Upgrade Your 12V Cummins Factory Lift Pump: Unleash Your Engine's Full Potential
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Here is a video on how to upgrade your lift pump for your p-7100 12v Cummins engines. This mod can be done cheap. I have made over 550hp at the wheels with this mod so I know it works.
Need a lift pump spring ?
Rob shared 94-98 lift pump hotrod lift pump spring with you cutteruprob.co...
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Thanks Rob! I'm from Diamond Valley and I have a 12v cummins I'm bringing your way for machine work soon!
@@tireroastersgarage right on we can help you out no problem
I got an eBay DCEC pump that is 28mm. The inside of the cup measured 0.947” so I’m going to order the Comp Cams 975-1 spring, which has a similar spring rate and height to the one you recommend, but I’ll only need to bore out the cup a few thousandths to fit the spring.
There’s also the 974-1 spring which would drop in the 28mm pump, but doesn’t have as high of a spring rate.
I appreciate this video, because I had my eye on the PDP hot rod pump for $410, but this is significantly more affordable and still get the 500hp I want.
That will have no problem doing that. I have my one truck in the dyno right now it’s makes 550 ish with them same pump
One more item to add to my 12 valve build! Thanks for the tip!
Right on!
@@CUTTERUPROB Just to clarify... I can do the lift pump mod and the relief valve mod all on stock setup as far as engine goes. I have an upgraded trans from jasper TC lock up switch and TPS delete. Are there any HAVE to do mods for this to not cause problems with stock engine? I plan to do more and more mods. But little by little. Haha
@@CUTTERUPROBquestion I’ve turned my pump up on my 12valve it was running fine randomly truck starts running rough hard starts trucks been stalling out going down the road anyway you could help
Rob, Rob I shout!
We need a genius to design, and modify a kit to install the old 855 injection pump on our engines !
They are cheap, and simple.
The problem is as you know- they are cam-operated.
Hey! We have a cam.
How can we do this?
The 855 engines work flawlessly with this setup.
We need this!
You would be selling these by the millions!
Thanx!
Something to look into
What a simple clean operation this would be with perhaps just studs installed in the head for another set of rockers and a differnt camshaft ...and a couple other problems ..LOL do you have a Big Cam head shrinker?
I bought 2-8x1.25mmx2”studs and nuts to replace oem bolts for mounting new pump…much easier to slide new pump onto studs than holding pump with one hand and getting bolts started straight with other.
yep it is easy way to help
Hi Rob, thank you so much for all your help through this channel. I purchased an 04 f250 with a p pump 12v swap 5 yrs ago. I have put 180k miles on it and believe the fass fuel pump may be getting weak. My question is.. does this mod add any additional wear to the cam with the comp spring over long term? Thanks again!
Great information for everyone, thank you !!
If I upgrade my fuel pump spring will I see any difference with an all stock pump and engine ?
Would you do this on a stock truck with the fuel plate and afc cover moved towards the front bumper? Just trying to achieve 350hp. I will be upgrading the clutch to a 350 to 450 hp clutch.
if you just run a big bore pump with a normal spring is lots for that
Great video, thanks for the pro tip!!!!
You bet!
Hey Rob, do you have the part# to the after-market pump with the 30 mill piston
I'm needing to change my factory lift pump. with another mechanical lift pump with you upgrades. the prices are all over the place $37.00 to $400.00. links to the one I should get would be greatly appreciated
So I bought a cheapy off Amazon the od of the plunger is 30mm.
The I was 22mm.
I bored it out in a lathe to 1" as far back Ias I could .5 back.
It's hard to push the plunger but can push it all the way in . Pressing the pump down onto a table. Do you think it will be ok.
I have done it with out issue.
Last question before I take the plunge. No pun intended. Before I put in the Comp-Cams 973-1 .970" ID from Amazon into my new DCEC lift pump, I pushed in the rod by hand to check spring tension. It was manageable. After the mod, it is much more difficult to press the rod in by hand. With this much more extra stiffness/ tension, is there any chance the cam lobe will be galled or damaged from the excess force now required for the pump rod to articulate? Thanks again!
I have never had a issue and I have been running them for years
How about prematurely failing from increased pressures?
Will this mod have a negative effect on the p7100 pump and can you buy a 30mm plunger? I heard it may damage the actual injection pump.
Thanks
This with not hurt the pump , running them low in fuel pressure will hurt them long before high pressure
Any more info on the spacer, as in thickness, material, or when it’s required?
Thanks 🙏
If doing it on truck jog engine so pump is off the cam lobe to eliminate fighting spring pressure on reassembly…also is that relief hole important?
you will still fight it even when your off the top of the lobe, but your right when it on the high spot it is harder, and on the relief hole its not.
@@CUTTERUPROB I heard that if there’s no relief hole that fuel could get into the crankcase if the seal fails instead of the fuel exiting out the relief hole…what’s your opinion on that?
Thanks for this video.can speak pershan in langoiag program becaus i am afew english understand good naight
Hello from Sacramento CA . 1997 2500 4x4 cummins 12v 47re transmission right now low performance can't run truck above 2200 RPM. My TV cable has exssive play. Adjusted foot pedal play and connect rod.
there is a is about 20 things it could be , but fuel pressure be good place to start
Lower boot between turbo and intake manifold leak was the culprit along with tv cable out of adjustment. Shifts at 2200rpm on full throttle and 1800 on 1/4 throttle now
@@CUTTERUPROB where u sale them at I’m tryna buy one
Thank for the video! I’m looking to do this too my truck, is there any way to tell what size plunger my pump has thank you!
not with out pulling it a apart
I ordered an oem lift pump off eBay and was unlucky and got a 26mm plunger. I went ahead and put the 973-1 spring into it anyways and it was extremely hard to get the fitting back on but having a bench vise helped. Tighten it down all the way.
Now I’m afraid that it will have too high of fuel pressure. Any experience with this situation?
4:28 Hey man not sure if you will see this but if you do I gotta question and would love to hear your answer. i’m overhauling my fuel system right now and upgrading everything to -8an lines and fittings. i’m also getting rid of my preheater because i’m going with a more efficient heating setup with a screening element closer to the tank. because i’m running -8/ 1/2” stuff i was wondering how I can make that work with the lift pump. i’m not sure if this is correct but from my understanding the lift pumps inlet thread size is 1/2” npt and the outlet is m14x1.5. do you know if there is a different outlet fitting that will thread into the pump body that will give me a 1/2” npt outlet thread size? i’m honestly not sure wth those fittings on the pump are even called let alone what thread size they are, i just simply cannot find any info about them to save my life. If you have any ideas i’d love to hear them!
When I did my truck, I used the Push-lok fittings and 1/2” hoses. It was a while ago, but I know some people have kits, but you can do what I did and just find fittings with the right thread pitch.
On my future build I’m planning to use hardlines as much as possible, though, so I’ll have to figure that out.
I will do a quick video on the subject and see about posting it tomorrow or Thursday for ya. Get info for guys
@@joshua.merrill For the first 2 phases of my build i am running -8 steel braided lines for most of everything. I want to try my hand at modding and maxing out the stock lift pump myself but after I run that for a bit i’ll be switching to a fleece power flow pump. for both setups i’ll have the steel braided lines connected to the feed and return at the tank. the feed i’ll have ran directly to the inlet of the lift pump but on the outlet i will be using a an adapter fitting that will connect to a tube nut and i’ll make a custom 1/2” hardline the goes up to the filter housing with I will also be modifying the inlet and outlets by drilling them out and tapping them with a larger thread size to run larger banjo bolts with -8 banjo fittings that will connect to tube nuts for 1/2” hardlines. the outlet of the filter housing will have a double stack banjo bolt so i can run a hardline to the factory IP inlet but also to the front port so i can have a dual feed setup. i’ll also be getting rid of the fuel heater and putting in a longer stud in the filter housing so i can have a sandwich type fuel heater like the GDP kits. once I put the fleece in tho i’ll run a actual GDP kit in the frame and fab up a custom mount that will replace the stock filter housing and still allow me to keep the same plumbing.
@@CUTTERUPROB Thank you I’ll keep my eyes out. i’ve been binge watching your videos for a couple weeks now lol.
What other mods to get to 550?
What's a good replacement mechanical pump? I've heard that people are having issues with supposed oem pumps.
hard to answer that no a days , last one i bought on ebay
Hey rob power driven diesel has a factory style lift pump that can support up to 750hp what do you think they do to theres?
with a 215hp pump i am sure you could make 750. I just found it hard to keep the pressure up above 500hp myself
Where you said the relief is in the pump, mine doesn't have a hole there. Does that mean I don't have the relief? So I don't need to block it or anything?
yep you bet
I have a 12 valve with ppump in an 08 f250. Just had it in the transmission shop... up on the lift, it ran through the gears just fine. But, once lowered to the pavement and under normal driving load, it spit and stuttered under acceleration... starving for fuel. The ppump has been upped just a bit, timing is at 18°, injectirs are 5x17, the mechanical lift pump has been "hot-rod modified". My shade tree guy says i need to also install the original ford electric lift pump.
Why? Did the '97 5.9 require two lift pumps? Im now lost and confused. Why is the hotrod mechanical lift pump not supplying enough fuel? (If thats actually the problem).
Anybody?
Sounds like timing. Which isn’t just the easy. Can be the dvs size depending on the ppump you have , timing , lift pump pressure
@@CUTTERUPROB thank you for responding, and so quickly! Forgive my ignorance, but it runs and revs up super smooth without being under a load... wouldn't a timing issue show itself without a load? I mean, the entire motor has been gone through twice, the ppump has been rebuilt, injectors have been cleaned and inspected, new head, all bearings, timing was fixed after installing the upgraded (timing gear I think?), the motor is supposedly in ship shape... I wish I had more understanding. It's kinda sad, lol, It's been almost 4 years since I blew the 6.4 and started the Cummins swap-- I've not driven this truck since then. I'm over $35K deep in it, and it's always effin something. Jeezuuuuus! I thought a 12 valve swap was supposed to be the simple path....
Humor me for a moment... is there any reason (other than timing) that my upgraded mechanical lift pump would need another pump to feed it? Is it just too far away from the tank? If the problem has anything to do with timing, I might consider setting fire to this money pit. I just don't understand why the mechanical lift pump might need help. I digress. I'm lost.
@@LemmyKutcherGrassany updates I have a 99 f250 with a 97 12 valve after injectors last year (was told old ones were offset) it shakes a bit and seems to not like low rpm take offs only when cold then it would be fine now it seems to be at all slow take offs it is winter and I did add anti gel and I’m currently not amused at my car and truck both money pits are hurting rn but this is my first year adding anti freeze and last year I noticed that lag after injectors
Same problem here. My 08 has a 12 valve in it and I’m having the same issue you are. Ever figure it out?
So recently I was told I'm either getting air in the line or I have a blockage. It's at a new shop here in town, I reckon I'll know for sure in a few weeks. I'll post an update once it's all better.
So that spring doesn’t work for VE Pump?
It does not
@@CUTTERUPROB what spring can I use so I can install this pump in my 1st gen?
You said to plug the relief valve in the lift pump, how do I know if mine has one and how would I block it if so.
I have a 92 Damon motorhome with the 12 valve 5.9 p pump cummins. looks identical to the one in my 97 dodge ram. I was changing the lift pump on it and noticed it did not have a heater or a spacer behind it ??? should I put one on with the new pump. The new lift pump is the same one you have in this video. I measured both of them and the rod is the same length. Would it affect anything if I add the spacer since it was running with out one. Been that way since I have owned it. Confused in Texas.
The industrial ones are different. If you replacing it just make sure that you get the right one in it. If you use a pick style one you need the spacer
Thanks for the video. I have a new DCEC left pump with the weep hole. Is that the same thing as the pressure relief you mention at 6:30? Thanks!
no the weep hole is in the pump is bypass fuel, the relief is different
@@CUTTERUPROB thanks
I tried to look find the pump on your website but everything under the fuel tab for 1st gen engines is empty. Where do you suggest I order a hvlp from?
Purchased new stock lift pump with 26 mm plunger. Where can I purchased a 30 mm plunger?
best place i have found is on ebay
My old lift pump appears to be making a tapping noise due to the spring getting weak. When I replace it I may try this. I have no idea what the horsepower of the truck is. Also looking to remove the fuel heater unit that I removed the heater element from a couple yrs ago and put in the Larry B's delete kit. What was the spring part #? Thanks
Pn is in the description of the video I don’t know it off the top of my head.
@@CUTTERUPROB Thanks
Sorry, I meant to ask, does the added pressure on the plunger with the upgraded spring may be a concern for wear on the pump or cam lobe. I have been told by some that the tapping from the current old pump may cause damage to the cam lobe, others say no.
Will a orielys electric diesel pump off the shelf work
the pressure and volume is to low from any auto parts store one i have seen.
Ok so I have a 97 12v p-pump and I have already dump a lot into it but I have about 30psi at cold idle and about 20psi at warm idle could I do this to my truck to keep my p-pump healthy
yes you sure can. i would also do a overflow valve mods as well or replace it
These wheel hp numbers mentioned or crank numbers ?
wheel
How do I plug the release valve if I have one on my pump?
You have to drill it and plug it. Now days I just put a new pump without the relief in it
Is it normal for the comp spring to be longer? I bought this comp cam spring for my pump. I couldn’t get it in because it was 3/8 of an inch longer than the stock one and I couldn’t push in far enough to get the fitting nut started.
if the pump is on the engine make sure you have the pump cam lobe at it lowest point , i just recommend have the pump on the bench then you can use both hands
Thank you for the speedy response 👍
Do you have a part number for the 30mm pump? Or at lest a part # for a good one at a good price. I also hear that some don't come with the weep hole and when the pump leaks it can leak Diesel into the crankcase. Not good !
I have only seen pumps with a the weep hole on the outside. On the bigger pump I going to have to look into the last couple I have got we’re do some looking
@@CUTTERUPROB People have said that with out the weep hole that when the push rod seal and or the piston seal goes bad. The fuel has no choice but to leak into the crankcase.
Your just thinking out yout oil which does effect the ability for the oil to remain on spinning parts and will find slow leaks and make it leak faster. But at what rate? If you notice your oil rising on your dipstick not good. But not the end of the world. I would think you would have other issues like the loss of power, and quite a few other things before an issue with thinner than normal oil. Of course if it is summer and you live in Arizona more of an issue than Colorado in winter.
So no enlargement of the check value intake port?
Is there a trick to getting the fitting threads started?
I am a 300 pound guy so I find it easy. But a vise and a racket makes it easier
Soo will this work with my factory style pump? Few days ago mine started to make annoying ticking noises....its not a massively tunned 12v I got the AFC tunned and a cut 0 plate...stock injectors and stock gov springs for now
Yes it will
@@CUTTERUPROB so another odd question...last year my 12v was stock...no adjustments done to the AFC. Started easy as can be in the cold...never even had to touch the throttle for a chilly cold start even in the mid teens...well over this past summer I did a few adjustments...moved the star wheel ahead all the way...0 fuel plate with the AFC slid forward all the way and backed out the pre boost fuel screw a bit...now this morning it was 19f out...had to push the throttle a decent amount and when it did start it was rough and had to like clear its throat out sor to speak and then was fine....been noticing its been getting rougher to start since its been getting colder...any ideas? Would tunning it for more power cause harder cold starts?
I would definitely try giving it more pre-boost fuel than less, you could be starving the engine.
Does this lift pump 98 12 valve have any 12 volt pump??
No 12v from factory have a electric lift pump that I have even seen
i've used one of the cheapo pump like the ones in the video.they work but they are some pretty crappy pumps..those gold colored fittings are actually cheap cast steel,that will crack very easily,i have run many pumps on my 12 valves over the years,since 1996..and the best one to date is the DECC OEm Cummins one made in China of all places,i searched high and low to find a Carter OEM Cummins one,and trust me,Carter is NOT what it used to be,,it was by far the most garbage pump i ever used,and it only had a 26mm piston.and complete garbage for machining,and lasted 3 months,i've even used really cheap one,,$25.00 Amazon pump,and they were better built than carters.about the only thing that goes in these pumps is always the check valves,i've bought a cheap pump to steal the check valves out of to rebuild an old carter pump from when they were good,and it's been on a truck for 5 years now,if only we could source those check valves,
i have used the decc pumps with good results, i think it a hit or miss on alot, thus carter pump is 6-7 years old ( nos) i bought 200 of then years ago, but i only have two left so i am going to be buying some decc ones next
@@CUTTERUPROB DECC ones on Ebay $55.00 US each,free shipping within the US,i get mine shipped near me in Ottawa at the NY border and go get them,they have the cheapest price i have found,
I think one of the popular modifications to perform on these pumps is to shove a bolt through the relieve valve tunnel to block it off to eliminate that issue. And my understanding is that many newer pumps come without them so there is no need to do address it.
What is the i.d. of your plunger ? My 973-1 sprung does not fit inside my plunger
Mine measures .883
It’s a small pump. Only way would be to buy the big pump
The o.d.is 30mm
@@CUTTERUPROB do you by chance have a link to a pump that you know will work? or where do i get one?
Could this be used on as semi
Depends on the pump. But if it a the same style of pump and the injection want my pressure then you could
are to talking about a stock engine that you are doing that to
can be yes
Is this basically a diy power driven diesel hot lift pump?
i have never had a pdd power but this is the way guys have done it for 20years
Where do you get those 30mm style pumps. I have looked up a lot of “high flow” pumps but none of them say the plunger size and I don’t want to drop a couple hundred on another 26mm pump.
its a hit or miss thing i have got all different sized one from the same supplier with same part number.
Dang. Well thanks for the reply maybe I’ll get lucky when I buy another one.
So what pump is that one?
@@8tyeightify honestly i did measure it, it was just for the video i put the stock spring back in it.
@@CUTTERUPROB sorry i meant what brand is it.
Will the heavier spring create premature cam lobe wear?
i have never had any issue
6:24 so what was the psi with the stock pump and comp spring?
depends on the pump. but most of the time it ads around 20-25psi
Adds 20 to the stock 20ish for a total of 40??
@@bfmco7 yep