Bought one with a faulty side-button switch (fault is in the baseplate mainboard) for $20; so to use it properly I turned the side-button plate 180-degrees, and glued it in there (used lollipop sticks to hold it in place). Works great.
What is that pen thing called u used to take off the feet, i wana change my battery, feet and side rubber. Trying to bring new life to my viper ultimate too. And probly some cleaning on the copper charging contacts too, they seem to stop being sensitive to charging i had to use a cotton bud to clean it now and then for it to register a charge.
Do you know if any of these parts are swappable with the new v3 ultimate? I might want to try adding the underglow LED. If possible, I will remove the LED from the Razer logo. Too bad Razer didn't make the v3 wireless
just a fair warning if you are here trying to fix scroll wheel jumping by disassembling the mouse and cleaning the wheel area......thats most likely not the problem, its a charding issue causing it :/ if you use the mouse wired for to long enough this starts happening. you can replicate this by letting the battery in the mouse die and recharging it. will fix it temporarily
Would it be possible to install the top shell from Viper V2 Pro on the RVU? The rubberized sides are looking ok for me after a year of use, but I rather have the V2 Pro feel if I had a way to do it
Probably tomorrow night on stream if you want to catch it live www.twitch.tv/beardedbob I'll confirm the stream is live in the YT community tab and twitter @beardedb0b I'll then upload the edited version within a few days to TH-cam.
The only RGB is soldered onto the PCB. You can remove the plastic cone, but the weight reduction would probably be a gram at most. You could potentially desolder the side buttons you don’t use, but the weight savings there would be tiny as well. Removing the side buttons, switches, and PCB and using foam tape to mount the battery (potentially a smaller battery) would be, in my opinion, the easiest weight reduction, but I use my side buttons so I didn’t do it. I recently took apart a RVU to repair and paint it.
Why lighter fluid and not something more specifically indeed for that use, like adhesive remover or alcohol? It is just a case of what you had and if it works it works?
It works that's it. Alcohol might do the same but some things might damage the plastic so use at your own risk :-p Here a few other ways i've tested th-cam.com/video/Ez4lh-xE7ZY/w-d-xo.html
Hello. I got myself the model o wireless mouse. May I ask your suggestion for the best mousepad? I play all games and sens is around 1600 dpi, only in csgo i use 400dpi. Thanks for your time
Great video. I am very happy with this mouse. I've bought 2 backups. The one I am currently using for a long time only has a small issue when scroll wheel skips to the opposite direction of where I am scrolling sometimes. Is there a fix for this? How can I fix the schroll wheel wrongly going the other way a bit sometimes?
Hey bob had a question. Do you know why my mouse main button are not clicking? I took the mouse apart but the left and right main button just sit there and I can’t click anything?
I'm wondering what type of JST wire is attached the battery @8:00? Planning to buy maybe a lipo battery with that attached or just the RC connector to insert on the male connector attached to the board. Broken mouse is a Death Adder v2 Pro which does not charge.
thank you for the wonderful video and info just one question sir , are you sure that this is the battery for this mouse ? i mean the link 4 battery in the description?
Hey bob do you have any idea about the battery's spec? that's the only thing keeping me from buying this mouse due to battery wear if I can replace it or not.
So on my channel there is a short showing a problem with the Razer Viper Ultimate. Do you know what causes the DPI Light constantly blinking and the mouse not working at all?
They market this as having a 70hr battery life. HAHAHA maybe on day one. I have been using this mouse for just over a year and it can't even keep a charge for 1 day. I specifically purchased it based on the user reviews and the high battery life. What a load a crap. Really unfortunate too because it's one of the best mice I have ever used. Thank you for the video, I was curious what was inside to see if I can replace it. Way too much work for me so in the trash it goes.
After working on a bunch of mice, for PTFE skates, I found that a pair of fine tweezers (think tweezers for model kits/vaping) work well for peeling the skates off with almost zero deformation.
i love this mouse so much i ended up buying 6 of them because i hate having to change mice... and by the time my mouse usually breaks they are no longer making them. the problem is now i just realize that batteries may not work if stored to long? how do i make sure that the mice batteries are functional when i may need them in the future? i hope to get at least 2 years of life per mouse at least, that gives me 12 years of use, but most likely 5+ years in the batteries in the unusued mice will decay and become unusable? or will it work if i charge them once a year?
Don't do it atm :-p they have some thickness issues both V1 and V2.. see these videos V1 - th-cam.com/video/G2V4KwgoSes/w-d-xo.html V2 - th-cam.com/video/iMS7xOm5-tw/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for this. I got a question. From the looks of it, the middle mouse button seems to use a mechanical switch opposed to optical switches for the other buttons. Do you think this is the case? I currently have an issue with mine where it doesn't register properly. I either have to press it multiple times or do hard presses which is frustrating. Was wondering if I could fix this.
I got mine down to under 61.5 with a 3d printed base plus removal of left side buttons and the rgb defuser removed, now I notice no feel difference between my 58gramwired and it
Im wondering that can i just take the optical switch out and put kailh gm 4.0 into the pcb, can it work like hotswapable keyboard or we just only take out the optical switch and put the new optical switch into the pcb, sir?
@@Beardedbob im just recently changing from viper ultimate to da v2 pro but now i think i have to considering to quit razer and get another wireless mouse then :(, anw thank you so much for helping me out sir, have a nice day!
Hi, is there anything to do to fix the viper 8khz right click button which is loose and shaking. If i manage to tear down, can i do something? Left click is ok. But right one really makes me irritated :(
you can on this version open it and check how tight the screw is or seeing if you can see why its wobbling.. this will invalidate the warranty so I would RMA it.
I tried this and it doesn't work. But also charging the battery doesn't work too so maybe something wrong with the charging port on my end (mine is a deathadder v2 pro)
@@Beliefacy You have to replace the encoder, which unfortunately requires soldering. The replacement part was the Kailh 11mm encoder but I never got to test it because desoldering the old one was so difficult, I ended up screwing the whole mouse up. Side note - I replaced it with a much cheaper Viper Mini and the encoder died after 6 months. Then I replaced that with an even cheaper MM710 and the encoder died after 3 months. I swear this was never an issue until they fixed the double click problem by introducing optical switches. Gotta get that planned obsolescence from somewhere I guess.
@@tucci06 My new viper ultimate is already here... Maybe I should've bought a viper V2? Who knows... I'll try to clean the old one with compressed air; if not it'll be a back up mouse IG...
Man I just need to open mine to clean the dust of the middle mouse button, it doesn't register clicks most of the time. Is there a fix to that without having to open the whole mouse?
Sure, easier to talk on the shop abs chat app. shop.beardedbob.com Worth checking these viper weight reductions to decide what you want done. Stock look th-cam.com/video/gCX7nABqD9A/w-d-xo.html Extreme/most weight removed th-cam.com/video/JHJy8H2H1i0/w-d-xo.html
Looking for the chat app, I'll sign up. Wondering about my 8khz transplanted into weight reduced stock mini w Ice feet, that'd be my endgame for my Otsu.
LP702427 i couldnt find it. Apparently the sony xm4 have a much more popular LP702428 battery. I am worried about the connector though they look different
Hello! I have viper ultimate, but also I do have annoying rattling right side button(mouse4 on the right side). Is it possible to fix it or should I just replace it? Thanks in advance!
@@Beardedbob oh dang, I ended up finding it eventually but that was pure luck :) Won't they be able to give the name of that spring if one is contacting them ?
@@Beardedbob Are they thick because I'm scared my hands would not like the added thickness to the sides. If so can I just remove the original grips and replace them with the lizards skins.
@@lostboy2637 "pay for the wireless technology" ? Wtf? The Logitech Metaphor - the first wireless mouse in 1984. 37 years ago... DPI 20k standard, 2.4 GHz RF protocol is the same in other low price wireless mouse, the switch under the button is the same as in every mouse , etc. etc. Maximum price $50-$80.
@@kernelirq9246 Are you drunk? "switch under the button is the same" - they are optical switches, you can literally see that they are not soldered, and at the moment you can count all mice that have optical switches by the fingers on your hands. Regarding wireless, have you ever wondered why until recent couple of years wireless wasn't even considered as an option for top gaming mice and for a good reason.
you realize that putting that 1:39 on there doesn't do anything right? it's only good on a cotton pad to get rid of glue residue not. The only thing the liquid does this way or can do on many plastic mice is leave a wet mark because it dissolves the coating/and or plastic to a degree (especially on razers PBT). It really does not even get all the way under the feets to make it easier to get them off. You also have problems reusing them again because the glue gets disolved as well to a degree. But then.. you are also even using this FAT ass flat screw driver like thing like a Pepega to try to go under the skates... which.. just completely ruins them?! I cringe every time when I see you doing this bob sorry. Just get a cutting knife and go as flat as possible under them and pull upwards, this way they stay factory flat. don't ever pull and roll/curl them like a pepega. And you also don't even need heat for that, 1s hairdryer makes the outcome maybe more like factory new skates but is not needed as well. And no glue residue either with or without heat. CUTTING KNIFE! PLEASE! edit: holy shit you even used the liquid on the sensor ring... I would literally never let you touch my mice to open them.
The Battery Type is PL702427 with approximately 450mah of capacity
Bought one with a faulty side-button switch (fault is in the baseplate mainboard) for $20; so to use it properly I turned the side-button plate 180-degrees, and glued it in there (used lollipop sticks to hold it in place). Works great.
What is that pen thing called u used to take off the feet, i wana change my battery, feet and side rubber. Trying to bring new life to my viper ultimate too.
And probly some cleaning on the copper charging contacts too, they seem to stop being sensitive to charging i had to use a cotton bud to clean it now and then for it to register a charge.
Nice! Can’t wait for the weight reduction vid
It’s going to be interesting eh
@@Beardedbob the weight mod stream is still coming ?
Hey! Amazing demonstration. Quick question, how do you put the white skates again?
if you don't want to lose the little springs take the main buttons off in a bag or box
Do you know if any of these parts are swappable with the new v3 ultimate?
I might want to try adding the underglow LED. If possible, I will remove the LED from the Razer logo.
Too bad Razer didn't make the v3 wireless
just a fair warning if you are here trying to fix scroll wheel jumping by disassembling the mouse and cleaning the wheel area......thats most likely not the problem, its a charding issue causing it :/
if you use the mouse wired for to long enough this starts happening. you can replicate this by letting the battery in the mouse die and recharging it. will fix it temporarily
Would it be possible to install the top shell from Viper V2 Pro on the RVU? The rubberized sides are looking ok for me after a year of use, but I rather have the V2 Pro feel if I had a way to do it
What is the encoder mm on razer viper ultimate? 9mm,10mm or 11mm?
When is the weight reduction coming? Really wanna see how much the RGB and side buttons add to the mouse
Probably tomorrow night on stream if you want to catch it live www.twitch.tv/beardedbob I'll confirm the stream is live in the YT community tab and twitter @beardedb0b
I'll then upload the edited version within a few days to TH-cam.
The only RGB is soldered onto the PCB. You can remove the plastic cone, but the weight reduction would probably be a gram at most. You could potentially desolder the side buttons you don’t use, but the weight savings there would be tiny as well. Removing the side buttons, switches, and PCB and using foam tape to mount the battery (potentially a smaller battery) would be, in my opinion, the easiest weight reduction, but I use my side buttons so I didn’t do it. I recently took apart a RVU to repair and paint it.
Hey, how would you go about reducing the noise of the scroll wheel, or making it more smooth?
After using it for a while it will get smoother
Lol; first world problems!! All good
Why lighter fluid and not something more specifically indeed for that use, like adhesive remover or alcohol? It is just a case of what you had and if it works it works?
It works that's it. Alcohol might do the same but some things might damage the plastic so use at your own risk :-p
Here a few other ways i've tested th-cam.com/video/Ez4lh-xE7ZY/w-d-xo.html
Hello. I got myself the model o wireless mouse. May I ask your suggestion for the best mousepad? I play all games and sens is around 1600 dpi, only in csgo i use 400dpi. Thanks for your time
my main is the MPC450. here is my review and data... they have now updated the logo to be smaller. th-cam.com/video/NEQSTVMSk6g/w-d-xo.html
Great video. I am very happy with this mouse. I've bought 2 backups. The one I am currently using for a long time only has a small issue when scroll wheel skips to the opposite direction of where I am scrolling sometimes. Is there a fix for this? How can I fix the schroll wheel wrongly going the other way a bit sometimes?
Spray it with electronic cleaner or alcohol then scroll it, might be saveable without desoldering it
Camera went out of focus many times, I just wanna see the battery.
Watch solved of the modding ones if you need more views of it 👍..th-cam.com/video/HO47DG8Wm9w/w-d-xo.html
Hey bob had a question. Do you know why my mouse main button are not clicking? I took the mouse apart but the left and right main button just sit there and I can’t click anything?
Thank you very much i just change my top cover buttons
Nice job
I'm wondering what type of JST wire is attached the battery @8:00? Planning to buy maybe a lipo battery with that attached or just the RC connector to insert on the male connector attached to the board. Broken mouse is a Death Adder v2 Pro which does not charge.
I bought some 1.25mm JST wires.. and it doesn't fit. Even their JST wires are exclusive to them...
An interesting idea would be putting this bad boy in the g305 for the egg shape
So I made my logitech g pro wireless mouse "silent" with kailh buttons. You guys think that it would be possible to swap switches in this one?
thank you for the wonderful video and info
just one question sir , are you sure that this is the battery for this mouse ? i mean the link 4 battery in the description?
Glad to help
Hey bob do you have any idea about the battery's spec? that's the only thing keeping me from buying this mouse due to battery wear if I can replace it or not.
Haven't found it yet.
PL702427 3,7v 450mAh
So on my channel there is a short showing a problem with the Razer Viper Ultimate. Do you know what causes the DPI Light constantly blinking and the mouse not working at all?
They market this as having a 70hr battery life. HAHAHA maybe on day one. I have been using this mouse for just over a year and it can't even keep a charge for 1 day. I specifically purchased it based on the user reviews and the high battery life. What a load a crap. Really unfortunate too because it's one of the best mice I have ever used. Thank you for the video, I was curious what was inside to see if I can replace it. Way too much work for me so in the trash it goes.
1 day? damn thats defective, ill get 2 weeks from mine with high sleep values
definitely, I get 2 weeks of working with it 8+ hours a day (of course, a lot of typing, RGB off and polling time 100ms)
for non-gaming tasks, go with 100ms pollling no RGB profile. For gaming, crank it up to 1000ms + RGB @ 20%, still i can get at least a week out of it
After working on a bunch of mice, for PTFE skates, I found that a pair of fine tweezers (think tweezers for model kits/vaping) work well for peeling the skates off with almost zero deformation.
yep you can use this method also.
What switches are the side buttons? Curious how many clicks they are rated for
They are Dare U red dot but I’m not sure on the lifespan
Can you at least make a video on the 8k and try to make a video improving the side buttons by changing to better switches and fixing pretravel?
I assume you bought this recently, are they v1 or v2 switches in there? Thanks!
Yep it’s about two weeks old so I’m assuming v2 but haven’t checked
@@Beardedbob It's V2s. V1's have black cover/shell.
@@Beardedbob I'd love to know the answer to this, I might replace mine with a newer copy. I have the 8khz and the switches are a massive improvement.
i love this mouse so much i ended up buying 6 of them because i hate having to change mice... and by the time my mouse usually breaks they are no longer making them. the problem is now i just realize that batteries may not work if stored to long? how do i make sure that the mice batteries are functional when i may need them in the future? i hope to get at least 2 years of life per mouse at least, that gives me 12 years of use, but most likely 5+ years in the batteries in the unusued mice will decay and become unusable? or will it work if i charge them once a year?
リチウムイオンバッテリーなので10年は厳しいかもしれません。iPhone3gなどが該当しますが、数多くのiPhoneがバッテリーの膨張、劣化などで使えなくなってます。これはマウスにも同じです。ただバッテリー交換やリペアが可能な場合クリック部分のスイッチなど単純な構造な部分は従来通り使える可能性は高いです。なので製造停止される前にストック2.3個ストックしとくのはありかも知れません。
what is the diameter of these bolts 9:12?
what mousefeet would u recommend for g pro x superlight, artisan zero soft and for tactical games like csgo and valorant?
I’d go corepads because they are quite consistent in my experience.
Tiger ICE atm .. heres my data on glide speed and friction as well as my thoughts th-cam.com/video/NfGV6QXCzKQ/w-d-xo.html
Don't do it atm :-p they have some thickness issues both V1 and V2.. see these videos
V1 - th-cam.com/video/G2V4KwgoSes/w-d-xo.html
V2 - th-cam.com/video/iMS7xOm5-tw/w-d-xo.html
i don't know why but i don't like sound of switches and i can't change them i want to use ttc gold dust proof
What if we filled the mouse with Helium Gas
Also, can we try using super-capacitors instead of battery.
It’s possible, just have to keep it away from a naked flame 🔥
@@Beardedbob 😂😂😂 sir, Helium is an inert gas, it doesn't ignite.
It would be very difficult to seal the mouse properly in order to avoid gas leakage (and would make a mouse even heavier than before).
@@Ded111 just seal the mouse whith seram wrap from the outside
Thanks for this. I got a question. From the looks of it, the middle mouse button seems to use a mechanical switch opposed to optical switches for the other buttons. Do you think this is the case? I currently have an issue with mine where it doesn't register properly. I either have to press it multiple times or do hard presses which is frustrating. Was wondering if I could fix this.
Yep it is the case. I measure the size in the video so you can get that info and replace it. just two pins to desolder and solder.
Hi bob! Is it possible to change the switches to maybe like a Kailh GM switch on this mouse?
You can but it takes some work to alter the pcb for it to be able to take the mechanical over opitcal... the mod is advanced also
I got mine down to under 61.5 with a 3d printed base plus removal of left side buttons and the rgb defuser removed, now I notice no feel difference between my 58gramwired and it
is that the same base from TJ exclusives? just ordered a base on amazon. how has it held up?
@@jamesb5705 the whole shell is fine but I would be careful as if you push on it or flex it it could break , my only concern
Im wondering that can i just take the optical switch out and put kailh gm 4.0 into the pcb, can it work like hotswapable keyboard or we just only take out the optical switch and put the new optical switch into the pcb, sir?
Razer is using a bespoke opto mechanical switch and pcb combo on these vipers so you can't use a Kailh :-(
@@Beardedbob im just recently changing from viper ultimate to da v2 pro but now i think i have to considering to quit razer and get another wireless mouse then :(, anw thank you so much for helping me out sir, have a nice day!
Hi, is the Razer Viper Mini Top Shell Rear panel compatible with the Razer Viper Ultimate?
No
I want bigger battery in it. Anybody know which battery I could use?
Hi, is there anything to do to fix the viper 8khz right click button which is loose and shaking. If i manage to tear down, can i do something? Left click is ok. But right one really makes me irritated :(
you can on this version open it and check how tight the screw is or seeing if you can see why its wobbling.. this will invalidate the warranty so I would RMA it.
Can u take the charger base apart please?
Will take a look
Hi Sir!...Viper Ultimate and Deathadder v2 pro working without battery(removed)?....only with cable!
Not sure a few people have asked so maybe I’ll see.
@@Beardedbob thank you i will wait for your check!
I tried this and it doesn't work. But also charging the battery doesn't work too so maybe something wrong with the charging port on my end (mine is a deathadder v2 pro)
Super helpful video. My Viper Ultimate's scroll wheel is failing hard and I was hoping I could replace it.
Glad it helped 👍
Any luck finding a replacement? my scroll wheel also started failing 3 months in.
Any luck? Hoping even just cleaning the wheel area with compressed air will fix the random UP/DOWN scrolling -_-
@@Beliefacy You have to replace the encoder, which unfortunately requires soldering. The replacement part was the Kailh 11mm encoder but I never got to test it because desoldering the old one was so difficult, I ended up screwing the whole mouse up.
Side note - I replaced it with a much cheaper Viper Mini and the encoder died after 6 months. Then I replaced that with an even cheaper MM710 and the encoder died after 3 months. I swear this was never an issue until they fixed the double click problem by introducing optical switches. Gotta get that planned obsolescence from somewhere I guess.
@@tucci06 My new viper ultimate is already here... Maybe I should've bought a viper V2? Who knows... I'll try to clean the old one with compressed air; if not it'll be a back up mouse IG...
Man I just need to open mine to clean the dust of the middle mouse button, it doesn't register clicks most of the time.
Is there a fix to that without having to open the whole mouse?
new switch needed i reckon. you need to open it or RMA it.
@@Beardedbob thanks for the response. Unfortunately I'm stuck in a country with no Razer support and I'm out of warranty. Rip my mouse
Can I send you my Viper 8Khz for a weight reduction mod? Would pay commission.
Sure, easier to talk on the shop abs chat app. shop.beardedbob.com
Worth checking these viper weight reductions to decide what you want done.
Stock look th-cam.com/video/gCX7nABqD9A/w-d-xo.html
Extreme/most weight removed th-cam.com/video/JHJy8H2H1i0/w-d-xo.html
Looking for the chat app, I'll sign up.
Wondering about my 8khz transplanted into weight reduced stock mini w Ice feet, that'd be my endgame for my Otsu.
What is the specs of the replacement battery?
LP702427 i couldnt find it. Apparently the sony xm4 have a much more popular LP702428 battery. I am worried about the connector though they look different
Hello! I have viper ultimate, but also I do have annoying rattling right side button(mouse4 on the right side). Is it possible to fix it or should I just replace it?
Thanks in advance!
Could just be a pcb moving
@@Beardedbob Is it fixable or is just defective copy?
my lmb optical switch is stuck so i cant click anything. is there a way to get it unstuck or something?
maybe lube
Is razer viper ultimate pcb fit for razer mini shell?
Haven't checked but if it did I would expect razer to have made a mini ultimate
where do I get a replacement for that spring ? I lost one
at 11:36
you can't... you need a donor mouse
@@Beardedbob oh dang, I ended up finding it eventually but that was pure luck :) Won't they be able to give the name of that spring if one is contacting them ?
where do you put the sprig at to put it back together?@@heeku_
Bro Hi, Can You speak Scroll model type? Size? Sanks
For the RVU? All the measurements you need are in the video bother 👍
Nice video ♥
Lost one of the springs so I guess I’ll have a Mod now lol
lol....the spring are a nightmare hhaa
Is it possible to replace to side grips?
There are not replacements but you could add some grip tape like this th-cam.com/video/MMTE1_sJTJU/w-d-xo.html
@@Beardedbob Are they thick because I'm scared my hands would not like the added thickness to the sides. If so can I just remove the original grips and replace them with the lizards skins.
At what SN do the switches change
No sure but will try to find out.
I have a question would it be possible to use the razer viper ultimate switches and put them into a GPW?
No they aren’t compatible 😔
@@Beardedbob that's so sad
Great job!
Thank you! Cheers!
First! but i don't know what to say... Wait, what's similar between an actor and a lawyer? They're both professionally lying!
Nice job you didn't break it.... outstanding work Bob now I can butcher mine :-).. something like that would be fine
@@Beardedbob Ok, thanks!
Does this mean...... MODDED VIPER ULTIMATES ARE COMING?!?!?!?!
Sure does... get your seatbelt on as it’s going to be a ride...
5:58 You sure it's not "Kailh"? Wtf is "Kalif"????
It’s kale 😜 I flip between lol
Nice
Thanks glad you liked it
Can you sell me a battery?
Kailh - Pronounced 'Kale'
Sure is
$100 for standard components.
for a wireless mouse at this level its a decent price tbh
You like or not you pay for the wireless technology, right now Razer and Logitech have the best on the market
@@lostboy2637 What about Glorious PC Master Race?
@@lostboy2637 "pay for the wireless technology" ? Wtf?
The Logitech Metaphor - the first wireless mouse in 1984. 37 years ago... DPI 20k standard, 2.4 GHz RF protocol is the same in other low price wireless mouse, the switch under the button is the same as in every mouse , etc. etc. Maximum price $50-$80.
@@kernelirq9246 Are you drunk? "switch under the button is the same" - they are optical switches, you can literally see that they are not soldered, and at the moment you can count all mice that have optical switches by the fingers on your hands.
Regarding wireless, have you ever wondered why until recent couple of years wireless wasn't even considered as an option for top gaming mice and for a good reason.
you realize that putting that 1:39 on there doesn't do anything right? it's only good on a cotton pad to get rid of glue residue not. The only thing the liquid does this way or can do on many plastic mice is leave a wet mark because it dissolves the coating/and or plastic to a degree (especially on razers PBT). It really does not even get all the way under the feets to make it easier to get them off. You also have problems reusing them again because the glue gets disolved as well to a degree. But then.. you are also even using this FAT ass flat screw driver like thing like a Pepega to try to go under the skates... which.. just completely ruins them?! I cringe every time when I see you doing this bob sorry. Just get a cutting knife and go as flat as possible under them and pull upwards, this way they stay factory flat. don't ever pull and roll/curl them like a pepega. And you also don't even need heat for that, 1s hairdryer makes the outcome maybe more like factory new skates but is not needed as well. And no glue residue either with or without heat. CUTTING KNIFE! PLEASE!
edit: holy shit you even used the liquid on the sensor ring... I would literally never let you touch my mice to open them.
lol, zero issues on a lot of mice, maybe you are just unlucky 😝
hi
Well hello