Converting TBI to Carburetor, tips and tricks
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- Converting Your TBI to a carbuator isn't that difficult as long as you know what you are getting into. This is a short vid explaining what you need to know before you start this project.
After 15 years of nonstop issues...throttle body electrical, sensor, regulator, etc., ...I'm done with TBI. I love my old truck , a 94 chevy 454, but hate TBI with a passion. When I was young I had a 79 ford f150. Just a plain old 4 barrel carb, on an edlebrock manifold and that motor always ran...no issues. Thanks for the video Brother. I'm changing back to carb.👍
I've been on the forums gathering information for a carb swap I'm doing on an 84 vette this is the first time I've seen a clear straight forward answer on this fuel pump wiring thanks so much for making this video!
Same here
We have been chasing our problem for 5 days on this pickup and would like to say thanks for the help!
This was exactly what I needed. My k1500 has something wrong in the knock sensor circuit/wiring and after replacing nearly all the sensors its time to go back to a simple, reliable, mechanical solution. Thanks again, awesome video, especially about the fuel pump wiring.
Rusty just seen your video. I’m in the tree business and my Son and I have a 1997 gmc top kick with a 366 gas engine with a throttle body. It is our main bucket truck we use in our business. It starts but idles very roughly for 5 minutes or so then it smoothes out enough for us to drive to the job site to do our work. We have a pony motor that operates the hydraulics to run the boom. We have been having issues with it for around 6 months now. We’ve spent $3 to $4,000 on it so far changing out everything there was to change out. All the sensors, new throttle body gasket, tune up of plugs, wires, distributor, fuel pump, coil and everything else we could think of.
We have someone who done this on a truck like ours and he said it runs great. He is going to do this to our truck. I’m glad I seen your video p, it was very encouraging to me. We are hoping to get our motor running great again. The only has about 105,000 miles on it. Thanks for your video, Steve Miller
Glad I found this. Not running a carburetor on my 88 but I just bought a 94 for parts because it has the tow package and better brakes to put on my 88. I needed this information because I plan on dropping the 94 350 into my 66 Belair while I rebuild my 283
Thanks for the information about the fuel wire to tack side of dist. I was thinking it would work off the fuel pump relay! I really like your video, it has helped me. Thank you.
What kind of issue were having?Im asking to see if yours is similar to mine
Once again I really like this video. I thought that all I needed to do was hook up the purple wire to tack side of dist. and all will be good to go.Wrong, you still need the fuel pump relay hooked up at least this is the only way my fuel pump would work. And the car is running great, all finished. 1986 corvette, and only using it for drags at the 1/4 mile race track. I hope this may help someone on the fuel pump! Thanks.
@@mikepolk3361 Hello mike, I just wrote a about the wire to dist. for fuel pump and in my comment I said that I also hooked back up the fuel pump relay and this is working great now! With out the relay I was not getting any fuel only a prime for 2 seconds. Hope this helps!
Thank you sir. You just saved my rear end. I was about to give up
This video is sure helpful thank you ive been trying to figure out the fuel pump wiring because i have a 1992 gmc c3500hd that im changeing over to to carb because the tbi is failing so bad the truck would run so lean that it doesn't have the power to go up hills
I was wondering if u can do a better video on the wiring for the the distributor and for the fuel pump to stay running
Do u figure out wiring it’s were im stuck at..
"You got a good motor, but your electronics suck", classic truth.
Just the video I was looking for...got the same truck with a stalling issue at stop signs ...I've been fighting it for months..im an ok mechanic but am done replacing stuff..took it to a reputable shop and they are scratching there heads..gonna save up and go with your setup.
I did the same thing to my 94. Ill say if youre doing to swap from scratch, it'll run you around $1500 all said and done. Thats a good aluminum intake, 4bbl carb, HEI distributor, tps set up, regulator, brass fittings, etc. You won't regret it though. You'll gain probably 30hp and tons of torque and it will run SO smooth. My truck runs like new and has more power. And with electric choke, it starts very easy. Just 2 pats on the throttle and ZOOM. Paint the valve covers, keep it clean and it'll look like you dropped a $5k crate engine down and this also opens up a lot of possibilities for aftermarket exhaust since you have no emissions to worry about.
@@ericchapman8956 what do you mean by tps setup? Thanks
@@mainerj Throttle Position Sensor. This only applies if you have the 4l80E as it uses the TPS to control its shifting. If you jave a mechanical kickdown or a manual transmission you wont have to worry about it. I used a Holley carb and a special bracket sold by Holley that can be used with the factory Throttle Position Sensor. Without it, a 4L60E/4L80E transmission wont shift right. Sorry im not very good at explaining things.
@@ericchapman8956 thank you, ya makes sense I have a 700r4 so just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing anything 👍🏼
@@mainerj then you can skip that step entirely!
Sweet thank you you're my hero 😂 but fr lol I did a bunch of work engine wise heads intake like that and I was trying really hard to use my throttle body but I don't think it's going to work so this is helpful thank you very much
Thank you for pointing out the tac wire. Just did mine 87 chevy 454, used original intake with carb spacer.runs 90%better.everybody talks about the tbi to carb , but don't tell you about the wire hook up thanks.
Yup,, I just ran across this video point'n out the purple wire,, went out n found it,, gonna try it tomorrow,,, them forums aint all they crack'd up to be are they,,
@@bigpigslapperoinktoo4953 I hooked purple and white wire to the tach port and the pump did not come on i stuck my test light in the wire and it came on strong for just a few secounds and quit, if i pull the test light out and stick it back in it does it again, any thoughts??
@@michaelbraun8074 I have none,, mine is still goin,, when I spliced it in,, it aint stop'd,, I have no clue,, I was gonna drop the tank,, mess with the wire'n and possibly put a Holley red pump on it before I saw that dudes video,,, I almost went mechanical fuel pump if the Holly red didn't work bein it's so old,, I pray ya get it figured out,,
@@bigpigslapperoinktoo4953 I just hooked it up to a hot wire by itself and it still came on the same
Question, I'm learning as I go, I have a jasper 350 engine out of a 95k1500 I'm putting in my 85k 20, do I just need to swap all the fan,water pump, power steering off my old engine for belts and would a Edelbrock 2104 be the correct intake to use to go carb?? Since everyone is telling me the intake that's on it won't work?
The purple with white stripe to dist. was all I did and with no luck hooked up the fuel pump relay and it works great!
I hooked purple wire up and when I turned key on I get nothing. No sound just cruckets.... thinking of just running to toggle
Oil pressure switch sees pressure and keeps the fuel pump running after the initial prime. Needs to be plugged in on the back by the dizzy,,, if your motor has one.
doesnt the c in c1500 mean its 2wd? you probably meant k1500
thanks for the vidieo, been trying for two days to figure out why fuel pump was not working after swap.
Rusty really liked your video you explained it clearly and very comprehendible. I'm going to change the manifold to carbetsted on my 93 gmc 4x4. Z71 with 350 but I changed the 700r4. Like you said chasing phantom problems to have any tips for a manual trany manifold switch? I subscribed to your channel. Thank. You again.
There's a special detent cable corrector that goes on the throttle linkage. It keeps the line pressure right through 3 4 gear. If you don't have that adapter, you will burn up that 700r4 within 1000 miles. You will be lucky to even get 400 miles out of that 700r4 without that part. Cool video
Hi Jeremy, you are right I do have my detent connected to the carb. It took a little adjusting with the bracket to get the proper adjustment from it. Still running strong. Thanks for the comment.
What do you do if you have a granny low 3 speed manual? Would that effect anything with the detent cable?
@@tlariscy hey I did the purple wire what u said but when I’m driving the fuel pump will shut off
@Romeo Weeks did you ever get that issue fixed?
I found out I have to get a inline pump hopefully that will work I’ll let you know if it worked in a couple weeks because I keep bending all my push rods so it’s in the shop tired of fuc*ing with it lol but everything else is perfect transmission shifts smoothly and I found out I have to get a throttle position sensor is from usshift bolts on the passenger side of the carburetor look up nick connors I believe his TH-cam name u will see what I’m talking about
You can disconnect your fuel lines just below the cab and you can get to metric fittings and you won't have to cut the line
Could you go into more detail?
@@andreschavez3373 what detail are you wanting to know ?
Building a carbed engine for my 91 k1500. Great video! Thanks for the tips!
@Dawnstriker I'm trying to do one on the same year and truck as you, any tips or things you learned/problems you ran into?
@@realWideOpenThrottle actually I haven't even gotten to it yet. Setback after setback.
@@Electrains No problem, I've been looking around on forums and other places to see what others have come up with. Thanks for the reply.
@@realWideOpenThrottle I did a carburetor swap on mines I have a 1990 K1500 350 how far did you get on yours?
@@road2richz_q266 I actually finished it. Truck has been running for a good while now, has the occasional rough idle most likely due to the 87 octane gas I keep throwing at it. Too cheap to buy the good gas. Otherwise it runs perfect.
4l60e has that cable under the throttle cable as well. If that cable goes to a box on the firewall it controls the cruise control.. just so nobody gets confused after watching this video when they go look and the cables there on a newer trans truck 👍
95 and after has a 4l60e I believe, My 91 has a 700r4
Which fuel pressure regulator did you use?
Thanks for the how to vid
Thank you so much I fully converted my truck and I love it now it peels the tires off do this conversion
I have one question do I disconnect the old timing advance wire as it does impact the initial timing to your hei
My 1988 W100 i just sold a couple months ago had a TBI rooted gremlin i just couldnt iron out.
I loved the truck but i had to make a decision to either keeo dumping money into it or use that money for fishing, and i chose option B.
Thanks for the sub BTW 😊
Good clean job, any year update vids to your build?
Been have'n trouble with run'n out of fuel,, the purple wire I hope is my problem,,,, will give that a shot tomorrow,, went out n found the 4 pin connector with the purple wire w/white stripe,,, Thank God He Led me To your video,,,, Thanks for the info,, hope it works tomorrow,, God Bless
Works like a charm,, thank You for the video,,
No ur problem is u listen to a stupid mfker. Go get a mechanical pump. And problem solved. All 350s pre vortech. Can have a mech pump bolted to the block they just put a plate over it. Fun fact the tbi cams HAVE THE FUEL PUMP LOBE. ALL U NEED IS THE SHAFT. PUMP AND GASKET. PROBLEMS SOLVED FOR EVER. NOT ONLY THAT. But your fuckin factory pump pushes way to much fuel pressure to a carb thats ment to get 5psi really of pressure. Ur gonna ruin ur carb and constantly have issues. I dont care if u go put a inline regualator u can set fuel pressure. Dont work.
To Get The In Tank Pump To Work other than just prime! cut grey wire from fuel pump relay on passenger firewall and connect it to new relay which will be your fuel pump hot with constant 12v, switched 12v & ground wahla fuel pump comes on with ignition switch and works properly! Remember to use a bypass regulator!
What year did you do this on?
Thank you very much Sir. I hate the computers and I know that I will make my 89 K5 Blazer run like it should with the tried and true method of a distributor and carburetor. 🙂
I pretty much have the exact same set up intake and carburetor, I was curious what did you set your overall idle timing to? I know the TBI computer adjusted it on its own so I was curious what timing you went with. Thanks in advance.
Excellent video. Ty
Do you unplug the old computer,do you’ve the part number for the fuel pump regulator?
How much did this project run you, great video by the way, answered most of my questions, also would it be fine with a 5 speed ?
Do you have video on your vacuum lines on carb and from the booster to carb?
If you leave the tbi wiring harness in place and guve it the tach signal, hook the map sensor to the new manifold, and fit a throttle position sensor to the carburetor the 4l60E should shift fine
I'm having the exact issues you described near the end of this video, put a brand new engine in and it has ran like shit since, changed every sensor there is and have come to the conclusion there's wiring issues in the tbi system, idle is erratic all over the place and I can't get it to stabilize so now I'm weighing out switching to carb setup or tracing the wiring issue...
Did you ever figure out why it’s doing this? Mine has been doing it for 1 year but seems it only does it when it wants too. Like one week it’s running like shit and the next it’s perfect.. I’ve tried locating naked wires I’ve changed throttle bodies, distributor +(cap wires and spark plugs), coil, every sensor on the damn thing, fuel pump and filter, and have looked over the ecu wiring behind the glove box and still acts up sometimes.. it was my grandpas truck. Had it every since I was 5 and he gave it to me when I was 16 and I would do anything for it to run right .. please let me know if someone has solved this! Thanks.
@@daltongrayson8513 my 99 is the exact same way,I've figured out outside air temperature effects it.At first when it's cold runs like ass.ten minutes of driving and it's mostly normal.Just not the best setup
@@brandonvansel3716 have you changed the temp sensor on the intake?
@@daltongrayson8513 yes.Ive changed pretty much everything at this point.The other thing that does this is to much air at the maf
@@brandonvansel3716 I’ll try to figure out how to post a video of what my truck is doing on here and tell me if yours is doing the same thing
Great tips thanks sir
Thank you!
good video my brother
Thanks
Without splicing the wires can you use the tbi distributor with a carb
I see some other wires going to the distributor. Don’t know anything about wiring so what would those be?
I've got a 95 GMC K1500 4x4 Iswapped from TBI to carb and am having difficulty with my 4L60 Trans, it doesn't switch gears. How can I fix this problem?
What size carb would be good for this swap
How do you get the trans to go into overdrive once you have removed all the sensors and electronics? Is there an easy way to do this or do you have to install a kit ?
Overdrive is accomplished through the lock up of the torque converter. This can be achieved through a TPS and a kit or through wiring a switch to the harness coming out of the xmsn. I do not know which wires they are you would have to do some research.
Do you have the same fuel tank or did you have to change out with a return style fuel tank?
I really like your video. Clear and straight forward. I am planning on doing a similar swap on my 1988 Chevy blazer 350 5.7L. Watching your video and comments I had a couple of doubts. Did you use the 2101 or 2104 intake from edelbrock? What carb did you use? and did you change to a melinized gear on the distributor to protect the camshaft? THANKS FOR SHARING.
Hi Jorge, I used the 2101. The only reason to change distributor gear is if you have a roller cam setup, then you would need to use a bronze gear. I used a Holly 600 cfm with electric choke. Had to use adapter to make intake square bore.
@@tlariscy do you remember what adapter? And where to get one? About to attempt on my 88
@@tlariscy hey man I got a 1989 with a rod knocking in my 350. I've got a 78 with a beast of a 350. Can I just set the whole engine in there sir?
@@wildestcowboy2668 shouobe an issue. Just got to provide fuel and spark to be good to go. Not sure on the motor mount match up, but that’s not too hard to adapt if there are any difference.
Good info but I hope you hooked up the Throttle Valve cable from your 700R4 Trans to the Carb and had it adjusted correctly. Otherwise you'll burn up that 700R4 real fast.
I have the same setup same carb I just did my swap carb yesterday I ran purple and white to tach and battery side to key turn on also directly to hot truck cranks when given gas but the pump cuts off
I have a 1988 Chevrolet k 1500. Rebuilt motor and doing the TBI to carb swap. Brand new HEI distributor. 12-volt to battery on distributor
Purple and white wire to takw Port. Fuel pump not running it was before
Do the service engine lights come on after the swap out
Can you by pass the knock sensor when you do the conversion?
I'm doing a swap concerned on four wheel drive electrical
I got a 90 c2500 with a L98 that I carbed. I have the 3l80/th400 trans. What do I need to make it work right? It's not quite driveable yet but I'm just trying to figure out what else to do
I'm having issues with my conversion. Every time I put it in gear, it shuts my truck off like it kills the fuel. I am running a mechanical fuel pump.
Like your vid! You didn't have to mess with the fuel relay at all? So you just connected the purple and white cable to the tach port right? So this way it will run the fuel pump like normal? Thanks.
Yes, straight to the tach port. Keeps fuel pump running. No issues
How much did everything cost for conversion and where did you get it
I have a 95 K1500, did you leave the stock full pump in the tank? I assume you did based on the regulator.
Good vid and info..
Im pretty much decided to do the swap on my 91 camaro and ive watched a few videos already and it seems like they all say thr same thing,, that theyve kept the factory computer to operate the temp switch for the cooling fan.
So my question is.. If ive already run the cooling fan to a toggle switch, is there any other reason for keeping the ecm? Cuz this thing is a wiring nightmare and im ready to just rip it all out 😂
Im thinking about doing this on my geo metro but I don’t think the distributor swap is necessary
Good video. Friend can you tell me where I should connect the distributor coil cables so that after starting the engine I can also turn it off by the switch.
Do I. Need to hook up the electronic kick down on my 1988 gmc it was to and someone made it carburetor but never hooked up the electronic kick down I have the 700r4 transmission mine also has a another kick down cable on it that’s on the passenger side of transmission
Can you assist on instruction for how to attach the linkage to my Rochester 4 bbl on my new 2104 Intake?
How did you hook up the Regulator Just a feed on the left and return on the right? And is the a vent on the bottom does that go to the intake or the carb im using my stock intake 1987 4.3l V6 switching over to carburetor.
This is for the Holley fuel regulator documents.holley.com/99-39_30-1900_by-pass_regulator.pdf
What do you do about the electrical wiring for the rest of the truck? How does that change with a carb?
Hi Steven, you will still use all the engine sensors like water temp , oil pressure Ext. All the plugs for throttle position , map sensor ect will not be used. I cut mine off. Be sure before cutting anything that everything works like it is supposed to. Better safe than sorry.
Not sure if you're going to see this Walt, but I am swapping a 1997 Chevy Tahoe 5.7 to carbureted. The only thing I can't figure out is if I have vortec heads. It says vortec above the intake boot, but it has TBI.. for some reason I keep reading that TBI motors are different from the vortec
during 1997 was the 5.7 L 5700 L31 engine, which was produced from 1996 to 2002. The V-8 engine had an overhead valve configuration, with two valves per cylinder. The truck engine was rated at 255 horsepower and 330 foot-pounds of torque. The 5700 engine appeared in the 1997 Chevrolet Express, Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Chevrolet/GMC full-size trucks and the Cadillac Escalade. This engine was replaced in 2002 by the 5.3 5300.
Yes you should have vortec heads
I have 96 silverado that I completed the conversion and could not find the purple wire with white stripe anywhere that everyone runs to the tach port. Did you find the wire?
How do you got your chock set up?
We did everything you said and the motor runs fine ,but when you put it in gear it stalls out. It has the detention cable for a 700R . IT'S a1990 CHEVY c 2500 with a 5.7 motor. Thanks! ED
Hi Ed, my guess would be fuel supply, however the lock up torque converter may be locking up when you put it in gear. Try disconnecting the wiring harness on side of transmission and see if problems still there. This should rule out transmission problems. Hard to troubleshoot when not on site. Good luck
How would you hook up an electric choke
Hi Frank, the carburetor should come with one. You would just hook a switched wire that is energized when ignition is switched on. The other terminal on the choke will go to ground. Hope this helps.
do I lose the factory tach doing this or does the relay/tach wire keep stock tach?
Your video is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you so much. So, I got all the parts but I have a question as to what hei distributor did you use...do you by any chance have the brand and number? I thank you in advance. Thank you again for the informative video. 🙏
Any HEI distributor for a 350 should work
Do I absolutely have to have a return?
To the best of my knowledge the bypass allows the excess pressure to return to the tank. You might have fuel line or regulator failures without the return. If you are using the factory in tank fuel pump, then I would have to say that the return is necessary. Hope this helps.
I have an "88 with a TH400 trans. Any idea what has to be done for that trans?
GM rocks try to do a conversion to a Ford it’s complicated as for Chevys can swap clear back to 1955 Im not picking on Fords but they are a pain to try to swap out things unless you have the specific year sometimes. Those engineers have too many ideas keep it simple.. tried and true great video long live the HEI and Carb👍🏻
“Gm rocks” that’s why everyone is here trying to get them to run, or be reliable or both. 😅
If you haven’t converted a 5.7 tbi to carb yet they won’t take the ignition timing a conventional carb engine will because of the combustion chamber shape. They rock alright, 1/2 the motor is rocking the scrap bin to make them proper unlike the fords.
Where can I find a fuel regulator setup
Do I really need the return line to be hooked up? Can't I just block it off?
Yes, as I understand it. Without the fuel being able to return to the tank the fuel pressure will build until something between the regulator and fuel pump fails.
@@tlariscy Ahh, oh. Thanks!
No you will have to get a fuel pressure regulator and lower the pressure , without a return line it will flood the engine with fuel
Hows the Fuel Economy?
looking at your video i didnt see no out let on your pressure regulator for the vacuum hose
The pressure regulator does not use engine vacuum. It’s a racing style mechanical fuel pressure regulator.
Is that a regular intake or a vortec intake
Thanks for the video, it was very helpful. But need help. I completed the efi to carb conversion on my 96 silverado and am utilizing the 4l60e. I used the holley tps. Tried to set tps to .5 at idle and can't get the wot higher than 3.8 and doing so changes the idle to 1.8. It goes without saying g the trans starts out in second gear. I can not find the purple with white stripe wire in the plug which went to stock dist. Or for that matter anywhere else in the engine wiring harness. I even had an additional wiring harness from a 96 and couldn't find the wire in it. The engine I installed does not have crank sensor. Can you please help?
What initial timing do you run with this setup?
I need a part # on the holley fuel pump regulator
Lots of questions! What carb? I know the flow of the heads is crap.
Have 1989 C1500. Motor was rebuilt with Comp cam (5000rpm)and roller valve train. Suddenly have no high end. What linkage kit? (I have 700R4). Where is the timing? Does yours have more power over the TBI?
Thanks
Hi, i have a question. I have a 89 Chevy Extended Cab Silverado C1500 with a 350 and I'm in process of doing the same carb swap.
My question is...there's a hose with like a nut type piece where you can put a wrench on to and it attaches to some short of a fitting that im assuming goes into the intake area of the block. would i have to remove the fitting in order to do the carb and intake swap?
Been looking for diagrams and videos on how to wire the fuel pump the right way verse just wire it to a switched hot or a toggle switch. Does that bypass you're fuel pump relay? You're fuel gauge works?
We are just now completing a similar conversion on my son's 91 Silverado. We went with carburetor heads, because our valve seals were bad and different intake but similar distributor and carburetor. Was just now fighting trying to figure out how to power the fuel pump, our only hurdle before starting this motor. If I understand correctly, and its great information, all I need to do is run that wire from the distributor plug to the tac wire from the coil And the fuel pump will operate normally?
Yes, the computer uses that wire to sense engine speed so that the voltage to the fuel pump is regulated to supply appropriate pressure from the pump.
@@tlariscy Thank you so much for the very valuable information. We took the info in your video and were able to finish up the minor wiring for the distributor and the fuel pump in just a few minutes. We did get the engine fired but are having a bit of a vacuum leak issue we are working on. One thing we have different, another post had referenced the part number for a mechanical fuel pump that they used in tandem with the electric. The tandem fuel pump has a return and according to the poster it automatically regulated the fuel down to the 5 psi needed for the carburetor. We have everything hooked up, it appears to be working but at this point I believe I'm going to add a regulator between the mechanical pump and the carburetor for safety.
What about egr and cc?
My biggest question with this swap is if this will affect any of the gauges on the dash, im considering a carb swap for tuning reasons, but i have a fully functional gauge cluster and id like to keep it fully functioning
Thanks for the video! It was really informative. I have a 1984 Ford LTD Crown Victoria with a 5.0L engine. Do you know if you can convert a Ford the same way as a GM? Any tips are appreciated. :)
I got back pressure going to my fuel pump and killing the pump if I give it 15 30 mins it will start back up and I’ve watched so many videos and no one else is running into the problem other than me only happens when I drive for like 15+mins
Do did you not have to run a hot wire to the battery or take the green and white wire hook it up to your ignition wire ?
I have a 1988 Chevy 1 ton that had tbi I put a 350 out of a 1994 in it and want to go carbureted I have put a Edelbrock intake and a quadrajet 750 from 1987 that has a plug shaped like a trailer light plug built into it and my wiring harness always had a green plug that never had something to plug into and it matches and fits the one in carb I have new fuel pump in tank but my question is do you think I will need a fuel pressure regulator like yours to run properly?
Why the purple and White wire for the fuel pump and not other ignition activated wire?
The wire does not power the fuel pump, the ECU reads engine rpm through this wire then the ECU controls the fuel pump according to engine rpm.
Thank you that makes sense
So basically you could put that intake on an older carbureted engine with hei already and it'd work in tbi truck?
Which wire do I use to put on bat side of the distributor and which cable to I use for the electric choke ?
Does the computer freak out and throw a bunch of codes with all that stuff unhooked?
Hi Nate, good question. If your doing this swap it’s probably because your computer or wiring harness has some serious issues. You probably are already getting codes that you can’t seem to fix. The ECU in the TBI system mostly controls timing and fuel mixture. This swap precludes the need for the ECU with the exception of needing the electric fuel pump to be controlled. The only sensors left are engine temp, and oil pressure. The ECU does not control these functions. So to answer your question, yes you will get codes however the codes have nothing to do with the proper function of your engine once the swap is done.
Very good illustration.Does your Truck have the L98 aluminum heads. I 'm doing a 89 Vette.Going to use 2102 Edelbrock.so the distributor is no computer Hei.purple wire goes to the tach side of the new distributor
Thanks Robbie
Cast iron heads
L98 aluminum
I have a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado. I am removing the TBI. I am a little confused about the fuel pump issue. My Chevrolet crate motor doesn't have a mechanical pump on it. You have to run a fuel pump with this motor. I purchased a Jegs 110gph/lph. They are telling me I don't have to drop the tank and remove the fuel pump. Is this true or not. Everyone has different answers. Can I remove the return line, I do believe I can. Can you help me out? Thank you in advance. Mike F..
Hi Michael, you should just use the existing fuel pump that is in the fuel tank and use the pressure and return lines that hook up to your TBI. You will need to run the pressure line through a high end fuel pressure regulator and dial the fuel pressure down to about 6psi. That being said you will want a pressure regulator with a bypass, it will have three hook up’s. One for the pressure line from the tank, one with the regulated pressure going to the carb and the bypass going to the return line for fuel tank. Pay special attention to the part in video about wiring up the tach connection to HEI distributor. This function is what regulates the fuel pump turning on and off based upon engine RPM. Skip this part and you will be able to start engine but it will shut off when carb runs out of fuel because fuel pump did not continue to supply fuel past the initial prime up when you turned on your key. Hope this helps.
@@tlariscy thank you Walt
Can you put a old mechanical fuel pump on the block or did they remove that provision on the block??
Should work
I did the same swap with my 93 Cadillac Fleetwood for the distributor all I found is a pink wire and a white wire I hooked up the pink wire to bat on the Hei Distributor and the white wire on the tac/green wire on the Hei distributor can't find a purple wire anywhere.
Not sure how the Cadillac is wired. My experience was only with the C1500. Sorry I couldn’t be more help on this.
@@tlariscy Sorry I found out what the problem was it was out of gas and the gas gauge was off by a quarter tank lol
What are the color of wires that go to the starter. I removed my whole engine to rebuild inside out and forgot to add name tags to the wires