Changing sprocket sizes is an important modification. Newer (Euro 5) Triumphs will flash an ECU light and error code if you make minor sprocket changes. The OEM gearing is 17T/37T and way too high! 5th gear at 4500 RPM is 154 km/h! The 6th gear at 4500 RPM is 171 km/h!
You say not to change too much, so I ordered a rear sprocket that’s 2teeth more, and a front sprocket with 1 less tooth, I was at a stock “15F 43R” now I’ll be at a “14F 45R” for more throttle response along with the stage 1 Dynojet kit I installed on my carbs! This is going to be fun! “It’s on a 97’ Suzuki RF900R”
I’ve just received my new chain and sprockets and can’t wait to lower the gearing (first time) on my dinky Suzuki gsxr125. Top speed isn’t worth a wank (displayed 87mph downhill with wind behind me) so an extra 7.7% acceleration is eagerly awaited. Also at 100mpg+ I can afford lose a little fuel economy. Looking forward to the continuing wheelie practice and pulling away that little bit faster. Wish I’d ordered a plated chain sealed chain tho instead of a raw unsealed one. Oh well, always next time. Now to buy an expensive press fit rivet tool, the costs never stop do they?!
I am lowering the gearing from oem 16 front, 41 rear to 15 front , 42 rear If I go 1 down on the front and 1 up on the rear is this a better combination rather than going 1 down on the front on a KTM Duke 790
3:41 I suspect it mite have something to do with more easy rideability at super slow speeds in bloody slow moving traffic. I am new to this and researching it as well Before I buy my 1st ktm
If you want to gear for more top speed, one tooth more on the front is ok, rarely two. Because the front sprocket should only deviate one tooth down or up from factory gearing, for best results in most cases with most motorcycle gear boxes. Most larger road motorcycles benefit from going down one tooth on the front, for a bit more punch. If you are on a smaller cc bike that revs too high at your cruising speed in top gear, then you can go up just one tooth on the front. Remember how sprockets will affect chain length, and it's better to take off a few links, cos adding is dumb. Have chai adjuster blocks all the way forward before working out length, as chains stretch and you have to adjust it out. Keep in mind chain length if you want to be able to swap sprockets for different applications. One tooth either way on the front, gives for least chain adjustment, and you can usually get away with not cutting the chain. Just think about it first, and always set chain tension when sitting on a bike, as it tightens when you sit on it, then further when you compress the rear shock over a bump.
I have a yezdi roadster with stock 13 in front and 45 in rear ( i might have wrong info) want to change it to 12 front and 48 or 52 rear will it increase my mileage as well as will have taller gear soo I have to shift less i trafic and better at highway cruising and will it be better for ladhak ride or Nepal ride.
So lemme try to explain it to you if you had a 15 tooth front and a 52 tooth back it would be around 3:1 ratio which means the front sprocket has to do 3 revolutions to get the back sprocket/tire to spin once and if you switched the back to a 64 it would go slower and 20 front would be faster and same with the front sprocket
I have a 2022 ninja Kawasaki 400, at low gears, it’s very jerky despite raving smoothly. Would going high on the front sprocket adding more teeth, and removing teeth form the back sprocket help with a smoother ride, since the rpms would be lower ??
Does changing sprocket on a motorcycle with a mechanical (I mean not computer reading) speedometer really alters the reading? Or this is only true on motorcycles with ECU?
You contradicted yourself , if a bigger rear raises gear ratio, which I know it does . You said adding one tooth to the front is the same as adding three teeth to the rear ? it's driving me crazy I've been trying to find a simple explanation all night on the web .
my bikes stcok ratio is 16/47 final drive ratio of 2.94 I drop 1 tooth in the front 15/47 Final drive ratio = 3.13 or I add 3 to the rear and do 16/50 Final drive ratio = 3.125 maybe you misheard him speak but yeah the final drive is pretty similar, from dropping 1 front or adding 3 rear
Changing sprocket sizes is an important modification. Newer (Euro 5) Triumphs will flash an ECU light and error code if you make minor sprocket changes. The OEM gearing is 17T/37T and way too high! 5th gear at 4500 RPM is 154 km/h! The 6th gear at 4500 RPM is 171 km/h!
You say not to change too much, so I ordered a rear sprocket that’s 2teeth more, and a front sprocket with 1 less tooth, I was at a stock “15F 43R” now I’ll be at a “14F 45R” for more throttle response along with the stage 1 Dynojet kit I installed on my carbs! This is going to be fun! “It’s on a 97’ Suzuki RF900R”
Do you observe any difference in performance?
I’ve just received my new chain and sprockets and can’t wait to lower the gearing (first time) on my dinky Suzuki gsxr125. Top speed isn’t worth a wank (displayed 87mph downhill with wind behind me) so an extra 7.7% acceleration is eagerly awaited. Also at 100mpg+ I can afford lose a little fuel economy.
Looking forward to the continuing wheelie practice and pulling away that little bit faster.
Wish I’d ordered a plated chain sealed chain tho instead of a raw unsealed one. Oh well, always next time. Now to buy an expensive press fit rivet tool, the costs never stop do they?!
I am lowering the gearing from oem 16 front, 41 rear to 15 front , 42 rear If I go 1 down on the front and 1 up on the rear is this a better combination rather than going 1 down on the front on a KTM Duke 790
3:41
I suspect it mite have something to do with more easy rideability at super slow speeds in bloody slow moving traffic.
I am new to this and researching it as well
Before I buy my 1st ktm
Sorry for your loss.
@@Audfile
Bought transalp 750
So fa so good
If you want to gear for more top speed, one tooth more on the front is ok, rarely two. Because the front sprocket should only deviate one tooth down or up from factory gearing, for best results in most cases with most motorcycle gear boxes. Most larger road motorcycles benefit from going down one tooth on the front, for a bit more punch. If you are on a smaller cc bike that revs too high at your cruising speed in top gear, then you can go up just one tooth on the front. Remember how sprockets will affect chain length, and it's better to take off a few links, cos adding is dumb. Have chai adjuster blocks all the way forward before working out length, as chains stretch and you have to adjust it out. Keep in mind chain length if you want to be able to swap sprockets for different applications. One tooth either way on the front, gives for least chain adjustment, and you can usually get away with not cutting the chain. Just think about it first, and always set chain tension when sitting on a bike, as it tightens when you sit on it, then further when you compress the rear shock over a bump.
I have a yezdi roadster with stock 13 in front and 45 in rear ( i might have wrong info) want to change it to 12 front and 48 or 52 rear will it increase my mileage as well as will have taller gear soo I have to shift less i trafic and better at highway cruising and will it be better for ladhak ride or Nepal ride.
So what is the difference in characteristic changing front vs rear. Does it spin up quicker vs has more bite in the tire?
So lemme try to explain it to you if you had a 15 tooth front and a 52 tooth back it would be around 3:1 ratio which means the front sprocket has to do 3 revolutions to get the back sprocket/tire to spin once and if you switched the back to a 64 it would go slower and 20 front would be faster and same with the front sprocket
And you shouldent change the front sprocket larger then 15 tooth or even lower
I have a 2022 ninja Kawasaki 400, at low gears, it’s very jerky despite raving smoothly. Would going high on the front sprocket adding more teeth, and removing teeth form the back sprocket help with a smoother ride, since the rpms would be lower ??
That is the idea yes I’m thinking of doing the same to mine
You need an ECU flash.
Sorry I meant, revving the throttle handle
i upgraded the rare tyre to 1 size higher i.e., stock was 160 now its 170 ... do i need to change the sprocket ?? with additional teeth
Does changing sprocket on a motorcycle with a mechanical (I mean not computer reading) speedometer really alters the reading? Or this is only true on motorcycles with ECU?
My Speedo is run from a front wheel.
So it will always only read from the rotation of the front wheel in relation to the ground surface.
You contradicted yourself , if a bigger rear raises gear ratio, which I know it does . You said adding one tooth to the front is the same as adding three teeth to the rear ? it's driving me crazy I've been trying to find a simple explanation all night on the web .
my bikes stcok ratio is 16/47 final drive ratio of 2.94
I drop 1 tooth in the front 15/47 Final drive ratio = 3.13
or I add 3 to the rear and do 16/50 Final drive ratio = 3.125
maybe you misheard him speak but yeah the final drive is pretty similar, from dropping 1 front or adding 3 rear