Came here to learn about the Camo paint for my AR15... left wanting to learn about whatever these tabletop minions are so I can just spray paint stuff. :D
Chemistry major here, and just getting started into 40k (decided on Orks -- WAAAGH!!!!). Paint is basically a pigment suspended in a medium -- for our purposes, an acrylic medium. Plastics and paint media are basically polymers (long chains of hydrocarbons). In order to bond media with plastic, you'd have to either add a catalyst, engineer the media to be either polar or nonpolar (depending on type of plastic), or both. Thanks for the info, and for doing this channel -- you've helped me a lot!!!
Two years later and I am still emailing this video to people, especially when building out terrain parts. Easy to color match and great protection. I have my Battlezones Deadzone terrain primed and colored in this.
The fact that you have a wealth of experience in the hobby means reviews from you mean a lot ! Could you review storing models ? Or carry cases ? Love the channel ! :)
+Andrew Page I only seem to own Battle Foam products, so I don't know that that's a proper review or not. I've never really tried any of the other brands out there. I'd like to try KR Multicase and Table War, but I haven't. Those three seem to be the big players in the storage market. I hope that helped a little. Thanks for watching!
I have seen this in the stores and I always wondered if it would work on models but after seeing your review I will pick some up. I have several figures and tank models that need primed and this sounds like a good choice. Thanks for the review!
As of today (8/15/18), most of these colors are now listed at $12+ online. I don't know if it's lack of stock or what, but if you find them in your local stores for their original, normal price I'd snap them up while you can.
I was interested in playing salamanders and am still new to the hobby, did you try this Primer with them and if so what did you use? I was thinking about using the olive primer and then layering with other greens...what did you do?
i used rust olium camo spray paint very similar I took a break and forgot to shake the can again and created a very "grainy" texture so always shake the can. Hopefully I can make it look a little snowy/frosted look on him (space wolves) so the bases will be arctic/tundra looking which hopefully will cover that up
After checking Lowes and Home Depot I went to a Sherwin Williams specific store and foun d a Krylon Grey spray primer. It was a game changer at the time. Will have to check out these Camo sprays
Found this trying to find a good 'hobby-perspective' on this most excellent primer... I've been using this stuff since it came out and have never had an issue with it. Primarily I use it for terrain now as I've moved (mostly, don't hold me to it...) to airbrush for priming miniatures, but I will certainly still bust this out for some quick jobs for mins. Great info - even if just about a decade later! HAH! -- and I just picked up five cans for a load of Necromunda Secundus ruined terrain... here we go!
Is this kind of like a vinyl dye then? I've used it for customizing game controllers and works well. Problem is it melts the plastic. The color is nearly permanent as it has seeped into the top layer of plastic. I'm primarily concerned about the melting effect. If fusion doesn't do that, I might give it a go for sure.
For a deathwatch hailing from blood angels... prime black then hit from above with the reddish camo, then go actual red? Or just prime black and go to actual red? To clarify I want the end result primarily black, of course, and a deep, dark, rich red... if that makes sense
Working my way through your catalog of videos @Tabletop Minions and this was a great one to watch through. The question that comes to my mind; paint stripping. Have you decided to strip and start over the paint scheme that uses one, or more, of these Krylon Camouflage paints? If so, what solution did you use?
This stuff is my primary primer! living in the middle of nowhere, I couldn't find any automotive primer (which I know is a bit thick, but it's textured and sticks well.) and I came across some of this. matte. black. perfect! I've not seen any of the Greens or sand colors. boonies selection isn't that great, but I have a few cans of black and brown kicking around. ;)
+Lanikin Malachite The bonus to the tans and greens is that they can act as basecoats as well as primers, if the model will work with those colors. Thanks for watching!
It just "dawned" on me last night while watching War Documentaries and earlier having been shopping for Bolt Action products that the Germans were the only guys to use camo on uniforms/cloth during WWII as far as I can tell so far, I haven't researched it heavily yet so nothing would make me happier than some "War Buff" to tell me all about it.
I don't think they were the 'only' ones, but they did seem to use camo patterns more than anyone else at the time. I noticed this when doing research into the paint jobs for my US forces for Flames of War. Thanks for watching!
I've been using Krylon Camouflage for primer for years and swear by it! I've had great success with my Space Marines and even great results with Gunpla (Gundam models),
When you were talking about shiny camouflage not working, I got an image of some poor sap in camo pleather trying his damndest to blend into the forest/underbrush and failing miserably. I have no idea why this image popped into my head but judging by that, it's going to be one of those weird days.
I'm late to the game but I'm starting to paint Warmachine for the first time and mentioned that these are good for plastics. What about metal miniatures that Privateer Press has? Anyone?
What surface type do you spray on. I have been using left over Amazon boxes and after a few sprays the cardboard particulates. What could I buy/make for large outdoor spray jobs
I typed a long reply and somehow deleted it. In a nutshell it was a big thank you for getting me back into "the hobby" and not only the hobby but .....I'm turning 39 at the end of summer (so according to your theory about us playing historical vs. 40k etc at a certain age like women with menopause or something) and I'm painting/playing BOLT ACTION (insert "yeah MOFO!" etc. here as if the world were trying to keep me from the hobby and I've overcome a major battle. No pun intent there. Love your vids, your wizened dry wit filled self. Love Sean over at BTP but I .....yeah. I love your channel. It's simple but it works. Please keep it up , Thanks again. BTW- something to blow the youglings minds- I haven't painted/played Warhammer since I was 13 or so. I also painted generic Skeleton Armies and single minis for display only. ALL MY MINIS ARE LEAD. Old I am. PS - REGARDING THIS VIDEO ITS UNCANNY I HAD JUST RECENTLY CONSIDERED THESE KRYLON CAMOS
Thank you for the great tips on using spray cans. How fine are the particles of the Camouflage paint line as compared to the other Krylon primers? I've recently used a regular Krylon primer and found it to be a bit coarse for my liking...
It's usually nice and fine. I find if a primer is too smooth (to the point of being almost glossy) then the paint doesn't stick as well. Thanks for watching!
I've had a lot of luck with using the Krylon Camo khaki for my Skitarii Rangers and Vanguard. Really good product. Probably the same stuff on the inside.
Looks like I need to at least try this on my 1/72d miniature wargaming figs. They are like the old Airfix figures and paint (so far) has refused to stay on the polypropylene plastic. Maybe this Krylon stuff is the answer to non-stick plastic surfaces. If this doesn't work, well then, I get some more paints for my white metal RPG/Wargame figs for a primer coat.
Just curious for an update on this. Apart from airbrushing on your primer have you found anything better since this video was posted?I'm having a rough time with some Angels Encarmine Death Company that I'm painting white. I used an Army Painter tan primer and even in 75 degree weather in Arizona with low humidity, it came out chalky and ruined my models. (I also took the precaution of letting the can and the models adjust to the temperature outside for 30 minutes)When painting them, even using a wet palette (Thank for that video btw) with extremely thin layers the models look passable at a distance but chalky and uneven up close. I'm looking for a new spray and luckily came across this video.
+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera I've used them both, and I prefer the Krylon, especially since it sticks to plastic so well. I just buy it at my local store, so I have no idea how much it is on Amazon.
Glad to see your back making videos, it's been a while since you put anything out. Krylon seems quite expensive here in the UK, costing about £10 a can ($16 or so). Is it still worth picking up at the increased cost? I usually use Army painter as I've found they're pretty cheap but work extremely well as a primer.
On the subject of spray primers.... I wouldn't recommend the rustoleum x2 (white) primer. I have found that my initial coats of citadel or vallejo would rub off easily on raised areas :(
OK tried this on my Sylvaneth Forest Spirit Warhost (the tan and brown to be exact) It looks and seems so far to work great. Only one problem I have so far...the really strong smell from the paint. Any suggestions for this or is it really an issue with others?
Any thoughts on the Rust-o-leum brand of camo flat paints? The Krylon is great, but it's been hard to find lately in my area. The larger stores (Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot) only have the Rustoleum camo. The Rustoleum colors are more limited, but they do have black, dark brown, kacki, and two shades of green. Luckily, I found a hardware store that carries the Krylon camo paints (for now).
+brewgeek1 I think I bought a can of the Rustoleum stuff once (I forget why) but I didn't like it as much for some reason. I think it was due to the texture. Thanks for watching!
+brewgeek1 I spent the better part of this morning looking for Krylon Camouflage paint - no dice. Although I found stores that carried the brand, they didn't have the Camo line. Strangely enough, most places had Rustoleum's version of Camouflage paint. I used and it seems to be just fine. Key is spraying in light passes. I have no other spray paint to compare it to, but for those hard pressed to find Krylon, this brand seems to be a viable substitute. NOTE: I used this over a Bones miniature.
Great video as always Atom, I hope you can give me your opinion: I'm starting a new Tau army; I'm looking for a Farsight Enclaves scheme, not-so-shiny crimson colour, and a traditional Lizardmen/Seraphon army; all the lizzies will be light blue, and I want some red, blue and green dinosaurs. I've got lots of recommendations of Krylon, especially the black ultra-flat, but I'm not sure what Krylon colours should I use for my new miniatures. I'd really like your opinion and/or suggestions about what colours use for them. Again, great video! PS.: Three thumbs up, that sounds really, really dark.
+Jim McKay I'm not sure about this particular Krylon product, but some of their other primers would not cure properly on the bones. They remained tacky, particularly their "normal" black primer. Their white primer seemed to work, as long as you apply it in light coats and allow it to dry in between successive coats. For the Bones white rubbery material, I've had great luck with the Design Master primer from Michaels craft store. It dries almost instantly. Unfortunately, it only comes in gray and the spray nozzle doesn't allow for much control like the Krylon nozzles do.
Tested the Sand color on some Bones minis and it worked great. Went on smoothly and dried quickly. However, the same spray in brown remained tacky on the rubbery furniture pieces from dungeon saga.
+Jim McKay I tried the Khaki on both the super gooey and white plastic variants of Reaper Bones and they both ended up tacky and glossy. The gooey ones, 6 pack of goblins, were the most effected and the whiter plastic one is a little less effected. The Krylon Flat White Paint + Primer seemed to work ok though. I also tried Army Painter Flat black and it isn't as tacky however it's very glossy. If you go over to Reaper's forum they recommend not adding primer at all but I just had to try anyways lol. One last thing I will mention is that i was touching the models periodically to test their tackiness so i'm not sure how much a reaction the oils on my hand would contribute to the tackiness over time.
+Galactus I just primed a few more bones models after my initial success last month. This time, several of the models remained tacky with the sand and Khaki colors, and a couple have gotten tackier over time. ARGH! That same day, I also primed a few with the Michaels Design Master gray. These are dry and perfect. That's the only primer that has never failed me on any plastics. I just wish the sprayer was more like the krylon cans.
+brewgeek1 I read about the Michaels as well but when i looked at the can i saw "acetone" just like the rest and assumed it may have the same tacky results. I guess if the Krylon Flat White Paint + Primer (same nozzle as the others) turned out ok *crosses fingers* then the Michaels may be ok as well. I'm going to try painting all of these tests, including one without primer, and see what sort of success I have.
I've always hated Krylon and been more of a Rust-oleum guy for spray paints, but that Fusion stuff does a good job with plastics. Another good paint, for priming at least is Duplicolor Sandable Primer. The latter is flat and bonds well to most surfaces. It's meant for the automotive industry but has served me well with miniatures and having RED, BLACK, WHITE and GRAY it only sets me back about $5.
+Walker White Yes, I used to use Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer before I got an airbrush or was using the Krylon Camo paints. It's also a really good primer. Thanks for watching!
An update for 2024 from someone who used this on plastic & metal models (Gripping Beast/Saga). Spray conditions for me: February (2024) in Virginia, low 50's, low humidity. Cost: $8 per can (plus tax). Local mom & pop hardware store. Performance: On plastics it is great. I have used GW products and Army Painter products before and there is no noticeable difference for me. My Saxons/Vikings got an even coverage, and the paint has bonded well to the surface - details are still crisp and sharp, too. However, the metals were.... not great. Pretty bad actually. Maybe the conditions weren't ideal, but the paint did not bond well to the surface, was very chalky, and even after drying I could remove paint with my finger (not my nail either, just running my finger over the model). For one particular model (Harald Hadrada) I had to brush the paint off with a small detailing wire brush because it was just too thick - covered up the details of the sculpt. I may be out of practice with spray cans generally, but I did expect much better if I'm being blunt. I picked up a can of Rustoleum 2X which has similar reviews so I may try the metals again with that and report back. Still, despite the setback the cost-to-performance ratio makes it a no-brainer for me, especially with plastics.
This is a real long shot considering how old the video is, but, would these be recommended for spraying up a Nerf Pulse Rifle? I see people use Rustoleum in the US but it seems this the closest we get in the UK, and it is a lot more expensive now. Cheers
@@tabletopminionshahaaaa! Thank you so very much for getting back to me, the input is very much appreciated. I think I shall flat black and olive away! Large areas covered fast and well, seems perfect to me 👍
Thanks for the great advice. Quick question: can I use testors enamel paint on miniatures? Someone on TH-cam said that they were only for models and not miniatures.
Quick question have you tired it on plastic and metal kits before, or just plastic? I am looking at some warmachine models that need to be primed. Most are just plastic, but a few are metal and one is a metal/plastic kit. Regardless great video and thank you for sharing.
ArchArturo I'm not sure but I think Citadel spray paints also have the same agent that bonds with plastic. I've used simple green and it strips right off the metal, but not off of the plastic parts on my models. That's why I was curious.
I really appreciate this video! I already have this Krylon paint, and am well-acquainted with it's "cammo" virtues... That said, I wouldn't have thought it would be all that great for the fine detail needed in mini painting... (In the past I think I remember experimenting with actual rattle can [not intended for modeling] primer with sucky results.) Ergo, my 'go to' primer since the early 80s has been Tamiya's grey "Surface Primer For Plastic and Metal," which works great, *but now sells for no less than $12 or $15 USD's per "tiny-ass can!"* Thanks to you, now I know I no longer have to suffer from *"empty wallet-related emotional scarring!"* And THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is why I frequently tune in to "Uncle Atom"-- *[[[TO MAINTAIN MENTAL STABILITY!]]]* (Bet you didn't know you were actually *saving lives,* huh U.A.?) Keep up the good work! 🖒😎
Do you know if the rust-oleum camo spray paint is any good? You can buy it at wal-mart or from amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NHVM0NE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B009ROI59I&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0CHZD2AW6Q81ERR9EGAK
I use Rustoleum military black as my primary...uh...primer. It is as close to the old Citadel matt black as I have found. Goes on thin and even, coats well, adheres well, is one third the price of Citadel's current black spraypaint.
I just did 2 speed shapes one with the Krylon and one with the rustoleom. The krylon has a much more even look to it, and a better color in my opinion. Krylon is definitely the better choice when it comes to these flat camo colors.
Fabian Siemon I'm actually about to prime a converted Reaper Bones miniature as part of my first This is Not a Test (from World's End Publishing) warband. I'll let you guys know how it goes, but I suspect it should work really well. Thanks for watching!
tabletopminions It is my understanding that the Bones material reacts badly to the propellants used in spray cans so be sure to test it out on minis you wouldn't mind ruining. Others that have used spray cans to prime Bones have reported that the mini stays tacky and won't dry. The best primer for Bones that I have found is Vallejo Surface Primer, brushed or airbrushed on.
+James Wright The Primer from Micheals (Design Master) works very well with Bones plastic. The primer dries almost instantly. The only problem is that it only comes in gray and the spray nozzle is hard to control. Sprays out like a plume, but it works.
Man I'm sorry if I seem dickish, I look forward to your shows and appreciate your lessons. I found them at ace and they carry them regularly but He and Lowes no longer will carry krylon. Damn taggers!
Cloverleaf Studios Good eyes. I have a whole bunch of the old Blackbird Designs shirts. AH-64, A-10, F-117, and at least two or three more I can't think of off the top of my head. Thanks for watching!
This just in, be super careful as this stuff seems much more particular about the environment in which you use it than other paints. I did a Nephilim Jetfighter and it dried like lizard skin, it was cold out and I was in a cold shed. The GW primer and the Army Painter primers both dried flat as expected and of the three only the Krylon failed. Not to say it isn't good paint, but it is finnicky about where you apply it, more so than Army Painter and GW if my experience is anything to go by.
+JohnnyH1982 I'll keep an eye out, but I've never had an issue. I sprayed some yesterday, in fact, under less than ideal conditions (under 50 degrees F) and it seems to have worked fine. However, I know that rattlecans (in general) can be finicky. Thanks for watching!
I might try using this on those cheap large skeletons and cavemen toys or some of the board game minis that stubbornly refuse to be primed with anything. Everything else I threw at those minis has flaked off.
+Blandco You might try cleaning the models with dish soap, too. There could be a mold release agent on them which the paint won't stick to. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions I tried cleaning and scrubbing them. I tried soaking them for a week in soapy water. my last attempt was leaving them in green stuff for a month then in water. But those dang Timee figures won't take any type of primer including dullcoate, Krylon, or even different types of primer that are used on patio furniture. Everytime the paint just chips right off them. I am starting to think they somehow infused the plastic itself with mold release agent.
+Blandco Weird. Maybe they're cursed. Try the Krylon Fusion stuff and see if that helps. If it doesn't, it's best to bury them at a crossroads on a moonless night and call it finished. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions Thanks for the great videos! I will try to seal their evil away somehow. For now they are a reminder that trying to use the cheapest minis is a recipe for disaster and wasting time that could have been spent painting miniatures that actually take paint. (Like the D&D board game minis I just did a video on)
2 shades of green you say? Thank you so much, I was not looking forward to spending 18 bucks on a can of death guard green from GW! Uncle Atom with the assist to Grandpa Nurgle!
+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera Does GW make an olive drab primer (good for Imperial Guard vehicles) or a bone colored primer (good for skeletons and Tyranids)? I honestly don't know as we don't have a GW store anywhere near me.
Came here to learn about the Camo paint for my AR15... left wanting to learn about whatever these tabletop minions are so I can just spray paint stuff. :D
YuanMizzle Do some TH-cam searches for 'tabletop wargaming' or 'miniatures games' and have fun. Thanks for watching!
Yuanmei, that's awesomely funny! I camouflaged my AR and I collect and paint miniatures too, good stuff, hope you find your happy place.
Chemistry major here, and just getting started into 40k (decided on Orks -- WAAAGH!!!!). Paint is basically a pigment suspended in a medium -- for our purposes, an acrylic medium. Plastics and paint media are basically polymers (long chains of hydrocarbons). In order to bond media with plastic, you'd have to either add a catalyst, engineer the media to be either polar or nonpolar (depending on type of plastic), or both. Thanks for the info, and for doing this channel -- you've helped me a lot!!!
Two years later and I am still emailing this video to people, especially when building out terrain parts. Easy to color match and great protection. I have my Battlezones Deadzone terrain primed and colored in this.
It's perfect for that stuff. Thanks for watching!
I just found this channel. This guy is interesting to listen to and has lots of relevant things to say. Thanks for providing the content friend!
Thanks for your kind words, and thanks for watching!
The fact that you have a wealth of experience in the hobby means reviews from you mean a lot ! Could you review storing models ? Or carry cases ?
Love the channel ! :)
+Andrew Page you also made me get a wet pallette and i love it !
+Andrew Page I only seem to own Battle Foam products, so I don't know that that's a proper review or not. I've never really tried any of the other brands out there. I'd like to try KR Multicase and Table War, but I haven't. Those three seem to be the big players in the storage market. I hope that helped a little. Thanks for watching!
found some at ace, the expensive place.
I have seen this in the stores and I always wondered if it would work on models but after seeing your review I will pick some up. I have several figures and tank models that need primed and this sounds like a good choice. Thanks for the review!
I love this stuff. I still use it today. Thanks for watching!
As of today (8/15/18), most of these colors are now listed at $12+ online. I don't know if it's lack of stock or what, but if you find them in your local stores for their original, normal price I'd snap them up while you can.
Thanks for this! I've been struggling trying to figure out which primer to get, and this makes my life so much easier!
Sanguinius will be proud.
I play salamanders and i have had an impossible time finding a good rattle can that isnt gloss green. That green looks amazing
I was interested in playing salamanders and am still new to the hobby, did you try this Primer with them and if so what did you use? I was thinking about using the olive primer and then layering with other greens...what did you do?
Love this stuff! Got me through 3 Bolt Action armies!
i used rust olium camo spray paint very similar I took a break and forgot to shake the can again and created a very "grainy" texture so always shake the can. Hopefully I can make it look a little snowy/frosted look on him (space wolves) so the bases will be arctic/tundra looking which hopefully will cover that up
+Jacob Paulsen Good advice; ALWAYS shake your rattlecans really, really well. I helps so much. Thanks for watching!
I find the rusto camo colors are extremely powdery. I have come to appreciate the krylon much better
Excellent review. Used the khaki on my imperial guard, tau and tyranids as a base for years. Always worked great.
After checking Lowes and Home Depot I went to a Sherwin Williams specific store and foun d a Krylon Grey spray primer. It was a game changer at the time. Will have to check out these Camo sprays
Just stripped about 50 space Marines and this went on great thanks.
Will it be weird to substitute brown? store has no black.
Found this trying to find a good 'hobby-perspective' on this most excellent primer...
I've been using this stuff since it came out and have never had an issue with it. Primarily I use it for terrain now as I've moved (mostly, don't hold me to it...) to airbrush for priming miniatures, but I will certainly still bust this out for some quick jobs for mins. Great info - even if just about a decade later! HAH! -- and I just picked up five cans for a load of Necromunda Secundus ruined terrain... here we go!
Still some of my favorite rattlecans. Thanks for watching!
Is this kind of like a vinyl dye then? I've used it for customizing game controllers and works well. Problem is it melts the plastic. The color is nearly permanent as it has seeped into the top layer of plastic. I'm primarily concerned about the melting effect. If fusion doesn't do that, I might give it a go for sure.
For a deathwatch hailing from blood angels... prime black then hit from above with the reddish camo, then go actual red? Or just prime black and go to actual red? To clarify I want the end result primarily black, of course, and a deep, dark, rich red... if that makes sense
I've been using it for a while now and I have to say you are 100% correct with this review. You can't beat the price either.
That dark green color would make a great Death Forest green alternative.
I agree. Thanks for watching!
What would be the best white primer?
The Camo tan is great for base coating skeletons.
Working my way through your catalog of videos @Tabletop Minions and this was a great one to watch through. The question that comes to my mind; paint stripping. Have you decided to strip and start over the paint scheme that uses one, or more, of these Krylon Camouflage paints? If so, what solution did you use?
This stuff is my primary primer! living in the middle of nowhere, I couldn't find any automotive primer (which I know is a bit thick, but it's textured and sticks well.) and I came across some of this. matte. black. perfect! I've not seen any of the Greens or sand colors. boonies selection isn't that great, but I have a few cans of black and brown kicking around. ;)
+Lanikin Malachite The bonus to the tans and greens is that they can act as basecoats as well as primers, if the model will work with those colors. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions I just got some chimeras in. tan spray ahoy!
Any clue what paint matches the khaki color? For touch ups
It just "dawned" on me last night while watching War Documentaries and earlier having been shopping for Bolt Action products that the Germans were the only guys to use camo on uniforms/cloth during WWII as far as I can tell so far, I haven't researched it heavily yet so nothing would make me happier than some "War Buff" to tell me all about it.
I don't think they were the 'only' ones, but they did seem to use camo patterns more than anyone else at the time. I noticed this when doing research into the paint jobs for my US forces for Flames of War. Thanks for watching!
I just bought Rustoleum Campflauge by mistake. It does say its great for plastic. Has any of you every tried this? Any idea if it will work on Bones?
I've been using Krylon Camouflage for primer for years and swear by it! I've had great success with my Space Marines and even great results with Gunpla (Gundam models),
Could you tell me please what thinners could I use for this paint. I want to use it in an airbrush. Many thanks. John
Do these work well with contrast paints?
Sounds great for plastic but what about resin or metal such as Dark Sword? ... btw .. love watching your videos!
I've already been using it fir my minis. Great stuff!
Any idea on drying times? I did some more than 24 hours and they're still tacky (in Louisiana humidity)? Anything to speed up the drying time?
Humidity will certainly make it take longer to dry. Thanks for watching!
When you were talking about shiny camouflage not working, I got an image of some poor sap in camo pleather trying his damndest to blend into the forest/underbrush and failing miserably. I have no idea why this image popped into my head but judging by that, it's going to be one of those weird days.
How does it work on model cars or mobile suits?
does it stick to resin?
Any idea how well it would work on metal minis?
+Barry Glen I swear I've used it on metal minis in the past, and I don't remember there being any problem. Thanks for watching!
I have used krylon camo paints on both plastic and metal minis; excellent results. Never had issues.
have you tried the color max paint and primer by chance by krylon?
I haven't. I'll look for it next time I'm in the store. Thanks for watching!
I have Rust-Oleum spray paint will it work the same?
I'm late to the game but I'm starting to paint Warmachine for the first time and mentioned that these are good for plastics. What about metal miniatures that Privateer Press has? Anyone?
Question is this the same thing as Krylon Fusion for Plastics? Can they both be used as a primer/base color?
The standard Krylon Fusion paints generally aren't this flat, so they don't take paint quite as well, from my experience. Thanks for watching!
What surface type do you spray on. I have been using left over Amazon boxes and after a few sprays the cardboard particulates. What could I buy/make for large outdoor spray jobs
There are about 30 more fusion colors in other lines, including a fusion metallic silver color.
How would these sprays fare with the old pewter models?
Rinx i dont know about this brand specifically, but camo paint tends to stick to everything
Thanks, I'll definitely give it a shot. I hope so cause my Sisters of battle are nothing but :P
Rinx hope it works well :) if its not amazing - seal it with matte varnish
I typed a long reply and somehow deleted it. In a nutshell it was a big thank you for getting me back into "the hobby" and not only the hobby but .....I'm turning 39 at the end of summer (so according to your theory about us playing historical vs. 40k etc at a certain age like women with menopause or something) and I'm painting/playing BOLT ACTION (insert "yeah MOFO!" etc. here as if the world were trying to keep me from the hobby and I've overcome a major battle. No pun intent there. Love your vids, your wizened dry wit filled self. Love Sean over at BTP but I .....yeah. I love your channel. It's simple but it works. Please keep it up , Thanks again. BTW- something to blow the youglings minds- I haven't painted/played Warhammer since I was 13 or so. I also painted generic Skeleton Armies and single minis for display only. ALL MY MINIS ARE LEAD. Old I am.
PS - REGARDING THIS VIDEO ITS UNCANNY I HAD JUST RECENTLY CONSIDERED THESE KRYLON CAMOS
Thanks, glad to hear you're getting back into it. And those Krylon paints are spectacular. I love them. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the great tips on using spray cans. How fine are the particles of the Camouflage paint line as compared to the other Krylon primers? I've recently used a regular Krylon primer and found it to be a bit coarse for my liking...
It's usually nice and fine. I find if a primer is too smooth (to the point of being almost glossy) then the paint doesn't stick as well. Thanks for watching!
I've had a lot of luck with using the Krylon Camo khaki for my Skitarii Rangers and Vanguard. Really good product. Probably the same stuff on the inside.
Great paint . painted our schoolbus conversion
with it
+mark myers I love the stuff, really. Thanks for watching!
How well does this primer work with Reaper bones miniatures?
Looks like I need to at least try this on my 1/72d miniature wargaming figs. They are like the old Airfix figures and paint (so far) has refused to stay on the polypropylene plastic. Maybe this Krylon stuff is the answer to non-stick plastic surfaces. If this doesn't work, well then, I get some more paints for my white metal RPG/Wargame figs for a primer coat.
Great find, might try it on my future projects.
I've been using this stuff for a while. It isn't great in every situation, but it sure as heck works in most.
Matthew McDonough I agree. I'm amazed how frequently I go back to these cans in my hobby. Thanks for watching!
Just a quick question, which one would work for Salamanders?
Do they work as well on resin?
I think they do. I haven't heard anything to the negative in that regard. Thanks for watching!
Cloth paint .
Just curious for an update on this. Apart from airbrushing on your primer have you found anything better since this video was posted?I'm having a rough time with some Angels Encarmine Death Company that I'm painting white. I used an Army Painter tan primer and even in 75 degree weather in Arizona with low humidity, it came out chalky and ruined my models. (I also took the precaution of letting the can and the models adjust to the temperature outside for 30 minutes)When painting them, even using a wet palette (Thank for that video btw) with extremely thin layers the models look passable at a distance but chalky and uneven up close. I'm looking for a new spray and luckily came across this video.
+Paul Ellis These days, I mainly only use either the Krylon Camo or airbrush primer. I haven't found anything I like better. Thanks for watching!
ok from my sprys comes nothing out ! why ? he has the blue sprayhead
This stuf isn't available and online, on amazon, its like $12?! Why not use the rustoleum stuff?
+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera I've used them both, and I prefer the Krylon, especially since it sticks to plastic so well. I just buy it at my local store, so I have no idea how much it is on Amazon.
Thanks for the review!
Glad to see your back making videos, it's been a while since you put anything out.
Krylon seems quite expensive here in the UK, costing about £10 a can ($16 or so). Is it still worth picking up at the increased cost? I usually use Army painter as I've found they're pretty cheap but work extremely well as a primer.
I found this after trying the paint on my death guard. The dark green is amazing
Can i use for clothes?
On the subject of spray primers.... I wouldn't recommend the rustoleum x2 (white) primer. I have found that my initial coats of citadel or vallejo would rub off easily on raised areas :(
Nice tuto Atom. I'm also thinking of using graffiti spray cans to add specific colours in my base coats.
Thank you. 😄👌
OK tried this on my Sylvaneth Forest Spirit Warhost (the tan and brown to be exact) It looks and seems so far to work great. Only one problem I have so far...the really strong smell from the paint. Any suggestions for this or is it really an issue with others?
Any thoughts on the Rust-o-leum brand of camo flat paints? The Krylon is great, but it's been hard to find lately in my area. The larger stores (Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot) only have the Rustoleum camo. The Rustoleum colors are more limited, but they do have black, dark brown, kacki, and two shades of green. Luckily, I found a hardware store that carries the Krylon camo paints (for now).
+brewgeek1 I think I bought a can of the Rustoleum stuff once (I forget why) but I didn't like it as much for some reason. I think it was due to the texture. Thanks for watching!
+brewgeek1 I spent the better part of this morning looking for Krylon Camouflage paint - no dice. Although I found stores that carried the brand, they didn't have the Camo line. Strangely enough, most places had Rustoleum's version of Camouflage paint. I used and it seems to be just fine. Key is spraying in light passes. I have no other spray paint to compare it to, but for those hard pressed to find Krylon, this brand seems to be a viable substitute. NOTE: I used this over a Bones miniature.
Great video as always Atom, I hope you can give me your opinion: I'm starting a new Tau army; I'm looking for a Farsight Enclaves scheme, not-so-shiny crimson colour, and a traditional Lizardmen/Seraphon army; all the lizzies will be light blue, and I want some red, blue and green dinosaurs. I've got lots of recommendations of Krylon, especially the black ultra-flat, but I'm not sure what Krylon colours should I use for my new miniatures. I'd really like your opinion and/or suggestions about what colours use for them. Again, great video!
PS.: Three thumbs up, that sounds really, really dark.
For the crimson, look for an automotive primer in a 'red oxide' color. That'll help. Not sure what to use for the blue, though. Thanks for watching!
have you tried this on resin minis, say from forgeworld, puppetswar, ultraforge or the likes? How about metal? Any advice on those?
+Rod I've tried it on metal, and it sticks just fine. I'm not sure if I've tried it on Forge World or Finecast, however. Thanks for watching!
I bought this stuff a while back as a primer option brcause it was cheaper then the GW stuff.
How is it with Reaper Bones Miniatures?
+Jim McKay I'm not sure about this particular Krylon product, but some of their other primers would not cure properly on the bones. They remained tacky, particularly their "normal" black primer. Their white primer seemed to work, as long as you apply it in light coats and allow it to dry in between successive coats. For the Bones white rubbery material, I've had great luck with the Design Master primer from Michaels craft store. It dries almost instantly. Unfortunately, it only comes in gray and the spray nozzle doesn't allow for much control like the Krylon nozzles do.
Tested the Sand color on some Bones minis and it worked great. Went on smoothly and dried quickly. However, the same spray in brown remained tacky on the rubbery furniture pieces from dungeon saga.
+Jim McKay I tried the Khaki on both the super gooey and white plastic variants of Reaper Bones and they both ended up tacky and glossy. The gooey ones, 6 pack of goblins, were the most effected and the whiter plastic one is a little less effected. The Krylon Flat White Paint + Primer seemed to work ok though. I also tried Army Painter Flat black and it isn't as tacky however it's very glossy. If you go over to Reaper's forum they recommend not adding primer at all but I just had to try anyways lol. One last thing I will mention is that i was touching the models periodically to test their tackiness so i'm not sure how much a reaction the oils on my hand would contribute to the tackiness over time.
+Galactus I just primed a few more bones models after my initial success last month. This time, several of the models remained tacky with the sand and Khaki colors, and a couple have gotten tackier over time. ARGH! That same day, I also primed a few with the Michaels Design Master gray. These are dry and perfect. That's the only primer that has never failed me on any plastics. I just wish the sprayer was more like the krylon cans.
+brewgeek1 I read about the Michaels as well but when i looked at the can i saw "acetone" just like the rest and assumed it may have the same tacky results. I guess if the Krylon Flat White Paint + Primer (same nozzle as the others) turned out ok *crosses fingers* then the Michaels may be ok as well. I'm going to try painting all of these tests, including one without primer, and see what sort of success I have.
I've always hated Krylon and been more of a Rust-oleum guy for spray paints, but that Fusion stuff does a good job with plastics. Another good paint, for priming at least is Duplicolor Sandable Primer. The latter is flat and bonds well to most surfaces. It's meant for the automotive industry but has served me well with miniatures and having RED, BLACK, WHITE and GRAY it only sets me back about $5.
+Walker White Yes, I used to use Duplicolor Sandable Auto Primer before I got an airbrush or was using the Krylon Camo paints. It's also a really good primer. Thanks for watching!
Didn't you review the Black Templars codex?
An update for 2024 from someone who used this on plastic & metal models (Gripping Beast/Saga).
Spray conditions for me: February (2024) in Virginia, low 50's, low humidity.
Cost: $8 per can (plus tax). Local mom & pop hardware store.
Performance: On plastics it is great. I have used GW products and Army Painter products before and there is no noticeable difference for me. My Saxons/Vikings got an even coverage, and the paint has bonded well to the surface - details are still crisp and sharp, too.
However, the metals were.... not great. Pretty bad actually. Maybe the conditions weren't ideal, but the paint did not bond well to the surface, was very chalky, and even after drying I could remove paint with my finger (not my nail either, just running my finger over the model). For one particular model (Harald Hadrada) I had to brush the paint off with a small detailing wire brush because it was just too thick - covered up the details of the sculpt.
I may be out of practice with spray cans generally, but I did expect much better if I'm being blunt.
I picked up a can of Rustoleum 2X which has similar reviews so I may try the metals again with that and report back.
Still, despite the setback the cost-to-performance ratio makes it a no-brainer for me, especially with plastics.
This is a real long shot considering how old the video is, but, would these be recommended for spraying up a Nerf Pulse Rifle? I see people use Rustoleum in the US but it seems this the closest we get in the UK, and it is a lot more expensive now. Cheers
It would certainly stick to the plastic of a Nerf gun, I would think. Thanks for watching!
@@tabletopminionshahaaaa! Thank you so very much for getting back to me, the input is very much appreciated. I think I shall flat black and olive away! Large areas covered fast and well, seems perfect to me 👍
Thanks for the great advice. Quick question: can I use testors enamel paint on miniatures? Someone on TH-cam said that they were only for models and not miniatures.
You can, technically, but you generally shouldn't. Stick with acrylic water-based paints and you'll happier in the long run. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Your content is great.
Atom can you review the magnetic primer I'm hearing about by rust oleum? I don't know but I trust your opinion.
Randy Russell no dice? :)
Quick question have you tired it on plastic and metal kits before, or just plastic? I am looking at some warmachine models that need to be primed. Most are just plastic, but a few are metal and one is a metal/plastic kit. Regardless great video and thank you for sharing.
Yes, but can you strip them if necessary?
That's a good question, I haven't tried. Maybe another experiment coming soon. Thanks for watching!
+Stephanie Torres If it's anything like the regular primers they have, you can strip the paint easily.
ArchArturo I'm not sure but I think Citadel spray paints also have the same agent that bonds with plastic. I've used simple green and it strips right off the metal, but not off of the plastic parts on my models. That's why I was curious.
+Stephanie Torres Yeah, that has been my experience as well, but mostly I think that's because it sticks to the tiny crevices (chainmail, eyes, etc.).
Been using Krylon Automotive primer for years, no problems.
Oh thank goodness. I've been using this since about 2007, and was worried I was getting the wrong stuff out of necessity
I really appreciate this video! I already have this Krylon paint, and am well-acquainted with it's "cammo" virtues...
That said, I wouldn't have thought it would be all that great for the fine detail needed in mini painting...
(In the past I think I remember experimenting with actual rattle can [not intended for modeling] primer with sucky results.)
Ergo, my 'go to' primer since the early 80s has been Tamiya's grey "Surface Primer For Plastic and Metal," which works great, *but now sells for no less than $12 or $15 USD's per "tiny-ass can!"*
Thanks to you, now I know I no longer have to suffer from *"empty wallet-related emotional scarring!"*
And THAT, ladies and gentlemen, is why I frequently tune in to "Uncle Atom"--
*[[[TO MAINTAIN MENTAL STABILITY!]]]*
(Bet you didn't know you were actually *saving lives,* huh U.A.?)
Keep up the good work!
🖒😎
Do you know if the rust-oleum camo spray paint is any good? You can buy it at wal-mart or from amazon:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NHVM0NE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687522&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B009ROI59I&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0CHZD2AW6Q81ERR9EGAK
I think I own one can of one of their camo colors, and I didn't like the surface texture as much. Thanks for watching!
I use Rustoleum military black as my primary...uh...primer. It is as close to the old Citadel matt black as I have found. Goes on thin and even, coats well, adheres well, is one third the price of Citadel's current black spraypaint.
I just did 2 speed shapes one with the Krylon and one with the rustoleom. The krylon has a much more even look to it, and a better color in my opinion. Krylon is definitely the better choice when it comes to these flat camo colors.
Nice review! I will try to put my hand on that paint! ..Do you know if it melt foam board like the «other» Primer in rattle can? :)
I love it. Used it on my Jeep.
I wonder if they are a Way to better prime ye olde bones miniatures.
Fabian Siemon I'm actually about to prime a converted Reaper Bones miniature as part of my first This is Not a Test (from World's End Publishing) warband. I'll let you guys know how it goes, but I suspect it should work really well. Thanks for watching!
tabletopminions It is my understanding that the Bones material reacts badly to the propellants used in spray cans so be sure to test it out on minis you wouldn't mind ruining. Others that have used spray cans to prime Bones have reported that the mini stays tacky and won't dry. The best primer for Bones that I have found is Vallejo Surface Primer, brushed or airbrushed on.
+James Wright The Primer from Micheals (Design Master) works very well with Bones plastic. The primer dries almost instantly. The only problem is that it only comes in gray and the spray nozzle is hard to control. Sprays out like a plume, but it works.
Man I'm sorry if I seem dickish, I look forward to your shows and appreciate your lessons. I found them at ace and they carry them regularly but He and Lowes no longer will carry krylon. Damn taggers!
Unfortunately this brand cannot be find in my country.
:) great shirt dude. Cheers for the low down Atom
Cloverleaf Studios Good eyes. I have a whole bunch of the old Blackbird Designs shirts. AH-64, A-10, F-117, and at least two or three more I can't think of off the top of my head. Thanks for watching!
now that may be very useful! cheers
This just in, be super careful as this stuff seems much more particular about the environment in which you use it than other paints. I did a Nephilim Jetfighter and it dried like lizard skin, it was cold out and I was in a cold shed. The GW primer and the Army Painter primers both dried flat as expected and of the three only the Krylon failed. Not to say it isn't good paint, but it is finnicky about where you apply it, more so than Army Painter and GW if my experience is anything to go by.
+JohnnyH1982 I'll keep an eye out, but I've never had an issue. I sprayed some yesterday, in fact, under less than ideal conditions (under 50 degrees F) and it seems to have worked fine. However, I know that rattlecans (in general) can be finicky. Thanks for watching!
I might try using this on those cheap large skeletons and cavemen toys or some of the board game minis that stubbornly refuse to be primed with anything. Everything else I threw at those minis has flaked off.
+Blandco You might try cleaning the models with dish soap, too. There could be a mold release agent on them which the paint won't stick to. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions I tried cleaning and scrubbing them. I tried soaking them for a week in soapy water. my last attempt was leaving them in green stuff for a month then in water. But those dang Timee figures won't take any type of primer including dullcoate, Krylon, or even different types of primer that are used on patio furniture. Everytime the paint just chips right off them. I am starting to think they somehow infused the plastic itself with mold release agent.
+Blandco Weird. Maybe they're cursed. Try the Krylon Fusion stuff and see if that helps. If it doesn't, it's best to bury them at a crossroads on a moonless night and call it finished. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions Thanks for the great videos! I will try to seal their evil away somehow. For now they are a reminder that trying to use the cheapest minis is a recipe for disaster and wasting time that could have been spent painting miniatures that actually take paint. (Like the D&D board game minis I just did a video on)
2 shades of green you say? Thank you so much, I was not looking forward to spending 18 bucks on a can of death guard green from GW! Uncle Atom with the assist to Grandpa Nurgle!
Thanks for the great review! I will definitely have to try out this primer
Sometimes $5 plus $7 shipping, so almost the cost of GW primer.
+CronusandRhea ZeusandHera Does GW make an olive drab primer (good for Imperial Guard vehicles) or a bone colored primer (good for skeletons and Tyranids)? I honestly don't know as we don't have a GW store anywhere near me.
but dont they glob and hide detail?
+snoopy jdog I've never had that issue, but I also put several light coats on when priming, as one should. Thanks for watching!
thank you for the tip casue gw primer is expensive.
+snoopy jdog Sweet merciful crap, yeah it is. Thanks for watching!
Anyone try this on Reaper Bones?
I'm gonna have to go to Menard's now
$3.87 at Walmart
I like krylon brand spray paint but I dont want my neck snapped
So that’s the spray paint from SCP-173
Why don't you adjust your glasses so they stop sliding down your nose?