Anyone that is bitching about "Over complicated" "too much work" needs to go back and watch some more videos, familiarise themselves with the precision that is the norm for this channel. It's a joy to see someone else that does things because it's the right way to do them, and isn't afraid of taking a long route to get precision.
Use a internal circlip / snap ring. Works like a charm. Fit it in the grooves I have been in machining for 20 years and have yet to find a more simple method of quick back stopping a workpiece in a Chuck
Interesting, you hope? I was so mesmerized I forgot to sip my coffee, and it got cold. The detail and precision of your work fascinates me. It is interesting and informative to hear your reasoning as you develop a design. Too, the quality of your videos is just superb. You are in the super-hero class! ;)
Very nicely done Stefan! I am honored that you found something useful in one of my videos. I use my stops all the time and as you know they are very handy. ATB, Robin
Stefan, I totally like your thinking outside the box as they say. I enjoy your attention to detail, and I like your small surface grinder! Thanks for sharing buddy. Razor!
Thank you Stefan. YES this was interesting for me! (as always). As I have said before, I learn so much from your videos. I don't understand why you "only" have 14K subscribers. Your channel is a no nonsense, straight to the point, focused on the details machining channel. Nice editing as well. I recommend this channel at every opportunity. Keep up the good work.
It is so great to see someone doing such precision work with a little 9 x 20 lathe, especially when you are making upgrade parts for that lathe. I am always watching these guys on youtube with their big, heavy, precision lathes and I suffer from lathe envy. You give me hope as well as good ideas for my little 9 x 20 benchtop lathe. You sir, are an inspiration, even after you upgraded to your newer, larger Enco. The time you spent, sharing your knowledge, will be appreciated for many years to come by those of us in the hobby community. You rock!
Hi Stefan, beautifully elegant solution to "the washer problem", one truly has to appreciate the lengths you go to for precision. Well done and thanks.
Great job Stefan. A very precise way to get parts to sit correctly in the chuck. My list of items to make gets longer and longer. :-) regards from the UK
I haven't watched the whole video yet but talk about "reinventing the wheel "! Joe Pie uses three drilled and tapped holes in the chuck body between the chuck jaws. Into these three holes he screws premade, you could grind them to length I suppose, three machined "standoffs" of the appropriate length. He keeps three sets that equate to the depths of the jaw steps. Screw in the applicable set, mount your stock and machine. If you need to make sure they're all the same or a different height just take the jaws out, run a skim cut over the posts, and re insert the jaws ready for your stock. I do believe he has a video about them on his channel.
If you put a ring of felt between the plate and the back plate inside the chuck, you won't get any more chips inside. Felt to allow for expansion without interference. I did the same thing on my mini lathe's chuck.
so i just finished the build of this backstop ... i use all of the possibilities you talk about at the beginning only Toms from oxtoolco i have to try in the future ... i think every backstop option has its good and less good sides so i use whats the best for the job ... oh god if i hear me talking someone could think i know what i do :-)) im lightyears from stefan , old tony , tom or joe p. from texas away nearly all i know i learned from them and some books of Harold Hall or Tubalcain i just want to thank stefan for his work and that he is willing to show us how it should be done .... thanx...
I too took a liking to Rob Renzetti's chuck stops. I think your interpretation is excellent. I will put some on the list of shop jobs. I think I will have to retire to get all these jobs done! As usual, great video Stefan.
Stefan..I've been watching all of your videos recently and I've started copying some of your ideas. I had a suggestion for the sliding parts of your stand-offs, You might drill and tap the inside end of each piece and attach a low head cap screw that partly covers the end of the slot. That way if for some reason the clamp was loose on one of the sliders it wouldn't go flying when you turned on the lathe. It would be caught by the tongue of the clamp. It looks like you have enough room so it wouldn't restrict your adjustments. EDIT...I see that your screws are close to the end. Perhaps a thin plate welded on would work..... Thanks for all of the inspirations.
I have now witnessed the One Tooth Jaw Punch err Pinch! Unreal how short a region you've managed to get a perfect offset, plus rigidity that might be useful when scribing lines or cutting a key. Still not caught up, but this was worth the time travel. Definitely. I can't actually tell you to keep it up, since this is 7 years ago. I'll go with Congratulations and much future success!
just my 2 cents worth, grinding the tool without warping it lay it diagonally on chuck so you are only grinding a portion at each crank that way you can take a heavier cut with less heat.
Fantastic job, one recommendation, If you use some small shim washers under the hardened depth stops they wont wear the surface of the mounts out where they tighten down.
I must say I understood every bit of what you were doing, but not until the last did I grasp that there were three stops, one for each jaw. Of course, you only showed one being made . Again of course, you need three points to establish a plane, see remedial Euclid. I knew that you knew that, so I was confused until I saw die ganze Sache, then it all became clear. Hmm.I use parallels for the purpose, same as you showed, adjustable parallels in my case. If I were doing production work, I would certainly consider this stop.Bravo!
Excellent, what else is there to say? Also, I like your organization of the tools into a set.This problem of holding a thin part always seems to happen to me when we are in a big hurry. This is the best solution I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing this one!
Nice built, I can really imagine this to come in handy. I only have one doubt, had you ever feared those sliders to come loose and shoot around the shop at high rpm? Maybe a hard stop would be nice to lock the sliding parts from moving out to far.
I am still "mill-less" and undoubtedly ignorant, but when you are aligning the work with an indicator while traversing along it with the power feed, wouldn't it be quicker to knock the piece until the indicator needle becomes stationary, rather than knocking it back to zero? I imagine that knocking it until you reach zero will always rotate the piece and require a repeat pass. I know that the material has a bow, but I'm fairly sure both approaches would be affected by it. Excellent video as always Stefan. I have also been very impressed by Robin's videos. It is such a joy to have so many highly skilled machinists sharing their knowledge with us all.
I love this project. I could not help but think of the much simpler solution of drilling/threading maybe 3 holes parallel to each jaw, and then simply make a couple of sets of precision screws to insert directly into the chuck. That would save you from making the sliding system and still accomplish the same. For rigidity, the screws could be made slightly heftier. Anyway, you already drilled 6 holes into the chuck. 3 more holes should make no difference, and this job could be done in a small fraction of the time. Two or three different length screws would handle almost any job. If the workpiece is so small that you would need to slide into the center of the chuck, I suggest an ER collar or a C5 collar would be better suited anyway.
Just re watching your videos and I don't remember this one. The designer had a great idea and your work was once again a lot of fun to watch. I did wince at the thought of drilling into the face of a chuck. Sacrosanct! Do they play chords at different speeds?
"I ground it to roughly 10 mm....." Calipers read 10.000 .. yah.. ok.. only a caliper reading not a mike...but........ you're one helluva machinist - keep 'em coming
I really like this style. I absolutely agree that the usual spider is too material-intensive. I just wish I had a rotary table. Hard to make either variety without one. Not impossible, but difficult and prone to errors, at least in my hands. I guess parallels will have to work for a while longer... Thank you for sharing this!
But it's not just three bolt holes. It's three slots which have to be either perfectly aligned or oversized resulting in a sloppy fit. I suppose oversized with a through hole to a tapped hole in the face of the chuck would be a reasonable remedy there.
+Jon Miller I know it's not just holes. you drill a .250 hole in the center and the 3 hole pattern. insert dowels and use them to square each slot to the axis of your choosing. it couldn't be much simpler.
20:15 - Those rotary table spindles have a stepped hole at the bottom side. It is a simple matter to turn a shouldered plug with an M 10 or .375 "- UNC female thread and bump it into place. This will allow you to drop a suitable stud into the bore and thread it tight. A washer or clamp and a nut will then hold the work firmly in place.
Stefan i would also machine soft stops so that you can pull the jaws and machine them on the lathe to give you the grip length need as it seems you will never have the exact size you need
good to see someone not fearful, i power tap and turn small bores all day 3mm (dont do drill chuck to tight and tap will spin when at end of hole) easy
Personally I would have put those backstop pins to be precisely between two jaws, that way one would have 6-position support for thin work, 3 from the chucks jaws and 3 from the backstop. The reason behind this is because I've seen it multiple times on pieces bigger than 150 mm in diameter and having 20 mm or so of thickness, that when faced, the part is not straight but "bent" frombetween the jaws, as the material flexes between the jaws away from the cutter. And it likes to sing very very easily :D But the backstop position "problem" is easily solved: just drill & tap more holes to the chuck :)
Stefan, I was familiar with other forms of backstop but not this one. Nice video but why do you prefer this over the 'ball bearing' one? BTW I enjoyed the video very much and your precision. Bob
Very clean, precise work. However, I also started to squirm in my chair when you power-tapped M4 x 0.7 into a blind hole in the chuck body. Question : at 8:33 you describe a "Wise". Please describe - is this a special piece of tooling used only by German engineering firms ?
What would stop you from taking the main jaws out of the chuck and facing off the standoff pegs instead of grinding them? (if you didn't have a grinder anyway)
Hi Stefan I'm a recent subscriber and am binge watching your videos to catch up. The backstop video is awesome but one thing is bothering me a little. When the chuck is on the lathe there is a potential for the stop to become a bullet if the clamps are not tightened all the way. You can't see if they are tight. You could drill and tap for a SHCS behind the stop near the outer edge of the chuck face. This would provide a safety stop.
normally i would say the same but not if stefan is doing it he's the master of precision and if he power taps it wont break ... me as a normal human would never do that cause mine would break immediately :-))
the only thing that might happen should you not tighten the clamp enough is the movable piece shooting out by centrifugal force might be a good idea to put some sort of max extension locking pin intoo the design so the blocks cant come out completely and just give you a little scare instead of damaging stuff
hi Stefan very nice and accurate job, however i prefer To work small tickness with soft jaws machined a shoulder in the lathe. i follow your videos. .. you are a Vulcan of ideas And suggestions. ..thank you. a question for you. ..where di you Buy your broach set? regards Riccardo
Hi Stefan, I'm not proud to say that I know what a forgotten parallel does in a chip pan, something you only do once... NOT TO BE TRIED AT HOME.... Let the pros do it... lol The hardened pins are a good idea since it's easy to make many different height. Cheers, Pierre
Hi mate. I must be the exception to general consensus, but I think that you created a lot of work for yourself, putting it on and taking it off when needing a just simple backstop. I think I prefer the set that Tom uses, quick and easy. Nice and accurate job, though, but that is to be expected from you.
Have you ever tried a piece of bar with a bearing mounted in the tool post? Just touch the bearing surface against the part and it will align. Maybe it is not as accurate, I saw it on clickspring.
@@StefanGotteswinter I did check it out, but I only have a 150mm chuck like yours and I done have the room. I don't have a surface grinder, so I will turn the posts in place on the lathe.
Joe piezinski's also got a video on simple backstops that are soft, screwed to the chuck face with counter- bored shcs's, and faced on the lathe to identical heights.
You might want to think about hardening the parts the pins screw into. Over time the pins will start to eat into those parts and mess up the height. Not much mind you but every little bit counts in such a nice setup. BTW, how true does the face of your chuck run?
Yes, I think I am going to do that, harden it and then take it to the grinder one last time... The face of my chuck is less than 1/100mm runout..and if it wasnt I would take a slight facing cut...or surfacegrind it :)
Definitely needs some kind of a safety stop to prevent the sliding part from flinging out when you forget to tighten the screws or something else goes wrong and for example vibrations work the screws loose...
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Anyone that is bitching about "Over complicated" "too much work" needs to go back and watch some more videos, familiarise themselves with the precision that is the norm for this channel.
It's a joy to see someone else that does things because it's the right way to do them, and isn't afraid of taking a long route to get precision.
i would've machined some soft jaws to fit the work piece, tbh.
Use a internal circlip / snap ring.
Works like a charm.
Fit it in the grooves
I have been in machining for 20 years and have yet to find a more simple method of quick back stopping a workpiece in a Chuck
Interesting, you hope? I was so mesmerized I forgot to sip my coffee, and it got cold. The detail and precision of your work fascinates me. It is interesting and informative to hear your reasoning as you develop a design. Too, the quality of your videos is just superb. You are in the super-hero class! ;)
Very nicely done Stefan! I am honored that you found something useful in one of my videos. I use my stops all the time and as you know they are very handy.
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin! I am glad that you share your experience so willingly with the world, lots to learn :)
nice! have never seen this style of back stop.
Thanks! Me neither, until I saw it in Robins video.
Stefan, I totally like your thinking outside the box as they say. I enjoy your attention to detail, and I like your small surface grinder! Thanks for sharing buddy. Razor!
Thank you Stefan. YES this was interesting for me! (as always). As I have said before, I learn so much from your videos. I don't understand why you "only" have 14K subscribers. Your channel is a no nonsense, straight to the point, focused on the details machining channel. Nice editing as well. I recommend this channel at every opportunity.
Keep up the good work.
It is so great to see someone doing such precision work with a little 9 x 20 lathe, especially when you are making upgrade parts for that lathe. I am always watching these guys on youtube with their big, heavy, precision lathes and I suffer from lathe envy. You give me hope as well as good ideas for my little 9 x 20 benchtop lathe. You sir, are an inspiration, even after you upgraded to your newer, larger Enco. The time you spent, sharing your knowledge, will be appreciated for many years to come by those of us in the hobby community. You rock!
Excellent video as usual Stephan! Thanks for taking the time necessary in order to share it with all of us.
Hi Stefan, beautifully elegant solution to "the washer problem", one truly has to appreciate the lengths you go to for precision. Well done and thanks.
Very nice work Stefan. I like also your notebook for ideas, sketches, improvements, etc.
Amazing Stefan! Thank you for sharing your extensive knowledge.
Great idea, and outstanding step x step tutorial on the build.
Cheers,
Paul.
Your videos as well as your work are of the same high standard. Nice tip on the rotary table, Thanks.
Stefan, your skills and attention to detail are truly inspirational.
Thank you!
Fascinating as ever. Such courage power tapping your chuck. The confidence of the expert.
Nice job and a great idea Stefan. The back stops will be very handy.
The belows on the surface grinder are looking good! Excellent video as always.
Nice project! I like the explanations behind your methods.
Outstanding work as usual. Great addition. Great video.
Great job Stefan. A very precise way to get parts to sit correctly in the chuck. My list of items to make gets longer and longer. :-) regards from the UK
Very nice upgrade Stephan! Thanks, Doug
thats a useful addition i think. nice neat design. good to see it in action, thanks for a great video.
Very nice Stefan, heading down to my basment shop right away. Thanks.
Great idea on this. Enjoyed watching and learned on this. Thanks.
Very well thought out plan, Stefan.
Ha "we better not mess this up" hell no, I would be very scared to drill my chuck. Beautiful job as always
I haven't watched the whole video yet but talk about "reinventing the wheel "!
Joe Pie uses three drilled and tapped holes in the chuck body between the chuck jaws. Into these three holes he screws premade, you could grind them to length I suppose, three machined "standoffs" of the appropriate length. He keeps three sets that equate to the depths of the jaw steps. Screw in the applicable set, mount your stock and machine.
If you need to make sure they're all the same or a different height just take the jaws out, run a skim cut over the posts, and re insert the jaws ready for your stock.
I do believe he has a video about them on his channel.
Excellent video! Thanks for your time and sharing!!!
Exellent job Stefan !
Great video and build!
If you put a ring of felt between the plate and the back plate inside the chuck, you won't get any more chips inside. Felt to allow for expansion without interference. I did the same thing on my mini lathe's chuck.
so i just finished the build of this backstop ... i use all of the possibilities you talk about at the beginning only Toms from oxtoolco i have to try in the future ... i think every backstop option has its good and less good sides so i use whats the best for the job ... oh god if i hear me talking someone could think i know what i do :-)) im lightyears from stefan , old tony , tom or joe p. from texas away nearly all i know i learned from them and some books of Harold Hall or Tubalcain i just want to thank stefan for his work and that he is willing to show us how it should be done .... thanx...
Magnifique boulot ,très bonne idée et vraiment efficace ... 👌
Very nice project, well thought out and executed.
I too took a liking to Rob Renzetti's chuck stops. I think your interpretation is excellent. I will put some on the list of shop jobs. I think I will have to retire to get all these jobs done! As usual, great video Stefan.
So many projects, so little time ;)
Thanks Rupert!
Awesome project and good job. Keep them coming.
Best Matt
Thanks :)
I could see this being a huge time saver doing repetitive setups. Nicely done.
Thank you! I used it on this weekend already for a small production run, and it was a great timesafer :)
Stefan, so wie man es von Dir kennt, Präzisionsarbeit vom Feinsten, sauber dokumentiert.
Ich bin schon auf Deine nächste Idee gespannt.
Gruß, Hugo
Danke Hugo! :)
Nice work Stefan, thank you.
Excellent. What a great idea. I'm going to make a set for my chuck. As always, an outstanding video. You are my guru. Thank you.
Glad that you got inspired by it, thanks for watching and commenting :)
Stefan..I've been watching all of your videos recently and I've started copying some of your ideas. I had a suggestion for the sliding parts of your stand-offs, You might drill and tap the inside end of each piece and attach a low head cap screw that partly covers the end of the slot. That way if for some reason the clamp was loose on one of the sliders it wouldn't go flying when you turned on the lathe. It would be caught by the tongue of the clamp. It looks like you have enough room so it wouldn't restrict your adjustments. EDIT...I see that your screws are close to the end. Perhaps a thin plate welded on would work..... Thanks for all of the inspirations.
Great idea with excellent execution
I have now witnessed the One Tooth Jaw Punch err Pinch! Unreal how short a region you've managed to get a perfect offset, plus rigidity that might be useful when scribing lines or cutting a key. Still not caught up, but this was worth the time travel. Definitely. I can't actually tell you to keep it up, since this is 7 years ago. I'll go with Congratulations and much future success!
just my 2 cents worth, grinding the tool without warping it lay it diagonally on chuck so you are only grinding a portion at each crank that way you can take a heavier cut with less heat.
Fantastic job, one recommendation, If you use some small shim washers under the hardened depth stops they wont wear the surface of the mounts out where they tighten down.
Great when you have the right tools.... good vid, very educational!!!
HE'S A WITCH!!
Great Video.
I must say I understood every bit of what you were doing, but not until the last did I grasp that there were three stops, one for each jaw. Of course, you only showed one being made . Again of course, you need three points to establish a plane, see remedial Euclid. I knew that you knew that, so I was confused until I saw die ganze Sache, then it all became clear. Hmm.I use parallels for the purpose, same as you showed, adjustable parallels in my case. If I were doing production work, I would certainly consider this stop.Bravo!
Very nice! Thank you for posting it.
Stefan, nice work! Good machining! However, why not just use 'soft jaws'? They are so versatile and (if used correctly) extremely accurate!
Excellent, what else is there to say? Also, I like your organization of the tools into a set.This problem of holding a thin part always seems to happen to me when we are in a big hurry. This is the best solution I have ever seen. Thank you for sharing this one!
I noticed you got new covers for surface grinder columns 👍
Very nice project. I hope to see more in the future.
Stefan, a part like that is best placed diagonally on the mag Chuck. it allows for cooler grinding.
Very good design and very well made.
Realy good construction!!👍
Another Fine Video,As Usual... I Cant Get Enough !!!!!
very nice setup !
Nicely done.
All the best,
Tom
Thank you Tom!
very nice and very usable which will save tons of set up time in the future!
Cheers
Thanks! It has already proven very usefull this weekend, I used it a ton :)
Great project!
Small point for viewers in the US: Stefan's 125mm chuck is ~ five inch, not six.
Nice built, I can really imagine this to come in handy.
I only have one doubt, had you ever feared those sliders to come loose and shoot around the shop at high rpm? Maybe a hard stop would be nice to lock the sliding parts from moving out to far.
I am still "mill-less" and undoubtedly ignorant, but when you are aligning the work with an indicator while traversing along it with the power feed, wouldn't it be quicker to knock the piece until the indicator needle becomes stationary, rather than knocking it back to zero? I imagine that knocking it until you reach zero will always rotate the piece and require a repeat pass. I know that the material has a bow, but I'm fairly sure both approaches would be affected by it.
Excellent video as always Stefan. I have also been very impressed by Robin's videos. It is such a joy to have so many highly skilled machinists sharing their knowledge with us all.
Very cool project!!
i like your precision in everything, one question: what is the name/number of the green color you used on the lathe?
I love this project. I could not help but think of the much simpler solution of drilling/threading maybe 3 holes parallel to each jaw, and then simply make a couple of sets of precision screws to insert directly into the chuck. That would save you from making the sliding system and still accomplish the same. For rigidity, the screws could be made slightly heftier.
Anyway, you already drilled 6 holes into the chuck. 3 more holes should make no difference, and this job could be done in a small fraction of the time. Two or three different length screws would handle almost any job. If the workpiece is so small that you would need to slide into the center of the chuck, I suggest an ER collar or a C5 collar would be better suited anyway.
Very nice design.:-)
Just re watching your videos and I don't remember this one. The designer had a great idea and your work was once again a lot of fun to watch. I did wince at the thought of drilling into the face of a chuck. Sacrosanct! Do they play chords at different speeds?
"I ground it to roughly 10 mm....." Calipers read 10.000 .. yah.. ok.. only a caliper reading not a mike...but........ you're one helluva machinist - keep 'em coming
Beautiful. Thanks for sharing it.
I really like this style. I absolutely agree that the usual spider is too material-intensive. I just wish I had a rotary table. Hard to make either variety without one. Not impossible, but difficult and prone to errors, at least in my hands. I guess parallels will have to work for a while longer...
Thank you for sharing this!
I don't think it's hard to make a spider using the the 3 bolt hole function?
But it's not just three bolt holes. It's three slots which have to be either perfectly aligned or oversized resulting in a sloppy fit. I suppose oversized with a through hole to a tapped hole in the face of the chuck would be a reasonable remedy there.
+Jon Miller I know it's not just holes. you drill a .250 hole in the center and the 3 hole pattern. insert dowels and use them to square each slot to the axis of your choosing. it couldn't be much simpler.
20:15 - Those rotary table spindles have a stepped hole at the bottom side.
It is a simple matter to turn a shouldered plug with an M 10 or .375 "- UNC female thread and bump it into place.
This will allow you to drop a suitable stud into the bore and thread it tight.
A washer or clamp and a nut will then hold the work firmly in place.
Stefan i would also machine soft stops so that you can pull the jaws and machine them on the lathe to give you the grip length
need
as it seems you will never have the exact size you need
good to see someone not fearful, i power tap and turn small bores all day 3mm (dont do drill chuck to tight and tap will spin when at end of hole) easy
Very neat, thank you.
Do you have a video on making the chamfering tool you used? That's a great idea and I'd like to build something similar.
Personally I would have put those backstop pins to be precisely between two jaws, that way one would have 6-position support for thin work, 3 from the chucks jaws and 3 from the backstop. The reason behind this is because I've seen it multiple times on pieces bigger than 150 mm in diameter and having 20 mm or so of thickness, that when faced, the part is not straight but "bent" frombetween the jaws, as the material flexes between the jaws away from the cutter. And it likes to sing very very easily :D
But the backstop position "problem" is easily solved: just drill & tap more holes to the chuck :)
Would you do a short video on the hand made spot drill? (if you haven't already and i missed it) Thank you and great work!
What a great idea. A lot of work, but we'll worth it.
Great video and a nice simplification of Robin's design. Do you have any more info on your chamfering machine?
Yes! :)
gtwr.de/projects/pro_chamfer/index.html
Stefan,
I was familiar with other forms of backstop but not this one. Nice video but why do you prefer this over the 'ball bearing' one? BTW I enjoyed the video very much and your precision.
Bob
Very clean, precise work.
However, I also started to squirm in my chair when you power-tapped M4 x 0.7 into a blind hole in the chuck body.
Question : at 8:33 you describe a "Wise". Please describe - is this a special piece of tooling used only by German engineering firms ?
Very well done
Hi, neat design. What surface grinder do you have?
What would stop you from taking the main jaws out of the chuck and facing off the standoff pegs instead of grinding them? (if you didn't have a grinder anyway)
Hi Stefan I'm a recent subscriber and am binge watching your videos to catch up. The backstop video is awesome but one thing is bothering me a little. When the chuck is on the lathe there is a potential for the stop to become a bullet if the clamps are not tightened all the way. You can't see if they are tight. You could drill and tap for a SHCS behind the stop near the outer edge of the chuck face. This would provide a safety stop.
Elegant adaptation.
What kind of a mad man power taps a blind hole into their 3 jaw chuck!!!
It made me nervous just watching.
Thats my kind of extreme sport ;)
Bungee Jumping? Mixed martial arts? Indoor chess? - Pff!
Rigid powertapping a blind hole! Thats the real deal ;)
Haha, Beautiful work. It would be better if you had a checked floor though!
normally i would say the same but not if stefan is doing it he's the master of precision and if he power taps it wont break ... me as a normal human would never do that cause mine would break immediately :-))
the only thing that might happen should you not tighten the clamp enough is the movable piece shooting out by centrifugal force
might be a good idea to put some sort of max extension locking pin intoo the design so the blocks cant come out completely and just give you a little scare instead of damaging stuff
hi Stefan very nice and accurate job, however i prefer To work small tickness with soft jaws machined a shoulder in the lathe. i follow your videos. .. you are a Vulcan of ideas And suggestions. ..thank you.
a question for you. ..where di you Buy your broach set?
regards Riccardo
Hi Stefan,
I'm not proud to say that I know what a forgotten parallel does in a chip pan, something you only do once... NOT TO BE TRIED AT HOME.... Let the pros do it... lol
The hardened pins are a good idea since it's easy to make many different height.
Cheers, Pierre
assemble the chuck and back plate with a o-ring to keep the chips out the back
Hi mate. I must be the exception to general consensus, but I think that you created a lot of work for yourself, putting it on and taking it off when needing a just simple backstop. I think I prefer the set that Tom uses, quick and easy. Nice and accurate job, though, but that is to be expected from you.
Yeah, but when I need a precise backstop, its generaly for more than one part, and thats when this setup totaly shines :)
Depends on how often you need to do precise alignment on a previously machined part, mate.
exactly, I know Tom to be a very exacting machinist, so that's why I like his design better.
Have you ever tried a piece of bar with a bearing mounted in the tool post? Just touch the bearing surface against the part and it will align. Maybe it is not as accurate, I saw it on clickspring.
A brilliant project. I hope you don't mind if I more or less copy your design on my chuck... Great work!
Be also sure to check out Robin Renzetti ("ROBRENZ") on youtube, he showed the inspiration to this project.
@@StefanGotteswinter I did check it out, but I only have a 150mm chuck like yours and I done have the room. I don't have a surface grinder, so I will turn the posts in place on the lathe.
Joe piezinski's also got a video on simple backstops that are soft, screwed to the chuck face with counter- bored shcs's, and faced on the lathe to identical heights.
I love your little chamfering machine - any more info on it? Is it build around a router spindle?
Not only a video, also a writeup :)
gtwr.de/projects/pro_chamfer/index.html
Stefan Gotteswinter Awesome, thanks!
You might want to think about hardening the parts the pins screw into. Over time the pins will start to eat into those parts and mess up the height. Not much mind you but every little bit counts in such a nice setup. BTW, how true does the face of your chuck run?
Yes, I think I am going to do that, harden it and then take it to the grinder one last time...
The face of my chuck is less than 1/100mm runout..and if it wasnt I would take a slight facing cut...or surfacegrind it :)
Definitely needs some kind of a safety stop to prevent the sliding part from flinging out when you forget to tighten the screws or something else goes wrong and for example vibrations work the screws loose...
The moment I forget to check my setup I will quit my day job. :)