I think that in my case (high hp street car), I would want the variable speed capability. There's no staging, burn out, or full throttle only happening. But there will be everything in between.
I like that approach. Great video! Can Wally get some attention over the winter so he can come back better than ever next year? #WeldUpWally #LincolnLocker
The heat is actually coming from the electrical power that you put into the pump. Sure a brushless motor is more efficient than a brushed. It's physics, more pressure and more flow demands more power and in the end it will generate heat into the fuel and surrounding air. The exhaust and surrounding temperatures are hopefully shielded so that will not heat as much as the pump itself. The real benefits are obvious with variable speed and an efficient motor. Giving less heat to the fuel at the same time it's stressing the electrical system less.
Wow great video this really cleared up a lot of stuff I had been wondering about I’m with you all the way until you said the pumps or pumps don’t work off the ign or ecu...so are you not running the green trigger wire for anything at all? Forgive my ignorance
I don’t personally run mine off of the ECU, though you easily could have have it trigger off of either at the same time. It doesn’t personally bother me to hit the fuel pump button before the starter, but everyone has a different preference.
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial oh yes I heard you speak on that I like how you have it set up, at the moment I’m just triggering a relay and ran decent wire for an I tank setup but great to see what you have done if my goals increase. Which they will.
So we can use Holley to switch it with 12v. Or use the i/o module wired to a relay to hit it with 12v. What about if I had a dual relay setup to feed power to my 5gpm pump. First relay is ran off the fuel pump wire from the Holley. Then when I get to say 5psi, my I/o module triggers my second relay to power the pump.. and T the pumps trigger wire into the power wire from the second relay.
Doug I’ve watched this video 3 times and apparently I’m an idiot because I can’t figure it out. I want to wire my 10gpm pump exactly like yours. 0.5 volts on one switch for lowest volume and 3.7 on the other for maximum volume. I bought a painless 70 amp relay kit but am struggling to figure out exactly where to wire the switches in-line. Any help would be appreciated! I’m using the diagrams directly off the relay kit and from aeromotives website but I’m no electrician.
Mine isn't quite like doug's, but if you havent gotten around to wiring it, I have the ECU trigger the relay for it to be on the low setting, than I just use a switched 12 to the yellow wire to power my boost solenoid on, and the fuel pump to the high setting like he said So the holley fuel pump wire goes to the switched 12v side of my relay, the output wire of that relay goes to the red wire on the pump, the ecu then primes and runs the pump like a stock one would. I flip a powered 12v switch and that goes to the power wire on my boost solenoid, and the yellow signal wire on the pump to speed it up to full. Hopefully that helps
I just started looking at these pumps. Is there any reason you couldn't just create a tps based 12v output in a holley ecu and tie that to the signal wire? I used to do something similar with a boost a pump.
I see that your pump isn’t being gravity fed fuel by the tank, I always thought you had to gravity feed external pumps. Do you not have to with this 5.0?
At what point would you go to a complete mechanical fuel pump either cable driven or belt driven with maybe a surge take mounted near the pump on the motor? I just worry about over loading electronics with, i/c pumps, ecu, fuel pump, big electric cooling fans, can be hard on an electrical system.
I fully understand the concept, but still don't know how he is signaling the pump low and high. Is there a transformer between that first switch and the pump taking 12, 14, 16 volts down to less than 3.7? I'd assume the second switch then sends the full 12 or more volts.
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial spoke with Aeromotive on this topic they claim for tuning purposes triggering and ramping in via TPS is their recommended option, they said if doing so using a shielded twisted pair wire off TPS is best to prevent any noise on the signal wire. Also claimed the signal wire draw is a super low milliamp draw so TPS readout is virtually un-effected in any way.
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Good information Doug; thanks for providing a summary of Motion’s experience. ✌️
Yeah buddy why take a chance 👍🏻 love these vids!
That’s a split tank ? Interesting!
Man that’s a badass! Ride! Beautiful job!
WHAT YOU HAVE SAID IS SPOT ON.
Appreciate the info!
Respectfully, Seth
Man you guys are awesome, thanks for sharing the info!
I think that in my case (high hp street car), I would want the variable speed capability. There's no staging, burn out, or full throttle only happening. But there will be everything in between.
I like that approach. Great video! Can Wally get some attention over the winter so he can come back better than ever next year? #WeldUpWally #LincolnLocker
Awesome video thanks!
Great video.
The heat is actually coming from the electrical power that you put into the pump. Sure a brushless motor is more efficient than a brushed. It's physics, more pressure and more flow demands more power and in the end it will generate heat into the fuel and surrounding air. The exhaust and surrounding temperatures are hopefully shielded so that will not heat as much as the pump itself.
The real benefits are obvious with variable speed and an efficient motor. Giving less heat to the fuel at the same time it's stressing the electrical system less.
Hey Doug, solid video as always. Is that cage in your car a kit? I like the shape of the rear downbars
How/what are you used to get less than 3volts. Is there a voltage converter in line. Any help will be appreciated.
Wow great video this really cleared up a lot of stuff I had been wondering about I’m with you all the way until you said the pumps or pumps don’t work off the ign or ecu...so are you not running the green trigger wire for anything at all?
Forgive my ignorance
I don’t personally run mine off of the ECU, though you easily could have have it trigger off of either at the same time. It doesn’t personally bother me to hit the fuel pump button before the starter, but everyone has a different preference.
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial oh yes I heard you speak on that I like how you have it set up, at the moment I’m just triggering a relay and ran decent wire for an I tank setup but great to see what you have done if my goals increase. Which they will.
What switch panel is that? Very nice
So we can use Holley to switch it with 12v. Or use the i/o module wired to a relay to hit it with 12v.
What about if I had a dual relay setup to feed power to my 5gpm pump. First relay is ran off the fuel pump wire from the Holley. Then when I get to say 5psi, my I/o module triggers my second relay to power the pump.. and T the pumps trigger wire into the power wire from the second relay.
Doug can you do a video on how to pack a parachute that uses your CO2 system for cooper , lol
👍
What deutsch connector are you using I can't find one that would be safe for the 40-70amps that is 2 pin.
Doug I’ve watched this video 3 times and apparently I’m an idiot because I can’t figure it out. I want to wire my 10gpm pump exactly like yours. 0.5 volts on one switch for lowest volume and 3.7 on the other for maximum volume. I bought a painless 70 amp relay kit but am struggling to figure out exactly where to wire the switches in-line. Any help would be appreciated! I’m using the diagrams directly off the relay kit and from aeromotives website but I’m no electrician.
Mine isn't quite like doug's, but if you havent gotten around to wiring it, I have the ECU trigger the relay for it to be on the low setting, than I just use a switched 12 to the yellow wire to power my boost solenoid on, and the fuel pump to the high setting like he said
So the holley fuel pump wire goes to the switched 12v side of my relay, the output wire of that relay goes to the red wire on the pump, the ecu then primes and runs the pump like a stock one would.
I flip a powered 12v switch and that goes to the power wire on my boost solenoid, and the yellow signal wire on the pump to speed it up to full.
Hopefully that helps
I just started looking at these pumps. Is there any reason you couldn't just create a tps based 12v output in a holley ecu and tie that to the signal wire? I used to do something similar with a boost a pump.
I see that your pump isn’t being gravity fed fuel by the tank, I always thought you had to gravity feed external pumps. Do you not have to with this 5.0?
What connectors are you using at the pump for the wiring?
At what point would you go to a complete mechanical fuel pump either cable driven or belt driven with maybe a surge take mounted near the pump on the motor? I just worry about over loading electronics with, i/c pumps, ecu, fuel pump, big electric cooling fans, can be hard on an electrical system.
Not necessary unless you make more power than 10gpm will deliver fuel for
This video is for Jackstand Jimmy on Ruby , LOL
Doug, what are using for connections from the pump pigtail to the larger 10ga power/ground required as per the Aeromotive instruction diagram? Thanks
I'd like to know as well.
I fully understand the concept, but still don't know how he is signaling the pump low and high. Is there a transformer between that first switch and the pump taking 12, 14, 16 volts down to less than 3.7? I'd assume the second switch then sends the full 12 or more volts.
It is happy seeing any voltage over 3.7 volts (and considers it the same as 3.7 volts) up to 16
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial I'm still not sure how you are triggering low speed? Or is it low speed by default with no voltage to the signal wire?
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial spoke with Aeromotive on this topic they claim for tuning purposes triggering and ramping in via TPS is their recommended option, they said if doing so using a shielded twisted pair wire off TPS is best to prevent any noise on the signal wire. Also claimed the signal wire draw is a super low milliamp draw so TPS readout is virtually un-effected in any way.
@@christopherlister8932this is good info.
70 amps is wild what size wire 4ga
4 ga is preferred
Compared to a Magnafuel 4303/750 in line series?
Both are great options. We love the 4303, but the 4303 flows significantly less. It’s more in the range of 3-3.5 or so gpm
@@MotionRaceworksOfficial are the 4303’s able to be controlled like this as well with voltage?
Thanks a lot.
I just run it off my MAP.