Would you consider using a barn door for a bathroom? Or do you need privacy? 😬 Asking to see how my house would do on the market if we added a barn door to the bathroom and decided to sell the house.. Thoughts??
@Enzo Moresi That's nice of you to install that for them! I installed one for a master bedroom on my previous home and it did the trick, it was private enough. And this newer one is closing off a laundry room and it blocks out noise pretty good. Definitely better than nothing!
These houses are always so clean and makes the install look so easy. What they don’t show is tools and crap everywhere and me dangling off a ladder cussing up a storm because my wife can’t figure out which tool I am asking for.
Update just bought all the wood with additional pieces for diagonals. It costs $128 for the wood only and good luck finding decent tongue and groove lumber not warped/twisted, I had to set lumber and weights on mine to get most of the spring out of it. Regardless, I still got a custom made door for a larger and taller archway (my door is 45"x90") for at least half the price for a cheap prefab one. Great video!
I almost, well was about to get a custom door made to have the width of 44”. After seeing this I’m going to make my own. I have all the tools needed. Great inspiration / video!!! 👊🏾
Just finished this build. All in it was a few hundred to a thousand dollars cheaper than buying a pre-fab from an online vendor! My only comments would be that I opted for a 2x4 header board instead of a 1" since the track hardware never aligned with the studs. It just seemed that the 2x4 would hold the track/door better than the 1x6. Thanks for posting the links to the parts.
At, 6:25 - Why are the slats on the backside of the door smaller than the front? Did you sandwich different wood pieces to the back to make the door thicker? What am I seeing here?
the back side of the tongue and groove has a line through the middle - it's how it comes from the store. It was unexpected but I ended up loving the look, almost better than the front side.
Best barn door video I’ve watched ❤Thank you for sharing!
4 ปีที่แล้ว +1
Hello my friend. Installation and construction of the barn door. I watched a successful study. It always works great. thank you for sharing. See you. Great greetings.
Great job and great video! I have a question. I built doors like this with t & g pine about 5 years ago and also used the same hardware. I glued the t & g together. About a year later, a couple of the vertical boards split. I realized then that I should not have glued the t & g to each other, but only glue the face boards to the t & g. When boards dry, they shrink in width, but not in length. The vertical t & g boards want to shrink while the horizontal face boards won't. Since the t & g boards are connected to each other and trying to pull apart and the horizontals won't let them, they are forced to split since the glue is so strong. Did you have any issues with splitting?
What is the best hardware to use. We recently bought and assembled a barn door from Amazon but the screws don't seem to hold. So now we are planning to mount the 2x4 for a more secure fit.
These are made of pine wood. Home Depot and Lowes both sell them in my area. Used to be $5/board but now like $8. And you can use screws instead of nails, but I’d wood fill over the screw heads so they aren’t visible
i just made this. the only change I would suggest is that the horizontal supports go all the way across. i did like yours and realized the two ends were not supported and nearly broke the two end tongue and groove boards. so had to go to lowes and buy six L brackets and put them on the vertical supports connecting to the 3 horizontal supports.
I haven't - the combination of clear coating all sides of wood, the 3 cross bracing pieces, and the tongue and groove design have kept it from twisting.
Forgive any ignorance on my part, but if the tongue and groove is an inch thick as is the 1x4, that makes the door 2” and the hardware says it’s for doors 1 3/8 to 1 3/4, was there anything special you had to do to accommodate the door or is that extra quarter inch negligible?
No worries! 1x4 material (both the tongue and groove and the 1x4 pine) are ACTUALLY only 3/4" thick - not really 1" thick. Therefore it's 3/4" + 3/4" = 1.5" thick and fits with the hardware. The stores just call it a 1x4 because it's easier than writing .75"x3.5" which are the true dimensions.
Nice job and looks great. Did you use anything at the bottom to stop the door from swaying? I’m about to make a similar door and wondering if I need to drill into my floor. I have 2 kids around your little one’s age and I obviously don’t want them messing with it. Thanks.
Thank you Jason! The door kit I used came with 2 different types of bottom door brackets that keep it from swaying. The bracket has a wheel so the door rolls along side it. One is for fastening to the floor and the other is for fastening to the wall/trim and it extends under and around the face of the door (which is what I used). Additionally, and I still need to this to mine, there are little disk to install at the top of the door that will make it where the door can't be lifted off the rails - huge safety issue here. Also included in most kits.
What did you use to secure the rail tot the header board? I couldn't quite see in the video. My rail came with lag bolts. In theory, I feel that they are long enough to go through the header board and the rails with spacers but that kinda defeats the purpose of the header board right?
This is definitely the easier of the videos even considering building the door LOL others remove the casing which I am trying to avoid doing. I might just use wood filler and paint to hide the old hinge areas.
Thanks for the response! I readily like how the stain came out on that wood. May I ask what wood you used? And also, how thick was the wood you used? I ask, because I am wanting to make bypassing barn doors for a wider space and I think this thickness would be perfect! THANK YOU!!
No problem! I just used the tongue and groove Whitewood boards from Home Depot for this one - they're like $5 each. Then the edge frame is 1x4s and the middle front board is a 1x6 - all just basic softwood you'd find at the store. In total the width is 1.5" thick - but the bolts in the back for the hardware are probably another inch or so. Good luck!
Question, would this be considered fine woodworking or finished carpentry? I want to work specifically on barn doors but dont know what direction to take
Had to take the bar back off to slide on the stoppers. should almost slide them on and into the rough area that they will sit and then put up the bar. Also what about the floor guide? How did you do your groove for the guide to slide into? Nice finish on the wood!
I just bought a new home and I have no door in my master bedroom leading to the sinks (but there is a door that goes in to the toilet/shower area.) After watching this video I'll definitely be building similar to this soon!!! Great job on the video and beautiful door!!
Thanks for the video, looks like I can DIY. What was the cost in wood at the time and what is the weight of the door? Looking to have something larger and the hardware says up to 220lbs
The wood was about $50 for the tongue and groove ($5.50 per board with 8 boards) and $15 for the pine edge pieces. Around $65 total. I'd say it weighs roughly 100lb. If you go wider on your door, you may need a longer rail than the one I used here - this 40" door barely opens with 100% clearance - it's just perfect. If you go wider it'll block your door with this rail length. Good luck! Hope that helps.
I love the video however, I do not see the material details for the wood used. I looked for a video but couldn’t find one. My door is the same size and I really want to build this. 😊
I would love to see another video of you doing EXACTLY that but instead of for a door making them barn shutters for windows (to open and close and let light in as you please)
That would be AWESOME! I have a room I'll be turning into a movie room soon and that could be a great way to block off the sunlight completely - rather than blinds.
I should have included that in the video, but this barn door kit came with 2 guide options. One to fasten to the floor and one that fastens to your baseboard and hooks under the door. Has a wheel that keeps the door rolling smooth.
Hello great video! I have been banging my head trying to figure out a good design for the same exact dimensions. I do have a quick question- I am not finding the material (lumber) list in the video, Ive watched a couple times and dont know what I am missing. Could you provide that?
Hey Dan! Definitely. -Tongue and groove from Home Depot/Lowes - they're about $6 each here. 1x6 size. -The border trims are 1x4s. -Middle trim is 1x6 (dont remember why I switched up size here but I like it) -Rail wood is 1x6 All of the wood is the basic whitewood from the hardware store. Lightweight, cheap, and has wood knots which I like. I do need to put together a more detailed instruction in my description and will get on that! Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I have added some wood filler and smoothed it out to match the frame. If someone looks closely, they can still see the outline but they'd have to know to look for it.
Awesome video, very helpful build video. I have a question, is the tongue and groove suppose to fit nice and snug or should there be play in it? Bought some from HD and they weren’t snug at all.
There will be a little play in it - especially since some of the boards will be warped even if you try to pick the best ones. I used a ratchet strap to keep them snug and secure while I fastened on the border boards with glue and nails.
Shawn is that you sir? I was thinking about turning my closet doors into barn doors. Just using the old doors and putting the Metal it. You think that would work?
Hey Jacob! Yea it's me! That'd work and look good. It'd be very light weight so it may move with air drafts or when a ceiling fan turns on, but nothing probably to worry about there. Good luck and that's awesome that you found this.
@@KellyConcepts I thought it would so I figured I would make a little latch for them. I’ll let you know if I decide to do it. I’ll check out more videos for sure man. Might do this in my mater
Hi, best video I have watched! Would it be possible to finish the inside of the door with the outside trim and center piece as well? Or would this not work with the hardware you used?
Thank you! Adding trim to the back wouldn't work very easily because the bolts for the rail hardware aren't long enough and if you have trim around your opening on the wall, it will hit against that. This only sets away from the wall trim by a quarter of an inch or so.
How does the bottom of the door not sway? I’m going to put one in while my house is being remodeled but I’m worried about it swaying. Nothing attaches to the bottom to prevent that?
I have a porch that only has storm doors that open to the outside. Reason is the concrete floor on porch is angle down toward the exterior doors/walls. I'm wanting to do these barn doors on the inside but needs to be weatherproof as well. That possible?
Would you consider using a barn door for a bathroom? Or do you need privacy? 😬
Asking to see how my house would do on the market if we added a barn door to the bathroom and decided to sell the house..
Thoughts??
Master bathroom seems like a fine idea to me. But on the guest bathroom that would be a little strange to use IMO.
If I would install one for a bathroom, it would only be for a bathroom that is attached to a bedroom.
I work on a lot of new construction homes and most master baths have barn doors
Guest bathroom...Only if the Barn door set up you were using comes with a stile pocket so you can lock it. Not having a lock on it would be strange
@Enzo Moresi That's nice of you to install that for them! I installed one for a master bedroom on my previous home and it did the trick, it was private enough. And this newer one is closing off a laundry room and it blocks out noise pretty good. Definitely better than nothing!
These houses are always so clean and makes the install look so easy. What they don’t show is tools and crap everywhere and me dangling off a ladder cussing up a storm because my wife can’t figure out which tool I am asking for.
Train her better.
Crybaby!😂😂
It's Do It Yourself, not Do It With Your Wife.
@@odys3803 we’re talking about home improvement not your sex life
Bwahahahaha!!! So true!
Ratchet straps in lieu of long clamps was a brilliant idea!
Update just bought all the wood with additional pieces for diagonals. It costs $128 for the wood only and good luck finding decent tongue and groove lumber not warped/twisted, I had to set lumber and weights on mine to get most of the spring out of it. Regardless, I still got a custom made door for a larger and taller archway (my door is 45"x90") for at least half the price for a cheap prefab one. Great video!
Could make your own tongue and groove with a router table…
Just wanted to say thank you. With this video, and the instructions with the mounting kit, I was able to complete my own barn door project.
I almost, well was about to get a custom door made to have the width of 44”. After seeing this I’m going to make my own. I have all the tools needed. Great inspiration / video!!! 👊🏾
Easy peazy! Doing that tomorrow! I've been procrastinating...silly me.😊
Just finished this build. All in it was a few hundred to a thousand dollars cheaper than buying a pre-fab from an online vendor! My only comments would be that I opted for a 2x4 header board instead of a 1" since the track hardware never aligned with the studs. It just seemed that the 2x4 would hold the track/door better than the 1x6. Thanks for posting the links to the parts.
How do you measure how high the rail needs to go so when you attach the bearings to the door it ends up at just the right height
Wow that looks great, definitely will be using the tongue and groove for mine too
At, 6:25 - Why are the slats on the backside of the door smaller than the front? Did you sandwich different wood pieces to the back to make the door thicker? What am I seeing here?
the back side of the tongue and groove has a line through the middle - it's how it comes from the store. It was unexpected but I ended up loving the look, almost better than the front side.
Beautiful. Where did you buy that one piece track?
thank you! the track was from Amazon amzn.to/4frtHVR
Best barn door video I’ve watched ❤Thank you for sharing!
Hello my friend.
Installation and construction of the barn door. I watched a successful study. It always works great. thank you for sharing. See you. Great greetings.
Thanks for checking it out!
I like how the stain turned out
Thanks Evan! Yea it cleaned this up nicely
Very nice video, we’re making one for our pantry, heading to Menards shortly! Good job👊👊
Thank you! It still works/looks like a charm - 3 years later. Enjoy
That barn door really looks awesome! The style, color, and hardware come together nicely. Great stud finding tip too!
Thanks, I'm happy with the turnout too. Goes to show I've come a long way, the last time I made a headboard similar to this, it was all warped lol
I can feel how smooth that ride on the track feels like 🔥🔥
I suddenly need to build barn doors for a house that we don’t have. 😂 saving this video for a future project!
Great job and great video! I have a question. I built doors like this with t & g pine about 5 years ago and also used the same hardware. I glued the t & g together. About a year later, a couple of the vertical boards split. I realized then that I should not have glued the t & g to each other, but only glue the face boards to the t & g. When boards dry, they shrink in width, but not in length. The vertical t & g boards want to shrink while the horizontal face boards won't. Since the t & g boards are connected to each other and trying to pull apart and the horizontals won't let them, they are forced to split since the glue is so strong. Did you have any issues with splitting?
Not just a maker but also a philosopher.
Haha wouldn't that be a great niche
Bat City Designs or a second channel. Bat City Philosophy
I use this to build my closet at my garage and planning to my barn door. Thank you. Good job.
Great video!
Great idea on the blue tape trick, will definitely use that little trick when I hang my barn door 🙂
Looks great, Shaun...nice video to...I really like the zoom in on the materials...nice touch!
Thanks! I'm always trying to enhance or do a new trick on each new video.
Great tip on the ratchet straps 👍👍
Had to think of something here, my clamps are just short of 40" lol
awesome. what grit sanding blocks do you use?
At 5:55 it looks like a bead board panel on the back, or is that just the back of the tongue and groove?
It's just how the back turned out. I almost like it more than the front and it was an accidental design
Can I use these tracks for outdoor shed ?
The door came out lovely and an overall job well done. Thanks for sharing.
Nice. So there's no trim or anything on the back side of the door?
Did you use a guide rail at the bottom?
Nice job, I do like the look. definitely 👍👍
Thanks! I'm enjoying it so far
Love the simple design
and he didn't have to remove the old door jam! Definitely trying this...
Very nice looking barn door, great build. Love that handle too.
Yea the hardware came out nice. Bulky and solid. Thanks for checking it out
What is the best hardware to use. We recently bought and assembled a barn door from Amazon but the screws don't seem to hold. So now we are planning to mount the 2x4 for a more secure fit.
What kind of wood are the tongue and groove boards?? I'm trying to find them at lowe's or home depot. Thank you for this video!
These are made of pine wood. Home Depot and Lowes both sell them in my area. Used to be $5/board but now like $8. And you can use screws instead of nails, but I’d wood fill over the screw heads so they aren’t visible
@@KellyConcepts thank you so so much for the response! I was even potentially thinking of trying to make it a rustic look with the screws 🤷🏾
i just made this. the only change I would suggest is that the horizontal supports go all the way across. i did like yours and realized the two ends were not supported and nearly broke the two end tongue and groove boards. so had to go to lowes and buy six L brackets and put them on the vertical supports connecting to the 3 horizontal supports.
Best one of these I've seen yet.
Oh my goodness, I love how these barn doors make a room look. You really did a fantastic job my friend. TFS
Thank you! Yea it changed the dining room in a big way
is that your Pops man, i love your work and this whole vibe in the video
Have you had any issues with warping with the season changes?
I haven't - the combination of clear coating all sides of wood, the 3 cross bracing pieces, and the tongue and groove design have kept it from twisting.
Thanks! This was the perfect tutorial for my a barn door build for our bathroom that didn't have a door. Great presentation.
Thanks! Just what I needed today 🙂
Forgive any ignorance on my part, but if the tongue and groove is an inch thick as is the 1x4, that makes the door 2” and the hardware says it’s for doors 1 3/8 to 1 3/4, was there anything special you had to do to accommodate the door or is that extra quarter inch negligible?
No worries! 1x4 material (both the tongue and groove and the 1x4 pine) are ACTUALLY only 3/4" thick - not really 1" thick. Therefore it's 3/4" + 3/4" = 1.5" thick and fits with the hardware. The stores just call it a 1x4 because it's easier than writing .75"x3.5" which are the true dimensions.
great work buddy. looks real good 👍👍
Thanks man, I appreciate it
Nice job and looks great. Did you use anything at the bottom to stop the door from swaying? I’m about to make a similar door and wondering if I need to drill into my floor. I have 2 kids around your little one’s age and I obviously don’t want them messing with it. Thanks.
Thank you Jason! The door kit I used came with 2 different types of bottom door brackets that keep it from swaying. The bracket has a wheel so the door rolls along side it. One is for fastening to the floor and the other is for fastening to the wall/trim and it extends under and around the face of the door (which is what I used).
Additionally, and I still need to this to mine, there are little disk to install at the top of the door that will make it where the door can't be lifted off the rails - huge safety issue here. Also included in most kits.
I cannot find the materials list anywhere? Love this door
What did you use to secure the rail tot the header board? I couldn't quite see in the video. My rail came with lag bolts. In theory, I feel that they are long enough to go through the header board and the rails with spacers but that kinda defeats the purpose of the header board right?
This is definitely the easier of the videos even considering building the door LOL others remove the casing which I am trying to avoid doing. I might just use wood filler and paint to hide the old hinge areas.
Great video! Question- How much space do you have/want between the floor and the door? Thanks!
Thank you! I aimed for about an inch and would've been happier with even less on this project to block out the washer and dryer noise.
Thanks for the response! I readily like how the stain came out on that wood. May I ask what wood you used? And also, how thick was the wood you used? I ask, because I am wanting to make bypassing barn doors for a wider space and I think this thickness would be perfect! THANK YOU!!
No problem! I just used the tongue and groove Whitewood boards from Home Depot for this one - they're like $5 each. Then the edge frame is 1x4s and the middle front board is a 1x6 - all just basic softwood you'd find at the store.
In total the width is 1.5" thick - but the bolts in the back for the hardware are probably another inch or so.
Good luck!
Is there a list where i can see the exact size of materials with details down to size of every wooden board, lug bolts and everything else you used?
Great video and you made the process very easy to understand! Your video production is amazing! Take care and have a blessed day. - Ed
This one took some time to edit so thanks for noticing!
Question, would this be considered fine woodworking or finished carpentry? I want to work specifically on barn doors but dont know what direction to take
How do you keep the door from swinging out?
It the some kind of guide on the floor?
This was a huge help. THANK YOU !!!
Love the video wish you would have actually listed all the wood in the details
Absolutely Beautiful
So beautiful
Looks great!!
Did you install the door guide on the floor?
Beutifull and seems effortless 👌💪
Is there a gap between the door and wall
Super video!! Thank you
Great job!
Good job!! Perfect running time!
Really awesome job I'm going to use your design because of simplicity and quality
Had to take the bar back off to slide on the stoppers. should almost slide them on and into the rough area that they will sit and then put up the bar. Also what about the floor guide? How did you do your groove for the guide to slide into?
Nice finish on the wood!
Great vid. Checked my local home depot for materials list. Very expensive wow!! Almost cheaper to buy one but I love the feeling of diy
Prices of lumber have gone up atleast twice by now due to covid
@@KellyConcepts And still much cheaper than buying one.
did you install a stopped on the floor?
I just bought a new home and I have no door in my master bedroom leading to the sinks (but there is a door that goes in to the toilet/shower area.) After watching this video I'll definitely be building similar to this soon!!! Great job on the video and beautiful door!!
Wow! How simple was that? Awesome look! Can't wait to start ours in Big Bear California!
Thank you! Good luck, it's not difficult at all!
Do you have to add the board going across the top or can you drill the rail right into the wall ?
You can drill directly into the wall IF you have solid blocking behind the sheetrock. Sheetrock anchors won't be good enough.
Thanks for the video, looks like I can DIY. What was the cost in wood at the time and what is the weight of the door? Looking to have something larger and the hardware says up to 220lbs
The wood was about $50 for the tongue and groove ($5.50 per board with 8 boards) and $15 for the pine edge pieces. Around $65 total. I'd say it weighs roughly 100lb. If you go wider on your door, you may need a longer rail than the one I used here - this 40" door barely opens with 100% clearance - it's just perfect. If you go wider it'll block your door with this rail length. Good luck! Hope that helps.
What holds the door at the bottom? How does it not wave back and forth?
I love the video however, I do not see the material details for the wood used. I looked for a video but couldn’t find one. My door is the same size and I really want to build this. 😊
Hi what kind of door can I use with this?
This looks awesome! (And I love the handle.)
I wish there was a good spot for some barn doors in this house, but alas, no dice.
Haha thanks! This is literally the only spot for one in this house, so we took advantage.
This door turned out incredible! Great job on the build and on your detailed explanations!
Thank you! I wasn't sure how this one would go, but turned out great.
@@KellyConcepts Yes it did!
Looks great
I would love to see another video of you doing EXACTLY that but instead of for a door making them barn shutters for windows (to open and close and let light in as you please)
That would be AWESOME! I have a room I'll be turning into a movie room soon and that could be a great way to block off the sunlight completely - rather than blinds.
@@KellyConcepts Make. It. Happen!
Nice looking door! 👍
Thanks man!
What about the guide on the bottom to keep the bottom of the door from swaying?
I should have included that in the video, but this barn door kit came with 2 guide options. One to fasten to the floor and one that fastens to your baseboard and hooks under the door. Has a wheel that keeps the door rolling smooth.
What color stain did you use? Did you use SYP for the trim boards or some type of white wood?
Hello great video! I have been banging my head trying to figure out a good design for the same exact dimensions. I do have a quick question- I am not finding the material (lumber) list in the video, Ive watched a couple times and dont know what I am missing. Could you provide that?
Hey Dan! Definitely.
-Tongue and groove from Home Depot/Lowes - they're about $6 each here. 1x6 size.
-The border trims are 1x4s.
-Middle trim is 1x6 (dont remember why I switched up size here but I like it)
-Rail wood is 1x6
All of the wood is the basic whitewood from the hardware store. Lightweight, cheap, and has wood knots which I like.
I do need to put together a more detailed instruction in my description and will get on that!
Thanks for watching!
Awesome Job
Looks amazing and love the color,
one question:
What are you planing to do with the door frame that still has the holes from the hinges ??
Thank you! I have added some wood filler and smoothed it out to match the frame. If someone looks closely, they can still see the outline but they'd have to know to look for it.
I was just going to ask this question. Great video!
How did you stabilize the bottom of door
Hi what colour was the stain? Oak?
Awesome video, very helpful build video. I have a question, is the tongue and groove suppose to fit nice and snug or should there be play in it? Bought some from HD and they weren’t snug at all.
There will be a little play in it - especially since some of the boards will be warped even if you try to pick the best ones. I used a ratchet strap to keep them snug and secure while I fastened on the border boards with glue and nails.
How much of a gap is there between the barn door and trim? Thanks
Wow, just got an estimate for $2145.00 for the same exact thing. Glad I found your video. I will give this a go myself. Cheers!
Where do you find tongue and groove that is smooth on both sides? Lowe’s and Home Depot have rough cut on one side.
Which nailer do you have?
What size lag screws for the header board to the studs ?
Shawn is that you sir? I was thinking about turning my closet doors into barn doors. Just using the old doors and putting the Metal it. You think that would work?
Hey Jacob! Yea it's me!
That'd work and look good. It'd be very light weight so it may move with air drafts or when a ceiling fan turns on, but nothing probably to worry about there. Good luck and that's awesome that you found this.
@@KellyConcepts I thought it would so I figured I would make a little latch for them. I’ll let you know if I decide to do it. I’ll check out more videos for sure man. Might do this in my mater
Is the door spaced away from the trim around the doorway? Seems there are capped nuts on the bolts for the hangers that would hit the trim.
Hi, best video I have watched! Would it be possible to finish the inside of the door with the outside trim and center piece as well? Or would this not work with the hardware you used?
Thank you! Adding trim to the back wouldn't work very easily because the bolts for the rail hardware aren't long enough and if you have trim around your opening on the wall, it will hit against that. This only sets away from the wall trim by a quarter of an inch or so.
How does the bottom of the door not sway? I’m going to put one in while my house is being remodeled but I’m worried about it swaying. Nothing attaches to the bottom to prevent that?
I have a porch that only has storm doors that open to the outside. Reason is the concrete floor on porch is angle down toward the exterior doors/walls. I'm wanting to do these barn doors on the inside but needs to be weatherproof as well. That possible?