Some other electrical videos you may be interested in watching. 🔌 Wire stripper tips - th-cam.com/video/sLkZWObclF0/w-d-xo.html 🔌 Electrical Pigtails - th-cam.com/video/K3RIjUnrNTQ/w-d-xo.html 🔌 Receptacle Orientation - th-cam.com/video/3AAKEeDcZ34/w-d-xo.html
I'm a retired 55 yrs. Master Electrician and am constantly amazed at the shade tree tradesmen giving poor and dangerous advice on TH-cam. Your site is a very pleasant relief using facts and actual code references to point out the correct way to do electrical work.
I too have been in the electrical industry (mostly large industrial work) my whole life either as an electrician or electrical engineer. You have me on years though. I just turned 60 and spent 40 years in the trade.
I hate old crusty electricians that think they know everything because it was written in a document designed to keep people out of the market. Unions are the worst.
Same here, between IBEW journeyman electrician, licensed master electrician and an electrical inspector total of 58 years, nothing infuriates me more than a home inspector or a realtor tell me that I'm over qualified or an weekend electrician that never once attended a Code class and bought a NEC book just to say the has one.
Thank you. Im certainly not perfect but I try to make sure to spread factual knowledge rather than opinion. Although electricians all seem to be opinionated. lol. Myself included.
Thank you!! So glad to see someone debunk this misinformation. Too many youtubers ot checking their facts before spreading it all over fhe world !! Subscribed.
If you think TH-camrs are bad, think of all the electricians that have been misled by a poorly informed inspector who "interpreted" the code the wrong way....
I used to be a jack of all trades. I settled into one trade and have subscribed to a few true tradesmen's channels that are run by knowledgeable and skilled in the trades that I used to think I was capable in. I've learned a lot since then and my biggest take away has been "just because I learned to do something, does not equate to doing it correctly. " Thanks for taking your time to help us Jacks to learn.
@@BackyardMainetalking about the Wago lever nuts in a wet location, can they be used by themselves when wiring a receptacle in a bathroom? Or do you need to place them in a Wago Gel Box to meet code? Thank you for any advice you can give me.
33 year general and electrical contractor here. Totally agree with your points. Although not required, all my projects have 12 ga wire for outlets. Also I always have separate circuits for lighting and receptacles. It never seemed smart to have the lights go out if an outlet tripped a breaker. An observation, as I am now in my 70's very few inspectors even try to challenge my expertise. Most inspections last no more than 5 minutes.
I'm similar to you. Most inspections are me giving him info he needs for the certificate and then talking about retirement. Well, he's talking, I'm just dreaming. I too used nothing but 12 for outlets most my career, without question. That was until the great reset of a few years ago and prices skyrocketed. Now I'll give them the option. In today's world I think it's foolish but if they want the lowest price then it's 14 wire everywhere but the exceptions. And BTW, did he miss a coup locations where 12 is required? I didn't hear dining rooms or garage. He did have a 2023 book in the picture but surely they didn't eliminate those, did they?
@@snakeinthegrass7443 I did say Garages but not dining rooms. They are not required in dining rooms and thats not a change. Ive been in the electrical industry to 4 decades and I don't think the code ever required 20A circuits there. I do have the 2023 code and I took the 15 hour update as well.
@@BackyardMaine I apologize about the garage, geez I guess I missed it. Thanks for your credentials but it's unnecessary bc I know a pro when I see one. I've been around for almost 40 years myself. I wasn't questioning your knowledge, I simply did not hear you say those locations and was asking the other poster if you said them or if code changed. (not worded very well) Anyway, I never looked it up before bc I was always told by coworkers and inspectors alike that dining rooms require 12 wire. Since my book is in the truck and it's nasty outside, I tried my luck on the internet and it appears this is one of those grey area that gets interpreted differently. I was searching some forums and such and it seems to come down to 210.52 (1) which refers to the small appliance circuits serving all receptacles covered by 210.52 (A) Pantry, Dining Room, etc. By default, then, they would also be on a 20 amp circuit. I have never seen anyone or certainly haven't done it myself, and that's pulling ANYTHING off the countertop outlets except other countertop and island receptacles. That's crazy, imo. So in short from what I've found in a few minutes of searching, that section says the small appliance circuit "must serve" those other outlets in those locations. IMO that means a 20 amp circuit - and from my understanding it's bc of things like buffet tables with hot plates and other meal-related appliances. I do know that even inspectors disagree on codes from time to time. I've been frustrated several times over conflicting interpretations. So if your people pass 14 wire in the dining rooms, great. Maybe it's a geographical thing as well. I'm in upstate NY, near Albany, so maybe they're a little stricter, Idk. I just do what they tell me. So no hard feelings. I sensed you were a little upset with my post and I'm sorry if it came across as offending. Peace and blessings
That is how I, a DIYer, do it. Just makes sense. I began rewiring parts of our 85 year old house after my mother had the fuse box replaced with a breaker panel (by a professional, of course) and breakers started tripping. Left all the overhead light fixtures and most receptacles on one circuit. Was a rats nest to untangle. We're all conduit, so that did make some things easier.
So, I'm new to this. Does this ever happen - an inspecting agent requires something even though it is NOT required by the NEC code. Has that happened to anyone? How do you handle that?
I hear it happens but I have only had it happen to me once when I was working a job in Vermont. I appealed to the state inspector and he said I was good to go. The local inspector was not happy though. It would have cost me $1000s to fix so I pushed back.
The local authority having jurisdiction is the final say provided he is following local ordinance. If he tells you something that is beyond what local ordinance requires you will have to go to the local board and argue your case, where if you cite local ordinance required you will win. Local ordinance can be more stringent than national code. It cannot be less than national code.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 not true. a state is not required to adopt the NEC in its entirety. local codes can provide exceptions to NEC. case in point, in my state, it is acceptable to install a non GFCI protected single receptacle behind a refrigerator, washing machine, or other fixed appliance, if it is located in such a way that the appliance prevents ready access, and it is labeled as being not GFCI protected.
I worked as a Sr. Electrical Design Engineer for a very large electrical contractor. Sometimes over 1000 electricians. I got calls often from electricians on jobs stating that they just failed an inspection. After drilling down to make sure what was done, and what the inspector said, there are a few methods to resolve it. First, call the inspector and request a written statement of the violation. Call the inspector and read the appropriate section of the adopted code and give your understanding of that section and “Why”. Get out your code book when told of the violation, and look it up with the inspector. If all else fails and there is a Chief Inspector, call them and discuss the install, the inspectors statement, the code section, and read your point to them. There are numerous situations that could be told, but would take too long. If you do your homework, and you are absolutely correct and have proof, you will win every time. Just “Make Sure” you are correct first!
Had a City plans reviewer fail my plans on an industrial project. Said all the CB sizes exceed the wire ampacity, duh, they were motor circuits, had to educate him on the Code for motor circuits.
@@bladeoflucatiel we use those as stand alone breakers in panel boxes we build. if it's a premade panel 120/240v 3 phase it uses standard breakers which don't have different curves .
That’s severely annoying. Have you also had the pleasure of dealing with HVAC contractors that don’t understand circuit sizing in relation to condensing units? I’m constantly asking for minimum circuit amps for units and they’ll just spit out the max breaker size. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to explain that that wasn’t the question and why that’s the case
@@r.k.werner2688 "Take a picture of all the nameplate rating stuff and send it to me, thankyouverymuch, and I'll not have to call you again." I'm surprised you didn't get quoted locked rotor amps.
Good, clear video. The NEC is a minimum standard, it is not a design guide. As consulting design engineer, I've come across some inspectors who are retired contractors who have been doing things wrong for years.
I've seen the exact opposite of what you described electrical engineers that think they know it all when it comes to the NEC 40 years of hands on in the trade is more viable than four years of book learning
@@kd9856 One reason I retired early was a school project where none of the electricians read or spoke English. So none of the drawing notes were followed and the work met "NEC minimums" but not the specific State requirements for educational facilities shown on the design drawings.
Interesting, how I learned all of this back in the 80s, and it still hasn’t changed. I still have all of the rules from back then in my head. I still do a lot of electrical, and I always go toward the side of safety for ANY project. I’ve had a lot of arguments over the years, and always win with the Safety First argument. When in doubt, over engineer it! Works in plumbing and carpentry, too!
I have always have a problem with the power of building inspectors, they need to have their wings clipped. Just look at Lehtos law, you do all these things to make one inspector happy and the next one tells you none of it had to be done happens all the time. I had one inspector tell me on an out side door you can replace a window that keeps getting broken or you can put in a solid door , but you cannot put a wood panel in a door that did not come with one HE DROPPED IT WHEN I OFFERED TO TAKE HIM TO COURT AND MEANT IT !! ALL MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT !!!
@@bobpawtucket1336 Well you probably better figure out sooner than later ... if you engage in pee'ing contests with them . For the most part they will be happy to oblige you and show you where the bear shiots in the woods . Because their job is to clip your wings if you are not flying straight . Other than a few odd cases , I can't say I have ever had much problems with inspectors. And most in my experience are actually helpful . Which is how I firstly learned most of the electrical requirements starting out in the jack of all trades handyman line of work I've been in for 40ish years . Which I have installed nearly 2 dozen meter main service entrance setups and lots of branch work. Permits taken out by the home owner or somebodies license they knew or general contractor I was working for at the time . Less is more when dealing with inspectors , and usually it is always better to be there if they fail something rather than having to discern it from their paperwork. Try and view them as helpful rather than adversarial would be the best advice I can tell you ;)
@@bobpawtucket1336 I'd say engaging in power struggles with an inspector is never a good idea , unless you enjoy those kind of contests and all the friction that come with them . Try the less is more approach maybe ;)
This would be very helpful, if I were wiring my house. Unfortunately, I'm wiring my boat, prepping it as a liveaboard. ABYC requirements are very different than NEC. For one thing, you never use solid wire on a boat. Sometimes the toughest part of the job is knowing which standard applies.
I've never done anything with electrical but watched anyway just because I'm curious. I appreciate the concise video and not just ramble on making it 15 minutes long like many other channels do. You get right to the info. Very helpful. 💛
One additional comment about pigtails is regarding the myth even among electricians that they make troubleshooting easier. For the life of me I can’t understand that at least for side wired devices. First of all the current does not pass through the device only the bus bar on the side. That bus bar is not the part of the device that fails. Second of all screws will likely be more secure than wire nuts particularly when installed by DIYers. Sure screws can loosen but so can an improperly installed wire nut. Then of course pigtails are just more stuff to jam in the box which in itself can cause then to loosen. Sometimes you need them but if you don’t it seems to me that they are not worth the extra effort and provide no benefit.
The issues I see with the NEC is that old work never has to be upgraded. Houses built 50 or 60 years ago were wired with maybe 10 or 12 circuits and still function today. Even though we are using more electrical items today we are drawing less current due to modern electronics. If I turned everything in my house on I might draw 50 to 60 amps on a 200 amp service.
I have always have a problem with the power of building inspectors, they need to have their wings clipped. Just look at Lehtos law, you do all these things to make one inspector happy and the next one tells you none of it had to be done! Happens all the time. I had one inspector tell me on an out side door you can replace a window that keeps getting broken, or you can put in a solid door , but you cannot put a wood panel in a door that did not come with one HE DROPPED IT WHEN I OFFERED TO TAKE HIM TO COURT AND MEANT IT !! ALL MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT !!! THEY NEED TO GO BY THE STATUTE AND NOTHING BUT THE STATUTE!!!
I have seen that and worse. I actually rewired a home after a fire that has started where someone connected zip cord to a 20A circuit using wire nuts and tape but no box. The zip cord fed an outlet for an electric heater on the bedroom. Luckily nobody was hurt.
Look closely there appears to be a code violation over his shoulder. EMT run between termination points shall be securely fastened within (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other tubing termination.
The house I live in has the upstairs bathroom light and plug, kitchen light, range hood fan, downstairs bathroom light and outlet, kitchen light, range hood fan, patio light, dining room outlet, and three living room outlets all on one 15 amp breaker. The landlord doesn't care that it often trips. I've tried to tell him that just knowing the circuit is overloaded means his fire insurance is voided. He just laughed. I have three months left on my one year lease and am looking for a place to move to.
Good idea to move. Regrettably, his insurance will likely not be voided, however. Many, many fires are caused by human error, stupidity, or cheapness, and are still likely valid claims. The insurer would have to know that the circuit was overloaded, and then find out that the landlord knew it well ahead of time. These are both hard to determine after a fire. Every year at Christmas there are dozens of house fires caused by "octopus" outlet multipliers for light strings on skimpy extension cords. Most people know or could know that this is hazardous, but the resulting fire is likely a covered claim.
Even if it is overloaded, that's what the overcurrent protection device is for - so it can't start a fire. I mean after all, you can at any time overload any outlet in your house, and that doesn't magically void your insurance.
Codes change and what was allowed yesterday may not be tomorrow. If your circuit is overloaded then the breaker will trip, no need move and make a scene.
If it was grandfathered in that way and was allowable at one time, you may be out of luck. Lots of older houses from the 40's and 50's only had four or six circuits total. If it was a modern hack job done without a permit though, you may be able to withhold paying rent until it is fixed. You will have to do your own research to find out what your rights are here.
The way I understand it regarding pigtails at a receptacle is the receptacle would have to be listed as a splicing device. It has nothing to do with the NEC. You would have to contact the manufacturer of the receptacle to find out if their device was listed for splicing.
You kind of right which is why the statement about pigtails being required is false. Also all UL listed 120v receptacles sold in the US are listed for pass through. As a matter of fact 15A receptacles have a 20A pass through current rating.
I hang out at an electrical contractor's forum. Every once in a while, a newbie will come on seriously asking about ground up vs ground down. This immediately triggers a food fight in the comment section that makes the Civil War look, well, civil. All in good fun, of course.
Thank you, as a class 1 and 2 licenses holder in GA. for 25 years I too become frustrated by some peoples "Shared personal interpretation " of the N.E.C. it often makes me question the overall effectiveness of the reading skills taught in our public school system and our community colleges. :-) L8R G8R
Some are just good ideas, especially the service loop, if your DYI, and you are the only inspector that matters, keep the extra wire, might come in handy later. 12 gauge on a 15 amp circuit is overkill, but allows for you to swap the breaker and the fixtures without running new wire. Both costs a little more, but its not like your wiring a full house.
The code book is a lot more than a minimum standard.. I hear that a lot in the comments and it's not accurate. I have a video on pigtails and when I use them but they aren't required because they aren't always necessary.
I recommend DIYers purchase the NEC Handbook. It has the complete NEC in one color of print and explanations, examples in a different color. Also includes pictures and drawings. Therefore is about twice as thick as the NEC. Some of the NEC is confusing and having something written just a little different helps. Also a second source of information is helpful when dealing with someone that does not understand. I purchase the handbook every other cycle.
Yeah, but unfortunately spending $280 for a huge printed book, just to replace an outlet is not really a reasonable ask for most DIYers. It actually rather pisses me off that these are codes that are fundamental to doing work safely and in some cases could actually make the difference between a safe environment and a deadly hazard that could burn down a house and/or kill a family member, yet they're stuck behind several-hundred-dollar paywalls (and even then only provided in hard-to-use printed forms with no search ability, etc), pretty much guaranteeing that lots of the people who really _should_ be reading them will just not be able to, or won't want to. There really should be a better and cheaper way for non-professionals to have access to this really important information, IMHO.
Personally when it comes to pig tailing outlets, I think the method is just better practice as the advantage it provides is if the outlet fails in the future it won’t kill everything else down stream
Thank you for the videos and the correct information. There is a lot of false info out there and most won’t take the time like you have. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
Very nicely presented John. I only have one pet peeve that wasn't mentioned. The use of the word "Illegal" to point out a code violation. That would mean I could be charged with a crime and receive a fine or jail time! AHHHH!! " Non-compliant" would be proper and even then everything is "subject to the interpretation of the authority having jurisdiction" Meaning, You do it the way the AHJ wants it regardless of what the code says.
What's the logic behind securing the cable within 10" of the box with a maximum of 18" of cable? From a homeowner perspective, all it does is make otherwise simple repairs difficult, never having enough wire to pull out if they're cut short, or making it next to impossible to get the box out of the wall. In the Low Voltage and Communications side, leaving a service loop or "love loop" is the norm (or at least it was ~20 years ago when I was doing it).
One thing that I feels like it should be a requirement is that inspectors tell you exactly what part of the code this or that violate. But "this is against code" and you have no way to know why beside looking through the full code plus state plus city amandements, and whatever other special cases that may occur, whouln't be the responsability of the electrician, but the inspector that claim it violate it.
Los Angeles county, which includes the city, does or used to have a UL or other recognized safety agency (ETL) on any permanently installed appliances. Plug connected or not, like a dishwasher for example. If the device is unlisted the city actually has it's own test lab for a cost of course! (Just another infamous California government money grab). This was often a serious issue in technical and data centers where much of that specialized equipment bolted into racks (then considered a permanent appliance) was not listed due to the cost and requirement to provide sample products which will be destroyed by testing. UL finally stepped in early 1993 and offered a new certification level for commercial and industrial equipment. The inspection was just for basic electrical safety and was not destructive. However the UL sticker had to say the equipment was only to be installed in a commercial environment. I am an EE who designs some of that specialized equipment and I got burned with this new certification. I used to take the line cord ground or ground terminal on a power connector and bond it to the chassis with the first convenient screw. No Good! The power cord ground must be bonded to the chassis with a dedicated fastener. You can't use a screw that is serving another purpose. Fortunately that was easily fixed on very small production products.
You can find a code restriction against a cord with dual male ends, i.e. plugs on both ends. I must say I’ve never heard of any of these misconceptions; though that may be because I’m an electrician and learned through the code. I’ll ad that some devices may be bared by municipal ordinance even if allowed under NFPA 70, NEC; for example all of the devices we hardwire must be UL listed.
I’m my part of the country ( Aspen) outlets move frequently, so we implement what is called an Aspen loop, although it is not required by code, I can’t tell how many times it has come in handy to have that extra wire there!
My current home has 20A outlets in the kitchen, laundry, and bathrooms. My last house had them on 15A circuits until I added 20A to the kitchen. I enjoy being able to run a toaster oven and a microwave at the same time, and have the refrigerator kick on too, without a breaker tripping.
My poor kitchen has separate circuits for the fridge, garbage disposal, dishwasher, and the lights, but only one circuit for the counter-top outlets. We can't run the toaster-oven and microwave at the same time, unfortunately. Or the induction kettle plus one either, for that matter 😞
@@junkerzn7312 I hope your bedrooms and living room don't share those circuits. When I would trip the kitchen breaker, my TV and the computer in the spare room would have no power.
@@patmcbride9853 Thankfully all the rooms mostly have their own circuits, but there are definitely a few really odd circuits in the house One of the oddest circuits is a single outlet in one of the bedrooms that is on the bathroom's GFCI circuit (bathroom on the other side of the wall from the outlet). The other outlets in the bedroom are on their own circuit. I kept tripping the bathroom GFCI with a particular surgy piece of equipment in the room. Finally got fed-up enough to go into the bathroom and rewire the GFCI plug. So now the room plug is on the same circuit, but not on the GFCI. The bathroom plugs are still on the GFCI of course. -Matt
Another thing to be aware of is that not every state accepts the most recent version of the NEC into law when it comes out. The service loops are legal in this version but aren't in older versions and might not be in the next version.
@@BackyardMaine actually, it is very new code wise. It used to be required to be a 12" length of cable to the box. How we used to have to get these service loops is between staples with the one closest to the box being tight enough that it supports the cable but loose enough that you could slide it through the staple.
@@BackyardMaine The "within 12" I remember from older code cycles, but 18" max cable length was first included in the 2020 NEC. My 2020 book is highlighted as a change from the previous code. I think the length between the box and last support was previously undefined. I don't have an older version to look back at though. Good video.
@@michaelduy9055 Hmm, you may be right. My memory isn't what it used to be. I have a 2017 code out in the shop. I'll check it out and get back to you. Thanks.
@@ianbelletti6241 You're probably right. I have an older (2017) code book in the shop. I'll have to check. My memory isn't what it used to be. lol Thanks
Many on here have commented that they "ask the inspector what he want's" I don't agree. The way to get along with inspectors is to show them you are knowledgeable in the code. That way they respect you. If you ask them how to do the job.....that's not their job and it irritates most inspectors. They expect you to know the code. Yes, there are some gray areas in the code and some things that are open to interpretation. I have run into all kinds of inspectors and in most cases, they are pretty good guys........but there is always the exception. When I have disagreed with an inspector and feel I am definitely right I will stand up to them. In two instances I have herd the old "not in my town" as if they own the town and told them "Ok let's take it to the State Board in Boston. In both cases they backed down. Yeah, you don't want to irritate the inspector if you work in that town a lot but asking them what they want is not the way to go.
Lol, I caught flack in one of my videos for saying the receptacle is upside down. Working in a hospital as an electrician for 45yrs I was used to putting them ground up as metal cover plates are used and when a plate screw came loose and fell out the metal plate would hang on the ground instead of the hot/neutral prongs. Seen it happen many times even though all receptacles are checked as per code periodically! Never hurts to go the extra mile when safety is a concern.
I would certainly have commented on it. I've never seen outlets upside down and was quite surprised it's not against code. But I think we should recognize that it *is* against custom. There should be a very very good reason to do it.
Well, to keep someone " on the job " at the nec, we must change up some things every so often in " new code laws " . Ahh, back in the days they didn't even run grounds and allowed it.
Did a lot of wiring and problem that sometimes arises with making pigtails they add to the box volume and often create a violation for not having a large enough box. Have used spec grade receptacles and when the customer ordered a last minute add on had to run a third 12/2 NM to an existing wall case then use approved spec grade receptacles that each screw can accept two wires under the pressure plate ( one on each side ) and only use a wire nut for the ground wires.Will use the green wire nut with a pass thru hole to save a wire that could make you add to cubic inch space needed .
Thanks, I was one of the folks who believed the pigtale lie. I hadn't taken the time to look it up, but I can certainly see where folks would make that mistake since multi-wire circuits are not well understood.
I'm going to make a video about multi-wire branch circuits because you're correct that many people don't really understand them or all the requirements for using them.
Required or not, I still find it a bad idea to run all your current through that dinky little tab on the side of the receptacle. I was advised against doing that by an instructor and have removed at least a couple receptacles that were hooked up like that and showed heat damage. One to the point of failure.
@@Wrencher_86 if you are seeing the tabs get that hot, something else is wrong. Likely, the circuit has been significantly overloaded. (space heaters, coffee pots, microwaves, and hairdryers are common culprits). I would ask if they have been resetting the breaker a lot. It could also be a manufacturing defect; many builders opt for the cheapest junk. I would also be skeptical of the overcurrent device. The tabs should handle 20 amps continuously, even on 15-amp devices. (mind that you can't legally pull the total rating for over 3 hours without derating.) Anyone who buys the cheapest receptacles at the big box store is rolling the dice.
I have listened to the first code several times. I understand the single circuit but can not get what you are saying about the multi circuit part. Are you saying the common ground can or can not be pigtailed? Why would you have a multi circuit to a recipitical?
If I look at a 2 prong outlet, the neutral should be on the right. Extending that to a grounded outlet says the ground should be up. Just doesn't look like a face.
Nec is great its logical , but go to theae towns around the major city and stupidity that comes with some of tuose codes are just like what. How does that make sense, kind of stuff even after the inspector ezplai s to you why you had to donit like thisnin this town that is 5 min from the town next door that uses standard code for the area, not some crap couppe guys though of in back to make it seem like they are doing work
I was under the impression that people have started running all 12ga 20a circuits everywhere to avoid putting a 15a circuit somewhere they shouldn't. And aren't people starting to do that for dual AFI/GFI breakers too? As easier to pass inspection, avoid mistakes, etc? Customer pays for it anyway, in their eyes.
That could make the installation considerably more expensive and we should always try to do the best for our customers. I don't think we should make decisions based on our lack of knowledge of the code. New installations require AFCI protection pretty much everywhere with a few exceptions like outdoors. GFCIs are certainly required everywhere and I have found them to be problematic on some circuits.
Actually it's an Informational Note that states: Listed baseboard heaters include instructions that may not permit their installation below receptacle outlets. This applies to some but not all electric baseboard heaters. My baseboard heaters and most of them in Maine are hydronic or (hot water) baseboards and they do not have instructions restricting them from being installed under a receptacle because they don't get very hot.
Journeyman since 1983. Electrical Contractor in CA since 1988. I join you in being appalled and concerned about all the self-proclaimed electrical experts on YT. Thanks for the video.
My personal favorite is people that call up their utility company because they measured their outlets and it was 119 volts ....and they want it to be 115. And then I try to explain to them that "115 volts" just means an appliance can run on "50hz 110V" or "60hz 120V" and that the outlet is required to have an average voltage between 117 and 123 volts, so we aren't even allowed to set it to 115 *Edit Before people hop in It's a minimum of 114 for short periods of time (not the average) and 108 during brownouts.
Don’t disagree with anything you said. On the topic of “approved,” you should have focused on the NEC definition. It’s all up to the AHJ whether it’s approved or not and equipment without a listing mark could still be approved, although it’s unlikely.
I did put up a note that said “Approved- acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction. It was easy to miss. I get the comment on listed devices and equipment all the time.
Claim #1: I strongly prefer pigtails so the whole load does not pass through every receptacle. Also, I have replaced MANY toasted "push-ins" and should not be used!
So just if you install 20 amp receptacles, you should use 12 ga wire. And 15 amp receptacles use 14 gauge wire. Since it is labeled on the package from the manufacturer. It could be a violation too install 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp receptacles ???
You can use larger wire like 12AWG on 15A receptacles as well but of course you will have to use the side wiring connection which I recommend anyway. The back stab connections are only listed for 14AWG solid copper wire. Ive been an electrician for decades and I as well as most other pros use 12AWG on 20A circuits and 14AWG on 15A circuits.
Lol About 10 years ago an electrician friend of mine offered to hlep me with getting supplies to wire my house. Unbeknownst to me he had finished doing a salvage job where he had acquired a few thousand feet of 10-3 BX Well my house's wiring is now bullet proof 😂😂 The inspector took a look at the box , a look at the cable, and a look at me shook his head, shrugged his shoulders signs off and left without saying a word
Nice video. Now do a video on the parts of the code that are unnecessary boiler plate that can be ignored without any compromise in safety or reliability. (I'm an electrical engineer, and I have met and worked with some of the IEEE guys who write the code, and I can tell you straight up that most of those guys have never touched a wire in their life. They are in their 60s and their useful life as engineers is over so they attend IEEE meetings and make up issues to "solve". )
I know what you mean. I was an electrician for over 20 years before moving into electrical engineering. There were some engineers that I knew that had no concept of the practical application of what they learned is school.
I understand the point that you are making but maybe you should rethink the way you are presenting it after acknowledging that the NEC and the Fire Code are 'written in blood '(as is said) and should be respected and followed. Just as unforseen conditions/ possibilities lead to tragedy and were afterwards backward engineered into Codes so we must humbly honor the Code admitting that we can't possibly know the genesis of every hard learned lesson built in to these codes. Yes, sometimes we see what looks like ill-advised new code or (worse) Manufacturer- influenced code but many times corrections are made in the next cycle. Despite misgivings I would definitely agree with on some things in the code, I think it wise to promote the NEC to other tradesman as a duty to abide by rather than anything less.
Wow, if I had moved any faster I would have broken the sound barrier by moving so fast to hit the like button!!!! Because number one was the biggest argument I had with another electrician I was working around on a job site a while back!!! Thank you for this video!!! 👍🤜
You mean it's required in writing and you've personally read the local code amendment, or someone told you it's required? Almost everyone I've heard proclaim that pigtailing is required end up being proven wrong.
That's true. We cannot leave much of a loop. We can however support the cable closer than 8 inches and have some slack if needed. Example: you could gain 4" of slack if your staple was at 4 rather than 8 inches.
Today is the first day I have ever seen your channel and I think I've already watched 5 of them. Really like the way you talk about codes and etc. 100 thumbs up 👍
A service loop is great if you can get to the point of security by staples behind the finished wall without damaging the wall! All circuits should be secured at least 6”from outlet boxes.
Good point but I did mean to say adopted. When the code adds a new standard they say they "adopted that standard" which in effect is taking it in as a requirement and it being used by electricians and installers.
The only reason a dislike the ground up orientation is that the vast majority of 90° plugs are ground down. Not saying that’s a good reason, just saying that’s why I do ground down. I also don’t find myself handling thin metal objects directly against a wall. 😐
The choice of 12 AWG or heavier wiring for outlets depends on specific use cases. Some years ago my friend acquired a window air conditioner that was plugged into a bedroom outlet at the opposite end of the house from the electrical panel, a Manhattan distance of well over 50 ft. The builder had cut costs and had wired most of the outlets in the residence with 14 AWG wire. The voltage drop was so severe that the air conditioner compressor would _barely_ start when cold, but would stall on a hot restart. The solution was to run a 12 AWG Romex cable from the breaker panel through the crawlspace to the rear of the house and tie it into the outlet circuit, effectively supplying it with a 10 AWG run, which practically eliminated the voltage sag from the air conditioner, hair dryers, clothes irons, etc.
Sounds like it was a considerable distance from the panel. Also the connection method used plays a role as well. I run a window unit on a 15A breaker with 14 gauge wire about 50 feet from the panel with no issues at all.
Though not against code, I have seen few of these actually specd out on the blue prints ( all outlets 20 amps; 14 Guage wire only used on lighting; and yes I've seen it specd out to have grounds facing up, lol)
Fun fact, in 90.2(A) (2023) the NEC states it's not intended as a guide or manual for untrained persons. If you're an untrained DIYer the NEC explicitly states it's not applicable to you. 🙂
It’s not a guide or a manual for anyone really. It’s a standard that we use along with our training to insure safe installations. Saying it doesn’t apply to DIYer means it doesn’t apply to apprentices either.
@@BackyardMaine - I'm being facetious. I just like to point that out whenever an electrician tells me something I've done "GoEs aGaInS ThE NeC". "Whelp, I'm not a trained electrician so the NEC isn't applicable to me. Says so right here..." Most of the time these are the electricians (real or otherwise) that think the NEC is *THE LAW*.
Our home was built in '95 and the builder ran ONE 15-amp, 14 gauge circuit to feed the outlets in all 3 bathrooms, the front outside outlet, the backyard outside outlet, AND the garage. I can't believe they ever got away with this...
when the house was built, they should have had an open walls inspection of wiring and plumbing to see what is run where unless that area has no inspections while building.@@WhiteG60
@@WhiteG60 It would depend on the inspector. Some are really good and others not so much. There are two electrical inspections. One after rough in but before the walls are closed and a finish inspection when everything is complete. I would assume if the electrician spread out his circuits like that you wouldn't have very many drops at the panel. A garage circuit needs to be a 20A dedicated circuit and a bathroom needs a 20A circuit at the sink. This like this should be easy for them to detect at rough inspection.
All your points are good, but what some people do not understand is the NEC is produced by the National Fire Protection Association which is a private for profit international origination that has nothing more to do with the government the National Rifle Association ! And you do not see states adopting NRA rules as their laws! Personally some NFPA rules are strictly for profit of their partner and supporting companies. I DO NOT LIKE WHEN STATES ADOPT THEIR RULES AS LAW. I DO NOT GET TO VOTE FOR THEM, THAT WHY I HAVE STATE REPRESENTATIVES, AND IT IS THEIR JOB TO WRITE THE LAWS NOT NFPA !!!
Actually, many states have laws and regulations that are written, verbatim, from NRA produced language/documents that was handed over to state legislators and submitted for approval. You clearly don't understand the difference between laws and regulations, nor do you understand the legislative and regulatory process. Try using this argument the next time you need a permit and see how far it gets you.
@@pld8993 NOT CRAZY LIBERAL STATES! My state put the books from NFPA in the library next to the state statues and said go by these period. THE actual statue reads anything we don not cover is to be done by NFPA rules and then removed everything else! My house is 120 years old and has a 6 inch clearance(NO fire yet) , the makers of b vent said it needs 1 inch clearance, now NFPA say you need 18 inches all the way around a 6 inch pipe that a 39 inch hole in the wall . I UNDERSTAND ITS CALLED crony capitalism YOU LOBBY THE RIGHT PEOPLE, PUT MONEY INTO THEIR CAMPAIGN FUNDS, KNOCK ON DOORS, HAND OUT FLIER AND LEAVE DOOR HANGERS (DO NOT GO NEAR THE POSTAL BOX) A FEW ADDS IN THE LOCAL PAPER AND RADIO STATION, DO NOT FORGET TO CLAIM THESE CONTRIBUTIONS IN KIND, AND YOU GET TO SELL YOUR PRODUCTS AT GUN POINT NEEDED OR NOT!! I PULLED OUT OF THE STATE! ALL MY ASSETS ARE IN STOCKS . So to hell with the permits. SO DON'T YOU GIVE ME ANY MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT!!
@@bobpawtucket1336 Anyone who knows to fill out paperwork can run for office, and doing so does not mean they have any understanding of regulatory or legislative processes. Keep talking and putting your ignorance on full display. It's very entertaining to watch someone who thinks they know what they're talking about keep showing us that they don't.
just because an update of the code doesn't mean every house sold with untouched electrical need the updated codes to sell. Isn't it call grandfathered? Why are all these home inspectors and municipalities requiring these new codes? Keep up the good information to the youtube world!
Excellent video. It's obvious you put a lot of work into the content prior to the filming. That resulted in a lot of great content presented in a concise manner. Thank you.
Ahh.. nice to meet a member of the code making panel. Thanks for dropping by.. Yes there is a lot of misinformation around. I'm certainly not perfect but I try to back up what I show and say with the actual code reference.
Leviton Tamper-Resistant Surge Outlet (T5280-W) installation instruction Step 7 reads: "Installation may now be completed by carefully positioning all wires to provide room in outlet box for receptacle. Mount the Surge Protective Receptacle in wall box, with the ground contact upwards, using the two long mounting screws supplied. Attach wallplate."
You will always get a violation no matter how hard you try. There are many safe ways to wire but will be identified as a violation because of picky, obscure, incomprehensible code.
The code can be confusing but once you break it down it's not that bad. I used it like a tool daily as I was writing job specs for years. After a while it became very easy to use and understand.
The overwhelming majority of code requirements and language are neither obscure or incomprehensible. If you want to know what the code says, read it yourself and don't let someone else tell you what it says.
You should see how mobile homes are wired from the factory. It's a mockery of any electrical safety codes. One 15amp breaker on 14/2 runs half the mobile home. 9recepticles 4ceiling lights 1bathroom fan. Breaker trips constantly. Homeowner gets sick of it and installs a 20amp breaker on that 14/2 wire running half the mobile home. If people are going to live in mobile homes, our government needs to shut down the lobbyists and require mobile home manufacturers to wire according to more strict wiring safety standards.
Some other electrical videos you may be interested in watching.
🔌 Wire stripper tips - th-cam.com/video/sLkZWObclF0/w-d-xo.html
🔌 Electrical Pigtails - th-cam.com/video/K3RIjUnrNTQ/w-d-xo.html
🔌 Receptacle Orientation - th-cam.com/video/3AAKEeDcZ34/w-d-xo.html
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I'm a retired 55 yrs. Master Electrician and am constantly amazed at the shade tree tradesmen giving poor and dangerous advice on TH-cam. Your site is a very pleasant relief using facts and actual code references to point out the correct way to do electrical work.
I too have been in the electrical industry (mostly large industrial work) my whole life either as an electrician or electrical engineer. You have me on years though. I just turned 60 and spent 40 years in the trade.
I hate old crusty electricians that think they know everything because it was written in a document designed to keep people out of the market. Unions are the worst.
Same here, between IBEW journeyman electrician, licensed master electrician and an electrical inspector total of 58 years, nothing infuriates me more than a home inspector or a realtor tell me that I'm over qualified or an weekend electrician that never once attended a Code class and bought a NEC book just to say the has one.
Way too many youtubers "dictate" you must do things their way. It's good to have someone who references the written code.
Thank you. Im certainly not perfect but I try to make sure to spread factual knowledge rather than opinion. Although electricians all seem to be opinionated. lol. Myself included.
BM is correct it is not a mandate and this is an old debate. The person who called me out on it was an engineer who was being a dick.
When I get bored, I find an electrical youtube video and go to the comment section. 😁😁
Funny stuff here 😂
I go to. the plumbing videos /comments. I don't see as much craziness in electrical.
Thank you!! So glad to see someone debunk this misinformation. Too many youtubers ot checking their facts before spreading it all over fhe world !! Subscribed.
Well said! Welcome to the channel.
If you think TH-camrs are bad, think of all the electricians that have been misled by a poorly informed inspector who "interpreted" the code the wrong way....
As a licensed master electrician in Maine - I approve of this message!
I used to be a jack of all trades. I settled into one trade and have subscribed to a few true tradesmen's channels that are run by knowledgeable and skilled in the trades that I used to think I was capable in. I've learned a lot since then and my biggest take away has been "just because I learned to do something, does not equate to doing it correctly. " Thanks for taking your time to help us Jacks to learn.
It's my pleasure Scott.. This channel is designed to help out people just like yourself. Thanks for watching.
anyone that says they know all, doesn't know chit, best advice I ever got from grandpa and dad
Great short video!
@@BackyardMainetalking about the Wago lever nuts in a wet location, can they be used by themselves when wiring a receptacle in a bathroom? Or do you need to place them in a Wago Gel Box to meet code? Thank you for any advice you can give me.
@@watup110875 Try 30 years as a general contractor. Hands-on That means all the trades.
33 year general and electrical contractor here. Totally agree with your points. Although not required, all my projects have 12 ga wire for outlets. Also I always have separate circuits for lighting and receptacles. It never seemed smart to have the lights go out if an outlet tripped a breaker. An observation, as I am now in my 70's very few inspectors even try to challenge my expertise. Most inspections last no more than 5 minutes.
Thanks for sharing
I'm similar to you. Most inspections are me giving him info he needs for the certificate and then talking about retirement. Well, he's talking, I'm just dreaming. I too used nothing but 12 for outlets most my career, without question. That was until the great reset of a few years ago and prices skyrocketed. Now I'll give them the option. In today's world I think it's foolish but if they want the lowest price then it's 14 wire everywhere but the exceptions. And BTW, did he miss a coup locations where 12 is required? I didn't hear dining rooms or garage. He did have a 2023 book in the picture but surely they didn't eliminate those, did they?
@@snakeinthegrass7443 I did say Garages but not dining rooms. They are not required in dining rooms and thats not a change. Ive been in the electrical industry to 4 decades and I don't think the code ever required 20A circuits there. I do have the 2023 code and I took the 15 hour update as well.
@@BackyardMaine I apologize about the garage, geez I guess I missed it. Thanks for your credentials but it's unnecessary bc I know a pro when I see one. I've been around for almost 40 years myself. I wasn't questioning your knowledge, I simply did not hear you say those locations and was asking the other poster if you said them or if code changed. (not worded very well)
Anyway, I never looked it up before bc I was always told by coworkers and inspectors alike that dining rooms require 12 wire. Since my book is in the truck and it's nasty outside, I tried my luck on the internet and it appears this is one of those grey area that gets interpreted differently. I was searching some forums and such and it seems to come down to 210.52 (1) which refers to the small appliance circuits serving all receptacles covered by 210.52 (A) Pantry, Dining Room, etc. By default, then, they would also be on a 20 amp circuit. I have never seen anyone or certainly haven't done it myself, and that's pulling ANYTHING off the countertop outlets except other countertop and island receptacles. That's crazy, imo.
So in short from what I've found in a few minutes of searching, that section says the small appliance circuit "must serve" those other outlets in those locations. IMO that means a 20 amp circuit - and from my understanding it's bc of things like buffet tables with hot plates and other meal-related appliances. I do know that even inspectors disagree on codes from time to time. I've been frustrated several times over conflicting interpretations. So if your people pass 14 wire in the dining rooms, great. Maybe it's a geographical thing as well. I'm in upstate NY, near Albany, so maybe they're a little stricter, Idk. I just do what they tell me. So no hard feelings. I sensed you were a little upset with my post and I'm sorry if it came across as offending. Peace and blessings
That is how I, a DIYer, do it. Just makes sense. I began rewiring parts of our 85 year old house after my mother had the fuse box replaced with a breaker panel (by a professional, of course) and breakers started tripping. Left all the overhead light fixtures and most receptacles on one circuit. Was a rats nest to untangle. We're all conduit, so that did make some things easier.
So, I'm new to this. Does this ever happen - an inspecting agent requires something even though it is NOT required by the NEC code. Has that happened to anyone? How do you handle that?
I hear it happens but I have only had it happen to me once when I was working a job in Vermont. I appealed to the state inspector and he said I was good to go. The local inspector was not happy though. It would have cost me $1000s to fix so I pushed back.
The local authority having jurisdiction is the final say provided he is following local ordinance. If he tells you something that is beyond what local ordinance requires you will have to go to the local board and argue your case, where if you cite local ordinance required you will win. Local ordinance can be more stringent than national code. It cannot be less than national code.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 not true. a state is not required to adopt the NEC in its entirety. local codes can provide exceptions to NEC. case in point, in my state, it is acceptable to install a non GFCI protected single receptacle behind a refrigerator, washing machine, or other fixed appliance, if it is located in such a way that the appliance prevents ready access, and it is labeled as being not GFCI protected.
@@kenbrown2808 that used to be standard in the NEC.
I worked as a Sr. Electrical Design Engineer for a very large electrical contractor. Sometimes over 1000 electricians. I got calls often from electricians on jobs stating that they just failed an inspection. After drilling down to make sure what was done, and what the inspector said, there are a few methods to resolve it. First, call the inspector and request a written statement of the violation. Call the inspector and read the appropriate section of the adopted code and give your understanding of that section and “Why”. Get out your code book when told of the violation, and look it up with the inspector. If all else fails and there is a Chief Inspector, call them and discuss the install, the inspectors statement, the code section, and read your point to them. There are numerous situations that could be told, but would take too long. If you do your homework, and you are absolutely correct and have proof, you will win every time. Just “Make Sure” you are correct first!
Had a City plans reviewer fail my plans on an industrial project. Said all the CB sizes exceed the wire ampacity, duh, they were motor circuits, had to educate him on the Code for motor circuits.
I have run into similar issues in the past. lol
That would fail in europe too, thats why they use "type D curve" circuit breakers for motors.
@@bladeoflucatiel we use those as stand alone breakers in panel boxes we build. if it's a premade panel 120/240v 3 phase it uses standard breakers which don't have different curves .
That’s severely annoying. Have you also had the pleasure of dealing with HVAC contractors that don’t understand circuit sizing in relation to condensing units? I’m constantly asking for minimum circuit amps for units and they’ll just spit out the max breaker size. Can’t tell you how many times I’ve had to explain that that wasn’t the question and why that’s the case
@@r.k.werner2688 "Take a picture of all the nameplate rating stuff and send it to me, thankyouverymuch, and I'll not have to call you again." I'm surprised you didn't get quoted locked rotor amps.
Good, clear video. The NEC is a minimum standard, it is not a design guide. As consulting design engineer, I've come across some inspectors who are retired contractors who have been doing things wrong for years.
Thank you.
I've seen the exact opposite of what you described electrical engineers that think they know it all when it comes to the NEC 40 years of hands on in the trade is more viable than four years of book learning
How about the "certified home inspectors" who never worked a single day in the trades? They cause more problems than anyone.
@@kd9856 One reason I retired early was a school project where none of the electricians read or spoke English. So none of the drawing notes were followed and the work met "NEC minimums" but not the specific State requirements for educational facilities shown on the design drawings.
Interesting, how I learned all of this back in the 80s, and it still hasn’t changed.
I still have all of the rules from back then in my head.
I still do a lot of electrical, and I always go toward the side of safety for ANY project.
I’ve had a lot of arguments over the years, and always win with the Safety First argument.
When in doubt, over engineer it!
Works in plumbing and carpentry, too!
Depending in which city I worked in, I always ask inspector what he wants to see in his city. Saves me a whole lot of headaches.
I ask what you require. The answer is I'm not a teacher. What does the code say and I'm licensed
I have always have a problem with the power of building inspectors, they need to have their wings clipped. Just look at Lehtos law, you do all these things to make one inspector happy and the next one tells you none of it had to be done happens all the time. I had one inspector tell me on an out side door you can replace a window that keeps getting broken or you can put in a solid door , but you cannot put a wood panel in a door that did not come with one HE DROPPED IT WHEN I OFFERED TO TAKE HIM TO COURT AND MEANT IT !! ALL MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT !!!
That has always been my go to! Ask the inspector what he (or she)wants to see. They appreciate the nod to their "expertise"...
@@bobpawtucket1336 Well you probably better figure out sooner than later ... if you engage in pee'ing contests with them . For the most part they will be happy to oblige you and show you where the bear shiots in the woods .
Because their job is to clip your wings if you are not flying straight .
Other than a few odd cases , I can't say I have ever had much problems with inspectors. And most in my experience are actually helpful . Which is how I firstly learned most of the electrical requirements starting out in the jack of all trades handyman line of work I've been in for 40ish years .
Which I have installed nearly 2 dozen meter main service entrance setups and lots of branch work.
Permits taken out by the home owner or somebodies license they knew or general contractor I was working for at the time .
Less is more when dealing with inspectors , and usually it is always better to be there if they fail something rather than having to discern it from their paperwork.
Try and view them as helpful rather than adversarial would be the best advice I can tell you ;)
@@bobpawtucket1336 I'd say engaging in power struggles with an inspector is never a good idea , unless you enjoy those kind of contests and all the friction that come with them .
Try the less is more approach maybe ;)
This would be very helpful, if I were wiring my house. Unfortunately, I'm wiring my boat, prepping it as a liveaboard. ABYC requirements are very different than NEC.
For one thing, you never use solid wire on a boat. Sometimes the toughest part of the job is knowing which standard applies.
I've never done anything with electrical but watched anyway just because I'm curious. I appreciate the concise video and not just ramble on making it 15 minutes long like many other channels do. You get right to the info. Very helpful. 💛
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
One additional comment about pigtails is regarding the myth even among electricians that they make troubleshooting easier. For the life of me I can’t understand that at least for side wired devices. First of all the current does not pass through the device only the bus bar on the side. That bus bar is not the part of the device that fails. Second of all screws will likely be more secure than wire nuts particularly when installed by DIYers. Sure screws can loosen but so can an improperly installed wire nut. Then of course pigtails are just more stuff to jam in the box which in itself can cause then to loosen. Sometimes you need them but if you don’t it seems to me that they are not worth the extra effort and provide no benefit.
The issues I see with the NEC is that old work never has to be upgraded. Houses built 50 or 60 years ago were wired with maybe 10 or 12 circuits and still function today. Even though we are using more electrical items today we are drawing less current due to modern electronics. If I turned everything in my house on I might draw 50 to 60 amps on a 200 amp service.
I have always have a problem with the power of building inspectors, they need to have their wings clipped. Just look at Lehtos law, you do all these things to make one inspector happy and the next one tells you none of it had to be done! Happens all the time. I had one inspector tell me on an out side door you can replace a window that keeps getting broken, or you can put in a solid door , but you cannot put a wood panel in a door that did not come with one HE DROPPED IT WHEN I OFFERED TO TAKE HIM TO COURT AND MEANT IT !! ALL MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT !!! THEY NEED TO GO BY THE STATUTE AND NOTHING BUT THE STATUTE!!!
If you simply read the code yourself, you don't have to rely on others to tell you what it says.
Grampa had his own code for his shed, just wire nut together and wrap with plenty of tape, no box needed.
I have seen that and worse. I actually rewired a home after a fire that has started where someone connected zip cord to a 20A circuit using wire nuts and tape but no box. The zip cord fed an outlet for an electric heater on the bedroom. Luckily nobody was hurt.
Look closely there appears to be a code violation over his shoulder. EMT run between termination points shall be securely fastened within (3 ft) of each outlet box, junction box, device box, cabinet, conduit body, or other tubing termination.
Nope the nipples are all less than 3 feet and don't need support. Good try but though..
The house I live in has the upstairs bathroom light and plug, kitchen light, range hood fan, downstairs bathroom light and outlet, kitchen light, range hood fan, patio light, dining room outlet, and three living room outlets all on one 15 amp breaker. The landlord doesn't care that it often trips. I've tried to tell him that just knowing the circuit is overloaded means his fire insurance is voided. He just laughed. I have three months left on my one year lease and am looking for a place to move to.
Good idea to move. Regrettably, his insurance will likely not be voided, however. Many, many fires are caused by human error, stupidity, or cheapness, and are still likely valid claims. The insurer would have to know that the circuit was overloaded, and then find out that the landlord knew it well ahead of time. These are both hard to determine after a fire.
Every year at Christmas there are dozens of house fires caused by "octopus" outlet multipliers for light strings on skimpy extension cords. Most people know or could know that this is hazardous, but the resulting fire is likely a covered claim.
Even if it is overloaded, that's what the overcurrent protection device is for - so it can't start a fire. I mean after all, you can at any time overload any outlet in your house, and that doesn't magically void your insurance.
That's not only dangerous but just plain stupid.
Codes change and what was allowed yesterday may not be tomorrow. If your circuit is overloaded then the breaker will trip, no need move and make a scene.
If it was grandfathered in that way and was allowable at one time, you may be out of luck. Lots of older houses from the 40's and 50's only had four or six circuits total. If it was a modern hack job done without a permit though, you may be able to withhold paying rent until it is fixed. You will have to do your own research to find out what your rights are here.
The way I understand it regarding pigtails at a receptacle is the receptacle would have to be listed as a splicing device. It has nothing to do with the NEC. You would have to contact the manufacturer of the receptacle to find out if their device was listed for splicing.
You kind of right which is why the statement about pigtails being required is false. Also all UL listed 120v receptacles sold in the US are listed for pass through. As a matter of fact 15A receptacles have a 20A pass through current rating.
I must be casually watching the wrong videos. I've never seen any of this BS professed before.
I'm not blaming other creators. I see this stuff in my comment section and in the comments of other creators in my niche.
I hang out at an electrical contractor's forum. Every once in a while, a newbie will come on seriously asking about ground up vs ground down. This immediately triggers a food fight in the comment section that makes the Civil War look, well, civil. All in good fun, of course.
Just like "what oil should I use" on car forums and media platforms.
Thank you, as a class 1 and 2 licenses holder in GA. for 25 years I too become frustrated by some peoples "Shared personal interpretation " of the N.E.C. it often makes me question the overall effectiveness of the reading skills taught in our public school system and our community colleges. :-) L8R G8R
I have actually told some commenters who insist they are right.. "I can explain it to you but I can't understand it for you".
@@BackyardMaine
Very true!
As with a drukard, you can always tell a dummy, ya just can't tell em much!
:-) L8R G8R
Some are just good ideas, especially the service loop, if your DYI, and you are the only inspector that matters, keep the extra wire, might come in handy later. 12 gauge on a 15 amp circuit is overkill, but allows for you to swap the breaker and the fixtures without running new wire. Both costs a little more, but its not like your wiring a full house.
Why *not* wire the whole house with 12 gauge? The flexibility is worth [the extra cost] imo. 14 gauge is pretty wimpy.
Finally, somebody got rid of the The wife's tails, not the Pig tails The code book is minimum standards. You can do better.
The code book is a lot more than a minimum standard.. I hear that a lot in the comments and it's not accurate. I have a video on pigtails and when I use them but they aren't required because they aren't always necessary.
I recommend DIYers purchase the NEC Handbook. It has the complete NEC in one color of print and explanations, examples in a different color. Also includes pictures and drawings. Therefore is about twice as thick as the NEC. Some of the NEC is confusing and having something written just a little different helps. Also a second source of information is helpful when dealing with someone that does not understand. I purchase the handbook every other cycle.
That's great advice..
Yeah, but unfortunately spending $280 for a huge printed book, just to replace an outlet is not really a reasonable ask for most DIYers.
It actually rather pisses me off that these are codes that are fundamental to doing work safely and in some cases could actually make the difference between a safe environment and a deadly hazard that could burn down a house and/or kill a family member, yet they're stuck behind several-hundred-dollar paywalls (and even then only provided in hard-to-use printed forms with no search ability, etc), pretty much guaranteeing that lots of the people who really _should_ be reading them will just not be able to, or won't want to.
There really should be a better and cheaper way for non-professionals to have access to this really important information, IMHO.
The series of Code Check books available at lumber yards is a great resource and reasonably priced.
@@foogod4237AFAIK, there is a PDF version, but it's also behind a paywall.
Source: I found such a file on the High Seas.
Personally when it comes to pig tailing outlets, I think the method is just better practice as the advantage it provides is if the outlet fails in the future it won’t kill everything else down stream
pigtails add another NEEDLESS connection that can fail
You could make a whole series of videos on this topic! Like, how many receptacles per circuit in a dwelling unit. Many many grounding comments.
That's what I was thinking too. I want to see how this one does to see if there's enough interest. So far it's preforming quite well.
@@BackyardMaine If you need some more ideas, I can make a list as I think of them. Let me know
@@KevinCoop1 I have a pretty long list now but sure I'm always open to ideas from my viewers. Thanks Kevin.
I'm looking at my copy of the 1981 NEC code on my bookshelf as I watch this.
My first code book was 1984. I think I still have it somewhere.
@@BackyardMaine1984 here too.
Uglys electrical reference is s another good resource
Uglys is a must have.... Thanks for bring that up.
Thank you for the videos and the correct information. There is a lot of false info out there and most won’t take the time like you have. Thanks again. Keep up the good work.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting. 👍
Very nicely presented John. I only have one pet peeve that wasn't mentioned. The use of the word "Illegal" to point out a code violation. That would mean I could be charged with a crime and receive a fine or jail time! AHHHH!! " Non-compliant" would be proper and even then everything is "subject to the interpretation of the authority having jurisdiction" Meaning, You do it the way the AHJ wants it regardless of what the code says.
false claims? FALSE claims? on the interNOT??? WHODATHUNKIT !!!!!
What's the logic behind securing the cable within 10" of the box with a maximum of 18" of cable? From a homeowner perspective, all it does is make otherwise simple repairs difficult, never having enough wire to pull out if they're cut short, or making it next to impossible to get the box out of the wall.
In the Low Voltage and Communications side, leaving a service loop or "love loop" is the norm (or at least it was ~20 years ago when I was doing it).
Very useful video! Thank you!
Thank you. 👍
Good to know that my "codes for homeowners" book is right about these 5 things!
Pig tails are code here. And 14 gauge wire is against code as well. But as he explains this NEC code. Local codes always come first.
One thing that I feels like it should be a requirement is that inspectors tell you exactly what part of the code this or that violate. But "this is against code" and you have no way to know why beside looking through the full code plus state plus city amandements, and whatever other special cases that may occur, whouln't be the responsability of the electrician, but the inspector that claim it violate it.
Los Angeles county, which includes the city, does or used to have a UL or other recognized safety agency (ETL) on any permanently installed appliances. Plug connected or not, like a dishwasher for example. If the device is unlisted the city actually has it's own test lab for a cost of course! (Just another infamous California government money grab). This was often a serious issue in technical and data centers where much of that specialized equipment bolted into racks (then considered a permanent appliance) was not listed due to the cost and requirement to provide sample products which will be destroyed by testing. UL finally stepped in early 1993 and offered a new certification level for commercial and industrial equipment. The inspection was just for basic electrical safety and was not destructive. However the UL sticker had to say the equipment was only to be installed in a commercial environment.
I am an EE who designs some of that specialized equipment and I got burned with this new certification. I used to take the line cord ground or ground terminal on a power connector and bond it to the chassis with the first convenient screw. No Good! The power cord ground must be bonded to the chassis with a dedicated fastener. You can't use a screw that is serving another purpose. Fortunately that was easily fixed on very small production products.
You can find a code restriction against a cord with dual male ends, i.e. plugs on both ends.
I must say I’ve never heard of any of these misconceptions; though that may be because I’m an electrician and learned through the code. I’ll ad that some devices may be bared by municipal ordinance even if allowed under NFPA 70, NEC; for example all of the devices we hardwire must be UL listed.
All your videos are well done and much appreciated, but please stop the hand waving, it is very distracting. Thanks - Phil
I’m my part of the country ( Aspen) outlets move frequently, so we implement what is called an Aspen loop, although it is not required by code, I can’t tell how many times it has come in handy to have that extra wire there!
My current home has 20A outlets in the kitchen, laundry, and bathrooms.
My last house had them on 15A circuits until I added 20A to the kitchen.
I enjoy being able to run a toaster oven and a microwave at the same time, and have the refrigerator kick on too, without a breaker tripping.
amen, forgot coffee pot ROFL
@@watup110875 Yeah, the hot water pot pulls a few amps.
My poor kitchen has separate circuits for the fridge, garbage disposal, dishwasher, and the lights, but only one circuit for the counter-top outlets. We can't run the toaster-oven and microwave at the same time, unfortunately. Or the induction kettle plus one either, for that matter 😞
@@junkerzn7312 I hope your bedrooms and living room don't share those circuits.
When I would trip the kitchen breaker, my TV and the computer in the spare room would have no power.
@@patmcbride9853 Thankfully all the rooms mostly have their own circuits, but there are definitely a few really odd circuits in the house
One of the oddest circuits is a single outlet in one of the bedrooms that is on the bathroom's GFCI circuit (bathroom on the other side of the wall from the outlet). The other outlets in the bedroom are on their own circuit.
I kept tripping the bathroom GFCI with a particular surgy piece of equipment in the room. Finally got fed-up enough to go into the bathroom and rewire the GFCI plug. So now the room plug is on the same circuit, but not on the GFCI. The bathroom plugs are still on the GFCI of course.
-Matt
Another thing to be aware of is that not every state accepts the most recent version of the NEC into law when it comes out. The service loops are legal in this version but aren't in older versions and might not be in the next version.
I posted a pic of what state have adopted what version of the NEC. But the 18” max cable length between the last support and the box is nothing new
@@BackyardMaine actually, it is very new code wise. It used to be required to be a 12" length of cable to the box. How we used to have to get these service loops is between staples with the one closest to the box being tight enough that it supports the cable but loose enough that you could slide it through the staple.
@@BackyardMaine The "within 12" I remember from older code cycles, but 18" max cable length was first included in the 2020 NEC. My 2020 book is highlighted as a change from the previous code. I think the length between the box and last support was previously undefined. I don't have an older version to look back at though. Good video.
@@michaelduy9055 Hmm, you may be right. My memory isn't what it used to be. I have a 2017 code out in the shop. I'll check it out and get back to you. Thanks.
@@ianbelletti6241 You're probably right. I have an older (2017) code book in the shop. I'll have to check. My memory isn't what it used to be. lol Thanks
Many on here have commented that they "ask the inspector what he want's" I don't agree.
The way to get along with inspectors is to show them you are knowledgeable in the code. That way they respect you. If you ask them how to do the job.....that's not their job and it irritates most inspectors. They expect you to know the code.
Yes, there are some gray areas in the code and some things that are open to interpretation. I have run into all kinds of inspectors and in most cases, they are pretty good guys........but there is always the exception. When I have disagreed with an inspector and feel I am definitely right I will stand up to them. In two instances I have herd the old "not in my town" as if they own the town and told them "Ok let's take it to the State Board in Boston. In both cases they backed down.
Yeah, you don't want to irritate the inspector if you work in that town a lot but asking them what they want is not the way to go.
Interesting.. I F&^*King service loops, such a waste of money.
Lol, I caught flack in one of my videos for saying the receptacle is upside down. Working in a hospital as an electrician for 45yrs I was used to putting them ground up as metal cover plates are used and when a plate screw came loose and fell out the metal plate would hang on the ground instead of the hot/neutral prongs. Seen it happen many times even though all receptacles are checked as per code periodically! Never hurts to go the extra mile when safety is a concern.
I would certainly have commented on it. I've never seen outlets upside down and was quite surprised it's not against code. But I think we should recognize that it *is* against custom. There should be a very very good reason to do it.
@@StephenBoesch I put them upside down to identify a switched outlet.
You are amazingly helpful! Thank you!!
Thank you... Happy to help!
Well, to keep someone " on the job " at the nec, we must change up some things every so often in " new code laws " . Ahh, back in the days they didn't even run grounds and allowed it.
Did a lot of wiring and problem that sometimes arises with making pigtails they add to the box volume and often create a violation for not having a large enough box. Have used spec grade receptacles and when the customer ordered a last minute add on had to run a third 12/2 NM to an existing wall case then use approved spec grade receptacles that each screw can accept two wires under the pressure plate ( one on each side ) and only use a wire nut for the ground wires.Will use the green wire nut with a pass thru hole to save a wire that could make you add to cubic inch space needed .
Thanks, I was one of the folks who believed the pigtale lie. I hadn't taken the time to look it up, but I can certainly see where folks would make that mistake since multi-wire circuits are not well understood.
I'm going to make a video about multi-wire branch circuits because you're correct that many people don't really understand them or all the requirements for using them.
Required or not, I still find it a bad idea to run all your current through that dinky little tab on the side of the receptacle. I was advised against doing that by an instructor and have removed at least a couple receptacles that were hooked up like that and showed heat damage. One to the point of failure.
@@Wrencher_86 if you are seeing the tabs get that hot, something else is wrong. Likely, the circuit has been significantly overloaded. (space heaters, coffee pots, microwaves, and hairdryers are common culprits). I would ask if they have been resetting the breaker a lot. It could also be a manufacturing defect; many builders opt for the cheapest junk. I would also be skeptical of the overcurrent device. The tabs should handle 20 amps continuously, even on 15-amp devices. (mind that you can't legally pull the total rating for over 3 hours without derating.)
Anyone who buys the cheapest receptacles at the big box store is rolling the dice.
I have listened to the first code several times. I understand the single circuit but can not get what you are saying about the multi circuit part. Are you saying the common ground can or can not be pigtailed? Why would you have a multi circuit to a recipitical?
Single gang plasric boxes without a clamp need support within 8 inches of cable length
Correct. 314.17 (2) Exception.
@BackyardMaine I am on tik tok 95k followers and Instagram 20k followers. I am also from maine. Just start making videos Just under a year ago.
If I look at a 2 prong outlet, the neutral should be on the right. Extending that to a grounded outlet says the ground should be up. Just doesn't look like a face.
You know what? It's like the code book was written for a reason or something..... weird
Nec is great its logical , but go to theae towns around the major city and stupidity that comes with some of tuose codes are just like what. How does that make sense, kind of stuff even after the inspector ezplai s to you why you had to donit like thisnin this town that is 5 min from the town next door that uses standard code for the area, not some crap couppe guys though of in back to make it seem like they are doing work
Well the 12gauge wire should be the minimum because of the brown out when using an electric iron or vacuuming cleaner
I was under the impression that people have started running all 12ga 20a circuits everywhere to avoid putting a 15a circuit somewhere they shouldn't.
And aren't people starting to do that for dual AFI/GFI breakers too? As easier to pass inspection, avoid mistakes, etc? Customer pays for it anyway, in their eyes.
That could make the installation considerably more expensive and we should always try to do the best for our customers. I don't think we should make decisions based on our lack of knowledge of the code. New installations require AFCI protection pretty much everywhere with a few exceptions like outdoors. GFCIs are certainly required everywhere and I have found them to be problematic on some circuits.
You showed a NEC CODE VIOLATION of the Forbidden Location of a receptacle over a hard wired heater. ????????
Actually it's an Informational Note that states: Listed baseboard heaters include instructions that may not permit their installation below receptacle outlets.
This applies to some but not all electric baseboard heaters. My baseboard heaters and most of them in Maine are hydronic or (hot water) baseboards and they do not have instructions restricting them from being installed under a receptacle because they don't get very hot.
I do upside down outlets in places that something could fall behind say something like a desk that way nothing could accidentally short out
Union need to work on that, foreman always asking the apprentice how to do the job. 😢 some people get mad at this bus is facts
Code says circuit MUST not be dependent on the device
That's in 300.13 and it ONLY applies to multiwire branch circuits, and ONLY applies to grounded conductors. Just like he said in the video.
This is exactly what I was talking about. You should watch the video again a pay attention to the part about 300.13.
Journeyman since 1983. Electrical Contractor in CA since 1988. I join you in being appalled and concerned about all the self-proclaimed electrical experts on YT. Thanks for the video.
My pleasure. Thanks for watching.
My personal favorite is people that call up their utility company because they measured their outlets and it was 119 volts ....and they want it to be 115.
And then I try to explain to them that "115 volts" just means an appliance can run on "50hz 110V" or "60hz 120V" and that the outlet is required to have an average voltage between 117 and 123 volts, so we aren't even allowed to set it to 115
*Edit
Before people hop in
It's a minimum of 114 for short periods of time (not the average) and 108 during brownouts.
I want 119. 115 is a ripoff.
Aren’t service loops a violation of anchorage with in 8” of receptacles
Don’t disagree with anything you said. On the topic of “approved,” you should have focused on the NEC definition. It’s all up to the AHJ whether it’s approved or not and equipment without a listing mark could still be approved, although it’s unlikely.
I did put up a note that said “Approved- acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction. It was easy to miss. I get the comment on listed devices and equipment all the time.
Claim #1: I strongly prefer pigtails so the whole load does not pass through every receptacle. Also, I have replaced MANY toasted "push-ins" and should not be used!
Agreed..
John, I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous … thank YOU for making me less dangerous !
Awesome. Keep coming back. I have a lot of new content coming up.
So just if you install 20 amp receptacles, you should use 12 ga wire. And 15 amp receptacles use 14 gauge wire. Since it is labeled on the package from the manufacturer. It could be a violation too install 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp receptacles ???
You can use larger wire like 12AWG on 15A receptacles as well but of course you will have to use the side wiring connection which I recommend anyway. The back stab connections are only listed for 14AWG solid copper wire. Ive been an electrician for decades and I as well as most other pros use 12AWG on 20A circuits and 14AWG on 15A circuits.
Idk why. But your vid is not available when I added it to my watch later.
You do a great job of getting to the point. Thanks!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching.
Lol
About 10 years ago an electrician friend of mine offered to hlep me with getting supplies to wire my house.
Unbeknownst to me he had finished doing a salvage job where he had acquired a few thousand feet of 10-3 BX
Well my house's wiring is now bullet proof 😂😂
The inspector took a look at the box , a look at the cable, and a look at me shook his head, shrugged his shoulders signs off and left without saying a word
That’s funny. Overkill but the price was probably right.
Nice video. Now do a video on the parts of the code that are unnecessary boiler plate that can be ignored without any compromise in safety or reliability. (I'm an electrical engineer, and I have met and worked with some of the IEEE guys who write the code, and I can tell you straight up that most of those guys have never touched a wire in their life. They are in their 60s and their useful life as engineers is over so they attend IEEE meetings and make up issues to "solve". )
I know what you mean. I was an electrician for over 20 years before moving into electrical engineering. There were some engineers that I knew that had no concept of the practical application of what they learned is school.
I understand the point that you are making but maybe you should rethink the way you are presenting it after acknowledging that the NEC and the Fire Code are 'written in blood '(as is said) and should be respected and followed. Just as unforseen conditions/ possibilities lead to tragedy and were afterwards backward engineered into Codes so we must humbly honor the Code admitting that we can't possibly know the genesis of every hard learned lesson built in to these codes. Yes, sometimes we see what looks like ill-advised new code or (worse) Manufacturer- influenced code but many times corrections are made in the next cycle. Despite misgivings I would definitely agree with on some things in the code, I think it wise to promote the NEC to other tradesman as a duty to abide by rather than anything less.
Wow, if I had moved any faster I would have broken the sound barrier by moving so fast to hit the like button!!!! Because number one was the biggest argument I had with another electrician I was working around on a job site a while back!!! Thank you for this video!!! 👍🤜
Wow, thanks! Glad it was helpful my friend.
Pigtails required where I'm at. It's a good code that "SHOULD" be an NEC code.
You mean it's required in writing and you've personally read the local code amendment, or someone told you it's required? Almost everyone I've heard proclaim that pigtailing is required end up being proven wrong.
you can't leave a service loop on a single gang box that doesn't secure the wire 314.17(B)(2) exception
That's true. We cannot leave much of a loop. We can however support the cable closer than 8 inches and have some slack if needed. Example: you could gain 4" of slack if your staple was at 4 rather than 8 inches.
Today is the first day I have ever seen your channel and I think I've already watched 5 of them.
Really like the way you talk about codes and etc.
100 thumbs up 👍
Thank you so much my friend.
In a bedroom we used to flip the switched receptacle if one was in there so the owner would know but not required
A service loop is great if you can get to the point of security by staples behind the finished wall without damaging the wall!
All circuits should be secured at least 6”from outlet boxes.
By code it's 8" for single gang plastic boxes without clamps and 12" for boxes with clamps. I made a video about code requirements for NM cable.
"adopted" = taken in, used as is.
"adapted" = we'll use the majority of it, but we'll make a couple tweaks.
Methinks you meant "adapted".
Good point but I did mean to say adopted. When the code adds a new standard they say they "adopted that standard" which in effect is taking it in as a requirement and it being used by electricians and installers.
Yay! Code text and paragraph numbers! Yay!
The only reason a dislike the ground up orientation is that the vast majority of 90° plugs are ground down. Not saying that’s a good reason, just saying that’s why I do ground down.
I also don’t find myself handling thin metal objects directly against a wall. 😐
I agree. Actually many electrical devices are UL listed based on a ground down installation and to use it otherwise would void the listing.
The choice of 12 AWG or heavier wiring for outlets depends on specific use cases. Some years ago my friend acquired a window air conditioner that was plugged into a bedroom outlet at the opposite end of the house from the electrical panel, a Manhattan distance of well over 50 ft. The builder had cut costs and had wired most of the outlets in the residence with 14 AWG wire. The voltage drop was so severe that the air conditioner compressor would _barely_ start when cold, but would stall on a hot restart. The solution was to run a 12 AWG Romex cable from the breaker panel through the crawlspace to the rear of the house and tie it into the outlet circuit, effectively supplying it with a 10 AWG run, which practically eliminated the voltage sag from the air conditioner, hair dryers, clothes irons, etc.
Sounds like it was a considerable distance from the panel. Also the connection method used plays a role as well. I run a window unit on a 15A breaker with 14 gauge wire about 50 feet from the panel with no issues at all.
Though not against code, I have seen few of these actually specd out on the blue prints ( all outlets 20 amps; 14 Guage wire only used on lighting; and yes I've seen it specd out to have grounds facing up, lol)
Yup thats not surprising at all.
Fun fact, in 90.2(A) (2023) the NEC states it's not intended as a guide or manual for untrained persons. If you're an untrained DIYer the NEC explicitly states it's not applicable to you. 🙂
It’s not a guide or a manual for anyone really. It’s a standard that we use along with our training to insure safe installations. Saying it doesn’t apply to DIYer means it doesn’t apply to apprentices either.
@@BackyardMaine -
I'm being facetious. I just like to point that out whenever an electrician tells me something I've done "GoEs aGaInS ThE NeC".
"Whelp, I'm not a trained electrician so the NEC isn't applicable to me. Says so right here..." Most of the time these are the electricians (real or otherwise) that think the NEC is *THE LAW*.
Our home was built in '95 and the builder ran ONE 15-amp, 14 gauge circuit to feed the outlets in all 3 bathrooms, the front outside outlet, the backyard outside outlet, AND the garage. I can't believe they ever got away with this...
The house I'm in is like that, too. There's only one GFCI, at the head of the circuit, of which the first receptacle is in the garage.
Either there is no code enforcement in your area or the inspector needs a refresher course. lol
when the house was built, they should have had an open walls inspection of wiring and plumbing to see what is run where unless that area has no inspections while building.@@WhiteG60
My house built in 85 is similar, all bathrooms and outside outlets all on one 15A circuit with a GFCI in one bathroom.
@@WhiteG60 It would depend on the inspector. Some are really good and others not so much. There are two electrical inspections. One after rough in but before the walls are closed and a finish inspection when everything is complete. I would assume if the electrician spread out his circuits like that you wouldn't have very many drops at the panel. A garage circuit needs to be a 20A dedicated circuit and a bathroom needs a 20A circuit at the sink. This like this should be easy for them to detect at rough inspection.
I thought that was a butter-knife holder, but thanks to your video found out it was a NEMA5-15R
🤣
All your points are good, but what some people do not understand is the NEC is produced by the National Fire Protection Association which is a private for profit international origination that has nothing more to do with the government the National Rifle Association ! And you do not see states adopting NRA rules as their laws! Personally some NFPA rules are strictly for profit of their partner and supporting companies. I DO NOT LIKE WHEN STATES ADOPT THEIR RULES AS LAW. I DO NOT GET TO VOTE FOR THEM, THAT WHY I HAVE STATE REPRESENTATIVES, AND IT IS THEIR JOB TO WRITE THE LAWS NOT NFPA !!!
Actually, many states have laws and regulations that are written, verbatim, from NRA produced language/documents that was handed over to state legislators and submitted for approval. You clearly don't understand the difference between laws and regulations, nor do you understand the legislative and regulatory process. Try using this argument the next time you need a permit and see how far it gets you.
@@pld8993 NOT CRAZY LIBERAL STATES! My state put the books from NFPA in the library next to the state statues and said go by these period. THE actual statue reads anything we don not cover is to be done by NFPA rules and then removed everything else! My house is 120 years old and has a 6 inch clearance(NO fire yet) , the makers of b vent said it needs 1 inch clearance, now NFPA say you need 18 inches all the way around a 6 inch pipe that a 39 inch hole in the wall . I UNDERSTAND ITS CALLED crony capitalism YOU LOBBY THE RIGHT PEOPLE, PUT MONEY INTO THEIR CAMPAIGN FUNDS, KNOCK ON DOORS, HAND OUT FLIER AND LEAVE DOOR HANGERS (DO NOT GO NEAR THE POSTAL BOX) A FEW ADDS IN THE LOCAL PAPER AND RADIO STATION, DO NOT FORGET TO CLAIM THESE CONTRIBUTIONS IN KIND, AND YOU GET TO SELL YOUR PRODUCTS AT GUN POINT NEEDED OR NOT!! I PULLED OUT OF THE STATE! ALL MY ASSETS ARE IN STOCKS . So to hell with the permits. SO DON'T YOU GIVE ME ANY MALE BOVINE EXCREMENT!!
@@bobpawtucket1336 Again, your lack of understanding is evident.
@@pld8993 I HAVE RUN FOR OFFICE YOU AND BEEN INVOLVED WITH THE POLITICAL PROCESS FOR YEARS YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND !!!
@@bobpawtucket1336 Anyone who knows to fill out paperwork can run for office, and doing so does not mean they have any understanding of regulatory or legislative processes. Keep talking and putting your ignorance on full display. It's very entertaining to watch someone who thinks they know what they're talking about keep showing us that they don't.
just because an update of the code doesn't mean every house sold with untouched electrical need the updated codes to sell. Isn't it call grandfathered? Why are all these home inspectors and municipalities requiring these new codes? Keep up the good information to the youtube world!
You are correct. The code is not retroactive so existing installations don't have to be brought up to existing code.
Milwaukee and AF hat is why I'm here.
Excellent video. It's obvious you put a lot of work into the content prior to the filming. That resulted in a lot of great content presented in a concise manner. Thank you.
Much appreciated! Making content is actually a lot of work but it's all worth it when I read comments like this. Thank you.
As a former member of CMP 16, TH-cam misinformation drives me crazy
Ahh.. nice to meet a member of the code making panel. Thanks for dropping by.. Yes there is a lot of misinformation around. I'm certainly not perfect but I try to back up what I show and say with the actual code reference.
Ironic that TX used the 2023 code yet has such massive power failures.
The utility companies have their own regs which are not part of the NEC.
Thanks for debugging. Oh I know code
# 6. Residence no set amount of outlets on a circuit
I'm thinking of making a video on that as well. So many people even electricians get this wrong.
Leviton Tamper-Resistant Surge Outlet (T5280-W) installation instruction Step 7 reads: "Installation may now be completed by carefully positioning all wires to provide room in outlet box for receptacle. Mount the Surge Protective Receptacle in wall box, with the ground contact upwards, using the two long mounting screws supplied. Attach wallplate."
You will always get a violation no matter how hard you try. There are many safe ways to wire but will be identified as a violation because of picky, obscure, incomprehensible code.
The code can be confusing but once you break it down it's not that bad. I used it like a tool daily as I was writing job specs for years. After a while it became very easy to use and understand.
The overwhelming majority of code requirements and language are neither obscure or incomprehensible. If you want to know what the code says, read it yourself and don't let someone else tell you what it says.
Peter: What about people that don’t install service loops?
God: Straight to hell.
It's very rare at least in the north east to find a service loop.
You should see how mobile homes are wired from the factory. It's a mockery of any electrical safety codes. One 15amp breaker on 14/2 runs half the mobile home. 9recepticles 4ceiling lights 1bathroom fan. Breaker trips constantly. Homeowner gets sick of it and installs a 20amp breaker on that 14/2 wire running half the mobile home. If people are going to live in mobile homes, our government needs to shut down the lobbyists and require mobile home manufacturers to wire according to more strict wiring safety standards.