Thanks. As always, pads can be different for a variety of reasons. I think some of these have larger 352mm rotors instead of the 325mm, but the process will remain the same. It's important to cross reference your own application to make sure you have the right parts.
So I have to replace the brakes and rotors on my gf ford explorer. I just wanted to check and make sure it was a standard replacement job. Being from Minnesota I wasn't prepared how upset this video was going to make me watching you tap that rotor off with a gentle little tappy tap.
Ha, yeah we don't have salt or anything on our roads. It's a standard job, but it might be a little more difficult. You can usually rent a puller at the local auto parts. I've also used the catalyzed penetrating lubricant with good success. You just have to be sure to clean everything really well with brake cleaner when you put it back together. Good luck!
Thank you for showing that that star screw had to be removed prior to removing the caliper. I was smashing the heck out of my caliper by watching other people's videos that didn't even cover this, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong... All the while, prior to watching any of these videos I was staring at that screw wondering if that needed to be removed prior to!
Informative, thanks. I'm about to do mine and it's my first time on my current vehicle, same year police interceptor, only difference I believe is it's a slightly larger rotor/pad.
Hello and thanks for the great video. I have exactly the same 2016 Ford explorer sport as yours. I also received some pads (Wagner OEX 1611B) without the clip you mentioned. I was wondering if you have noticed any difference without the clip. Maybe some brake pads are of higher quality and do not need that clip? Please let me know what has been your experience without the clip. Thank you.
They do make a difference I ordered some z28 ceramic pads with those metal holders they have your brakes when they brake they will have a small delay when the oems type when you break they will return back quick I felt the difference.
So you don’t need the brake piston tool to change the front brakes out? I know i needed to rent that tool from autozone to change out the back brakes. A c-clamp wouldn’t work for me in the rear
Locktite and drill for the screw? I hope you live in CA or TX because if you live in MA for example next time you changing you rotors you might as well buy a wheel hub
@@RoadandReel I ended up stripping the brake caliper bolt. forgot that it was the other way to loosen. lol got pissed off and put tire back on. Problem for another day. Whatever. Haha Thanks for the reply
@@RoadandReel the head…was turning the wrong way . Haha As my 16 year old looks at me like I’m stupid. I’ll try a vice grips tomorrow. Thanks again for the video
The rear calipers on these need the tool, but not the front. It's usually available to rent at most auto parts stores. I believe the Escape, C-max, Edge, Focus, Flex, and Fusion all need the caliper compression tool. There may be others as well.
@@RoadandReel no way man, it’s diversified. It awesome, and it lets you put out content when you can’t get away for a day in the back country. Keep it coming.
@@The-Sound-Explorer Thanks! I should have a fly fishing video out this week that shows the trip where I snapped my rod. It's been tough with all the forest closures and all this stupid heat.
I've noticed with this car that the rotors need to be turned with every brake change. Depending on wear, you can turn them 2-3 times before they get too thin. The tire shop or wherever you get them turned will be able to measure them and give you an estimate.
@@RoadandReel 275ft/lbs sounds pretty high. I would say that might be a call out in newton meters. Im thinking about 75ft/lbs. range would be plenty. Lugbolts are usually 90-100ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
@@jasonm1974 If you do new pads with the rotors they will need compressed to fit the new pad due to it being adjusted to the wear on the old pad. So the rear compress just like any other caliper with c clamp but the front has a special spin compress caliper that takes a special tool I bought off amazon.
My goodness he used locktite on a unnecessary screw. Next time you will be drilling that screw out. That screw is only there for the original production of the car
Yeah, you're right. Those are just for production purposes, but removable thread locker won't be a problem to remove and it gives the same security that what was already there from Ford. Thanks for the comment!
How the hell do you know what size rotor you need? There’s 3 different sizes and when you call the parts at Ford with the vin they can only give you the weight. How idiotic
That's bizarre! They should tell you the genuine Ford part number when you call. Your only other option is to take a measurement from outside edge across the center to the opposite outside edge. If possible, you could remove the rotor and take it down there with you to match it up, but I've never had a dealer not be able to tell me the part number. If you can get the part number, then you can use that to reference and source the rotors.
Is the rotor rusted or the brake pads seized? You don't really need to spin the rotor to get it off. Just remove the bolts holding the brake caliper on and the screws on the rotor. If the rotor is stuck, try hitting it with a rubber mallet or piece of wood going back and forth on each side. That should start to move it.
My brother if u have a sport model pads are different
Thanks. As always, pads can be different for a variety of reasons. I think some of these have larger 352mm rotors instead of the 325mm, but the process will remain the same. It's important to cross reference your own application to make sure you have the right parts.
So I have to replace the brakes and rotors on my gf ford explorer. I just wanted to check and make sure it was a standard replacement job. Being from Minnesota I wasn't prepared how upset this video was going to make me watching you tap that rotor off with a gentle little tappy tap.
Ha, yeah we don't have salt or anything on our roads. It's a standard job, but it might be a little more difficult. You can usually rent a puller at the local auto parts. I've also used the catalyzed penetrating lubricant with good success. You just have to be sure to clean everything really well with brake cleaner when you put it back together. Good luck!
Great video! I’m about to do mine right now, and you gave me a couple of tips that I can use. Thank you!
No problem, good luck!
Thank you for showing that that star screw had to be removed prior to removing the caliper. I was smashing the heck out of my caliper by watching other people's videos that didn't even cover this, wondering what the heck I was doing wrong... All the while, prior to watching any of these videos I was staring at that screw wondering if that needed to be removed prior to!
So glad to hear that this video helped you!
Informative, thanks. I'm about to do mine and it's my first time on my current vehicle, same year police interceptor, only difference I believe is it's a slightly larger rotor/pad.
Yeah, the process should be the same.
Tremendous video man. Quick clear and to the point!
Thanks!
Hello and thanks for the great video. I have exactly the same 2016 Ford explorer sport as yours. I also received some pads (Wagner OEX 1611B) without the clip you mentioned. I was wondering if you have noticed any difference without the clip. Maybe some brake pads are of higher quality and do not need that clip? Please let me know what has been your experience without the clip. Thank you.
No difference whatsoever. No squeaks or squeals and everything is wearing evenly.
@@RoadandReel Good to know. Thank you for the reply.
They do make a difference I ordered some z28 ceramic pads with those metal holders they have your brakes when they brake they will have a small delay when the oems type when you break they will return back quick I felt the difference.
Good to know, thanks!
@@RoadandReel yes sir 1 month of using them honestly super smooth and quick break 👌
Thank you buddy for this amazing video ,i just save $400 from Miami mechanic hahahah , thank you ..
I'm glad I was able to help!
Did it ever make a difference for the brake pads just curious
Never made a difference and they're still going. No squeaks or vibrations and everything is wearing even.
So you don’t need the brake piston tool to change the front brakes out? I know i needed to rent that tool from autozone to change out the back brakes. A c-clamp wouldn’t work for me in the rear
Sometimes you can get by without using the tool. I do have a caliper tool in my toolbox, but the c clamp worked just fine on the fronts.
Need to add wrench/torx bit sizes.
Was trying find out size on torx
Sorry. I want to say the Torx bit was a T40.
Locktite and drill for the screw? I hope you live in CA or TX because if you live in MA for example next time you changing you rotors you might as well buy a wheel hub
Yep, California. Only water these see comes from the carwash.
THANK YOUUUU 🔥✊
You're welcome!
Hello, so I have a police Interceptor. Is it the same as any other explorer?
The process is the same, but I believe the interceptor model has the clips on the brake pads.
Nice job and thanks
Glad to help!
The front caliper pistons don't need to be spun while being compressed?
Not on these ones they don't.
Did you bleed the lines? I didn’t notice if you did
No, I didn't loosen any line fittings so I didn't need to bleed them.
도움이 되는 영상입니다
Happy to help!
thanks just wonder what might be holding it thanks again
I'm thinking it may have some surface rust that's causing it to bind.
hello can i change the original brake discs of the ford explorer 2017 for discs with holes 5×120 i have rims with holes 5×120
Yes, they make drilled and slotted rotors for these. They sell them at most auto parts stores.
@@RoadandReel Thank you very much
Do I have to take the brake fluid cap off before I start?
Not on this one. It has an expanding cap that will collapse when you compress the caliper pistons.
@@RoadandReel I ended up stripping the brake caliper bolt. forgot that it was the other way to loosen. lol got pissed off and put tire back on. Problem for another day. Whatever. Haha
Thanks for the reply
@@lotto-goblin we've all been there. Did you strip the head or the threads?
@@RoadandReel the head…was turning the wrong way . Haha
As my 16 year old looks at me like I’m stupid. I’ll try a vice grips tomorrow.
Thanks again for the video
@@lotto-goblin no problem, good luck!
i cant turn my hubs have it in n but can only move hub 2-3 in any advice would be welcome thanks dave
What doesn't turn? It it the rotor not turning?
Don’t you use the caliper tool? Was always told the pistons half to spin back in place on the fords explorer
The rear calipers on these need the tool, but not the front. It's usually available to rent at most auto parts stores. I believe the Escape, C-max, Edge, Focus, Flex, and Fusion all need the caliper compression tool. There may be others as well.
Great video! Want that hat!!
Haha, thanks! My mother-in-law needed her brakes done. Sometimes, I wonder if my channel is too random.
@@RoadandReel no way man, it’s diversified. It awesome, and it lets you put out content when you can’t get away for a day in the back country. Keep it coming.
@@The-Sound-Explorer Thanks! I should have a fly fishing video out this week that shows the trip where I snapped my rod. It's been tough with all the forest closures and all this stupid heat.
@@RoadandReel looking forward to seeing it!
How often we need to change the disks rotors?
I've noticed with this car that the rotors need to be turned with every brake change. Depending on wear, you can turn them 2-3 times before they get too thin. The tire shop or wherever you get them turned will be able to measure them and give you an estimate.
What are the torque specs for the caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts....unsure where to look for them?
@@RoadandReel 275ft/lbs sounds pretty high. I would say that might be a call out in newton meters. Im thinking about 75ft/lbs. range would be plenty. Lugbolts are usually 90-100ft/lbs. Hope this helps.
This is what I've found:
Front Disc Brake:
Bleeder screw: 11 Nm (97 lb-in)
Brake caliper anchor plate bolts: 150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
Brake caliper flow bolt: 47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
Brake caliper guide pin bolts: 72 Nm (53 lb-ft)
Brake disc screw: 20 Nm (177 lb-in)
Brake disc shield bolts: 15 Nm (133 lb-in)
Brake flexible hose bracket bolt: 30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
Brake tube fittings: 17 Nm (150 lb-in)
Rear Disc Brake:
Bleeder screw: 10 Nm (89 lb-in)
Brake caliper anchor plate bolts: 103 Nm (76 lb-ft)
Brake caliper bolts: 33 Nm (24 lb-ft)
Brake disc screw: 20 Nm (177 lb-in)
Brake disc shield bolts: 15 Nm (133 lb-in)
Brake flexible hose: 25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
Brake tub fitting: 17 Nm (150 lb-in)
@@rickgabbard633 that was a typo, thank you! I've updated the comment.
How did you compress the caliper for the new pads?
4:52 I used a couple of C clamps and compressed it with the old pads still in before removing the caliper.
Why do you have to compress them? Want to change my rotors but haven’t attempted it yet.
@@jasonm1974 If you do new pads with the rotors they will need compressed to fit the new pad due to it being adjusted to the wear on the old pad.
So the rear compress just like any other caliper with c clamp but the front has a special spin compress caliper that takes a special tool I bought off amazon.
Wait you just mentioned a special tool for the front to compress, but I only saw you use the two c clamps in the video. Did I miss something?
When it comes to BRAKES be smart & take it to a SHOP PLEASE FOR ALL TO BE SAFE YOU & EVERY1 AROUND YOU!
Ok
My goodness he used locktite on a unnecessary screw. Next time you will be drilling that screw out. That screw is only there for the original production of the car
Yeah, you're right. Those are just for production purposes, but removable thread locker won't be a problem to remove and it gives the same security that what was already there from Ford. Thanks for the comment!
How the hell do you know what size rotor you need? There’s 3 different sizes and when you call the parts at Ford with the vin they can only give you the weight. How idiotic
That's bizarre! They should tell you the genuine Ford part number when you call. Your only other option is to take a measurement from outside edge across the center to the opposite outside edge. If possible, you could remove the rotor and take it down there with you to match it up, but I've never had a dealer not be able to tell me the part number. If you can get the part number, then you can use that to reference and source the rotors.
yes wheel wount turn but 3 in
Is the rotor rusted or the brake pads seized? You don't really need to spin the rotor to get it off. Just remove the bolts holding the brake caliper on and the screws on the rotor. If the rotor is stuck, try hitting it with a rubber mallet or piece of wood going back and forth on each side. That should start to move it.
They send you the other pads even if you order the thumb "V" pads. Kept getting the other square "C" box pads. Total joke.
Who is sending them to you?
Why did you put shitty old glazed-up pads back on ?
I didn't. Those were new pads and I had the rotors turned. Watch it again.
@@RoadandReel I watched you remove the the whole calliper and bracket and stick on a turned rotourhem put back the whole assembly
@@papabits5721 at 6:47 new pads go in.