I gotta say, man, I really commend your ability to crank these videos out on a weekly basis. That's no small feat! Nice project and looking forward to seeing your uses for these.
Thankyou, that is very kind. Not easy doing weekly videos, but with very careful video planning I can get it done. This video was for example filmed roughly at the same time as the tool maker vise, but adding filler videos and smaller projects allows me to space out posting the major projects. Plus I can film up to 3 projects at any one time and I can usually resuse a lot of footage in supplemental videos, such as the case hardening video from 2 weeks ago with used lots of footage from this project. Cheers
It always amazes me how you brave projects that most of us hobbyists only think about making, but don't bother and just buy lol. You are a very bold hobbyist my friend and you've come a long way. Thank you for sharing your projects with us, they surely Inspire many!
Love your oldschool manual approach. V blocks were my first project in trade school, we even ran them on a surface grinder. Being a professional CNC machinist I wish I had the time to make a set like these for fun as a hobby machinist. Well done
@Craftspirit be a tool-die maker bro. 6 months of absolute chaos in the shop followed by 6 months of pretending to work making your own stuff. Companies don't like ordering 6 figure molds until they get their taxes back... So all the orders come in at once. It's a fun trade.
Good work my brother, So few people today actually know how to use a hack saw. Good work with the first time pack hardening. ,,,, If anybody deserves a band saw, though. it's you. Don't sell the HF 4x6 short. Don't listen to the cork sniffers. It takes a little tuning but we have had one in our shop for over 30 years. - 2-Worm wheels, 1 moter, and installation of water and hydraulic feed cylinder and we use if a good 20 hours a week cutting 4140 round bar. Well worth the 3 hun they go for today. Like I said. You deserve one.
Nice project, I made a set of theses as an apprentice at 16. Still have them and use them on a regular basis 43 years later. Keep up the good work mate. 👍
A lovely video and a joy to watch. Thank you for sharing your journey on case hardening and how you achieve it in the home shop. I will say that your clamp was quite presentable! Cant wait to see these in use in future. Regards
Start with the tools and skills you have. Everyone’s journey starts with the first step. Looks good to me. If make a small counter sink at the top of the hole you wish to thread it make taping straight easier. A Mr Pete trick. Thanks for sharing.
Those came out great, and as for the finish on the clamps, they will work as well as any others out there, and they have more character than any others out there. A double win 👍
I like this a lot! This realy shows that with enough effort and patience you can make anything work if you set your mind to it even if tools and supplies are limited (like 90% of the time). Great job and thanks for putting it out there!
Thank you for this very well-done video. You covered all the steps thoroughly so we can all understand the procedure. Should I win the lottery; I will buy you a power-operated saw to save your arm for the next nice project. Looking forward to your other showings.
Mate, you should have a million subs. It's always a pleasant surprise when you upload. Very nice job as usual. Also a quick tip is to drop the case hardened parts directly into a water bath once removed from the charcoal. That's how firearms get the pretty rainbow color case hardening.
I was using citric acid in granules to remove polymerized oil from aluminum part. I just sprinkle it on part and heat it with heat gun. When part cools its easily washed with water. Also i use it as an active flux for soldering when dealing with old oxidized nasty cables and for general purpose soldering. Obviously you cant use caustic soda on aluminum parts. I dont know if citric acid will work better that caustic soda for steel. but on aluminum it surely works great when heat is applied.
Love the vid 👍. Also the reason you didn't get the same hardness as cold oil is the thermal shock from the quench. The oil being hot means the temp diff is not as massive allowing the piece to cool off more slowly.
Well yes, less martensite formation, but I don't need hardness for v blocks, which is why I chose this method, I needed minimal warping. Hot oil won't as much variation in temperature
Since you seem to be grinding on the mill more frequently, I am getting worried about the dust a bit. Perhaps you should bricolage (sew?) together a quick to install jacket - something that covers more than the hand wheels.
Hello, a great video making v blocks with little equipment! Very ingenious methods using the mill as your grinder. I started a v block years ago that I never finished. Will try this in the winter. Thank you sharing!
NIce to see Precision parts made on hobby machines.. For Case Hardening you could also use "Hardening enveloppes" or Hardening foil, Heck, maybe even have your parts Canned.. some gift shops offer this, putting gifts in a Tin Can..
Have you ever considered chain-drilling when cutting material?(For those who haven’t heard the term, it’s drilling a series of holes close enough together so the bores of the holes slightly overlap each other into one groove, a strait line, circle, or whichever pattern) It does waste a bit of material, but it makes the hacksawing so much easier. I use DeWalt pilot point bits for doing this in big chunks of material all the time. I just did this with a 12x8x1/2” steel plate and roughly chain drilled the shape of features, think a poor mans waterjet type of cut, and finished it with two passes per feature face on the mill. Just throwing the method out there for anybody. I know endmills don’t grow on trees for us hobby people, but drill bits sorta do. But, if anybody does this, be VERY careful with the drilled edges.
For protecting stuff from scale, I like 2000* F Rust Oleum spray paint, as for knives I can do much less grinding before hitting good steel, really just light hand sanding actually.
A nice next big project could be a power hacksaw, a mechanism similar to that of the powered filer could be used, I imagine that sawing metal by hand is getting tiresome at this point. Great video and great work.
@@Ed-rt9qt - If you know how to use a hacksaw, cutting such a block is not really an issue. Also remember, that's how our grandparents cut steel "back in the day".
an alternative to carburizing is "super quench" 4 gal of water 1 large bottle dish detergent liquid 1 sm bottle of "jet dry" 5 lbs of salt mix ingredients quench your 1018 - 1045 when your above the curie point works great for low to mid low carbon steels you can expect about a 50-52 rockwell descale with a soak in muriotic.
Very nice work. I made my own forge too - I was (still am) about the fiber comming from those K-wool blankets. I (very carefully with full protective gear) coated my forge with refractory cement (about 5 layers - about 3 extra due to cracking and other issues. Two layers are good enough). You really don't want to breath these tiny fibers - it's like breathing asbestos. These tiny glass fibers induce silicosis - a process of forming lung cancer due to embedded particles in the lung that cannot be cleared out, just like asbestosis. FYI.
My first reaction was that your time is worth more than the purchase price of a set of V blocks. However, you are assured of getting an end product which meets your specifications, and you (and your viewers) learn a lot on the journey.
A suggestion when sealing the boxes with clay, maybe try rolling the clay into snakes rolling between your palms, then you have a rope of clay you can lay around the lid and mash into play like a continuous bead, it may fill the gaps a bit better.
Nicely done. How are you going with all the wet weather? Up here in Qld we are not getting as much as you, but plenty of flooding in the usual low laying areas around the place.
Thanks for asking, been pretty wet down here in NSW. The moisture hasn't been doing my tools too much good, I have to keep them properly oiled and such. Thankfully the workshop hasn't flooded. When I first moved in it flooded several times. Had to redo the sealing and drainage which I am happy about, given the flooding that other parts of the state has been getting. Cheers
Looks great, my understanding is alloys are heat treated differently depending on what's in them. Some use water quenching for higher surface hardness. Also if you haven't watched it yet, there's a TH-camr with a series of build videos on making a microwave furnace. It might be something that'd interest you.
Silver flux is boric acid and borax. One thing you might try is to get a hold of some nitric acid. A 15% nitric acid/water mixture will etch the case/core of a test (done at the same time) sample which is ground down allowing you to measure accurately the case depth. It will turn the case black and leave the core silver.
Cheers, someone suggested that I try out the nitric acid mix, and I will have to do it sometime in the future. And im sure some fluxes are boric acid based, but this one isnt.
if you want too facegrind with no mess find a stainless steel tub your vice fits in with some room either side, about 50% of your mill table have the tub about 4” high (whatever fits nice) drill two hold too bolt the vice through too your table. This will catch all the sand your pretty much putting a bucket under and around your vice i use stainless cake tray found at a kitchen shop. that way it doesn’t compress when you bolt the vice on it
Be interesting if you welded some steel angle into a V block then skimmed the working surfaces true, would it stay true or distort ? If it works then it would save a lot of time and money.
Impressive work! You have an amazing machining setup but still cut thick pieces of steel by hand with a hacksaw? Thanks for taking the time to film your work.
yo man about that scale from heat treating I've found if you sand your surface to 400 grit then the scale just rinses of the sand paper I used was klingspor I know different countries have different grit systems so there that
Hey man! I noticed you add a piece of wire/aluminum rod in-between the soft jaw and the piece while squaring up your stock. What's the reasoning behind that? Does it prevent the soft jaw from throwing the piece off square when pressure is applied?
I use it when clamping on uneven stock. Makes it so there is one point of contact from the moving jaw to the uneven stock which helps ensure that the machined edge stays parallel with the fixed jaw.
I guess you realised later you should have fitted some sort of spacer into the 'U' of the clamp to prevent it springing. I was given a 'pair' of small V blocks probably 30 years ago without clamps. cut them from 3/8" (10mm) plate and used a 5mm screw. Hole saw hacksaw and files did the job Only one gets used a lot so being a mis-matched 'pair' doesn't matter. You always seem to be fly cutting at high rpm, are you using carbide insert cutter?
Why did you machine the bar BEFORE forging it? Just curious... the clamp turned out awesome! The contrast between machined and forged finish looks very good!
Very nice! Out of interest I have found the quenching in cold engine oil from a "straw coloured" heated steel to be the easiest method to get a pretty good case harden. It then needs to be tempered in the Wife's oven (when she is out!). Whats your thoughts on that method?
@@fergusoddjob Mild steel. It comes from the motor oil. I am told this method makes it super hard and brittle and must be tempered afterwards. I made a tool to go on the end of concrete breaker to drive steel pipe into the ground (about the most powerful version that you can plug into a wall outlet). This was 30mm dia mild steel and not surprisingly the end of the tool was peened over after driving only two pipes. I then hardened and tempered using the above method and a friend has now driven several pipes and there is no sign of deformation. I have not tried to drive pipe myself after hardening so can't claim to have done a back to back comparison but it appears to work.
This all wrong. Quenching at a "straw" will do absolutely nothing. You don't gain carbon from motor oil either. I'd skip the idea of case hardening stuff all together. If you want a hardened tool buy some 1045 steel heat to non magnetic and quench in water.
@@nicktaylor9291 I made a whacker tool for the end of a concrete breaker to drive 1.5 inch steel pipe into the ground. I tried driving the mild steel unhardened and not surprisingly the end peened over almost immediately. So I heat to "straw" colour and quenched in use motor oil.. Then annealed in the oven. I have now used the tool several times since and the tool is the same shape as when I made it. Now I know this is an un-scientific method to test but it sure seems like its much harder than it was.
Nice video, both the quality of machining and filming ! A question though : For such parts, what's the adventage of case hardening VS making the part of higher carbon steel and quenching it ? It's quite time consuming and you dont get as much hardness as you could with the first method Btw, good work mate, keep them coming !
Thankyou. I tend to rely on case hardening to harden parts because getting large flat and square bar of high carbon steel is very difficult. My area of the world doesn't have a big demand for that type of steel in the manufacturing that happens, as a result of I really wanted to get a piece of high carbon steel, like what I used here, I'd be up for a minimum order of atleast 6 meters. Conversely getting my hands on low carbon structural steel is much easier. Cheers
I gotta say, man, I really commend your ability to crank these videos out on a weekly basis. That's no small feat! Nice project and looking forward to seeing your uses for these.
The secret is, they're all side projects.
Thankyou, that is very kind. Not easy doing weekly videos, but with very careful video planning I can get it done. This video was for example filmed roughly at the same time as the tool maker vise, but adding filler videos and smaller projects allows me to space out posting the major projects. Plus I can film up to 3 projects at any one time and I can usually resuse a lot of footage in supplemental videos, such as the case hardening video from 2 weeks ago with used lots of footage from this project. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Sounds like you've got it down to a science, and it shows! Thanks again for the great content.
Holy cow IM is here. *fangirls shamelessly*
When do we get this collab?
Those clamps! Marrying a blacksmithing look with smooth surfaces really set those clamps off nicely 💪💪👍👍
Yeah, nice touch of it all, lol
It adds a bit of japanese aesthetic vibe to it, looks very nice.
I really like the hammer finish on the clamp, it gives it a more natural look. Thank you for sharing your time with us.
Excellent work! Really like the contrast between the hammered outer surface of the clamp and the precision ground v-block. Science and art!
Thankyou, the finshish is really growing on me..Cheers
Another channel with a Saturday night video I was waiting for!
Love the hammered finish on the clamps they came out mint
yeah it's beautiful, the shape of the curve works so well.
It always amazes me how you brave projects that most of us hobbyists only think about making, but don't bother and just buy lol. You are a very bold hobbyist my friend and you've come a long way. Thank you for sharing your projects with us, they surely Inspire many!
Nice job. I respect your "do the best can I with what I've got " attitude. Greetings from the UK👍
Love your oldschool manual approach. V blocks were my first project in trade school, we even ran them on a surface grinder. Being a professional CNC machinist I wish I had the time to make a set like these for fun as a hobby machinist. Well done
Following you there, professional CNC machinist that would absolutely love to have more time and tools to do my own projects just like that
@Craftspirit be a tool-die maker bro. 6 months of absolute chaos in the shop followed by 6 months of pretending to work making your own stuff. Companies don't like ordering 6 figure molds until they get their taxes back... So all the orders come in at once. It's a fun trade.
Excellent tools you've made here. I'm always impressed with how good your mill does with that cup wheel.
Good work my brother, So few people today actually know how to use a hack saw. Good work with the first time pack hardening. ,,,, If anybody deserves a band saw, though. it's you. Don't sell the HF 4x6 short. Don't listen to the cork sniffers. It takes a little tuning but we have had one in our shop for over 30 years. - 2-Worm wheels, 1 moter, and installation of water and hydraulic feed cylinder and we use if a good 20 hours a week cutting 4140 round bar. Well worth the 3 hun they go for today. Like I said. You deserve one.
Nice project, I made a set of theses as an apprentice at 16. Still have them and use them on a regular basis 43 years later. Keep up the good work mate. 👍
A lovely video and a joy to watch. Thank you for sharing your journey on case hardening and how you achieve it in the home shop. I will say that your clamp was quite presentable! Cant wait to see these in use in future. Regards
Hard work is always rewarded and you have proven that on each of your videos I've watched. Your videos are great fun to watch keep up the hard work.
I love the honesty of your show & your curiosity/determination..... TM
Start with the tools and skills you have. Everyone’s journey starts with the first step. Looks good to me. If make a small counter sink at the top of the hole you wish to thread it make taping straight easier. A Mr Pete trick. Thanks for sharing.
Those came out great, and as for the finish on the clamps, they will work as well as any others out there, and they have more character than any others out there. A double win 👍
I like this a lot! This realy shows that with enough effort and patience you can make anything work if you set your mind to it even if tools and supplies are limited (like 90% of the time). Great job and thanks for putting it out there!
Excellent work, great additions to the shop.
Thanks for sharing
I like the look of the hammer marks on the clamp. Well done. 👍
Excellent as always ... quality and thoughtfulness ...
Thank you for this very well-done video. You covered all the steps thoroughly so we can all understand the procedure. Should I win the lottery; I will buy you a power-operated saw to save your arm for the next nice project. Looking forward to your other showings.
Mate, you should have a million subs. It's always a pleasant surprise when you upload. Very nice job as usual. Also a quick tip is to drop the case hardened parts directly into a water bath once removed from the charcoal. That's how firearms get the pretty rainbow color case hardening.
*Very good for the machining of these precision parts after the hardening treatment I knew you would have to end up using the grinder. Regards*
I was using citric acid in granules to remove polymerized oil from aluminum part. I just sprinkle it on part and heat it with heat gun.
When part cools its easily washed with water.
Also i use it as an active flux for soldering when dealing with old oxidized nasty cables and for general purpose soldering.
Obviously you cant use caustic soda on aluminum parts.
I dont know if citric acid will work better that caustic soda for steel. but on aluminum it surely works great when heat is applied.
I'll have to try this trick!
Impressive…. Especially the forged clamps. 👍👍😎👍👍
i like the clamps forget finish
Love the vid 👍. Also the reason you didn't get the same hardness as cold oil is the thermal shock from the quench. The oil being hot means the temp diff is not as massive allowing the piece to cool off more slowly.
Well yes, less martensite formation, but I don't need hardness for v blocks, which is why I chose this method, I needed minimal warping. Hot oil won't as much variation in temperature
Somewhat unconventional but still worth it.
I enjoy your channel as a boilermaker. I’ve learnt a lot about machining.❤
Glad you enjoyed watching
@@artisanmakes always enjoy watching
Hey there, you do good work, not just in the workshop but also videoing and narration too. Subbed!
Mark, Queensland.
Thankyou, glad you enjoyed the video
Since you seem to be grinding on the mill more frequently, I am getting worried about the dust a bit. Perhaps you should bricolage (sew?) together a quick to install jacket - something that covers more than the hand wheels.
Hello, a great video making v blocks with little equipment! Very ingenious methods using the mill as your grinder. I started a v block years ago that I never finished. Will try this in the winter. Thank you sharing!
NIce to see Precision parts made on hobby machines..
For Case Hardening you could also use "Hardening enveloppes" or Hardening foil, Heck, maybe even have your parts Canned.. some gift shops offer this, putting gifts in a Tin Can..
Hmm, never seen that case hardening method before. Kudos!
Brilliant job!
Well done young fella.
Have you ever considered chain-drilling when cutting material?(For those who haven’t heard the term, it’s drilling a series of holes close enough together so the bores of the holes slightly overlap each other into one groove, a strait line, circle, or whichever pattern) It does waste a bit of material, but it makes the hacksawing so much easier. I use DeWalt pilot point bits for doing this in big chunks of material all the time. I just did this with a 12x8x1/2” steel plate and roughly chain drilled the shape of features, think a poor mans waterjet type of cut, and finished it with two passes per feature face on the mill. Just throwing the method out there for anybody. I know endmills don’t grow on trees for us hobby people, but drill bits sorta do. But, if anybody does this, be VERY careful with the drilled edges.
I've used chain drilling quite a bit myself, it works great if you don't have a better way.
After not hacksawing that mill backplate slug, glad to see the hacksaw return
Hehe, fun fact though, that hacksaw footage was shot about a month before I did the backplate :)
I thought this was a This Old Tony video for a minute 😳 😂 Nice work good sir
Grinding in the mill, not seen that before!
My jaw dropped watching you use a hack saw. Too funny.
For protecting stuff from scale, I like 2000* F Rust Oleum spray paint, as for knives I can do much less grinding before hitting good steel, really just light hand sanding actually.
A nice next big project could be a power hacksaw, a mechanism similar to that of the powered filer could be used, I imagine that sawing metal by hand is getting tiresome at this point. Great video and great work.
I just wonder how he can saw that thick pieces of metal by hand with a hacksaw.
He is way ahead of you :)
@@Ed-rt9qt - If you know how to use a hacksaw, cutting such a block is not really an issue.
Also remember, that's how our grandparents cut steel "back in the day".
@@johncoops6897 I know how to use a hacksaw, I use it often too.But it is not easy and needs a lot of muscular strength and patience.
Always mill a slot to stamp your initials in. Nice tools can walk.
I love fly cutters. Brave old school.
You've really been producing a lot lately. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
You're getting quite good at that!
an alternative to carburizing is "super quench"
4 gal of water
1 large bottle dish detergent liquid
1 sm bottle of "jet dry"
5 lbs of salt
mix ingredients
quench your 1018 - 1045 when your above the curie point
works great for low to mid low carbon steels
you can expect about a 50-52 rockwell
descale with a soak in muriotic.
Big fan of the clamps.
Solid work. Really enjoy the content on the channel.
Very nice work.
I made my own forge too - I was (still am) about the fiber comming from those K-wool blankets.
I (very carefully with full protective gear) coated my forge with refractory cement (about 5 layers - about 3 extra due to cracking and other issues. Two layers are good enough).
You really don't want to breath these tiny fibers - it's like breathing asbestos.
These tiny glass fibers induce silicosis - a process of forming lung cancer due to embedded particles in the lung that cannot be cleared out, just like asbestosis. FYI.
My first reaction was that your time is worth more than the purchase price of a set of V blocks. However, you are assured of getting an end product which meets your specifications, and you (and your viewers) learn a lot on the journey.
That fly cutter is definitely earning its keep
A suggestion when sealing the boxes with clay, maybe try rolling the clay into snakes rolling between your palms, then you have a rope of clay you can lay around the lid and mash into play like a continuous bead, it may fill the gaps a bit better.
Nicely done. How are you going with all the wet weather? Up here in Qld we are not getting as much as you, but plenty of flooding in the usual low laying areas around the place.
Thanks for asking, been pretty wet down here in NSW. The moisture hasn't been doing my tools too much good, I have to keep them properly oiled and such. Thankfully the workshop hasn't flooded. When I first moved in it flooded several times. Had to redo the sealing and drainage which I am happy about, given the flooding that other parts of the state has been getting. Cheers
Looks great, my understanding is alloys are heat treated differently depending on what's in them. Some use water quenching for higher surface hardness. Also if you haven't watched it yet, there's a TH-camr with a series of build videos on making a microwave furnace. It might be something that'd interest you.
Silver flux is boric acid and borax. One thing you might try is to get a hold of some nitric acid. A 15% nitric acid/water mixture will etch the case/core of a test (done at the same time) sample which is ground down allowing you to measure accurately the case depth. It will turn the case black and leave the core silver.
Cheers, someone suggested that I try out the nitric acid mix, and I will have to do it sometime in the future. And im sure some fluxes are boric acid based, but this one isnt.
@@artisanmakes Interesting. Here there is nothing but borax based. Of course I only buy a new jar once every 25 years! So maybe its a new thing?
if you want too facegrind with no mess find a stainless steel tub your vice fits in with some room either side, about 50% of your mill table
have the tub about 4” high (whatever fits nice) drill two hold too bolt the vice through too your table. This will catch all the sand
your pretty much putting a bucket under and around your vice
i use stainless cake tray found at a kitchen shop. that way it doesn’t compress when you bolt the vice on it
Отличная работа!
I wish you lived state side. I have like 5 portable bandsaws and I would totally send you one so you can put down that dang hacksaw…
Be interesting if you welded some steel angle into a V block then skimmed the working surfaces true, would it stay true or distort ? If it works then it would save a lot of time and money.
Thanks for teach, you are a good master, FARDIN from Iran,, 🙏WOMAN, LIFE, FREEDOM, 🙏
This is a great project. I could really use a set of these.
great project well done
Gday, the vee blocks turned out great, nothing wrong with them at all, where abouts in Australia are you, cheers
Very neat job 👌
Did you use an angle block to tilt the workpiece in the mill vice???
Vai meus parabéns do tamanho da nossa distância pra vc amigo 👏👏🇧🇷
Dude - love the end product (and video of course)! Have you seen anything like these for sale anywhere? I think we all need a pair.
Never make something you can just buy on Amazon
Really nice job. If you already had some vee blocks you could have used them to hold the parts square when machining the ends. No problem now though 😊
Nicely done sir.
So how much of the case hardening are you loosing when you are grinding them at 13:00
At most I think I ground off 0.03ish mm. From the testing that I did on some rod, the case should have ended up about 0.15mm thick.
Question: Why wouldn't you weld the top on? It should seal it totally, then you could cut it off after you heat treat it.
Impressive work! You have an amazing machining setup but still cut thick pieces of steel by hand with a hacksaw? Thanks for taking the time to film your work.
If you can make two blocks, try for three or four. They will always come in handy.
yo man about that scale from heat treating I've found if you sand your surface to 400 grit then the scale just rinses of
the sand paper I used was klingspor I know different countries have different grit systems so there that
Hey man! I noticed you add a piece of wire/aluminum rod in-between the soft jaw and the piece while squaring up your stock. What's the reasoning behind that? Does it prevent the soft jaw from throwing the piece off square when pressure is applied?
I use it when clamping on uneven stock. Makes it so there is one point of contact from the moving jaw to the uneven stock which helps ensure that the machined edge stays parallel with the fixed jaw.
I guess you realised later you should have fitted some sort of spacer into the 'U' of the clamp to prevent it springing.
I was given a 'pair' of small V blocks probably 30 years ago without clamps.
cut them from 3/8" (10mm) plate and used a 5mm screw. Hole saw hacksaw and files did the job
Only one gets used a lot so being a mis-matched 'pair' doesn't matter.
You always seem to be fly cutting at high rpm, are you using carbide insert cutter?
Good Job fella!
Why did you machine the bar BEFORE forging it? Just curious... the clamp turned out awesome! The contrast between machined and forged finish looks very good!
Needed to square up the sides. It was a piece of off cut from a previous project and the edge was in rough shape from the angle grinder. Cheers
Very nice! Out of interest I have found the quenching in cold engine oil from a "straw coloured" heated steel to be the easiest method to get a pretty good case harden. It then needs to be tempered in the Wife's oven (when she is out!). Whats your thoughts on that method?
If its mild steel where is the carbon coming from in that method? Isn't that just for tool steels?
@@fergusoddjob From the carbon in used motor oil.
@@fergusoddjob Mild steel. It comes from the motor oil. I am told this method makes it super hard and brittle and must be tempered afterwards. I made a tool to go on the end of concrete breaker to drive steel pipe into the ground (about the most powerful version that you can plug into a wall outlet). This was 30mm dia mild steel and not surprisingly the end of the tool was peened over after driving only two pipes. I then hardened and tempered using the above method and a friend has now driven several pipes and there is no sign of deformation. I have not tried to drive pipe myself after hardening so can't claim to have done a back to back comparison but it appears to work.
This all wrong. Quenching at a "straw" will do absolutely nothing. You don't gain carbon from motor oil either. I'd skip the idea of case hardening stuff all together. If you want a hardened tool buy some 1045 steel heat to non magnetic and quench in water.
@@nicktaylor9291 I made a whacker tool for the end of a concrete breaker to drive 1.5 inch steel pipe into the ground. I tried driving the mild steel unhardened and not surprisingly the end peened over almost immediately. So I heat to "straw" colour and quenched in use motor oil.. Then annealed in the oven. I have now used the tool several times since and the tool is the same shape as when I made it. Now I know this is an un-scientific method to test but it sure seems like its much harder than it was.
Try heating the steel up before you machine it. It may warp it before hand.
Everything you doing are grate, nice jobs… Did you ever thinking to get a band saw instead a manual metal handsaw? 😉
Just curious - why clay to seal it up? It might explode if you weld it up?
Easier to set up and break down once it’s finished. And it’s what every guide calls for
We needa buy our guy a bandsaw!
what product was used to cement the part friend
you need to make a bandsaw next
heresy! ;)
Nuuuuuu !!!!!!!!
Надеюсь точность такая же как аккуратность изготовления 👍.
You should look into a mister and some compressed air for your mill
Nice video, both the quality of machining and filming ! A question though : For such parts, what's the adventage of case hardening VS making the part of higher carbon steel and quenching it ? It's quite time consuming and you dont get as much hardness as you could with the first method
Btw, good work mate, keep them coming !
Thankyou. I tend to rely on case hardening to harden parts because getting large flat and square bar of high carbon steel is very difficult. My area of the world doesn't have a big demand for that type of steel in the manufacturing that happens, as a result of I really wanted to get a piece of high carbon steel, like what I used here, I'd be up for a minimum order of atleast 6 meters. Conversely getting my hands on low carbon structural steel is much easier. Cheers
Why do you harden them? For the most purposes you dont need them hardened
Oh boy. Bet you did learn a lot from this project
I'm about to make these
Great. You might square the stock as long as you are milling....
That was nice bro
I think you need to buy or make a machine saw for metal.
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Absolutely superb.
I could really do with a set at my dayjob
You know what, I'm subscribing just for hack sawing 40mm of steel.
boric acid is sold as an insecticide for roaches here in the US, you might look for that
borax for laundry might work too