9 years later and this is still great info. Used this today to make an external door. Great info, simple and easy. Not a difficult job but a few really helpful pointers before I started!
A joy to watch your videos. Your workshop makes a great backdrop in the videos as well. Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great designs. Well done. One Handed Maker - Australia
Thanks for the instructional clip, we are building the barn doors to suit the new door frames, internal and external. Next up will be to replace the window frames using your old school builds.
Guys, Did you know we have a FREE weekly newsletter? www.aconcordcarpenter.com/subscribe Each week we’ll try to share topics from each of our sites along with our current giveaways and special offers from our advertisers. We’d love to hear feedback on this new format and hope you’ll enjoy this more robust publication. As always we appreciate your continued support. The newsletter is sent out once a week and is guaranteed to be chock full of useful remodeling and home improvement tips, tricks, tool news, tool reviews and home improvement advice.
Excellent video. I was too lazy to do it your way so I just used a piece of T111 siding under the battens. It doesn't look quite as good as yours but it was easier and saved a lot of time. One downside though - T111 soaks up a lot of paint.
Great explanation ! I am planning to build a door similar to this for a cold storage room I am putting in my basement . As the dead space below the stairs is being used the door is not a standard size so building my own was the best option !
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?
awesome dude - We have a quasi- A-frame cabin type home with cedar trim and ceiling. The builders have all rough side out and I've laced my arms and shoulders a few times with about 30 micro sized splinters, lol. It also is a little "cheesey' looking to me so I started pulling the trim off and flipping (where I can) around to the smooth side BUT oiling down and then hitting a light coat of Provincial stain which looks amazing. My hangup was what to do with the interior doors. They are incredibly cheap fiber board of some sort so was looking for how to actually build a cabin-type door with cedar where I could also apply the oil and provincial stain. You just solved this for me. THANKS FOR YOUR PAGE!!
Quick tip for anyone building this, make sure BOTH diagonal braces have the low end on the hinge side other wise it will twist through wet and dry weather.
I needed a door for my mini horse shelter. I used 2x3s and 6' pickets. Using my router, I set groves into the 2x3 frame, holding the pickets. Came out nice and is fairly light. Not as solid as yours, but for what it is being used for, it's good. I'm not really a wood worker but it's super easy. If anyone wants a nice door but you are scared to try it, the design in this video is definitely something that you can do with simple tools.
Very well explained. I choose to work with rough sawn boards from sawmill about 15 miles away . Guess I like the atmosphere of the mill and have waited to have boards cut. Nobody is in a rush and I like full dimensional lumber. Anyways this is a great video for me utilize while building a door for my recently built wood shed .
Importantly, no glue was used in the making of that door. Also, wrought iron nails are still available if you want to go totally old school on this door and cinch with nails. It's a simple technique and easy to learn with a little practice. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Pete, I asked the same Question and he said, he didn’t use Glue bc he was concerned about Movement in the Wood. I don’t know, My Dad would kick my ass if I didn’t use Wood Glue building this. Great Work Though !
That has been addressed above - glue will interfere with wood movement.... as in panel doors, and why panels are not glued in. Doesn't anyone read comments before making needless, repetitive comments?
Actually used this to make my cellardoor under the stairs. Looks awesome. I also ordered some classic style handle and hangers, really happy with this 👍
Great video. This is exactly what I want for my garage. The house is old and the 70s style garage door just never looked right but now it's toast so we have a good excuse to make something that looks better. We only keep our canoe and lawnmower in there so these doors are perfect. 👍
A frame, ledged and braced door normally has the braces running in the same direction, the lower ends on the hanging stile. The idea is to stop the other side from dropping.
He explained the process of the old school nailing process but missed the chance to say this is where the saying "dead as a door nail" comes from. This process made the nail impossible to re-use thus the saying. Nails used to be much more valuable so killing them actually meant something way back when.
Thanks for posting this. I'm about to make a similar door for my shed. I'm curious why you trimmed the ends off of the ship lap boards. Wouldn't leaving them on give the door a bit more strength/rigidity?
Fun fact: the term "dead as a door nail" comes from what he is referencing with the rod iron nails. It was more common to reuse nails back in the day, but due to the bending of the nail once it went through, that nail was now "dead" in the sense that you can't reuse the nail anymore
Interesting. I repurpose old barn nails. Some I find are bent but I often straighten them or snip them short and hammer them into a smaller nail. But they're mostly used for art framing, not necessarily structural.
Jay Stachowiak 🙄.... well that may be the case ( it’s not) but it’s actually being used in that instance more as a descriptive noun. Surely you know, that blacksmiths would take a square rod of iron and fashion the nails out of the square iron rod. So I suppose that “iron rod nails” would be a more appropriate term for what I was saying. Now with that being said, “wrought iron” is most definitely a thing. “Wrought” is past and past participle tense word for “work”. So if we’re talking about wrought iron, then we would be talking about a metal that was beaten into shape with a hammer, or metal that was worked into shape. Checkout Merriam-Webster’s definition entry of “wrought”. Took me like 2 seconds to find that “wrought Iron” is for sure a thing, granted it is not any particular “kind” of iron, but a term for any kind of iron that was worked into its shape by hand hammering the metal.
Oh that's priceless! Haha I get it now! You're "Mr. Malarkey " because you are completely full of CRAP!! HAHAHAHA I feel like I'm the victim of some advance level trolling, and that's awesome!
Hi Rob,I needed to build a door like asap and came across your channel and like how you explain,simplify and break down the basic's in a brief to the point kinda way.You did all that in 4:40 Great job A Concord Carpenter, Are Ya Reds Soxz Nation? Your new Subscriba.Thanks fa sharon.
This is excellent. I was looking for a rustic type door for my daughters apartment, inexpensive and very straight forward to put together. I really like this, it gave me some great ideas. Nicely done.
Great video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you thought about - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate at very last got astronomical success with it.?
I need a couple of doors like this. Weighing it up on cost, it might be cheaper to buy the doors rather than loose timber. I've made doors in the past though out of 4 by 1 sawn treated. They can slightly bow, may have been better a little bit wider though about 150/200mm. Thanks for the video
True - he never showed how he ended up with ship lap wood. Buying that is expensive. Buy regular rough sawn and cut your own ship lap. He should have shown how to do that and how he screwed it in. I built mine and its a bit tricky getting the thickness correct as not all barn door slide hardware will accommodate doors thicker than 1.25 inches. Plus buying the correct door hardware length should be shown. A 6 foot slide will not accommodate a 36 inch door opening as the door needs to be made wider to properly cover the gap caused by the door extending out from the wall. Then because the door is wider you can't put the hangers on the door per instructions. Finding a 6.5 ft slide solves this problem.
Thanks for your video! Looks really nice and simple. I notice you lay the planks against each other. Will this not cause problems when the wood is expanding during summertime?
Hi Concord Carpenter! I really like your video and the way you give the advices for the project. I definatelly learnt something new! They are really helpful for me and my demanding client and I am really thankful for that! Also during my research on the internet, I found a lot of useful information on the Woodworkinster page (I think that's the name) and everything with my project turned out great and the client was really satisfied and I earned a good money! ;-) I hope that this coment will helpful for someone, regards!
I have a door just like this but rot has set into some parts. Is it possible to dismantle this door type safely, replace a few batons and boards and reassemble again. Or would you need to create a whole new door from scratch with fresh wood?
@@ConcordCarpenter it has a thick outside frame with thinner, slightly shorter boards tightly packed inside the frame. Same design as the one in the video only with a seperate outside frame instead of a double boarded frame.
Thank u so much for this video :) were making our outdoor potty and needed a simple beautiful door.... this is great. thinking of other places on the homestead we can use these :)
Did you use any wood glue to attach the battens to the boards? Door looks great, I want to build a new backyard garden shed and I think this style would work nicely. Thank you for sharing.
Well made video. My problem with the gate is that the braces should be the same way, starting at the lower corners at the hinged side and rising from that point. The way you have the braces is the way mass produced gates are made so that less stock is required in store, they can be hung either side but not the professional way.
My door will be dutch. After building the full door, can I cross cut through the central horizontal batten? My proportions top to bottom will be more typical of a dutch door.
Jim Hauschultz yes you can, I've done it by leaving the door longer and then routing two opposing rabbits after cutting the Dutch door. This allows the door (when closed) to stay together better. You'll still need a slide bolt to lock it in.
Excellent video. Thank You! Can you seal shiplap boards to make them weatherproof? Or will they warp? Bought some for my shed and wondering if I should stain/seal it the boards first
is this suitable as outdoor gates? I need to make 2 x 5ft wide 6ft tall gates for a 10ft opening. Any advise on type of softwood to use in the application? Imdomplan to treat them with a fence cafe type product. thanks
Anyone want to see what he's talking about with the wrought iron nails check out Secrets Of The Castle. It's a brief look at the Guedelon Castle project with a lot of information on what the lives of laborers of the period would have been like.
Which way do the diagonals go relative to the hinge placement? Are the hinges on the side where the diagonals come together near the midpoint of the door?
John Gallon John you were 100% correct regarding structural support. this was a design decision from the client - they were aware of the diagonal support function but decided they wanted this look
Rob, I am needing to build a replacement back door for our cabin in Oregon. We are leaning towards a dutch door. As it will be an exterior door any tips? What about adding insulation? As an added note, we will be moving into the cabin full time next year. Thanks!
Kind of like what I was thinking. There was an article in Fine Homebuilding a year or two (??) back where that was done. Going to need to review the article. Fortunately the company noted in the article is only about 25 minutes away from me. Would be an interesting build...will need to include a dog door as well for our two Brittany Spaniels.
haha and we really appreciate the video! we're trying to knock out eight of these suckers this Saturday. did you just just conventional hinges, heavy guage, hidden? i like the look of the door well enough not to muck it up with fancy hardware.
The braces on the door should go both in one direction. If the door is hung on the left, the braces go from the bottom left hand upwards to the clashing side to stop the door sagging. If the door is hung on the right the brace goes from the bottom right hand side to stop sagging. Braces should never alternate .It is making a triangular structure that makes the door firm.
No worries at all! My Shed Plans brings me up to speed with professional tips and tricks used by the pros [Go Here=> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. It really let me learn how to handle carpenter equipment, follow the right safety rules, and how to do your projects professionally so that they will look good and last!
But HOW do you mark the diagonals and cut them to fit so tightly? I've never seen anyone explain Exactly how that part is done, and never been truly happy with my results when I've made this type of door
using a speed square is a must. You can use math and angles to figure it out but the simple way is with a speed square and a pencil. In this instance you would put in your cross pieces. then lay your diagonal over top of the cross piece where you want it. mark with your pencil where the diagonal overlaps the edge of the horizontal piece on the outside, then do the inside. Then do the same thing for the inside and outside overlap of the vertical. Use your speed square to connect the marks and make a straight line. cut the two lines and your wood should be able to fit perfectly. do this on the top and bottom of the diagonal piece. If you have a friend who has worked construction he/she can easily show you better ways of doing this.
Hows like like working outside all day? What happens if you did a mistake with your work?Like do you adjust it or restart? Why have you chose carpentry as your career? Hi sir would you please a answer a questions for my project. plz and thank you
Greetings from Engerland,lol. Does it matter which side of the door you put the screws through? And would it be ok to have them protruding,then trim them flush with a angle grinder? Thanks.
animal79thecat It's best to secure the battens to the door. I like NOT having fasteners show on the finished side. Long screws? - sure but you may damage or mar the wood with the grinder.
9 years later and this is still great info. Used this today to make an external door. Great info, simple and easy. Not a difficult job but a few really helpful pointers before I started!
A joy to watch your videos.
Your workshop makes a great backdrop in the videos as well.
Always inspiring and I admire your imagination to keep coming up with great designs.
Well done.
One Handed Maker - Australia
Well done door! Thanks for showing. It's perfect for the garage.
Not only was this video informative it was fun to watch, not only only did I learn something i enjoyed doing it. Thanks Big Time ! Mark Collins
john mark collins thx bro
john mark collins send us a pic of the door you build on our Facebook page
Great workmanship this is truly not only a dying art but a under appreciated one.
Thanks for the instructional clip, we are building the barn doors to suit the new door frames, internal and external.
Next up will be to replace the window frames using your old school builds.
Love this guys videos. Very thorough & you can tell he takes pride in his work. Who better to learn from?!
Thanks
Guys,
Did you know we have a FREE weekly newsletter?
www.aconcordcarpenter.com/subscribe
Each week we’ll try to share topics from each of our sites along with our current giveaways and special offers from our advertisers. We’d love to hear feedback on this new format and hope you’ll enjoy this more robust publication. As always we appreciate your continued support.
The newsletter is sent out once a week and is guaranteed to be chock full of useful remodeling and home improvement tips, tricks, tool news, tool reviews and home improvement advice.
Good common sense stuff. I built almost all my interior doors for my house in 2000. Great channel.
thanks!
Excellent video. I was too lazy to do it your way so I just used a piece of T111 siding under the battens. It doesn't look quite as good as yours but it was easier and saved a lot of time. One downside though - T111 soaks up a lot of paint.
Great explanation ! I am planning to build a door similar to this for a cold storage room I am putting in my basement . As the dead space below the stairs is being used the door is not a standard size so building my own was the best option !
Thank you Ryan for releasing a great product as this [ Check Details Here?> *WoodBlueprints. Com* ]. Most of the plans I have imagined in my mind are put down on your woodworking plans. This is more like a genius job. I love it!?
awesome dude - We have a quasi- A-frame cabin type home with cedar trim and ceiling. The builders have all rough side out and I've laced my arms and shoulders a few times with about 30 micro sized splinters, lol. It also is a little "cheesey' looking to me so I started pulling the trim off and flipping (where I can) around to the smooth side BUT oiling down and then hitting a light coat of Provincial stain which looks amazing. My hangup was what to do with the interior doors. They are incredibly cheap fiber board of some sort so was looking for how to actually build a cabin-type door with cedar where I could also apply the oil and provincial stain. You just solved this for me. THANKS FOR YOUR PAGE!!
thanks for the comment
Quick tip for anyone building this, make sure BOTH diagonal braces have the low end on the hinge side other wise it will twist through wet and dry weather.
I needed a door for my mini horse shelter. I used 2x3s and 6' pickets. Using my router, I set groves into the 2x3 frame, holding the pickets. Came out nice and is fairly light. Not as solid as yours, but for what it is being used for, it's good. I'm not really a wood worker but it's super easy. If anyone wants a nice door but you are scared to try it, the design in this video is definitely something that you can do with simple tools.
Great video. Thanks for keeping it short and to the point.
No problem!
Very well explained. I choose to work with rough sawn boards from sawmill about 15 miles away . Guess I like the atmosphere of the mill and have waited to have boards cut. Nobody is in a rush and I like full dimensional lumber. Anyways this is a great video for me utilize while building a door for my recently built wood shed .
Sounds great!
That’s a great looking door, simple yet elegant (for a shed/garage or outbuilding) and its very well made.
Importantly, no glue was used in the making of that door. Also, wrought iron nails are still available if you want to go totally old school on this door and cinch with nails. It's a simple technique and easy to learn with a little practice. Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Pete, I asked the same Question and he said, he didn’t use Glue bc he was concerned about Movement in the Wood.
I don’t know, My Dad would kick my ass if I didn’t use Wood Glue building this.
Great Work Though !
Great quick work there Rob. like to add that some glue or adhesive wouldnt hurt too.
That has been addressed above - glue will interfere with wood movement.... as in panel doors, and why panels are not glued in.
Doesn't anyone read comments before making needless, repetitive comments?
Actually used this to make my cellardoor under the stairs. Looks awesome. I also ordered some classic style handle and hangers, really happy with this 👍
I know this is an older video - but thanks for taking the time to share this. Very cool and very helpful.
We love the board and batten look. We use it in a lot of our outdoor projects.
Great video! Can I build the same way using horizontal boards?
Great video. This is exactly what I want for my garage. The house is old and the 70s style garage door just never looked right but now it's toast so we have a good excuse to make something that looks better. We only keep our canoe and lawnmower in there so these doors are perfect. 👍
How did your project go
A frame, ledged and braced door normally has the braces running in the same direction, the lower ends on the hanging stile. The idea is to stop the other side from dropping.
Thanks for that - appreciated. We build what was on the architecture plans, but I appreciate the correction
Thank you. Is the direction of the diagonals is important?
If it’s on hinges - yea
I watched many video and finally this one was the more explicit and easy to understand .great job.
konrad hades thx
wen
He explained the process of the old school nailing process but missed the chance to say this is where the saying "dead as a door nail" comes from. This process made the nail impossible to re-use thus the saying. Nails used to be much more valuable so killing them actually meant something way back when.
Olá Rob, gostei da porta, ficou bem feita, parabéns, viva os carpenteiros...
Gracias senor
Great door!!!, You should have reply to Angelo with "Obrigado" which is Thank you in Portuguese
Thanks for posting this. I'm about to make a similar door for my shed. I'm curious why you trimmed the ends off of the ship lap boards. Wouldn't leaving them on give the door a bit more strength/rigidity?
+Martin Burke - ah - please disregard - I see that you left them on for the joins.
I trimmed min but only the ones on the outer edges.
hows the door? I wanna make two bigger versions of these for a carport to turn it into a garage?
Fun fact: the term "dead as a door nail" comes from what he is referencing with the rod iron nails. It was more common to reuse nails back in the day, but due to the bending of the nail once it went through, that nail was now "dead" in the sense that you can't reuse the nail anymore
Interesting. I repurpose old barn nails. Some I find are bent but I often straighten them or snip them short and hammer them into a smaller nail. But they're mostly used for art framing, not necessarily structural.
I've looked up the etymology before, but yours is the best and most succinct explanation ever! Thx!
Fun fact :
The term "rod iron" is derived from the term "wrought iron" and is actually not even a thing.
Jay Stachowiak 🙄.... well that may be the case ( it’s not) but it’s actually being used in that instance more as a descriptive noun. Surely you know, that blacksmiths would take a square rod of iron and fashion the nails out of the square iron rod. So I suppose that “iron rod nails” would be a more appropriate term for what I was saying.
Now with that being said, “wrought iron” is most definitely a thing. “Wrought” is past and past participle tense word for “work”. So if we’re talking about wrought iron, then we would be talking about a metal that was beaten into shape with a hammer, or metal that was worked into shape. Checkout Merriam-Webster’s definition entry of “wrought”.
Took me like 2 seconds to find that “wrought Iron” is for sure a thing, granted it is not any particular “kind” of iron, but a term for any kind of iron that was worked into its shape by hand hammering the metal.
Oh that's priceless! Haha I get it now! You're "Mr. Malarkey " because you are completely full of CRAP!! HAHAHAHA
I feel like I'm the victim of some advance level trolling, and that's awesome!
Hi Rob,I needed to build a door like asap and came across your channel and like how you explain,simplify and break down the basic's in a brief to the point kinda way.You did all that in 4:40 Great job A Concord Carpenter, Are Ya Reds Soxz Nation? Your new Subscriba.Thanks fa sharon.
Thanks - more of a Patriots fan!! Good luck on the project
This is excellent. I was looking for a rustic type door for my daughters apartment, inexpensive and very straight forward to put together. I really like this, it gave me some great ideas. Nicely done.
Good, clearly explained video with impeccable grammar :) . Thanks.
Great video content! Apologies for butting in, I would appreciate your opinion. Have you thought about - *WoodBlueprints. Com* It is an awesome exclusive guide for building better sheds and woodworking without the normal expense. Ive heard some extraordinary things about it and my mate at very last got astronomical success with it.?
@@carmenwest2413 Thanks, only just seen your comment.
I need a couple of doors like this. Weighing it up on cost, it might be cheaper to buy the doors rather than loose timber. I've made doors in the past though out of 4 by 1 sawn treated. They can slightly bow, may have been better a little bit wider though about 150/200mm.
Thanks for the video
Right on - go for it
I thought this video was going to be an actual video on someone building the door and showing you the steps not someone just explaining it. Hmmmm
watch the whole video
I also thought I was going to watch someone do it step by step. I will keep looking.
True - he never showed how he ended up with ship lap wood. Buying that is expensive. Buy regular rough sawn and cut your own ship lap. He should have shown how to do that and how he screwed it in. I built mine and its a bit tricky getting the thickness correct as not all barn door slide hardware will accommodate doors thicker than 1.25 inches. Plus buying the correct door hardware length should be shown. A 6 foot slide will not accommodate a 36 inch door opening as the door needs to be made wider to properly cover the gap caused by the door extending out from the wall. Then because the door is wider you can't put the hangers on the door per instructions. Finding a 6.5 ft slide solves this problem.
Get some wood and some screws cut that shit, drill some holes screw that shit! Viola! Door! 🚪
Everything we need to know he covers.
Thanks for your video! Looks really nice and simple. I notice you lay the planks against each other. Will this not cause problems when the wood is expanding during summertime?
Hi Concord Carpenter! I really like your video and the way you give the advices for the project. I definatelly learnt something new! They are really helpful for me and my demanding client and I am really thankful for that! Also during my research on the internet, I found a lot of useful information on the Woodworkinster page (I think that's the name) and everything with my project turned out great and the client was really satisfied and I earned a good money! ;-) I hope that this coment will helpful for someone, regards!
Yeah i have learnt a lot from this video as well and i will check Woodworkinster page for sure!
looks great thanks. I'm looking to build my own but need some inspiration and nice ideas. .
Great design. What would it take to make a split door out of this for a barn stall. Thanks
peter lantagne not hard at all maybe Teutonic horizontal board at the slit, have them mate with a ship lap and you'll need an extra hinge
I have a door just like this but rot has set into some parts. Is it possible to dismantle this door type safely, replace a few batons and boards and reassemble again. Or would you need to create a whole new door from scratch with fresh wood?
Gary Somebody depends on the door construction
@@ConcordCarpenter it has a thick outside frame with thinner, slightly shorter boards tightly packed inside the frame. Same design as the one in the video only with a seperate outside frame instead of a double boarded frame.
@@garymullan646 you can certainly try
That's great info, even if it is not actually board and batten. You need to have actual battens to be board and batten.
Just what the dog house needed!!! Thanks. Couldn't have wished for a better solution.
Awesome job! Will you be doing another video on this topic soon?
Best Access Doors maybe, were always looking for good content ideas
Best Access Doors www.aconcordcarpenter.com/how-to-build-a-board-and-batten-door.html
Thank u so much for this video :) were making our outdoor potty and needed a simple beautiful door.... this is great. thinking of other places on the homestead we can use these :)
Did you use any wood glue to attach the battens to the boards? Door looks great, I want to build a new backyard garden shed and I think this style would work nicely. Thank you for sharing.
+Bob Wood No glue at all. The fasteners, diagonal bracing and ship lap do the work for you.
Well made video. My problem with the gate is that the braces should be the same way, starting at the lower corners at the hinged side and rising from that point. The way you have the braces is the way mass produced gates are made so that less stock is required in store, they can be hung either side but not the professional way.
John Gallon Great point, thank you for the feedback
im a decade late 😂....but great idea and craftsmanship on the door. exactly what I needed!
Great 👍 idea. Just what I needed.
My door will be dutch. After building the full door, can I cross cut through the central horizontal batten? My proportions top to bottom will be more typical of a dutch door.
+Jim Hauschultz yes but better to use a wider central board
+A Concord Carpenter I didn't expect a reply today, maybe not until October. Thanks. Good common sense seems like a doh slap.
+Jim Hauschultz enjoy your build!
Jim Hauschultz yes you can, I've done it by leaving the door longer and then routing two opposing rabbits after cutting the Dutch door. This allows the door (when closed) to stay together better. You'll still need a slide bolt to lock it in.
Would have been nice if you would have explained how to figure the diagonal brace. I have no idea how to determine what length and angles you used.
Excellent video. Thank You! Can you seal shiplap boards to make them weatherproof? Or will they warp? Bought some for my shed and wondering if I should stain/seal it the boards first
WeatherNut27 you certainly can, takes some time but worth it, these were interior doors
What would prevent shiplap board from shrinking opened in winter if not glued?
garry weinberg the ship lap should provide enough
Coverage if wood shrinks in winter
Did you sand down the shiplap before you put the bracing down or did you leave it rough?
Jason H no, leave it rough
Which way do you hang it? Which direction should the angled bracing go?
www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwits87cyMrcAhXLtlkKHY7eBn8QjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.fix.com%2Fblog%2Fwooden-gates-structure-and-design%2F&psig=AOvVaw0N8dknW0jZ9FZtThfXXN4t&ust=1533168699078625
New to barn door makin' and researching as much as possible before diving in, just wondering why you didn't uses Pocket Holes? Is it necessary?
I am pretty sure you can still buy e-book with all details you need on woodprix instructions.
Thanks Dennis. These plans are fantastic
is this suitable as outdoor gates? I need to make 2 x 5ft wide 6ft tall gates for a 10ft opening. Any advise on type of softwood to use in the application? Imdomplan to treat them with a fence cafe type product. thanks
Yes
Cheers Rob another good Video
my slding barn door is uneven on the right side (it slopes down on the right side)what's the easiest way to level it without drilling new holes?
Anyone want to see what he's talking about with the wrought iron nails check out Secrets Of The Castle. It's a brief look at the Guedelon Castle project with a lot of information on what the lives of laborers of the period would have been like.
Which way do the diagonals go relative to the hinge placement? Are the hinges on the side where the diagonals come together near the midpoint of the door?
the diagonals should both come down to the hinge side of the door, more strength and less sagging with time
They should go from the hinge side up! No other way
Any issue with bowing or cupping due to wood movement?
Why the two braces in different directions? Only one of them will work depending which side you hang the door, it just looks wrong.
John Gallon John you were 100% correct regarding structural support. this was a design decision from the client - they were aware of the diagonal support function but decided they wanted this look
Rob, I am needing to build a replacement back door for our cabin in Oregon. We are leaning towards a dutch door. As it will be an exterior door any tips? What about adding insulation? As an added note, we will be moving into the cabin full time next year. Thanks!
Hmmm never done an insulated door but what about sandwiching 1" of rigid insulation and foaming any gaps?
Kind of like what I was thinking. There was an article in Fine Homebuilding a year or two (??) back where that was done. Going to need to review the article. Fortunately the company noted in the article is only about 25 minutes away from me. Would be an interesting build...will need to include a dog door as well for our two Brittany Spaniels.
Stanley Pearse very cool build.... write it up for us?
How much wider than the door opening do u make the door? Thanks
Depends on the boards, and how you’d like the layout to look. Could be an inch or 10 inches
@@ConcordCarpenter ok yes, but lets say a 36 inch opening to properly cover the opening a 38 inch would do it nicely
Can a door knob be installed on this type of door?
Depends on the door knob and the depth of the door
@@ConcordCarpenter That makes sense, thanks!
For an indoor door, I'd drive the screws a little deeper and fill the screw holes with a plug from the same wood or from a contrasting wood.
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what kind of wood did you use to build this door?
+Alex Apyan Rough sawn pine - ship-lapped
+A Concord Carpenter plz comment back your good
please do another vid on installing with hinges?
Penny Rhomberg this job was awhile ago
haha and we really appreciate the video! we're trying to knock out eight of these suckers this Saturday. did you just just conventional hinges, heavy guage, hidden? i like the look of the door well enough not to muck it up with fancy hardware.
Penny Rhomberg we used long barn strap hinges
thanks!
*pretending to know what that is and will google* :-)
Can the screws drill from the back side of the door?
What is the size of one board, to search it in lowes or home depot?
I believe these boards were one 1 X6 and 1X8 you’re better off looking at a lumberyard or a lumber mill. I doubt Home Depot will carry it.
The braces on the door should go both in one direction. If the door is hung on the left, the braces go from the bottom left hand upwards to the clashing side to stop the door sagging. If the door is hung on the right the brace goes from the bottom right hand side to stop sagging. Braces should never alternate .It is making a triangular structure that makes the door firm.
Thanks for that - appreciated. We build what was on the plans, but I appreciate the correction
Did you use any pva glue ??
plan to make two bigger versions of these for a carport to turn it into a garage
Great video and lovely work. What thickness were the boards you used? Also how long would you leave for drying if the wood was freshly cut?
maria maguire 3/4” each, probably 3 months. Sticker them, keep dry and check with moisture meter
When building a door like this, does the wood movement cause issues?
It can, but didn't on this door. Nothing is glued and the individual. boards will move independently
William Wilson tongue and groove is a better, stronger door
I figure you would want to make the center panels float in a slot so any expansion and contraction won't cause door to warp.
Does it matter on which side to place the hinges?
Found it...jam side, diagonal ends down (up).
What side of the door do the hinges go on in relationship to the cross bracing?
This is perfect for my shed, thank you:)
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Thanks for sharing Rob! Great video.
Built one for a friend but it warped what caused it. An how do I fix it.?
Richard Ferris high moisture, not opposing growth rings. You try a turnbuckle and cable
But HOW do you mark the diagonals and cut them to fit so tightly? I've never seen anyone explain Exactly how that part is done, and never been truly happy with my results when I've made this type of door
using a speed square is a must. You can use math and angles to figure it out but the simple way is with a speed square and a pencil. In this instance you would put in your cross pieces. then lay your diagonal over top of the cross piece where you want it. mark with your pencil where the diagonal overlaps the edge of the horizontal piece on the outside, then do the inside. Then do the same thing for the inside and outside overlap of the vertical. Use your speed square to connect the marks and make a straight line. cut the two lines and your wood should be able to fit perfectly. do this on the top and bottom of the diagonal piece. If you have a friend who has worked construction he/she can easily show you better ways of doing this.
Hows like like working outside all day?
What happens if you did a mistake with your work?Like do you adjust it or restart?
Why have you chose carpentry as your career? Hi sir would you please a answer a questions for my project. plz and thank you
Where is the actual video in building the door?
Thanks Rob,
Great, simple explanation - thumbs up :-)
The door looks good! Beautiful draftsman's!
Greetings from Engerland,lol.
Does it matter which side of the door you put the screws through?
And would it be ok to have them protruding,then trim them flush with a angle grinder?
Thanks.
animal79thecat It's best to secure the battens to the door. I like NOT having fasteners show on the finished side. Long screws? - sure but you may damage or mar the wood with the grinder.
Where is that video???
Would this style door be ok on an outside yard?
of course, just make sure that the type of wood is treated , or marine board. marine board is
expensive [ marine board = plywood ]
you got the greasy eye man haha your channel is great very informative like your head to heads looking to invest in some new tools
popwar 122 not sure what that means
Helpful video. Thanks. Best wishes
What about the door warping? What helps prevent that?
cormonde22 using dry, acclimated wood.
How do you put locks and knob on
This particular door has surface mounted latches, old-school style
Did you use wood glue on door?
Very good video.
Thank you dude
Thanks for your video.
You are welcome
but how did you mark the cuts exactly...whole reason i watched this video and the hard part for me was left out. :(
Hold the board in lace ad mark wit a utility knife or sharp pencil