Shop the products used in this video: Mercedes W203 Front Control Arms: www.fcpeuro.com/Mercedes~Benz-parts/CLK550/Control-Arms-and-Bushings/?year=2008&m=20&e=2119
Easily one of the very best made instructional videos on you tube. Thanks for the patient clear description, and very clear, well lit video and also specifying the torque for the various nuts during re-assembly.
The inner bolts for both arms are supposed to be tightened with weight on the wheels. Otherwise you will have tightened them into position where they will twist once the car is on the ground. This will tear them prematurely.
16:05 on the outter left side, what do you see? Thats a lift, suspension is under weight load. He did everything good, maybe could have used loctite but thats a self preference.
Ive worked on quite a few cars many makes and models . my favorite brand is Benz . these cars are well thought out and built in my opinion . part prices aren't too bad but the labor costs at a shop will break your pockets . id rather get my hands dirty ,save some money and fix it myself .
@@jackdaniels8356 just did control arms and ball joints on a c230 kompressor. No ball joint press needed 🤷♂️🤷♂️ same with the radiator hoses easy snap in 🤷♂️ and the brake linings were easy too 🤷♂️
I had to slap a like on this because I'm in Australia and have used FCP to get parts for my E90 BMW. Great prices including shipping and quick postage. Great company.
That was the best and most informative video of the replacement of this component I have seen. Excellent commentary, mention of tools and torque settings. I have this very job to do and was looking at the critical point of the strut covering the nut, without any guidance and I have been delaying the idea for a month. The added benefit of the ABS sensors access is also good, maybe a bit of a clean will be good after all these years. Thank you for your time, effort and wonderful explanation, definitely a subscriber now that I have found this.
I love Mercedes cars , I've had 6 , all old and bought for pennies. Any help to do work more cost effectively is much appreciated. At the moment my A209 clk cabrio is the love of my life . It still looks and feels like the 50,000 pound car it was when new. It's now 15 years old and runs great. Thanks for this video
Bettcha can't beat my pristine 1994 E280 with 478,000 kays on the clock, unrestored in original condition & it's like new. That's 29 years old & I'm the second owner!
I’ve done this before with my mates tools he’s a mechanic and he was on another job telling me do this do that. Now he’s not about it seems much harder, you make it look a piece of cake
I was quoted $1,670 to replace all four control arms + alignment from the Chevy dealer where I bought my '06 c230. I passed on it. I see the same parts on ebay for $92 ea. Mine are wore out pretty bad from what I can feel. When I apply the brakes, feels like the front end is coming apart it shakes so bad. This looks easy enough but I can't do it myself. Best I can do is buy the parts then find a mechanic close by. Thanks, very good video.
Great video... I was just wondering why not put the bolt in on the other side where nothing would be obstructing it? I've noticed a lot of bolts that exist like this on my w207 and wonder if they do this so that if the nut comes off that you will still at least have a bolt in there.
powerfull tutorial video clear and understandable but i understand why labour cost its so high it needs patience and focus with correct tools to do the job thankyou
You can just drop the rear swaybar mounts And leave the sway bar attached to the end links.... Also??....You could’ve installed the new leading control arm to hold and stabilize the spindle in place before moving to the rear control arm disassembly.
Hey There! Is this similar to a 2013 GLK 350? I can't seem to find any videos for my specific make/model but would like to do the replacement myself. It's a 2013 RWD. Thank you!!
I would love to see this (Lower Control Arm Replacement) on a GL450 X164. Replacement along with Subframe bushing replacement. I have a 2007 GL450. Thanks. You can make a video on my truck if you like I'll drive over to Conn. I'm on Long Island and a Long Time Customer. .We could set up an appointment, just reach out to me. Thank you keep these video's coming.
that's great demonstration but I do question torquing the inner bolts without the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels I did get the object of the exercise thanks
Greetings, I am a follower of your videos, I want you to help me with something or if you can make a video of my problem, I have a 2004 Mercedes Benz Clk 500, the rack and pinion bushings are bad, I want to change them, they can be changed without download the complete rack and pinion, please help me
Do the lower control arms go bad on the w204 face-lift....iv had the upper ones done 7 days ago but the mechanic said lower ones are ok...car has 95000miles...do u think I shud have them done..
fantastic clear video. I am told the upper bushings are a 5 out of 10,and ocassionally a light cracking noise.Can the bushings be pressed in without buying and entire assembly and approximate cost?
This video was clear resolution and his voice is clear but I don’t get why so many people upload videos without telling torque specs I spent more time finding the torque specs than installing the parts. You should probably be held financially liable when you’re making out videos pretty much giving the wrong information or leaving out crucial information. Clk 500 torque specs: Control arm to frame 150Mn Control arm to knuckle 50nm +60angle Strut to knuckle bottom 110Nm Strut to knuckle top 100Nm + 90angle Sway bar bracket 40Mn Sway bar links M10x1.5 55Mn Sway bar links M12x1.5. 100 Mn Follow the torque specs engineers didn’t just make up numbers.
Those control arms are suppose to have 2 stage torque, stage 1 is tighten with torque wrench and Stage 2 is angle torque, especially the ones in that is attached to the sub-frame, failure to do so will result in excessive movement and premature wear on parts.
I have to do my lower control arms, my camber off in the front, lower control arm and ball joint the culprit I believe, but I’m not buying aftermarket parts… I have the E350 sport so it’s factory lowered in the front, I have to figure out how to get under the car under normal weight to tighten the bolts
After performing this repair, I now have ESP unavailable flashing on my dash when I start the car up but the ESP light doesn't stay on. I cleaned off the ABS sensors and reinstalled using some dielectric grease, could this be a possible cause for concern? My steering angle sensor may also be causing this, as I have yet to get the car realigned and the steering wheel is off center. Any thoughts?
Hmm. Mine needs adjustment on the camber for the right and caster on the left. The so called, adjustment bolts are supposed to work on a different set up where there are teeth that center the bolt. Mine looks like this, where there is only a round hole, so I don't know how it's going to adjust. While watching this, I noticed the new control arm is shirter than the old one. I had that issue on my new control arm kit for the rear. The one that has the adjuster for the toe was too short. So I had to reuse the originals. At least they were still good.
Hey! Best video for a step by step guide on these things, thank you! My question is how to properly tighten the ball joint nuts as the whole ball joint is twisting along with the nut and I can't fit anything to counterhold on the top of it (there's a torx hole I suppose but there's zero room for even a wrench to get in there. Thank you!
Hi, great video, ca you tell me please how to find or how it s part number of dust cover for bushes at control arms what you put in this video.thank you
Thank for the information..Great video!! May I ask what was the torque specification on both arms? For some reason the volume dimmed a little..thank you!
Torque specs are a little off in his video. At the arm to frame ( bushing) it’s 150Mn but after you do that it should have 120 degree angle added. Where the arms meat the knuckle it’s 50Mn with a 60 degree angle added. Stabilizer bar is 40Mn at the bracket going to frame. Stabilizer links or rods are 55Mn for 10x1.5 bolts and 100 Mn for 12x1.5 bolts. These stabler bolts don’t need degree added but most the other nuts or bolts do. The strut mounts to the knuckle with two bottom bolts and 1 top bolt. Bottom bolts are 110mn no angle. Top bolt is 100 Mn with a 90 degree angle added. Important to follow these steps and also torque them down while car is on the ground. Using rhino ramps would be better than nothing. If you can’t do that at least apply pressure to the suspension by placing a floor jack under the rotor.
Great video. I have a question also.. I went for a wheel alignment recently and the car is still slightly pulling left. I was told I needed to purchase adjustable lower control arm bushes to fix the issue. Firstly, not sure the original lower control bushes were adjustable and secondly why would you replace the whole lower control arms and not just the bushes. I’m new to suspension but comfortable working on my cars.
Why not put the arm bolt in the other side when you replace it so if you have to ever do it again you might not have to remove the sway bar and save time?
thanks very detailed video, and good camera.. it would be great if you could also include how or when you need to replace this, like is there a particular noice?
Hello Naser, it depends on road conditions in your area but it's usually 80k to 120k miles. I would look for signs of cracking in the bushings or play in the ball joints.
Hey Michael, that will all be dependent on your type of vehicle. Often times you may need to remove fender liners or splash shields to access hardware. Your best bet is to jack up the vehicle safely and inspect the area before starting your repairs.
What wonderful & clean job removing the bolt joints. Without removing the spindal, its very difficult to remove & replace the ball joints. Thanx for the informative video !!
At 10:15, you placed boots on both ends of the bushing. Is that standard on all control arms or just Rein? I just recently had my Control Arms replaced on a similar model and I'm still experiencing "clanking" when riding over bumps.
Thanks One other question Part number 181817 is for a c32amg? My car has 12mm end link holes not 10mm That part number from u guys will work for me? I have bought plenty of things from u guys, and I am from Oshawa Canada
Hi Gram. All the hardware comes in our control arm kit here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-control-arm-kit-lemforder-203330 But if you need just the bolts/hardware you can find it here: The long bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-bolt-m8x63mm-genuine-mercedes-0029903922 The nut for the long bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-flanged-nut-m10 The strut mounting hardware kit: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-suspension-strut-mount-2033200056
Hi guys, excellent videos good pace and very detailed I will be carrying out this job shortly as my car is 12 years old and these joints need replacing, I own a CLK 350 Sport W209 which I have owned now for 5 months, have you done any videos on the parktronic system as mine is not working completely and would like some advise and instructions on how to remove the front/ rear bumpers.
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
now I can see why it makes sense to only replace *bushings* and not complete arms unless BJs are shot. Also considering sway bar *links* and anchors *pads* since they need to get removed away
So how would I determine ride height? Would I measure distance of components before jacking up the car? Lowering the car would makes access very difficult, would it not?
Shop the products used in this video:
Mercedes W203 Front Control Arms: www.fcpeuro.com/Mercedes~Benz-parts/CLK550/Control-Arms-and-Bushings/?year=2008&m=20&e=2119
Easily one of the very best made instructional videos on you tube. Thanks for the patient clear description, and very clear, well lit video and also specifying the torque for the various nuts during re-assembly.
You're welcome Vic!
Do you ignore torque specs and angles on everyone’s car or just for your videos?
The inner bolts for both arms are supposed to be tightened with weight on the wheels. Otherwise you will have tightened them into position where they will twist once the car is on the ground. This will tear them prematurely.
Ben Cosgrave so you’re saying that the car has to be on the floor then torque?
@@OscarGonzalez-yw4pp At least Jack the wheel up so it's in its normal position when under load
very good observation, get the suspension loaded and torque the bolt. thank you
16:05 on the outter left side, what do you see? Thats a lift, suspension is under weight load. He did everything good, maybe could have used loctite but thats a self preference.
Newton/metro?
Ive worked on quite a few cars many makes and models . my favorite brand is Benz . these cars are well thought out and built in my opinion . part prices aren't too bad but the labor costs at a shop will break your pockets . id rather get my hands dirty ,save some money and fix it myself .
yes exactly where they get you is the labor cost, about 400$ in parts.. 400$ in labor .. 800$ job quoted for my 2007 c350 control arm replacemnt
~ a b s o l u t e l y ~ great engineering makes for a straightforward process...
@@jackdaniels8356 just did control arms and ball joints on a c230 kompressor. No ball joint press needed 🤷♂️🤷♂️ same with the radiator hoses easy snap in 🤷♂️ and the brake linings were easy too 🤷♂️
Don KiksBiscuits may I ask how did you change to ball joints without a press
That’s what I always do
I had to slap a like on this because I'm in Australia and have used FCP to get parts for my E90 BMW. Great prices including shipping and quick postage. Great company.
Thank you very much, Marcus!
That was the best and most informative video of the replacement of this component I have seen. Excellent commentary, mention of tools and torque settings. I have this very job to do and was looking at the critical point of the strut covering the nut, without any guidance and I have been delaying the idea for a month.
The added benefit of the ABS sensors access is also good, maybe a bit of a clean will be good after all these years.
Thank you for your time, effort and wonderful explanation, definitely a subscriber now that I have found this.
I love Mercedes cars , I've had 6 , all old and bought for pennies.
Any help to do work more cost effectively is much appreciated.
At the moment my A209 clk cabrio is the love of my life .
It still looks and feels like the 50,000 pound car it was when new. It's now 15 years old and runs great.
Thanks for this video
Bettcha can't beat my pristine 1994 E280 with 478,000 kays on the clock, unrestored in original condition & it's like new. That's 29 years old & I'm the second owner!
I’ve done this before with my mates tools he’s a mechanic and he was on another job telling me do this do that. Now he’s not about it seems much harder, you make it look a piece of cake
one of the best I have seen very clear and good camera work
Thanks, Trevor!
I was quoted $1,670 to replace all four control arms + alignment from the Chevy dealer where I bought my '06 c230. I passed on it. I see the same parts on ebay for $92 ea. Mine are wore out pretty bad from what I can feel. When I apply the brakes, feels like the front end is coming apart it shakes so bad. This looks easy enough but I can't do it myself. Best I can do is buy the parts then find a mechanic close by. Thanks, very good video.
Is an alignment required after replacing the front lower control arms ?
Followed the video step by step and changed my front suspension on my Mercedes
Excellent video
Would never have attempted it without it
5 star
Any issues along the way, or was this video right on point? I’m about to do this very soon after watching it million times lol.
I am most afraid of the part where the ABS-Sensor is unplugged. Could you put it back in easily?
How long did it take? I'm thinking of doing it
Thanks for your way of explaning and sharing !!
Hi Thank you for the is Video : Is this same for w204 C180K model
Great video... I was just wondering why not put the bolt in on the other side where nothing would be obstructing it? I've noticed a lot of bolts that exist like this on my w207 and wonder if they do this so that if the nut comes off that you will still at least have a bolt in there.
How can you install 2 inches shorter control arm?
powerfull tutorial video clear and understandable but i understand why labour cost its so high it needs patience and focus with correct tools to do the job thankyou
Is there a video regarding rear suspension for the W205?
You can just drop the rear swaybar mounts And leave the sway bar attached to the end links....
Also??....You could’ve installed the new leading control arm to hold and stabilize the spindle in place before moving to the rear control arm disassembly.
Hey There! Is this similar to a 2013 GLK 350? I can't seem to find any videos for my specific make/model but would like to do the replacement myself. It's a 2013 RWD. Thank you!!
What a perfect tutorial!!
I would love to see this (Lower Control Arm Replacement) on a GL450 X164. Replacement along with Subframe bushing replacement. I have a 2007 GL450. Thanks. You can make a video on my truck if you like I'll drive over to Conn. I'm on Long Island and a Long Time Customer. .We could set up an appointment, just reach out to me. Thank you keep these video's coming.
Are these kits still available at all?
that's great demonstration but I do question torquing the inner bolts without the full weight of the vehicle on the wheels I did get the object of the exercise thanks
FCP EURO do you have a video on how to replace w163 ml320 lower control arms please and thank you
Greetings, I am a follower of your videos, I want you to help me with something or if you can make a video of my problem, I have a 2004 Mercedes Benz Clk 500, the rack and pinion bushings are bad, I want to change them, they can be changed without download the complete rack and pinion, please help me
Do the lower control arms go bad on the w204 face-lift....iv had the upper ones done 7 days ago but the mechanic said lower ones are ok...car has 95000miles...do u think I shud have them done..
fantastic clear video. I am told the upper bushings are a 5 out of 10,and ocassionally a light cracking noise.Can the bushings be pressed in without buying and entire assembly and approximate cost?
Are those the only torque spec bolts that are needed? And do you need any thread locker on any of that?
@fcpeuro You guys might happen to have a video for replacing front control arms (upper /lower) for W164 models ?
beautiful step by step diagram. i will need to do this DIY on my own CLK 2009
You can do it!
Top marks to FCP Euro. Thanks for the instructions.
Cool man. Mine needs something up front. That and probably struts all around too. Thanks for the upload.
Very professional presentation. Excellent audio and video.
Glad you liked it!
Professional and easy to follow. Thanks so much.
You're welcome, Derek! Glad we can help!
-Jacob
Hi is this the same process for my 2010 Mercedes-Benz e550 ?
Hello
I notice MB uses some sort of anti corrosion paste on suspension fastener ends. do u know what that is called?
Man this it's a GIANTIC JOB without elevators, a true hard work, but not that difficult with the correct knowledge
My suspensiom failed on my 2020 E53Amg had only one year from mercades what can I do
Thanks for the video! It took me ages to find what momentum should I use to screw in the control arm at. Big Thanks!
Best instructional videos on you tube
This video was clear resolution and his voice is clear but I don’t get why so many people upload videos without telling torque specs I spent more time finding the torque specs than installing the parts. You should probably be held financially liable when you’re making out videos pretty much giving the wrong information or leaving out crucial information.
Clk 500 torque specs:
Control arm to frame 150Mn
Control arm to knuckle 50nm +60angle
Strut to knuckle bottom 110Nm
Strut to knuckle top 100Nm + 90angle
Sway bar bracket 40Mn
Sway bar links M10x1.5 55Mn
Sway bar links M12x1.5. 100 Mn
Follow the torque specs engineers didn’t just make up numbers.
Hey! can see you have greased your anti roll bar bushes (swaybar bracket), what type of grease have you used? Thanks!
Those control arms are suppose to have 2 stage torque, stage 1 is tighten with torque wrench and Stage 2 is angle torque, especially the ones in that is attached to the sub-frame, failure to do so will result in excessive movement and premature wear on parts.
zech007 I noticed at the 16:00 some kind of floor jack on the brake rotor
Can you explain what Stage 2 is angle torque is?
I have to do my lower control arms, my camber off in the front, lower control arm and ball joint the culprit I believe, but I’m not buying aftermarket parts… I have the E350 sport so it’s factory lowered in the front, I have to figure out how to get under the car under normal weight to tighten the bolts
After performing this repair, I now have ESP unavailable flashing on my dash when I start the car up but the ESP light doesn't stay on. I cleaned off the ABS sensors and reinstalled using some dielectric grease, could this be a possible cause for concern? My steering angle sensor may also be causing this, as I have yet to get the car realigned and the steering wheel is off center. Any thoughts?
how do you guys find sound?
Hmm. Mine needs adjustment on the camber for the right and caster on the left. The so called, adjustment bolts are supposed to work on a different set up where there are teeth that center the bolt. Mine looks like this, where there is only a round hole, so I don't know how it's going to adjust.
While watching this, I noticed the new control arm is shirter than the old one. I had that issue on my new control arm kit for the rear. The one that has the adjuster for the toe was too short. So I had to reuse the originals. At least they were still good.
Hey! Best video for a step by step guide on these things, thank you! My question is how to properly tighten the ball joint nuts as the whole ball joint is twisting along with the nut and I can't fit anything to counterhold on the top of it (there's a torx hole I suppose but there's zero room for even a wrench to get in there. Thank you!
good, so far no one talk about the control arms large bolts and why they have oposing slots along them, and how they should be positioned.???
Hi, great video, ca you tell me please how to find or how it s part number of dust cover for bushes at control arms what you put in this video.thank you
Here you go: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-control-arm-shim-2113330697
What size hammer you using to hit the ball joints of control arms remover to hit i am using hammer is not enough
I suppose this is what is causing the clunk noise when I hit a heavy bump. Thanks for the detailed instruction on this.
You're welcome!
GREAT video.
Good idea changing all the bushings & suspension links.
Thank for the information..Great video!! May I ask what was the torque specification on both arms? For some reason the volume dimmed a little..thank you!
Torque specs are a little off in his video. At the arm to frame ( bushing) it’s 150Mn but after you do that it should have 120 degree angle added. Where the arms meat the knuckle it’s 50Mn with a 60 degree angle added.
Stabilizer bar is 40Mn at the bracket going to frame. Stabilizer links or rods are 55Mn for 10x1.5 bolts and 100 Mn for 12x1.5 bolts. These stabler bolts don’t need degree added but most the other nuts or bolts do.
The strut mounts to the knuckle with two bottom bolts and 1 top bolt. Bottom bolts are 110mn no angle. Top bolt is 100 Mn with a 90 degree angle added. Important to follow these steps and also torque them down while car is on the ground. Using rhino ramps would be better than nothing. If you can’t do that at least apply pressure to the suspension by placing a floor jack under the rotor.
Every thing is good very nicely explained thanks lot very help full
I'm curious is this the same for a C230 Kompressor??
Great video. I have a question also.. I went for a wheel alignment recently and the car is still slightly pulling left. I was told I needed to purchase adjustable lower control arm bushes to fix the issue.
Firstly, not sure the original lower control bushes were adjustable and secondly why would you replace the whole lower control arms and not just the bushes. I’m new to suspension but comfortable working on my cars.
What you needed was a new strut
Why not put the arm bolt in the other side when you replace it so if you have to ever do it again you might not have to remove the sway bar and save time?
thanks very detailed video, and good camera.. it would be great if you could also include how or when you need to replace this, like is there a particular noice?
MJ J clicking, clanking, especially on slow speed sharp turns and on braking
is this valid for a 2012 E550 coupe? I know this is an old post but...crossing fingers.
great video. professional approach. but when should that control arm be replaced??
Hello Naser, it depends on road conditions in your area but it's usually 80k to 120k miles. I would look for signs of cracking in the bushings or play in the ball joints.
When the car kills you by excessive steering wheel wobbling/shaking when braking.lol
Man, you guys are the shit. I buy everything from you guys. Thanks for the videos and the OEM quality parts. Keep up the good work.
No Redline2010, YOU'RE the shit! Thanks for the kind words!
What milwaukee cordless tool did you use to remove the 8mm bolts from the splash shield?
Thank you for the tutorial. I am going to let all my MBZ friend's about your channel. You Rock.
Maybe you can help me i need to change the front control arms of a 2004 Mercedes Benz c240 wagon where can i find or buy the control arms that are OEM
Hey Capz, those can be found on FCPEuro.com!
So if I'm replacing the lower control arm I don't have to take off any other parts do I
Hey Michael, that will all be dependent on your type of vehicle. Often times you may need to remove fender liners or splash shields to access hardware. Your best bet is to jack up the vehicle safely and inspect the area before starting your repairs.
Very well done,thanks
What wonderful & clean job removing the bolt joints. Without removing the spindal, its very difficult to remove & replace the ball joints. Thanx for the informative video !!
At 10:15, you placed boots on both ends of the bushing. Is that standard on all control arms or just Rein? I just recently had my Control Arms replaced on a similar model and I'm still experiencing "clanking" when riding over bumps.
djetfire123 sway bar links
Isn't the wider bolt insert on your original arm to make minor camber adjustments? Why would rein remove this feature?
And where you will put the camber bolt????
Why did you use protectives?
Good video,
Do you not use loctite ?
And can I drill out the hole to 12mm from 10mm? And will the spring rates be strong enough for my c32amg which I do take to the track 3-4 times a year
Brilliant job
Thanks
One other question
Part number 181817 is for a c32amg?
My car has 12mm end link holes not 10mm
That part number from u guys will work for me?
I have bought plenty of things from u guys, and I am from Oshawa Canada
Hello Steve, I'm showing that part number as a direct fit for a C32 AMG.
Also do u have a video for upper control arms W221? thanks
What’s the silver control arm bolt size? Also where can I get one besides Mercedes dealer?
Hi Gram. All the hardware comes in our control arm kit here: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-control-arm-kit-lemforder-203330
But if you need just the bolts/hardware you can find it here:
The long bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-bolt-m8x63mm-genuine-mercedes-0029903922
The nut for the long bolt: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-flanged-nut-m10
The strut mounting hardware kit: www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-suspension-strut-mount-2033200056
Hi guys, excellent videos good pace and very detailed I will be carrying out this job shortly as my car is 12 years old and these joints need replacing, I own a CLK 350 Sport W209 which I have owned now for 5 months, have you done any videos on the parktronic system as mine is not working completely and would like some advise and instructions on how to remove the front/ rear bumpers.
Unfortunately we do not have bumper removal guides however there are many guides available on forums such as mbworld.org for your chassis.
Very well done video. Do you have a similar instruction for c240 4matic model which is all wheel drive?????
Thanks for the great video. And for the tip on am parts from crp/rein. Love my 2002 c240 and want it to continue to be a great ride.
Good work and extremely helpful sir. Is it the same if I load the suspension with a jack or does the wheels have to be on and the can on the ground before torquing the bolts ?
Thank you, Rod! Loading the suspension with a jack will work perfectly fine!
@@fcpeuro Thank you for your prompt response it is greatly appreciated
Anyone knows if this would be the same on w211?
What is the torque for all of those bolts. I know the bolts holding the caliper are suppose to be 80 ft-lbs. Should the others just be snug enough?
now I can see why it makes sense to only replace *bushings* and not complete arms unless BJs are shot.
Also considering sway bar *links* and anchors *pads* since they need to get removed away
Definitely would be a good, "while you're in there" thing to replace!
Just bought a kit and Swarbar links does the car have to be loaded
bushings will always care, balljoints wont because they have full articulation!
Did you completely take the sway bar off?
Very well explained and filmed.
Thanks, Ray! Glad you liked the video!
-Jacob
Excellent video. Thanks
Glad you like the video, Ray!
So how would I determine ride height? Would I measure distance of components before jacking up the car? Lowering the car would makes access very difficult, would it not?
After you finish , roll car on a set of portable ramps and torque
Bro thank you! Grate job very help full!
Awesome work!!! Thanks again!!!
Great informative video as i am about to replace these parts on my clk.
Thanks man, was a little intimidated.
Thank u sir for beautiful lesson ❤
awesome video bro. keep up the good work.
Do u need to put thread lock on the bolts?
The nuts should be self locking, but you can paint mark them if you want to make sure they dont move!
Where was the job done is this a FCP Euro shop or your own shop? You make it look easy and enjoyable!
This was done at our facility in Milford, CT.
Thx for the video in good detail and ur other tips!