Hello Stefan, Thank you for doing ALL that you are doing with posting these videos! You are changing our world for the better, advancing knowledge globally! You are not a selfish man. Thank you!
One of the things I like most about your channel is tools that you make for yourself. It's changed the way that I look at my projects. Nicely done, sir. Sincerely, Tom Z
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) I always stated that I am a model engineer, but it seems more and more that it was not true ;) What I enjoy most is making tools, jigs and machines :D Thanks for dropping by, Tom!
An excellent subject, very practical, and of course well executed. Your videos are always top notch, and I always look forward to viewing them. Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful work.
Well made and great design! I once made a very small one to bore 8mm holes and spent a lot of time filing a hole for a square tool blank. This definitely shows that round tool blanks work just as well, then the holder is 10x easier to make!
I'm in need of a small boring bar like this. It's now on my to do list. I like the split clamping idea. I mayhaps will try this out with the shaper also. Thanks for the video, CJ
Now they are nice little boring bars. I do like the clamping mechanism. So much more secure than just a grub screw. I'll definitely be making myself some.
Another great video. Well done. I liked the fact that you acknowledged the original designers for the bar. very humble of you. looking forward to the next video
Nice bars, I especially like the lock on the little ones. I ran a 3" bar on a HBM once that was split like those you did and it seemed more prone to chatter than the ones that were solid with set screws locking the cutters. This was of course on a big machine with a fair bit of tool sticking out so probably not a comparison, but just an observation.
+bcbloc02 I would absolutely agree that a split boring bar is less rigid than a solid one, but the forces on my small machines are a bit more manageable than on a big lathe or a HBM. So far they worked out fine :)
Hi Stefan, That's pretty much exactly how I do mini-boring bars. I only found your channel about 2 weeks ago but I'm finding it very inspiring, actually got into garage to play with machines for first time in months. My mini bars don't look anything like as nice as yours but they are functional to do a specific job (can't remember what now but only took around 45 mins to make one to bore something) I really should get around to 'finishing' them so they look nicer .
Nice! This just made my to-do list. Looks like you use some pretty good quality taps...I think mine would have definitely broken when tapping drill rod. Love those Knipex pliers!
Very interesting and timely. I've been struggling with large drill bits on a very lightweight lathe. Getting a lot of chatter and not much actual cutting. Decided to take the plunge and use a boring bar for the first time. Using an Aloris tool holder with a boring tool from H. R. Warner. This tool uses HSS triangular inserts that are very pointy. The sharp points remove metal but leave tiny "threads" down the bore. I'm now thinking I should make myself some boring bars as you have. That small rounding on the end of the tool seems likely to provide a better finish. Maybe I should try a little touch up to the Warner insert first.
Another Nice series on simple yet practical Tooling-out Well presented and explained Thanks for Sharing - even if they were other's ideas. Credit was duly given. Keep 'em rolling aRM
What is the advantage of a 90° boring bar over a 45° one ? I guess the later can do more (turn to an internal shoulder), I don't see why you would need a 90° bar
I have made this style boring bar in the past. Rather than boring all the way from the bottom up you can go in from the side underneath the 45 tap it for whatever size is appropriate and make a little wedge with a rounded Edge as your push rod from the side. It works perfectly
I'm more than a little envious of that rack fed tailstock addition you have for doing deep hole drilling like you did here. And I'm more than sure if George Thomas was still alive he'd also be a subscriber to your channel Stefan. As always very well explained, videoed, edited, and machined tooling. I always hesitate to mention much since your obviously more than knowledgeable. But I know even a few retired professional machinist's and tool and die makers who still hadn't ever heard of them. Try Googeling images for a Goniostat if you don't already know about this type of tool. They were used a lot by Ornamental Turners to hone there tools on a stone to the finest edge possible. T.D. Walshaw (Tubal Cain) has some detail about them in his book Ornamental Turning. One of those would be a fast and easy way to final hone pretty much any lathe and boring tool other than form tools. The end radius would still need to be done by hand.
Hmm I noticed the holder is at an angle. At a guess, is this to increase rigidity by having the longer base of the tool holder in line with the forces of the tool?
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+Stefan Gotteswinter Re: The indexable tool holder in your lathe at 9:45. I grind my own diamond head tools but it looks like a CCMT mounted 90 deg left hand. I've been looking for something like this forever. Is it manufatured or shop made? Can you share some info on the tool holder?
+Belair_Boy Yeah, It was some time until the last videos..but I had a lot of going on, so shoptime was very little and time for editing was even more limited :)
+ChrisB257 Go for it! Nothing is more boring than not having the right boring bar (and you never have the right boring bar for the job anyway...even if you have them all!)
Do you harden the bars after? If not, why use drill rod? Is it tougher even in the annealed condition? Did you get the idea for these from the GHT book? I love that book. Thanks for another great vid.
No I keep them soft - Drillrod because it comes as nice centerless ground material (And its higher strength then say mild steel, so threads will hold better up)
Nice true running on your saw arbors. You definitely have the hands of a machinist. Minor flesh wounds all in the line of duty ! : ) Just got GT books per your recommendation, lots of nice ideas.
I love your videos Stefan and although quite experienced myself I have picked up loads of use tips and ideas from you. Just one point, after you have cut the bit to length you won't be able to pull it out much when you come to sharpen it. For sharpening short bits I use a straight bar with a hole drilled in the centre.Kind RegardsBill White.
Great work as usual. I absolutely agree about cutting angles, the tool will cut with a bit of rake and a bit of clearance, precise angles are generally unnecessary. In fact i think this is one of the reasons beginners go straight to insert tooling as they are put off grinding their own, thinking the tool wont work unless it is exactly right for the material being cut. On the long drilling topic, in those circumstances, I would have drilled the larger size first to give more room for swarf clearance, but it's the old "ask a dozen engineers for a solution and getting a dozen different, but correct, answers" story.
Stefan, I guess on the longer bars you could always drill towards the center from both ends, as an afterthought if the pressure pin ever got stuck in the bore there would always be an orifice for punching out, of course pin getting stuck likely would never happen, but the old saying better to be safe than sorry is always on my mind,
Thank you for another excellent video! I like the push rod holding used on the 8mm bars. Could you do it similarly on the larger bars by drilling in from the bit end and having a tapered cross screw to put pressure on the bar? The screw would bear on the inboard end of the bar, not the side of it. The same mechanism as you used in your lathe cross slide dial.
You know for the larger boring bars I really don't understand the slit. Could you please explain why the slit is necessary because I've made these without a slit and just a set screw and they work absolutely perfectly I've been a little embarrassed and hesitant to ask this question
Ha! Clicked the like button already after 3 minutes. Another cool video with instructional content well worth the watch. As you know yourself, you do very nice work (both as machinist and videographer), but you should also know that you have my respect. That is a nice way of fastening the tool steel with the push rod and set screw. Excellent solution. Thanks for sharing, Stefan. ps Video, as you know, shines particularly well when displaying close-up shots. I would suggest that when you consider adding an extra feature that would help the viewer, you add close-up or extreme close-up shots - even stills would be quite useful - to your already fine videos. I would have liked to have seen close-up shots inserted on several of your videos so I could have better seen what you have done. The honing shots are an excellent example although perhaps your camera has a "macro" setting for even closer work to show for example the radius on your cutting bit. You work certainly can bear close scrutiny!
So why did you not grind the other end of the cutting tool when it was still long and make two bits from one bar? It would save time and money to do that.
Stefan, very nice instructional video. Thanks for sharing. BTW, I too use 1/8" (yeah, inch crap) but close to 3 mm HSS 10% Cobalt for my boring bars made to GHT design but also for lathe tools mounted in a GHT tool holder. Love you videos. Bob
Thanks Stefan, pretty nice boring bars. By the way, I took time to make twice today to use with my chineese boring head. The next step is a new home made boring head for tinies bores. ;-) Didier Yvron
Super noob question. For drilling into drill rod, what material drill bits do you need? Drill rod is basically HSS right? so don't you need something stronger than HSS to drill into HSS? Like carbide?
Drill rod when delivered is soft and can be drilled with any HSS drill. While drill rod can be hardened and is a toolsteel, HSS is again a different alloy that behaves different (More resistance to heat before losing its hardness)
Hi Stefan, I bought some tool steel to make a set of boring bars. I got as far as tapping the first hole on the 8mm boring bar, but the spiral tap broke off inside. I was tapping by hand in the lathe, using the tail stock to keep the tap aligned. I'm thinking I won't be able to finish what I started. Any suggestions you may have for me would be appreciated. Thank you, and take care!
You probably already did this, but considering the price of tool steel I would just start over. Make sure to use plenty of cutting/tapping oil and go slow.
+rol eic I can change the cutting bit within a few seconds to another form - threading, internal groves, plain boring, roughing, highspeed steel or carbide :) For even smaller diameters I would use brazed carbide or even solid carbide boring bars :)
+Stefan Gotteswinter You made two types: one with 90° tool angle for through holes and one with 45° for pocket holes. Why not use the 45°-design also for through holes? stick-out length? chatter?
+rol eic Hope I'm not showing bad form answering your questions.... The 90° has a couple of advantages over the 45° in given circumstance. For heavier cuts it is more stable (tool geometry) & is less likely to have the cutting bit pushed back into the holder. Also with a 90° you can do internal grooving. You would have to grind too much away on the 45° bit to meet the required cutting geometry. Great video Stefan! As usual, nice design & quality workmanship to back it :)
Nice to hear another machinist say " Eyeballing, good enough, That's all it needs...." this makes the work as simple as it needs to be.... !!! Do you have a 150 kg, KITTEN..... ????? Did you try to remove his food dish before he was full.... ??? Just wondering, with all those scratches on your hands............ LOL Enjoyed, interesting video... ;)
Hi Stefan, are you using carbide drill bits for drilling in HSS steel? Thanks again. Edit: You only say HSS in the title, and do not mention steel type in the video. I got some round HSS toolbits blanks, to have some around when needed, but want to make a threading tool for internal threads with long stickout (45mm). The small threading bar I have is too soft, and flex when I try to cut an 45 mm long internal 2.0 pitch thread. So the question is if I can use carbide drill bits to make one?
HSS and most other steels don't have much different stiffness to each other regardless if they are hardened or not, just some plasticly deform longer than others before breaking, but yes you can cut HSS with carbide drilling is sometimes more difficult than milling when it comes to super hard steels
+starrtraveler29 No, it would not - The module of elastisity does not change if you harden steel - Does also not matter if youre using mild steel or toolsteel - Steel has always the same module of elastisity :)
What does change when you harden steel is how far the stress/strain curve will go before it starts to fail. Soft steel will start to bend plasticly after just a little force, while hard steel needs much more strain before it goes out of the elastic regime. The slope of the stress/strain curve (modulus of elasticity) doesn't change at all though.
Drill rod comes already ground, which is convenient. I also believe tool steel is tougher in it's annealed state than mild steel in it's annealed state, so you do get some added toughness built in. As well, I suspect that Stefan may be mistaken when he says that all steel has the same elasticity. Hardening doesn't change the elasticity of a particular piece of steel, but I do believe different alloys have different moduli of elasticity. Whether or not it's an important difference however is a different question, to which I don't have the answer
+Denys Dmytriyenko (denix) Shopmade ER25 Collet block - Its a bit of a strange design with the pushscrew from behind, but I like it for its low profile and overhang :)
great vid. i feel kind of cheated though, i was hoping to see a cut made with these tools on the lathe. im sure i will see one sooner or later. thank you for sharing.
Wie immer - ganz gut! Vielen dank von Romeo, Michigan, USA. Ich hoffe, dass wir eines Tages zusammen ein Bier geniessen koennen - im Deutschland/Muenchen - Naturalisch! ;)~ Mit Einem Paulaner Hefeweissbier, und eine Bavarian Schweinhochse.
These old vids are GOLD, just the sort of ideas a learning machinist needs to know. Great project too👍👌🇦🇺
Hello Stefan, Thank you for doing ALL that you are doing with posting these videos! You are changing our world for the better, advancing knowledge globally! You are not a selfish man. Thank you!
One of the things I like most about your channel is tools that you make for yourself. It's changed the way that I look at my projects. Nicely done, sir.
Sincerely,
Tom Z
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) I always stated that I am a model engineer, but it seems more and more that it was not true ;)
What I enjoy most is making tools, jigs and machines :D
Thanks for dropping by, Tom!
Excellent video, Stefan. You are redefining the standard for quality.
Another nice one, Stefan. I'm slowly working my way through your videos and appreciate the excellent content.
How very boring! ... sorry.. someone had to do it :) Excellent work. Ausgezeichnet, even.
It was - indeed - boring.. boring bar that is.. Love your humor Tony. "Ausgezeichnet" is my line!
An excellent subject, very practical, and of course well executed. Your videos are always top notch, and I always look forward to viewing them. Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful work.
Well made and great design! I once made a very small one to bore 8mm holes and spent a lot of time filing a hole for a square tool blank. This definitely shows that round tool blanks work just as well, then the holder is 10x easier to make!
I'm in need of a small boring bar like this. It's now on my to do list. I like the split clamping idea. I mayhaps will try this out with the shaper also. Thanks for the video, CJ
+CJs Custom For shaping keyways? Might work too!
Now they are nice little boring bars.
I do like the clamping mechanism. So much more secure than just a grub screw. I'll definitely be making myself some.
Another great video. Well done. I liked the fact that you acknowledged the original designers for the bar. very humble of you. looking forward to the next video
Nice bars, I especially like the lock on the little ones. I ran a 3" bar on a HBM once that was split like those you did and it seemed more prone to chatter than the ones that were solid with set screws locking the cutters. This was of course on a big machine with a fair bit of tool sticking out so probably not a comparison, but just an observation.
+bcbloc02 I would absolutely agree that a split boring bar is less rigid than a solid one, but the forces on my small machines are a bit more manageable than on a big lathe or a HBM. So far they worked out fine :)
Hi Stefan,
That's pretty much exactly how I do mini-boring bars. I only found your channel about 2 weeks ago but I'm finding it very inspiring, actually got into garage to play with machines for first time in months. My mini bars don't look anything like as nice as yours but they are functional to do a specific job (can't remember what now but only took around 45 mins to make one to bore something) I really should get around to 'finishing' them so they look nicer .
Nice! This just made my to-do list. Looks like you use some pretty good quality taps...I think mine would have definitely broken when tapping drill rod. Love those Knipex pliers!
I need to watch this again. Maybe twice. Then I'll go make a boring bar or two. Thanks! Liked the grinding lesson, too.
+Juan Rivero There is space for a boring bar in everybodies live! :)
I have a couple, but "ineffective" is an understatement. Your way is much better. Thanks.
Hello,
You use as what brand and model drill to drill as easily HSS?
One simple HSS Saw Titex +, cut out a HSS bar so easily?
Unbelievable.
I thought you had at least HSS Cobalt 8
Very interesting and timely. I've been struggling with large drill bits on a very lightweight lathe. Getting a lot of chatter and not much
actual cutting. Decided to take the plunge and use a boring bar for the first time. Using an Aloris tool holder with a boring tool from
H. R. Warner. This tool uses HSS triangular inserts that are very pointy. The sharp points remove metal but leave tiny "threads" down
the bore. I'm now thinking I should make myself some boring bars as you have. That small rounding on the end of the tool seems
likely to provide a better finish. Maybe I should try a little touch up to the Warner insert first.
Great work. I have a question though. Why did you use drill rods rather than regular steel as long as the module of elasticity is the same? Cheers
Because its centerless ground
Another Nice series on simple yet practical Tooling-out
Well presented and explained
Thanks for Sharing - even if they were other's ideas. Credit was duly given.
Keep 'em rolling
aRM
Excellent machine work as usual Stefan!!
+LOREN LIEDER Thank you!
What is the advantage of a 90° boring bar over a 45° one ? I guess the later can do more (turn to an internal shoulder), I don't see why you would need a 90° bar
Its easier to grind form tools for a 90° bar - Threading etc.
@@StefanGotteswinter ok makes sense, thanks
I have made this style boring bar in the past. Rather than boring all the way from the bottom up you can go in from the side underneath the 45 tap it for whatever size is appropriate and make a little wedge with a rounded Edge as your push rod from the side. It works perfectly
Wow, those boring bars are amazing! They're so small but obviously work quite well!
Nice work! :)
I'm more than a little envious of that rack fed tailstock addition you have for doing deep hole drilling like you did here. And I'm more than sure if George Thomas was still alive he'd also be a subscriber to your channel Stefan. As always very well explained, videoed, edited, and machined tooling.
I always hesitate to mention much since your obviously more than knowledgeable. But I know even a few retired professional machinist's and tool and die makers who still hadn't ever heard of them. Try Googeling images for a Goniostat if you don't already know about this type of tool. They were used a lot by Ornamental Turners to hone there tools on a stone to the finest edge possible. T.D. Walshaw (Tubal Cain) has some detail about them in his book Ornamental Turning. One of those would be a fast and easy way to final hone pretty much any lathe and boring tool other than form tools. The end radius would still need to be done by hand.
+Turning Point Very interesting gadget the Goniostat. Hadn't ever seen one. Thanks for posting the info.
Hmm I noticed the holder is at an angle. At a guess, is this to increase rigidity by having the longer base of the tool holder in line with the forces of the tool?
+Stefan Gotteswinter Re: The indexable tool holder in your lathe at 9:45. I grind my own diamond head tools but it looks like a CCMT mounted 90 deg left hand. I've been looking for something like this forever. Is it manufatured or shop made? Can you share some info on the tool holder?
Thank you, great video. After watching your video I feel comfortabe that I can make these boring bars too. I like your clamping solution.
Thank you for showing the details of how you sharpen your boring bits. If you ever need a video idea, a video on just sharpening bits would be nice.
Thanks for the video "fix", I was starting to suffer withdrawal symptoms. :)
Keep up the good work.
+Belair_Boy Yeah, It was some time until the last videos..but I had a lot of going on, so shoptime was very little and time for editing was even more limited :)
Hi Stefan, did you harden these boring bars? Thanks.
Nope, left in the soft - as delivered condition.
clap clap clap Stefan. I've liked the push rod against the bit: smart idea in a boring bar.
Great work again Stefan - makes me think of making myself some more boring bars - one day!
+ChrisB257 Go for it! Nothing is more boring than not having the right boring bar (and you never have the right boring bar for the job anyway...even if you have them all!)
another great video, i learn many tricks and great ideas from your videos the internal locking pin is a nice touch
thank you
Do you harden the bars after? If not, why use drill rod? Is it tougher even in the annealed condition? Did you get the idea for these from the GHT book? I love that book. Thanks for another great vid.
No I keep them soft - Drillrod because it comes as nice centerless ground material (And its higher strength then say mild steel, so threads will hold better up)
Stefan Gotteswinter thanks for the answer Stefan
Those pliers @ 35:20, are they really excellent? They look first rate. What are they called?
Nice true running on your saw arbors. You definitely have the hands of a machinist. Minor flesh wounds all in the line of duty ! : ) Just got GT books per your recommendation, lots of nice ideas.
I love your videos Stefan and although quite experienced myself I have picked up loads of use tips and ideas from you. Just one point, after you have cut the bit to length you won't be able to pull it out much when you come to sharpen it. For sharpening short bits I use a straight bar with a hole drilled in the centre.Kind RegardsBill White.
Always a pleasure to watch your videos! Thanks!
Great work as usual. I absolutely agree about cutting angles, the tool will cut with a bit of rake and a bit of clearance, precise angles are generally unnecessary. In fact i think this is one of the reasons beginners go straight to insert tooling as they are put off grinding their own, thinking the tool wont work unless it is exactly right for the material being cut.
On the long drilling topic, in those circumstances, I would have drilled the larger size first to give more room for swarf clearance, but it's the old "ask a dozen engineers for a solution and getting a dozen different, but correct, answers" story.
Stefan,
I guess on the longer bars you could always drill towards the center from both ends, as an afterthought if the pressure pin ever got stuck in the bore there would always be an orifice for punching out, of course pin getting stuck likely would never happen, but the old saying better to be safe than sorry is always on my mind,
Are there details of the rear entry collet block 3:26. Been back through your videos and unable to find any more info
Great how to video. I am sure many viewers will make their own using your instructions. Thanks for the videl
Thank you for another excellent video!
I like the push rod holding used on the 8mm bars. Could you do it similarly on the larger bars by drilling in from the bit end and having a tapered cross screw to put pressure on the bar? The screw would bear on the inboard end of the bar, not the side of it. The same mechanism as you used in your lathe cross slide dial.
Yes, that would work perfectly on bigger diameter boring bars. On the smaller diameter boring bars it might get hard to fit everything.
Shop made collet block? That is MUST do video...
Nice job Stefan. You always explain things well. regards from the UK
As usual excellent Stefan. Love the sound effects . LOL
Nice boring bars, great work and quality. Have to make some. Thanks for sharing. Randy
Excellent video as always, but I would like to ask what kind of material did you used for the boring bars ? Many thanks.
+HakkilaRanch He says drill rod. I had to rewind to remember ;)
Another good video!
Are you going to harden them, or is there no need? I'm not a machinist, so sorry if the question makes no sense.
My question as well.
Flexing is the main weakness of a boring bar, perhaps drill rod doesn't get significantly stiffer when hardened?
Is drill rod the same material as silver steel?
If have some silver steel rods sitting around. They also came as ground rods.
Yes, I think thats what it is called in the UK - High Carbon/Chrome toolsteel that comes centerless ground.
Thank you for all the great DIY video. Question, did you make the collar blocks in the video? Do you have a video show how to build one? Thanks.
Yes, thats a shopmade one:
gtwr.de/projects/pro_er25colletblock/index.html
Another great video. I like your safety briefing😂. Thank you.
Thanks for the video, Stefan. Informative, as usual.
Hi Stefan, thanks for the video. What steel did you use for the bar?
Any old steel will do. Really, it makes no difference except for the wear and tear on them.
You know for the larger boring bars I really don't understand the slit. Could you please explain why the slit is necessary because I've made these without a slit and just a set screw and they work absolutely perfectly I've been a little embarrassed and hesitant to ask this question
Great demo - thanks for very helpful methods.
Ha! Clicked the like button already after 3 minutes. Another cool video with instructional content well worth the watch. As you know yourself, you do very nice work (both as machinist and videographer), but you should also know that you have my respect. That is a nice way of fastening the tool steel with the push rod and set screw. Excellent solution. Thanks for sharing, Stefan.
ps Video, as you know, shines particularly well when displaying close-up shots. I would suggest that when you consider adding an extra feature that would help the viewer, you add close-up or extreme close-up shots - even stills would be quite useful - to your already fine videos. I would have liked to have seen close-up shots inserted on several of your videos so I could have better seen what you have done. The honing shots are an excellent example although perhaps your camera has a "macro" setting for even closer work to show for example the radius on your cutting bit. You work certainly can bear close scrutiny!
Hi. Could you please show us design of your shop made collet blocks please. Are they upside down ER? Thank you. Regards
It is always nice to expand your tool collection.
Kudos to you for always giving credit to original designers
So why did you not grind the other end of the cutting tool when it was still long and make two bits from one bar? It would save time and money to do that.
Really nice. I thought all of yours were brazed but I never looked closely.
Stefan, very nice instructional video. Thanks for sharing. BTW, I too use 1/8" (yeah, inch crap) but close to 3 mm HSS 10% Cobalt for my boring bars made to GHT design but also for lathe tools mounted in a GHT tool holder. Love you videos. Bob
Another excellent performance Stefan! I have to make a corresponding set for me as well!
Tried to grind some 1/2" cobalt blanks the other day, took 45 minutes to get the tool roughed out. Doing that by hand isn't for the faint of heart.
Get a good, coarse wheel :)
A 46 or 36 grit wheel can cut Hss very fast. Or use a angle grinder with a thin cutoff wheel to remove most material.
Very nice. Simple yet elegant...Thank you for sharing this with us. Aloha...Chuck
Why do you prefer this style boring bar to an indexible insert type?
boring bars like this are well up my project list. i like this design though, maybe i should make some soon! thanks for the great video stefan.
Just bought my first Lathe . Learned a lot , Thanks so much man !!
Thanks, Stefan - excellent in every regard, as always. --Chris
Thanks Stefan, pretty nice boring bars. By the way, I took time to make twice today to use with my chineese boring head. The next step is a new home made boring head for tinies bores.
;-) Didier Yvron
Super noob question. For drilling into drill rod, what material drill bits do you need? Drill rod is basically HSS right? so don't you need something stronger than HSS to drill into HSS? Like carbide?
Drill rod when delivered is soft and can be drilled with any HSS drill.
While drill rod can be hardened and is a toolsteel, HSS is again a different alloy that behaves different (More resistance to heat before losing its hardness)
Hi! You said you used Drill Rod. Is Silver Steel, W1 toolsteel, Böhler K510 the same stuff?
1.2210 is the most generic designation for it.
Great video production/build/instruction/explanations!!
+outsidescrewball Thank you Chuck! You got a nice lathe there for yourself :)
Hi Stefan, I bought some tool steel to make a set of boring bars. I got as far as tapping the first hole on the 8mm boring bar, but the spiral tap broke off inside. I was tapping by hand in the lathe, using the tail stock to keep the tap aligned. I'm thinking I won't be able to finish what I started. Any suggestions you may have for me would be appreciated. Thank you, and take care!
You probably already did this, but considering the price of tool steel I would just start over. Make sure to use plenty of cutting/tapping oil and go slow.
Great as always, an other project for me to do, all I have to do is find some of those 3mm tool bits,
Thanks Stephan
+Phil's Projects Broken endmills, centerdrills and taps are great Hss material :)
Thank you!
+Stefan Gotteswinter . After a year of learning to machine , I do have quite a collection of broken end mills and taps, great suggestion.
this serie is certainly not boring
Brilliant job! Even it's such a boring job :)
4 years later, do you still use these boring bars or have you gone over to solid carbide?
I still use them :)
Hi. thanks for this video. What do you think is the advantage of these boring bars compared to brazed on carbide boring bars?
+rol eic I can change the cutting bit within a few seconds to another form - threading, internal groves, plain boring, roughing, highspeed steel or carbide :)
For even smaller diameters I would use brazed carbide or even solid carbide boring bars :)
+Stefan Gotteswinter You made two types: one with 90° tool angle for through holes and one with 45° for pocket holes. Why not use the 45°-design also for through holes? stick-out length? chatter?
+rol eic Hope I'm not showing bad form answering your questions.... The 90° has a couple of advantages over the
45° in given circumstance. For heavier cuts it is more stable (tool
geometry) & is less likely to have the cutting bit pushed back into
the holder. Also with a 90° you can do internal grooving. You would have to grind too much away on the 45° bit to meet the required cutting geometry.
Great video Stefan! As usual, nice design & quality workmanship to back it :)
The collet holder looks a little different to my ER32 holder I made. Did you describe that tool anywhere? Thanks for the great videos :)
Can you tell us some more about those taps that have drill-bit flutes on them.
"Only on this channel... special sound effects" :) :)
They are blind-hole taps, they feed the chips up instead of pushing them down in the hole.
Hi Stefan.
Nice work...
but the 1911 project is not finished ?
Nice to hear another machinist say " Eyeballing, good enough, That's all it needs...." this makes the work as simple as it needs to be.... !!!
Do you have a 150 kg, KITTEN..... ????? Did you try to remove his food dish before he was full.... ???
Just wondering, with all those scratches on your hands............ LOL
Enjoyed, interesting video... ;)
i doubt that she have more then 60kg LOL
Nice build Stefan enjoyed thanks a lot
Well, now you know how good your mic is. But really, fantastic video as usual!
Hi Stefan, are you using carbide drill bits for drilling in HSS steel?
Thanks again.
Edit: You only say HSS in the title, and do not mention steel type in the video. I got some round HSS toolbits blanks, to have some around when needed, but want to make a threading tool for internal threads with long stickout (45mm). The small threading bar I have is too soft, and flex when I try to cut an 45 mm long internal 2.0 pitch thread. So the question is if I can use carbide drill bits to make one?
HSS and most other steels don't have much different stiffness to each other regardless if they are hardened or not, just some plasticly deform longer than others before breaking, but yes you can cut HSS with carbide drilling is sometimes more difficult than milling when it comes to super hard steels
Would you mind passing along the specs on your grinding wheel, ... grit , grade, bond, etc. Thanks
Do you feel like hardening these would help with rigidity?
+starrtraveler29 No, it would not - The module of elastisity does not change if you harden steel - Does also not matter if youre using mild steel or toolsteel - Steel has always the same module of elastisity :)
+Stefan Gotteswinter Wow, I guess I didnt' remember that from my metallurgy class. That simplifies a lot of my future projects...thanks!!!
What does change when you harden steel is how far the stress/strain curve will go before it starts to fail. Soft steel will start to bend plasticly after just a little force, while hard steel needs much more strain before it goes out of the elastic regime. The slope of the stress/strain curve (modulus of elasticity) doesn't change at all though.
That's very interesting. But it begs the question, why not just use some cheap mild steel instead if you're not going to harden it?
Drill rod comes already ground, which is convenient. I also believe tool steel is tougher in it's annealed state than mild steel in it's annealed state, so you do get some added toughness built in. As well, I suspect that Stefan may be mistaken when he says that all steel has the same elasticity. Hardening doesn't change the elasticity of a particular piece of steel, but I do believe different alloys have different moduli of elasticity. Whether or not it's an important difference however is a different question, to which I don't have the answer
What is that collet block - what type of collets does it take?
+Denys Dmytriyenko (denix) Shopmade ER25 Collet block - Its a bit of a strange design with the pushscrew from behind, but I like it for its low profile and overhang :)
great vid. i feel kind of cheated though, i was hoping to see a cut made with these tools on the lathe. im sure i will see one sooner or later. thank you for sharing.
+Stan Seel Haha, I had some footage with testcuts...somewhere in the process it got lost...but they work ;)
Really enjoyed this. Keep cranking them out...
Can you make an edge finder or at least tell us how they work?
Tom / Oxtool has an excellent series on making an edge finder :)
Wie immer - ganz gut! Vielen dank von Romeo, Michigan, USA.
Ich hoffe, dass wir eines Tages zusammen ein Bier geniessen koennen - im Deutschland/Muenchen - Naturalisch! ;)~ Mit Einem Paulaner Hefeweissbier, und eine Bavarian Schweinhochse.
you make it all look so easy good stuff
Stefan, do you have a video on trepanning?
So what is the 90 degree bar for? It seems like anything you could do with the 90 you could just as easily do with the 45
Especially for threading or internal snap ring grooves it is easier to grind the tool with a 90° boring bar.
Your milling vise. Is it 100mm in width, and What brand?
That is a generic chinese 80mm grinding (screwless) vise from ebay.
Stefan Nice work, very interested in your collet holder.
Can you supply details
Thanks
Love the sound effects !!!
Another terrific video! Thank you..