I'm no technician/mechanic. Yet Paul Danner's is the first channel I turn to if my vehicle is acting up. Easy testing procedures. Easy to understand. The old scope on a rope. Thanks Paul.
He is a good teacher for sure,I first new him some five or six years ago as scanner Danner. I do alot of trouble shooting in my neck of the woods now from watching all his videos.
@danbegay3646 These will still run without a pip signal, you just lose the advance. To time these engines you actually unplug the pip shorting bar to disable electronic advance.
Coil has to turn on to build magnetic field in the primary winding. Turns off to collapse the magnetic field to induce voltage in the secondary to fire the plug. If it switches on voltage on the ICM side falls dimming the light. Always better to test than throw parts at it. Nice video!!
If the engine won't run at all you can rule out the ignition coils. All the coils are not going to fail at the same time. A bad coil will cause a misfire just on one cylinder. If the engine won't run it has to be something common to all the cylinders like the crankshaft position sensor.
exactly, the very first part to check now is the triggering device, crankshaft sensor or anybother sensor related to ignition, then followed up by the computer itself
The one thing in my area people refuse to touch is anything electrical. There's one shop and they CHARGE because they kinda cornered the market here. Electrical issues are the worst. From a broken wire in a random harness, to parasitic drains, to something magically not getting ground or power. Intermittent issues are the WORST.
Something like this is just a basic test any mechanic "should" be knowledgeable to do. The issue is most mechanics are just part changers. Zero diagnostic skills.
Definitely a Haynes manual type of test. Nothing wrong w it. Haynes manuals were really DIY centered. Often they would tell u how to build a special tool rather than sell ur 1st born to the tool truck. Or one of my favorite practices is simply drilling or cutting a hole thru the floorboards to access the fuck me bolts on bell housings, or access holes for motor mounts. Things that are easy to do in a shop on a lift but nearly impossible for the shadetree wrench jockey.
I was working on a 88 Chevy that wouldn't start. It had a very weak spark. The voltage and ground to the coil were both good. I did a resistance check of the coil windings and they were within specs but it was breaking down under any type of load. Oddly, the dang thing would run if I advanced the timing. Nothing worse than something that's half broken.
When in doubt, which i was at the time. I was able to simply switch coils or relays whatever it is to quickly in field diagnos with my trunk tools. I live 60 miles away from half of my tools and can't help wanting to fix it ASAP, especially if I'm broke down at the store. I know those options are limited but not on my avalon (first 3 cylinders 😂). I now have a $10 meter everywhere, even in the toy box.
SD helped me fix the no spark on my 96 F150 4.6 with his Bronco no spark diagnosed video. Had to replace the pickup coil in the distributor. Ran perfect after that.
one way to tell which coil wire is power and which is control is look at more than one coil. Usually all the coil power wires will be the same color and the control wires will be different colors
Bros I watch have incredible skill levels and yet sometimes over complicated diagnoses. One spent hours to diagnose a bad cylinder vacuum; could have found right away with a cylinder vacuum gauge. Another spent six hours to find a bad relay; probably found in minutes with infrared. IDK, seems like they get tunnel vision after years of working on cars. Maybe due to fatigue. Like they never take time off.
Because it's complicated! When you have 2 o 3 systems related problems and from each system, you can have 5-7 posible causes that could give you 3-4 symptoms that are similar between the a few other systems. Now you have possible 10- 21 problems with 6-12 symptoms that relate to the one you have. Now what route will you pick to go? Usually the easiest first. Then, the one with a replacing part that is not working properly, then back to diagnostic.. pick another route. Technically, it is called "elimination process" and it's only bypassed by experience of the known issue!
If it is a failed driver in the ICM it doesn't hurt to do a current ramp of the coil after replacement. Found a couple of shorted coils this way. But usually they just die because of excessive heat.
I once helped a friend of mine replace a pickup in his distributor because his car wouldn't start, when all it was was the wire that went to the main fuse block had come out of his clamp-on battery terminal that he had literally just installed the day before it quit running. Why he didn't notice it is beyond me.
You can get a ton of flicker from the cranking. Especially if the battery is low after some knucklehead cranked the piss out of it. Take your test light switch it from your ground to your positive on your battery terminal take your probe put it on the brown wire it should clearly flicker on and off when cranking.. as controlling the ground side of the circuit if it doesn’t your module is not working drill down find out why.
Exactly. I repair NYC subway cars and some of the part swapping that makes no sense is laughable. Doors don't open, no power at key switch on any pin guy says let's change the switch????? I told him you go ahead and change the switch I'm not doing that I'll continue looking at the wiring diagram to see where we're losing the voltage. I go to work the next day and have stupid comments about changing a switch unnecessarily from the supervisor 😡. I told him I didn't change the switch my partner did and it's not my job to convince my job partner not to do stuff that makes no sense. I told him once I'm not going to repeat myself he can change whatever he wants.
Id say rotation of the engine is not detected so it wont release a spark. Probably crank sensor. Not sure on this engine, but many other cars work like this.
Not to change the subject but I have a 2003 Kawasaki motorcycle, ZRX1200R. For a long while, the bike wouldn't start. I checked and checked and replaced everything I could. Turned out it was just a loose ground connection. I'm not a fan of electrical stuff. At all.
You know Pauls the real deal because he doesn't need a diagram to do everything, I bet ya he can diagnose most things without going over to the computer and looking up service info.
Did you just like your own comment? Lol If you knew anything about what I'm doing, even if I assumed wrong on which wire was coil positive (which i didn't) , it doesn't matter because both circuits were the same, which means NO control!
Well as a 30 year Mechanic, 9 1/2 times out of 10 it is the coil so that's why the owner usually opts to change it themselves instead of paying much more for a shop to do it. When they find out it didn't fix it then they bring it to us
The point of why I posted this clip is I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach. If you want to know what was actually wrong with this truck, the full video is linked in the short. Thanks!
@pamelavance648 it's a hall effect distributor pick-up signal that Ford called a PIP (profile ignition pick-up) so don't let the soecific name throw you off
Ask yourself, "What killed the coil driver in the first place?", then check the coil primary for a short or heat damage.....just in case. Never forget cause and effect.
@ not really. I wouldn’t even be in there with a multi meter. You have a component that triggers in milliseconds how can you expect to see that trigger on anything other than a scope… test light is only good for checking the constant.
@RobbieMK5 at least you understand how fast this control signal is, but you are still ignorant of the value of a good old fashion incandescent test light in this application. th-cam.com/users/shorts7ooRXnEufFI?feature=share
@@ScannerDanner no I still use one a lot good for loading up circuits that need current draw to test. Also use it to see quality of grounds, and quick tests to see where voltage is and isn’t but using it on certain things just doesn’t make sense to me…
@RobbieMK5 did you watch the video link? It's a bad coil on that one and we see coil negative control with the test light. I'm not saying it is better than a scope but it is an accurate test in all circumstances except when you have a shorted primary winding in the ignition coil. But I address that in this one: th-cam.com/video/p68w9CJG00g/w-d-xo.html
It is a switched ground and it is not grounded with the key on. Also, it is a low resistance primary winding (1-2 ohms) so there isn't much of a voltage drop across it with my test light
Ok u got me thinking.. The pulse going to the injectors would require a noid light for the fact of the injector resistance is so low that a regular incandescent bul would be to much resistance. Right? I’m asking because I’m not 100% sure..
im no master of how things work but im pretty sure a ground is almost always black and also if your hooked to negative and probing negative if it does light up das bad
Not in this case. These are not actual ground wires that would all be black. Each control wire is an individual wire that goes back to the engine control computer. Each cylinder has its own individual control wire, so they will all be different colored wires.
@apolinarponce4506, I had a coil pack go bad on 02 ford f150, 4.2 v6 I don't know how I found out after I had to extract a broken spark plug and when I fixed it put the plug wire back on and found out the coil pack was going bad
They would install a coil because they are parts replacers. Theory and operation understand is crucial!! Eliminate the waste of time and money by understanding and knowing how to test .
Possibly. Could also be missing a cam/crank sensor input, power/ground, or some other input needed in order to fire the coils...more troubleshooting is needed.
Watch the full video when you have a chance. No coil - control (test light lit constantly) possibilities: 1. Input problem (cam/crank signals) 2. Ignition module/igniter problem 3. Power or ground issue with the ICM or igniter. 4. If the ECM directly controls the coil, then an ECM driver issue as well as other associated ECM issues (powers, grounds, 5v ref circuits) 5. Open in coil - control wire What this test proves in 99% of the circumstances is that you do NOT need an ignition coil. And as you saw, the coil was new. Learn this test and you'll never again need to "try a coil" to see if that fixes the no spark issue. What is the other 1% where this test will mislead you? When the coil primary winding is internally shorted and causes a massive amount of current flow. The coil driver (wherever it lives in. ECM, igniter or ICM) will attempt to limit current to protect itself and the flicker will not be seen even though there truly is coil control. A lab scope and a low amp probe is the only way you'll see that issue. Even an ohmmeter on the coil primary circuit can miss it!
Need further testing first smh. Coil drivers fail (ignition module/igniter) too. And wiring problems also happen as well as many other variables. Check the crank signal next, agree! Change the crank sensor at this stage means you're comfortable rolling the dice and that's not what i do on this channel
There absolutely will be 12v on coil negative (same as coil positive) with just the key on. It is a ground side switched circuit that is not being grounded yet.
@ScannerDanner starter current? It didn't dim when you did the positive side. You really need something better than a light to see the PWM sent to a coil
@mapax5 sure it did. It was identical. Either way, we are looking for a flickering light, one that is distinctly different than coil positive. You cant let battery voltage drops from high starter current throw you off. And you 100% do not need a different tool to see coil negative control th-cam.com/users/shorts7ooRXnEufFI?feature=share
Watch the full video linked directly in this short if you want to know. What the actual problem was, is not the point of why I posted this clip. I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach
Ford ran the EEC-IV setup for many years so it's hard to say what vehicle this is. If this is a points style distributor setup, check your gap and clean your contacts and try again. If it's a TFI distributor setup? Honestly, just replace the whole distributor and remote mount the TFI module with a proper heatsink and say goodbye to your Ford spark problems. Also don't buy a cheap aftermarket distributor either, total junk, waste of money.
not the point of why I posted this clip. I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach
Why when the video starts you have the tester on the spark plug? The power comes from the wire & coil not the spark plug. So you tested incorrectly in your open.
I might need to research a bit more then come back to the video I didnt get what the term "control" meant my english is not that good , is it supposed to flicker ? is that wire the output going to the coil
The point of why I posted this clip is I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach.
@ScannerDanner And I applaud your effort to try to teach. And I would go a step further and explain what the blinking of the test light actually means. You don't even have to go into things like permanent magnet generators or hall effect, analog, and digital signals. Just say the pickup(crank sensor) grounds the primary side of the coil as the engine rotates.
![Shorted Ignition Coil Primary Winding [DON"T LET THIS FOOL YOU!]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/p68w9CJG00g/mqdefault.jpg)
![Shorted Ignition Coil Primary Winding [DON"T LET THIS FOOL YOU!]](/img/tr.png)
I'm no technician/mechanic. Yet Paul Danner's is the first channel I turn to if my vehicle is acting up. Easy testing procedures. Easy to understand. The old scope on a rope. Thanks Paul.
Thank you!
He is a good teacher for sure,I first new him some five or six years ago as scanner Danner. I do alot of trouble shooting in my neck of the woods now from watching all his videos.
Him, Eric, and Ivan are the internet mechanic dream team
That points you to the crank position sensor or ignition control module depending on the vehicle system
Thanks
Being an old ford v8, its probably the ignition control module.
Check for pip next.
@danbegay3646 These will still run without a pip signal, you just lose the advance. To time these engines you actually unplug the pip shorting bar to disable electronic advance.
Coil has to turn on to build magnetic field in the primary winding. Turns off to collapse the magnetic field to induce voltage in the secondary to fire the plug. If it switches on voltage on the ICM side falls dimming the light. Always better to test than throw parts at it. Nice video!!
If the engine won't run at all you can rule out the ignition coils. All the coils are not going to fail at the same time. A bad coil will cause a misfire just on one cylinder. If the engine won't run it has to be something common to all the cylinders like the crankshaft position sensor.
exactly, the very first part to check now is the triggering device, crankshaft sensor or anybother sensor related to ignition, then followed up by the computer itself
Check the crank sensor.
Scanner Danner. ..The Man !!! Don't be a PARTS Changer 😮😮😮
The one thing in my area people refuse to touch is anything electrical. There's one shop and they CHARGE because they kinda cornered the market here. Electrical issues are the worst. From a broken wire in a random harness, to parasitic drains, to something magically not getting ground or power. Intermittent issues are the WORST.
hmm maybe I should start a business, not hard for me, hell I think what that pine auto guy does is super easy and wouldnt be hard at all.
youd be surprised what YOU can learn to do, maybe learn yourself and forget the shops
Really what’s the population if your small town
Something like this is just a basic test any mechanic "should" be knowledgeable to do. The issue is most mechanics are just part changers. Zero diagnostic skills.
One of the best teachers
Definitely a Haynes manual type of test. Nothing wrong w it. Haynes manuals were really DIY centered. Often they would tell u how to build a special tool rather than sell ur 1st born to the tool truck. Or one of my favorite practices is simply drilling or cutting a hole thru the floorboards to access the fuck me bolts on bell housings, or access holes for motor mounts. Things that are easy to do in a shop on a lift but nearly impossible for the shadetree wrench jockey.
Haynes taught me auto mechanics.
Them 'fuck me' bolts will getcha
I was working on a 88 Chevy that wouldn't start. It had a very weak spark. The voltage and ground to the coil were both good. I did a resistance check of the coil windings and they were within specs but it was breaking down under any type of load. Oddly, the dang thing would run if I advanced the timing. Nothing worse than something that's half broken.
probably the crank. pullry was replaced by a replacement parts that was out of alignment with the markings compared to the original,
been there before
When in doubt, which i was at the time. I was able to simply switch coils or relays whatever it is to quickly in field diagnos with my trunk tools. I live 60 miles away from half of my tools and can't help wanting to fix it ASAP, especially if I'm broke down at the store. I know those options are limited but not on my avalon (first 3 cylinders 😂). I now have a $10 meter everywhere, even in the toy box.
Awesome Outstanding job thanks
SD helped me fix the no spark on my 96 F150 4.6 with his Bronco no spark diagnosed video. Had to replace the pickup coil in the distributor. Ran perfect after that.
That’s uncle SCANNER RITE HERE BOYZ! Make sure you GET HIS BOOK & KEEP HIM CLOSE BC HES THE MANNNN! Thanks scanner dancer!
one way to tell which coil wire is power and which is control is look at more than one coil. Usually all the coil power wires will be the same color and the control wires will be different colors
Bros I watch have incredible skill levels and yet sometimes over complicated diagnoses. One spent hours to diagnose a bad cylinder vacuum; could have found right away with a cylinder vacuum gauge. Another spent six hours to find a bad relay; probably found in minutes with infrared. IDK, seems like they get tunnel vision after years of working on cars. Maybe due to fatigue. Like they never take time off.
We all get tunnel vision on occasion
Because it's complicated! When you have 2 o 3 systems related problems and from each system, you can have 5-7 posible causes that could give you 3-4 symptoms that are similar between the a few other systems. Now you have possible 10- 21 problems with 6-12 symptoms that relate to the one you have. Now what route will you pick to go? Usually the easiest first. Then, the one with a replacing part that is not working properly, then back to diagnostic.. pick another route. Technically, it is called "elimination process" and it's only bypassed by experience of the known issue!
But pattern failures are a thing
Never get time off*
Check the PIP TFI on the distributor or the firewall.
If it is a failed driver in the ICM it doesn't hurt to do a current ramp of the coil after replacement. Found a couple of shorted coils this way. But usually they just die because of excessive heat.
100%!
I once helped a friend of mine replace a pickup in his distributor because his car wouldn't start, when all it was was the wire that went to the main fuse block had come out of his clamp-on battery terminal that he had literally just installed the day before it quit running. Why he didn't notice it is beyond me.
Good example for a reason to learn these testing methods!
Dang ol scope on a rope, one of my favorite tools.
So that would mean you would need an ignition module, right, or maybe a crank/timing sensor.
Module or crank sensor or wiring issue correct
You can get a ton of flicker from the cranking. Especially if the battery is low after some knucklehead cranked the piss out of it. Take your test light switch it from your ground to your positive on your battery terminal take your probe put it on the brown wire it should clearly flicker on and off when cranking.. as controlling the ground side of the circuit if it doesn’t your module is not working drill down find out why.
Recognized easily my comparing coil positive and negative like I showed.
Dan is the man
Exactly. I repair NYC subway cars and some of the part swapping that makes no sense is laughable. Doors don't open, no power at key switch on any pin guy says let's change the switch????? I told him you go ahead and change the switch I'm not doing that I'll continue looking at the wiring diagram to see where we're losing the voltage. I go to work the next day and have stupid comments about changing a switch unnecessarily from the supervisor 😡. I told him I didn't change the switch my partner did and it's not my job to convince my job partner not to do stuff that makes no sense. I told him once I'm not going to repeat myself he can change whatever he wants.
Scanner Danner...the best.
Need to hear the rest of that
Link to the full video is scrolling on the bottom of the screen as the short plays
@ScannerDanner appreciation
Id say rotation of the engine is not detected so it wont release a spark. Probably crank sensor. Not sure on this engine, but many other cars work like this.
Never heard it explained like that .. 😂 but yeah .. that’s right . ❤
Keeping it simple
Control from negative pluse. Right?
Yes, coil negative is the control circuit and it is a switched ground
Always forget this one!
I always look for cam and crank signals
Not to change the subject but I have a 2003 Kawasaki motorcycle, ZRX1200R. For a long while, the bike wouldn't start. I checked and checked and replaced everything I could. Turned out it was just a loose ground connection. I'm not a fan of electrical stuff. At all.
It's been so many years since I've used to test light.
Time to bring it back! It is such a valuable tool in so many circumstances! Especially on modern systems
That depends at the system. Distributor system turns. But not distributor system crank sensor or ECU no signal looking at a shortage
Nice to know Triple H has gainful employment after wrestling!
You know Pauls the real deal because he doesn't need a diagram to do everything, I bet ya he can diagnose most things without going over to the computer and looking up service info.
Shit you not I just read this in your book and bam !! Awesome vid paul
Crank angle sensor
"I am assuming" ???
Did you just like your own comment? Lol
If you knew anything about what I'm doing, even if I assumed wrong on which wire was coil positive (which i didn't) , it doesn't matter because both circuits were the same, which means NO control!
Well as a 30 year Mechanic, 9 1/2 times out of 10 it is the coil so that's why the owner usually opts to change it themselves instead of paying much more for a shop to do it. When they find out it didn't fix it then they bring it to us
Your numbers are severely skewed and your vision is very narrow . It most definitely is not a bad coil 9.5 times out of 10 when you have no spark
EEC-IV, distributor, no spark, coil power.... TFI module burned out. Is it remote mounted, or still bolted to the distributor?
The point of why I posted this clip is I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach.
If you want to know what was actually wrong with this truck, the full video is linked in the short. Thanks!
Dwelltime coil saturation, and then discharge open circuit.. it’s not easy being cheesy
Great info !
"Because you don't know any better..." Just like half the mechanics out there today (and that's being generous).
Next check your crankshaft position sensor.
Yeah, like the ECU or ECM.
Crank sensor or cam sensor ??
Check the ignition module and/or pip sensor.
With no coil control, an input issue is one of the next steps to address. Nice job
@leethomas9198 I've learned alot about my car... what is a pip sensor??
@pamelavance648 it's a hall effect distributor pick-up signal that Ford called a PIP (profile ignition pick-up) so don't let the soecific name throw you off
Pick up coil , or ing moud
Ask yourself, "What killed the coil driver in the first place?", then check the coil primary for a short or heat damage.....just in case. Never forget cause and effect.
The test light was my first sign to stop watching this video a diag it proper
Shows your ignorance
@ not really. I wouldn’t even be in there with a multi meter. You have a component that triggers in milliseconds how can you expect to see that trigger on anything other than a scope… test light is only good for checking the constant.
@RobbieMK5 at least you understand how fast this control signal is, but you are still ignorant of the value of a good old fashion incandescent test light in this application.
th-cam.com/users/shorts7ooRXnEufFI?feature=share
@@ScannerDanner no I still use one a lot good for loading up circuits that need current draw to test. Also use it to see quality of grounds, and quick tests to see where voltage is and isn’t but using it on certain things just doesn’t make sense to me…
@RobbieMK5 did you watch the video link? It's a bad coil on that one and we see coil negative control with the test light. I'm not saying it is better than a scope but it is an accurate test in all circumstances except when you have a shorted primary winding in the ignition coil. But I address that in this one:
th-cam.com/video/p68w9CJG00g/w-d-xo.html
Why would you have power to ground terminal.
It is a switched ground and it is not grounded with the key on. Also, it is a low resistance primary winding (1-2 ohms) so there isn't much of a voltage drop across it with my test light
I'm no mechanic but what does it mean when you say control?
"Control" is the term applied to any output circuit that a module is going to turn on or off.
And a noid test light is best to use because of the low current draw. Right?
An incandescent style test light only for this. An LED type would be cooked.
@@ScannerDanner
12vdc would definitely cook a 3 vdc LED
Ok u got me thinking.. The pulse going to the injectors would require a noid light for the fact of the injector resistance is so low that a regular incandescent bul would be to much resistance. Right? I’m asking because I’m not 100% sure..
I had a bad ECM last week.....caught me out 🙄
im no master of how things work but im pretty sure a ground is almost always black and also if your hooked to negative and probing negative if it does light up das bad
Not in this case. These are not actual ground wires that would all be black. Each control wire is an individual wire that goes back to the engine control computer. Each cylinder has its own individual control wire, so they will all be different colored wires.
I have the same craftsman test light
His test light brand was OTC, not Craftsman.
@@likits1999craftsman used to make this exact light. I had one back in the day
Coils rarely go out the ignition module is a more common issue to go out
What's more common is not relevant to what I am trying to teach people
@apolinarponce4506, I had a coil pack go bad on 02 ford f150, 4.2 v6 I don't know how I found out after I had to extract a broken spark plug and when I fixed it put the plug wire back on and found out the coil pack was going bad
What causes high voltage to an ignition coil on a 98 vhevy silverado 1500
What is your voltage? What are you measuring? And under what conditions?
I don't know but it sparks and it starts but sometimes I have to turn it over 2 or 3 times and the code I get is for high voltage to ignition coil
@@ScannerDanner but if I let the fuel pump cycle most of the time it starts right up without throwing the code
The MAN!!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm shocked at how many techs I'm trying to help that don't have a old fashion test light... so much value out of such a cheap tool.
They're starting to no make the incandescent bulbs! That's why OTC stopped making this light
I see you at the Ford would be pick up in the distributor
ICM next check
They would install a coil because they are parts replacers. Theory and operation understand is crucial!! Eliminate the waste of time and money by understanding and knowing how to test .
Always check the basics. Far too many throw parts at a system without knowing the issue.
Thank God for OBDII
OBDII doesn't replace this test! Coil drivers fail and still need to be confirmed failures and not a break in a wire. Same test
Engine control module replacement buddy
So you are saying the ECU is shot?
Possibly. Could also be missing a cam/crank sensor input, power/ground, or some other input needed in order to fire the coils...more troubleshooting is needed.
No, necessarily. The wire could be broken between the ecm and coil. My next test would be to test the control side directly from ecm.
Watch the full video when you have a chance.
No coil - control (test light lit constantly)
possibilities:
1. Input problem (cam/crank signals)
2. Ignition module/igniter problem
3. Power or ground issue with the ICM or igniter.
4. If the ECM directly controls the coil, then an ECM driver issue as well as other associated ECM issues (powers, grounds, 5v ref circuits)
5. Open in coil - control wire
What this test proves in 99% of the circumstances is that you do NOT need an ignition coil. And as you saw, the coil was new. Learn this test and you'll never again need to "try a coil" to see if that fixes the no spark issue.
What is the other 1% where this test will mislead you? When the coil primary winding is internally shorted and causes a massive amount of current flow. The coil driver (wherever it lives in. ECM, igniter or ICM) will attempt to limit current to protect itself and the flicker will not be seen even though there truly is coil control. A lab scope and a low amp probe is the only way you'll see that issue. Even an ohmmeter on the coil primary circuit can miss it!
Pickup coil in Distibutor.
Is this the dude from storage wars?
What a crank sensor in it be done with it
Need further testing first smh.
Coil drivers fail (ignition module/igniter) too. And wiring problems also happen as well as many other variables. Check the crank signal next, agree! Change the crank sensor at this stage means you're comfortable rolling the dice and that's not what i do on this channel
I assume you are saying its got a bad ign. cont. module. There shouldnt be power on the negative side
There absolutely will be 12v on coil negative (same as coil positive) with just the key on. It is a ground side switched circuit that is not being grounded yet.
Bad coil winding or bad ignition control module or computer issue
But the brown wire DIMMED in the video, indicating a control
No, that was starter current
@ScannerDanner starter current? It didn't dim when you did the positive side.
You really need something better than a light to see the PWM sent to a coil
@mapax5 sure it did. It was identical. Either way, we are looking for a flickering light, one that is distinctly different than coil positive. You cant let battery voltage drops from high starter current throw you off. And you 100% do not need a different tool to see coil negative control th-cam.com/users/shorts7ooRXnEufFI?feature=share
So what's the problem 😕
Watch the full video linked directly in this short if you want to know. What the actual problem was, is not the point of why I posted this clip. I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach
Crank sensor
Obviously you need to check the distributor cap for cracks and check the points .
Yeah , I'm joking
Ford ran the EEC-IV setup for many years so it's hard to say what vehicle this is. If this is a points style distributor setup, check your gap and clean your contacts and try again. If it's a TFI distributor setup? Honestly, just replace the whole distributor and remote mount the TFI module with a proper heatsink and say goodbye to your Ford spark problems. Also don't buy a cheap aftermarket distributor either, total junk, waste of money.
not the point of why I posted this clip. I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach
@ScannerDanner Good for you
Ignition module or relay went bad
crank sensor
Mexican shops double down, 8 spark plugs, the good ones"
Using a test light. And then saying " im gonna assume" is crazy. Use a dmm.
ignition module is bad most likely
Most likely, it's a cam or crank position sensor. You check those first before blaming the ignition module.
Had a mustang with the same issue.
Ignition control module. Common failure on gm cars and trucks.
Tfi module.
Got s good Voice
Probably a loose gas cap
Wow scrolling through and see a old teacher from rti 😮
😃 What year and what's your name?
@ScannerDanner I don't remember the year 06 I think I graduated but Matt shabella
@@matthewshabella1928 well nice to talk with you again Matt!
That's an OLD Ford. I have 3 EEC-IVs that still run great.
Why when the video starts you have the tester on the spark plug? The power comes from the wire & coil not the spark plug. So you tested incorrectly in your open.
This is on the ignition coil. Watch the full video that is linked in this short!
I might need to research a bit more then come back to the video
I didnt get what the term "control" meant my english is not that good , is it supposed to flicker ? is that wire the output going to the coil
Watch this one! I just created this video for guys like you th-cam.com/video/p68w9CJG00g/w-d-xo.html
Link doesn't work@@ScannerDanner
@@lrconnerth-cam.com/users/shorts7ooRXnEufFI?feature=share
That Was A Free Test. But Will Be $200 Aan Hour In Labor For Him To Fix It. Not Including A 100% Markup On Parts. 😂😂😂😂😂...
$1000 for you
💯💯💯
I see the problem: it has spark plugs!
Biggest ? in the world for me is new vehicle electrics, Designed for the shop to plug into and repair. Gimme a pre 80's car all day long
No signal from the ecu
BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL DIAGNOSTICIAN WAS
QUITE CLUELESS.
That would be correct
Why be stress-inducing about it?
This is stress inducing for you? Lol
Its probably the motorcycle
That looks like an old Ford from here. And if it's got a distributor I'm willing to bet that the pickup inside of the distributor is pooped the bed.
The point of why I posted this clip is I want my followers to understand how to test for coil negative control on ANY two wire coil design, using a simple incandescent test light. Test light flickers you turn left, test light doesn't flicker, you turn right in your diagnostic approach.
@ScannerDanner And I applaud your effort to try to teach. And I would go a step further and explain what the blinking of the test light actually means. You don't even have to go into things like permanent magnet generators or hall effect, analog, and digital signals. Just say the pickup(crank sensor) grounds the primary side of the coil as the engine rotates.
@@sombdywakehicks i do all of that, but not in a 60 second short. This was pulled from a full case study if you're interested
@@ScannerDanner sure man always interested in watching a professional work