You are like a painting Jesus. Just freely dispensing your insights, wisdom & secret painting techniques for us to follow your teachings. Praise to Smasher!
I just started into miniatures, and spent a HUGE amount of time painting my first 6 models (Exemplar Cinerators, they do look pretty great) I have been suspicious that this would be the way to go but, having 0 experience with this, had written the idea off. Definitely giving this a try with the next few models.
Try your technique first on some throwaway models. Look around eBay for some cheap Space Marines (badly painted ones or something like that) and try out your "paint recipe" step by step on them before you start painting your good models. See my video, "How to Prepare to Paint Your Army" for more info. Thanks for watching!
I got lucky. When I first strated painting models and wargaming my father was very supportive and owned 3 airbrushes he used for automotive painting. I'm starting to get some of my friends into thr hobby and I will be sure to show them this video.
General advice from someone who uses spray paint often here: dont use krylon or rustoleum cans. they are way too expensive for the final results they give you. some good spray paints to use are (choose depending on your area and what is available) Montana 94: Acrylic paint with a matte finish. works really well for most things and is a good product for its cost (especially if you're in europe) Belton Molotow: for me this is the best spray paint you can get but it is kinda expensive. Montana Gold: its in between these two in quality and may be easier to find for some people. If you are wondering where to get these paints the best places are graffiti supply shops (yeah i know kinda weird but trust me they can give you some good advice and techniques if you are just starting out) Good luck on your painting!
Nice tip--I'm gonna consider how I could use this for my minis. I think it would work for my "good-enough" paint jobs. I don't have a neighborhood hobby shop so spray paint may be a challenge to locate. I do have other types of stores like big box, auto supplies and craft stores, so I think I could find something to work. I have tons of minis to paint and I'm frequently intimidated by the magnitude of my task, but I keep plugging away at it a few figures at a time. ANYTHING to speed the progress and reduce the magnitude of the job is helpful and inspiring! Thank you.
amazing tips...have been priming and using rattle for base coating but never thought about highlighting like that. Will give it a try on my dark vengeance cultists also and if i like the results will buy probably a spray brush and adventure a bit further. Thank you!
Good stuff, I'd been thinking of doing the same to pre-highlight minis, with a black primer and grey or white dusted on for the highlight. You should film a tutorial of yourself painting them, so we can see how it comes out before the washes are added.
Interesting tips that I now wanna try on my own Tau! Currently I follow some advice in your Underpainting article, and spray black primer with white at 30 degrees to make a highlight, then use watered down paint to successively layer it on top. Using a blue as a highlight hadn't crossed my mind. I might give that a try on the more numerous Fire Warrior and Pathfinder squads I'll be painting, and see how it goes.
I did this with my first land raider, storm wolf, and my rhino. I used the GW russ grey primer, but I didn't highlight and I did the basic color scheme by hand. I still do most of my marines by hand, although I am planning on getting an airbrush.
Great thing about this way is at a later date you can take them to a better standard quite easy and quickly as you have done the bulk of the base painting already .
Really excellent brilliant tips and now I'm going to try this process of primer and undercoat with my new H&S infinity out now and then apply some washes just to start with, thanks for helping me break that many months of procrastination habit
WOW really helpful, Thank you. For years, I have been trying to perfect painting models. I'm no professional, but I can paint a decent ork. I still keep the crappy ones from when I was younger to remind me how NOT to paint. But I always found myself using many Browns, Greens and reds with my army. Green primer instead of black could be the answer.
+Andrew Antretter It totally saves you a step. And if you use one of the dark green sprays from the Krylon Camouflage as your primer and base, it'd be a great shadow layer for irk skin. Thanks for watching!
Geraud Sansom They used to sell several colours. I remember back in '02 ('03?) I bought a Boltgun Metal Primer (or was it mithril silver?) to start some Necrons (back when the Necrons were cool). GW also sold Blood Red, Ultramarines Blue, Dark Angel Green as well as a few others.
Don't really mean to nit pick but GW doesn't actually sell primer, they sell spray paint. I always like to say that "Paint isn't primer and primer isn't paint." Primer is a different formula than paint, primer has a bit of a "bite"to it that paint doesn't (or at least shouldn't) have.
Got my Kil Team on after a long time away from the hobby - starting back from scratch with no tools, paints or models. Got my basic tools (scalpel and glue) and the next hurdle was where to start with the paints. Thanks a lot for this kind of tip. I'l be able to get a few armies built up and playable with my fellow relapsed plastic crack addicts without eating all my free time and money.
I really liked those cultists after you had added the other details. Such a unique look to them. I may try something like this for my Iron Warrior cultists.
Another great hobby tip. I constantly go back to your posts and review tips I may need as my modeling projects change. Thanks 🙏 again and as always great explanation too
I know this video is now old, but just wanted to add: I use a (kinda) similar technique with my metallic-ey Night Lords: a metallic black tamiya spray plus Tamiya clear blue = major win, super quickly. You could add in a little clear red or to make it a bit more matte Kantor blue, night lords blue (FW) or Stormy Blue (Model Color), but I have found that a simple 1-2 like that is so amazingly cool looking yet simple to get that flip black/blue look.
some of the new rattlecans now are "paintable primers" that are good base colors but take layers of paint over them REALLY well. I have been using rattlecans for decades and have switched to Valspar from my local Lowes and I LOVE it. goes on thinner than anything I have ever used from a can (its close to airbrush level thin if you do it right), sticks really good, and takes water based paints over it with NO worries. best of all its about $4/can... just my $.02
I got great results on 40k vehicles too. I got a dark angel rhino and land raider from a friend. Since I am a blood angels player I needed to get them from black to red fast and a brush just wasnt going to work. I used Army Painter Pure Red and sprayed the tanks from the top and from 45ish degree angle and a little bit from straight on the side, front and back. The vehicles look pre weathered and shaded all in one step and no brush strokes in the red! Now I just need to pick out some details and do some highlights. Also black primer with Army painter dragon red worked great on my dark eldar. I go a little heavier on the lighter color than what you showed. I kind of make it a second base coat but only spray from the top and 45 degrees.
Curious if you have any updated takes on rattle can tricks since you made this almost a decade ago? Forgive me if you have already covered this in a more recent video!
I would love if gw put out the two squads of cultists from dark vengeance since the set is not available anymore and i love using the models for penal legion
So I imagine this would be effective for dnd miniatures as well ,or does the scale difference effect it ,for example do I run the risk of too much highlight on a mini that is far smaller than your average space marine. Thanks for sharing this. I'm a dnd player and am constantly jealous of the 40k guys at my LGS for their paint quality so I am stealing the techniques from you guys and attempting to apply it to a different geekdom of model painting.
Hi, I'm about to jump into painting, and I got a question... If you don't have an air brush, and the rattle can is too rough or crude, would a cologne atomizer do the trick? I guess you should extra thin your paints, and do several passes, but is it possible? does somebody do this? Thanks
A really dark grey, if you can find it. Then I’d put a black wash over it. The trick (in my mind) to highlighting black is to make it subtle and not look like you highlighted it. Thanks for watching!
Just a question: Could you just simply combine the primer layer and the base color and use that? IE instead of priming something grey and then painting like khaki or red or whatever, could you just prime the model khaki or red or whatever and use that as the base coat?
What are your thoughts on decanting paint from rattle cans? I've seen a number of videos on how to but thought I'd ask what you think of the actual usefulness.
These tricks are all great but I am still completely lost about a specific problem. You say that we can use a paintbrush to prime a model but if I stick to GW for example, then I know I based a model but I do not think I primed them. If I use a rattlecan then as said in multiple videos you need to accept that some parts will not be covered by the primer or else you will put too much paint and It will destroy the details. The problem of course is that because of that my color priming is kind of useless since I will need to base anyway. I am super confused and nobody seem to talk about this basic problem.
A lot of it will, yes. The Krylon Camo rattlcecan paint might not, but you've hopefully put it on in a thin enough coat that it won't really matter. Thanks for watching!
Hey uncle Atom, I know this is an old vid, but I was caught up in a snakes and ladders game of your vids. I’d love to own an airbrush, but have a small child at home. Do you have a video or some insights on the setup needed for an airbrush. The cost is not what’s keeping me; it’s the footprint and safety precautions someone with a child might need (in terms of paint particles and so on)
I don't like rattle cans and I cannot invest in a airbrush however I do use sponges and straws and they give my models the same effect as if I was using a airbrush. Works good for me. On average I can finish from scratch about four to six models a day. I also work full-time, a dad of three and I am building my daughter a dolls house.
This only works on minis that pretty much have one dominant color. For my Ork army, I have to hand paint a hundred boyz because they have all sorts of colors in small areas so this won't work. I rather sit down with my citadel paints and paint for a long time than have a difficult time painting over a weird primer color.
For white, with this spray idea or anything else, you actually want to be painting greys. So an easy way would be to start with a darker midtone of grey, then work up to a very light grey then finally a white highlight. For this quick technique id at least spray grey and then 45 degree very light grey and then top down spray white.
As a newcomer to this hobby, I find it very hard to craft my own technique and set preferences as there are many different opposing opinions out there on the internet,and in the two gaming stores in my city. Recently I went to go get some grey primer for my Tau and one of them suggested that instead of priming Grey and painting blue,the main color of my Tau, I instead should prime blue and then get a lighter blue primer to highlight. while that would shave time off, I prefer to paint by hand. Another problem is this cruel weather we have up here in the midwest which,so far, has prevented me from priming as I prime in the garage.
+auslov I like to shorten the amount of time that it takes me to paint, so I'd do the blue primer and then lighter blue to highlight as well. I'm in Wisconsin, so I understand the 'too cold to prime outside' thing. I think there are videos out there about how to still spray in winter (something about heating your rattlecan in a bowl of warm water or something) that you could check out. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions WI here as well. Had luck keeping everything inside until I prime and let the smell go away outside then bring in. So far I have not had a problem.
Thanks for the tips, great video. You had said that you used pill bottles to hold the models, what kind of putty do you use to hold the model to the bottle?
I use poster putty. Some people call it Blue-Tack, but the stuff I use is white and from Hobby Lobby. Check my video, "How to Hold on to Your Miniatures" for more info about it. Thanks for watching!
Back when I played WHFB we told our dwarf player exactly what's rattling inside these cans and that he should crack the empty ones open to stock up on minis...
I was priming my first miniatures today and I was freaking out trying not to fill in the detail. It's hard to tell with the naked eye. I live in Australia and bought a can from my games workshop for $30. I wish everything was as cheap as it is in america.
That GW primer is really expensive. I'd tell you to go to the auto parts store and get some sandable auto primer if you can. That'll work just as well and cost a lot less. Thanks for watching!
Oh wow thanks for the help. I appreciate your honesty! I might have to go to my local auto store and see what they have in stock! To be honest I wasn't too happy with the limited colour choice at GW. I thought I'd like the colour chose but now I wish I had have chosen something darker. Also this may sound picky but the finish looks kind of dusty and not as pleasant as I thought it would be for a $30 can. I think I lost a small percentage of detail.
Sadville's Crafts I work in an autobody shop, and I would recommend the 'self etch' style spray can primer, rather than the sandable primer. the sandable primer is actually just a bit thicker than the self etch....
Justin Ryan nice tip. I shy away from the sandable primer because it always winds up as a grainy mess. It's for use on woods and metals and the like, not so much for miniatures.
Army Painter do make some great primer/base color rattle cans. They're expensive (usually USD$16 a can) but they can help you get that exact color and look that you might be going for. Thanks for watching!
+Rich C. (Shoveler) Like an actual glass marble? Really? I always thought it was a metal ball, but actually a glass marble would probably be cheaper. Thanks for watching!
You are like a painting Jesus. Just freely dispensing your insights, wisdom & secret painting techniques for us to follow your teachings. Praise to Smasher!
No problem, I'm here to help. Thanks for watching!
I've painted up 75 Chaos Cultists that way and they look really nice and it only took me two evenings!
I just started into miniatures, and spent a HUGE amount of time painting my first 6 models (Exemplar Cinerators, they do look pretty great) I have been suspicious that this would be the way to go but, having 0 experience with this, had written the idea off. Definitely giving this a try with the next few models.
Try your technique first on some throwaway models. Look around eBay for some cheap Space Marines (badly painted ones or something like that) and try out your "paint recipe" step by step on them before you start painting your good models. See my video, "How to Prepare to Paint Your Army" for more info. Thanks for watching!
I got lucky. When I first strated painting models and wargaming my father was very supportive and owned 3 airbrushes he used for automotive painting. I'm starting to get some of my friends into thr hobby and I will be sure to show them this video.
Wish I knew about this before painting my 100 conscripts. Now I know to do this for my 200 cultist. Thank you this helps a ton.
+StopMoss b Glad to have helped. This would work really well on cultists. Thanks for watching!
Brilliant thanks for SHARING
Great video and an excellent tip for people new to the hobby or looking to turn out a lot of miniatures for an army quickly.
General advice from someone who uses spray paint often here: dont use krylon or rustoleum cans. they are way too expensive for the final results they give you. some good spray paints to use are (choose depending on your area and what is available) Montana 94: Acrylic paint with a matte finish. works really well for most things and is a good product for its cost (especially if you're in europe) Belton Molotow: for me this is the best spray paint you can get but it is kinda expensive. Montana Gold: its in between these two in quality and may be easier to find for some people. If you are wondering where to get these paints the best places are graffiti supply shops (yeah i know kinda weird but trust me they can give you some good advice and techniques if you are just starting out) Good luck on your painting!
useful advice Krylon paints work well, way cheaper then GW basecoat spray
I really like the Krylon camo line. They work great. Thanks for watching!
Nice tip--I'm gonna consider how I could use this for my minis. I think it would work for my "good-enough" paint jobs. I don't have a neighborhood hobby shop so spray paint may be a challenge to locate. I do have other types of stores like big box, auto supplies and craft stores, so I think I could find something to work. I have tons of minis to paint and I'm frequently intimidated by the magnitude of my task, but I keep plugging away at it a few figures at a time. ANYTHING to speed the progress and reduce the magnitude of the job is helpful and inspiring! Thank you.
amazing tips...have been priming and using rattle for base coating but never thought about highlighting like that. Will give it a try on my dark vengeance cultists also and if i like the results will buy probably a spray brush and adventure a bit further. Thank you!
your advice is so good for newbee's like me. Your rhythm is great and easy to follow, and listen to. Thanks
Good stuff, I'd been thinking of doing the same to pre-highlight minis, with a black primer and grey or white dusted on for the highlight. You should film a tutorial of yourself painting them, so we can see how it comes out before the washes are added.
Interesting tips that I now wanna try on my own Tau! Currently I follow some advice in your Underpainting article, and spray black primer with white at 30 degrees to make a highlight, then use watered down paint to successively layer it on top. Using a blue as a highlight hadn't crossed my mind. I might give that a try on the more numerous Fire Warrior and Pathfinder squads I'll be painting, and see how it goes.
I did this with my first land raider, storm wolf, and my rhino. I used the GW russ grey primer, but I didn't highlight and I did the basic color scheme by hand. I still do most of my marines by hand, although I am planning on getting an airbrush.
Airbrushes are great. You're really going to enjoy it. Thanks for watching!
Just bought an Abyssal mega army for Kings of War. This is definitely going to help me get these done quickly. Thanks for the video.
Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
Great thing about this way is at a later date you can take them to a better standard quite easy and quickly as you have done the bulk of the base painting already .
Really excellent brilliant tips and now I'm going to try this process of primer and undercoat with my new H&S infinity out now and then apply some washes just to start with, thanks for helping me break that many months of procrastination habit
WOW really helpful, Thank you. For years, I have been trying to perfect painting models. I'm no professional, but I can paint a decent ork. I still keep the crappy ones from when I was younger to remind me how NOT to paint. But I always found myself using many Browns, Greens and reds with my army. Green primer instead of black could be the answer.
+Andrew Antretter It totally saves you a step. And if you use one of the dark green sprays from the Krylon Camouflage as your primer and base, it'd be a great shadow layer for irk skin. Thanks for watching!
I think Games Workshop saw this video and said that is a good idea, lets make more then just black and white spray paint...
Geraud Sansom They used to sell several colours. I remember back in '02 ('03?) I bought a Boltgun Metal Primer (or was it mithril silver?) to start some Necrons (back when the Necrons were cool). GW also sold Blood Red, Ultramarines Blue, Dark Angel Green as well as a few others.
Don't really mean to nit pick but GW doesn't actually sell primer, they sell spray paint. I always like to say that "Paint isn't primer and primer isn't paint." Primer is a different formula than paint, primer has a bit of a "bite"to it that paint doesn't (or at least shouldn't) have.
@@BlaquesJacques I have always used their spray paint as primer and it has worked really well for me.
@@kyle857 tbh, primer isn't necessary if u have a matte overcoat.
I dont know what it is about your videos but I always enjoy watching them and listening to your tips. Keep it comming
There's something about your videos sir that I extremely enjoy every single of them
Got my Kil Team on after a long time away from the hobby - starting back from scratch with no tools, paints or models.
Got my basic tools (scalpel and glue) and the next hurdle was where to start with the paints.
Thanks a lot for this kind of tip. I'l be able to get a few armies built up and playable with my fellow relapsed plastic crack addicts without eating all my free time and money.
This is an amazing idea. I'm looking forward to trying this out on my Raven Guard army.
+J. Griffin Harmon If you don't have an airbrush, then it's the way to go. Thanks for watching!
I really liked those cultists after you had added the other details. Such a unique look to them. I may try something like this for my Iron Warrior cultists.
Another great hobby tip. I constantly go back to your posts and review tips I may need as my modeling projects change. Thanks 🙏 again and as always great explanation too
I know this video is now old, but just wanted to add: I use a (kinda) similar technique with my metallic-ey Night Lords: a metallic black tamiya spray plus Tamiya clear blue = major win, super quickly. You could add in a little clear red or to make it a bit more matte Kantor blue, night lords blue (FW) or Stormy Blue (Model Color), but I have found that a simple 1-2 like that is so amazingly cool looking yet simple to get that flip black/blue look.
some of the new rattlecans now are "paintable primers" that are good base colors but take layers of paint over them REALLY well. I have been using rattlecans for decades and have switched to Valspar from my local Lowes and I LOVE it. goes on thinner than anything I have ever used from a can (its close to airbrush level thin if you do it right), sticks really good, and takes water based paints over it with NO worries. best of all its about $4/can... just my $.02
Usually a glass marble in a rattle can.
Nathan Miller after the can runs out, would someone be able to get the marble?
@@ironjehoshaphat2764 yes
I got great results on 40k vehicles too. I got a dark angel rhino and land raider from a friend. Since I am a blood angels player I needed to get them from black to red fast and a brush just wasnt going to work. I used Army Painter Pure Red and sprayed the tanks from the top and from 45ish degree angle and a little bit from straight on the side, front and back. The vehicles look pre weathered and shaded all in one step and no brush strokes in the red! Now I just need to pick out some details and do some highlights. Also black primer with Army painter dragon red worked great on my dark eldar. I go a little heavier on the lighter color than what you showed. I kind of make it a second base coat but only spray from the top and 45 degrees.
What was used to get the rusted look on the cultists weapons at 9:38?
Curious if you have any updated takes on rattle can tricks since you made this almost a decade ago? Forgive me if you have already covered this in a more recent video!
Thanks for the advice and helping me to start painting.
Always glad to help. Thanks for watching!
This was a really great tip. I am going to have to try this. Thank you for the advice.
I would love if gw put out the two squads of cultists from dark vengeance since the set is not available anymore and i love using the models for penal legion
So I imagine this would be effective for dnd miniatures as well ,or does the scale difference effect it ,for example do I run the risk of too much highlight on a mini that is far smaller than your average space marine. Thanks for sharing this. I'm a dnd player and am constantly jealous of the 40k guys at my LGS for their paint quality so I am stealing the techniques from you guys and attempting to apply it to a different geekdom of model painting.
Those rattle can paints though don't come off if you want to strip and repaint later, right!?
i haven't done any highlights but the best thing i bought for my Stormcast eternals army is Retributor armor rattlecan primer
Hi, I'm about to jump into painting, and I got a question... If you don't have an air brush, and the rattle can is too rough or crude, would a cologne atomizer do the trick? I guess you should extra thin your paints, and do several passes, but is it possible? does somebody do this? Thanks
If i prime my Deathwatch with black. What´s the best idea to spray highlight? Maybe gray?
A really dark grey, if you can find it. Then I’d put a black wash over it. The trick (in my mind) to highlighting black is to make it subtle and not look like you highlighted it. Thanks for watching!
Nice! I´ll try that. Thank you
That red primer would be great for Blood Angels or Word Bearers
I use Mephiston Red Primer for my Blood Angels
this looks like a great way to do snow effects
Just a question: Could you just simply combine the primer layer and the base color and use that? IE instead of priming something grey and then painting like khaki or red or whatever, could you just prime the model khaki or red or whatever and use that as the base coat?
Absolutely, as long as the khaki or red can act as a primer (or actually *be* a primer, like the cans from Army painter). Thanks for watching!
Richy Hu It is a bit problematic if you don't also have that same colour as a paint, because then you are unable to cover up any mistakes.
Thx for the tips. Will test this out
What are your thoughts on decanting paint from rattle cans? I've seen a number of videos on how to but thought I'd ask what you think of the actual usefulness.
I guess I can’t say I’d see a reason to do that (I’m not that fancy, color-wise) but if it works for people, that’s cool. Thanks for watching!
I think mainly I've seen it in reference to being a means of getting cheap airbrush paint. Got me.
Was wundering where you buy your primer? 😊
I just bought 2 cans of this stuff. Black and Sand. I usually use Army Painter color primer but I got tired of paying $15 a can.
The color palette isn't that broad (like the Army Painter stuff is) but it works great when they're the colors you need. Thanks for watching!
WarBoy try rustoleum primers. they work great for miniatures. less than $4 each
Brad Lund Which Rustoleum primer do you get? The only one I have available is a 2x coat I think.
Ahzek Ahriman I use the 2x primers. but I also use their camouflage colors, they work great for base coats
Brad Lund Hm. I also use the 2x but haven't tried the camouflage paints. Does the camo take away detail or is it comparable to the 2x? Thanks.
Zenital Highlighting would be the perfect name for this video, nice job.
These tricks are all great but I am still completely lost about a specific problem. You say that we can use a paintbrush to prime a model but if I stick to GW for example, then I know I based a model but I do not think I primed them. If I use a rattlecan then as said in multiple videos you need to accept that some parts will not be covered by the primer or else you will put too much paint and It will destroy the details. The problem of course is that because of that my color priming is kind of useless since I will need to base anyway. I am super confused and nobody seem to talk about this basic problem.
I had just watched your video on stripping paint, will this paint strip off?
A lot of it will, yes. The Krylon Camo rattlcecan paint might not, but you've hopefully put it on in a thin enough coat that it won't really matter. Thanks for watching!
thats an amazing trick! thank alot!
oh gosh I did not realize I had 6+ years of your wisdom to catch up on
thats how I painted most of my deathwing terminators for my dark angels added a recess shade afterwards and they look awesome :D
Rattle cans are great for painting big armies. Thanks for watching!
Oh I forgot I used my airbrush with this method but still good videa :D
And when I see your older posts, you look younger and it helps me delude myself into thinking I’m young again too! Hahahaha. Thanks
Hey uncle Atom, I know this is an old vid, but I was caught up in a snakes and ladders game of your vids.
I’d love to own an airbrush, but have a small child at home. Do you have a video or some insights on the setup needed for an airbrush. The cost is not what’s keeping me; it’s the footprint and safety precautions someone with a child might need (in terms of paint particles and so on)
I don't like rattle cans and I cannot invest in a airbrush however I do use sponges and straws and they give my models the same effect as if I was using a airbrush. Works good for me. On average I can finish from scratch about four to six models a day. I also work full-time, a dad of three and I am building my daughter a dolls house.
This only works on minis that pretty much have one dominant color. For my Ork army, I have to hand paint a hundred boyz because they have all sorts of colors in small areas so this won't work. I rather sit down with my citadel paints and paint for a long time than have a difficult time painting over a weird primer color.
Can you do one for guards men possibly
Can you do this with white?
For white, with this spray idea or anything else, you actually want to be painting greys. So an easy way would be to start with a darker midtone of grey, then work up to a very light grey then finally a white highlight. For this quick technique id at least spray grey and then 45 degree very light grey and then top down spray white.
As a newcomer to this hobby, I find it very hard to craft my own technique and set preferences as there are many different opposing opinions out there on the internet,and in the two gaming stores in my city. Recently I went to go get some grey primer for my Tau and one of them suggested that instead of priming Grey and painting blue,the main color of my Tau, I instead should prime blue and then get a lighter blue primer to highlight. while that would shave time off, I prefer to paint by hand. Another problem is this cruel weather we have up here in the midwest which,so far, has prevented me from priming as I prime in the garage.
+auslov I like to shorten the amount of time that it takes me to paint, so I'd do the blue primer and then lighter blue to highlight as well. I'm in Wisconsin, so I understand the 'too cold to prime outside' thing. I think there are videos out there about how to still spray in winter (something about heating your rattlecan in a bowl of warm water or something) that you could check out. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions WI here as well. Had luck keeping everything inside until I prime and let the smell go away outside then bring in. So far I have not had a problem.
I just like the sound of a rattle can. And the sound of the words "rattle can." Yeah, I'm weird like that.
The wonders of red oxide primer. Have gone through soooo many cans with my post apocalyptic cars.
Oh, yeah. It'd be *perfect* for that kind of thing. Nice idea! Thanks for watching!
red oxide is great. I've been using it to prime miniatures with lots of wood :)
Great ideas. Thanks!
Thanks for the tips, great video. You had said that you used pill bottles to hold the models, what kind of putty do you use to hold the model to the bottle?
I use poster putty. Some people call it Blue-Tack, but the stuff I use is white and from Hobby Lobby. Check my video, "How to Hold on to Your Miniatures" for more info about it. Thanks for watching!
Very cool video thanks!
Anyone got links for the cans?
You should do a video showing this technique.
I think I explained how to do it in the video. It's pretty simple. Thanks for watching!
Back when I played WHFB we told our dwarf player exactly what's rattling inside these cans and that he should crack the empty ones open to stock up on minis...
this video was really helpful!
Thanks for the great tips!
I was priming my first miniatures today and I was freaking out trying not to fill in the detail. It's hard to tell with the naked eye. I live in Australia and bought a can from my games workshop for $30. I wish everything was as cheap as it is in america.
That GW primer is really expensive. I'd tell you to go to the auto parts store and get some sandable auto primer if you can. That'll work just as well and cost a lot less. Thanks for watching!
Oh wow thanks for the help. I appreciate your honesty! I might have to go to my local auto store and see what they have in stock! To be honest I wasn't too happy with the limited colour choice at GW. I thought I'd like the colour chose but now I wish I had have chosen something darker. Also this may sound picky but the finish looks kind of dusty and not as pleasant as I thought it would be for a $30 can. I think I lost a small percentage of detail.
Sadville's Crafts I work in an autobody shop, and I would recommend the 'self etch' style spray can primer, rather than the sandable primer. the sandable primer is actually just a bit thicker than the self etch....
Justin Ryan nice tip. I shy away from the sandable primer because it always winds up as a grainy mess. It's for use on woods and metals and the like, not so much for miniatures.
nice tips and tricks!
Wouldn't a 90 degree angle from the ground be spraying it from the side? :P
The side is parallel to the ground. It would only be 180 degrees from beneath the model.
ahh right
50 is your lower limit? Does your average LSM spam scouts?
I had orange Tau aswell. I brush painted them though. badly.
The rattle is an imperfect glass marble.
Army painter do a good range of sprays, you might find your light red with them.
Army Painter do make some great primer/base color rattle cans. They're expensive (usually USD$16 a can) but they can help you get that exact color and look that you might be going for. Thanks for watching!
Great vid really helped
reminds me of a guide coat for automotive primer
Nice video I enjoyed it :)
awesome!
Is this a reupload
Nope, only uploaded it once - back over three years ago. Thanks for watching!
Still so useful
It's a marble usually.
The grainy cultist looked pretty rough
the rattlers inside are actually glass marbles most of the time.
RVB fans @ 4:13 - "It's not pink, it's lightish-red!"
Truth, the doohickey is actually a glass marble.
BRILLIANT :D
Hah, reference to "sand color" dates the video a lot! GD GW and their ever changing studio schemes
Maybe another hack is... removing the marble?
The rattle is from a marble.
+Rich C. (Shoveler) Like an actual glass marble? Really? I always thought it was a metal ball, but actually a glass marble would probably be cheaper. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions it's a tooth, dentists sell them to krylon.
+Tabletop Minions Yep it's a glass marble in there. Usually a green one.
This was uploaded 2 months before i started collecting Gunpla. :P
Lightish-red is definitely pink. Unless your name is Donut, ofc.
great colors green & yellow, chevron stripes, paint leaded heavy metal figures too like Greek black figure
I have never heard spray paint called a rattle can. New wargame vocab I guess.
RATTLECAN FOR THE RATTLECAN GOD!!!!
I think GW saw this and went hmmm just paint with washes..... Let's call them "contrast paints" and slap a higher price tag on them!!!!
This is how I paint my baneblades
Is that on your right hand a tattoo or a stamp from a night club? :-)
+Drednought2 Tattoo. Thanks for watching closely!
It's a marble inside it. 😀
the first 1:20 all facts
XD