Diving Deeper Down The Oil Filter Rabbit Hole- Here's What I Should Have Said
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- There were a couple of things on our previous video on oil filters that were not completely accurate. While we stand by our overall conclusions, we thought it was important to go back and correct and clarify the things we did say.
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The pressure is regulated at the pump, not the filter. You still don’t get it.
The differential pressure valve isn’t a regulator. It’s a bypass.
Pleas spend some time with Fleetgard or some other manufacturer. You’re still clueless.
I've done countless videos on all aspects of oiling systems including circuitry through the engines, pumps and specifically how to tune pressure with the oil pressure bypass spring IN THE PUMP.
All those videos are still up there, if you search.
This is one of those things where I'm only responsible for what I say, NOT what you hear...
the pressures is regulated at the pump by a bypass valve. youre getting hung up on formalities. the valve in the filter bleeds oil past the filter media to regulate pressure, it bypasses the filter. the bypass in the pump regulates pressure by bleeding excess pressure to the sump. they both effectively the same thing but the oil pump's valve regulates the pressure to the oiling system, the one in the filter maintains that pressure in the circumstance that the filter media is restricting oil
Alan, regardless of the content of anyone's posts, yours included, your addition of the little ad-hom insult at the end just tells the rest of us, right or wrong, that your main intention is to make yourself feel smart, not to clarify any facts.
It appears his point is what happens in the filter. How it shuts down filtering to allow oil flow. Not the actual oil pressure. Maybe you should get off your high horse and listen.
Uncle Tony does get it he's very aware of the spring in the oiling system of a V8 engine he's discussing oil filters not the internal engine controls very insulting to Tony and his loyal viewers who know a thing or two about auto engines
A real man admits his errors, the others find excuses. Thanks for all the great videos. Best Regards - Mike
What's your excuse?
Don't have enough room here to list them 🙂 !!
Sure you do.@@mikelaumaillier9271
sorry but bypass of filter only work when yor filter is clooged,, if you do a regualr amintenace to your engine it will never happen
@@mikelaumaillier9271 Carry on.
You never fail to correct yourself Tony, even over the slightest detail. That's integrity. I'm also down for the count for a while. 60 year old backs hey 🤣
My back's 71 years old, and I never give it a break. Jack LaLane taught us whenever you feel a pulled muscle or even a twinge, isolate the muscle involved and begin slowly stretch and hold, then release, and do it over and over. Gently!
Does that really work? 66 year old asking!
I use to think getting old was just people making excuses for laziness. Now that I’m turning 40 and have developed type 2 diabetes it makes getting a project on a car ten times harder than it did when I was 20 and full of steam lol.
@@outlawbillionairez9780 I use to watch his juicer infomercials all the time 😂
@@gerhardbraatz6305 if you pull or stretch (hyper extend) muscles in your back, I recommend lying on your side, and moving slowly, bend forward till you figure out what muscle (s) is the problem. Focus on the movement that stretches that muscle. Try to single it out. It's hard when you're hurtin, but you can press in spots till you locate it. Then it's just stretch/release. Get comfortable. Takes a while.
Great display of humility Uncle Tony for clarifying your statements from your first video. The last two episodes you have posted on the function of an oil filter during operation have been very educational as all of your episodes are 👍
This right here is what makes Uncle Tony the absolute BEST. Everyone makes mistakes, but only those with honor and humilitywill man up, admit their error, then explain things correctly. Way to go, Uncle Tony!
I agree 👍
Cool that you corrected this, and in such a cheerful fashion I might add. Hope you get well soon!
Lots of respect uncle Tony. I've been watching and learning from you for years now. Takes a real man to admit when he's wrong. I'll continue to watch and learn for hopefully years to come.
Tony my sympathies, I'm your age a retired mechanic and fought back problems since I was 19, I get it!
It takes a big person to admit when they goofed, you’re a good man Uncle Tony. We appreciate that. Love your channel!
I've got a couple of the Obergs like yours, it's the Tattletale model, that threaded hole in the side mounts a sensor that warns you when it's restricted and needs to be checked and cleaned. I've also got one of the racing models with the sandwich plate in the middle and double screens. Even with the remote kit, lines and fittings they're only a few hundred and well worth the cost for any high performance engine.
Integrity and the willingness to make a correction when you are (slightly) wrong is another reason why I will keep watching UTG. Great job Tony and team!
Here we go again for round two 🤣
Round three in the back yard 👌
Hope your feel better soon Uncle Tony
Wow, thats a fine mesh screen. Aircooled VW screens only filter out anything larger than a bird
Only if it doesn't skip past the bypass in the block lol
😂😂😂
The Oberg is something you might put on a dragster. Not as Good as a stock full flow filter at cleaning oil. The full flow filter is very good at removing engine damaging abrasives. I have used toilet paper filters for over 60 years.
Try a FilterMag. Been using them for years. Cut open the filter after oil change and the trapped metal particulates are captured on the side of the filter. Awesome product. Give it a try and a review.
Any magnet will work, don’t throw away your old microwaves without removing the nice strong magnets from the magnetron - those are strong assed magnets strap one of them to the side of your filter
@kellismith4329 sure that'll work. I used a bunch of neodymium magnets I bought for $50 off Amazon to put on my filter, while the FilterMags were on backorder. They worked well, but are nowhere near as convenient as the FilterMags. It cost almost $100 for 2 of the FilterMags, but I think the convenience is worth it for me.
I did notice those tires too. They looked like jeep grand Cherokee factory rims to me. 90s era
You still have made me look at filters differently though. Thanks for your videos on the subject. Garage 54 did a clear filter mod to see how a filter flowed and you can see it flows though the media. I don't remember if they measured pressure though.
Informative videos. The only thing I would add to the discussion is installing a magnetic drain plug; these work great on my motorcycles and on the cars as well.
I have never really had a thing for motorcycles but Ryan Fortnine is absolutely fascinating. His videos are the most artsy gearhead themed videos out there. The Quinten Tarantino of zoomy things.
Great info UT! People obsess about oil filters way too much IMO. I try to always use an OEM filter, they most times are less than all these other aftermarket ones except for the cheapo ones. I have Fords right now, E350 Van and Taurus and buy the Motorcraft filters for about 5 bucks each. You can't get better for the money. Made in the USA too! Change them often and you will seldom have an issue.
You Should have talked about the Full Flow "System 1" Brand Full Flow No Bypass Race Oil Filter and the Full Race Full Flow Spin-On Full Race Oil Filters like Moroso's 2 Qt. High Micron Rating Fram PH373 Equivalent (that does Not have a Internal Bypass) especially used in Dual Spin-On Filter Mounts so there is not restriction when these two 2 qt. filters are run in Parallel indicated by no pressure drop before and after the dual filter mount at max oil volume and pressure. You should do another correction video.
Tiny details and terminology aside your initial presentation was correct. I knew this would get a clarification video, always class uncle Tony. If you've been around engines you already knew the filter doesn't save your motor when big metal becomes small metal.
I noticed the wheels in the background too, from an older Jeep Grand Cherokee I believe. Hope your back gets better soon, take care of yourself UT.
I swear Peg is somewhere saying "you don't need a f'n oil filter"
I would agree that oil pressure is affected by the oil filter. The oil filter acts as a regulator. A big oil leak could in theory also effect oil pressure.. Also it seems if a guy would want the best filtration, then the oil filter would need to somehow be inside the engine vs connected from the outside. I picture a oil filter that slides inside the block so that all the oil has no choice but to pass through the filter before being allowed to circulate through the rest of the engine. But then that would also create its own problems.
If you block the bypass in the Oberg you can blow the woven mesh apart, seen it happen twice.
It took me a few videos before I realized that this was Tony Defeo, THE Tony Defeo that was responsible for me owning 4 fox body Mustangs since 1993. I will always remember the line "the car ran in the 13.40's at 101 mph thru the cars stock 3.08's and on street tires"
Thanks for clearing this up. Your explanation makes sense and it is new info for me. (I love to learn) Hope you back feels better soon.
This is why I watch you UT you get to the truth and if you are wrong you still get to the truth….. Thanks UT
The sbc oil filter bypass is built into the filter mount, not part of the filter.
Donaldson used to have detailed specs on their website, thread diameter and pitch, bypass valve opening pressure, external dimensions, etc.
I believe those are volume relief valves, not pressure.
@@TheBrokenLife The specifications list opening pressure in psi, etc.
I also found wix filter website has specs as well.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 I was talking about the relief in the motor. The specs you're seeing for the filters are, indeed, over-pressure relief. Some motors use both.
Digging deeper... it looks like there are AC Delco filter fitments for "small blocks" that go either way. I believe the first SBCs had cartridge filters, so those would rely on the bypass in the motor for all purposes since that's all they had. It's possible that GM carried that design intent long into the future.
With the exception of the Duramax diesels , if a GM vehicle uses an imperial 13/16-16 oil filter the bypass is in the block, same with vehicles that use M18x1.5mm filters.
@@brandonupchurch7628 Yes that's true as far as I know. What are the details for the anti-drainback valve? PF25/PF35 don't have anti-drainback but PF52(metric) does. I guess PF52 anti-drainback isn't necessary in some cases, but it's there.
Fun with filters!
Great info again Tony. Makes you wonder why the oil system's pressure relief valve is in the pump and not after the filter...
The old Cadillac 331 in my 55 Caddy has a by-pass filter system that just pulls a small amount of oil from the system to be filtered. Kind of like the Luberfiner bypass filters big trucks used to use.
Cuz what if the filter gets plugged ?
Yep, and the big trucks stopped using them around 45 years ago. I wonder why?
Now that we've gotten past that and done all this discussion, it seems like for performance applications someone could come up with a pre filter screen that could take care of some of the larger chunks in a high RPM failure to help deal with this issue. Sort of like the pickup screen on the oil pump but a finer screen than that and something that can be serviced without dismantling the engine.
Edit: Lol I just watched up to the point before you discussed the Olburg filter! Looks like someone's already got a solution.
Thanks for the update. My response yesterday was related to typical "stock" lubrication systems for daily drivers. I do "stand corrected" in agreeing that for a modified (higher flow - GPM, higher pressure - PSI) lubrication system used to generate adequate oil film thickness in journal (non-rolling {ball, roller. spherical roller} element) bearings for performance motors the oil filter will typically not be filtering because the filter media "capacity" to filter has not been increased also. You are correct. Also, to fill in a gap that I didn't address was (very) cold starts in the daily street driver - their filters probably will be in by-pass mode until the oil temperature rises enough that the oil viscosity reduces enough to permit the (oil pump/engine RPM) oil pump output flow rate to pass through the media.
My apologies for my truncated response previously.
One of the biggest reasons for the filter bypass is so if the filter gets clogged it opens and does not starve the engine of oil. If the filter didn't have this feature lots of folks who don't change the oil regularly would be buying engines. In the world of hydraulics, you can buy no bypassing filters and also spec what particle size will pass them.
Wix racing filters don't have a bypass in the filter . Also you can delete or plug the oem bypass that the filter screws on to. That's wat we do on race engines
How does oil pressure on the outside of the filter push it towards the big spring? If anything, it would push it the other way.
Get well soon Tony 🤕🩹
I'm glad to see that you're willing to admit that you made a mcsteak in how you represented something: everyone fucks up, the important thing is how you deal with it.
Always a stand up guy. Glad you corrected those few things so that I understand them correctly.
I saw the initial filter video about 4 or 5 days ago. I went out to the garage that night and cut open 2 fram oil filters. One from my 2011 Impala 3.5 and one from a SBC 350. Neither had a spring in the bottom, just a light sheet metal stand to prop up the media, but both had the crappy cardboard on top and bottom. About 2 years ago all the auto parts stores in my area, dropped fram oil filters cold, all at once. I switched to fram, when it became impossible to get the A/C Delco filters I had always used. I am switching to WIX filters which have metal top and bottom of the media, and they have a burst strength of 260 psi. I have also blocked the bypass valve in the spin on pad as well. I never gave it much thought for my basically warmed over stock engines, now I can't stop wondering and searching for info on this. Keep it up thanks.
I would like to see more on that oil filter. Thanks for the video.
I worry about my poor ole truck i pull trailers with. But its made it this long so either the filter works or that dirty ole ls just eats whatever. Thank you for the fix! Ive never heard of that filter style!
Thank you for this video you brought somthing to my attention that I have never really thought about.
what if you ran a larger oil filter, with alot more media volume so that you are not overwhelming the filter, this would keep the pressure differential down and allow all the oil to pass through the filter. Get a filter that they use on tractor trailer units and relocate that filter to where you have room to put it.
What do you guys think about putting on 2 regular filters, but plumbing them in parallel? That would cut the flow rate through each filter in half, and probably keep them from going into bypass during high flow/high rpm conditions. Thanks for all the cool videos by the way!
Long ago I was hospitalized for a week with a back injury. The injury returned once in a while. Uncle might be surprised just how much he can do if he wears a leather 2-3 inch leather weightlifting belt. It's not comfortable, but it helps a lot.
My 70-year-old tractor has a fuel filter that looks a lot like the Oberg oil filter, only much smaller. Keeps the rust flakes, sticks, and stones out.
Uncle Tony, you have a lot of knowledge about v8 engines. You be you. I've dedicated about 35 years to cars. Customers who want something for nothing don't pay the bill's
For metal to end up in the filter wouldnt it have to get past the pickup screen and the oil pump?
Seems very unlikely anything big would come through there?
Would magnets in the oil pan be useful to catch stuff?
There are magnets to put on the filter but might be a gimmick?
You clearly haven't seen inside many engines. Metal spread throughout the engine is NOT a rare sight. Those magnetic plugs are fairly common these days. Not all metals are magnetic. "Big" is relative. That pickup screen is pretty course. Particles don't have to be very big to damage an engine. By the time there are enough particles for any magnet to catch, it's too late. Really "big" pieces usually end up falling to the bottom of the pan and staying there, but pieces that big are the end result of the small pieces.
Thanks for suggesting the screen filter. Screen filters are a viable alternative, but are expensive and need a system install. A quicker less costly method is the Jomar filter which is a spin on with no bypass. The beauty of the Lomar is that it forces all oil through the media, and if you see pressure increrasing along the RPM range, its time to change the filter and/ or find out why it is clogging up.
Jomars usually catch all the debris. I've known people who swear by them. If there is something I am missing, please instruct. Keep up the good work. Its good to see someone who is focused on the bottom line for the average guy instead of the expensive builds.
I have chronic back problems so I feel for you with the back pain.
do you remeber the old toilet paper filters? they used to sell them
Takes a big man to correct himself, thanks Tony for clearing up this matter.
Appreciate the attempt at correction. You got the delta-P part in hand now, but your understanding of the design and operation of the typical canister filter is still wrong. Ain't no way the whole element is actively cycling up and down inside the canister against the lower spring. The bottom spring is there is to provide load of the element up against the underside of the tap plate to seal the outer and inner chambers from each other. The witness marks you see are likely from assembly of the filter - the guts are stuffed (compressed) into the canister and then is mechanically crimped to the tap plate. Also, one never sees any large "chunks" of metal in the filter media because anything that makes it to the media would have to first get sucked in through the oil pump pickup, which has a screen, and then through the pump itself, then at the filter inlet's circular pattern of holes in the filter tap plate. Think about it.
They would likely settle to the bottom of the oil pan more likely, a magnet on the pan would be better
nhra I gave you a thumbs up . Finally I found someone that understands how an oil filter works and what the coil spring is for .
Great job , you also explained the reason for the witness mark .
@@nicnic8357 likewise!
I thought the video last night didn't make sense to me but he corrected himself. Even the best make mistakes, takes a big man to admit it.
Takes a pretty big dog to shit a ton, and an even bigger cat to eat it
@utg so what your saying is since I wiped the cam in my 12 hemi , instead of just doing a cam job I need to complete tear down? That sucks
I bought a 95 mustang gt from a guy he built it himself. It came in carbed 302 HO hydraulic roller. B303 cam, gt40p heads on shorty headers stock 5speed world class tranny with 4:10 rear gears.
Well, the guy did a crap job putting the dog bones in the block. They are used to keep the roller lifters from rotating. To make a long story short... he managed to insert each dogbone into the end of each leg of the spider retainer. It eventually spun a lifter and snapped the roller tip in half. All this happened without wiping out the canshaft lobe. It ran for several miles to get me home. I still have the broken Ford Racing hydraulic roller lifter here in the garage. I bought new lifters and dog bones and correctly installed them. We drove that car hard before eventually selling it for dang good money. We never did find the other half of the broken roller. But I didn't tear the engine down all the way either.
Screen type filters are the way! I like the Pure Power spin on filters for the convenience.
I hope your back improves soon. I'm disappointed that a pump needs around 20 psi just to get the oil through the media. Makes it kind of useless. They should set the bypass higher in that case. I imagine oil that I hot may pass through easier. Years ago I tried one of those toilet paper filters set up as an external filter. Don't remember how well it worked. I imagine it kept the oil cleaner. We also have to remember that filters can't remove the acid buildup in the oil from combustion and this is hard on things too.
It doesn't. It requires very little pressure to push oil through the filtering media. If it's really clogged up such as when not changing the oil filter between oil changes, pressure can increase which can cause enough differential to trigger the bypass in side the oil filter but in many instances, will trigger the oil pump bypass first causing top end damage due to lack of lubrication.
I hate back problems and I actually ended up having surgery because I just couldn’t stand the pain any longer and I’m so glad I did that. Anyway I’m finally getting ready to take the 318 and the small block 727 transmission out and install the 383 727 in the car and get it back on the road.
If you use a large enough filter then you can block off the bypass. All the oil must then go through the filter protecting the engine. In his book,The Chevrolet Racing Engine Bill Jenkins gives details on this.
Moroso makes an screen that fits on top of the oil filter before it screwed on to stop unfiltered big chunks from even going into the oil filter or making it through the by-pass.
So is the oil filter actually doing any "filtering" during a 20 minute break in at 2000rpm? Wouldn't the oil pressure be high during this?
A new oil filter will allow oil to almost free flow through the media with very little pressure so there will never be enough pressure differential to trigger the oil filter bypass. Even with a filter with 5K miles on it, it would not have enough pressure differential to trigger the bypass at such a low rpm.
@@KRTube75 the bypass valve in the end of the cartridge would only operate if the filter element itself was clogged
@@kellismith4329 got it
ok, let’s talk bypass. That spring on the outside of the filter cartridge does nothing but keep the cartridge tight in the housing. It isn’t used as a secondary bypass. It is designed to flex slightly(it’s a spring,duh) but the travel would never be low enough to allow oil to bypass on the top end. Furthermore, most manufacturers use the stamped leaf spring type design, further debunking that theory. The bypass valve, the black rubber type thing attached to a small spring on the inside the filter cartridge, that is the bypass valve. Usually set from 9-22 psi depending on application. Oil is thinner than what we think. Tony is still incredibly incorrect when talking about how much oil gets bypassed.
Good clarifications...now I'm seriously thinking about adding an Oberg filter to my Z06!
Tony, have you watched any Garage 54 here on youtube. I have never seen anyone do what they do to cars..
NO ONE!!!
It's a funny channel, and many of their umm builds are insane and some actually work
I use mechanical oil pressure gauges and frequently see 60 PSI. I never see 20 PSI. Now while I am grateful to have good pressure it now makes me wonder if I ever filter any oil. Just an old man's fancy, but my motto with oil it to buy it cheap and change it often. Buy conventional and change every 1500 miles. Easy to do and helluva lot cheaper than buying a used car nowadays! My fav filters are the CarQuest which are the old original red purolater. The Purolater One filters are ideal for the super thin Synthetic used in modern engines, which I don't have.
Props for owning it and making the correction :)
Really enjoy the videos Uncle tony. That's good information for everyone to know about oil filters. Try valerian root and magnesium for your back when it goes out. Works great for me
The real issue is that when you have a failure in an engine that results in a significant amount of metal particles winding up in the oil, most of them never even make it to the oil filter. Not only do they not get trapped by the actual filter, they don't go through the bypass either. They wind up scattered throughout the engine. I have disassembled engines that had suffered some kind of mechanical failure, but still ran for some time before the failure made itself known or was ran even though it should have been obvious there was a problem. I found fairly severe damage all over the place. Pieces of metal embedded in the crank and con rod bearings throughout the engine, scored crank and cam journals, scored cylinder walls, pieces of metal in various oil passages, laying on top of the heads, and pieces of metal in the oil pan. Pretty much nothing in the filter, and only tiny flecks of metal dust in the oil when it was drained. Once in a while a fairly large piece of metal will come out through the oil drain.
Remember toiler paper oil filters? Back in the '60s and into the early '70s, you could get both empty housings designed to hold a roll of actual toilet paper, which were usually mounted remotely, using oil lines connected to an adaptor installed where the oil filter would normally go, and incorporated an anti drain back valve, like an oil cooler, but you could also buy factory made oil filters that worked and fit just like any other oil filter, but used basically a roll of toilet paper as the filtering media. Very little oil actually made it through these filters, most of it went through the bypass. But enough did to not only remove larger pieces of debris, but literally everything, including the stuff that is normally held in suspension in the oil, turning it dark. They even removed the additives from the oil. They gave the impression that they kept the oil clean longer, because the oil on the dipstick would not turn black nearly as quick. But you were using oil with most of the additives, including detergent, removed. Ford used these filters from the factory for some time. The main problem with them was that if you left one on for too long without changing it, the toilet paper would shred, and you would wind up with a destroyed engine filled with shredded toilet paper.
There was also a time they marketed clear oil that looked like water. The idea being it’d seem super clean and friendly going in.
But, it would very quickly get tinted by the regular gunk in the engine so people thought the oil was junk since it got dirty so quick. Plus can make it hard to see on a dipstick if it’s totally clear. A lot of oil starts off clear and gets a tint added so it has that light tan color.
Most of you guys are so ignorant about oil filters its embarrassing. I have used toilet paper filters since 1963 starting with a Frantz oil cleaner. I went with the top loaders in the 80s. All I have now is Motor Guards Gulf Coasts a Australian Jackmaster Classic and a flat head Ford V8 canister filter with half a roll of VIVA paper towels in it
Full flow filters do what they are designed to do. Remove the engine damaging abrasives. To remove the smaller engine wearing abrasives you must drain the oil or install a depth bypass filter. I dont have a dragster.
great tutorial...makes absolute sense...i like that huge wide screened filter for saving a high-performance engine.
Years ago, the lifters were rapping on my Mum's 383. Changed the oil to solve the problem. Always assumed the bypass malfunctioned. I guess the pressure was too low to push the spring down on the other bypass.
Sometimes, a dirty oil filter (usually from not changing the filter between oil changes) can cause so much backpressure that the oil pump bypass gets triggered instead of the bypass in the oil filter causing insufficient oil pressure to lubricate the lifters and rockers.
Yes, there is much proof that various oil filters cause more “resistance” to flow that it can cause noises - sometimes maybe the finer mesh of the high end filters can cause flow reduction and we could be fooling ourselves paying for them
Tony: you’re digging yourself in deeper.
LOL
lol i had watched the first video, and i was like wow that’s not true at all, and i was glad too see he made a correction video, but now he’s just spewing nonsense he did absolutely no research on.
So what do you recommend for hi performance engines then?
So on diesel truck engines back in the day, we had sock filters. There was a by-pass, but it was external to the filter and filter housing. Now these were big filters. Maybe 8~10" in diameter and 16~20" long ... 100% filtration. If the engine tossed metal, you'd find it in the filter media. These old and very effective filters were replaced on more modern engines with canister or spin-on's. Not such a great deal for the reasons you stated ...
So what to do? Run dual remote spin-on's with 1 qt hydraulic system filters. Enough media area to pass 100% of the oil w/o going into differential mode. And/or run race filters. Much courser media, but they will catch the chunks, and pass oil more easily w/o going into differential mode.
AND, if your engine will handle it (?) w/o sounding like a can of rocks on cold start - go to 0W-30 oil. It's thin enough cold to pass through most media and it's 30 when hot which is what the bearings are looking for 😁
WRONG! I owned one. They were a "bypass' filter that did very little. That's why they quit using them 45 years ago.
We always ran a Oberg on are Dirt Stock Car, 1st thing we would do after a night of racing was check it, one time we checked it it was full of Babbit, we new right away we had something that was about to fail, even though the Motor still ran fine and oil pressure was still normal, we tore it down and found a rod bearing was starting to spin, a set of bearings and gaskets was much cheaper than a rod threw the block
I wonder if modifying the filter mount to connect 2-3 filters in parallel would fix the situation in racing applications. If the restriction of oil flow is cut in half with 2 filters theoretically the differential pressure should be half and the "bypass" spring should be twice as hard to open. The only thing creating the differential pressure is the restrictiveness of the filter media so putting filters in parallel should reduce the resistance/restrictiveness of the filter.
Good point, or maybe a larger oil filter would help
I have a 400 small block Chevy in my Monte and a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I notice when I first crank over the engine cold, it takes a couple of seconds for the gauge to register pressure and I'm guessing it's for reasons that you states around the 8:30 to 8:40 mark. I always crank my engine over with the ignition off until I get good oil pressure just so everything has oil before start.
Where can I get an o berg filter setup?
Intersting to know your daily driver has actually bypassed the cartridge. Winter starts, no warm up?
Time for 2 oil pressure gauges to see whats happening.
Makes you wonder if we should all have an oberg style filter inline with the paper cartridge?
Well I mean you still wind out your daily every now and then. They wouldn't include the bypass if it was never gonna get used
@@jaredlancaster4137 Sure, I wonder if its get used at cold startup and not at the top wnd with hot oil? Need your 2 gauges setup to know that.
Perhaps more filter area would prevent it from bypassing?
As always, a great video Tony. Thankyou. Worth mentioning also that the filter is on the return side of the oil gallery so any crud or metal has already gone through your engine before it goes through the filter media. Sorry!
It should get filtered by the oil pickup gauze
@@nzuncovered1845 The oil pickup gauze will take care of it. Yeah Right! Oil filter media will capture particles of about 30 microns nominal (ie 30 microns across but can be of any length) while good media will capture 30 microns absolute (30 microns length or breadth). Gauze size varies but will be about 100 microns so will capture the big chunks and that is about it. The small bits will still go through the engine and do damage on the way.
@@mrsquariel According to Mobil, the oil filter is on the feed side not the return
@@mrsquariel I think some engines have the filter on the feed side and some have it on the return
Great that you clarified and corrected yourself
An honorable man corrects himself after learning that he was mistaken. Uncle Tony is an honorable man. 👍👌🤘
He didn’t really make a mistake though, what he said was taken in different context and he realized that, he clarified
@@kellismith4329 No, he actually did make a mistake and did NOT correct it. The ONLY purpose of the dome compression spring is to hole the filter element firmly in place. Period. It is not a "differential pressure regulator".
In some engine applications (Isuzu Diesel) there is a second filter, a bypass filter. The results are, much cleaner oil being returned to the sump as smaller particles not filtered by the Full-Flow Filter can now be taken out of the system. These particulates are known to have caused wear in Turbo’s, ( turbine in the turbocharger usually spins at speeds between 80,000 and 200,000 rotations per min.) Cams, and Bearings which the engine can now benefit from their removal. I've only seen them in some diesel applications, but why don't today's god awfully expensive boosted engines use them?
In air cooled beetles you change the tiny 2.5 qltr oil capacity every 3000 miles. And the junk too fine for the screens got pumped into your bearings. 65k miles was the life of a bus engine if not abused, and the cars seed to be 100k before an exhaust valve failed.
Not sure they work the way you think, or as well as you think. Cummins stopped using them in the big engines about 45 years ago.
@@MaxNafeHorsemanship
The information I received from the AMSOL site on bypass filters is what I used to make such a claim. And my 89 NPR with a bypass filter has just keeped chugging.
When I met my wife about 1970 her beetle had just got out of the shop. It swallowed a valve. They told her since the beetle had no filter she needed to come in every 1500 miles for an oil change. Dune buggies and hot VWs had tested the Motor Guard oil cleaner on a dune buggy. I installed one and told her it will need no more oil changes. At 155.000 miles I traded it for a 64 Chevy Malibu convertable. The guy wanted to make a dune buggy. The beetle needs clean oil and regular valve adjustments.
My Mazda diesel pickup came factory equipped with both a full flow filter and a bypass filter. The bypass filter was junk. I replaced it with a Frantz oil cleaner.
The last filter element I bought for the Cummins Fleetguard 750 used pulverized newspapers and wood chips.
Shoutout to fortnine! their videos are better than most films these days.
Funny how tony mentioned the wheels ' I drifted off with the wheel arch/tub cut outs on the belvedere and wondered if removing the wheels were one of the reasons why they were cut off and if the original outer arches were still around to make them clip on or similar ? mind running off on another tangent like been back at school as a kid lol
Thanks Tony, get well soon!
So there's always oil going through the filter. It's just when the filter can't take any more oil through it the balance gets by passed.
If your having back issues then try yoga ( it works for me and Hank Hill ) and you can also try cutting a potato in slices like bread and putting on the location with the pain it works like ice/hot…..sounds weird but it works. And lastly walking a lot like on a treadmill.
And this is why Tony has our respect.
Let's dive deeper . I stand to correct your filter operation . The filter has only 1 bypass . It is the spring and flap on the filter element . When there is a difference in pressure between the filter media outside and a lower pressure on the inside return , the spring pressure is over come and unfiltered oil flows threw the engine . The large coil springs purpose is to hold the filter element against the end plate , to seal the filter element so there is no movement so no oil is allowed to go from the inlet directly to the outlet . All oil that bypasses the filter media flows threw the bypass valve . The oil filter element does not move up and down in the filter metal housing the way you are explaining. I can explain that farther by explaining how hydraulic pressure works .
Exactly! The filter element has equal pressure on all sides which does not allow it to move against the spring pressure. I am not sure why this is so hard for folks to understand. The spring is just to hold the filter element in place. It is basic hydraulics or even pneumatic science! If you have a large balloon with another balloon inside of it that is smaller the smaller balloon just floats as the pressure is equal on all sides. This of course is completely different as to how the differential valve on the bottom of the filter element works but that is a whole different explanation.
THIS^^^
He showed that the extrusion on the end of the cartridge to center it, wore a witness channel into the cannister the same lenth as the spring travel
As I said the filter element does not move up and down . This witness mark is not from moving up and down . The pressure will not move the filter away from the base . I said to explain why it will not moves ,I will need to explain how hydraulic pressure works .
The coil spring is not a bypass valve nor is it a Pressure Differential Valve . It simply is a coil spring that holds the element against the end plate . As I originally stated.
Great video, I was just reading about this last week when i was thinking about changing to a larger (taller) oil filter. I came to the conclusion it's a bad idea do to the bypass psi being different from different vehicle model filters. I'm not saying it wont work, but it involves a bunch of research to figure out which taller filters have the same psi range or atleast close by a few psi. I've found some taller filters I thought I could use ran 11-15 psi bypass when my oem short one runs 23-27 psi.. plus according to test from amsoil a taller filter in some cases can actually filter less and lower your oil pressure. My end conclusion was not to mess with what's not broken, to many variables, you might gain oil capacity but if your bypass psi is off by to much it might run in constant bypass and not filter at all. All just my opinion from what I read and for my normal or mild street car purposes, you can change to a taller filter but you better be 110% sure about that bypass psi and even then your not gaining nothing but oil capacity, also some said it might lower oil pressure and others said it raised it.. a little to risky for little to no reward to me.
Props for re addressing this
I am pretty sure the big spring on the bottom just holds the filtering element in position.
Bingo! We have a winner. That's it the sole purpose of the dome compression spring. Despite what was said in this video, It is NOT a "differential pressure regulator. "
for big block chevy like stationary's and high stress environments newer like vortec and 8.1 gm sells oil filters with no bypasses the diaphragm at the top from what i was told is supposed to be a one way valve so when you shut the engine off it does not loose oil prime or syphon back into the pan
So the two internal valves are redundant, both opening by pressure differential?
One is anti drain-back valve, the other is the oil bypass valve
They make a clear view that's like a smaller version of your old hot rod filter. You can hook air up to it blow all the oil out the filtration part, take the top window off and inspect/ remove or replace the metal screen thing. It's worth the extra money if ya got a decent chunk of money stuck into a built engine.
Can't catch a break, can you? Forget to say the D word and they all gang up on you.. Calm down everybody, the video was still better than a lot of other ones out there. Expectations are very high for UTG.
In theory this would mean the high volume pumps likely would cause less filtering wouldn't it?
Yes, also worse leaking when seals/gaskets fail
Spy vs Spy.
I remember the same design on both Spys. The only difference was the color.
Tony's was right, just in another color.
Its a ... bypass that wont do...at high pressure
So - delete the filter and just do frequent oil changes?
You still need a filter as your engine pulls in also, like dirt and grit. As for racing apps, it dont matter about the filter at all "After" your engine is damaged from metal shavings etc, but will filter those from plugging oil passages etc and cause more damage. 6-10 quarts will be cycled through the filter many many many times during a drive, unlike what Bias TV states above.
Have you looked into the Canton filters? Been using one myself and love it.
My back issues just corrected itself. I feel for you.
What did you call that filter an O' Burg or old bird filter from back in the nitro days?? You peaked my interest. Would you please include it in a follow-up video showcasing it a lil bit more for the folks hard of hearing like myself?