Getting your feeds and speeds correct is very important. Sadly I’ve forgotten almost everything I learned about the subject back in the mists of the last century. But I believe you can find feeds and speeds calculator charts online. Essentially, you need to ensure that the material does not advance beyond what the cutting edges can cope with. There are of course upper and lower spindle speeds, as well as cutter surface speeds for each material. Operating within those tolerances, you set the material advance speed to match. Somehow I seem to recall we used our instincts most of the time. But that was after lots of training, and too many boring hours of standing at the same machine, shift after boring shift. Even though we were making experimental aero engine parts, and there was some variation, plus working in various milling, grinding and turning departments, it was nothing like hobby work. After 6 years I had to escape. Now I have a strange nostalgia for such work, but only for myself, and at my pace. This is a nicely executed tool. Thank you for sharing.
Like you I use a lot of hot rolled steal. I'm a pipe fitter by trade and worked at a fab-shop. Most machinists never use the hot rolled, but we use what we got.
I have beed taught that the cutting faces must be offset, to eliminate resonance vibrations. In a case of three cutters, one of them is offset two or three degrees, not 120 equally. And also, you can add a plate behind the inserts to increase, or decrease the angle of attack. I've only made cutting tools for lathes on benchgrinders so far, don't belive me :)
That can be useful on specific tooling with many tips - however it complicates matters as each tooth is now taking a different depth of cut on a 3 tooth cutter - 118, 120 and 122 you have introduced through DoC progression a differential spindle load which can increase spindle bearing wear. Bare in mind I'm not saying you are wrong, just that in 3 tip cutters specifically, it is rarely a good plan
@@artisanmakes: I was curious about how you achieved that setup with the dividing head. So, you used the good ol' eye-crometer? You should show us how it works next time! :)
This is a really great home shop project, good job! Just a suggestion from a guy who learned on mini mills before moving up to bigger mills. If you make cutters made for larger material removal rates (such as a face mill) it really helps with rigidity if you make it’s shank the spindle shank so that you don’t have to put it in a collet. I know that’s not easy, and not as modular if you move up to a bigger machine in the future, but it really does make a huge difference in the cut. Still great work though!
Nice job. One thing I would do is go ahead and grind off the hook that was created by drilling through the back face. Spinning as fast as it does, the flutes will act like a fan and will tend to suck things in where it will be grabbed by those hooks. Whether it's a long chip or an inadvertent shirt sleeve string or shop rag...it's just best not to have anything that will grab like that. Otherwise I like what you did there, nice project.
Yes, I looked at those hooks and was a bit uneasy about them. Now if I am uneasy about something, then that means that it is dangerous and should be dealt with. We shall see what Artisan does or says.
Great video, these kind of projects are a fantastic learning experience! Only thing I'm worried about is the stem/arbor to body transition. It seems like you've machined a groove instead of a nice large radius fillet, making it a breaking/failure point which could send the kinda hefty body flying through the shop.
I decent band saw is not that expensive and it is hands down the fastest way to get stock down to near finish size. I can’t imagine having a shop without one.
That's beautiful! Thank you very much for posting! I'm planning to make a carbide tipped cutter myself for an application where a home-made cutter is much better than off-the-shelf alternatives (milling very deep inside a hole) - watching your video has been a big help!
I like your design, it has got me thinking. That's a stubby shell cutter, I wonder just how stubby it could be made. I have a full size mill and most jobs I get are to big for the mill requiring me to move the part and re-set it up.
you would be chuffed alright. that is a great tool. It must feel good to have the ability to design and manufacture your own tools. I am very impressed.
You could probably use those other inserts where finishing isn't critical for the surface or try your hand at making a 45 deg lathe tool from them. As for the depth of cut for the non aluminum cutters, a slower feed rate should allow you to take more. A power feed on the table axis' should make it much more do able if you have one. But I'm guessing that's been put on the back burner. Hope this helps.
I think the first inserts would be good for cleaning up a "rugged" piece... maybe something rusted or that has scale on it... stuff that would normally eat a 'sharp' carbide insert. Anyways, great video and project.
I'm a bit leary of face mills at the moment, I've blown the gearbox on my mill twice, both times using face mills, both times took 2 months to get repaired under warranty. I'm sticking with endmills for now.
I am not sure which type of hotrolled steel you used, but aluminium inserts and stainless/CrMo/highspeed steel gets tricky. Or that is my experience at least... If I may I would like to encourage you to try the Korloy HA PC9030 inserts. In my opinion they work all the way to ~55Hrc and with non ferrous like plastics. As they are sharp they also work well with less rpm and horsepower. If one goes "all in, full speed" there might be better choises, but with possibility to adapt and slow down they work surprisengly (?) well...
If you want a really good finish on that face mill, most face mills love a low feed and doc with coolant. I'd love to see if that one could get an really good finish.
I make a small face mill similar in design to this one but it uses a slightly different insert tcgt. I would love for you to give one a try and see how it compares to the segt. Awesome work by the way.
I made a similar tools many years ago, the only difference was i turned a number 3 morse taper shank rather that the 20mm diameter. It works and that is the goal of the exercise. Those steel milling inserts looked very iffy, the aluminium ones worked a treat. You should make more tooling, I loved making tools and jigs😊
Man, that tool is just beautiful! Congrats! The only thing I hope is that you won’t advance your knowledge to a point at that you’d build your own band saw… 😳😅
Nice job man! I've tried some carbide inserts (S, C and D types) on a small lathe (Sieg C6) and my conclusion is that the inserts for aluminium are really sharp and they leave a very good finish, for more rough work on steel I used inserts for steel with a sharp edge (dedicated for finishing passes). I also tried inserts for steel dedicated for roughing passes but those doesn't behave well on a small lathe (rigidity issues due to higher cutting force).
@@artisanmakes I use CCGX and SCGX types size 09. Negative rake inserts (second letter N) require a good amount of power and rigidity so those aren't suitable for bench top lathes.
That turned out way better than I was expecting. Those sharper higher rake tools are definitely the way to go with hobby mills. How much HP does it have?
That's a beautiful facemill, and your mill is absolutely chewing through the material. Loved the gold chips. And as you said (paraphrasing), looks like a bought one! :)
Very Nice and good that you keep things where it is still affordable. You often see people starting a good channel but over time with sponsorships it goes beyond affordable at least for me.👏
I wonder how far back you could tilt the inserts to make cutting geometry even sharper, probably until there is just some clearance angle left in the back.
Sounds like a Upgrading the Sieg to 1.5kw vid is upcoming :) Still nice I do run a Opti 20vl with a 3kw Servo with a 6 Insert Boehlerit Shell Mill with up to 3 mm depth.
Tpg322 insert based facemills are fantastic on small mills. Not sure why you would think they simply "wouldn't cut well" on your machine, but I can tell you they will work better than an APKT and most SEHT based tools on a small mill.
Absolutely beautiful tool Seems like you will need to upgrade the motor on that mill to see what it can do I am not sure but can you be called a toolmaker since you've made a really nice tool?
Nice tool, and the SEHT polished inserts leave beautiful finishes in Alu. Have you tried chamfering with it? Mass stock removal, and then a quick pass around the perimeter and deburring is reduced by at least 50%.
There is a chance that by tilting inserts with such geometry you might cause excessive downward pull on the tool. Will not matter on light loads though.
on behalf of all the engineers and designers "no we will not design things that can be made, get a 9 axis machining center"
Seriously DFM is overrated. Kidding, we should always think about how to make it.
We need a "Tell you what" counter.
I think I’ve been watching too much king of the hill recently:)
@@artisanmakes Tell you what, that's not a bad idea.
Damn it Bobby
There was definitely a hint of a hwhat in there
Thats actually a really impressive design challenge! You should definitely heat treat/cold blue it to finish it off!
Plus there is the challenge of making your own and the experience you'll gain.
Priceless.
Getting your feeds and speeds correct is very important.
Sadly I’ve forgotten almost everything I learned about the subject back in the mists of the last century. But I believe you can find feeds and speeds calculator charts online.
Essentially, you need to ensure that the material does not advance beyond what the cutting edges can cope with. There are of course upper and lower spindle speeds, as well as cutter surface speeds for each material. Operating within those tolerances, you set the material advance speed to match.
Somehow I seem to recall we used our instincts most of the time. But that was after lots of training, and too many boring hours of standing at the same machine, shift after boring shift.
Even though we were making experimental aero engine parts, and there was some variation, plus working in various milling, grinding and turning departments, it was nothing like hobby work. After 6 years I had to escape. Now I have a strange nostalgia for such work, but only for myself, and at my pace.
This is a nicely executed tool. Thank you for sharing.
Like you I use a lot of hot rolled steal. I'm a pipe fitter by trade and worked at a fab-shop. Most machinists never use the hot rolled, but we use what we got.
I have beed taught that the cutting faces must be offset, to eliminate resonance vibrations. In a case of three cutters, one of them is offset two or three degrees, not 120 equally. And also, you can add a plate behind the inserts to increase, or decrease the angle of attack. I've only made cutting tools for lathes on benchgrinders so far, don't belive me :)
That can be useful on specific tooling with many tips - however it complicates matters as each tooth is now taking a different depth of cut on a 3 tooth cutter - 118, 120 and 122 you have introduced through DoC progression a differential spindle load which can increase spindle bearing wear.
Bare in mind I'm not saying you are wrong, just that in 3 tip cutters specifically, it is rarely a good plan
Good stuff, man! I like that you gave it that cool factor and I especially got a kick out of the compound angle setup on the dividing head.
Cheers man, precision eyeballing like never before :)
@@artisanmakes: I was curious about how you achieved that setup with the dividing head. So, you used the good ol' eye-crometer? You should show us how it works next time!
:)
Set up with a protractor and roughly swept with a dial indicator. The angles weren’t too important
This is a really great home shop project, good job! Just a suggestion from a guy who learned on mini mills before moving up to bigger mills. If you make cutters made for larger material removal rates (such as a face mill) it really helps with rigidity if you make it’s shank the spindle shank so that you don’t have to put it in a collet. I know that’s not easy, and not as modular if you move up to a bigger machine in the future, but it really does make a huge difference in the cut. Still great work though!
I tell you what... that's a pretty impressive tool you made there with the lathe and mill that you have.
Seriously, we'll done!
Nice job 👍. You will be getting really good at vacuuming as a bonus ! These things are just the messiest tool in the workshop.
Nice job. One thing I would do is go ahead and grind off the hook that was created by drilling through the back face. Spinning as fast as it does, the flutes will act like a fan and will tend to suck things in where it will be grabbed by those hooks. Whether it's a long chip or an inadvertent shirt sleeve string or shop rag...it's just best not to have anything that will grab like that. Otherwise I like what you did there, nice project.
Yes, I looked at those hooks and was a bit uneasy about them. Now if I am uneasy about something, then that means that it is dangerous and should be dealt with. We shall see what Artisan does or says.
Welcome to the club of tool makers! That one in particular could become a bestseller 😊
Great video, these kind of projects are a fantastic learning experience!
Only thing I'm worried about is the stem/arbor to body transition. It seems like you've machined a groove instead of a nice large radius fillet, making it a breaking/failure point which could send the kinda hefty body flying through the shop.
Excellent job, very impressive.
The aluminum inserts are definitely helping the lower powered machine thanks to the high cut angles.
Sharp inserts like that work well on titanium as well. A real bonus for set ups that are not rigid
Very excellent and practical. Thank you❤️👍🙏
So satisfying to build your own tools!
I decent band saw is not that expensive and it is hands down the fastest way to get stock down to near finish size. I can’t imagine having a shop without one.
That's beautiful! Thank you very much for posting!
I'm planning to make a carbide tipped cutter myself for an application where a home-made cutter is much better than off-the-shelf alternatives (milling very deep inside a hole) - watching your video has been a big help!
Love the cross slide power feed :)
Thanks for sharing this experience. That gives me the idea to try myself.
I like your design, it has got me thinking. That's a stubby shell cutter, I wonder just how stubby it could be made. I have a full size mill and most jobs I get are to big for the mill requiring me to move the part and re-set it up.
You have absolutely outdone yourself this time. That part looks and works fabulously. Nice job!
Great stuff, one small tip, you should always feed against the fast jaw, that gives maximum rigidity. Cheers.
Those high rake inserts are what came with with my Tormach superfly fly cutter
Gday, you have nailed it, bloody awesome build, the mill handles it with no problems at all, very impressive mate, cheers
you would be chuffed alright. that is a great tool. It must feel good to have the ability to design and manufacture your own tools. I am very impressed.
Отличная работа!
That's cool as heck. You've really got these hobby machines dialed in!
You could probably use those other inserts where finishing isn't critical for the surface or try your hand at making a 45 deg lathe tool from them. As for the depth of cut for the non aluminum cutters, a slower feed rate should allow you to take more. A power feed on the table axis' should make it much more do able if you have one. But I'm guessing that's been put on the back burner.
Hope this helps.
I think the first inserts would be good for cleaning up a "rugged" piece... maybe something rusted or that has scale on it... stuff that would normally eat a 'sharp' carbide insert.
Anyways, great video and project.
Let's face the fact that this is a very cool project 😎
Have you considered making the R8 shank as part of the tool? It may help with rigidity and concentricity
The high rake aluminium inserts do tend to work well in the smaller lower horsepower machines.
They are surprisingly durable too. Better than I expected when using them on steel.
Nice work definitely put a gun blue on it
A really nice job . It seems it is the way to go since the stuff being sold in the stores are just not up to the task .
With your pretty meager setup, your results are very impressive. Great looking tool.
Congratulations, that's a great result!
Very nicely done! You made it seem simple.
Wow looks really good, store quality 👌
A second version could include a variable index geometry to help break up harmonics!
Great job on this tool!
Good project. Good editing and good narration.
Nice shell mill and nice video. I liked the Solidworks part also.
This tool came out very amezing! Godd job!
I'll tell you what: that's some pretty impressive chips! 😁
I'm a bit leary of face mills at the moment, I've blown the gearbox on my mill twice, both times using face mills, both times took 2 months to get repaired under warranty. I'm sticking with endmills for now.
I am not sure which type of hotrolled steel you used, but aluminium inserts and stainless/CrMo/highspeed steel gets tricky. Or that is my experience at least...
If I may I would like to encourage you to try the Korloy HA PC9030 inserts. In my opinion they work all the way to ~55Hrc and with non ferrous like plastics. As they are sharp they also work well with less rpm and horsepower. If one goes "all in, full speed" there might be better choises, but with possibility to adapt and slow down they work surprisengly (?) well...
If you want a really good finish on that face mill, most face mills love a low feed and doc with coolant. I'd love to see if that one could get an really good finish.
I make a small face mill similar in design to this one but it uses a slightly different insert tcgt. I would love for you to give one a try and see how it compares to the segt. Awesome work by the way.
As good as always!
Can You please share the angles it will be a great tool for my work shop.
Cheers, great project. Thanks for sharing.
I made a similar tools many years ago, the only difference was i turned a number 3 morse taper shank rather that the 20mm diameter. It works and that is the goal of the exercise. Those steel milling inserts looked very iffy, the aluminium ones worked a treat. You should make more tooling, I loved making tools and jigs😊
Making tooling is for sure a lot of fun
Great job on this. I admit I had my doubts in the beginning of the video. But I was very impressed with how it turned out.
Agreed - he's done a stellar job and the results speak for themselves. Loved watching the facemill develop from the blank bar of steel.
I'm impressed!!
Look great, performs great, awesome design and build 👍
Very interesting project and nice results.
Before you used it, you really should've set it for rebuild parameters. Nice workmanship! Great hands on learning!
man you did a good job on this project. real good job.
I'm glad your design worked for you!
Bravo! 😊
6:36 disposable rag exactly the one we had at home.
Man, that tool is just beautiful! Congrats!
The only thing I hope is that you won’t advance your knowledge to a point at that you’d build your own band saw… 😳😅
Great build, great design and awesome video.
Thanks for sharing.
Now this was awesome! The results are incredible and for machines like yours, as you said, its really a game changer!
Nice job man! I've tried some carbide inserts (S, C and D types) on a small lathe (Sieg C6) and my conclusion is that the inserts for aluminium are really sharp and they leave a very good finish, for more rough work on steel I used inserts for steel with a sharp edge (dedicated for finishing passes). I also tried inserts for steel dedicated for roughing passes but those doesn't behave well on a small lathe (rigidity issues due to higher cutting force).
Neat, I’ve found d shaped inserts work the best, whether they be The generic dcmt or sharper DCGT. Never had too much luck with cnmg or similar
@@artisanmakes I use CCGX and SCGX types size 09. Negative rake inserts (second letter N) require a good amount of power and rigidity so those aren't suitable for bench top lathes.
You could make an identical tool and have the tougher inserts for roughing and the better ones for finnishing.
You did I hell of a job on that great work
Fantastic tool you will get a lot of use out of it thanks for sharing cheers.
Love your videos, I know nothing about machining or mills but I can't stop watching
Careful, it's addictive and before you know it you will be wanting your own workshop set up.
@@markfryer9880 I can feel my need to spend money taking over
Great design and build. Job well done 👍
That turned out way better than I was expecting. Those sharper higher rake tools are definitely the way to go with hobby mills. How much HP does it have?
I tell ya what, that's a nice looking face mill
That's a beautiful facemill, and your mill is absolutely chewing through the material. Loved the gold chips. And as you said (paraphrasing), looks like a bought one! :)
Everytime you say "I tell you what", I envision Hank Hill from King of the Hill :)
Outstanding! Love the compact single piece design 🙂
Lots of geometry there. Well done.
Well, I'll tell you what! That looks pretty good :)
Hank Hill approves.
Very impressive.
Very Nice and good that you keep things where it is still affordable. You often see people starting a good channel but over time with sponsorships it goes beyond affordable at least for me.👏
I wonder how far back you could tilt the inserts to make cutting geometry even sharper, probably until there is just some clearance angle left in the back.
very good job. Greetings from Argentina 🇦🇷👍
Brilliant..... might just make one of those... 🙂
Absolutely 💯 mate 👍
Nice work man
Sounds like a Upgrading the Sieg to 1.5kw vid is upcoming :)
Still nice I do run a Opti 20vl with a 3kw Servo with a 6 Insert Boehlerit Shell Mill with up to 3 mm depth.
Good work as usual. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Year a very interesting video and a very advanced project you’ve realised. Well done! Please continue with content like that.
Tpg322 insert based facemills are fantastic on small mills. Not sure why you would think they simply "wouldn't cut well" on your machine, but I can tell you they will work better than an APKT and most SEHT based tools on a small mill.
I have seen these used on a mill slightly larger than mine and the person seemed to have to take light cuts with TPG style inserts.
Really cool looking tool! Thanks for sharing, I really enjoyed :)
Awesome project!
Love this guys videos always shocking to see the better content creators have nowhere near the numbers they should have but Inshallah that will change
Take a look at the Astra-Werke channel.
Good, well shot, varied (and unusual) content, amusing presentation. Guy can't catch a break. Don't know why.
Fair play mate good design and good execution. It must be so satisfying to be able to make your own tooling to the specs that you want.
Very impressive Great job.
Absolutely beautiful tool
Seems like you will need to upgrade the motor on that mill to see what it can do
I am not sure but can you be called a toolmaker since you've made a really nice tool?
Daniel Jankovych that is what my sister-in-law said to me last night!!
Nice tool, and the SEHT polished inserts leave beautiful finishes in Alu. Have you tried chamfering with it? Mass stock removal, and then a quick pass around the perimeter and deburring is reduced by at least 50%.
No I havent bit I will soon
There is a chance that by tilting inserts with such geometry you might cause excessive downward pull on the tool. Will not matter on light loads though.
Impressive 👌🏼
Really well done. A nice new tool. Have a great weekend.
brilliant!