineer and got a quote for the timing chain and water pump replacement today... with tax it's almost $6200! I wish you lived in Colorado Springs... 😔
Two of my Ford Rangers have the 4.0L SOHC engine. Both of them were making a loud noise that turned out to be the water pump. Water pump shaft bearing was the issue.
@@nofortunatesonII A few weeks later there was a coolant leak one morning. I ended up replacing the water pump and that seems to have fixed both issues
The rear chain appears to be tight and guides good. The front guides were gone. Do I need to replace the rear chain as well?
Nah
On the cam on the RIGHT which way should the other end with the gap be turned?
Bottom
I have a 05 Ford Explorer with the 4.0 v6 that has a tapping sound. After replacing the injectors. Can’t figure out where it’s coming from. I replaced both timing chain tensioners and primed them with clean oil. Thought that could be the problem. It still makes that sound. It’s coming from the front of the engine. And no it’s not making that known rattling sound from the chains. The engine only has 170k miles on it. What are your thoughts that I should check? Any suggestions I greatly appreciate it.
Pull the valve covers.
@@iamdjnam I did check all of the valve lash adjusters and roller followers. They all are fine. Now would the chain guides etc behind the water pump make a tapping sound?
Hello! Please tell me after replacing the replacement of the repair kit on a Ford Explorer 4.0 sohc began knocking and began to pour oil from the valve cover of the left head into the intake manifold in the 3 and 4 cylinders because of what it may be? Thanks!
Did a chunk of plastic come blasting thru the valve cover?
Youvsaid something about Ford making a change on the left side cam chain cassette, I took a left, ds cam out of a "013 and swaped it on my 2000 motor, the chain doesn't line up with the plastic guides, so is the cam different or the head or something else?
In a certain year ford shifted the head casting to make it extremely difficult to remove the cassette without breaking it. There’s a chance the cam you have doesn’t match the correct head casting.
Well hello there.Your video's have been an amazing help to me.Just lost the front timing cassette in my 2010 Ford ranger.Just removed the timing chain cover and noticed the shaft is not at top dead center.Does this matter? Do i just go ahead and replace the cassette as is? Thank you soooo much.
The engine may have jumped time. You need to check for valve damage
Well hello there.I've been watching your videos and they are amazing.You've been so much help to me as i am no mechanic.Thank yoi so much.So even though i drove it home for approximatly 45 minutes with no issues other than the rattle sound it still may have jumped time?
And my apologies.I should have mentioned that i drove it home for approx 45 minutes with no issues.
I hope you see this, I recently took my 2006 explorer to the mechanic and they did the whole time chain kit, when they installed the engine back, everything worked well except for the transmission, it does not engage, have you ever had this issue or heard about it?
Torque converter probably popped out and they didn’t reseat it all the way.
@@iamdjnam It turned out to be that somehow the transmission had 3 quarts of oil missing… 😂
@@ddupinsus probably came out of the cooler lines when he disconnected them to get the engine out
Hi Nick in all of your videos I haven’t seen any thing on installing the front cover around the crank, did I over look one of your videos? I may have found my moisture problem in that I have pitting around the water ports. I remember one vid where you applied black rtv in the corners… would you or do you dab around the water ports? Thx
It’s shown towards the end of my headgasket video.
Hey brother What about that top center cog that the chain attached to? Is that just a roller for the chain to move on?
Quick question, when removing the jackshaft sprocket to get to the chain, do I need both camshafts vice gripped?
It’s always better safe than sorry. Clamp both cams.
I don't even have a Ford ( F.ix O.r R.epair D.aily, LOL) but your video was SO Good I Subscribed for you anyway, Way to make a really Excellent Comprehensive Video with perfect picture VIDEO, awesome camera, with a Clean engine, SO many guys get on here with a greasy , smudged over engine that you can't see clearly, not to mention there's oil, grease, crap going into their work! THANK YOU, lets hope this raises the bar for TH-cam!! Thanks Again.
Ahhhh this comment made my day!! Thank you so much for the kind words. So glad you can appreciate the clear camera, directions, and clean workspace. You’re the best!!
Excellent video!!!! Can you answer the following? 1 . Time (hours) to remove engine outside? and 2. Time (hours) to install engine back in place? Thank you very much.
was just wondering how you could have a bent valve if you jumped timing, i thought it was a non interference engine? i could be wrong just little confused, but the video was very helpful thanks
It’s an interference engine.
What about these updated sprocket notes I see? When I look at timing sets, some mention needing to get the latest OE design front jackshaft, crankshaft, and balance shaft sprockets. Ever dealt with this? My engine is an 01. All original timing components.
They’re full of crap. Use the original jackshaft and crank sprocket you’ll never have an issue.
If im only replacing the left front tensioner anything I need to do or can I just remove and install the new ford tensioner without worrying about chain jumping?
Set it to TDC then remove it
@iamdjnam top dead center on #1cylender?how is that going to stop the left can chain from jumping?
@shahrampeyman614 because all the valves are closed and the tension of the valve springs won’t snap the cam backwards (if you’re guide is broken)
@@iamdjnam I must be missing something,how do you figure all the valves are closed?
Like I said, all the valves are closed at TDC.
Thanks so much God bless you
Great video man! You remind me of me when I was younger. I'm 41 now and I still do most of my own work. You have so much knowledge already and could go beyond doing these videos. I can see you doing an actual tv series garage show. Glad I found your vids! All likes from me and a Subscribe! ✌️😉
Thanks very helpful. And from such a young man. Lol no matter you know what your doing and you helped me out alot thanks.
Same here I'm 43 I've done a few timing chain jobs but not any fords thanks for sharing with the rest of the classroom
This is terrific and a great overview of the 4.0 engine! I did not know these things! Thanks!!!
Man I wish there was a way for me to call you or to facetime you. I am stumped... My chain guide (the orange OEM) broke and I found it and a snap ring inside of my oil pan. What do? Should I fix it or just buy a new 4.0? What should I do to make sure this thing is still salvageable?
If the engine still runs and didn’t jump time, just fix the guide. We can discuss further. Send me an email. Located in the description.
What kind of car did this happen on? How many miles?
@@iamdjnam I am just now seeing this but I haven't been able to look due to working full time and running my own part time business. I should be able to take a look today or tomorrow.
@@jerrysummer69 this was on a 2002 explorer xlt rwd but the engine is a 2004 4.0 SOHC with 202,XXX miles
Awesome video,
Im from Australia and the TTY bolts are a 3 month wait from Ford
Would it be worth risking reusing the jack shaft bolts these are not common motors here
Thanks
If it snaps I won’t be held liable. So I’m telling you no….but we both know what can be done.
Haha thanks ,
Might add some lock tight hopefully she'll be right
Don’t! The metal twists and stretches. It won’t loosen it’ll just twist right off. Leave loctite out of it.
Is there a difference in the rear camshaft to jackshaft chain and the front one? I am having a difficult time getting one of the chains to fit.
No both jackshaft to camshaft chains are the same.
Are the slots on the camshaft perfectly flush? Super exact? They don't both lean slightly in or anything?
Mine had a rattle them a power lose. Do u think it jump time are these a tolerance engine that might affect the valves
It’s an interference engine. You will bend valves if you jump time.
Yeah after looking at the gasket kit, rtv all along the bottom… orange or black you used black on the girdle?
Black permatex is the one designed for oil. I use whatever they include in the eBay gasket set.
@@iamdjnam Thx again I may get something done as I have a day off!
Sounds good! Lmk if u need anything.
Hi There: Do You Use The Same Bolts That You Loose Or Use A New Ones On The Camshaft ??
Reuse
Sir what is substitute for engine 4.0 explorer to diesel engine
Hello, good night, a question and they go don times that he changed the chains and this happens to me, he eats the guide of the chain in front and he runs out of time that could be
The engine could’ve jumped time due to bad or worn out guides. You need to check that you didn’t bend valves before proceeding with this.
I'm having to replace the Passenger side Engine head due to the timing chain tensioner threads being damaged, and I was wondering how, if possible to replace it with out having to re time the engine?
It comes with the camshaft. Could I put the old head at TDC and then set the new head on TDC?
It’s risky business. One tooth off and the whole motor is trashed. I highly recommend buying the cam tool kit then returning it or something.
Do I need to revmove water pump and compressor to remove the cover?
Going to attempt while still in vehicle
Water pump stays on, AC compressor move to the side
I really appreciate what you're doing. You're good at the work and good at the video editing. Very impressive.
Ill be doing this next week in the truck just the front i did the rear cassettes like a year ago
2006 4.0 Mustang - 170k miles - Just started hearing the timing casette rattle at the front of the engine. Usually would have access to a garage to pull the engine and do everything at once - currently parked on the street in front of my house, and I dont want to drive it anymore than I have too. I see the service manual is showing that the driver side cassette and both tensioners are an in-vehicle repair, just wanted to confirm that was true before I pulled the valve covers and intake manifold off - It also mentions removing all the roller followers even though the cams are being held in place with the special tool - Is that just make sure you dont bend any valves? Might have a few more questions for you if I run into any problems - thanks for the video, very helpful.
I never remove the roller followers. The front chains can be replaced in vehicle. The rear replacement requires the engine to come out. Does it only rattle at startup? If so just keep driving it. My fathers has had startup rattle for over 50k. Any questions or comments email me. My address is in the description.
@@iamdjnam For some reason it didn't occur to me to pop the oil cap off and take a look in there, the casette looks like its broken so it's coming apart! I pulled the intake off, and all the electrical/lines/sensors off the valve covers, just need to break the bolts loose on them. Have you ever done one in a mustang? There's quite a bit of space but I was thinking I might take out the rad to get some extra room - not sure if I need to though. Thanks for the quick response, Ill let you know how it goes.
@@HoLiDaY105 Its so much easier to take the rad out and have more working space. Worth the time to get as much as you can out of the way.
For anyone else that might see this video and comment - maybe it will help out - the job can be done pretty easy in a mustang at least - remove the radiator, shroud and fan and you will have plenty of room to work in the engine bay. Start with the Intake manifold, engine front cover - you can keep the water pump attached - Power steering pump and A/C compressor bracket needs to removed and slid forward - A/C lines can stay connected. With everything that needs to be disconnected to do the job in the vehicle, theres only a couple more bolts and wires to remove and the engine could be pulled without much more effort. Also - No balance shaft in the 06 mustangs. Thanks for the video!
I always pull the motor. Why do 3/4 when all that’s left is 2 motor mounts and the bell housing?
what is the best alternative to buying the fomoco parts? Pricing is allover the place.
Melling, PCI, SA Gear. In that order.
Hello and tanks for the help I have a cuestión the jack shaft have been on time too
Do you like that Milwaukee electric ratchet? Does it hold up pretty well? I want one I’m done buying snap on stuff
Absolutely love it
Platinum garage, what is the name of the bag on top of the engine underneath the intake manifold, what is it for...????
It’s a sound dampener. You don’t need it. I always throw it out.
@@iamdjnam thanks dude
witaj co to moze byc po odpaleniu przez chwile na dole silnika z lewej strony cos grzechocze przez 10 secund a potem jest ok?
I got everything torqued down and turned the engine over by hand a couple times to hydraulically charge the tensioner per cloyes instructions. The right bank cam stopped turning all of a sudden after a thunk that echoed out from the exhaust manifold. The left bank cam will turn with crank and stays in time but the right will not turn anymore. What has happened?
I have no idea
@@iamdjnam could it possibly be the new rear jackshaft bolt that just broke? I hope those torque to yield bolts aren't that weak. I torqued it to 15 ft lbs then 90 degrees
@@briancraft777 that’s the proper torque. Not sure what could’ve happened. Can’t diagnose without being there.
@@iamdjnam I will let you know once I crack it back open and take a look this afternoon. Maybe it will be helpful to others
@@iamdjnam the rear jackshaft bolt just loosened all together. I guess it wasn't tight enough. I could barely get it to what was 90 degrees after torque
Are these the same steps for the 05-09 4.0 mustang timing cassette?
Yes
Why did Ford put the balance shaft chain on the engine if not needed? Is it true that it is only used on 4WD models?
They put them because engineers hate mechanics
Hi. I have a question.I have a 2006 ford explorer with the 4.0. The timing slide in the back broke.Does that mean the heads are ruined as well or bent valves?Thanks
Do a leak down test to confirm. Depends how bad. Did it stop running completely?
@@iamdjnam Im not sure.I bought the vehicle and she said the fuel pump went in it so im guessing it did just stall out but they also most likely continued to roll it over trying to start it back up and of course with me only going by what she said i also rolled it over to see if it would fire.Im only a half assed mechanic so could you explain the leak down test.Thank you for the reply,i appreciate it
Basically you thread a hose into the spark plug hole and charge the cylinder with air. Charge to 100psi. Any cylinder that holds below 70psi fails the test. So if you bent valves it would show 0
@@iamdjnam Ok thanks so much.You have been incredibly helpful.Have a great holiday season
Hey man I just find out that the name of the shaft broke is called crankshaft do you the I can be replace able??
Not without removing the engine. You’d need to remove all of the timing components, oil pans, and install new crankshaft bearings and connecting rod bearings. Very labor intensive. I would suggest buying a new engine.
Can use the old bearings if they are in good shape
What is the recommended milage for replacing the timing chain guides?
I don’t replace them until they break. I’ve seen them past 225k.
@@iamdjnam Thanks for the prompt reply. I just got this '05 Ranger with 101,000 on it. I'm not hearing any rattle, but learning about the issue and seeing some "generic" search results say replace guides at 80-120, 000 miles. So, my guess is, if I'm not hearing it, it's not time to worry about it.
@@iamdjnam So, won't it jump time and bend valves and such if one breaks, or does the chain just begin to make the noise once the guide wears out?
@@jimmymundane1084 chain makes noise when the guide breaks. When the chain breaks or jumps a tooth, you bend all the valves and trash the engine.
Thanks for posting your many how to videos; well done.
My current situation....
Full engine rebuild (with your guidance) and engine ran Great for 1k or so miles, but now oil pressure fluxuates from good to zero. I'm sure its not the oil pressure sensor as engine noise varies when pressure drops out. The ONLY part I did not replace was the two center jackshaft bearings and my research indicated this is possible cause; spun jackshaft bearing
My question is it worth another engine removal to replace these bearings? I see the process won't be too involved or should I suspect further engine damage from particulates in oil causing further damage to other bearings and simply trash the engine?
Have you delt with such a situation?
Be well
Gil
The engine must be removed to replace those bearings.
@@iamdjnam well that goes without saying.... my question was/is.
Is it a positive gamble to replace these bearings post rebuild and now that oil pressure issues has shown its ugly face or is the possibility of greater engine damage not worth the effort?
Engine has less than 1k miles since full rebuild, to include heads, full timing kit, piston rings, main bearings, oil pump, water pump, seals, gaskets, etc.
@@dnseal install a mechanical oil pressure gauge and let me know what it reads. Not the stupid idiot light on the dash that shows normal even when it’s only 1psi
@@iamdjnam great idea and I was going to do so until I related pressure drop with engine chatter that occured simultaneously.
Pressure goes back to steady; noise goes away. Pressure drops; engine chatters.
I was hoping it was oil sensor issue, but signs point to spun jackshaft bearing; the only part I did not replace.... my bad.
By the way, the reason for rebuild was that engine overheated; bad.
My concern is if bearing damage distributed metal slivers (stuff) in engine oil and that inturn has damaged the rest of the bearings (main, piston etc) which are all new. Replacing those means all new TTY bolts, bearings, gaskets, and engine teardown.
Heads, pistons and rings should be fine.
I guess, my next step is to drain the oil and tear apart oil filter and see if there is metal visible.
Normally, like you, I'd just have at it and redo tge engine but at 58 and recent stroke on august 26, my abilities are not what they use to be... smile
Thanks for input, keep up the good work and although click, likes and whatnots seem to matter these days; the knowledge you possess has a far greater value.
Be well
Gil
No
@@iamdjnam was just reviewing your "Ford 4.0l SOHC V6 Complete Rebuild Part 1/2" and I see at the 15 minute mark you jump right into front "drivers side" timing chain cassette installation. You already have the jackshaft in place; did and or do you replace the two jackshaft bearings on these rebuilds.
I myself have rebuilt a few daily driver engines and typicaly do not replace them; I did on my performance engines.
Sadly I did not replace on this daily driver ford engine and should have.
I found a video on oil pressure fluxuation and cause; I will forward a link post this comment for you thoughts.
In my case this seems to be the cause of my oil pressure dropping out.
Be well
Gil
I just want to change my guides and cassettes, do you know what brand is reliable that sells just those? I don't want to pay for chains or cogs.
Excellent video
Are you Christ fix brother or related you sound like him
I have a question if anybody would be willing to answer. DIY mechanic here, the guides on my front cassette broke and i'm in the process of replacing it. Just curious is there a way to just replace the guides on that chain without having to pull the cam sprocket off. My biggest concern is me getting the engine out of time. I don't have the means to pull the motor so i'm currently doing it with the motor still in. I see how you managed to do it without removing the jack shaft sprocket and chain. But I haven't seen anybody do it without removing the front camshaft sprocket.
You can’t pull the cassette without removing the camshaft gears
@@iamdjnam yeah that's what i was afraid of. Hopefully i can do it and keep the engine in time.
Do u have to remove the motor from the truck to replace left side front timing chain....
Figured it out mahalo though
Hi.I have a few questions hoping you might be able to answer.We just bought a 2006 ford explorer xlt sport utility and i think its the 4.0 in it. We tried starting it but it almost acts like its out of time.Is the timing a common thing with these engines?Also do the engines need to be out of the vehicle to redo the timing?And if the timing did go on this vehicle would it have hurt anything else like valves etc..?Thank you
Hello. The vehicle can be timed with the engine in it. Although you can’t replace the back timing components with the engine installed, it would have to come out. And yes, if the engine is out of time you will bend the valves.
Awsome job thanks so much for taking the time to make this video I liked the little chain idea you were very professional I still say Ford sucks for the plastic guides and putting the right side to the rear
What did you use to loosen the cam bolt? Got vise grips on the cam but can’t get it loose with a breaker bar. Great video for showing all the chains replacement. Very helpful!
19mm with breaker bar. Front sprocket is regular thread. Rear sprocket is reverse thread.
So, I don't have to pull the engine to do the front timing chains and tensioner? It looks as though I could do it in the vehicle.
i’m doing it rn for just the front and the motor is still in
What would you charge to replace the timing chains on a 2005 Sport Trac 4.0L?
I wouldnt touch a sport trac with a 10 foot pole.
It’s my brother’s. I hate that engine. The Sport Trac bed is so useless.
Great Video but is it ok to eliminate the balance shaft chain??
Yes
Hi i am working on a 03 Explorer with a 4.0 eng how does that middle chain line up it has a color link on the chain and numbers and letters on the sprocket just wanting to know how does a lineup
Nothing lines up. It’s all done up top with the cams. Make sure crank is at 12:00.
@@iamdjnam so it doesn't matter where the color link is and the number and letters go
Nope
@@iamdjnam okay got it at 12:00 Thank u sir
Hi i talk to u yesterday about the timing on a 4.0explorer did everything like it's supposed to be done running kind of rough in a Cadillac converter r glowing red hot
Do you have to pull the engine to do this job or is it just easier to record?
If you’re doing the front the engine can stay in. Rear engine must be removed.
Howsit, please could you help me with this 4.0L V6 - it has a EGR low voltage after I carried out the repair as per your video
Low voltage is related to wiring and not the engine. Check your connections.
Hello, I have a 04 explorer V6 2wd. I am doing the timing chain replacement but I am not sure if my explorer has a balance shaft. Is there a way to know before taking out the engine?
There’s no way to tell until opening it. Most 2WD explorer did not have one. But some of the engines from the previous year on the assembly line made their way in. Just order the kit without the balance shaft.
@@iamdjnam So, turns out I have a balance shaft 2wd. I have received the NON balance shaft kit. All components are tha same? Just remove the balance shaft chain and all is well?
Correct.
I have a '91 Ford Ranger, 4.0L, auto with 200K. Doing an engine refresh. Your telling me that the timing chain and gears will last 400K miles and only need to replace the chain guides? Many years ago, I bought on EBay a new ADP Timing Chain Kit. Is this brand name junk and don't recommend using it or can I get by using only the chain guides from the kit?
The 91 is a totally different engine.
So my cassete is vibrating on the front driver side do you think it's my hyd. Tensioner or do you think I have a blown cassette..imeen its vibration so bad that it's like loud tap.
It could be either. I’ve seen both. You can try replacing the hydraulic tensioner but keep in mind that the new pressure on the old cassette can burn it out quicker
So if you blew the front cassette and had both tensioners replaced 3 weeks before it blew up is the rear going to blow or are they a little beefier?
Rear is weaker than the front.
@@iamdjnam where you located? How much you charge me to do my motor?
$500 labor if you bring me the engine and the parts.
AWESOME information man!!! Perfect work around love that you found a way around what "THEY SAY" AWESOME