As a female German car owner doing my own repairs most of the time, this was super interesting, no wasted time, descriptive and funny when we got to the overalls part. Enjoyed this much and I enjoy how I am able to maintain my car affordably with these useful videos. thank you!
Very nice job with step by step explanation with jacking method, lighting during video, and precautions like the left and right hand component versions. Thanks again
enjoyed your production, I found it to be very helpful and descriptive, and no wasteful , useless video time. kept me interested the whole time. keep up great work.
Great video Raymond!!! I have already checked my 2010 CLS300(C300) and both sides are blown..The MB Dealership wants $800.00 to do the repairs but I priced both left and right sway bars at Advance Auto for less than $100 ...I will do this job myself!!!
@@sharhondareynolds8548 you should probably go to an alignment shop and have them put the car up on the lift and check it to be absolutely sure that is the cause of the noise. They are called swaybar links. If you are going to do the work yourself follow his instructions in the video. If you don't check them first and you replace them and that is not the problem you're going to be really mad at yourself.
@@wernerdanler2742 would they not check this when I got an alignment for my new front tires? They never said anything about it... I just know I hear it when I turn ...drivers left wheel
@@sharhondareynolds8548 most alignment shops dont check for bad parts when doing an alignment. You have to ask them to do it and you should be there watching them so they cannot lie to you. Not all mechanics are created equal. I have had some tell me some really outrageous lies. Some are just ignorant. Just walk away if they wont show you the problem and find another shop.
People will always say you only have to change one, just like my mechanic did when it was having an inspection. He diagnosed both arms on passenger side were worn and needed replacing, but the other side didn’t need touching as it wasn’t as bad. I got the set so thought I’d just fit both, however, I couldn’t do it in one day so split the job over two. They’re a bit of a pain to get to on the driveway but do-able! With one side changed, the car cornered one way better than the other, so I had to do the other side, no questions about it. When taking apart the side that ‘didn’t need touching’, the bushes were split with grease leaking. Imagine doing one side and paying for an alignment then the other side going shortly after! So I 100% agree with you on replacing both sides.
Thanks, I successfully replaced my links on 2015 e350. Different parts but similar procedures. It certainly was tough finding a torx driver to fit the lower bolt and I wasn't able to fit ny torque wrench on the top or bottom so just made it good and tight.
This is a job I have to do on my own W204 as soon as I get it back from the dealer (awaiting a replacement rear subframe but that's a whole different story). In fact the problem was picked up when the car was inspected at the dealer. Worn drop links will fail the UK MoT test so the inspection is going to save me whole lot of trouble and the car should pass the MoT test when it becomes due (or at least not fail as badly).
I've just had my rear subframe done (for free) by mercedes and I asked them to MOT it -and it failed on loads of front suspension bits -sway arms cross struts etc... £600 to fix...and I haven't the tools to do it myself..sad times
The dealer should've inspected the whole car. They found a load of other things wrong with mine when it went in for the rear subframe replacement. I fixed them all myself and my car passed the MoT when it was due with only 3 advisories. When dealers carry out MoTs they will pick up on every last little item and they will obviously only use genuine Mercedes parts so £600 isn't too bad considering. Does the price include labour? My local dealer charges £150 per hour.
Great info pretty sure I have axle going back getting weird noises clicking sometimes when steering steep and a sound that sounds like when u would put a pop can in bicycle tire sometimes
Probably the front axles, they are pretty weak on these mercedes and very very expensive from the dealer, I have used ones sitting for when mine go, if you see a good deal for some used ones, dont hesitate unless you are willing to spend 1500 per side at the dealer, + the seals + the labor..
I’ve looked and looked for remaned it used ones and can’t find them anywhere they say never tear up so that’s why they aren’t any??? Also had a garage take a look today and everything seems tight the flex disc axle etc said that it may it needed put inline and maybe a wheel Bearing I’m ready to trade it in... any ideas
+nick castle Flex disc you will feel when you shift. There are 2 of them and need to be replaced every 100k no ifs or buts! They are rubber hockey pucks that dampen the feel of the transmission. Over time they crack and fling around under the car causing severe damage. They are easy to replace and cost about $50 each. EVERY Mercedes has them so don't think you are off the hook if you get another model. The wheel bearing will be felt if you slow down and make noise. You can see if you have a bad one by simply jacking up the car and pushing/pulling the tire it should remain tight with no play, also give it a spin and feel for lockup.
Good video! only one correction. It depends on what model Mercedes you have that the Sway Bar Links are different. I own the Meredes CLA250 4Matic and the sway bar links are the same on both sides.
No noises but slight bump steer. I looked at them yesterday. The right one is bleeding and the left turns between two fingers. Yes, its time for mine too. Your old piece looks slightly bent.
Raymond Urias I saw your comment down here for a diff steering wheel I want to put the 2013 steering wheel but it’s hard without visual help. my car is exactly like yours from the ugly interior but mine a c350 I ordered the headlights !!
good video, but actually to tight them correctly you need to add some load on the suspension, you must re-tight them properly lowering the car on the floor to avoid clunking noises in your suspension.
@@kruisinwkai I use blocks, so the car is lifted then I put the blocks under the tires and drop the car on them, that way I got room to go underneath the car and re tight them . If not you need to go to somebody that has one of does under ground "lifts" like the oil change garage. IF you do not re tight, they will stay somewhat loose and make noise.
@@blass5506 You can add blocks under each wheel. That way you have the car raised, but still have the normal weight of the car on the suspension.that will give you enough room if you are DIY.
This has helped a lot, thank you for all the videos. Just one question though, I know that is an 18mm wrench but what brand/type? Tried using the 18mm wrench I had but didn't have enough clearance between the link and the wheel well.
I recently bought a 2005 C-Class kompressor and when it's driving along smooth as butter but when you go over a speed ramp are aggressively swing the steering wheel the car will wobble in a fishtail like motion when I bought the car on the front right hand side it had one of those space-saving wheels which leads me to believe must have hit something hence the change of wheel would doing the fix you are doing in the video rectified at problem or do you know what it might by hope to hear from you
Thanks for this video, can you explain how the left and right are different? I got 2x different ones when I ordered from my local motor factors in the UK, but I'm not sure which is which? Guessing they'll only fit on one side and are slightly different lengths? Thanks!
Driver side is a little bit shorter but other than that the angles of each side will not be compatible with each other. You won't be able to put the passenger on the driver side
I have a ? My 2009 c 300 sport the stabilizer link is bolted on the right side of the front sruts when I went to put the new one in ,it would not go in on that same side ,so I had to install it topside bolted on the left side of the stut like in this video. I did call Mercedes to make sure I had the right part number for the driver's side but I checked the passenger side it's also installed straight up and down and not slanted like in the video
How could you tighten under tire load if you can’t get access to the sway bar link with the tires installed. The only way I could see that being done is a shop that has a alignment lift. They can raise the entire vehicle with load on the tires to provide access to the links from the inside. Local Independent shop is quoting about $300 for parts and labor? Does that seem excessive, reasonable or below normal? I am sure reasonable and below normal compared to dealer. I am sure they are getting some mark up on the materials but still probably way below dealer price. 2nd Question. Does this project require alignment after or are you not changing the physical steering wheel and tire geometry?
@@stephencannon3140 You can jack up from the spindle to pre load the suspension for proper torque. Probably great using an alignment rack, but obviously not an option for being done in a driveway or regular home garage. Should be very similar on your w212 depending on your suspension package. This is identical to my c207 (e350 coupe) with non adaptive suspension. I got my oe sway bar links for about $50 from fop euro, so $300 sounds way off to me! Obvious price markup plus labor.....and no lifetime warranty like an fcp purchase
Thank you for the video. BTW 0:55 The car is not going to roll back if you have it in park because it is rear wheel drive. Also You had to put two blocks of wood underneath the wheels to lift the car a little, so you can't really do it with a cheap jack, it won't slide underneath. Just go to Harbor Freight and get a low profile jack they are awesome and no that expensive.
Hey that’s a great vid. Can I buy the bushing only for the top part of the sway bar link (front passenger side)? If so, what’s the part number for the bushing only ?
@@RaymondUrias - Hmmm. Mine only lasted about 30K but the struts did fail not too long ago. These don't seem to last very long but our roads here are pretty bad. Thanks.
Just tried to do mine as I’m getting a knock, when jacking the car it slipped off the jack and it went straight through the sump tray. Then coolant emptied and oil started oozing, i had hit the oil cooler!! Most expensive drop links I’ve ever changed!!
Hi, I brought my car to a local dealer shop and an unprofessional mechanic tightened the sway bar links while all four wheels are on the air. I showed your video to him but he didn’t listen. Now I hear clunking noise that is louder than before and I want to replace (only tighten the new sway bar links that is equipped on my car) the sway bar links myself. May I ask you what tools you use in the video? I want to buy them all. Also, will it be safe for me to tighten everything?
I own a W212 E220, and after watching this video went to change my torsion bar linkage, (sway bar) i couldn't remove them they were under pressure i did try so realised i could be off the road if i carried on and forced something, I have a nasty suspicion the wrong linkage has been fitted before i bought the car. Looking at various website in Germany these links come in different lengths !
I just broke a T40 torx bit from Harbor Freight on the front drivers side of a 2011 E350 4matic. How did you get that torx bit off so easy?! Did you use any lubricant? I just stopped the job and I'm going to start again when I have more time to commit to it. Also, Lemforder makes a lot of suspension parts for German vehicles. My Audi Q7, X5 & 7 series all have Lemforder suspension parts, the BMW logo is just ground off, thats how FCP Euro can sell them for so cheap. I always replace my sway bar links with Lemforder parts. Great video!
I've ordered this part for my car and I keep getting a shorter sway bar link. I have know idea what to do. It's for passenger side front and it's a 4 matic. What am I doing wrong?
Typically all the parts with rubber grease filled bushings in front go bad from 65k to 80k miles in these benzes. The rear bushings and suspension tend to go at 90-120k miles.
I ordered the swaybar link off of Amazon etc. fit a 2008 S 5 50 Mercedes but it’s clearly about a half an inch or quarter of an inch longer an angle slightly different. Can I use it still? Will it just raise the car up a little bit higher or will it hit the other part of the frame?
Do you not think Thread locking compound on those nuts would stop the nuts falling off and potentially killing you? Also what about torque settings? I am sure Mercedes have listed one for this crucial part. Tracking adjustment could also be affected after changing these. Diy is ok but you need to be professional.
Lemforder is a top quality mark. I do believe they make parts for mercedes, and they fit a star logo and sell them as OEM. Are you satisfied with the link, how do they hold after almost 2years?
kraimos It's 150nm. They are sealed bearings you can't greese them. You can apply lube on the exterior but it's not recommend since it will attract sand and dirt to get stuck to it and may cause abrasion
Thanks man for all your videos. I wish I have seen them sooner. I’ve spent $250 to get mine done 2 months ago. And now I was told I need both my left control arms replaced. Hopefully I can face up to the challenge and get them replaced myself. Welcome any suggestions on how and where to get affordable Benz parts please. Thank you
@RaymondUrias iv just had mine done...and 4 days later iv got a loud clunking noise even on smooth uneven roads...to me if feels like anti roll bar bushes..its like a clunking rattling noise
Did you have to change anything else? I just changed mines at 60k miles because it was making that noice you talking about when you turn but when I got them change the noice wasn't as loud as before but still there. Is there any other bushing you have to change to get rid of the noise when turning?
I did this on my 98 Volvo. They are identical. Now I have 2001 e320. I do get a little knock on the left side so may need to replace those links. Just replaced the lower control arms and ball joints. Waa
Sup Raymond, would you be kind enough to tell me the mileage when these failed ? My car is high mileage and 10 years old and im surprised the oem links are still holding tight.
Perhaps, 36k is very low, I mean mine are at 220k, the ball joints in them still felt tight but with the harsh winters and probably the worse roads in north america Im surprised they are holding up.. I know this because I've replace ball joints on both sides, all the tie rods and the strut bushings, sport shocks make it harsh on our roads here but the links are still holding for now haha. I was wondering why you have a "comfort" steering wheel (4 spoke) when your bumpers indicate you have a sport model ?
+ltwargssf R That's insane I have never heard of them lasting that long! Our roads suck here so I'm sure that kills them off quicker. Ok you are the first person to notice this. The car is the Luxury model but the factory gave it the sport exterior. I am in the process of getting a the parts needed to change the wheel to sport AMG wheel and the shifter as well...I Almost, almost have everything I need.
Awesome man, cant wait to see a video of all that, I'm personally waiting for my flat bottom steering wheel from a 2012 e350 sport that i got cheap from ebay, cant wait.
I wish someone could tell me the answer because mine did not come out easy I had to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side to get the part out and puting the new one in it will not go in the same way it came out the nut is on the left side of the strut mount . It came out the nut was bolted on the right side .it won't go on that way because it's to long. But I matched to the one that came out it's the same size . I have turned that steering wheel every wich way ,it won't go in the way it came out. It's weird I have no issues driving but after trying multiple times to re do it to try and get it in that same way. I stripped the threads just a little on the part ,so now I'm not taking it off. the shop will have to, if it's on wrong .
Raymond I discourage you and other youtubers from using that type of jack on the plastic jacking point on the front xmember. The plastic jack point is hollow and will break, the jack will then slide of the xmember and punch through undercarriage tray and oil lines above (I learnt the hard way). Best use a larger jack and a piece of timber , beneath the jack point. Thanks for the video.
Torx is so much better than Allan, you gotta use the right size. So many people use 1 size smaller and they strip it. If you use the right torx you’re fine. German bolts are usually good
I would like to add - for those c240 4 matics with the wishbone control arm - the sway bar links can be a real "bitch" to get off. The only adjustment from this video is the top bolt is a t40 torque with a 19mm and the bottom is a 16mm (there is a torque fitting but i did not have and the car was already jacked up so i was able to use an Allen wrench and channel locks) If you hit it with penetrating oil, WD 40 etc....be liberal with it and give it some time and it will be much easier. The right side almost took an hour by itself because of the "bolt lock" but the left side was changed out in less than 10 minutes. It is a quick an easy do-it-yourself, but patience is worth more than trying to save mere minutes by rushing. Everything from Pelican went right on with no fuss and already the car is handling way, way, way better! Thanks again for this video as it helped me understand how to do it!
New Mercedes model design a longer sway bar than old model, making higher torque and shorter life. I think spray AT205 to rubber area can't help much, need regular replacement.
@@RaymondUrias that fixed the issue thank u a ton for saving me alot money on control arms and joints plus the labor. Keep the vids coming thanks again
As a female German car owner doing my own repairs most of the time, this was super interesting, no wasted time, descriptive and funny when we got to the overalls part. Enjoyed this much and I enjoy how I am able to maintain my car affordably with these useful videos. thank you!
@ellebarriteau5640 do always fix on your car
Very nice job with step by step explanation with jacking method, lighting during video, and precautions like the left and right hand component versions. Thanks again
mechanic quoted me 225 $ for labor and 180$ for parts to fix the sway bar now I can do it myself on a CLK 500. Much appreciated
enjoyed your production, I found it to be very helpful and descriptive, and no wasteful , useless video time. kept me interested the whole time. keep up great work.
Finally someone covered this, I have a C207 so a lot of components shared with the W204, and most videos are tailored to the SUVs or the w212.
Great video Raymond!!! I have already checked my 2010 CLS300(C300) and both sides are blown..The MB Dealership wants $800.00 to do the repairs but I priced both left and right sway bars at Advance Auto for less than $100 ...I will do this job myself!!!
I think dealers are the rapists Trump is always talking about. Lol
I have a c240, 2003. I'm hearing the knock as well. What do I ask for at advance Auto ?
@@sharhondareynolds8548 you should probably go to an alignment shop and have them put the car up on the lift and check it to be absolutely sure that is the cause of the noise. They are called swaybar links. If you are going to do the work yourself follow his instructions in the video. If you don't check them first and you replace them and that is not the problem you're going to be really mad at yourself.
@@wernerdanler2742 would they not check this when I got an alignment for my new front tires? They never said anything about it... I just know I hear it when I turn ...drivers left wheel
@@sharhondareynolds8548 most alignment shops dont check for bad parts when doing an alignment. You have to ask them to do it and you should be there watching them so they cannot lie to you. Not all mechanics are created equal. I have had some tell me some really outrageous lies. Some are just ignorant. Just walk away if they wont show you the problem and find another shop.
People will always say you only have to change one, just like my mechanic did when it was having an inspection. He diagnosed both arms on passenger side were worn and needed replacing, but the other side didn’t need touching as it wasn’t as bad. I got the set so thought I’d just fit both, however, I couldn’t do it in one day so split the job over two. They’re a bit of a pain to get to on the driveway but do-able! With one side changed, the car cornered one way better than the other, so I had to do the other side, no questions about it. When taking apart the side that ‘didn’t need touching’, the bushes were split with grease leaking. Imagine doing one side and paying for an alignment then the other side going shortly after! So I 100% agree with you on replacing both sides.
Yup this is why they don't sell just one shoe in the box. Make sense to do pairs together.
The giant wrench and coveralls
Thanks, I successfully replaced my links on 2015 e350. Different parts but similar procedures. It certainly was tough finding a torx driver to fit the lower bolt and I wasn't able to fit ny torque wrench on the top or bottom so just made it good and tight.
Check your control arms also as they wear also and can also make a clunk going over bumps!
This is a job I have to do on my own W204 as soon as I get it back from the dealer (awaiting a replacement rear subframe but that's a whole different story). In fact the problem was picked up when the car was inspected at the dealer. Worn drop links will fail the UK MoT test so the inspection is going to save me whole lot of trouble and the car should pass the MoT test when it becomes due (or at least not fail as badly).
I've just had my rear subframe done (for free) by mercedes and I asked them to MOT it -and it failed on loads of front suspension bits -sway arms cross struts etc... £600 to fix...and I haven't the tools to do it myself..sad times
The dealer should've inspected the whole car. They found a load of other things wrong with mine when it went in for the rear subframe replacement. I fixed them all myself and my car passed the MoT when it was due with only 3 advisories. When dealers carry out MoTs they will pick up on every last little item and they will obviously only use genuine Mercedes parts so £600 isn't too bad considering. Does the price include labour? My local dealer charges £150 per hour.
I was under my car yesterday and noticed mine were bad....now I know how to fix them . Thanks👍🏾
Great info pretty sure I have axle going back getting weird noises clicking sometimes when steering steep and a sound that sounds like when u would put a pop can in bicycle tire sometimes
+nick castle yup that's the noise definitely louder when you turn. If it's not that check the control arms.
Probably the front axles, they are pretty weak on these mercedes and very very expensive from the dealer, I have used ones sitting for when mine go, if you see a good deal for some used ones, dont hesitate unless you are willing to spend 1500 per side at the dealer, + the seals + the labor..
I’ve looked and looked for remaned it used ones and can’t find them anywhere they say never tear up so that’s why they aren’t any??? Also had a garage take a look today and everything seems tight the flex disc axle etc said that it may it needed put inline and maybe a wheel Bearing I’m ready to trade it in... any ideas
+nick castle Flex disc you will feel when you shift. There are 2 of them and need to be replaced every 100k no ifs or buts! They are rubber hockey pucks that dampen the feel of the transmission. Over time they crack and fling around under the car causing severe damage. They are easy to replace and cost about $50 each. EVERY Mercedes has them so don't think you are off the hook if you get another model. The wheel bearing will be felt if you slow down and make noise. You can see if you have a bad one by simply jacking up the car and pushing/pulling the tire it should remain tight with no play, also give it a spin and feel for lockup.
+nick castle maybe you can make a video of the noise and a video of that area with the tire off.
love it! Great Content , well produced with music ! I will be tuning in again.
Good video! only one correction. It depends on what model Mercedes you have that the Sway Bar Links are different. I own the Meredes CLA250 4Matic and the sway bar links are the same on both sides.
Same here i have a E350 4matic they are the same
@@kamogwap8835 I just changed my front sway link bars on my 2011 E350 4Matic and they are also the same on both sides.
Very helpful and looks easy to do myself saving me heaps of money! Thanks👍
No noises but slight bump steer. I looked at them yesterday. The right one is bleeding and the left turns between two fingers. Yes, its time for mine too. Your old piece looks slightly bent.
I love your videos so much !!! You’ve came a long way for me and pushed me to work on my car waiting for another video.
+Snoopy4156 Damn man that's awesome!!! ALOT more content coming and big installs planned soon!
Raymond Urias I saw your comment down here for a diff steering wheel I want to put the 2013 steering wheel but it’s hard without visual help. my car is exactly like yours from the ugly interior but mine a c350 I ordered the headlights !!
good video, but actually to tight them correctly you need to add some load on the suspension, you must re-tight them properly lowering the car on the floor to avoid clunking noises in your suspension.
J curious cause your comment does make sense but how would you re-tight it while your cars on the floor giving the suspension load?
@@kruisinwkai I use blocks, so the car is lifted then I put the blocks under the tires and drop the car on them, that way I got room to go underneath the car and re tight them . If not you need to go to somebody that has one of does under ground "lifts" like the oil change garage. IF you do not re tight, they will stay somewhat loose and make noise.
@@oneemotiva4975 What if you just used the jack to artificially supply load to the suspension components?
How you can go under when
Lowering the car? There s no room
@@blass5506 You can add blocks under each wheel. That way you have the car raised, but still have the normal weight of the car on the suspension.that will give you enough room if you are DIY.
This has helped a lot, thank you for all the videos. Just one question though, I know that is an 18mm wrench but what brand/type? Tried using the 18mm wrench I had but didn't have enough clearance between the link and the wheel well.
Hey very useful the video, thank you so much... I need to repair my car by myself and you have helped me a lot...
I recently bought a 2005 C-Class kompressor and when it's driving along smooth as butter but when you go over a speed ramp are aggressively swing the steering wheel the car will wobble in a fishtail like motion when I bought the car on the front right hand side it had one of those space-saving wheels which leads me to believe must have hit something hence the change of wheel would doing the fix you are doing in the video rectified at problem or do you know what it might by hope to hear from you
Great video, are there any torque specs for the bolts?
150nm
Hi Raymond
There are two attachment points on the strut. To which one must the sway bar link be attached - front or back one?
Great video Raymond!!! Going to check the ones on my 08 c300 now.
Thanks for this video, can you explain how the left and right are different? I got 2x different ones when I ordered from my local motor factors in the UK, but I'm not sure which is which? Guessing they'll only fit on one side and are slightly different lengths? Thanks!
Driver side is a little bit shorter but other than that the angles of each side will not be compatible with each other. You won't be able to put the passenger on the driver side
@@RaymondUrias Thank you!
Excellent video work out like a charm on my Glk 350 2012. It can be aplied to most MB's
I have a ? My 2009 c 300 sport the stabilizer link is bolted on the right side of the front sruts when I went to put the new one in ,it would not go in on that same side ,so I had to install it topside bolted on the left side of the stut like in this video. I did call Mercedes to make sure I had the right part number for the driver's side but I checked the passenger side it's also installed straight up and down and not slanted like in the video
Great video! Are sway bars a component that have to be tightened while the wheels are under the load of the vehicle?
How could you tighten under tire load if you can’t get access to the sway bar link with the tires installed. The only way I could see that being done is a shop that has a alignment lift. They can raise the entire vehicle with load on the tires to provide access to the links from the inside. Local Independent shop is quoting about $300 for parts and labor? Does that seem excessive, reasonable or below normal? I am sure reasonable and below normal compared to dealer. I am sure they are getting some mark up on the materials but still probably way below dealer price.
2nd Question. Does this project require alignment after or are you not changing the physical steering wheel and tire geometry?
This video is for a W204 but would the procedure be the same or pretty close to the same for all W series models? I have a 2011 E350 sedan (W212)
@@stephencannon3140 You can jack up from the spindle to pre load the suspension for proper torque. Probably great using an alignment rack, but obviously not an option for being done in a driveway or regular home garage. Should be very similar on your w212 depending on your suspension package. This is identical to my c207 (e350 coupe) with non adaptive suspension. I got my oe sway bar links for about $50 from fop euro, so $300 sounds way off to me! Obvious price markup plus labor.....and no lifetime warranty like an fcp purchase
@@RothBeyondTheGrave we are in the same boat
Great video - super knowledgeable! My link totally came off the bottom and i wondered why is was pulling so hard lol
is there a rghtside up?can it b placed upside down or no such thing as lng as u do the rght sides?got these replamcement lemforders also myself
Thank you for the video. BTW 0:55 The car is not going to roll back if you have it in park because it is rear wheel drive. Also You had to put two blocks of wood underneath the wheels to lift the car a little, so you can't really do it with a cheap jack, it won't slide underneath. Just go to Harbor Freight and get a low profile jack they are awesome and no that expensive.
$240 for low profile jack. Vs 55 for partial low profile. I could have a shop do this all for less than the cost of a low profile jack.
Hey that’s a great vid. Can I buy the bushing only for the top part of the sway bar link (front passenger side)? If so, what’s the part number for the bushing only ?
It’s for a 2014 MERCEDES BENZ CLA 250.
What was the Mileage When You Replaced the Front Stabilizer Bar Drop Links?
50k
@@RaymondUrias - Hmmm. Mine only lasted about 30K but the struts did fail not too long ago. These don't seem to last very long but our roads here are pretty bad. Thanks.
Just tried to do mine as I’m getting a knock, when jacking the car it slipped off the jack and it went straight through the sump tray. Then coolant emptied and oil started oozing, i had hit the oil cooler!! Most expensive drop links I’ve ever changed!!
Fuuuuuuck that sucks!
Sheesh 🙄 bro
Hi, I brought my car to a local dealer shop and an unprofessional mechanic tightened the sway bar links while all four wheels are on the air. I showed your video to him but he didn’t listen. Now I hear clunking noise that is louder than before and I want to replace (only tighten the new sway bar links that is equipped on my car) the sway bar links myself. May I ask you what tools you use in the video? I want to buy them all. Also, will it be safe for me to tighten everything?
I own a W212 E220, and after watching this video went to change my torsion bar linkage, (sway bar) i couldn't remove them they were under pressure i did try so realised i could be off the road if i carried on and forced something, I have a nasty suspicion the wrong linkage has been fitted before i bought the car. Looking at various website in Germany these links come in different lengths !
I just broke a T40 torx bit from Harbor Freight on the front drivers side of a 2011 E350 4matic. How did you get that torx bit off so easy?! Did you use any lubricant? I just stopped the job and I'm going to start again when I have more time to commit to it. Also, Lemforder makes a lot of suspension parts for German vehicles. My Audi Q7, X5 & 7 series all have Lemforder suspension parts, the BMW logo is just ground off, thats how FCP Euro can sell them for so cheap. I always replace my sway bar links with Lemforder parts. Great video!
Awesome video, love to watch you work on w204
Excellent tutorial again. Can't find where to click for discussion forum though.
Thanks
What question do you have
@@RaymondUrias Where do I access the discussion forum.
My channels homepage click community. Or mbworld.org
Hi Raymond, I thought Lemforder was OE?
Thanks so much for your help and support and advice, time saving plus my money 😅
I've ordered this part for my car and I keep getting a shorter sway bar link. I have know idea what to do. It's for passenger side front and it's a 4 matic. What am I doing wrong?
Any suggestions of where to buy good parts fro mecedez have a e300 2017
Are there rear sway bars links as well?
Yes there are rears as well.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you.
Typically all the parts with rubber grease filled bushings in front go bad from 65k to 80k miles in these benzes. The rear bushings and suspension tend to go at 90-120k miles.
I have the exact same car. Any idea where I can find sway bar bushings?
Fcp euro, online
What should the nuts be torqued to on the sway bar links?
I ordered the swaybar link off of Amazon etc. fit a 2008 S 5 50 Mercedes but it’s clearly about a half an inch or quarter of an inch longer an angle slightly different. Can I use it still? Will it just raise the car up a little bit higher or will it hit the other part of the frame?
Sounds like the wrong part.
It is good to mention that car needs jacked up so theink threads are horizontal to be able to remove.
The link threads
Do you need to do the alignment after this job is done?
No
Thank you very much. Look like I can get this done myself and save some money. Mine needs replacing.
Thanks for helping me of the sway bar link benz 212 4 matic🙏🙏🙏🙏
Do you not think Thread locking compound on those nuts would stop the nuts falling off and potentially killing you? Also what about torque settings? I am sure Mercedes have listed one for this crucial part. Tracking adjustment could also be affected after changing these. Diy is ok but you need to be professional.
Lemforder is a top quality mark. I do believe they make parts for mercedes, and they fit a star logo and sell them as OEM. Are you satisfied with the link, how do they hold after almost 2years?
The are the OE manufactures for mercedes. They made the mercedes one he removed.
What brand u got?
Hi, what torque spec did you use? And did you lubricate the part when finished?
kraimos It's 150nm. They are sealed bearings you can't greese them. You can apply lube on the exterior but it's not recommend since it will attract sand and dirt to get stuck to it and may cause abrasion
Thanks man for all your videos. I wish I have seen them sooner. I’ve spent $250 to get mine done 2 months ago. And now I was told I need both my left control arms replaced. Hopefully I can face up to the challenge and get them replaced myself. Welcome any suggestions on how and where to get affordable Benz parts please. Thank you
How did u know which is left and right...and which side was top and bottom
They only fit one way, you can't put the Left on the Right Side.
@RaymondUrias iv just had mine done...and 4 days later iv got a loud clunking noise even on smooth uneven roads...to me if feels like anti roll bar bushes..its like a clunking rattling noise
@@boigoe oh you did something wrong
Hi Raymond, does the w204 have 4 sway bars? 2 in front and 2 in rear. I have a C250 coupe.
Yes 4 in total
@@RaymondUrias Thanks! Also, when you screw the new sway bars back on, how tight do you have to do it?
Raymond Urias 4 sway bar links, 2 sway bars.
Which model is it ???
Is it same for E250 model???????
Plz help.bro
What year and model is your car? I can't find one that has the screen that comes out of the dash like yours.
obey32398 It's a 2010 C300. The flip up screen is the Navigation system (Ntg 4.5).
Raymond Urias thank you!
That's exactly what's going on with mine.. thanks for the " how to" 👍
Thank you for this vid bro! I think i have to change mine out...
Did you have to change anything else? I just changed mines at 60k miles because it was making that noice you talking about when you turn but when I got them change the noice wasn't as loud as before but still there. Is there any other bushing you have to change to get rid of the noise when turning?
+mc11757 check the control arm bushings and front axel bearing
Check front *lower* control arms
Is there a way to tell which is the top and bottom?
It will only fit one way
Did you use a 3/8 drive and 5mm
You're awesome dude! really helpful! Keep it up!
I did this on my 98 Volvo. They are identical. Now I have 2001 e320. I do get a little knock on the left side so may need to replace those links. Just replaced the lower control arms and ball joints. Waa
About to change mine w212 2014 e350 4 Matic 103k mines is busted 🤦♂️
Hey Raymond you think it’s the same on the 2012 c63 coupe ?
Yes just bigger much bigger
Raymond Urias I’ve placed the order for $100 for both cheaper than $1k that Mercedes wants 😂 is it the same 18 wrench ?
Will that problem cause a clank when driving over bumps?
yes
Sup Raymond, would you be kind enough to tell me the mileage when these failed ? My car is high mileage and 10 years old and im surprised the oem links are still holding tight.
ltwargssf R They are rated for 36k miles tops. Potholes will cut down their life faster. You could have the golden ones auction them off!!
Perhaps, 36k is very low, I mean mine are at 220k, the ball joints in them still felt tight but with the harsh winters and probably the worse roads in north america Im surprised they are holding up.. I know this because I've replace ball joints on both sides, all the tie rods and the strut bushings, sport shocks make it harsh on our roads here but the links are still holding for now haha.
I was wondering why you have a "comfort" steering wheel (4 spoke) when your bumpers indicate you have a sport model ?
+ltwargssf R That's insane I have never heard of them lasting that long! Our roads suck here so I'm sure that kills them off quicker.
Ok you are the first person to notice this. The car is the Luxury model but the factory gave it the sport exterior. I am in the process of getting a the parts needed to change the wheel to sport AMG wheel and the shifter as well...I Almost, almost have everything I need.
Awesome man, cant wait to see a video of all that, I'm personally waiting for my flat bottom steering wheel from a 2012 e350 sport that i got cheap from ebay, cant wait.
description ( apart from part no. ) of what is the difference between left and right will be more helpful. if you have the info.
Hey Raymond, good video man, thanks. Doug (UK)
Ray, do you happen to remember the torque specs for the links?
110NM top of strut
50NM Sway bar
Will these fit my 2009 C300 luxury
I wish someone could tell me the answer because mine did not come out easy I had to turn the steering wheel all the way to one side to get the part out and puting the new one in it will not go in the same way it came out the nut is on the left side of the strut mount . It came out the nut was bolted on the right side .it won't go on that way because it's to long. But I matched to the one that came out it's the same size . I have turned that steering wheel every wich way ,it won't go in the way it came out. It's weird I have no issues driving but after trying multiple times to re do it to try and get it in that same way. I stripped the threads just a little on the part ,so now I'm not taking it off. the shop will have to, if it's on wrong .
Raymond I discourage you and other youtubers from using that type of jack on the plastic jacking point on the front xmember. The plastic jack point is hollow and will break, the jack will then slide of the xmember and punch through undercarriage tray and oil lines above (I learnt the hard way). Best use a larger jack and a piece of timber , beneath the jack point.
Thanks for the video.
exactly what I was thinking
Torx is so much better than Allan, you gotta use the right size. So many people use 1 size smaller and they strip it. If you use the right torx you’re fine. German bolts are usually good
What woud happen if I made a mistake and fit the links wrong way round?
I don't think they will fit. They are side and angle oriented
And it is possible to put them ups and down?
Concise and to the point. Great!
Dude, I have had my car for two years and just learned that piece in the front is the jack point? No shit. I always jack up the side
Awesome! great training explanation.
Great video! Thanks
I would like to add - for those c240 4 matics with the wishbone control arm - the sway bar links can be a real "bitch" to get off. The only adjustment from this video is the top bolt is a t40 torque with a 19mm and the bottom is a 16mm (there is a torque fitting but i did not have and the car was already jacked up so i was able to use an Allen wrench and channel locks) If you hit it with penetrating oil, WD 40 etc....be liberal with it and give it some time and it will be much easier. The right side almost took an hour by itself because of the "bolt lock" but the left side was changed out in less than 10 minutes. It is a quick an easy do-it-yourself, but patience is worth more than trying to save mere minutes by rushing. Everything from Pelican went right on with no fuss and already the car is handling way, way, way better! Thanks again for this video as it helped me understand how to do it!
Great instructional video!
I just checked mine and they goooooooone 😂
like mileage on the clock ??
🙂
It’s good to double check
New Mercedes model design a longer sway bar than old model, making higher torque and shorter life. I think spray AT205 to rubber area can't help much, need regular replacement.
Great informative video.
Thanks.
Will this fix the rattling sounds at low speeds under 50 mph?
This would make a popping sound when you turn and go over bumps
@@RaymondUrias i hear the rattling over uneven payments at low speeds? You think it could be a sway link issue?
Pavements*
@@RaymondUrias that fixed the issue thank u a ton for saving me alot money on control arms and joints plus the labor. Keep the vids coming thanks again
Thanks, need to replace mine now, C200K 2010 W204.
I have a C230 and it's making that clunking noise now. I looked at it and sure enough the rubber is all cracked and broken. 11/25/20
Dude i had this problem starting about a week ago, sounds like its the same issue. Going to look at it today and find out.
+Legal Drug Dealer if it is then it will be a cheap easy fix! Save yourself some money 🤑
I can't install the new one, it's just a bit distance away from fitting
Do you have the right part.
If you can confirm that it is the right part indeed then try taking the jack and raising it up so the bolts line up
@@RaymondUrias Thanks, I did it. My steering wheel wasn't straight
What year and model is your Mercedes?
2010 c300
@@RaymondUrias Thank you!
Great video thanks mate 😊
Thank you very well explained..
Nice....I will get the other one to replace immediately
Wow I never new about that centre jack point ! Thabksb
be careful not to punch a hole through the hollow plastic, just behind are oil lines